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Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit

Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit cover art

I’ve been busy as of late! I’ve updated photos and rewritten a few of my fingerless glove and mitt patterns over the last few weeks to bring you yet another compilation of all my mitt and glove patterns! To date, there are a total of 9 patterns all together. All the favourites, and a couple that were so old you may not have even known they existed. For some reason, people don’t seem to like to do searches of this site or follow links. It’s weird TBH.

Currently, it is only available through retailers online. You can order a physical copy through Amazon with free shipping if you are an Amazon Prime member. As I write this I am making a selection of my publications to physical book stores. It’s a bit of a process to make this happen but hopefully 🀞🏼 I’ll get the formatting down and accepted. Marketing is pricey so I need to be selective on how I’m going to approach this. Wish me luck!

Patterns to make all of the mitts and gloves in the photos below are included with this pattern collection.

But on to my latest publication. This collection contains patterns for fingerless gloves knit flat on 2 needles and seamless gloves and mittens knit in the round on double pointed needles (DPN). This compilation also includes mitts that are specifically designed for texting. And lastly, another design to free your fingers when you need them but cover your fingers when required. In short, this collection meets all your fashion and functionality requirements.

You can purchase and print the PDF yourself if you like. It is cheaper that way, of course. You can purchase it from my website here – Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit or from my Etsy shop here – Nine Knitting Patterns! – Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Collection. Either way I would like you to know it’s 106 pages. It’s a lot to print, but if you are comfortable reading PDF’s on your table or phone, this a very economical option. You can also just print the pattern you want by selecting the pages and printing on two sides of the page, but you’ll have to know how to do this. I can’t help you because every printer has a different way of doing it.

If you want to purchase the printed book, delivered to your door for free if you’re an Amazon Prime member, please click the country you are in:

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

This publication is available in English only.

Like always, all of the patterns are free to read on this website. They are ad supported and unprintable. Sorry, but too many people were just printing the pages leaving me with nothing but a bill for web hosting costs. You may not realize this, but with each illegal print, you cost me advertising revenue. I am writing patterns to help support me and my family, not charity. I can only give so much folks!

The list of the patterns in this collection include the following (all titles are clickable links to the pattern btw):

Super Simple Fingerless Gloves
Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!
Basic Long Fingerless Gloves
Cable Fingerless Gloves or Mitts
Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves
Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts
Arm Warmers or Gloves – with BOWS!

I’ve also organized it so there is a specific page with all of the glove and mitten patterns in one place. You can see that here: Fingerless Gloves and Flip Mitts – FREE Knitting Patterns

I hope to keep you all informed of my progress with getting my patterns in real stores. The potential is there and I’m really excited where this next stage of my pattern writing journey takes me.

Happy knitting everyone!!!

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How to Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves

Free knitting pattern - flip mitts

Make yourself a nifty pair of flip mitts. They’re hip, trendy and handier than a pocket on a shirt! Not only can you make these super awesome mitts for just about anyone from teen to adult, but you can forgo the finger portion and make some cool fingerless gloves. Technically, they’re fingerless mittens but that just sounds weird.

They’re knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. You’ll need to know how to knit to make this project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.

The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand, medium is an average lady’s hand, large is for an average man’s hand, and extra large will fit a very large man’s hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each. Keep scrolling to read how to make the finger flap. Sorry, this pattern is a bit of a mammoth 😏



If you would prefer, you can also download this pattern to any device such as a smartphone, computer or tablet. The PDF of this pattern is available on my website here:Β Knitted Flip Mitts and Fingerless Gloves. It will be available in all my retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy and Lovecraft’s. I’m also working on a compilation of all my glove and mitten patterns that will be a book on Amazon.

Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Support my work on patreon
Click this πŸ‘†πŸΌπŸ‘†πŸΌ

Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 5 mm (US size 8) double pointed needles (or whatever size needles you need to get the correct gauge).

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastener (AKA – Velcro*)

Permanent glue

Gauge

18 stitches = 4 inches

24 rows = 4 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 28 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. K26.

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, K26.

Round 35 – 37: Knit

Round 38 – 42: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 12: Knit

Round 13: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 14: Knit

Pull yarn through.

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Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. K30.

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, K30.

Round 38 – 40: Knit

Round 41 – 45: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 13: Knit

Round 14: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 15: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 37 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. K34.

Round 40: K1, pick up a st, K34.

Round 41 – 43: Knit

Round 44 – 49: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 20: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Extra Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 37-38: Knit

Round 39: K1, pick up a st, k15, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 40 – 41: Knit

Round 42: K1, place next 17 sts onto the stitch holder. K38.

Round 43: K1, pick up a st, K38.

Round 44 – 46: Knit

Round 47 – 52: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 17 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 17 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 22: Knit

Pull yarn through.

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Finger Flap

Instructions are written for small (medium, large, extra large)

Cast on 32 (36, 40, 44) loosely.

Round 1 – 6: K2 P2

Round 7 and on: Knit around until work measures 3 (3.5, 4, 4.5) inches from the cast on edge.

Next round: K1 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2 tog K2 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2 tog K2 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2 tog K2 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2 tog K2 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the thumb is along the edge of fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Graft Fingertips

The divided stitches will look something like this:

How to graft stitches knitting

With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.

Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.

🌺 Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.

Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. 🌺

Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 until there are no stitches left on either needle.

 Pull the yarn tight.

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the back of the mitten first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the finger flap back (off the fingers). Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.

