I went ahead and did it again! Combined all of my current genre of patterns into a single collection. I find that this is a really good way to get my work out there. People seem to be more inclined to buy a collection of multiple patterns, especially when buying a paperback book, than single patterns. It makes sense. You get more value for your buck.
So in this latest collection, I’m offering seven of my dishcloth patterns. When the virus time was running its course years ago, I went on a bit of a dishcloth design rampage. That’s when I came up with a bunch of these.
This summer, I realized it was time to update some of my pattern photos. They were looking a bit dated and now that AI has made taking good photos easier than ever before, it seemed like a no brainer. Like always, a quick update turned into expansions. Some of the patterns were made into other things like scarves, and smaller things like coasters or scrubbies. A few even got updated videos embedded into them. I kinda just went with it.
Don’t forget to SHARE this page ๐๐ผ
To get the collection, you can go to a number of places. These are all the where you download the PDF of the patterns and print it yourself. The Amazon links are for both the Kindle (which you can’t print) and for the paperback version. Make sure you order the paperback from your country. You’ll save on shipping and duty fees this way.
Like always, the patterns are all still free to read online. All of them are also available for sale individually through all my retailers like Etsy, Ravelry, Amazon, and this website. The titles listed below are also clickable links that will take you to the FREE versions here online.
The pattern is 54 pages long and includes links to how-to videos on YouTube and many colour photos. If you are a new knitter, these patterns are a great way for you to learn how to knit!
The publication includes the following patterns (all the titles below are clickable links to read the patterns online for FREE if you don’t want/need a printable version):
This is a great project for anyone who is just learning how to knit. It’s not an overly complicated project and the yarn is easy to find and not too expensive. Best of all the final result gives you something you can use, even if it doesn’t turn out perfectly ?
If you are a new knitter, I’ve added links demonstrating how to do each of the stitches necessary for this project. I would recommend that getting the basics down first with a swatch or two, then getting into this project.
I am trying something new with this pattern. Years ago I tried to offer my patterns for free to download. I was taken advantage of at that time. People would download the patterns to never return. I can now embed scannable QR codes in my work and want to see if people come back to the website once they’ve downloaded the pattern and printed it off for themselves. We’ll see how it goes. If it turns out that people do come back and share this pattern with their followers on social media, I may do this with other patterns.
Use these ๐๐ผ to share on social media ๐ฅฐ
If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you canโt give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. Iโve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there ๐๐ผ you can share it nearly everywhere.
The Pattern
If you would like to read the pattern online, keep scrolling down the page. Otherwise, you can download this FREE knitting pattern right here. ๐ฅฐ
If you like how this pattern opens and how easy it is to download, this is exactly how the patterns available through my Member Area works. Becoming a member is like being a patron of the arts. By supporting me for a small fee every month, you help support me to create more patterns for you to use. You also get access to the patterns in the members area. You can see how many pattern there are currently available in my Current List of Member Patterns. For more information on how you can support me and become a member, click the button below.
I use a size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles but this can be done with whatever size you like. The size of you needles will determine the final size of your dishcloth. You will also need one ball (42.5 g or 1.5 oz.) of crafter 100% cotton yarn. They are available in a variety of colours just about everywhere. Look for sales or buy a big ball if you plan on making a lot of dishcloths. And don’t forget about Amazon! There’s always a great selection of 100% cotton yarn there.
The dishcloth itself is knit along the diagonal, like how TVs are measured. You can make it as big as you want, but I find 45 to 50 stitches makes for a good sized cloth. If you would like it larger, you will need to buy more balls of yarn. Make sure that your lot numbers on the balls you select are the same or else the colours may be off.
You can make variations of this basic pattern by making wider edging: Instead of K1 before the YO you can K2 or K3. You could also make the center as a stocking knit stitch (purl one row then knit the next).
Feel free to use this pattern to make your own dishcloths to sell or give away. Just don’t reprint this pattern in any form without my permission, but linking to it and sharing is always appreciated!
If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
The dishcloth obsession continues, though I am getting a bit weary of these. Time to get around to making more art pieces.
So I’m providing this in two sizes – roughly 7 inches square and 8 inches square. The smaller size seemed almost a smidgen too small but the larger one seemed a bit larger than I would like. I suppose it could have easily been fixed with changing needle sizes but I figured I’d let others deal with that. With that said, this knitting pattern is written accordingly. The larger size repeat counts are in brackets.
It’s important to note that for this specific knitting pattern, odd rows are NOT the right side of your work. The dropping and picking up stitches happens on what would be usually considered the WRONG side or all even rows. So in short, the right side of your work is all the EVEN rows.
Also, I’ve included a bunch of photos to help you along with YO, dropping stitches, slipping stitches and making the crossed over stitches. The YO, slipping and dropping stitches are standard stitches and if you’re an experienced knitter, you probably won’t need the photos. I’ve included the photos as you go along in the pattern, but if you already feel comfortable with these stitches, the pattern is also written without the photos further down the post here – the pattern without the photos.
If you would like to show your continued support of my work and this website, for only $3 you can become a Website Member. This is an easy way for you to support my work and get a bunch of other patterns you can easily print off. As of the writing there are 34 patterns I’ve added to this list. I also have a Patreon option available too, but there aren’t as many patterns over there. You can use either of the links below to check out supporting my work.
If you are loving the free patterns, please consider helping me out offsetting the hosting costs of the website. You can learn more by going to this page – Help Support My Work. If you can’t make a small donation, that’s OK ?. Instead, you can help others see my work by using the share buttons. It’s such an easy thing to do and helps me so much.
Things you will need
Click any of the links below to get everything you need to make this dishcloth.
Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle.
Stitches passed back to non-working needle.
Pick up and knit the dropped stitch.
Picking up the stitch.
Working the stitch.
Stitch knitted. Cross over complete.
K2 โฃ๏ธ Repeat from โฃ๏ธ to โฃ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. K2
Row 7: โ P4 YO P1 YO P1 โ Repeat from โ to โ 4 (5) more times. P4
Row 8: โฅ๏ธ K4, SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO โฅ๏ธ Repeat โฅ๏ธ to โฅ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. K4
Row 9: โฆ๏ธ P4 SL2 โฆ๏ธ Repeat from โฆ๏ธ to โฆ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. P4
Row 10: K2 โฒ SL2, Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle and knit this stitch. K2. Drop the next stitch. K2. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. โฒ Repeat from โฒ to โฒ 4 (5) more times. K2. โบ๏ธ
Repeat from โบ๏ธ to โบ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. (Rows 3 – 10 make up one repeat of the diamond motif).
Next row: Purl across
Next row: Cast off. Do NOT cut the yarn, unless you are making the edging a different colour.
Edging
To make things as easy as possible, I’ve embedded the (very) old video I made demonstrating how to do this technique. It’s basically a backwards single crochet (Bsc) that creates a more ropey kind of look.
You may have to play around a bit with the size of hook that’s going to work the best for you. For me, based on my tension for knitting the dishcloth and tension for how I crochet, a 3.75 mm crochet hook worked best.
Row 1: With right side facing, and in the first cast off stitch that you can easily insert your hook, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc in every 2nd cast off stitch along the top and bottom edges
Skip every other stitch.
Insert your hook like this.
Hook the yarn and pull through.
Hook the yarn again and pull through the two loops. Stitch made.
Bsc in every other row along the sides.
Insert hook in this stitch when working along the rows.
Join to the start of the row. Work in ends.
I found there is enough slack that you don’t need multiple stitches in the corner.
Pattern Without the Photos
Cast on 34 (40 sts)
Row 1: Purl across (wrong side)
Row 2: Knit across (right side)
โบ๏ธRow 3: P2 YO โฟ P5 YO P1 YO โฟ Repeat from โฟ to โฟ 3 (4) more times. P5 YO P3
Row 4: K2 SL1, Drop the YO, K4 โ SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO, K4 โ Repeat from โ to โ 3 (4) more times. SL1, Drop the YO, K2
Row 6: K2 โฃ๏ธ Drop the next stitch, K2. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle. Knit this stitch. SL2 Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. K2 โฃ๏ธ Repeat from โฃ๏ธ to โฃ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. K2
Row 7: โฅ๏ธ P4 YO P1 YO P1 โฅ๏ธ Repeat from โฅ๏ธ to โฅ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. P4
Row 8: โฆ๏ธ K4, SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO โฆ๏ธ Repeat โฆ๏ธ to โฆ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. K4
Row 9: โฆ P4 SL2 โฆ Repeat from โฆ to โฆ 4 (5) more times. P4
Row 10: K2 โฝ๏ธ SL2, Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle and knit this stitch. K2. Drop the next stitch. K2. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. โฝ๏ธ Repeat from โฝ๏ธ to โฝ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. K2. โบ๏ธ.
