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Easy To Knit Fingerless Gloves – Knit Flat On Straight Needles

Knit fingerless gloves - knit flat on straight needles

For this version of my fingerless gloves, I’m doing something different. Instead of starting at the cuff, I’m starting at the fingers and working to the cuff. Why? Because I’m starting to design gloves with 3D animals, characters, figures, designs, etc. Sometimes these figures can only be made from the bottom up and to do this, I needed to design a basic fingerless glove pattern. Because most of the figures are done with stockinette stitches, I wanted the figures to stand out even more. So, I designed the glove to be done with a garter stitch to contrast with the stockinette.

Whew! That was a lot of extra info you probably didn’t want. But now that you know the plan, you can check out my website to see when I start publishing the new gloves. It could be right away. It could be 6 months. We’ll see how it goes… (FYI I already did 😊 You can check out the hippo fingerless gloves by clicking the link – Super Cute Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mitts – FREE Knitting Pattern.

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Basic Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as RavelryLoveCrafts, and Etsy 👈🏼 (40% off on Etsy until the end of March). The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. If a link isn’t working I either haven’t formatted and published it on that retailer, I am waiting for approval, or I forgot to come back and add the link.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.

Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. The seam runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches. 

Things You Need

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.

Size 4 mm (size 6 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Gauge

In garter stitch

20 rows = 5 cm or 2.5 inches

9 sts = 5 cm or 2.5 inches

To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). I don’t usually design extra large gloves, but you’re smart. You can extrapolate from the sizes I’ve given. Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.

hand sizing for knitting

RIGHT Hand 

Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1. 

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K12 (14, 16, 18) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts. Click this link if you need help with casting on.

Row 14 – 16: Knit across

Row 17: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K9 (9, 11, 11,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 42 (45, 50, 53) sts

Row 18 – 20: Knit across

Row 21: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K7 (7, 9, 9,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 40 (43, 48, 51) sts

Row 22 – 24: Knit across

Row 25: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K5 (5, 7, 7,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 38 (41, 46, 49) sts

Row 26 – 28: Knit across

Row 29: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K3 (3, 5, 5,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 36 (39, 44, 47) sts 

Row 30 – 32: Knit across

Row 33: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K1 (1, 3, 3,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 42, 45) sts  

Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥

Row 34 – 36: Knit across

For the LARGE and X-LARGE 

Next row: K0 (0, 16, 18) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts  ) 

♥ Next 13 rows: K across

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

With the RIGHT side facing

Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat for a total of 10 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch the video below or click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

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LEFT Hand 

Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K19 (20, 21, 22) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts Click this link if you need help with casting on.

Row 14 – 16: Knit across

Row 17: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K9 (9, 11, 11,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 42 (45, 50, 53) sts

Row 18 – 20: Knit across

Row 21: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K7 (7, 9, 9,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 40 (43, 48, 51) sts

Row 22 – 24: Knit across

Row 25: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K5 (5, 7, 7,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 38 (41, 46, 49) sts

Row 26 – 28: Knit across

Row 29: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K3 (3, 5, 5,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 36 (39, 44, 47) sts 

Row 30 – 32: Knit across

Row 33: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K1 (1, 3, 3,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 42, 45) sts  

Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥

Row 34 – 36: Knit across

For the LARGE and X-LARGE 

Next row: K0 (0, 21, 22) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts  ) 

♥ Next 13 rows: K across

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

With the RIGHT side facing 

Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat for a total of 10 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

Hints and Tips

If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥  If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.

If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are don with the  K1 P2 ribbing sections.

You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.

Watch the Helpful Video

If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.  

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Super Cute Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mitts – FREE Knitting Pattern

Hippo fingerless mittens - free knitting pattern

I originally started this 3D animal adventure with my very popular owl gloves (both knit flat and knit in the round. Those are clickable links btw ☺) It then progressed on to my Spider Gloves and Autumn Leaf Gloves. I wanted to make a cat sitting down on a pair of fingerless mitts. Well, that didn’t turn out as expected but it is how these hippo gloves came to be. I’m still working on the cat gloves…

When making these, I realized that I couldn’t make it in the traditional way by starting at the cuff and working my way to the fingers. I had to go the opposite way to be able to make the arms, legs, body, head and ears. No problem. I rewrote the basic glove pattern. That’s over on Amazon as an exclusive. It will be put on my website eventually so check out this website to see if it’s here at KweenBee.com.

If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mittens, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Google Books, CreativeFabrica and the Kindle and paperback version are both available on Amazon. This is linked to the USA version. If you’re from anther country make sure you switch over to where you live.

Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. Because it is knit flat there is a seam that runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches. And also, the hippo will never fall off. It’s made as you make the glove by going back and forth and making formed bobbles. Other than the thumb, this is made in one piece. 

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

0.27 inch (7mm) wiggle eyes or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizing

Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the hippo the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.

To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.

hand sizing for knitting

PLEASE Note!

I’ve added photos in the rows of the pattern that have trickier parts like making the bobbles, belly and decreases. If you are a seasoned knitter and don’t need the photos, I’ve written out the rows again without the photos. Regardless…you only need to knit each row once!

RIGHT Hand

Cast on 34

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change colours, do so now.)

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts. K20. (47 sts) If you need help with casting on you can watch this video.

Row 14: Knit across

Row 15 (Feet): K35 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn).

3 sts in one st
Turn and purl


Done working the rows
Knit 3 sts together from  RIGHT to LEFT
Stitch completed

K2,

Next 2 sts knitted and going to make another bobble.

Bobble 3 (as before),

Knit the 2 sts together in this bobble from LEFT to RIGHT
2nd bobble done

K8.

***Row 15 repeated without the photos***

Row 15 (Feet): K35 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOTturn). K2, Bobble 3 (as before), K8.

Row 16: K8 P4 K35

Row 17 (Belly): K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K9. (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches,

6 sts in 2 sts

P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, 

Increased to 8 sts

P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. 

Repeated rows for bottom of the belly done. 

Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9. (51 sts)

Row 17 completed (for left hand)

***Row 17 repeated without the photos***

Row 17 (Belly): K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K9. (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9. (51 sts)

Row 18: K9 P8 K34

Row 19: K across

Row 20: K9 P8 K34

Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.)

Insert your needle as if to knit
Place the loop on your working needle and twist
Place the st back on your non-working needle
Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT.

There is a video I made for another pattern that shows how to twist the stitch to get the nice edge. 

K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right as you normally would.), K9. (47 sts)

***Row 21 repeated without the photos***

Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right as you normally would.), K9. (47 sts)

Row 22: K9 P6 K32

Row 23 (Arms): K31 Bobble 3, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K2, K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), Bobble 3, K8. (45 sts)

Row 24: K9, P4 K32

Row 25 (Neck): K14, K2tog K5 K2tog, K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left), K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) K9. (41 sts)

Row 26: K9 P2 K30

Row 27 (Head): K30 (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row), K9. (47 sts)

Row 28: K9 P8 K30

Row 29: K14, K2tog K3 K2tog, K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9. (43 sts)

Row 30: K9 P6 K28

Row 31 (Ears): K28  K2tog (as you did before) AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). 

Flip the st and K2tog from RIGHT to LEFT…
…and make 3 sts in the K2tog. 
Continue to make a Bobble 3 like before.

K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, 

Knit the 2 sts together from LEFT to RIGHT…
…and start the bobble 3 (3 sts in K2tog)

K9. (41 sts)

***Row 31 repeated without the photos***

Row 31 (Ears): K28  K2tog (as you did before) AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, K9. (41 sts)

Row 32: K across

Row 33: K14, K2tog K1 K2tog, K8, K2tog, K2 K2tog, K8 (37 sts)

 Row 34 – 38: Knit across

With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change colours, do so now.)

*Row 39: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 40: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*

Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch this video.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

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LEFT Hand 

Cast on 34

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1. 

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change colours, do so now.)

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K20 Cast on 13 sts. K14. (47 sts)

Row 14: Knit across

Row 15 (Feet): K8 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). K2, Bobble 3 (as before), K35.

Row 16: K35 P4 K8

Row 17 (Belly): K9, (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9, K2tog K9, K2tog. K14. (51 sts)

Row 18: K34 P8 K9

Row 19: K across

Row 20: K34 P8 K9

Row 21: K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9 K2tog K7 K2tog, K14. (47 sts)

Row 22: K32 P6 K9

Row 23 (Arms): K8 Bobble 3, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K2, K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), Bobble 3, K31. (45 sts)

Row 24: K32, P4 K9

Row 25 (Neck): K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left), K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) K9, K2tog K5 K2tog, K14. (41 sts)

Row 26: K30 P2 K9

Row 27 (Head): K9 (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row), K30. (47 sts)

Row 28: K30 P8 K9

Row 29: K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9, K2tog K3 K2tog, K14. (43 sts)

Row 30: K28 P6 K9

Row 31 (Ears): K9  K2tog AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, K28. (41 sts)

Row 32: K across

Row 33: K8, K2tog, K2 K2tog, K8, K2tog K1 K2tog K14. (37 sts)

 Row 34 – 38: Knit across

With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change colours, do so now.)