How to Pick Up a Stitch

I use this method to increase a stitch or pick up a stitch because it doesn’t leave a hole in your work. It takes a little longer to do but worth the effort in the final piece.

Make the stitch in the yarn stretched between two stitches.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Pick the yarn up with the needle.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Transfer the stitch onto the opposite needle.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Knit this newly formed stitch. You may have to pull the yarn forward a bit to get your needle beneath the yarn.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

It automatically twists the stitch eliminating the hole.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb or finger flap, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.

Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.

Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be 😎

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FREE Knitting Pattern – How to Knit Texting Mittens

How to Knit Texting Mitts - Knitting Pattern

Improve your texting in cold climates with these thumbless mittens. More than just a pair of fingerless gloves, these keep your hands warm and only expose your thumbs when needed. The thumb pocket is sewn on and the flap is secured at the base of the palm with Velcro* for easy access. The flap hangs in the back out of the way to enable your texting abilities. Plan on using your thumbs for a while? Then simply tuck the flap into the thumb pocket.

The sizes are each written separately as each size is a bit different in row and stitch counts. Scroll down this post to the size you would like to make. Medium fits the average lady’s hand, large for men, and small for pre-teens.

Don’t forget to share this post!

Don’t want to come back here to read the pattern? You can download the pattern to your tablet, phone or computer from my website atΒ Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts. You can also get it from other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrafts. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to the site yet. It will be ASAP.

If you enjoy this and my other free knitting and crochet patterns, please Help Support My Work. It doesn’t have to be financial, though that’s always appreciated. Every like, share and follow also helps me keep this website running.

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my

Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball ofΒ worsted weight yarnΒ will be more than enough)

Size 4.5 mm double pointed needles

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastener (AKA – Velcro)

Glue

Gauge

10 stitches = 2 inches

13 rows = 2 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts.. There should be 31 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 35 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 31 sts until work measures approximately 3.5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K10 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K6, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (if you scroll to the end of the post there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Working over the 3 sts you just cast on, K3. Leave these 3 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Transfer these 3 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 25: Knit

Round 28: K2tog, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2tog, K1 .

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog four times

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

More of my stuff on Etsy


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
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Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 35 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 38 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 35 sts until work measures approximately 4 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K12 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 38 – 39: Knit

Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 39 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 41 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 39 sts until work measures approximately 5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K14 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K13, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K12, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 8: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: K1, pick up a st, K5, pick up a st, K1. (9 sts)

Row 16: Purl

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: Purl

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Purl

Row 21: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 9 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 22 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 4 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 40: Knit

Round 41: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K1, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.If you are unfamiliar with how to end the fingertips on mittens (this works for socks as well), I’ve added a picture tutorial at the end of another pattern. Instead of me adding all the photos and instructions again, here’s the link to learn how – 
How to Graft Fingertips

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Thumb Flap

With the yarn left from where you continued the thumb, attach the thumb flap to the mitten. Make sure that you attach the thumb flap to the back side of the left and right mittens accordingly. Easiest way is to lay the mitts flat with the thumbs pointing in opposite directions.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro that will fit on the base of the thumb flap. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the THUMB FLAP first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the thumb flap forward in the toasty warm thumb position. With the Velcro still together, place the Velcro where the bottom of the flap touches the palm of the mitten. Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.Like grafting the fingertips, I’ve also shown how to pick up a stitch without leaving a hole. If you’d like to see how it’s done, here’s the link to learn how – How to Pick up a Stitch

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

Make sure when attaching the Velcro to the thumb flap, that the fuzzy half of the Velcro is what you use for the flap. In other words, which ever side feels less rough. The other pokey side should go on the palm of the mitt. That way the Velcro won’t stick to the inside of the thumb flap when folded back into itself.

When picking up stitches to finish the thumb on the mitt, leave a long piece of yarn to sew on the thumb flap. This saves on the number of ends to sew in when you’re done.

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

*Velcro is a registered trademark.

Posted on 3 Comments

How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves - FREE Knitting Pattern

Made with large needles, these fingerless gloves are super fast to make if you know how to knit in the round. And really, knitting in the round isn’t difficult. But damn, it does look impressive when you’re knitting something using four needles. Not gonna lie. But with saying that, if you would prefer to knit this pattern flat on two needles like my Super Simple Fingerless Gloves or my Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves, please leave a comment at the end of this pattern.

But I digress. There are two styles you can make with this pattern. One has a plain cuff. The other has a double cuff. Both allow for your creativity to shine with yarn choice.

Because they are such a plain design, you can use any variety of colours to make these look awesome. Dare I say my favourite – variegated yarn – did wonders here… I really like how the splotching effect worked for the double cuff and how random the colours appeared when making the plain purl cuff with the beginning purl round.


These also are a great stash buster. You can use up the smaller quantities of yarn from other projects to make stripes. I used the self-striping yarn available at one of the big box craft stores to make my striped version. Be warned though. Not all self-striping yarn will work for this. It needs to be smaller sections of striping than most of the self striping yarn out there. If it makes for a great ombre shall or blanket, the striping is too wide.

As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here – How to Knit Basic Long Fingerless Gloves. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts, Etsy and Ravelry. Depending on how long ago I published this, the printable pattern may appear below.