Repeat from โบ๏ธ to โบ๏ธ 4 (5) more times. (Rows 3 – 10 make up one repeat of the diamond motif).
Next row: Purl across
Next row: Cast off
Edging
The edging is a backwards single crochet (Bsc) that creates a more ropey kind of look.
You may have to play around a bit with the size of hook that’s going to work the best for you. For me, based on my tension for knitting the dishcloth and tension for how I crochet, a 3.75 mm crochet hook worked best.
Row 1: With right side facing, and in the first cast off stitch that you can easily insert your hook, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc in every 2nd cast off stitch along the top and bottom edges. Bsc in every other row along the sides.
Join to the start of the row. Work in ends.
I found there is enough slack that you don’t need multiple stitches in the corner.
Hints and Tips
You may have to play around a bit with the size of the crochet hook you use.
I haven’t had any problem with the dropped stitch unraveling while knitting other stitches. If you do, you can use a cable needle to hold it in place.
Try a variation in colours too! You could make each diamond repeat a different colour. What’s marked with ? to ?. And you can also make the edging a different colour like I did. It would be a great way to use up the extra bits of cotton yarn you have.
Abbreviations
Non-working needle – Left needle if you are right handed. Right needle if you are left handed)
YO – Yarn Over. When doing a YO for the purl stitch, pull your yarn to the back of your work (like you were going to knit) and purl the next stitch. The yarn will form an extra stitch on your needle.
Starting the yarn over
Pull the yarn to the back of your work
Pull your yarn forward and work the stitch. Increase made.
The yarn over (increased stitched)
K – Knit
P – Purl
SL – Slip the next stitch, without working it, onto your working needle. (Right needle if you’re right handed. Left needle if you’re left handed).
Make what you want from the squares you create. Make them smaller to use as coasters. Knit them larger to use for a washcloth. Sew them together and make an afghan. It’s really up to you how you use your squares.
The purchase of this pattern allows you to make and sell slippers, but you may not redistribute or resell this pattern.
If you have ever made one of my dishcloths in the past, it really bothers me when one side of a dishcloth doesn’t look the same way on the reverse side. To me, a dishcloth should be reversible. I know, it’s weird and really isn’t that important, but we all have these random, arbitrary rules we like to follow. Well, this one hits that same-both-side requirement! Yay! My mildly OCD brain is happy.
Want to make the scarf or the coasters instead? It’s easy peasy! Follow the pattern below shows which rows to repeat when making the scarf. And when making the coasters, only make it about 26 stitches wide instead of the 50 stitches for the dishcloth. Any even number will work for the width regardless if you’re making the scarf, dishcloth or the coasters.
As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here โ Textured Knitted Scarf, Dishcloth and Coasters Pattern. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts, Etsy and Ravelry. If the link isn’t working I haven’t upload the pattern to the site yet.
Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, youโll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my workโฆ Exclusive Member Area
Worsted weight yarn โ I always use cotton yarn for dishcloths. You can use something else if you are going to make a scarf with this pattern. The amount of yarn you’ll need depends on how long and wide you want a scarf. If making dishcloths or coasters, one standard ball will be enough.
Row 2: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across.
Row 3: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 P1 K3
Row 4: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 P1 K1 P1 K2
Row 5 – 6: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across.
โ ย Row 7: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.
Row 8: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 3 stitches P1 K2.
Row 9 โ 10: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across.ย โ ย Repeat from โ ย to โ until you have 50 stitches total.
โฅ๏ธ Next row: K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.
Next row: K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.
Next 2 rows: K across. โฅ๏ธ
If you are making a scarf, repeat fromย โฅ๏ธ to โฅ๏ธ until it’s the length you want. Ifย NOTย making a scarf, continue with the pattern as follows…
โฆ๏ธย Next row: K2tog *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.
Next row: K2tog *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 3 stitches P1 K2.
Next 2 rows: K2tog. K across.ย โฆ๏ธย Repeat from โฆ๏ธย toย โฆ๏ธ until down to 8 stitches. You will have finished the first knit across row when there are 8 stitches on your needle.
Next row: K2tog. K the next stitch. Pass the K2tog loop on your working needle over the stitch you just knitted (AKA Cast off). Continue to cast off until there are 2 stitches on your non-working needle. K2tog these 2 stitches. You now have 2 stitches on your working needle. Pass the stitch over the the K2tog loop (the loop on the right over the loop on the left, if you are right handed).
This pattern can easily be made into a scarf of any width. I used fringe on the point for my scarf but you could attach tassels if you so desire. If you want to make this into a scarf, repeat the rows in the middle marked with the ?. It’s always 4 rows for one repeat of the pattern. The scarf in the photos is 26 stitches wide.
Not a fan of the scarf but could use some coasters? This pattern could easily be made smaller following the pattern exactly as written for the dishcloth but only making the coaster 26 stitches wide.
Make this as wide or as narrow as you like. If you feel 50 stitches are too wide, or not wide enough, do what you wish. Just always end on the second row of the knitting across rows to maintain the pattern texture.
If you want a more finished edge, you can easily do a single crochet around the edge of the dishcloth. The lighter beige dishcloth has the single crocheted edge if you’d like to see an example. I found that 2 stitches at each of the corners maintained a spaced out edging that lays flat.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
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If you are a fibre artist and have a pattern you would like to share, I’d love to show case your work! Paid or free, on your own website, in your Etsy shop, on Ravelry or anywhere else, you can add your pattern. Go to – KweenBee.caThe service is free for anyone to use. I’m trying to generate a safe space for everyone to share their work that isn’t related to any of the social media sites.
If you want a quick little something to knit up for a craft fair or use up those extra bits of yarn you just can’t throw out, this pattern is for you. Make it as big or as small as you like. If done correctly, it will always turn out square.
Using very basic stitches, nearly anyone can make this. If you need the pattern, you can read it on my website here – One Piece Knitted Dishcloth and Coasters โ FREE Knitting Pattern for Beginners In all honesty, this pattern is so simple and repetitive that you may be able to watch the video for a couple minutes and get how to make it.
If you do need a printable version of the pattern, there are a number of options. You can buy the pattern from a number of places including ย LoveCrafts, myย Etsy shopย orย Ravelryย for a small fee. It is also available on Amazon Kindle and as a paperback.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
This knitting pattern is very versatile and can be made to be any size of square. For myself, I like it as a dishcloth. But when I started to knit up samples for the photos I realized that this design could transfer into any thing that can be square. Regardless of the size, because of the method of making it, it will always be square regardless of how many, or few, stitches are cast on at the outset.
And no need to worry about picking up stitches or any other difficult techniques. If you can knit and cast on and cast off, you can make this. It’s not complicated at all.
For myself, I found that 32 stitches made for the perfect size dishcloth and used a little less than one of the smaller balls of cotton yarn. I like mine to be bigger but not unmanageably so. I also found that making a coaster or mini face scrubber, took about 18 stitches. These are just approximate cast on stitch counts. I found that there is some variation in the worsted weight (medium 4) yarn thickness. You may need to add 2 or 3 more cast on stitches if it’s on the thinner side.
I’ve written the pattern to make a dishcloth so started with 32 stitches cast on. A quick tip, if you use a size smaller needle (4 mm or US 6) to cast on, then switch back to the 5 mm (US 8) the starting edge looks a bit more finished and tight.
Another plus about this pattern, I finally designed something that really highlights variegated yarn. I have a great appreciation for the colour changing yarns that are available (I do not have similar feelings towards self striping yarn, but that’s a rant for another time). I found that the variegated yarn did really well with smaller size squares, though I like the pooling of colours when making the larger sized dishcloths as well.
And to sooth my quest for sameness, these washcloths are the same on both sides!! Both sides look pretty much the same. I know in the scheme of things this matters very little, but it somehow screams โcorrectโ to me. I’m weird. I know.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
And, yes. I know this pattern becomes very obvious in how to make it once you start knitting. I wrote it out in full regardless, as some people (the few but very vocal) have a tendency to contact me if even the most obvious thing is not mentioned in my patterns. I’m trying to avoid these critical emails, just so you know.
It’s so obvious that you may be able to knit this without the pattern at all. That’s why I made the video. I’m sure some of the more experienced knitters out there will watch the first couple minutes of the video below and be like, “Ya. I got this.”
Things You Need
โจSize 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
1 3/4 oz (42g) ball of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn
Large sewing needle (for working in the ends)
Gauge isn’t really important for this project as sizing is approximate.