*Row 39: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 40: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*

Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

Hints and Tips

While not necessary, I like to pull the arms closer together for a thinner neck and more noticeable belly. From the back, pass your needle to the front. Pass the yarn over the noticeable decrease stitch beside the arm and under the chest. Go up on the other side of the chest, catch the decrease stitch and pass through the hole next to the arm. Pull together as tight as you like. I leave a bit of slackness.

Catch the sts on the sides like this.
Use the same colour as your hippo.
I used a contrasting colour to showcase the sts.
Pull the yarn snug.
Tie off and work in the ends.

If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥ If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.

If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are done with the K1 P2 ribbing sections.

You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

K3tog – knit 3 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. 

Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

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How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves - FREE Knitting Pattern

Made with large needles, these fingerless gloves are super fast to make if you know how to knit in the round. And really, knitting in the round isn’t difficult. But damn, it does look impressive when you’re knitting something using four needles. Not gonna lie. But with saying that, if you would prefer to knit this pattern flat on two needles like my Super Simple Fingerless Gloves or my Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves, please leave a comment at the end of this pattern.

But I digress. There are two styles you can make with this pattern. One has a plain cuff. The other has a double cuff. Both allow for your creativity to shine with yarn choice.

Because they are such a plain design, you can use any variety of colours to make these look awesome. Dare I say my favourite – variegated yarn – did wonders here… I really like how the splotching effect worked for the double cuff and how random the colours appeared when making the plain purl cuff with the beginning purl round.


These also are a great stash buster. You can use up the smaller quantities of yarn from other projects to make stripes. I used the self-striping yarn available at one of the big box craft stores to make my striped version. Be warned though. Not all self-striping yarn will work for this. It needs to be smaller sections of striping than most of the self striping yarn out there. If it makes for a great ombre shall or blanket, the striping is too wide.

As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here – How to Knit Basic Long Fingerless Gloves. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts, Etsy and Ravelry. Depending on how long ago I published this, the printable pattern may appear below.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you want them longer, you can add more rows between the decrease rows. So instead of 6 rows, you could do 8 or more. If you want them to go further up the arm, cast on more when starting. Multiples of four stitches seem to work out quite nicely and let you maintain the ribbing at the fingers. I do recommend that you decrease stitches down to what’s written for the various sizes. It keeps it from getting sloppy, and dare I say annoying, when they don’t fit properly at the hand.

Knitting 2 together, or the decreases, do form a bit of a seam. To keep this out of view and make it run less noticeably down the inside of the arm, the pattern is designed so the thumb hole is on either side of this seam for the left and right hand.

What style would you like to make?

Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing.

2″ (5 cm) – 8 sts

2″ (5 cm) – 11 rows

in stockinette


Things You Need

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Set of 4 size 9 US (5.5 mm) double pointed knitting needles (DPN)

Worsted weight yarn

Tapestry needle


Left Hand (Plain Cuff)

Cast on 28 (32, 36)

Round 1 – 6: Purl around

Round 7 – 19: Knit around

Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.

Round 21 – 26: Knit around

Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.

Round 28 – 33: Knit around

Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.

Round 35 – 40: Knit around

Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.

Round 42 – 47: Knit around

Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.

Round 49 – 54: Knit around

Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.

Round 56 – 67: Knit around

Round 68: Knit 2 (4,6). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round

Round 69: Knit 2 (4, 6). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).

Round 70 – 74: P1 K1 around.

Cast off.

Right Hand (Plain Cuff)

Cast on 28 (32, 36)

Round 1 – 6: Purl around

Round 7 – 19: Knit around

Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.

Round 21 – 26: Knit around

Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.

Round 28 – 33: Knit around

Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.

Round 35 – 40: Knit around

Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.

Round 42 – 47: Knit around

Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.

Round 49 – 54: Knit around

Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.

Round 56 – 67: Knit around

Round 68: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round

Round 69: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).

Round 70 – 74: K1 P1 around.

Cast off.

Left Hand (Double Cuff)

Cast on 28 (32, 36)

Round 1 – 6: Purl around

Round 7 – 15: Knit around (If you are going to change the colour of the yarn for the purl rows, knit round 15 with the new colour).

Round 16 – 19: Purl around

Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.

Round 21 – 26: Knit around

Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.

Round 28 – 33: Knit around

Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.

Round 35 – 40: Knit around

Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.

Round 42 – 47: Knit around

Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.

Round 49 – 54: Knit around

Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.

Round 56 – 67: Knit around

Round 68: Knit 2 (4,6). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round

Round 69: Knit 2 (4, 6). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).

Round 70 – 74: P1 K1 around.

Cast off.

Right Hand (Double Cuff)

Cast on 28 (32, 36)

Round 1 – 6: Purl around

Round 7 – 15: Knit around (If you are going to change the colour of the yarn for the purl rows, knit round 15 with the new colour).

Round 16 – 19: Purl around

Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.

Round 21 – 26: Knit around

Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.

Round 28 – 33: Knit around

Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.

Round 35 – 40: Knit around

Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.

Round 42 – 47: Knit around

Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.

Round 49 – 54: Knit around

Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.

Round 56 – 67: Knit around

Round 68: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round

Round 69: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).

Round 70 – 74: K1 P1 around.

Cast off.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – Knit 2 together

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away anything that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

Simple Knit Fingerless Gloves

Are you just learning to knit? Tired of making dishcloths and scarves and want to make something awesome? Here is something that will make you look like a pro when it comes to knitting. A total brag-worthy design that any knitting newbie can make.

I’ve written a bunch of beginner patterns for slippers, but never for fingerless gloves. It was a common request, but for some reason, I never felt compelled to do so. After a bit of false starts and redesigns, I’ve finally come up with a fingerless glove pattern that I am happy with. I’ve kept the seams to a minimum and placed the seam along the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb. If you’re not a fan of seams my other fingerless gloves and mitts knitted on dpn can be found here – Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS, How to Knit Texting Mittens, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves and How to Knit Flip Mitts.

These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches. If you need help with increasing stitches, there is a video showing how to increase when making the P1 and the M1.I also just made a video showing How to Use a Stitch Holder. You can click those links to watch the how-to videos. They are also embedded at the end of this page. Scroll to the bottom to watch.

I’ve also jazzed up this basic design a bit. If you want to knit owl gloves flat on 2 needles just like this pattern is, You can use this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to read the free knitting pattern online.

I’ve also written the pattern to fit different sizes – small, medium and large. Once again I’ll use the analogy of what fits my hand. I wear a medium rubber glove and the medium size fits my hand perfectly. I wash dishes and scrub my toilets. I wear gloves when I do. If you never wear rubber or latex gloves, this won’t make any sense to you, I guess. I’m only saying this because I have had complaints about my sizing references. I don’t live in a gloveless kind of world but I’m glad some people do. It always amazes me what some “Karens” feel the need to bitch about ? If you want to go to a specific size you can try these links. If I’ve done my code correctly, it should take you to the right point on the webpage:

Small

Medium

Large

I’ve made a PDF download for this pattern. I didn’t think it was going to be this long until I wrote it out. I made the decision to write each size and hand out separately to make it even easier for the new knitters out there who want to give this pattern a go. And btw, you can totally do it! To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and from this website – KweenBee.com.

If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. Available in English only.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

I also plan on making a how-to video for this. It will cover the medium size as that’s what most people order when I sell online. I always am hopeful I’ll get the videos done in a timely manner, but they’re always more work than I think they’re going to be. You can check out my other videos in the meantime with this handy link – KweenBee on YouTube – Janis Frank

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clocking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.


Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing.

2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts

2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows

If You Need Help with the M1 or P1

Scroll down to the end of the page to watch quick how-to videos showing how to do these simple stitches. There’s a video showing how to use a stitch holder too!

Things You Need:

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Worsted weight yarn

Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle


Small

Right Hand

Cast on 31

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K18 M1 K1 M1 K12

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P12 PM1 P3 PM1 P18

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K18 M1 K5 M1 K12

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P12 PM1 P7 PM1 P18

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K18 M1 K9 M1 K12

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: K18. Slip the next 11 stitches onto a stitch holder. K12.

Row 38: Purl across

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41-48: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 11 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 31

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K12 M1 K1 M1 K18

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P18 PM1 P3 PM1 P12

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K12 M1 K5 M1 K18

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P18 PM1 P7 PM1 P12

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K12 M1 K9 M1 K18

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: K12. Slip the next 11 stitches onto a stitch holder. K18.

Row 38: Purl across

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41-48: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 11 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Medium

Right Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K19 M1 K1 M1 K13

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P19

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K19 M1 K5 M1 K13

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P19

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K19 M1 K9 M1 K13

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P19

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K19. Slip the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K13.

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-52: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K13 M1 K1 M1 K19

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P19 PM1 P3 PM1 P13

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K13 M1 K5 M1 K19

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P19 PM1 P7 PM1 P13

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K13 M1 K9 M1 K19

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P19 PM1 P11 PM1 P13

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K13. Slip the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K19.

