I don’t usually do posts like this but I thought I’d make it easier for everyone to get this knitting pattern collection. There is both a physical book you can get, a downloadable PDF that you can print and of course, all the individual patterns are free to read on this website if purchasing isn’t an option for you.
We’ll start with the links to the FREE, ad supported patterns. Clicking on the title will take you to the pattern page. I’ve listed the slipper patterns included in the publication below:
If you would like to purchase the paperback version of the slipper pattern collection, it’s available on Amazon only. It is very reasonably priced at $12.99 USD and shipping is included if you’re a prime member. The price is automatically converted into your county’s currency equivalent. Be sure that you order it from YOUR COUNTRY. If not you’ll be charged shipping. I’ve included the links from each country. Unfortunately, the paperback version isn’t available in very county.
If the patten collection isn’t available in your country or you would prefer a less expensive option and print it yourself, you can purchase the PDF Version from two places. Ravelry and LoveCrafts don’t allow for collections like this.
A quick note on other places that you can get this collection from. Amazon does offer the Kindle version of the slipper pattern collection in all countries. I don’t think you can print the pattern off on a Kindle. That defeats the purpose of creating this post that helps you find where you can get a physical copy of the slipper patterns.
Eight Slipper Styles to Knit
And in case you were unaware, I did another collection of my slipper patterns years ago. I never made it into a paperback (though if anyone was interested, please let me know).
You can purchase the printable PDF from the following places:
I designed these knitted adult bootie slippers to be as easy to knit as possible. They are knit flat with no extra needles or special techniques required. If you know how to cast on, purl, knit and cast off you will be more than capable of finishing these for yourself or someone else! If you’re not sure or need a little practice, clicking on any of the links below will show you how with a how-to knitting video demonstrating the technique 😉 And if you’re looking for an ad free pattern you can download to your computer, tablet or phone you can get that here – How to Knit Ribbed Adult Booties or my Etsy shop or Ravelry for a small fee.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank
The pattern is written to fit feet from a ladies size 6 – 12 and a man’s 5 – 12. I’m still on the fence as whether to design these to fit children. The sizing involves a lot of math and knitting sample sizes and I’m really not too excited about taking on either of those tasks. Let me know if you want it for kids. If there’s enough of you out there, I’ll do it.
If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons down there 👇🏼 let you do it easily and helps me immensely 😁. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch for ladies’ size 6-7 and 12 or men’s size 5-6 and 11-12.
Break yarn and pull through.
Make another slipper to match.
Sew seams and work in ends.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
Hints and Tips
When starting the slipper, leave a long length of yarn when casting on. You can use this length to sew up the back seam of the slipper and will give less ends to sew in when done.
Work in the ends and don’t just knot them off. The knots will rub on the wearer’s foot and make them decidedly uncomfortable.
When sewing the seams, be sure to yank on them a bit before working in the ends. You want as much yarn securing the seams so that the seam will stretch the length of the foot and the ankle.
When casting off for the ankle, be sure to do so loosely. It will allow the seam to stretch.
In case you’re not sure what part of the slipper you are making and how it goes together, I’ve added some pictures that will help.
How it goes together. Fold it in half and sew the seams for the toe and ankle.
There has been a bit of confusion on how to sew the seams along the back of the slippers, so I knit another pair and took a few photos to show what the back of the slipper should look like.
Below are two photos showing how to flip up the heel flap triangle and fit it into the back of the slipper. Sew the back seam down to where the top of the heel flap triangle reaches without stretching it. Sew each side of the triangle to the remaining rows along each side as shown.
This is another version of my very popular Adult Moccasin Slippers. I thought I’d jazz these slippers up a bit by adding some details to the top of the toe with a striped eyelet/chevron combo. I also made the cuff a little longer to fit even more like a bootie. I like how the final product turned out and is very gender neutral.
Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Adult Chevron Stripe Moccasin Slippers. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to the website yet 😉.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons 👇🏼 to do so easily.
This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches, knit two stitches together, yarn over and pass a slipped stitch over, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.