Abbreviations
K – Knit
st – stitch
That’s it! This is a VERY simple pattern.
The Pattern
Cast on 32 (You will always have 32 stitches on your needle when the right side is facing you)
Row 1 – 2: Knit across
Row 3: K31. Leave the last stitch unworked. Turn.
Back side of work always looks likenormal knitting when the row is completed
Row 4: K31.
Row 5: K30. Leave the last 2 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 6: K30.
Row 7: K29. Leave the last 3 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 8: K29.
Row 9: K28. Leave the last 4 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 10: K28.
Row 11: K27. Leave the last 5 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 12: K27.
Row 13: K26. Leave the last 6 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 14: K26.
Row 15: K25. Leave the last 7 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 16: K25.
Row 17: K24. Leave the last 8 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 18: K24.
Row 19: K23. Leave the last 9 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 20: K23.
Row 21: K22. Leave the last 10 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 22: K22.
Row 23: K21. Leave the last 11 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 24: K21.
Row 25: K20. Leave the last 12 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 26: K20.
Row 27: K19. Leave the last 13 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 28: K19.
Row 29: K18. Leave the last 14 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 30: K18.
Row 31: K17. Leave the last 15 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 32: K17.
Row 33: K16. Leave the last 16 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 34: K16.
Row 35: K15. Leave the last 17 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 37: K14. Leave the last 18 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 38: K14.
Row 39: K13. Leave the last 19 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 40: K13.
Row 41: K12. Leave the last 20 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 42: K12.
Row 43: K11. Leave the last 21 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 44: K11.
Row 45: K10. Leave the last 22 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 46: K10.
Row 47: K9. Leave the last 23 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 53: K6. Leave the last 26 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 48: K9.
Row 49: K8. Leave the last 24 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 50: K8.
Row 51: K7. Leave the last 25 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 52: K7.
Row 54: K6.
Row 55: K5. Leave the last 27 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 56: K5.
Row 57: K4. Leave the last 28 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 58: K4.
Row 59: K3. Leave the last 29 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 60: K3.
Row 61: K2. Leave the last 30 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 62: K2.
Row 63: K1. Leave the last 31 stitches unworked. Turn.
Halfway Point
If you would like the other half of your square to use a different colour like shown above, attach it now.
Row 64: K1.
Row 65: K2. Leave the last 30 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 66: K2.
Row 67: K3. Leave the last 29 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 68: K3.
Row 69: K4. Leave the last 28 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 70: K4.
Row 71: K5. Leave the last 27 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 72: K5.
Row 73: K6. Leave the last 26 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 74: K6.
Row 75: K7. Leave the last 25 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 76: K7.
Row 77: K8. Leave the last 24 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 78: K8.
Row 79: K9. Leave the last 23 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 80: K9.
Row 81: K10. Leave the last 22 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 82: K10.
Row 83: K11. Leave the last 21 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 84: K11.
Row 85: K12. Leave the last 20 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 86: K12.
Row 87: K13. Leave the last 19 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 88: K13.
Row 89: K14. Leave the last 18 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 90: K14.
Row 91: K15. Leave the last 17 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 92: K15.
Row 93: K16. Leave the last 16 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 94: K16.
Row 95: K17. Leave the last 15 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 96: K17.
Row 97: K18. Leave the last 14 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 98: K18.
Row 99: K19. Leave the last 13 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 100: K19.
Row 101: K20. Leave the last 12 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 102: K20.
Row 103: K21. Leave the last 11 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 104: K21.
Row 105: K22. Leave the last 10 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 106: K22.
Row 107: K23. Leave the last 9 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 108: K23.
Row 109: K24. Leave the last 8 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 110: K24.
Row 111: K25. Leave the last 7 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 112: K25.
Row 113: K26. Leave the last 6 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 114: K26.
Row 115: K27. Leave the last 5 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 116: K27.
Row 117: K28. Leave the last 4 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 118: K28.
Row 119: K29. Leave the last 3 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 120: K29.
Row 121: K30. Leave the last 2 stitches unworked. Turn.
Row 122: K30.
Row 123: K31. Leave the last stitch unworked. Turn.
Row 124: K31.
Row 125: K32.
Cast off on the WRONG side.
Hints and Tips
If you would like to make smaller squares for coasters or pot scrubbers, cast on fewer stitches. The basic idea for the pattern is to always leave one less stitch done every other row. Once you’re down to one stitch, knit one extra stitch every other row.
I know I mentioned this in the intro but it deserves repeating. If you use a size smaller needle (4 mm or US 6) to cast on, then switch back to the 5 mm (US 8) the starting edge looks a bit more finished and tight.
You don’t have to use cotton yarn if you’re going to make coasters. An acrylic or wool blend would also work well. And you can also use up some of your yarn stash this way too. Great little things to sell at a garage sale, or craft fair and recoup a little of the money already spent on the yarn.
Use these squares for anything! As long as your yarn is the same thickness and type, all acrylic let’s say, you could easily use up your last little yarn bits to make an afghan or throw blanket. I don’t quilt but I know that triangles and squares make up a good portion of quilt designs. Knitting squares that are two colours along the diagonal put together the solid coloured squares could make some very interesting patterns.
These also make good trivets or pot holders for taking things out of the oven, but only if… they are NOT wet and are made of 100% cotton. Any acrylic or polyester blend will melt to the pot and possible fingers, counter tops or tables. And ain’t nobody got time for that!!
Like all my work, you are permitted to sell, give away or keep whatever physical items you make using this pattern. You do NOT have permission to copy or redistribute this pattern (or any of my patterns) in any form either digitally or physically. That includes printed copies of the pattern either as photos or any file format.
Make what you want from the squares you create. Make them smaller to use as coasters. Knit them larger to use for a washcloth. Sew them together and make an afghan. It’s really up to you how you use your squares.
The purchase of this pattern allows you to make and sell slippers, but you may not redistribute or resell this pattern.
And don’t worry. I didn’t forget. Here’s the full step-by-step video!
All of my knitted dishcloth patterns conveniently in one place! Use them as a washcloth or even as a hot pad for handling your pots and pans. Just be sure they’re not wet before you them for this purpose.
Dishcloths are a great way to hone your knitting skills, or if you’re already the bomb at knitting, to make a quick buck, if you so inclined. If you are a beginner, knitting a dishcloth is a great way to get something that is still usable, even if it doesn’t turn out perfectly. It’ll wash your dishes all the same.
Below are the comprehensive list of all my dishcloth patterns that are free to read online. If you would like to print the pattern, you have a few options. Most are on sale as PDF’s through this website, my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts, Amazon and Ravelry.
Another option, become a member on this site. It’s not overly expensive, only $3 per month, and you can cancel at any time.
In the exclusive member area, I’ve listed all of my patterns by category and you can download them with a single click. No waiting for links through an email. Simply click the link, the pattern downloads, and depending on your computer or smart device settings, opens automatically. Easy peasy. Once you become a member, you can also read the pattern online without ads or pop-ups. Interested? Click the link below…
Do you know someone who would enjoy these knitted washcloth patterns? Be sure to share this page with the handy links below.
And now for the patterns. The list is all my current dishcloth patterns available to read for free on the website. It automatically updates as I write and post new knitted dishcloth patterns.
If you wanted to learn how to knit, this is the perfect project! Using only 3 basic stitches and including a complete step-by-step video embedded on the bottom of this page, you can make a beautiful lace like dishcloth. If you’d prefer to download the pattern so you can take it wherever you go, the download is available on this website – Dishcloth Pattern, Etsy, Ravelry and LoveCrafts. If the links aren’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to that retailer yet.
And here’s a bit more info for you. Not only can you use the pattern create a dishcloth, but if you add more rows, you can easily use the same pattern to make a scarf!
This is exactly what a newbie knitter needs to get his or her knit on! For more the seasoned knitter, this pattern doesn’t require a gauge as it’s a dishcloth and sizing isn’t important. Also, if you want to make a larger dishcloth, increase the number of initial stitches cast on and increase the number of repeated rows to make it square.
Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become aย Website Supporterย forย $3/month, youโll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my workโฆย Exclusive Member Area
To make this stitch, simply wrap the yarn twice around the knitting needle and work as any knit stitch. (Watch the how-to for this stitch at the bottom of this post.)
Row 7 – 11: Knit across.* Repeat from * to * 8 more times. There will be 9 lace rows.
Cast off
If you want to make a scarf simply repeat from * to * as many times as you like until you knit the length you want.