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-52: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Large

Right Hand

Cast on 35

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K20 M1 K1 M1 K14

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P14 PM1 P3 PM1 P20

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K20 M1 K5 M1 K14

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P14 PM1 P7 PM1 P20

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K20 M1 K9 M1 K14

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P14 PM1 P11 PM1 P20

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K20 M1 13 M1 K14

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: K20. Slip the next 15 stitches onto a stitch holder. K14.

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45: Knit across

Row 46: Purl across

Row 47-54: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 15 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 35

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K14 M1 K1 M1 K20

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P20 PM1 P3 PM1 P14

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K14 M1 K5 M1 K20

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P20 PM1 P7 PM1 P14

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K14 M1 K9 M1 K20

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P20 PM1 P11 PM1 P14

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K14 M1 13 M1 K20

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: K14. Slip the next 15 stitches onto a stitch holder. K20.

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45: Knit across

Row 46: Purl across

Row 47-54: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 15 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

The purple fingerless mitts have 60 rows total between the garter stitch cuff and the start of the thumb gusset (Row 15 – 22). I don’t think I would increase much further than that. The glove itself isn’t very stretchy and won’t fit further up the forearm. Too much bunching may also make the glove push its way further down and off the fingers.

I used some self-striping yarn to make these. Not all striping yarn is created equal. Some of them are designed to stripe for larger projects and don’t really work for smaller projects like this. Though with saying that, you could always cut the yarn and start a new colour where you choose. You will have more ends to deal with, but I have a post that shows you How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. ?? This link will take you right there.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.

How to make one or M1 – Increase between stitches.

PM1- Make one (purl wise). Pick up the stitch as you did for M1, but purl the stitch as you regularly would. You can watch the video below.

And for those of you who are unsure of how to use a stitch holder, I made a quick little video that shows you how to do it without cutting the yarn. It’s a time saver for sure. No one likes working in ends if they can avoid it.

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Autumn Leaf Half Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern for Fingerless Gloves Knit on Straight Needles

Autumn leaf half gloves - fingerless glove knitting pattern

The inspiration of this pattern came from my previous Spider Fingerless Gloves pattern. I really like incorporating the design into the final wearable piece. I’ve always liked the leaf pattern and this seemed to be a great way to use it.

There isn’t a full-on how to for this pattern, by I have included helpful videos to show you how to do certain parts of the pattern. These will certainly help with any of the tricker parts like knitting the wrong side of the YO K1 YO and drawing the edges of the leaves together to a point. Click the link and it will open and automatically play the YouTube video.

If you would like to purchase a copy of this pattern that you can download and print, I have a number of options for you. You can buy the pattern on this website – Autumn Leaf Half Gloves – with How-to VIDEOS, Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica, Google Books and Amazon. Amazon has the book in both paperback and Kindle formats.

Use these 👇🏼 to share on social media 🥰

If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there 👆🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.

If you like my patterns and want to print more, you can download this pattern and more when you become a Website Member works. Becoming a member is like being a patron of the arts. By supporting me for a small fee every month, you help support me to create more patterns for you to use. You also get access to the patterns in the members area. You can see how many pattern there are currently available in my Current List of Member Patterns. For more information on how you can support me and become a member, click the button below.

Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles in stockinette.

2” (5 cm) – 10 sts

2” (5 cm) – 15 rows

Things You Need

Knitting needles:

  • Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
  • Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
  • Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Worsted weight yarn – any standard size ball will do

Cable Needle – There are a number a styles but I prefer the hook version

Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle

Sizing

Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the leaves the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.

If you are making the small or large size glove, check the gauge for the size 6 US (4 mm). Adjust to the size of the needles to obtain the correct gauge. If you are making the large size, increase your needle size by a size US (mm). For example, you need to use a size 7 US (4.5 mm) to get the correct gauge, use size 9 US (5.5 mm) knitting needles for the large. If you are making a small, use size 5 US (3.75 mm).

To know what size you should make, you can use the infographic below on how to measure your hand, or the hand of whomever you are making them for.

Abbreviations are at the END of the Pattern

Left Hand

Cast on 34

Row 1: (P1 K2) Repeat to last st. P1

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to last st. K1

♥ Row 3: (P1 TB) Repeat to last st. P1

Row 4: As row 2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 3 times more. (Counts as rows 5-10).

Row 11: P1 P2tog P21 K3 P7 (33 sts)

Row 12: K7 P3 K23

Row 13: P23 K2 C1F P6

Row 14: K6 P1 K1 P2 K23

Row 15: P23 K2 P1 C1F P5

Row 16: K5 P1 K2 P2 K23

Row 17: P22 C1B K1 P2 YO K1 YO P5 (35 sts)

Row 18: K5 P3 K2 P1 K1 P1 K22 (35 sts)

Row 19: P21 C1B P1 K1 P2 (K1 YO) twice K1 P5 (37 sts)

Row 20: K5 P5 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (37 sts)

Row 21: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P5 (39 sts)

Row 22: K5 P7 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (39 sts)

Row 23: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K3 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) P5 (37 sts)

Row 24: K5 P5 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (37 sts)

Row 25: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P5 (35 sts)

Row 26: K5 P3 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (35 sts)

Row 27: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P6 YO K1 YO P2 K1 P2 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P5 ( 37 sts)

Row 28: K8 P1 K2 P3 K23 (37 sts)

Row 29: P23 (K1 YO) twice. K1 P2 K1 P8 (39 sts)

Row 30: K8 P1 K2 P5 K6 M1 K3 M1 K14 (41 sts)

Row 31: P25 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P2 K1 P8 (43 sts)

Row 32: K8 P1 K2 P7 K25 (43 sts)

Row 33: P14 PM1 P5 PM1 P6 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right ) P2 C1F P7 (43 sts)

Row 34: K7 P1 K3 P5 K27 (43 sts)

Row 35: P27 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left ) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P3 K1 P7 (41 sts)

Row 36: K7 P1 K3 P3 K6 M1 K7 M1 K14 (43 sts)

Row 37: P29 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P3 YO K1 YO P7 (43 sts)

Row 38: K7 P3 K33 (43 sts)

Row 39: P14 PM1 P9 PM1 P10 (K1 YO) twice K1 P7 (47 sts)

Row 40: K7 P5 K35 (47 sts)

Row 41: P35 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P7 (49 sts)

Row 42: K7 P7 K10 M1 K11 M1 K14 (51 sts)

Row 43: P37 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P7 (49 sts)

Row 44: K7 P5 K37 (49 sts)

Row 45: P14 Pass the next 13 sts of the thumb gusset onto a stitch holder. P10 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P7 (34 sts)

Row 46: K7 P3 K24 (34 sts)

Row 47: P24 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P7 (32 sts)

Row 48: K across

Row 49: P across

Row 50: K across

Row 51: P2tog (K2 P1) to the end of the row

Row 52: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1

Row 53: (P1 TB) Repeat to the last st. P1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once.

Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.

Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder with the WRONG side facing you. (See hints and tips for more info).

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Cast off on the RIGHT side.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

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Right Hand

Cast on 34

Row 1: (P1 K2) Repeat to last st. P1

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to last st. K1

♥ Row 3: (P1 TB) Repeat to last st. P1

Row 4: As row 2 ♥ Repeat form ♥ to ♥ 3 times more. (Counts as rows 5-10).

Row 11: P7 K3 P21 P2tog P1 (33 sts)

Row 12: K23 P3 K7

Row 13: P6 C1B K2 P23

Row 14: K23 P2 K1 P1 K6

Row 15: P5 C1B P1 K2 P23

Row 16: K23 P2 K2 P1 K5 

Row 17: P5 YO K1 YO P2 K1 C1F P22 (35 sts)

Row 18: K22 P1 K1 P1 K2 P3 K5 (35 sts)

Row 19: P5 (K1 YO) twice K1 P2 K1 P1 C1F P21 (37 sts)

Row 20: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P5 K5 (37 sts)

Row 21: P5 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (39 sts)

Row 22: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P7 K5 (39 sts)

Row 23: P5 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left). K3 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (37 sts)

Row 24: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P5 K5 (37 sts)

Row 25: P5 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (35 sts)

Row 26: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P3 K5 (35 sts)

Row 27: P5 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P2 K1 P2 YO K1 YO P6 PM1 P1 PM1 P14 ( 37 sts)

Row 28: K23 P3 K2 P1 K8 (37 sts)

Row 29: P8 K1 P2 (K1 YO) twice. K1 P23 (39 sts)

Row 30: K14 M1 K3 M1 K6 P5 K2 P1 K8 (41 sts)

Row 31: P8 K1 P2 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P25 (43 sts)

Row 32: K25 P7 K2 P1 K8 (43 sts)

Row 33: P7 C1B P2 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P6 PM1 P5 PM1 P14 (43 sts)

Row 34: K27 P5 K3 P1 K7 (43 sts)

Row 35: P7 K1 P3 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P27 (41 sts)

Row 36: K14 M1 K7 M1 K6 P3 K3 P1 K7 (43 sts)

Row 37: P7 YO K1 YO P3 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P29 (43 sts)

Row 38: K33 P3 K7 (43 sts)

Row 39: P7 (K1 YO) twice K1 P10 PM1 P9 PM1 P14 (47 sts)

Row 40: K35 P5 K7 (47 sts)

Row 41: P7 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P35 (49 sts)

Row 42: K14 M1 K11 M1 K10 P7 K7 (51 sts)

Row 43: P7 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P37 (49 sts)

Row 44: K37 P5 K7 (49 sts)

Row 45: P7 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P10 Pass the next 13 sts of the thumb gusset onto a stitch holder. P14 (34 sts)

Row 46: K24 P3 K7 (34 sts)

Row 47: P7 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P24 (32 sts)

Row 48: K across

Row 49: P across

Row 50: K across

Row 51: P2tog (K2 P1) to the end of the row

Row 52: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1

Row 53: (P1 TB) Repeat to the last st. P1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once.

Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.

Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder with the WRONG side facing you. (See hints and tips for more info).

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Cast off on the RIGHT side.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

Everything between and including the PM1 and M1 stitches form the thumb gusset.

When you are making the thumb, you MUST pick up the stitches from the wrong side. Pass the stitches from the stitch holder to the knitting needle then onto the other knitting needle so the wrong side facing you. If you don’t do the second pass, you’ll get a weird line.

Leave the cast off end of the finger cuff and the thumb longer so you can use it to sew up the seam along the side of the gloves and seam of the thumb, respectively.

The striped ombre versions of the gloves are done with Loops & Threads “Facets” yarn you can find at Michaels (as of the printing of this pattern). It’s thin for a worsted weight yarn and I needed to use a 4.5 mm set of dpn’s to get the sizing correct. Make sure to check your gauge and adjust accordingly!

Please be aware that these gloves look like the leaves are off center when they’re not being worn. I actually redesigned them so the motif would be 2 stitches over because when they were on, they looked too close to the thumb. Sometimes designs are weird and the center of the design visually isn’t the middle of the design mathematically or functionally. Ahhh! The joys of art…

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

YO – yarn over

TB – Pick up the stitch with your stitch holder. Hold the stitch at the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the stitch holder.

C1B – Cable 1 back. Pick up next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the BACK of your work. Knit the next stitch. Purl the stitch on the cable needle. This was for the Spider gloves but is the same for this pattern.

C1F – Cable 1 forward. Pick up the next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the FRONT of your work. Purl the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. This was for the Spider gloves but is the same for this pattern.

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how. 

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would. Watch this video to see how. 

K2tog – How you do this depends where you are in the pattern. If you are making the right side of the leaf, knit right to left. If you are making the left side of the leaf, knit left to right. If you do it this way you eliminate the twisting of the stitch and the edge of the leaf flows evenly.

The k2tog are given for RIGHT handed knitters. If you are knitting left to right as a LEFT handed knitter, reverse the order that you knit the stitches together. K2tog from left to right then pick up, twist, knit from right to left.

Sl St – slip the stitch

PSSO – pass the slipped stitch over.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or duplicate this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

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How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – With SPIDERS!! – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knit Spider Gloves - Fre Knitting Pattern - Fingerless Gloves with Spiders

Creepy? No. Awesome? YES! Knit a pair of fingerless gloves with a spider motif on the back of the hand. Guaranteed to never fall off, the 3D spider is created as you make the mitten.

Did you stumble upon this pattern but wanted to buy a pair of spider gloves? Head over to my Etsy shop and you can buy a pair in nearly any colour – CUSTOM MADE Hand Knit Adult Spider Fingerless Granny Gloves

Don’t forget to share this post!

This isn’t a pattern for beginners. You’ll need to think out of the box a bit for this one; making bobbles and working selectively over given stitches to create the body and head. But the basic glove portion is the same as every other glove with a thumb increase you’ve made, just like my Super Simple Fingerless Gloves only done with a purl stitch to make the spider stand out even more.

This pattern has been in the works for a number of years now. It originally started as a knit in the round design, but because of the extensive purling, there were always lines left where the needles met. I couldn’t live with that. 

So, there was a change in plans from the initial design. First change; it’s knit flat on 2 needles. The second is that instead of including a bunch of how-to pictures, and there were going to be a lot, I decided it was time to utilize links to how-to videos. Everything that may be challenging, particularly rows 25 – 27 can be a little confusing. I made videos that show the trickier parts of these rows. To watch the video, click the link provided. The video opens a new page on the website and you can watch the embedded YouTube video here.

Too much blib blab for you? Want to just print the damn pattern already? You have some options available to you.

Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit a Pair of Spider Fingerless Gloves – now with VIDEOS! You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. And the paperback version is also available on Amazon! It’s available to order in most countries. Be sure to make your purchase in the country you love so you can get free shipping with your Amazon Prime membership.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Wrong Stitch Counts

It is very easy to have the wrong number of stitches created around the spider. This can happen between the gusset for the thumb and the spider, or for the shorter side. If that happens you can take it apart. The other option is to just go with it. Being a stitch or two off won’t be noticable to the wearer. 

If you decide to “just go for it”, line up the stitches done to create the spider to previous spider stitches. In general, this is just the legs. They are very obvious. Keep in mind that you always knit the legs on the right side and purl the legs on the wrong side. Adjust the background of the mitt with your incorrect count of purl stitches on the right side and the knit stitches on the wrong side. 

For example, if you’re making Row 30, instead of K7 at the start of the row you made a mistake and now have K8. Knit the 8 stitches instead and start the rest of the pattern from there.

Example row:

Row 30: K7 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K6 M1 K11 M1 K12

Abbreviations

If you need help with the less common stitches in the abbreviations list below, all are included in this playlist below. Specific videos for rows 25-27 are included in this list and also embedded below each row for the Left Hand glove.

K – Knit

P – Purl 

st – stitch

sts – stitches

PM1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how. 

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how. 

P3tog – Purl 3 stitches together

P2tog – Purl 2 stitches together

K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together

K3tog – Knit 3 stitches together

C1B – Cable 1 back. Pick up next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the BACK of your work. Knit the next stitch. Purl the stitch on the cable needle. Watch this video on Cable 1 Back to see how. 

C1F – Cable 1 forward. Pick up the next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the FRONT of your work. Purl the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. Watch this video on Cable 1 Forward to see how.

FB2 – Knit in the front and back of the next stitch. This is also known as an increase one in the next stitch. I’m labeling it as this because it is very easy to make a mistake here and pick up an extra stitch. This way I know I have your attention and made you look ? No need to thank me..or complain. Both seem to be a likely response tbh.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)

Knitting needles – described below in sizing and gauge

Cable Needle

Stitch Holder

Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends

Sizing & Gauge

Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the spider consistent to the size of the glove.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off. Most knitting is tbh.

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4) 

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6)

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8)

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Left Hand

Cast on 33, loosely

Row 1: K1 P1 across. K last st.

Row 2: P1 K1 across. P last st.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 10 rows.

Row 11: P across

Row 12: K across

Row 13: P across

Row 14: K across

Row 15: P12 PM1 P1 PM1 P7 K1 P3 K1 P8 (35 sts)

Row 16: K8 P1 K3 P1 K22 (35 sts)

Row 17: P20 K1 P1 K1 P3 K1 P1 K1 P6 (35 sts)

Row 18: K6 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K5 M1 K3 M1 K12 (37 sts)

Row 19: P22 K1 P1 K1 P3 K1 P1 K1 P6 (37 sts)

Row 20: K6 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K22 (37 sts)

Row 21: P12 PM1 P5 PM1 P5 C1F twice, P1, C1B twice, P6 (39 sts)

Row 22: K6 *K1 P1* Repeat from *to * 3 more times, K25 (39 sts)

Row 23: P25 C1F K1 P1 K1 C1B P7 (39 sts) 

Row 24: K8 P2 K1 P2 K7 M1 K7 M1 K12 (41 sts)

Row 25: P28 K2tog, Bobble 6 (K6 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the one stitch, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K2tog 3 times (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle.) K2tog. P8  (39 sts) Click here for the video how-to link – Row 26 Video Tutorial

Row 26: K8 PM1 P3tog PM1 K28 (39 sts) Click here for the video how-to link: Row 26 – Video Tutorial

Row 27: P12 PM1 P9 PM1 P7 FB2 (This is a simple increase knit-wise in the next stitch. These are the start of the front legs). Bobble 5 (K5 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 5 stitches in the one stitch, P5, turn, K5, turn, P2tog P1 P2tog, turn, K3 (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle) FB2 (AKA Increase in the next stitch. Makes the other front legs). P8. (43 sts) Click here for the video how-to link: Row 27 – Video Tutorial

Row 28: K8 P2 K1 P2 K30 (43 sts) 

Row 29: P29 C1B K1 P1 K1 C1F P7 (43 sts)

Row 30: K7 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K6 M1 K11 M1 K12  (45 sts)

Row 31: P30 C1B twice P1 C1F twice P6 (45 sts)

Row 32: K6 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K30 (45 sts)

Row 33: P12. Pass the next 13 stitches to a stitch holder. P7 K1 P3 K1 P8 (32 sts)

Row 34: K8 P1 K3 P1 K19 (32 sts)

Row 35: P across

Row 36: K across

Row 37: P across

Row 38: K across

Row 39 – 42: K1 P1 across

Cast off loosely.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder. Transfer them onto the other needle so you start knitting with the WRONGside facing you. If you don’t transfer them onto the other needle you’ll get a line.

Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across

Row 3: K across

Cast off loosely.

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Right Hand

Cast on 33, loosely

Row 1: K1 P1 across. K last st.

Row 2: P1 K1 across. P last st.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 10 rows.

Row 11: P across

Row 12: K across

Row 13: P across

Row 14: K across

Row 15: P8 K1 P3 K1 P7 PM1 P1 PM1 P12 (35 sts)

Row 16: K22 P1 K3 P1 K8 (35 sts)

Row 17: P6 K1 P1 K1 P3 K1 P1 K1 P20 (35 sts)

Row 18: K12 M1 K3 M1 K5 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K6 (37 sts)

Row 19: P6 K1 P1 K1 P3 K1 P1 K1 P22 (37 sts)

Row 20: K22 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K6 (37 sts)

Row 21: P6 C1F twice, P1, C1B twice, P5 PM1 P5 PM1 P12 (39 sts)

Row 22: K24 *K1 P1* Repeat from *to * 3 more times, K7 (39 sts)

Row 23: P7 C1F K1 P1 K1 C1B P25 (39 sts)

Row 24: K12 M1 K7 M1 K7 P2 K1 P2 K8 (41 sts)

Row 25: P8 K2tog, Bobble 6 (K6 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the one stitch, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K2tog 3 times (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle.) K2tog. P28 (39 sts)

Row 26: K28 PM1 P3tog PM1 K8 (39 sts)

Row 27: P8 FB2 (This is a simple increase knit-wise in the next stitch. These are the start of the front legs). Bobble 5 (K5 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 5 stitches in the one stitch, P5, turn, K5, turn, P2tog P1 P2tog, turn, K3 (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (There is now 1 stitch on your needle.) FB2 (AKA Increase in the next stitch. Makes the other front legs). P7 PM1 P9 PM1 P12. (43 sts)

Row 28: K30 P2 K1 P2 K8 (43 sts)

Row 29: P7 C1B K1 P1 K1 C1F P29 (43 sts)

Row 30: K12 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 *K1 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K7 (45 sts)

Row 31: P6 C1B twice P1 C1F twice P30 (45 sts)

Row 32: K30 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K6 (45 sts)

Row 33: P8 K1 P3 K1 P7 Pass the next 13 stitches to a stitch holder P12 (32 sts)

Row 34: K19 P1 K3 P1 K8 (32 sts)

Row 35: P across

Row 36: K across

Row 37: P across

Row 38: K across

Row 39 – 42: K1 P1 across

Cast off loosely.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder. Transfer them onto the other needle so you start knitting with the WRONGside facing you. If you don’t transfer them onto the other needle you’ll get a line.

Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across

Row 3: K across

Cast off loosely.

Finishing

I recommend that you finish the body of the spider before sewing the seams along the edge. It’s easier to work it when flat. I like to make a figure 8 around the body, to the head, around the head and back to the start.

To give the spider body and head a more rounded feel, cut a length of yarn about 12” long. Insert your tapestry needle from the wrong side through the front between the head and the body. Pick up stitches around the edge of the body, back to the head. Pull snug until you are happy with the body shape

Pick up stitches around the head back to the body. Pull snug until you’re happy with the shape.

Pull the yarn to the back of your work. Tie off.

I like to tack the body at it’s base to the glove so it won’t flop around and stay in line with the head. Tie off.

No need to work in the ends when finishing the spider body and head. Simply pull the yarn through the body of the spider. Press the body down and cut the yarn. When the body pops back up, the end will be hidden in the body.

Once the spider finishing is complete, sew the seams along the edge and the thumb, working in the ends when finished to avoid lumps from knots.

Like all my patterns, you are welcome to you this pattern to sell, give away or keep any physical items that you make. All I ask is that you respect my work and don’t make copies of my work in any form.

If you feel the need to complain about not being able to print this pattern from this website page, may I suggest you read this post – Your Patterns Aren’t Free! If you still feel a need to vent in the comments, wtf is the matter with you? It’s bad enough I had to take the time to write the blog post because of your fellow entitled users, don’t be like that too. And reassess your life. Seriously.



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Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit

Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit cover art

I’ve been busy as of late! I’ve updated photos and rewritten a few of my fingerless glove and mitt patterns over the last few weeks to bring you yet another compilation of all my mitt and glove patterns! To date, there are a total of 9 patterns all together. All the favourites, and a couple that were so old you may not have even known they existed. For some reason, people don’t seem to like to do searches of this site or follow links. It’s weird TBH.

Currently, it is only available through retailers online. You can order a physical copy through Amazon with free shipping if you are an Amazon Prime member. As I write this I am making a selection of my publications to physical book stores. It’s a bit of a process to make this happen but hopefully ?? I’ll get the formatting down and accepted. Marketing is pricey so I need to be selective on how I’m going to approach this. Wish me luck!

Patterns to make all of the mitts and gloves in the photos below are included with this pattern collection.

But on to my latest publication. This collection contains patterns for fingerless gloves knit flat on 2 needles and seamless gloves and mittens knit in the round on double pointed needles (DPN). This compilation also includes mitts that are specifically designed for texting. And lastly, another design to free your fingers when you need them but cover your fingers when required. In short, this collection meets all your fashion and functionality requirements.

You can purchase and print the PDF yourself if you like. It is cheaper that way, of course. You can purchase it from my website here – Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit or from my Etsy shop here – Nine Knitting Patterns! – Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Collection. Either way I would like you to know it’s 106 pages. It’s a lot to print, but if you are comfortable reading PDF’s on your table or phone, this a very economical option. You can also just print the pattern you want by selecting the pages and printing on two sides of the page, but you’ll have to know how to do this. I can’t help you because every printer has a different way of doing it.

If you want to purchase the printed book, delivered to your door for free if you’re an Amazon Prime member, please click the country you are in:

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

This publication is available in English only.

Like always, all of the patterns are free to read on this website. They are ad supported and unprintable. Sorry, but too many people were just printing the pages leaving me with nothing but a bill for web hosting costs. You may not realize this, but with each illegal print, you cost me advertising revenue. I am writing patterns to help support me and my family, not charity. I can only give so much folks!

Another option to purchase the paperback if you are in the United States is through Walmart. I can’t find it on Target, but hopefully it will be there soon. Click the button below:

The list of the patterns in this collection include the following (all titles are clickable links to the pattern btw):

Super Simple Fingerless Gloves
Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!
Basic Long Fingerless Gloves
Cable Fingerless Gloves or Mitts
Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves
Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts
Arm Warmers or Gloves – with BOWS!

I’ve also organized it so there is a specific page with all of the glove and mitten patterns in one place. You can see that here: Fingerless Gloves and Flip Mitts – FREE Knitting Patterns

I hope to keep you all informed of my progress with getting my patterns in real stores. The potential is there and I’m really excited where this next stage of my pattern writing journey takes me.

Happy knitting everyone!!!

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How to Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves

Free knitting pattern - flip mitts

Make yourself a nifty pair of flip mitts. They’re hip, trendy and handier than a pocket on a shirt! Not only can you make these super awesome mitts for just about anyone from teen to adult, but you can forgo the finger portion and make some cool fingerless gloves. Technically, they’re fingerless mittens but that just sounds weird.

They’re knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. You’ll need to know how to knit to make this project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.

The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand, medium is an average lady’s hand, large is for an average man’s hand, and extra large will fit a very large man’s hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each. Keep scrolling to read how to make the finger flap. Sorry, this pattern is a bit of a mammoth



If you would prefer, you can also download this pattern to any device such as a smartphone, computer or tablet. The PDF of this pattern is available on my website here: Knitted Flip Mitts and Fingerless Gloves. It will be available in all my retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy and Lovecraft’s. I’m also working on a compilation of all my glove and mitten patterns that will be a book on Amazon.

Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

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Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 5 mm (US size 8) double pointed needles (or whatever size needles you need to get the correct gauge).

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastener (AKA – Velcro*)

Permanent glue

Gauge

18 stitches = 4 inches

24 rows = 4 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 28 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. K26.

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, K26.

Round 35 – 37: Knit

Round 38 – 42: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 12: Knit

Round 13: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 14: Knit

Pull yarn through.

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Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. K30.

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, K30.

Round 38 – 40: Knit

Round 41 – 45: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 13: Knit

Round 14: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 15: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 37 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. K34.

Round 40: K1, pick up a st, K34.