There is a lot of breaking and reconnecting the yarn to create the different portions of the slipper: the cuff, toe, sides and sole. I’ve created a very succinct picture tutorial showing how to work in the ends as you go so there are fewer to sew in at the end. If you do it right, you’ll only have one, and that’s the length you leave at the end to sew up the heel seam. Here’s the link to see how – Working in the Ends While Knitting. This also a handy skill to have when knitting just about anything, tbh.
Things You Need
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support my pattern writing (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I tried using some for one of the test knits for this slipper. It didn’t work. The holes and the angled striping virtually disappeared among the splotches. Also, I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend. Besides, it’s also hard to match the striping up and you waste a lot of yarn.
So here is the stuff you need…
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
Use this product to make knitted slippers less slippery.
You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
Next Row: With the WRONG side facing, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), P13, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).
🌸 Next Row: K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), K1 Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass this stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle, as if to knit, taking care not to twist. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).
Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more. You’ll have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) holes of the pattern made.
Break yarn when completed last row.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With RIGHTside facing, transfer the first 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn.
🪲 The following stitch combination is worked over the next 15 stitches(the start of the toe flap with the eyelet and chevron stripe motif). K2 (Yes, 2) Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass the stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K1 Leave the remaining 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked. You will have a line of garter (knit) stitches running along side the chevron stripes.
Next Row: K1 P13 K1. 🪲
The repeating rows are worked back and forth on the 15 stitch toe flap stitches only!
Repeat from 🪲 to 🪲 for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more times for a total of10 (11, 12, 13, 14)repeats. You’ll have 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) holes of the pattern made when counted from the beginning.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 15 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 15 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. There are (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle).
With another needle, knit the 15 stitches of the toe flap. (15 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 10 (11,12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used a double pointed needle to work my 15 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 15 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) rows
There are 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 14 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and pick up the first cast off stitch by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
This photo is taken from the right side.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).
Left edge
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).
Right edge
Next Row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side.
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
More of My Stuff on Etsy
Making the Heel
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (15 stitches).
Next Row: Knit across.
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making the adult size of this slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers ☺)
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (You’ll have 13 stitches the first time you do this.)
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K3tog K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: K2tog K1 K2tog.
Next Row: K3tog.
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily. I’ve had a number of positive reviews on Etsy from my well-slippered customers.
Hints and Tips
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. There’s a pictorial on my website that shows you how. Here’s the link – Working in the Ends While Knitting.
Abbreviations
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
PSSO – pass slipped stitch over
YO – yarn over
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
This is a simplified version of my very popular Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern. I realized that not everyone may want owls on their slippers. That a more plain slipper was something that any man, woman or child would wear as “knitted slippers” without fear of judgement (and if you’re so inclined to experience that lack of judgment, you can now buy a finished pair here – Adult Moccasin Slippers or in my Etsy shop). I’m not sure about someone who’d judge someone wearing owl slippers, but that’s really not the point. And oh yeah. The child sizes are finished! If you would like to knit up a quick pair of the child version, you can read that pattern here – FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern for Children.
Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Adult Moccasin Slippers with a Cuff. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, Google Play, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 😉.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons 👇🏼 to do so easily.
This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.
Things You Need
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
To Begin
Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42)
Knit across for 22 (24, 26, 28) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.
Toe Flap
Next row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches. Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
Knit across for 42 (44, 46, 48) rows.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (32 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the other needle unworked for now. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38)stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used a double pointed needle to work my 14 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 14 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
This photo is taken from the right side.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Left edge
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
🦋 Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Right edge
Next Row: Knit across 🦋
Repeat from 🦋 to 🦋 down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side.
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches .
More of My Stuff on Etsy
Making the Heel
🧚🏽♀️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count downtime same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making the adult size of this slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers 😉)
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. 🧚🏽♀️ Repeat from 🧚🏽♀️ to 🧚🏽♀️ until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.
Abbreviations
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something.
To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work! A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely 🥰
This is a great knitting pattern for beginners because it only uses basic stitches that are very easy master. I’ve included links in the pattern to videos on YouTube that show you how to preform each stitch, making this a great pattern to teach yourself how to knit.