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work… https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Support my work on patreon
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If you want them longer, you can add more rows between the decrease rows. So instead of 6 rows, you could do 8 or more. If you want them to go further up the arm, cast on more when starting. Multiples of four stitches seem to work out quite nicely and let you maintain the ribbing at the fingers. I do recommend that you decrease stitches down to what’s written for the various sizes. It keeps it from getting sloppy, and dare I say annoying, when they don’t fit properly at the hand.

Knitting 2 together, or the decreases, do form a bit of a seam. To keep this out of view and make it run less noticeably down the inside of the arm, the pattern is designed so the thumb hole is on either side of this seam for the left and right hand.

What style would you like to make?

Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing.

2β€³ (5 cm) – 8 sts

2β€³ (5 cm) – 11 rows

in stockinette


Things You Need:

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Set of 4 size 9 US (5.5 mm) double pointed knitting needles (DPN)

Worsted weight yarn

Tapestry needle


Left Hand (Plain Cuff)

Cast on 28 (32, 36)

Round 1 – 6: Purl around

Round 7 – 19: Knit around

Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.

Round 21 – 26: Knit around

Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.

Round 28 – 33: Knit around

Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.

Round 35 – 40: Knit around

Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.

Round 42 – 47: Knit around

Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.

Round 49 – 54: Knit around

Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.

Round 56 – 67: Knit around

Round 68: Knit 2 (4,6). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round

Round 69: Knit 2 (4, 6). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).

Round 70 – 74: P1 K1 around.

Cast off.

Right Hand (Plain Cuff)

Cast on 28 (32, 36)

Round 1 – 6: Purl around

Round 7 – 19: Knit around

Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.

Round 21 – 26: Knit around

Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.

Round 28 – 33: Knit around

Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.

Round 35 – 40: Knit around

Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.

Round 42 – 47: Knit around

Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.

Round 49 – 54: Knit around

Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.

Round 56 – 67: Knit around

Round 68: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round

Round 69: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).

Round 70 – 74: K1 P1 around.

Cast off.

More of my stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Left Hand (Double Cuff)

Cast on 28 (32, 36)

Round 1 – 6: Purl around

Round 7 – 15: Knit around (If you are going to change the colour of the yarn for the purl rows, knit round 15 with the new colour).

Round 16 – 19: Purl around

Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.

Round 21 – 26: Knit around

Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.

Round 28 – 33: Knit around

Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.

Round 35 – 40: Knit around

Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.

Round 42 – 47: Knit around

Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.

Round 49 – 54: Knit around

Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.

Round 56 – 67: Knit around

Round 68: Knit 2 (4,6). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round

Round 69: Knit 2 (4, 6). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).

Round 70 – 74: P1 K1 around.

Cast off.

Right Hand (Double Cuff)

Cast on 28 (32, 36)

Round 1 – 6: Purl around

Round 7 – 15: Knit around (If you are going to change the colour of the yarn for the purl rows, knit round 15 with the new colour).

Round 16 – 19: Purl around

Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.

Round 21 – 26: Knit around

Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.

Round 28 – 33: Knit around

Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.

Round 35 – 40: Knit around

Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.

Round 42 – 47: Knit around

Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.

Round 49 – 54: Knit around

Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.

Round 56 – 67: Knit around

Round 68: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round

Round 69: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).

Round 70 – 74: K1 P1 around.

Cast off.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. πŸ‘ˆπŸ½ That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – Knit 2 together

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away anything that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.

Posted on 6 Comments

Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

2 needle owl gloves

Well, since the how-to video showing how to knit these gloves in the round went over like a lead balloon, I’ve put in the effort and redesigned the gloves so they can be knit flat on 2 needles. Perfect for a newbie knitter wanting to learn new techniques! In case you still want to learn how to knit in the round or want the seamless version, you can read the pattern here – How to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. The video is embedded on that page too, if you want to watch it.

If you are looking to knit a pair of plain gloves without the owls, the original version this pattern is available here – Super Simple Fingerless Gloves. It’s also knitted flat on 2 needles with a seam on the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb.

Once again, I’ve made the gloves as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.


I am finished creating the downloadable pdf for this pattern and it’s available in all my usual online selling venues including Ravelry, Etsy, and this website – Super Easy to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS! Click any of those links to avoid the ads and purchase it for a nominal fee.

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Support my work on patreon
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I’ve also created videos for you to see how the stitches are done, if any of them are giving you problems. I do have all the basic stitch videos here – Learn Basic Knitting Stitches, but links to the slightly more advanced stitches that show you how to M1, PM1, C4F and C4B are provided on this page. Clicking the links will take you to the video, but will leave this page window open in your browser. You can also scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the stitch abbreviations that also contain the embedded video you can watch right from this page.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. πŸ‘ˆπŸ½ That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.


Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles.

2β€³ (5 cm) = 10 sts

2β€³ (5 cm) – 16 rows

in stockinette

Things You Need:

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 8 US (5mm) knitting needles

Worsted weight yarn

Cable Needle – There are a number a styles but I prefer the hook version

Stitch holder β€“ It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle


Left Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 21: K13 M1 K1 M1 K4 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 22: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 23: K20 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 24: P5 K1 P8 K1 P4 PM1 P3 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 25: K22 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 26: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 27: K13 M1 K5 M1 K4 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 28: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 29: K24 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 30: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P4 PM1 P7 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 31: K26 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 32: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 33: K13 M1 K9 M1 K4 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 34: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 35: K28 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 36: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P4 PM1 P11 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 37: K30 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 38: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 39: K13 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K4 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 40: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 41: K17 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 42: P5 K10 P to the end of the row

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-50: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

More of my stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Right Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: P18 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 21: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K4 M1 K1 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 22: P20 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 23: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 24: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P4 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 25: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 26: P22 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 27: K5 P1 K8 P1 K4 M1 K5 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 28: P24 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 29: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 30: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 31: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 32: P26 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 33: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 M1 K9 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 34: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 35: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 36: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 37: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 38: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 39: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K to the end of the row

Row 40: P17 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 41: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 42: P17 K10 P to the end of the row

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-50: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

You can make these gloves with a ribbed cuff and around the fingers like the original Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can easily do a K1 P1 ribbing to make that happen.