Round 41 – 43: Knit

Round 44 – 49: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 20: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Extra Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 37-38: Knit

Round 39: K1, pick up a st, k15, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 40 – 41: Knit

Round 42: K1, place next 17 sts onto the stitch holder. K38.

Round 43: K1, pick up a st, K38.

Round 44 – 46: Knit

Round 47 – 52: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 17 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 17 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 22: Knit

Pull yarn through.

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Finger Flap

Instructions are written for small (medium, large, extra large)

Cast on 32 (36, 40, 44) loosely.

Round 1 – 6: K2 P2

Round 7 and on: Knit around until work measures 3 (3.5, 4, 4.5) inches from the cast on edge.

Next round: K1 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2 tog K2 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2 tog K2 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2 tog K2 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2 tog K2 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the thumb is along the edge of fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Graft Fingertips

The divided stitches will look something like this:

How to graft stitches knitting

With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.

Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.

? Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.

Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. ?

Repeat from ? to ? until there are no stitches left on either needle.

 Pull the yarn tight.

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the back of the mitten first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the finger flap back (off the fingers). Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.

How to Pick Up a Stitch

I use this method to increase a stitch or pick up a stitch because it doesn’t leave a hole in your work. It takes a little longer to do but worth the effort in the final piece.

Make the stitch in the yarn stretched between two stitches.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Pick the yarn up with the needle.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Transfer the stitch onto the opposite needle.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Knit this newly formed stitch. You may have to pull the yarn forward a bit to get your needle beneath the yarn.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

It automatically twists the stitch eliminating the hole.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb or finger flap, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.

Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.

Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be ?

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FREE Knitting Pattern – How to Knit Texting Mittens

How to Knit Texting Mitts - Knitting Pattern

Improve your texting in cold climates with these thumbless mittens. More than just a pair of fingerless gloves, these keep your hands warm and only expose your thumbs when needed. The thumb pocket is sewn on and the flap is secured at the base of the palm with Velcro* for easy access. The flap hangs in the back out of the way to enable your texting abilities. Plan on using your thumbs for a while? Then simply tuck the flap into the thumb pocket.

The sizes are each written separately as each size is a bit different in row and stitch counts. Scroll down this post to the size you would like to make. Medium fits the average lady’s hand, large for men, and small for pre-teens.

Don’t forget to share this post!

Don’t want to come back here to read the pattern? You can download the pattern to your tablet, phone or computer from my website at Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts. You can also get it from other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrafts. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to the site yet. It will be ASAP.

If you enjoy this and my other free knitting and crochet patterns, please Help Support My Work. It doesn’t have to be financial, though that’s always appreciated. Every like, share and follow also helps me keep this website running.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my

Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 4.5 mm double pointed needles

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastener (AKA – Velcro)

Glue

Gauge

10 stitches = 2 inches

13 rows = 2 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts.. There should be 31 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 35 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 31 sts until work measures approximately 3.5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K10 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K6, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (if you scroll to the end of the post there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Working over the 3 sts you just cast on, K3. Leave these 3 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Transfer these 3 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 25: Knit

Round 28: K2tog, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2tog, K1 .

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog four times

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

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Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 35 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 38 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 35 sts until work measures approximately 4 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K12 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 38 – 39: Knit

Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 39 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 41 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 39 sts until work measures approximately 5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K14 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K13, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K12, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 8: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: K1, pick up a st, K5, pick up a st, K1. (9 sts)

Row 16: Purl

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: Purl

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Purl

Row 21: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 9 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 22 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 4 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 40: Knit

Round 41: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K1, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.If you are unfamiliar with how to end the fingertips on mittens (this works for socks as well), I’ve added a picture tutorial at the end of another pattern. Instead of me adding all the photos and instructions again, here’s the link to learn how – 
How to Graft Fingertips

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Thumb Flap

With the yarn left from where you continued the thumb, attach the thumb flap to the mitten. Make sure that you attach the thumb flap to the back side of the left and right mittens accordingly. Easiest way is to lay the mitts flat with the thumbs pointing in opposite directions.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro that will fit on the base of the thumb flap. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the THUMB FLAP first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the thumb flap forward in the toasty warm thumb position. With the Velcro still together, place the Velcro where the bottom of the flap touches the palm of the mitten. Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.Like grafting the fingertips, I’ve also shown how to pick up a stitch without leaving a hole. If you’d like to see how it’s done, here’s the link to learn how – How to Pick up a Stitch

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

Make sure when attaching the Velcro to the thumb flap, that the fuzzy half of the Velcro is what you use for the flap. In other words, which ever side feels less rough. The other pokey side should go on the palm of the mitt. That way the Velcro won’t stick to the inside of the thumb flap when folded back into itself.

When picking up stitches to finish the thumb on the mitt, leave a long piece of yarn to sew on the thumb flap. This saves on the number of ends to sew in when you’re done.

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

*Velcro is a registered trademark.

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Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

2 needle owl gloves

Well, since the how-to video showing how to knit these gloves in the round went over like a lead balloon, I’ve put in the effort and redesigned the gloves so they can be knit flat on 2 needles. Perfect for a newbie knitter wanting to learn new techniques! In case you still want to learn how to knit in the round or want the seamless version, you can read the pattern here – How to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. The video is embedded on that page too, if you want to watch it.

If you are looking to knit a pair of plain gloves without the owls, the original version this pattern is available here – Super Simple Fingerless Gloves. It’s also knitted flat on 2 needles with a seam on the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb.

If you are so inclined and like to have matching sets of things, I have completed the matching hat or beanie! You could also call it a toque. Whatever floats your boat. It’s free to read on this website too. If you’d like to, click this link – How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern


Once again, I’ve made the gloves as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.

I am finished creating the downloadable pdf for this pattern and it’s available in all my usual online selling venues including Ravelry, Etsy, and this website – Super Easy to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS! Click any of those links to avoid the ads and purchase it for a nominal fee.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

I’ve also created videos for you to see how the stitches are done, if any of them are giving you problems. I do have all the basic stitch videos here – Learn Basic Knitting Stitches, but links to the slightly more advanced stitches that show you how to M1, PM1, C4F and C4B are provided on this page. Clicking the links will take you to the video, but will leave this page window open in your browser. You can also scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the stitch abbreviations that also contain the embedded video you can watch right from this page.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.


Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles.

2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts

2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows

in stockinette

Things You Need:

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 8 US (5mm) knitting needles

Worsted weight yarn

Cable Needle – There are a number a styles but I prefer the hook version

Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle

Left Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 21: K13 M1 K1 M1 K4 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 22: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 23: K20 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 24: P5 K1 P8 K1 P4 PM1 P3 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 25: K22 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 26: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 27: K13 M1 K5 M1 K4 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 28: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 29: K24 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 30: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P4 PM1 P7 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 31: K26 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 32: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 33: K13 M1 K9 M1 K4 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 34: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 35: K28 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 36: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P4 PM1 P11 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 37: K30 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 38: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 39: K13 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K4 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 40: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 41: K17 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 42: P5 K10 P to the end of the row

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-50: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

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Right Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: P18 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 21: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K4 M1 K1 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 22: P20 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 23: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 24: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P4 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 25: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 26: P22 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 27: K5 P1 K8 P1 K4 M1 K5 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 28: P24 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 29: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 30: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 31: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 32: P26 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 33: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 M1 K9 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 34: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 35: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 36: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 37: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 38: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 39: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K to the end of the row

Row 40: P17 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 41: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 42: P17 K10 P to the end of the row

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-50: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

You can make these gloves with a ribbed cuff and around the fingers like the original Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can easily do a K1 P1 ribbing to make that happen.

Abbreviation

K – knit

P – purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.

M1 or Make 1 – Increase between stitches when knitting.

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would.

PM1 or Purl Make 1 – Increase between stitches when purling.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4F or Cable 4 Forward

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B or Cable 4 Back
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FREE Knitting Pattern – Cable Fingerless Gloves

Cable Fingerless Gloves

The season is getting colder again, the few apples on my trees are turning red and my mind turns back towards knitting. And oh boy, am I coming up with a bunch of knitting designs! Now here’s to finding the time to publish them all. Work is also back to full-time so that’s great news ?

A couple of things about this knitting pattern before we grab our favourite worsted weight yarn, double pointed and cable needles and get to work. Like my Owl Fingerless Gloves pattern, I am keeping the stitch count the same and only changing the needles size to change the size of the glove. The pattern on the back of the hand stays proportional in size and placement on the glove remains the same for a better overall look.


I made a number of different lengths of the glove too, for demonstrative purposes. The taupe with flecks (apparently it’s also known as tweed, who knew) is the pattern exactly as written. I repeated the cable pattern once for the grey pair and 4 times for the purple tweed/flecked. There’s a note in the pattern what rows make up the 5 plait cable pattern. Why do 3 cables when you can do 5? I’ve always been a bit of an overachiever ?