This is also a great project for experienced knitters because these slippers are very quick and easy to make. The pattern enables you to make a variety of sizes, from a woman’s size 6 up to a man’s size 14.
If you are loving the free patterns, please feel free to share this pattern with anyone and everyone you think may like it. You can use any of the buttons below to share it with whatever social media accounts you have.
If you’d like to do just more than share to keep this website up and running, you can also make a donation to help with hosting costs. Go to this page – Help Support My Work to learn how you can help.
I don’t have this pattern up on my Patreon site yet, but it’s in the works. In the meantime, there are 13 patterns that you can download and print when yo support me at $4 a month. You can click this link Janis Frank on Patreon or click the button below.
If you’d rather have the ad free downloadable version of this pattern for a small fee, you can find it here – Easy to Knit Slippers or in my Etsy shop.
Things you will need:
Having a hard time finding what you need? Click any of the links below to have exactly what you require to finish these slippers mailed right to your door.
200 grams of worsted weight yarn (I find Red Heart wears well and easy to maintain).
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!
Slippers are given for a woman’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13, 14-15) or man’s sizes 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14). The foot lengths of a woman’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a man’s size 5-6 and so on.
Row 1: *K2P2* Repeat from * to* 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2 P12 Repeat from * to* 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times K2.
Row 2: *P2 K2* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. P2 K12 Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times P2.
Row 3: Repeat row 1.
Row 4: Knit across.
Repeat rows 1 through 4 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more.
Shape toe:
Next row: Repeat row 1.
Next row: Repeat row 2.
Next row: *K2tog P2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2tog. (P2tog) Repeat 5 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K2tog. [20 (24, 24, 24, 24) sts remain.]
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K1 *K2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. (P2tog) Repeat 2 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K1. [11 (13, 13, 13, 13) sts remain.]
Cut the yarn leaving approximately 12” to sew up toe seam. Draw yarn through stitches and pull tight to form toe. Bring edges together and sew half of the stitches together to form toe taking care to match the stitches together to form an invisible seam. Make another slipper to match.
To Make Heel Flap:
***For woman’s size 6-7 and man’s size 5-6 ONLY!***
With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 12 stitches along the sole edge.
Make a heal flap for the other slipper. Sew up the seams of heal flap and work in all the yarn ends.
Extra Tips
The pattern is written as simply as possible, but here are a few extra tips that may help you.
Knit what is between the * * once. Then knit whatever is between the * * again however many times more the pattern instructs you to.
When the pattern say repeat between * * however many times, knit the portion as many times as it instructs. Simply put, the slippers always have an equal number of knitted “ridges” and purled “valleys” on each side of the sole. There are 4 “ridges” and 3 “valleys” on the smallest size and 5 “ridges” and 4 “valleys” on all the other sizes.
When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. You can use darker or variegated yarn but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.
Happy knitting!
If you have any questions or comments you can reach me through my contact page.
This pattern enables you to sell or give away anything you may make with it. It does NOT allow you to redistribute, sell, give away or copy the pattern in any way without WRITTEN permission.
Hand knit slippers are wonderful, but it’s always nice to be able to make a fancier pair, especially if you are making them as a gift. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for girls from size 9 up to a woman’s size 12. You can keep scrolling or click here to read the child pattern.
The stitches used to make the slippers are very basic and this pattern includes detailed instructions and step by step photos that show how to create the bows. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.
If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting on, knit stitch, purl, bind off, knit 2 together, draw through, and how to pick up stitches to make the heel.
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Somehow found yourself on this page and absolutely LOVE these but don’t know or have the time to knit yourself a pair. I sell them right here too! Here’s the link to this shameless plug – Custom Order Bow Slippers
Things you will need:
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200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).
Row 3: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).
Purl the next stitch*
K24 Repeat from * to * K5.
(Row 3 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch* K24 Repeat from * to * K5.
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: Repeat row 3.
Row 8: Repeat row 2. The bow portion will look like this.
Row 9: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.
Knit the next stitch.
Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).
K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.
(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.
The bow portion will look like this.
Row 10: Repeat row 2.
Repeat rows 3 to 10 3(3, 4, 4) more times.