Abbreviation

K – knit

P – purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.

M1 or Make 1 – Increase between stitches when knitting.

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would.

PM1 or Purl Make 1 – Increase between stitches when purling.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4F or Cable 4 Forward

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B or Cable 4 Back
Posted on

Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

Simple Knit Fingerless Gloves

Are you just learning to knit? Tired of making dishcloths and scarves and want to make something awesome? Here is something that will make you look like a pro when it comes to knitting. A total brag-worthy design that any knitting newbie can make.

I’ve written a bunch of beginner patterns for slippers, but never for fingerless gloves. It was a common request, but for some reason, I never felt compelled to do so. After a bit of false starts and redesigns, I’ve finally come up with a fingerless glove pattern that I am happy with. I’ve kept the seams to a minimum and placed the seam along the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb. If you’re not a fan of seams my other fingerless gloves and mitts knitted on dpn can be found here – Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS, How to Knit Texting Mittens, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves and How to Knit Flip Mitts.

These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches. If you need help with increasing stitches, there is a video showing how to increase when making the P1 and the M1.I also just made a video showing How to Use a Stitch Holder. You can click those links to watch the how-to videos. They are also embedded at the end of this page. Scroll to the bottom to watch.

I’ve also jazzed up this basic design a bit. If you want to knit owl gloves flat on 2 needles just like this pattern is, You can use this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to read the free knitting pattern online.

I’ve also written the pattern to fit different sizes – small, medium and large. Once again I’ll use the analogy of what fits my hand. I wear a medium rubber glove and the medium size fits my hand perfectly. I wash dishes and scrub my toilets. I wear gloves when I do. If you never wear rubber or latex gloves, this won’t make any sense to you, I guess. I’m only saying this because I have had complaints about my sizing references. I don’t live in a gloveless kind of world but I’m glad some people do. It always amazes me what some “Karens” feel the need to bitch about πŸ™„ If you want to go to a specific size you can try these links. If I’ve done my code correctly, it should take you to the right point on the webpage:

Small

Medium

Large

I’ve made a PDF download for this pattern. I didn’t think it was going to be this long until I wrote it out. I made the decision to write each size and hand out separately to make it even easier for the new knitters out there who want to give this pattern a go. And btw, you can totally do it! To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and from this website – KweenBee.com.

If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. Available in English only.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…

Support my work on patreon
Click this πŸ‘†πŸΌπŸ‘†πŸΌ

I also plan on making a how-to video for this. It will cover the medium size as that’s what most people order when I sell online. I always am hopeful I’ll get the videos done in a timely manner, but they’re always more work than I think they’re going to be. You can check out my other videos in the meantime with this handy link – KweenBee on YouTube – Janis Frank

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clocking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. πŸ‘ˆπŸ½ That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.



Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing.

2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts

2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows

Things You Need:

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Worsted weight yarn

Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop


Small

Right Hand

Cast on 31

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K18 M1 K1 M1 K12

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P12 PM1 P3 PM1 P18

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K18 M1 K5 M1 K12

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P12 PM1 P7 PM1 P18

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K18 M1 K9 M1 K12

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: K18. Slip the next 11 stitches onto a stitch holder. K12.

Row 38: Purl across

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41-48: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 11 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 31

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K12 M1 K1 M1 K18

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P18 PM1 P3 PM1 P12

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K12 M1 K5 M1 K18

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P18 PM1 P7 PM1 P12

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K12 M1 K9 M1 K18

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: K12. Slip the next 11 stitches onto a stitch holder. K18.

Row 38: Purl across

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41-48: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 11 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

My stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Medium

Right Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K19 M1 K1 M1 K13

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P19

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K19 M1 K5 M1 K13

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P19

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K19 M1 K9 M1 K13

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P19

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K19. Slip the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K13.

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-52: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K13 M1 K1 M1 K19

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P19 PM1 P3 PM1 P13

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K13 M1 K5 M1 K19

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P19 PM1 P7 PM1 P13

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K13 M1 K9 M1 K19

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P19 PM1 P11 PM1 P13

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K13. Slip the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K19.

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-52: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Large

Right Hand

Cast on 35

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K20 M1 K1 M1 K14

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P14 PM1 P3 PM1 P20

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K20 M1 K5 M1 K14

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P14 PM1 P7 PM1 P20

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K20 M1 K9 M1 K14

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P14 PM1 P11 PM1 P20

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K20 M1 13 M1 K14

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: K20. Slip the next 15 stitches onto a stitch holder. K14.

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45: Knit across

Row 46: Purl across

Row 47-54: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 15 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 35

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K14 M1 K1 M1 K20

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P20 PM1 P3 PM1 P14

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K14 M1 K5 M1 K20

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P20 PM1 P7 PM1 P14

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K14 M1 K9 M1 K20

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P20 PM1 P11 PM1 P14

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K14 M1 13 M1 K20

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: K14. Slip the next 15 stitches onto a stitch holder. K20.