More of my stuff on Etsy
You can stop here if you choose to not crochet the edge. If you prefer a more finished edge for your dishcloth, single crochet evenly around the edge. Make 2 sc in each set of 5 rows, 1 sc in the lace knit row, 3 sc in each corner, and 1 sc in each knitted stitch along the cast on edge and the cast off edge.
That’s it! Like I said before, this is a very repetitive pattern that enables the newbie knitter to master a few basic stitches while still making something they can be proud of. A more experienced knitter can make these in a few hours or less and great to whip up if you want to give them as a gift, sell them online or at a local market, or even if you need a dishcloth for yourself. An let’s be honest, can you ever have too many dishcloths? Or is that just me…
A great knitting pattern for beginners. If you know how to cast on, cast off, knit 2 together, knit and purl, you can make this knitting pattern. Not a fan of dishcloths? Knit it longer to make a scarf; patches to make an afghan. It’s a very versatile pattern!
Want to learn how to knit? This knitting pattern for beginners covers all the knitting basics. It will teach everything from how to cast on, to knitting, purling, how to cast off and working in the ends when you’re done the dishcloth. This is an absolute beginner knitting pattern with a full video tutorial that you can watch right here!
Click the โถ๏ธ symbol on the video to learn how to start knitting right NOW!
Think someone else would like the video or pattern? Don’t forget to share this (and my other patterns) on your social media. You can use these handy links ????????
I have many other video and patterns that are great for beginners and more experienced knitters. Beside to check them all out on my FREE Knitting Patterns page. This is a comprehensive list that is automatically updated whenever I publish any new knitting patterns.
If youโve done a little knitting before and are looking for something thatโs a bit more challenging, why not give this knitted dishcloth pattern a whirl! Itโs not overly complicated and looks awesome when youโre done. If you know knitting basics, you can easily get this done in an evening over the course of a couple of hours. If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, Iโve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches.
I only use hand knit dishcloths and have for years. I canโt express the superiority of these things! Regardless of the style, and I have designed a few, they last forever, have fabulous scrubbing power and double as a great heat protector when setting a hot pan on the counter or grabbing something out of the oven. They wash well and itโs nice to have something on hand that reminds you of how truly crafty you are.
And as promised, here is the video showing you every step of this pattern. If you ever wanted to learn how to knit this video will show you how.
Want to see more free videos and patterns? Maybe want to show a little love? Click this link to find out how you can Help Support My Work.
To help you with some of the trickier parts, all the rows (and a few of the stitches and finishing off) are clickable links that will take you to the correct point in the video that demonstrates exactly how to do it.
If you’re loving the free patterns and want to help support the continuation of this website, learn how you can support my work. And don’t forget to share this pattern on social media with those handy links.
You an also watch the video in full right here! It will play automaticallyย at the end of my EPIC trailer. I made this quite some time ago when my lap top was new and was making videos a lot.
Want to see more free videos and patterns? Maybe want to show a little love? Click this link to find out how you can Help Support My Work.
If you need help at any point, from what supplies you need, to how to do a stitch, to working in the ends, watch the video: The Beginner Knitter โ Learn to Knit a Dishcloth and it will explain it all.
If you prefer to buy the pattern from another online retailer, you can go to my Etsy shop, Ravelry or LoveCrafts.
So social distancing and forced unemployment seems to be going well for me…or at least incredibly productive as far as my pattern designing goes. Sigh! It certainly is a weird time. Anywho…
If you’ve done a little knitting before and are looking for something that’s a bit more challenging, why not give this knitted dishcloth pattern a whirl! It’s not overly complicated and looks awesome when you’re done. If you know knitting basics, you can easily get this done in an evening over the course of a couple of hours. If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting on, knit stitch, purl, and bind off.
I really like this bow motif. In case you haven’t run across my other use of these cute AF bows, check out my Easy to Knit Bows Slippers knitting pattern. The bows themselves are made as you go and guaranteed to never fall off. For convenience, I’ve included the same pictorial showing how you knit them. If you’ve already made enough bows to choke a small horse, I have the pattern written in full without all the photos – The Whole Damn Pattern Written Without the Photos.
If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons ?? to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!
Due to the popularity of other PDF’s I’ve been creating, I finally got around to making the downloadable version of this pattern. For a minimal cost , you can download the ad free version. You can get it directly from this website here – How to Knit a Cute AF Bows Dishcloth. If you would prefer to use another online retailer to download from, you can also find and download this pattern onLoveCrafts, Ravelry or Etsy.
Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, youโll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my workโฆ Exclusive Member Area
โบ๏ธ Row 9:ย K5 โ ๏ธ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).
Purl the next stitch.
K5 โ ๏ธ Repeat from โ ๏ธ to โ ๏ธ 2 more times.
(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 โ ๏ธ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 โ ๏ธ Repeat from โ ๏ธ to โ ๏ธ 2 more times.
Row 10:ย K5 โฃ๏ธ K1 P3 K1 P5 โฃ๏ธ Repeat from โฃ๏ธ to โฃ๏ธ 1 more time. K1 P3 K6
Row 11: Repeat row 9.
Row 12: Repeat row 10.
Row 13: Repeat row 9.
Row 14: Repeat row 10. The bow portion will look like this.
Row 15:ย K5 โฆ๏ธ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.
Knit the next stitch.
Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).
K1 P1 K5 โฆ๏ธ. Repeat from โฆ๏ธ to โฆ๏ธ 2 more times.
(Row 15 rewritten without photos: K5 โฆ๏ธ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 โฆ๏ธ Repeat from โฆ๏ธ to โฆ๏ธ 2 more times.
The bow portion will look like this.
Row 16: As row 10
Row 17: K across
Row 18: As row 8.
Row 19: K10 โฝ๏ธ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 โฝ๏ธ Repeat from โฝ๏ธ to โฝ๏ธ once. K5.
Row 20: K5 P5 โฆ K1 P3 K1 P5 โฆ Repeat from โฆ to โฆ 1 more time. K5.
Row 21: As row 19.
Row 22: As row 20.
Row 23: As row 19
Row 24: As row 20
Row 25: K10. โ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 โ Repeat from โ to โ 1 more time. K5
Row 26: Repeat row 20.
Row 27: Knit across.
Row 28: As row 8. โบ๏ธ Repeat โบ๏ธ to โบ๏ธ (row 9 to row 28 make the pattern.)
โบ๏ธ Row 9:ย K5 โ ๏ธ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 โ ๏ธ Repeat from โ ๏ธ to โ ๏ธ 2 more times.
Row 10:ย K5 โฃ๏ธ K1 P3 K1 P5 โฃ๏ธ Repeat from โฃ๏ธ to โฃ๏ธ 1 more time. K1 P3 K6
Row 11: Repeat row 9.
Row 12: Repeat row 10.
Row 13: Repeat row 9.
Row 14: Repeat row 10. The bow portion will look like this.
Row 15:ย K5 โฅ๏ธ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 โฅ๏ธ. Repeat from โฅ๏ธ to โฅ๏ธ 2 more times.
Row 16: As row 10
Row 17: K across
Row 18: As row 8.
Row 19: K10 โฆ๏ธ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 โฆ๏ธ Repeat from โฆ๏ธ to โฆ๏ธ once. K5.
Row 20: K5 P5 โฝ๏ธ K1 P3 K1 P5 โฝ๏ธ Repeat from โฝ๏ธ to โฝ๏ธ 1 more time. K5.
Row 21: As row 19.
Row 22: As row 20.
Row 23: As row 19
Row 24: As row 20
Row 25: K10. โฆ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 โฆ Repeat from โฆ to โฆ 1 more time. K5
Row 26: Repeat row 20.
Row 27: Knit across.
Row 28: As row 8. โบ๏ธ Repeat โบ๏ธ to โบ๏ธ (row 9 to row 28 make the pattern.)
Like all of my patterns, the viewing of this patterns allows for you to give away or sell any of the physical items you make from this pattern. You are not allowed to claim this pattern as your own, give it away, sell it or redistribute it in ANY form without my WRITTEN consent. That includes Printing this webpage.
And to those who think it doesn’t matter… meh. It’s theft of my intellectual property (ip) and it makes you look like a douche. Just sayin’.
I only use hand knit dishcloths and have for years. I can’t express the superiority of these things! Regardless of the style, and I have designed a few, they last forever, have fabulous scrubbing power and double as a great heat protector when setting a hot pan on the counter or grabbing something out of the oven. They wash well and it’s nice to have something on hand that reminds you of how truly crafty you are ?
Not only are these great to have around, but this is another great project for anyone learning how to knit. This knitting pattern uses very basic stitches and I’ve made a complete how-to video showing every single step! Learn to cast on, knit, purl, cast off and work in the ends when you are finished. All you need to do is press the โถ๏ธ button to start watching.