Next row:K2tog K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to *K3 K2tog. (42 sts)
Next row: K5 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K5.
Next row: K2tog K2 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K2 K2tog. (40 sts)
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. (40 sts)
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
🍄 Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3.
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3.
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3.
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.
Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams, work in the ends and enjoy!
Child Slippers size 9 – 3
Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 9-10 (11-12, 13-1, 2-3)
Cast on 34
Row 1: K3 P1 K3 P1 K18 P1 K3 P1 K3
Row 2: K4 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K4
Row 3: K3 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K3
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: Repeat row 3.
Row 8: Repeat row 2.
Row 9: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K3.
Row 10: Repeat row 2.
Repeat rows 3 to 10 1(1, 2, 2) more times.
Next row: K2tog K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to *K1 K2tog. (32 sts)
Next row: K3 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K3.
Next row: K2tog *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K2tog. (30 sts)
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
🍔 Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2. 🍔
Repeat from 🍔 to 🍔 0 (0, 1, 1) times more.
Form Toe:
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K9 P1 K10 P1 K9.
Repeat these two rows 0 (3, 0, 2) times more.
Next row: K2tog K26 K2tog. (28 sts)
Next row: K8 P1 K10 P1 K8.
Next row: K2tog K24 K2tog. (26 sts)
Next row: K7 P1 K10 P1 K7.
Next row: K2tog across. (13 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K2tog 3 times K1 K2tog 3 times (7 sts).
Next row: Knit across.
Break yarn and draw yarn through stitches to gather together to finish the toe.
Form Heel:
With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.
Row 1 – 2 : Knit across.
Row 3: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)
Row 4 – 5: Knit across.
Row 6: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)
Row 7 – 8: Knit across.
Row 9: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)
Row 10 – 11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)
Row 13 – 14: Knit across.
Row 15: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)
Row 16: Knit across.
Bind off.
Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams and work in ends.
Hints and tips:
When creating the strands, pull apart the 3 stitches passed over to the other needle. This allows for some additional slack in the strand across the 3 unworked stitches.
Sometimes the bows will appear lopsided. If you put your knitting needle under the 3 strands and pull gently on one side and then the other, you can easily even them out.
This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurments such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.
Abbreviations:
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
sts – stitches
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.
What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.
This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.
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Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
To Begin
Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)
🌺 Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.
Row 3 – 4: K across. 🌺
Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)
Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.
Break yarn when completed row 2.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With RIGHTside facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches(the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
🍎 Next 2 Rows: Knit across.
Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. 🍎
Repeat from 🍎 to 🍎 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.
With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap.
With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38)stitches on this needle.
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
How the needle arrangement should look.
Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.
Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif. I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern. The horizontal ridges look the same for you.
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONGside facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
💋 Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Next Row: Knit across 💋
Repeat from 💋 to 💋 down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continue to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
Making the Heel
🍄 Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)
The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges when making the larger sizes.
The above photo shows 9 rows of ridges.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).
Picking up the stitch on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across 🍄
Repeat from 🍄 to🍄 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.
🌻 Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. 🌻
Repeat from 🌻 to 🌻 until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!!
Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.
Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.
Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.
If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
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There is a certain charm to handmade slippers. Whether they be knitted or crocheted, it is always nice to be able to give someone a handmade gift, even if that gift is for yourself! Made with basic crochet stitches, you can make these very cute and practical slippers for just about anyone. With this pattern you can make slippers from a child’s size 11 to 4, a women’s size 5 to12 and a men’s size 6 to 11). This pattern includes instructions detailing how to make the adorable flower, though the more manly types may not appreciate the extra splash of colour.
If you would prefer to have a permanent copy of this pattern on your smartphone, tablet or computer, you can also download it directly from my website here: Crocheted Ribbed Slippers. A new window will open when you click the link so you won’t lose this page.
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The first set of brackets are are written for children’s sizes (11-12, 1-2, 3-4). The second set of brackets are women’s sizes (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12) and men’s (*-*, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11). Men’s size 6-7 are the same as a women’s 7-8. A men’s 8-9 the same as a woman’s size 9-10. A men’s 10-11 the same as a woman’s size 11-12. There is no men’s size 4-5 given.