The downloadable PDF version is completed and uploaded it to all my distributors. You can find it on the following fine and upstanding websites – Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and this website.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

And here is the obligatory, shameless self promotion of this website so I have some reason to keep writing patterns. You can check out my Help Support My Work page to read more or you can click this link to Buy Me a Coffee. It’s a place where artists, podcasters and other creatives can go to get a quick, one time donation of support from fans. It’s pretty awesome and I’m always grateful for everything I get.

If you don’t want or can’t afford to give anything. I get it. You can give a shoutout or share on your social media instead. It’s free to do and will only take you a minute. Handy links are below


Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I also have – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It is very plain Jane and it’s the yarn that makes this one pop.

Ok. Enough of that. Let’s get knitting!!!

Things you will need:

worsted weight yarn – I used Red Heart worsted weight (AKA size 4 or 8 ply) yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

Cable needle

A Note on Sizing:

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Left Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1-8: K1 P1 around

Row 9: K4 P1 K15 P1 K15

Row 10: K4 P1 C6F twice. K3 P1 K15 (you can click the blue link for a description of how to do a C6F or scroll to the abbreviations section)

Row 11 – 12: as row 9

Row 13: K4 P1 K3 C6B twice. P1 K15 (you can click the blue link for a description of how to do a C6B or scroll to the abbreviations section)

Row 14 – 15: as row 9

Rows 10 to 15 make the cable pattern. Repeat these rows to make the gloves longer as described earlier.

Next Row: K1 M1 K1 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (38 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K6 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K3 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (40 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K8 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K5 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (42 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K10 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K7 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (44 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K12 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K9 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (46 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K14 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K11 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (48 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K16 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (35 sts)

Next Row: K3 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog

Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

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Right Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1-8: K1 P1 around

Row 9: K18 P1 K15 P1 K1

Row 10: K18 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1

Row 11 – 12: as row 9

Row 13: K18 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1

Row 14 – 15: as row 9

Rows 10 to 15 make the cable pattern. Repeat these rows to make the gloves longer as described earlier.

Next Row: K1 M1 K1 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (38 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K20 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K3 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (40 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K22 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K5 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (42 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K24 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K7 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (44 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K26 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K9 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (46 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K28 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K11 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (48 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K30 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (35 sts)

Next Row: K17 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog

Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Hints and Tips

If you have too many stitches double check to make sure you haven’t picked up a stitch between the needles. If you don’t have enough stitches, did you drop one when you were making the cable? Yes, I do make typos sometimes but I double check and recheck before I publish these patterns and it is more likely you’ve made a slight error while knitting. I’ve given stitch counts at the end of every row to help you along. Please let me know if I legitly did make a mistake. But with saying that, it isn’t always my fault. Some of you get kinda nasty about this and you really need to stop. Here’s the email so you can complain to my manager if that last bit offended you – [email protected]. FYI Karens – I am the manager and that email address doesn’t work.

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the cable motif with one needle having 15 stitches. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the cable.

If you like your ribbing to be a little more snug, you can use a smaller size needles to knit this portion. Stepping it down a half size; small – 3.5 mm, medium – 4.5 mm and large 5.5 mm should work. You may want to go smaller. I don’t do this because I always forget to switch back.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section if it works. It’s been acting up since I switched hosting plans. Sorry.

Abbreviations:

C6F – Cable 6 forward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. 

C6B – Cable 6 backward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. 

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

P2tog – Purl 2 together

Well, that wraps up this knitting pattern. I hope you liked it, have a lot of fun with it, and maybe even make a bit of money from what you make. Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any gloves/mitts that you make from this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reproduce or republish this pattern in any form. Whether it be illegal screen shots of this page, a copy you print from this webpage, or multiple copies of the ONE pattern you paid for and subsequently give to your friends. Yes. All of those behaviours violate copyright laws. And every time you do that, it makes one less pair of eyeballs on my work that takes away from any ad revenue or other profits I may make from my hard efforts in designing and writing these patterns. I don’t work for free. I’m sure you don’t either.

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How to Knit Fingerless Arm Warmers or Mitts – with Bows!

Blue bow fingerless mitts

Knit a fabulous pair of fingerless gloves or mitts with the cutest little bows flowing down the length of your arm and back of your hand. Create the bows as you go; I have pics to show you how. Make them as long or as short as you like. It really depends on how much you like knitting in the round on double pointed needles (DPN).

Don’t want to read this online and avoid the ads. You can download this pattern for 99¢ directly from this website here – How to Knit Fingerless Arm Warmers or Gloves – with Bows! I can now process credit and debit cards right here on the website. Not cool with that? You can also download the pattern through Ravelry, Etsy and other retailers.

Over the years, I’ve designed a number of other knitted mitten and fingerless glove patterns. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves (uses a DK or 3 yarn) and my most popular so far Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can click any of those links to read the patterns online.


Like the owl motif, I have a love affair going on with these bows. So far, I’ve incorporated it into slippers and a dishcloth, both of which are available to read right here on my website for free (that’s right, give those links a click). They are also downloadable in a number of online retailers such as RaverlyEtsyGoogle Books and Amazon for a minimal cost. If you’re not a fan of intro blog blather or ads, you can also download this pattern at any of those fine retailers.

A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes and having the bows remain centered, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These mitts knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for the left hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.

If you’re running into problems with this knitting pattern or have a question, scroll down to the Hints and Tips section at the bottom of the post. I think I’ve pretty much answered everything. You can also click the link above to take you right there. If there are additional questions, they’ll pop up in the comments over time which are at the bottom of the page.

Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these links below ?????? and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too.

Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your printable PDF copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Things You Will Need

worsted weight yarn (any standard ball will be more than enough to make the shorter, hand only version. You’ll need more if you are making them longer. For example, I used less than a 100 gr or 3.5 oz ball to make the long green gloves in size medium.)

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder to hold stitches for the thumb

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

A Note on Sizing

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

Like most things I knit, I use myself for standard sizing. To give you an idea of fit, I wear a medium sized latex glove. The medium size bow glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Left Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.

Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around

Rounds 8 – 9: K around

♥︎ Round 10: K8 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19.

Making the strand. Notice that the stitches passed over are spread apart and not bunched together.
Making the strand - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
Strand complete. Note the slack of the strand.

Round 11: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 12: As round 10

Round 13: As round 11

Round 14: As round 10

Round 15: As round 11

Round 16: As round 10

Round 17: As round 11

Round 18: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up

Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
Four strands on the working needle

And knit the next stitch.

Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
Four strands and about to knit the stitch

Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed).

Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
Pull the yarn down beneath the strands as shown
Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
All strands caught by the knit stitch
Making the Bow - How to Knit Fingerless Bow Gloves
The bow once the other 3 stitches are knitted

K3 P1 K19

Round 18 written without photos: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19

Round 19: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19 ♥︎

Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ if you would like a longer length of glove. Each ? to ? repeat makes 1 bow motif.

Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19

Round 21: K to the P P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 22: K to the P P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19

Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 24: As round 22

Round 25: As round 21

Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19

Round 27: As round 21

Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19

Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 30: As round 22

Round 31: As round 21

Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19

Round 33: As round 21

Round 34: As round 22

Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19

Round 36: As round 22

Round 37: As round 21

Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K6 P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19

Round 39: As round 21

Rounds 40 – 41: K around

Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in lat stitch.

Round 43 – 46: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.

Blue bow fingerless mitts
Blue bow fingerless mitts

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Right Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.

Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around

Rounds 8 – 9: K around

♥︎ Round 10: K22 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5.

Round 11: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 12: As round 10

Round 13: As round 11

Round 14: As round 10

Round 15: As round 11

Round 16: As round 10

Round 17: As round 11

Round 18: K22 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5

Round 19: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5 ♥︎

Repeat from ? to ? if you would like a longer length of glove. Each ♥︎ to ♥︎ repeat makes 1 bow motif.

Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5

Round 21: K to the P. P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 22: K to the P. P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5

Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 24: As round 22

Round 25: As round 21

Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5

Round 27: As round 21

Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5

Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 30: As round 22

Round 31: As round 21

Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5

Round 33: As round 21

Round 34: As round 22

Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5

Round 36: As round 22

Round 37: As round 21

Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K to the P. P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5

Round 39: As round 21

Rounds 40 – 41: K around

Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in last stitch.

Round 43 – 46: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely.

Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Hints and Tips

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Spread the 7 passed stitches apart to allow for some slack in the strand. If you don’t the bows will pucker. I usually spread them as far apart as they will go and stay in a relaxed position.

A quick note on making them longer into arm warmers. The green arm warmers repeat the bow section 4 more times than what is written. As it is written you get the short gloves with 3 bow motifs. The final length is about 25 cm or 9.5 inches long. Depending on the circumference of the arm you may need to add and cast on more stitches. This is where having the bows staying centred gets difficult. I can’t really help you with that. It’s a bunch of additional math, frustration and trial and error I really don’t want to get into. Sorry.

Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between 2 knit stitches before the purl at the start of the bow motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the bow and lessens the chances of dropping or adding a stitch when switching between working needles.

When you are done making the bows, they may pull a bit weirdly on one side. Simply put your needle beneath the 4 strands and give a bit of a tug up away from the mitt on both sides. That is enough to straighten and even them out.