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45: Knit across

Row 46: Purl across

Row 47-54: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 15 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

The purple fingerless mitts have 60 rows total between the garter stitch cuff and the start of the thumb gusset (Row 15 – 22). I don’t think I would increase much further than that. The glove itself isn’t very stretchy and won’t fit further up the forearm. Too much bunching may also make the glove push its way further down and off the fingers.

I used some self-striping yarn to make these. Not all striping yarn is created equal. Some of them are designed to stripe for larger projects and don’t really work for smaller projects like this. Though with saying that, you could always cut the yarn and start a new colour where you choose. You will have more ends to deal with, but I have a post that shows you How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. πŸ‘ˆπŸ½ This link will take you right there.

Abbreviation

K – knit

P – purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.

How to make one or M1 – Increase between stitches.

PM1- Make one (purl wise). Pick up the stitch as you did for M1, but purl the stitch as you regularly would. You can watch the video below.

And for those of you who are unsure of how to use a stitch holder, I made a quick little video that shows you how to do it without cutting the yarn. It’s a time saver for sure. No one likes working in ends if they can avoid it.

Posted on 1 Comment

FREE Knitting Pattern – Cable Fingerless Gloves

Cable Fingerless Gloves

The season is getting colder again, the few apples on my trees are turning red and my mind turns back towards knitting. And oh boy, am I coming up with a bunch of knitting designs! Now here’s to finding the time to publish them all. Work is also back to full-time so that’s great news 😊

A couple of things about this knitting pattern before we grab our favourite worsted weight yarn, double pointed and cable needles and get to work. Like my Owl Fingerless Gloves pattern, I am keeping the stitch count the same and only changing the needles size to change the size of the glove. The pattern on the back of the hand stays proportional in size and placement on the glove remains the same for a better overall look.


I made a number of different lengths of the glove too, for demonstrative purposes. The taupe with flecks (apparently it’s also known as tweed, who knew) is the pattern exactly as written. I repeated the cable pattern once for the grey pair and 4 times for the purple tweed/flecked. There’s a note in the pattern what rows make up the 5 plait cable pattern. Why do 3 cables when you can do 5? I’ve always been a bit of an overachiever πŸ˜‰

The downloadable PDF version is completed and uploaded it to all my distributors. You can find it on the following fine and upstanding websites – Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and this website.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…

Support my work on patreon
Click this πŸ‘†πŸΌπŸ‘†πŸΌπŸ‘†πŸΌ

And here is the obligatory, shameless self promotion of this website so I have some reason to keep writing patterns. You can check out my Help Support My Work page to read more or you can click this link to Buy Me a Coffee. It’s a place where artists, podcasters and other creatives can go to get a quick, one time donation of support from fans. It’s pretty awesome and I’m always grateful for everything I get.

If you don’t want or can’t afford to give anything. I get it. You can give a shoutout or share on your social media instead. It’s free to do and will only take you a minute. Handy links are below πŸ‘‡πŸ½πŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸ½πŸ‘‡πŸΌ


Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I also have – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It is very plain Jane and it’s the yarn that makes this one pop.

Ok. Enough of that. Let’s get knitting!!!

Things you will need:

worsted weight yarn – I used Red Heart worsted weight (AKA size 4 or 8 ply) yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

Cable needle


This is the brand of yarn I like to use. I’m sure you can find it cheaper than this, but I wanted to show you which one it was. It’s very popular for slippers and other stuff I sell. Just saying’.

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

A Note on Sizing:

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Left Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1-8: K1 P1 around

Row 9: K4 P1 K15 P1 K15

Row 10: K4 P1 C6F twice. K3 P1 K15 (you can click the blue link for a description of how to do a C6F or scroll to the abbreviations section)

Row 11 – 12: as row 9

Row 13: K4 P1 K3 C6B twice. P1 K15 (you can click the blue link for a description of how to do a C6B or scroll to the abbreviations section)

Row 14 – 15: as row 9

Rows 10 to 15 make the cable pattern. Repeat these rows to make the gloves longer as described earlier.

Next Row: K1 M1 K1 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (38 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K6 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K3 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (40 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K8 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K5 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (42 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K10 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K7 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (44 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K12 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K9 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (46 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K14 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K11 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (48 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K16 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (35 sts)

Next Row: K3 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog

Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.


More knitting patterns you may like:



Right Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1-8: K1 P1 around

Row 9: K18 P1 K15 P1 K1

Row 10: K18 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1

Row 11 – 12: as row 9

Row 13: K18 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1

Row 14 – 15: as row 9

Rows 10 to 15 make the cable pattern. Repeat these rows to make the gloves longer as described earlier.

Next Row: K1 M1 K1 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (38 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K20 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K3 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (40 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K22 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K5 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (42 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K24 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K7 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (44 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K26 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K9 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (46 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K28 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K11 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (48 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K30 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (35 sts)

Next Row: K17 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog

Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Hints and Tips

If you have too many stitches double check to make sure you haven’t picked up a stitch between the needles. If you don’t have enough stitches, did you drop one when you were making the cable? Yes, I do make typos sometimes but I double check and recheck before I publish these patterns and it is more likely you’ve made a slight error while knitting. I’ve given stitch counts at the end of every row to help you along. Please let me know if I legitly did make a mistake. But with saying that, it isn’t always my fault. Some of you get kinda nasty about this and you really need to stop. Here’s the email so you can complain to my manager if that last bit offended you – stfu@email.com. FYI Karens – I am the manager and that email address doesn’t work.