Ch (22, 26, 30) (30, 32, 32, 36). Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. Ch 1, turn.
(21, 25, 29 sts) (29, 31, 31, 35 sts)
Row 2: Sc in back loops of next (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts. Hdc in next (9, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11) sts. Sc in back loops of next (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts. Ch 1, turn. (The sc in the back loops forms the ribbed pattern.)
Row 3: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (9, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11) hdc. (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (6.5, 7.5, 8.5) (8.5, 9, 9.5, 11) cm from the edge. (21, 25, 29 sts) (29, 31, 31, 35 sts)
Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, 3 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (23, 27, 31 sts) (31, 33, 33, 37 sts)
Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (11, 11, 11) (11, 13, 13, 13) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (9, 10, 11) (11, 12, 13, 14) cm from the edge.
Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4,4) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (3, 3, 3) (3, 5, 5, 5) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4,4) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25, 29, 33 sts) (33, 35, 35, 39 sts)
Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (6, 8, 10)(10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (11, 13, 14)(14, 15, 16, 17) cm from the edge.
Next row: Ch (6, 6, 6)(6, 8, 8, 8), turn. (You should have the ch 1 from your previous row already completed.) Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. (6, 8, 10)(10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (31, 35, 39 sts)(39, 43, 43, 47 sts)
Next row: Ch (7, 7, 7) (7, 9, 9, 9), turn. Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. 10 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (37, 41, 45 sts) (45, 51, 51, 55 sts)
Next row: (12, 14, 16) (16, 18, 18, 20) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (12, 14, 16) (16, 18, 18, 20) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (13.5, 15, 17) (17, 18, 19, 20.5) cm from edge.
Shape Toe:
Children’s Size (11-12)
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 13 hdc, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (29 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (23 sts)
Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (21 sts)
Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), 1 hdc, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (11 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (12 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Children’s Size (1-2)
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (31 sts)
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), sc in back loop, 11 hdc, sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)
Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (23 sts)
Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), sc in back loops, 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, sc in back loops *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (15 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (16 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Children’s Size (3-4) Women’s Size (5-6)
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), sc in back loops, 13 hdc, sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (35 sts)
Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)
Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), 2 sc in back loop, 11 hdc, 2 sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop in each st. (14 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Women’s Size (7-8, 9-10) Men’s Size (6-7, 8-9)
Next row: 18 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 11 hdc, 2 sctog, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (49 sts)
Next row: 18 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog* (repeat from * to * 5 times more) in back loops, 13 hdc, *2 sctog, sc* (repeat from * to * 5 times more) in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (37 sts)
Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (35 sts)
Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog* (repeat from * to * 3 times more) in back loops, 11 hdc, *2 sctog, sc* (repeat from * to * 3 times more) in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (14 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Women’s Size (11-12) Men’s Size (10-11)
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 5 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 5 times more). Ch 1, turn. (43 sts)
Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 11 hdc, 2 sctog, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (41 sts)
Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sc in back loop, 13 hdc, 2 sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (31 sts)
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), 2 sctog twice, 3 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (17 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (18 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Make the Heel
With the wrong side facing you and toe facing down.
Row 1: Sc in the each hdc of sole of slipper along starting edge (the loop left from the original chain stitches). Ch 1, turn. (9, 9, 9,)(9, 11, 11, 11 sts)
Row 10: Sc in back loops. Do NOT make ch st or turn! Sc in each row and stitch around the edge of the slipper.
Row 11: Sc in each st around. Finish off.
Flower:
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (second ch counts as 1 sc) work 9 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to ch 1. (10 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3. Sl st in the same sc as join. *Sl st in next 2 sc. In same st as the 2nd sl st, ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3. Sl st in the same sc.* Repeat from * to * around. End with st st in the next sc. (5 flower petals).
Pull up a Loop
Pull up a loop in each stitch as if you were going to make a single crochet. Don’t work the loop. Leave the loop on the hook.
Leave the loop on the hook. 12 sts will make 13 loops including the original ch 1.
Draw the yarn through all the loops.
Cut the yarn and pull the yarn through all the loops.
Draw tight.