If you’ve gained a stitch, check to see that you haven’t picked up a stitch between your needles. This is very easy to do and I even do it on occasion. When switching between needles the yarn will catch on the needle, not falling in behind again like it should. If you’re a little distracted, you’ll knit this new “stitch”, gaining an extra stitch on the next round.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn (DK or 3 perhaps) can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.

Abbreviations:

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

K2tog – Knit 2 together

I’m going to repeat this statement just in case you missed it earlier…

Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost of 99¢. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.

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How to Knit Fingerless Gloves

Hand knit fingerless gloves

I’m not sure if this happens to anyone else, but I found some fantastic yarn on clearance that I absolutely had to have. Of course, I had no idea what to do with it. Then I got on my fingerless glove kick. I have written other patterns in the past such as my Owl Fingerless Gloves, Flip Mitts, and Texting Mitts, but they were all made with standard worsted weight yarn. The yarn I couldn’t leave behind was light weight; 3 as by North American terminology. So, a redesign of my gloves was in order! I absolutely love that these are a lighter, more delicate version of my previous patterns. AND I can use colour changing yarn and it works! If this is your first time using one of my patterns, I kinda got a thing for shaded yarns…just sayin’.

And if you were looking to buy a pair of these beauties but accidentally wound up here, click this link Hand Knit Fingerless Gloves and you can purchase a finished pair from my website. Or if you prefer to order through Etsy, you can get them there too – Fingerless Gloves by KweenBee on Etsy.


Like my other fingerless mitts, these are knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. This is definitely not a beginner’s knitting project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.

How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves - FREE Knitting Pattern
Plain Cuff Fingerless Gloves

If you are looking to make a pair of longer fingerless mitts, I can help you with that too! The striped fingerless glove pattern is basically the same as this one, but I’ve worked out the decreases to make them go all the way up to the elbow. You can click this link (or the photos) to read the pattern online.

And they don’t need to be striped. For the pair in the photo I used self-striping yarn so no ends to work in. But you can also make a more plain style like the green ones.

How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves - FREE Knitting Pattern

The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand. Think a younger teenager. A medium is an average lady’s hand. I’m a medium when it comes to rubber gloves and I designed the medium mitt to fit my hand. Large is for a larger size hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each.


Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media. You can use the links above to easily do so.

The PDF is also available for your viewing pleasure. If you are tired of the ad supported version, you can download the PDF for a small fee from my website – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves, Ravelry or Etsy. All are the same price no matter where you get it from.

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Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of light weight yarn (3 weight) will be more than enough)

Size 4 mm (US size 6) double pointed needles (or whatever size needles you need to get the correct gauge).

Stitch holder

Gauge

11 stitches = 2 inches

17 rows = 2 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1 purl 1 ribbing).

Round 13 – 15: Knit

Round 16: K1, M1, K1, M1, K30.

Round 17 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, M1, K3, M1, K30.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, M1, K5, M1, K30.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, M1, K7, M1, K30.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, M1, K9, M1, K30.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, M1, K11, M1, K30.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. K30.

Round 35 – 42: K around.

Round 43 – 47: K2tog, P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 3: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1, purl 1 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, M1, K1, M1, K34.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, M1, K3, M1, K34.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, M1, K5, M1, K34.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, M1, K7, M1, K34.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, M1, K9, M1, K34.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, M1, K11, M1, K34.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, M1, K13, M1,K34.

Round 38 – 39: Knit

Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. K34.

Round 41 – 49: K around.

Round 50 – 54: K2 tog. P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 3: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 18: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1, purl 1 ribbing).

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, M1, K1, M1, K38.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, M1, K3, M1, K38.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, M1, K5, M1, K38.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, M1, K7, M1, K38.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, M1, K9, M1, K38.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, M1, K11, M1, K38.

Round 37 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K1, M1, K13, M1, K38.

Round 40 – 41: Knit

Round 42: K1, M1, K15, M1,K38.

Round 43 – 44: Knit

Round 45: K1, place next 17 sts onto the stitch holder. K38.

Round 46 – 57: K around.

Round 58 – 63: K2tog, P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 17 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 17 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

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Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.

Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.

Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be ?

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How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!

beige owl knitted fingerless gloves

Also known as fingerless mittens, I seem to have a thing going on for this awesome owl motif. If you haven’t seen them already, I also have a Knitted Owl Slipper pattern that you may like. But more about these awesome fingerless gloves… They are fairly quick to make if you’re somewhat of an experienced knitter. If you don’t know how to knit in the round on double pointed needles (dpn), you’re in luck! I rewrote the pattern so anyone who loves the knitted owl motif, but not comfortable knitting in the round can still make an awesome pair of owl fingerless gloves. The pattern is free to read online, too! Click this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to see how to knit these flat on 2 needles instead of in the round on 4.

If you are so inclined and like to have matching sets of things, I have completed the matching hat or beanie! You could also call it a toque. Whatever floats your boat. It’s free to read on this website too. If you’d like to, click this link – How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

If you’re willing to learn how to knit on 4 needles, I’ve made a step-by-step video showing you every single round. You can watch it here if you need any help along the way – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with Owls! If you scroll down the page, I’ve also embedded the video so you won’t have to leave this page.

Regardless if knitted flat or in the round, this is also a great pattern if you have a bit of left over yarn from other knitting projects. Like enough to knit one slipper, but you’re not sure if you’ll have enough to finish the whole pair. I know. We’ve all been there.

Did you wind up here looking for the finished product and not a pattern? No worries! You can buy your very own pair either from this website here – Hand Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves or in my Etsy shop.

And due to the number of folks contacting me via email and through the comments below, I am now offering a download of this pattern! I can’t give it away for free though; there is a minimal cost. You can download it directly from this site here – Owl Fingerless Gloves, or at other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrafts.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes, and to keep the proportion of the knitted owls the same, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These are knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for the left hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.

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Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or are more plain Jane and can cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. I forgot I even had those… huh! And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I just finished another fingerless mitten pattern. It’s cleverly titled – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It also is very plain Jane and is owl free!

Things you will need:

worsted weight yarn (less than 50 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves. I know because I weighed them ?). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Needle and thread to sew on eyes

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

Cable needle

4 – 4 mm beads for eyes. You can use larger ones or very small buttons, too. I’m using some jewels I found and gluing them on.

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A Note on Sizing:

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. the Grey mittens are a medium. The beige is a small if you like your gloves a bit on the snug side. I didn’t even bother trying to model the red. They were too big. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Watch the Video!

If you are having problems with a particular row, once you push play, you can scroll through the video to find the card with the row number written on it. If you watch the video on YouTube here – How to Knit Fingerless Owls Gloves or Mitts, there are time stamps for each row in the description.

Me on YouTube knitting’ it up!

Left Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely (you need to allow the ribbing to stretch)

Round 1 – 10: K1 P1

Round 11 – 13: K around

Round 14: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18 (knitted stitches between the M1’s are the thumb increase)

Round 15: K around to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 16: K around to the P. P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 17: K1 M1 K3 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 18: Repeat round 16

Round 19: Repeat round 16

Round 20: K1 M1 K5 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 21: Repeat round 16

Round 22: Repeat round 16

Round 23: K1 M1 K7 M1 K6 P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 24: K around to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 25: Repeat round 24

Round 26: K1 M1 K9 M1 K6 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 27: Repeat round 24

Round 28: Repeat round 24

Round 29: K1 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 30: Repeat round 24

Round 31: Repeat round 24

Round 32: K1 Pass the 13 stitches to the stitch holder (the thumb stitches). K to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 33: K to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 34: K to the P. P10 K 18

Round 35: K1 P1 around. P last 2 stitches together to maintain pattern.

Round 36 – 39: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely. It needs to stretch.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Right Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely (you need to allow the ribbing to stretch)

Round 1 – 10: K1 P1

Round 11 – 13: K around

Round 14: K1 M1 K1 M1. K19. P1 K8 P1 K5 (knitted stitches between the M1’s are the thumb increase)

Round 15: K around to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 16: K around to the P. P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 17: K1 M1 K3 M1 K19 P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 18: Repeat round 16

Round 19: Repeat round 16

Round 20: K1 M1 K5 M1 K19 P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 21: Repeat round 16

Round 22: Repeat round 16

Round 23: K1 M1 K7 M1 K19 P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 24: K around to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 25: Repeat round 24

Round 26: K1 M1 K9 M1 K19 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 27: Repeat round 24

Round 28: Repeat round 24

Round 29: K1 M1 K11 M1 K19 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 30: Repeat round 24

Round 31: Repeat round 24

Round 32: K1 Pass the 13 stitches to the stitch holder (the thumb stitches). K19. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 33: K to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 34: K to the P. P10 K5

Round 35: K2tog. *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * around ending with P1.

Round 36 – 39: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely. It needs to stretch.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.


Hints and Tips

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the owl motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the owl.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.

Abbreviations:

C4F – Cable 4 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. 

C4B – Cable 4 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

K2tog – Knit 2 together