Learn how to knit and make a lovely dishcloth!
If you’re learning how to knit, this is a great project to learn on. Even if it doesn’t turn out perfectly, you still have a useable item. And if you do know how to knit already, it’s a great way to use up the left overs from your stash. And who couldn’t use an extra dishcloth or two anyways.
Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, youโll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my workโฆ Exclusive Member Area
If you are loving this and all the other free knitting patterns on this site, please consider checking out Help Support My Work page. If you can’t afford to help out financially, which I’m totally cool with btw, please consider sharing this pattern with everyone you think may be interested. I’ve included these handy dandy share buttons below. You can help promote this site with a few simple clicks!
This pattern is now available for download for a small fee/donations. You can download the ad free, printable version from a number of online retailers. You can download it from my website – Bars and Stripes Knitted Dishcloth, my Etsy shop, and Ravelry.
The repeat signs are different in this pattern than what is mentioned in the video. If you haven’t watched the video, then you can ignore the unicorn and teddy bear comments written below.
FYI – this image โ ๏ธ replaces in the video This image โฆ๏ธ replaces in the video
I’ve made the pattern so it is a square as I could get it. If you feel it’s too long (or short) add or take away โ ๏ธ to โ ๏ธ repeats. It’s a washcloth, not rocket science. The final piece can be however you like it.
I know some people (Me. I’m some people) like things to have the same motif on both sides. This isn’t one of those things. The backside isn’t terrible, just different from the front. It’s either going to offend you to the core of your being or you won’t give a fยตโฌk. It’s your call.
If you hold the cast on end to the back of your work and catch the yarn every other stitch, you’ll have one less end to sew in. I’ve made a quick photo tutorial showing you how to do it. You can see it here – How to Work in Ends While Knitting. I hate sewing in ends and this is a great technique to learn.
If you have any questions or comments you can send me an email through my contact page. The comment section at the bottom of this pattern is also great to post your questions. I answer them ASAP.
This pattern grants you the pleasure and profit of selling or giving away anything that you make. It does NOT give you permission to publish, print or distribute it in any format. You are NOT permitted to claim this pattern as your own. Please respect mine, and other author’s rights. You’re a huge jerky jerk if you do this and I’m certain puppy dogs don’t like you because you’re such a horrible person. How can you live with yourself???
This technique can be used to edge dishcloths, blankets, slippers, sweaters, or anything else. You may need to use a crochet hook one size smaller than the knitting needles or crochet hook used to make your project. You may also need to experiment with spacing to have the edge lie flat. Usually one stitch every other stitch will work.
Searching for a free crochetย pattern that’s suited for beginners? Then you’ve come to the right place! Learn how to crochet a dishcloth with the embedded video below. You can read thisย crochet dishcloth patternย online andย downloadย itย here too ?
Learn how to knit a simple dishcloth with this step-by-step video. Also includes a FREE knitting pattern that you can download here – Knitting for Beginners – How to Knit a Dishcloth. You can also read the full pattern online in another section of this website – How to Knit a Dishcloth.
This dishcloth is very easy to make and a great project for beginners as it uses very basic stitches that are easy to master. For the tougher points, like making the teeth (simply an elongated dc) and the edging, there are photos and a video to help you along.
And if you’d like to see the free patterns coming, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Because even pirates and rock stars need to do the dishes, I’ve created the coolest dishcloth known to man. That’s right! A crocheted dishcloth that’s reversible with a skull and crossbones on it. Now who DOESN’T want that in their kitchen! Crazy people, that’s who.
This dishcloth is very easy to make and a great project for beginners as it uses very basic crochet stitches that are easy to master. For the tougher points, like making the teeth (simply an elongated double crochet) and the edging, there are photos and a video to help you along. Or you can keep scrolling down the page to watch it here.
Get the PDF version of the pattern from my website. A PDF file will work on any device (iPad, tablet, smartphone, computer, etc.) however you will need Adobe Reader to open and view the file. This is a free program which can be downloaded here – http://get.adobe.com/reader/
Liking the free patterns and would like to see more? Consider supporting my work with a small donation through PayPal or by making a purchase of any of my hand made items. You can do both by going to this page – Help Support My Work. Clicking and sharing this pattern, and my other patterns, on social media also helps me out immensely. I’ve provided links above that enable you to do so easily.
Things you need:
Size 4.25 crochet hook (Size doesn’t really matter but if you use a larger hook, the dishcloth will be larger, and with a smaller hook, it will be smaller)
Row 7: 11 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 7 dc in each dc (click that link or scroll down the page to see photos to help you along) st below, ch 1 skip next st, 12 dc. Ch 2, turn.
With right side facing, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc between every 2nd dc along the top and bottom edges and around each dc and ch 2 post along the sides. Not sure how to do a backwards single crochet? Watch my how-to video on YouTube here: Crochet Edging for Dishcloths.
Hints and tips:
Use any cotton yarn that you like. Cotton only! Acrylic doesn’t work well for dish washing, and wool will felt and look pretty disgusting after a while. Also, I’ve written the pattern to use less than one ball of the most common cotton yarns available in big box stores (one starts with a โWโ). These make great gifts that are extremely affordable to make.
When skipping a stitch you may be making a dc in either a ch or a dc. St is used regardless to make the pattern easier to read.
Hold the starting yarn end behind the your work when making the edging. That way you only have the final end to sew in when done.
You can make the edging in a different colour for a bit of extra pizzazz. I don’t because I strongly dislike sewing in ends. An extra colour means extra work ?
The pattern itself is very easy to do and definitely one that a person new to crocheting could follow. I’ve also provided the pattern with two different edges. My personal preference is to end it with a backwards single crochet, but a single crochet in each stitch and row will also work.
If you are new to crocheting, I’ve included links to points in the video to help you with specific rows and stitches. If you’d like to watch the video from the beginning you can use this link:ย Crochet a Dishclothย or you can scroll down to watch the video from this page. If you’d like to download the ad free version of this crochet pattern, you canย download it for a small fee/donation from my website:ย Crochet a Dishcloth.
To help you with some of the more tricky parts, all the rows (and a few of the stitches) are clickable links that will take you to the correct point in the video that demonstrates exactly how to do it. The links will take you off this site and on to YouTube. If you want to watch the video here, scroll to the bottom of the page to view it.
Enjoying the free videos and patterns and would like to see more? Then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and help me immensely ?. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Row 1: Sc in 4th ch from the hook. *Ch 1, skip a ch, sc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the chain. Ch 2, turn. (20 sc) If you have too many chains see how to fix that here: How to Undo Chain Stitches.
Row 2: Sc in the ch 1 space. *Ch 1, sc in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Sc in the ch 4 space from the beginning chain. Ch 2, turn.
Row 3:Sc in the ch 1 space. *Ch 1, sc in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Sc in the ch 2 space from the previous row. Ch 2, turn.
Repeat row 3 until the dishcloth is square or the desired length.
Edging:
Single Crochet (White dishcloth as shown above):
Row 1: Sc in each row along the left edge of the dishcloth. 3 sc in the corner st. 1 sc in each sc along bottom edge. 3 sc in corner st. Sc in each row along the right edge of the dishcloth. 3 sc in the corner st. 1 sc in each sc along top edge. Finish off.
Backwards Single Crochet (Purple dishcloth as shown above):
Row 1: Complete 1 bsc (backwards single crochet) in every 2nd stitch of the row you just made. 1 bsc in the corner st. 1 bsc in every 2nd row along the right edge of the dishcloth. 1 bsc in the corner st. 1 bsc in every 2nd st along the bottom edge of the dishcloth. 1 bsc in the corner st. 1 bsc in every 2nd row along the left edge. 1 bsc in the corner st. Finish off.
How to do a bsc (backwards single crochet):
Here’s the video that can show you how. Keep scrolling down the page to see the pictorial how-to.
Unlike regular crochet stitches and instead of working from right to left in regular crochet (if you’re right handed), you’re going to work from left to right.
Step 1: Insert the hook from front to back in the next st.
Step 2: Hook the yarn and draw the loop through the front of your work.
Step 3: Hook the yarn and draw through the two loops. Pretty simple, huh?
You can adjust the size as you see fit. I prefer a smaller dishcloth but you may like it larger. You can either add more chains at the start of the cloth or you can make more rows. Either way will work but remember to buy more yarn if you want it larger. You can also use a larger size hook to make the stitches looser.
And as promised, here is the complete step-by-step video for you to watch.
Everything owls. What more can I say. I don’t have a lot of knitted things with owls, but this is a pretty good start. It’s enough for any owl fan to wear their favourite animal all season long no matter what the weather.