Tips and Hints:
If your slipper is a little too big when you finish, one way to tighten it up a bit is to decrease some stitches when making the second round on the edging. Sc two stitches every 4 or 5 stitches will help.
To add a little more awesomeness to your slipper you can layer multiple flowers. Make each flower a different colour or you can change the size of your hook to make each flower smaller and stack them.
Work in your ends; don’t knot them off. Knots rub and can hurt the wearer’s foot.
Abbreviations:
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
trc – treble crochet
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
2 sctog – single crochet 2 stitches together
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.
Learn to knit comfy, cozy cabled slippers. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for children from a small size 3 to large 3, and a woman’s and man’s size 4 to 12. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.
Even if you have never knit a cable before, have no fear! This pattern includes detailed instructions and numerous photos on how to create the cable. And if you need to brush up on some of the more basic stitches, you can learn how to knit with my YouTube videos.
Not wanting to be online all the time? You can also download the ad free version of this pattern, for a small fee, here – How to Knit Cable Slippers and in my Etsy shop.
If you are enjoying the free knitting patterns, don’t forget to learn more about how you can Help Support My Work. Using those share buttons right up there 👆🏼 is a great way to start! Letting others know about this pattern is good for everyone.
Things you will need:
If you are having a difficult time locating the supplies you need to make these slippers, click any link below to have it mail right to your door.
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).
With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.
Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.
Row 4: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)
Row 5 – 7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)
Row 9 – 11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)
Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.
Row 16: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)
Row 17 – 19: Knit across.
Bind off.
When shaping the toe, once completed the row, you should have 2 knit stitches before the purl of the cable at the beginning of the row and 2 stitches after the last purl after the cable at the end of the row regardless of the size. Depending on the size you either knit 2 stitches together twice or knit two stitches together once and knit the one remaining stitch. Regardless of size this gives the two stitches.
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Adult Sizes:
Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such:
Women’s 4-5 (6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men’s 4 (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
A woman’s size 6-7 is the same as a man’s size 5-6. A woman’s size 8-9 is the same as a man’s size 7-8. etc.
Knit the last stitch for women’s sizes 8-9 and 10-11 and the men’s sizes 7-8 and 9-10 only.
Next row: Knit across.
Pull yarn through.
Form Heel:
With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.
Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.
Row 4: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)
Row 5 – 7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)
Row 9 – 11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)
Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.
Row 16: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)
Row 17 – 19 : Knit across.
Row 20: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)
Row 21 – 23 : Knit across.
Row 24: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)
Row 25 – 27: Knit across.
Bind off.
Hints and tips:
This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurements such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.
The children’s slipper is made with a smaller cable than the adult sizes. It uses C1F and C1B to allow for the smaller foot size.
C1F (Cable 1 forward) is done the same way as the C2F, but instead of knitting and pulling forward 2 stitches, only knit and pull one stitch forward.
C1B – (Cable 1 backward) is done the same way as the C2B, but instead of knitting and pulling of 2 stitches to the back of your work, only knit and pull one stitch back.
Knit the first 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2.)
With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle.
Pull the stitches towards the back of your work.
Knit the next 2 stitches.
Knit the stitches from the cable needle.
Cabling described without photos:
C2F – Cable 2 forward
With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C2B – Cable 2 backward
With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.
Abbreviations:
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
sts – stitches
C1F – Cable 1 forward (this is done the same way as the C2F, but instead of knitting and pulling forward 2 stitches, only knit and pull one stitch forward). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the front of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle.
C1B – Cable 1 backward (this is done the same way as the C2B, but instead of knitting and pulling of 2 stitches to the back of your work, only knit and pull one stitch back). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle.
C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C2B – Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
This pattern gives you permission to sell or give away anything that you make with this pattern. It does NOT give you permission to give away, reproduce in any form or sell this pattern.
After a bit of math and a little tweaking of the results, the child sizes of the FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern is finally available! Because these are made for little feet, they often don’t need much yarn. This makes them a great way to use up the smaller leftover bits from larger projects. Not to mention, these tend to sell like hotcakes at local farmers’ markets, craft fairs and consignment shops. The smaller pairs are “so cute” making for an easy sale and the return on the investment of your time is great! They’re quick to make and since the yarn has already been bought for a larger project, anything made from the leftovers, like these child shippers, is gravy, baby!