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the cable motif with one needle having 15 stitches. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the cable.

If you like your ribbing to be a little more snug, you can use a smaller size needles to knit this portion. Stepping it down a half size; small – 3.5 mm, medium – 4.5 mm and large 5.5 mm should work. You may want to go smaller. I don’t do this because I always forget to switch back.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section if it works. It’s been acting up since I switched hosting plans. Sorry.

Abbreviations:

C6F – Cable 6 forward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. 

C6B – Cable 6 backward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. 

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

P2tog – Purl 2 together

Well, that wraps up this knitting pattern. I hope you liked it, have a lot of fun with it, and maybe even make a bit of money from what you make. Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any gloves/mitts that you make from this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reproduce or republish this pattern in any form. Whether it be illegal screen shots of this page, a copy you print from this webpage, or multiple copies of the ONE pattern you paid for and subsequently give to your friends. Yes. All of those behaviours violate copyright laws. And every time you do that, it makes one less pair of eyeballs on my work that takes away from any ad revenue or other profits I may make from my hard efforts in designing and writing these patterns. I don’t work for free. I’m sure you don’t either.

Posted on

How to Knit Fingerless Arm Warmers or Mitts – with Bows!

Blue bow fingerless mitts

Knit a fabulous pair of fingerless gloves or mitts with the cutest little bows flowing down the length of your arm and back of your hand. Create the bows as you go; I have pics to show you how. Make them as long or as short as you like. It really depends on how much you like knitting in the round on double pointed needles (DPN).

Don’t want to read this online and avoid the ads. You can download this pattern for 99Β’ directly from this website here – How to Knit Fingerless Arm Warmers or Gloves – with Bows! I can now process credit and debit cards right here on the website. Not cool with that? You can also download the pattern through Ravelry, Etsy and other retailers.

Over the years, I’ve designed a number of other knitted mitten and fingerless glove patterns. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves (uses a DK or 3 yarn) and my most popular so far Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can click any of those links to read the patterns online.


Like the owl motif, I have a love affair going on with these bows. So far, I’ve incorporated it into slippers and a dishcloth, both of which are available to read right here on my website for free (that’s right, give those links a click). They are also downloadable in a number of online retailers such as RaverlyEtsyGoogle Books and Amazon for a minimal cost. If you’re not a fan of intro blog blather or ads, you can also download this pattern at any of those fine retailers.

A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes and having the bows remain centered, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These mitts knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for the left hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.

If you’re running into problems with this knitting pattern or have a question, scroll down to the Hints and Tips section at the bottom of the post. I think I’ve pretty much answered everything. You can also click the link above to take you right there. If there are additional questions, they’ll pop up in the comments over time which are at the bottom of the page.

Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these links below πŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌ and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too. Also, please visit the sponsors on this website. Making purchases through Amazon and visiting the other sponsors grants me a small “finder’s fee” for sending you to their website.

Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your printable PDF copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost of 99Β’. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.

Things You Will Need

worsted weight yarn (any standard ball will be more than enough to make the shorter, hand only version. You’ll need more if you are making them longer. For example, I used less than a 100 gr or 3.5 oz ball to make the long green gloves in size medium.)

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder to hold stitches for the thumb

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

A Note on Sizing

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

Like most things I knit, I use myself for standard sizing. To give you an idea of fit, I wear a medium sized latex glove. The medium size bow glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Left Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.

Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around

Rounds 8 – 9: K around

πŸ‹ Round 10: K8 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19.

Making the strand. Notice that the stitches passed over are spread apart and not bunched together.
Making the strand - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
Strand complete. Note the slack of the strand.

Round 11: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 12: As round 10

Round 13: As round 11

Round 14: As round 10

Round 15: As round 11

Round 16: As round 10

Round 17: As round 11

Round 18: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up

Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
Four strands on the working needle

And knit the next stitch.

Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
Four strands and about to knit the stitch

Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed).

Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
Pull the yarn down beneath the strands as shown
Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
All strands caught by the knit stitch
Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
The bow once the other 3 stitches are knitted

K3 P1 K19

Round 18 written without photos: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19

Round 19: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19 πŸ‹

Repeat from πŸ‹ to πŸ‹ if you would like a longer length of glove. Each πŸ‹ to πŸ‹ repeat makes 1 bow motif.

Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19

Round 21: K to the P P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 22: K to the P P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19

Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 24: As round 22

Round 25: As round 21

Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19

Round 27: As round 21

Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19

Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 30: As round 22

Round 31: As round 21

Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19

Round 33: As round 21

Round 34: As round 22

Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 36: As round 22

Round 37: As round 21

Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K6 P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19

Round 39: As round 21

Rounds 40 – 41: K around

Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in lat stitch.

Round 43 – 46: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.

Blue bow fingerless mitts
Blue bow fingerless mitts

Right Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.

Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around

Rounds 8 – 9: K around

🐌 Round 10: K22 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5.

Round 11: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 12: As round 10

Round 13: As round 11

Round 14: As round 10

Round 15: As round 11

Round 16: As round 10

Round 17: As round 11

Round 18: K22 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5

Round 19: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5 πŸŒ

Repeat from πŸŒ to πŸŒ if you would like a longer length of glove. Each πŸŒ to πŸŒ repeat makes 1 bow motif.

Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5

Round 21: K to the P. P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 22: K to the P. P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5

Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 24: As round 22

Round 25: As round 21

Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5

Round 27: As round 21

Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5

Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 30: As round 22

Round 31: As round 21

Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5

Round 33: As round 21

Round 34: As round 22

Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 36: As round 22

Round 37: As round 21

Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K to the P. P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5

Round 39: As round 21

Rounds 40 – 41: K around

Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in last stitch.

Round 43 – 46: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely.

Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Hints and Tips

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Spread the 7 passed stitches apart to allow for some slack in the strand. If you don’t the bows will pucker. I usually spread them as far apart as they will go and stay in a relaxed position.

A quick note on making them longer into arm warmers. The green arm warmers repeat the bow section 4 more times than what is written. As it is written you get the short gloves with 3 bow motifs. The final length is about 25 cm or 9.5 inches long. Depending on the circumference of the arm you may need to add and cast on more stitches. This is where having the bows staying centred gets difficult. I can’t really help you with that. It’s a bunch of additional math, frustration and trial and error I really don’t want to get into. Sorry.

Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between 2 knit stitches before the purl at the start of the bow motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the bow and lessens the chances of dropping or adding a stitch when switching between working needles.

When you are done making the bows, they may pull a bit weirdly on one side. Simply put your needle beneath the 4 strands and give a bit of a tug up away from the mitt on both sides. That is enough to straighten and even them out.

If you’ve gained a stitch, check to see that you haven’t picked up a stitch between your needles. This is very easy to do and I even do it on occasion. When switching between needles the yarn will catch on the needle, not falling in behind again like it should. If you’re a little distracted, you’ll knit this new “stitch”, gaining an extra stitch on the next round.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn (DK or 3 perhaps) can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.

Abbreviations:

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

K2tog – Knit 2 together

I’m going to repeat this statement just in case you missed it earlier…

Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost of 99Β’. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.

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How to Knit Fingerless Gloves

Hand knit fingerless gloves

I’m not sure if this happens to anyone else, but I found some fantastic yarn on clearance that I absolutely had to have. Of course, I had no idea what to do with it. Then I got on my fingerless glove kick. I have written other patterns in the past such as my Owl Fingerless Gloves, Flip Mitts, and Texting Mitts, but they were all made with standard worsted weight yarn. The yarn I couldn’t leave behind was light weight; 3 as by North American terminology. So, a redesign of my gloves was in order! I absolutely love that these are a lighter, more delicate version of my previous patterns. AND I can use colour changing yarn and it works! If this is your first time using one of my patterns, I kinda got a thing for shaded yarns…just sayin’.

And if you were looking to buy a pair of these beauties but accidentally wound up here, click this link Hand Knit Fingerless Gloves and you can purchase a finished pair from my website. Or if you prefer to order through Etsy, you can get them there too – Fingerless Gloves by KweenBee on Etsy.


Like my other fingerless mitts, these are knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. This is definitely not a beginner’s knitting project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.

How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves - FREE Knitting Pattern
Plain Cuff Fingerless Gloves

If you are looking to make a pair of longer fingerless mitts, I can help you with that too! The striped fingerless glove pattern is basically the same as this one, but I’ve worked out the decreases to make them go all the way up to the elbow. You can click this link (or the photos) to read the pattern online.

And they don’t need to be striped. For the pair in the photo I used self-striping yarn so no ends to work in. But you can also make a more plain style like the green ones.

How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves - FREE Knitting Pattern

The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand. Think a younger teenager. A medium is an average lady’s hand. I’m a medium when it comes to rubber gloves and I designed the medium mitt to fit my hand. Large is for a larger size hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each.


Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media. You can use the links above to easily do so.

The PDF is also available for your viewing pleasure. If you are tired of the ad supported version, you can download the PDF for a small 99Β’ fee from my website – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves, Ravelry or Etsy. All are the same price no matter where you get it from.

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Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of light weight yarn (3 weight) will be more than enough)

Size 4 mm (US size 6) double pointed needles (or whatever size needles you need to get the correct gauge).

Stitch holder



Use a yarn like this if you want a colour change or ombre look.

Gauge

11 stitches = 2 inches

17 rows = 2 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1 purl 1 ribbing).

Round 13 – 15: Knit

Round 16: K1, M1, K1, M1, K30.

Round 17 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, M1, K3, M1, K30.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, M1, K5, M1, K30.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, M1, K7, M1, K30.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, M1, K9, M1, K30.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, M1, K11, M1, K30.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. K30.

Round 35 – 42: K around.

Round 43 – 47: K2tog, P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 3: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1, purl 1 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, M1, K1, M1, K34.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, M1, K3, M1, K34.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, M1, K5, M1, K34.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, M1, K7, M1, K34.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, M1, K9, M1, K34.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, M1, K11, M1, K34.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, M1, K13, M1,K34.

Round 38 – 39: Knit

Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. K34.

Round 41 – 49: K around.

Round 50 – 54: K2 tog. P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 3: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 18: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1, purl 1 ribbing).

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, M1, K1, M1, K38.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, M1, K3, M1, K38.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, M1, K5, M1, K38.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, M1, K7, M1, K38.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, M1, K9, M1, K38.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, M1, K11, M1, K38.