This is an old riff on a new design. As you may know, I have a thing for owls. I’m also starting to develop a thing for hats. In particular, bucket hats. I have…
These colourful, cuffed owl fingerless mitts are made to match my very popular Owl Beanie and Owl Scarf, also knit flat on two needles. You can click the links if you would like to make either one; or…
Owls seem to hold a draw for a lot of people, myself included. I think there are as many reasons as there are people as to why this happens.
This scarf is made to match…
I really do like how well the owl motif worked on this hat! And surprisingly didn’t take much figuring or math once I wrote out the Basic Knit Flat Beanie. I did have to play around…
Well, since the how-to video showing how to knit these gloves in the round went over like a lead balloon, I’ve put in the effort and redesigned the gloves so they can be knit…
Also known as fingerless mittens, I seem to have a thing going on for this awesome owl motif. If you haven’t seen them already, I also have a Knitted Owl Slipper pattern that you…
Awesome cozy knitted slippers for women and men with a delightful cabled owl motif. The inspiration came to me while scrolling through the wonders of the internet and stumbling on other knitted slippers that…
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The perfect knitting project for binge watching the latest series on Netflix and incidentally, how I developed this pattern. To Breaking Bad, if you must know. I’m sure Walter White would be proud. FYI this pattern was written back in 2015 so that reference was a lot more timely back then.ย
The pattern is easy to follow and repeats the same eight rows for the length of the scarf, which can be as long or as short as you like. If you have never knitted cables before, the pattern includes photos and instructions how to do it. By the time you’re finished this project, you’ll have mastered the art of the cable stitch, have a lovely scarf and hopefully have closure for all your favourite characters. Now in 2020, it’llย probably be something likeย Stranger Things.ย
If you need help with the pattern, you can view the complete how to from start to finish with my YouTube video:ย Knit a Cable Scarfย (The video is embedded further along). If you know how to knit but need a little extra help with forming the cables, you can watch how to do the C2F, the C2B with my videos:ย C2Fย andย C2B. Or if starting the cable pattern is giving you trouble, I have a video for that too:ย Starting the Cable Pattern. All the video links open to a new page so you won’t lose this one.
ย
If you’re looking for more scarf/dishcloth designs I have a bunch of others you may be interested in. You can click any of the following links to check some of them out.
To get the pattern, click the button to open a new browser window. You can save this document to your device. It varies depending on what device (phone, tablet, computer) and what operating system you are using.ย
If you are on your computer running Windows, holding down the “control” key while you tap the “s” key. This will trigger the “SAVE” function. Put it in whatever file you choose.ย
You can also holdย down the “control” key while you tap the “p” key. This will activate the “PRINT” function. Print as you normally would.
You can come back to the page as many times as you like.ย
No log in or personal info is required to gain access to this pattern.
If you are having a tough time finding what you need, click any of the links below to get everything you need to make this scarf.
200 gr ofย worsted weight yarnย (This could be more of less depending on how long you want your scarf).
Size 5 (US size 8) single pointed knitting needlesย or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.
Cable knitting needle
Tapestry Needle – for working in the ends
Gauge
12 rows stockinette = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″
If your gauge is off your scarf will be either narrower or wider, but it really isn’t overly important for this project.
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And just so you know, this is one of the first videos I ever made. It is old. Try not to judge too harshly.
The Pattern
Cast on 40
Row 1:ย Knit across
Row 2-7:ย Sl st as if to knit. Knit across.
Row 8:ย Sl st as if to knit. K3 P32 K4.
Row 9:ย Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 16 times. P1 K3.
Row 10:ย Sl st as if to knit. K3 (P1 K1) 16 times K4.
Repeat rows 9-10, 4 times more for an additional 8 rows.
๐ฆ Next row:ย Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K6 P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 K6 P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
๐ฆ Next row:ย Sl st as if to knit. K3 (P1 K1) 3 times. P6 K1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K1 P6 K1 (K1 P1) 2 times. K5.
๐ธ Next row:ย Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times.C2Fย K2 P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 C2F K2 P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
Next row: Repeat row with ๐ฆ
Next row: Repeat row with ๐ฆ
Next row: Repeat row with ๐ฆ
Next row:ย Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K2 C2Bย P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 K2 C2B P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
Next row: Repeat row with ๐ฆ (๐ end with this row when scarf is the desired length.)
Next row: Repeat row with ๐ฆ
Next row: Repeat row with ย ๐ฆ ย ๐ธ
Repeat rows from ๐ธ to ๐ธ. These 8 rows form the cable pattern. End the cable pattern with the row marked with ๐.
Repeat until the scarf is the desired length, keeping in mind that the finished edge adds another 2 1/2 inches on to the length.
Next rows:ย Repeat rows 9-10 6 times for a total of 12 rows.
Next row:ย Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 K32 P1 K3.
Next rows:ย Repeat rows 2-7.
Cast off.
ย
How to Make the Cable
C2F โ Cable 2 forward
With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle
Pull the stitches towards theย front of your work.
Knit the next 2 stitches.
ย
Knit the stitches from the cable needle.
ย
Knit the last 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2).
C2B โ Cable 2 backward
Knit the first 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2.)
With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle.
Pull the stitches towards theย backย of your work.
Knit the next 2 stitches.
Knit the stitches from the cable needle.
ย
C2Fย – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards theย frontย of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C2Bย โ Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards theย backย of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
Sl st – Slip 1 stitch off
Hints and Tips
Be very careful to get the stitches right at the beginning when forming the cable pattern. Once the pattern become more set, it becomes easy to see where you need to purl and knit and what stitches form the cable.
The back of the cables are ALWAYS purl stitches and the stitch on either side of them is ALWAYS a knit.
The stitch at the beginning of each row is slipped off and not knitted. This gives the edges of the scarf less stretch and lets the scarf hold its edge through wear and washings. If you don’t want to and would prefer to just knit, that’s ok. Just be consistent whether you knit it or not.
The easiest way to make any cable pattern is to see the pattern as panels versus individual rows. Unfortunately, there’s no other way to write a knitting pattern other than rows. If you see the scarfs pattern as the knitted edge, the moss stitch panel (the K1 P1 portions), the cable, moss stitch panel, another cable, moss stitch panel, knitted edge, it becomes very easy to do.
I did end up making a dishcloth version of this pattern. Do I love it? No. Do I hate it? No. Would I make it again? No. To be square there isn’t many repeats of the cable. I did four. It looks ok. If I was to redo it, I’d use a smaller gauge needle for sure. I would also cast on with a smaller needle than what I was going to knit the rest of the scarf/dishcloth.
It ain't so great...
Abbreviations
K โ Knit
P โ Purl
sts โ stitches
C2Fย – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards theย frontย of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C2Bย โ Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards theย backย of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
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Are you just learning to knit? Tired of making dishcloths and scarves and want to make something awesome? Here is something that will make you look like a pro when it comes to knitting. A total brag-worthy design that any knitting newbie can make.
I’ve written a bunch of beginner patterns for slippers, but never for fingerless gloves. It was a common request, but for some reason, I never felt compelled to do so. After a bit of false starts and redesigns, I’ve finally come up with a fingerless glove pattern that I am happy with. I’ve kept the seams to a minimum and placed the seam along the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb. If you’re not a fan of seams my other fingerless gloves and mitts knitted on dpn can be found here – Fingerless Gloves โ with OWLS, How to Knit Texting Mittens, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves and How to Knit Flip Mitts.
These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches. If you need help with increasing stitches, there is a video showing how to increase when making the P1 and the M1.I also just made a video showing How to Use a Stitch Holder. You can click those links to watch the how-to videos. They are also embedded at the end of this page. Scroll to the bottom to watch.
I’ve also jazzed up this basic design a bit. If you want to knit owl gloves flat on 2 needles just like this pattern is, You can use this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to read the free knitting pattern online.
I’ve also written the pattern to fit different sizes – small, medium and large. Once again I’ll use the analogy of what fits my hand. I wear a medium rubber glove and the medium size fits my hand perfectly. I wash dishes and scrub my toilets. I wear gloves when I do. If you never wear rubber or latex gloves, this won’t make any sense to you, I guess. I’m only saying this because I have had complaints about my sizing references. I don’t live in a gloveless kind of world but I’m glad some people do. It always amazes me what some “Karens” feel the need to bitch about ? If you want to go to a specific size you can try these links. If I’ve done my code correctly, it should take you to the right point on the webpage:
I’ve made a PDF download for this pattern. I didn’t think it was going to be this long until I wrote it out. I made the decision to write each size and hand out separately to make it even easier for the new knitters out there who want to give this pattern a go. And btw, you can totally do it! To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and from this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. Available in English only.