And yes, you have my permission to sell or give away anything you make from my patterns. You’re just not allow to redistribute any of the patterns themselves in any form. Linking to and sharing is always welcome though! You can use those buttons 👇🏼 to do so easily.
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If you can’t help financially, I totally get it. Sharing on your social media is the next best thing.
Please note, this isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles, but no worries! I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.
And if you are concerned with the number of ends you’ll need to weave in when done, I’ve also created a tutorial to help you with that too! It’s so much easier to work the ends in as you go, though there will be a few you’ll have to do (i.e. when you sew up the seam for the heel), but if you are interested in easing your work load, here’s the link showing you How to Weave in the Ends While Knitting. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page 😉. There’s also a clickable card in the scrolling free pattern pics running across the top of this website if you need to find the page again.
Things You Need
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. I really enjoying watching how the colours pool on the finished project. Little weird, I know… And In case you were thinking of trying self-striping yarn. Don’t. It looks terrible.
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart and Bernat worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
Use this product to help prevent slippers from sliding on slick floors
You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
I’m using a colour code to denote the number of stitches for the various sizes. I hope this helps when making the sizes of slippers.
Size
Length
1-2
4 inches
10 cm
3-4
4.5 inches
11.4 cm
5-6
5 inches
12.5 cm
7-8
5 3/4 inches
14.5 cm
9-10
6 inches
15 cm
11-12
6 3/4 inches
17 cm
13-1
7 1/4 inches
18.5 cm
2-3
8 1/4 inches
21 cm
4-5
8 3/4 inches
22 cm
All measurements are approximate. Knitted slippers are very forgiving for size and foot shape.
To Begin
Cast on 18 (20,22, 24,26,28,30, 32,34)
Knit across for 10 (12,12, 14,14,16,18, 20,20) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) to create the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) toe flap stitches only!
Knit across for 18 (20,22, 24,26,30,32, 36,40) rows.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit these stitches. Pick up 9 (10,11, 12,13,15,16, 18,20) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are now on ONE needle – 15 (17,18, 20,21,24,26, 28,31) stitches
With another needle, knit the 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches on the other needle unworked for now.
With another needle, pick up 9 (10,11, 12,13,15,16, 18,20) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches on the next needle. There are now 15 (17,18, 20,21,24,26, 28,31) stitches on this needle.
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used double pointed needles because they were handy and I don’t like the longer needles flopping and waggling about while I knit. Regular knitting needles work perfectly fine, too!
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 4 (4,6, 6,8,8,8, 10,10) rows.
There are 2 (2,3, 3,4,4,4, 5,5) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the sizes 2-3 and 4-5.
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap
The 2 ridges for small size 1-2 and 3-4.
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 5 (5,7, 7,9,9,9, 11,11) stitches of the toe flap.
Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
This photo is taken from the right side.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. – 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) stitches
Left edge
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
🦋 Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Right edge
Next Row: Knit across 🦋
Repeat from 🦋 to 🦋 down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
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Making the Heel
If You Have 6 Stitches
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (Click here to see the ridges along the edges of the cuff.) K2tog 3 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
If You Have 8 Stitches
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (Click here to see the ridges along the edges of the cuff.) K2tog 4 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
If you have 10 or More Stitches
🧚🏽♀️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making this style of slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers because it was easier 😉)
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. 🧚🏽♀️ Repeat from 🧚🏽♀️ to 🧚🏽♀️ until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Because smaller kid-lettes tend to have chunkier legs (aka – cankles 😉), which is so gosh-darn cute btw, don’t go too crazy with the length.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is roughly 1 stitch every ridge.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. And yes, this is the third time I’m sharing it, but I made a photo tutorial showing how to do this. You can see it here – How to Work in the Ends as You Knit.
Abbreviations
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something. Especially on the smaller slippers that involve so many different stitch counts for the numerous sizes.