Round 37 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K1, M1, K13, M1, K38.

Round 40 – 41: Knit

Round 42: K1, M1, K15, M1,K38.

Round 43 – 44: Knit

Round 45: K1, place next 17 sts onto the stitch holder. K38.

Round 46 – 57: K around.

Round 58 – 63: K2tog, P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 17 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 17 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

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Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.

Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.

Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be 😎

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How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!

beige owl knitted fingerless gloves

Also known as fingerless mittens, I seem to have a thing going on for this awesome owl motif. If you haven’t seen them already, I also have a Knitted Owl Slipper pattern that you may like. But more about these awesome fingerless gloves… They are fairly quick to make if you’re somewhat of an experienced knitter. If you don’t know how to knit in the round on double pointed needles (dpn), you’re in luck! I rewrote the pattern so anyone who loves the knitted owl motif, but not comfortable knitting in the round can still make an awesome pair of owl fingerless gloves. The pattern is free to read online, too! Click this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to see how to knit these flat on 2 needles instead of in the round on 4.

If you’re willing to learn how to knit on 4 needles, I’ve made a step-by-step video showing you every single round. You can watch it here if you need any help along the way – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with Owls! If you scroll down the page, I’ve also embedded the video so you won’t have to leave this page.

Regardless if knitted flat or in the round, this is also a great pattern if you have a bit of left over yarn from other knitting projects. Like enough to knit one slipper, but you’re not sure if you’ll have enough to finish the whole pair. I know. We’ve all been there.

Did you wind up here looking for the finished product and not a pattern? No worries! You can buy your very own pair either from this website here – Hand Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves or in my Etsy shop.


And due to the number of folks contacting me via email and through the comments below, I am now offering a download of this pattern! I can’t give it away for free though; there is a minimal cost. You can download it directly from this site here – Owl Fingerless Gloves, or at other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts, and Google Books.

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Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes, and to keep the proportion of the knitted owls the same, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These are knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for the left hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.

Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these links below πŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌ and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too.


Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or are more plain Jane and can cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. I forgot I even had those… huh! And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I just finished another fingerless mitten pattern. It’s cleverly titled – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It also is very plain Jane and is owl free!

Things you will need:

worsted weight yarn (less than 50 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves. I know because I weighed them πŸ˜‰). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Needle and thread to sew on eyes

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

Cable needle

4 – 4 mm beads for eyes. You can use larger ones or very small buttons, too. I’m using some jewels I found and gluing them on.


This is the yarn I used for the beige owl mittens. I’m sure you can find it cheaper than this, but I wanted to show you which one it was. It’s very popular for slippers and other stuff I sell. Just saying’.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

A Note on Sizing:

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. the Grey mittens are a medium. The beige is a small if you like your gloves a bit on the snug side. I didn’t even bother trying to model the red. They were too big. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Watch the Video!

If you are having problems with a particular row, once you push play, you can scroll through the video to find the card with the row number written on it. If you watch the video on YouTube here – How to Knit Fingerless Owls Gloves or Mitts, there are time stamps for each row in the description.

Me on YouTube knitting’ it up!

Left Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely (you need to allow the ribbing to stretch)

Round 1 – 10: K1 P1

Round 11 – 13: K around

Round 14: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18 (knitted stitches between the M1’s are the thumb increase)

Round 15: K around to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 16: K around to the P. P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 17: K1 M1 K3 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 18: Repeat round 16

Round 19: Repeat round 16

Round 20: K1 M1 K5 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 21: Repeat round 16

Round 22: Repeat round 16

Round 23: K1 M1 K7 M1 K6 P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 24: K around to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 25: Repeat round 24

Round 26: K1 M1 K9 M1 K6 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 27: Repeat round 24

Round 28: Repeat round 24

Round 29: K1 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 30: Repeat round 24

Round 31: Repeat round 24

Round 32: K1 Pass the 13 stitches to the stitch holder (the thumb stitches). K to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 33: K to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 34: K to the P. P10 K 18

Round 35: K1 P1 around. P last 2 stitches together to maintain pattern.

Round 36 – 39: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely. It needs to stretch.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Right Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely (you need to allow the ribbing to stretch)

Round 1 – 10: K1 P1

Round 11 – 13: K around

Round 14: K1 M1 K1 M1. K19. P1 K8 P1 K5 (knitted stitches between the M1’s are the thumb increase)

Round 15: K around to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 16: K around to the P. P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 17: K1 M1 K3 M1 K19 P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 18: Repeat round 16

Round 19: Repeat round 16

Round 20: K1 M1 K5 M1 K19 P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 21: Repeat round 16

Round 22: Repeat round 16

Round 23: K1 M1 K7 M1 K19 P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 24: K around to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 25: Repeat round 24

Round 26: K1 M1 K9 M1 K19 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 27: Repeat round 24

Round 28: Repeat round 24

Round 29: K1 M1 K11 M1 K19 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 30: Repeat round 24

Round 31: Repeat round 24

Round 32: K1 Pass the 13 stitches to the stitch holder (the thumb stitches). K19. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 33: K to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 34: K to the P. P10 K5

Round 35: K2tog. *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * around ending with P1.

Round 36 – 39: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely. It needs to stretch.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.


Hints and Tips

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the owl motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the owl.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.

Abbreviations:

C4F – Cable 4 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. 

C4B – Cable 4 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

K2tog – Knit 2 together