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I also plan on making a how-to video for this. It will cover the medium size as that’s what most people order when I sell online. I always am hopeful I’ll get the videos done in a timely manner, but they’re always more work than I think they’re going to be. You can check out my other videos in the meantime with this handy link – KweenBee on YouTube – Janis Frank.
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Gauge
This is important to follow for correct sizing.
2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts
2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows
If You Need Help with the M1 or P1
Scroll down to the end of the page to watch quick how-to videos showing how to do these simple stitches. There’s a video showing how to use a stitch holder too!
Things You Need:
You can click any link below to see what you need.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.
The purple fingerless mitts have 60 rows total between the garter stitch cuff and the start of the thumb gusset (Row 15 – 22). I don’t think I would increase much further than that. The glove itself isn’t very stretchy and won’t fit further up the forearm. Too much bunching may also make the glove push its way further down and off the fingers.
I used some self-striping yarn to make these. Not all striping yarn is created equal. Some of them are designed to stripe for larger projects and don’t really work for smaller projects like this. Though with saying that, you could always cut the yarn and start a new colour where you choose. You will have more ends to deal with, but I have a post that shows you How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. ?? This link will take you right there.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.
How to make one or M1 – Increase between stitches.
PM1- Make one (purl wise). Pick up the stitch as you did for M1, but purl the stitch as you regularly would. You can watch the video below.
And for those of you who are unsure of how to use a stitch holder, I made a quick little video that shows you how to do it without cutting the yarn. It’s a time saver for sure. No one likes working in ends if they can avoid it.
It wasn’t until this very moment in my life that I realized that naming a knitting pattern for winter headgear was going to be complicated. For those that don’t know about the internet and how information is found, writers have to write around keywords so web crawlers can find the information. I won’t bore you any further with that, but it does cause some, indecision, shall we say, when it comes to naming this knitting pattern. As it so happens, there are at least 3 ways to spell what I know as a touque. I’m Canadian. That’s what we call it and how I have always spelled it. My autocorrect on the other hand, is calling me a doofus and insists that it’s toque. In a state of mild rage I went to the internet to see what’s what in regard to this winter hat dilemma. Turns out there is a third option: tuque. What the actual “f”?!
I do realize that a lot of people generally refer to winter headwear as beanies. TBH that to me is a more tight fitting winter hat that conforms to the shape of your head and NEVER has a pom pom. These are the manly toques worn under hooded things like hoodies and winter jackets, especially when it gets really cold outside.
This pattern is different from most touque patterns I’ve seen and knit up over the years. I’m a little obsessed with short rows this last couple of months. So far I’ve made dishcloths and coasters and slippers using this technique. Instead of casting on all the stitches you’ll need to go around the head, this touque is knit from the forehead to the crown or top of the head. It’s still knit flat, with the shaping of the head being worked as you go. It also gives a neat vertical striping effect if you’re using self striping yarn. And just so you know, the smaller the stripes the narrower the stripes on the toque.
If you would prefer a printed copy of this pattern, there are a couple options for you. No, you don’t need to message me how you’re up in arms that you can’t print this webpage. You can keep scrolling down this page and read the pattern row by row on your phone or tablet in the comfort of your chair as you knit. A printed copy is a preference but not necessary to read and use this pattern.
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If you like the vertical stripes but have no self striping yarn, I’ve marked in the pattern where to change the colours. This makes this touque a great project to use up all those left over bits of yarn from other projects. I keep them too. I just can’t bring myself to throw out those bits. I always feel I’ll find a use for them.
But enough. You’re here to knit…
Things You Need:
Worsted weight yarn โ a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). It may need to be more if you want a big, dense and fluffy pom pom.
Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles or whatever you need to acquire the correct gauge.
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends
Pom pom maker โ or you can use the two pieces of cardboard method. I’m sure there’s a video on YouTube showing how to do this.
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts โ 5 cm (2″)
12 rows โ 5 cm (2โ)
Sizes are for small, medium and large and are written as such sm (med, lg).
Small โ 21 inches
Medium โ 22.5 inches
Large โ 24 inches
Sizing is always general for knitting as it has a fair amount of stretch to it and tends to contract and expand as needed.
Abbreviations
K โ knit
P โ purl
st โ stitch
sts – stitches
Starting the Toque, Touque, Tuque, Beanie….*Sigh* I give up SMH
Any type of yarn will work for this project. It doesn’t have to be striped just because that’s how I did it. A solid colour would look just as good. Another option it to use the ombre yarns that gently shift from one colour to another. It’s nice to be able to make a beanie that has the colour transition go up and down instead of the usual horizontal way.
Colour changes have to be done in groups of 2 or 7 colours if you want to maintain the proper sequence. For example: black, white, black white, black white, etc. for 2 colours. If you want 7 different colours it would have to be something like: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, black and then repeat those colours again in that order. Of course, it you’re using up leftover yarn and aren’t repeating colours, it doesn’t matter.
Another way to think of it…there are 14 possible colour sections to this winter hat. Any number that fits equally into 14 can be repeated in sequence around the hat.
When making colour changes, you can work in the ends as you go for the first colour change. I show how to do that here โ How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can also work them in with the tapestry needle when done.
The second colour change occurs at the top of the hat. I tie and knot the ends of the yarn together as I change colour. When done, I thread them up and through the pom pom and cut off the dangly bits so they blend in with it. The knots are above the crown of the head and don’t actually touch the scalp. It’s an easy, time saving short cut.
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What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, โThat texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?โ Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.
This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.
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Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4โ = 16 sts
4โ = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
To Begin
Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)
? Row 1 โ 2: K1 P1 across.
Row 3 โ 4: K across. ?
Repeat from ? to ? 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)
Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.
Break yarn when completed row 2.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With RIGHTside facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches(the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
? Next 2 Rows: Knit across.
Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. ?
Repeat from ? to ? 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.
With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap.
With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38)stitches on this needle.
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
How the needle arrangement should look.
Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.
Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif. I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern. The horizontal ridges look the same for you.
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONGside facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.
Quick tip โ wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
? Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Next Row: Knit across ?
Repeat from ? to ? down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continue to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
โฅ๏ธ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)
The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges when making the larger sizes.
The above photo shows 9 rows of ridges.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).
Picking up the stitch on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across โฅ๏ธ
Repeat fromย โฅ๏ธ toย โฅ๏ธย 0 (1, 2, 3)ย moreย times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when theย RIGHTย side facing you.
Making the Heel
I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.
โฆ๏ธย Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. โฆ๏ธ
Repeat from โฆ๏ธ to โฆ๏ธ until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!!
Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.
Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.
Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.
If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting โ KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.
Abbreviations
k โ knit
p – purl
k2tog โ knit 2 together
st โ stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
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The pattern gives instructions to make small, medium and large sizes.
These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches.
Knit a fabulous pair of fingerless gloves or mitts with the cutest little bows flowing down the length of your arm and back of your hand. Create the bows as you go; I have pics to show you how. Make them as long or as short as you like. It really depends on how much you like knitting in the round on double pointed needles (DPN).
Don’t want to read this online and avoid the ads. You can download this pattern for 99ยข directly from this website here – How to Knit Fingerless Arm Warmers or Gloves – with Bows! I can now process credit and debit cards right here on the website. Not cool with that? You can also download the pattern through Ravelry, Etsy and other retailers.
Like the owl motif, I have a love affair going on with these bows. So far, I’ve incorporated it into slippers and a dishcloth, both of which are available to read right here on my website for free (that’s right, give those links a click). They are also downloadable in a number of online retailers such as Raverly, Etsy, Google Books and Amazon for a minimal cost. If you’re not a fan of intro blog blather or ads, you can also download this pattern at any of those fine retailers.
A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes and having the bows remain centered, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These mitts knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for theleft hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.
If you’re running into problems with this knitting pattern or have a question, scroll down to the Hints and Tipssection at the bottom of the post. I think I’ve pretty much answered everything. You can also click the link above to take you right there. If there are additional questions, they’ll pop up in the comments over time which are at the bottom of the page.
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Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your printable PDF copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.
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worsted weight yarn (any standard ball will be more than enough to make the shorter, hand only version. You’ll need more if you are making them longer. For example, I used less than a 100 gr or 3.5 oz ball to make the long green gloves in size medium.)
Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends
A Note on Sizing
As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.
Like most things I knit, I use myself for standard sizing. To give you an idea of fit, I wear a medium sized latex glove. The medium size bow glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.
Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.
Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around
Rounds 8 – 9: K around
โฅ๏ธ Round 10: K8 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19.
Making the strand. Notice that the stitches passed over are spread apart and not bunched together.
Strand complete. Note the slack of the strand.
Round 11: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 12: As round 10
Round 13: As round 11
Round 14: As round 10
Round 15: As round 11
Round 16: As round 10
Round 17: As round 11
Round 18: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up
Four strands on the working needle
And knit the next stitch.
Four strands and about to knit the stitch
Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed).
Pull the yarn down beneath the strands as shown
All strands caught by the knit stitch
The bow once the other 3 stitches are knitted
K3 P1 K19
Round 18 written without photos: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 19: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19 โฅ๏ธ
Repeat from โฅ๏ธ toย โฅ๏ธ if you would like a longer length of glove. Each ? to ? repeat makes 1 bow motif.
Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 21: K to the P P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 22: K to the P P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 24: As round 22
Round 25: As round 21
Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 27: As round 21
Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 30: As round 22
Round 31: As round 21
Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 33: As round 21
Round 34: As round 22
Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 36: As round 22
Round 37: As round 21
Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K6 P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 39: As round 21
Rounds 40 โ 41: K around
Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in lat stitch.
Round 43 โ 46: K1 P1 around.
Cast off loosely.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.
Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.
Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around
Rounds 8 – 9: K around
โฅ๏ธ Round 10: K22 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5.
Round 11: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 12: As round 10
Round 13: As round 11
Round 14: As round 10
Round 15: As round 11
Round 16: As round 10
Round 17: As round 11
Round 18: K22 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 19: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5ย โฅ๏ธ
Repeat fromย ? toย ? if you would like a longer length of glove. Eachย โฅ๏ธ toย โฅ๏ธ repeat makes 1 bow motif.
Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 21: K to the P. P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 22: K to the P. P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 24: As round 22
Round 25: As round 21
Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 27: As round 21
Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 30: As round 22
Round 31: As round 21
Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 33: As round 21
Round 34: As round 22
Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 36: As round 22
Round 37: As round 21
Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K to the P. P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 39: As round 21
Rounds 40 โ 41: K around
Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in last stitch.
Round 43 โ 46: K1 P1 around.
Cast off loosely.
Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.
You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.
Spread the 7 passed stitches apart to allow for some slack in the strand. If you don’t the bows will pucker. I usually spread them as far apart as they will go and stay in a relaxed position.
A quick note on making them longer into arm warmers. The green arm warmers repeat the bow section 4 more times than what is written. As it is written you get the short gloves with 3 bow motifs. The final length is about 25 cm or 9.5 inches long. Depending on the circumference of the arm you may need to add and cast on more stitches. This is where having the bows staying centred gets difficult. I can’t really help you with that. It’s a bunch of additional math, frustration and trial and error I really don’t want to get into. Sorry.
Your gauge isnโt overly important but best if itโs at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if theyโre a little small or large.
I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.
You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between 2 knit stitches before the purl at the start of the bow motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the bow and lessens the chances of dropping or adding a stitch when switching between working needles.
When you are done making the bows, they may pull a bit weirdly on one side. Simply put your needle beneath the 4 strands and give a bit of a tug up away from the mitt on both sides. That is enough to straighten and even them out.
If you’ve gained a stitch, check to see that you haven’t picked up a stitch between your needles. This is very easy to do and I even do it on occasion. When switching between needles the yarn will catch on the needle, not falling in behind again like it should. If you’re a little distracted, you’ll knit this new “stitch”, gaining an extra stitch on the next round.
I havenโt tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn (DK or 3 perhaps) can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.
Abbreviations:
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
K – Knit
P – Purl
Sts – stitches
K2tog – Knit 2 together
I’m going to repeat this statement just in case you missed it earlier…
Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost of 99ยข. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.
I have a variety of knitting and crochet patterns for you to download and print. Some of my patterns are free but most require a small fee/donation to download. I had to change it from being completely free because some folks would download every single pattern on the site and not give so much as a thank you.
If youโre not comfortable with giving your information, youโre more than welcome to read the patterns online. Nearly all of my patterns are written out in full on my website. You can also find all the same printable pattern over in my Etsy shop.
If you become a website member for a small monthly fee, there is no charge to download the patterns. Click “Add to Cart” or “Buy Now” (it will say $0.00) and go to “Checkout”. You won’t be charged any additional fees and you can get your patterns immediately.
I’m leaving the downloads very open ended. Search for whatever you are looking for. Using terms like “knit pattern” or “crochet pattern” will list everything available to download. You can use more specific terms like “slipper pattern” or “beanie pattern” too.
You can also click any photo below to go to the knitting or crochet category.
If you are just learning the basic knitting stitches and need a bit of help, you’ve come to the right place. This Is great place teaching knitting for beginners!
Here, you can learn how to knit the basic knitting stitches with the easy to follow videos. Once you’ve mastered those techniques (or maybe you already have) then you can progress to the simple knitting patterns with step-by-step videos.
Keep scrolling down the page to see the videos that are available. I’ll add more as I create them, though with all the policy changes YouTube has made lately, it’s not economically rewarding to create them anymore.
And don’t worry, I haven’t forgotten about the crocheters out there. I haven’t made many how-to videos for you yet, but I’ve included one that I made here, too.
I have more videos on YouTube if you’d like to check them out. If you’d like to check out the full video library you can go to my YouTube channel.
Basic Knitting Stitches
Learn how to knit with simple, easy to follow videos! This is a great resource to learn all of the basic knitting stitches that you need.
One Piece Knitted Dishcloth and Coasters โ FREE Knitting Pattern for Beginnersrs
A super quick knitting tutorial for knitters. If you already know how to knit, you may not even need the pattern once you see how it is done. If you’ve never knit before, this may be the pattern for you.
How to Knit a Dishcloth โ Easy Knitting for Beginners
Want to learn how to knit? This knitting pattern for beginners covers all the knitting basics. It will teach everything from how to cast on, to knitting, purling, how to cast off and working in the ends
How to Knit in the Round – Knitted Fingerless Owl Gloves
If you want to learn to knit in the round on double pointed needles (dpn), this step-by-step video shows every round and stitch. You can’t NOT do this!
This is by far my most popular how-to video on YouTube! ? You can read and download the knitting patterns for the adult sizes by clicking the links below. Follow the links provided if you require the child sizes.
Learn how to knit these comfy bootie slippers with this easy to follow, step-by-step video. If you would like to read the pattern online, you can do that here, too. Click one of the buttons below.
This technique can be used to edge dishcloths, blankets, slippers, sweaters, or anything else. I’ve used it for a number of dishcloths that you can read online.
Who could use more washcloths? Let’s be honest, who couldn’t.
These wonderful and easy to make crochet dishcloths are just what you need to make if you’re looking for something simple and repetitive to occupy your mind while watching TV or binging the latest series on Netflix. I’m partial to Indian Matchmaking right now myself ?
As the title and photos suggest, there are three different versions of this washcloth available on the Hands Yarn Hook website, all on one page which makes it even easier to navigate. This link will take you to the page: Crochet Washcloths โ 3 Free Textured Patterns
Sometimes it’s nice to have smaller projects that use up our stash ends. Sometimes we want to give something to that favourite child in our lives. Maybe we are sill looking for an excuse to make something a little more on the fun and whimsical side. Whatever the reason, knitting patterns designed for children seem to involve all those factors. Here’s a quick sampling of the few things I’ve found lurking about on the web.
So not necessarily a kid thing, it’s a bit more on the whimsical side byย not beingย your basic square washcloth. It looks like tit’s knitted in the round but in reality, it’sย knitted flat on 2 needles. The swooping effect is created by leaving a few stitches on the needle. Very ingenious.
Click hereย to read the pattern online.
Remember the stacking rings that children played with years ago? MThat was the first thing I thought of when I saw this. The star motif for the pattern is the same regardless of the size. What creates the difference in the sizes of the star is how many repeats you do.
Available as a download only, You can get the pattern through Ravelry here –ย Stacking Stars
Awesomely super cute! Knit up this toque (I’m Canadian, that’s what we call these here ?) that’s sure to make all the preschoolers a little envious.
You can read the pattern in full onlineย here. There is also a PDF download but there is a fee required for that. The links to the downloads are onย the website.
Available as a PDFย download from KnitPicks, (tons of patterns there btw), I added this primarilyย because of the awwwwwww factor.
You can get the pattern here –ย Bear Washcloth
I didn’t know that a knitted pencil case was a thing until I found this. I have to admit, I like it. Available as a download only, you can find it on Ravelry here –ย The Toby Case