To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work! A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely 🥰
I’ve decided to share one of my most favourite things to knit…slippers just like my mom used to make. I’ve given the pattern so anyone can create them for adults from a woman’s size 7-12 or a man’s 6-11. This is by far my most popular pattern I have ever written and has been dowloaded and viewed thousands of times through various online channels.
If you’re not a fan of being online, you can also download the ad free PDF version of the pattern directly from the download section of this website for a small fee – How to Knit Adult Slippers. If that is too much of a hassle, you can also find it in my Etsy shop or Ravelry for the same small fee.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank
As my latest addition, I’ve also converted this pattern to children’s sizes. You can use this link to see my FREE children’s knitted slippers pattern. Both of these patterns are great to practice if you are a new knitter. Make sure you maintain the correct gauge! The sizing for the slippers is based on it. If you match your gauge to mine then the sizing should work out correctly.
I’ve also added all of the the videos for the necessary knitting stitches you’ll need to make these slippers.You can watch them right on this site by clicking this link – Basic Knitting Stitches. I’ve also embedded the complete step-by-step video showing how to make these. Scroll down or click here to the end of the page to watch it right here. FYI – all the links on this page open in a new page so you won’t lose this one.
I’ve also added links to the specific stitches that you need within the pattern itself. For example, if you forget how to gather stitches to form the toe, there’s a link right there to go to the video.
If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons above let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Don’t think you can make these yourself? Or maybe you would like some examples. Either way you can check them out in my online shop.
Things you will need:
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (this is an estimate. One large ball from any retailer will do.)
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!
Slippers are given for a woman’s size 7-8 (9-10, 11-12) or a man’s sizes 6-7 (8-9, 10-11). The foot lengths of a man’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a woman’s size 7-8 and so on.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 36 (42, 48) more times TOTAL.
Shape toe:
Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K14 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 5 more times. P1 {This is K1 P1 Ribbing.}
Next Row: With wrong side facing you *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K12 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.
Repeat these 2 rows for 22 (26, 30) more rows. 24 (28, 32) rows ribbed TOTAL.
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 12 times. K1. K2tog 7 times P1. 21 stitches remaining.
Next Row: P8 K6 P7
Next Row: K2tog 10 times. K1. 11 stitches.
Next Row: P5 K3 P3.
Last Row: Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
To form back flap of heel:
With right side of work facing you pick up 14 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper. A lot of people have messaged me over the years not knowing how to do this. I made a video! It’s actually for another pattern but is exactly the same as this. Here’s the link to the video – Picking up Stitches for the Heel
Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form, physical or digital, unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. If you would like to link back, that always awesome and feel free to do so. Happy knitting!!
Awesome cozy knitted slippers for women and men with a delightful cabled owl motif. The inspiration came to me while scrolling through the wonders of the internet and stumbling on other knitted slippers that were made in one piece on circular needles but back and forth. I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out, the pattern wasn’t in English, so I decided to design my own!
I came up with a very basic knitted slipper design, but then was inspired to make the top of the toe something special. I loved the look of a knitted cable owls on hats, mitts and scarves and next thing you know, this pattern was born! But also realize not everyone wants owls. That’s why I’ve written another pattern with no owls. You can see that pattern here – Free Knitted Slipper Pattern
Like most of my knitting patterns, this one is available for download, ad free, for a very small fee here – Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern or from my Etsy Shop. If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons 👇🏼 to do so easily.
Please be warned, this is not a pattern for beginners. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.
Things You Need
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern.
You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
Row 7: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
Row 32: Purl across. Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Row 33: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 15 (17, 20, 22)stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 15 (17, 20,22) stitches. Pick up 13 stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (28, 30, 33, 35) stitches on this needle)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the other needle unworked for now. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 13 stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the next needle. (28, 30, 33, 35 stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 14 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 9 (11, 13, 15, 17) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 6 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
(The photo above is taken from the wrong side. It’s hard to see it from the right side)
(This photo is taken from the right side.)
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
(Left edge)
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
*Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).Click herefor some help on picking up the correct cast off stitches.
(Right edge)
Next Row: Knit across*
Repeat from * to * down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
More of my stuff on Etsy
Making the Heel
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, count down 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches)
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges on the right edge for women’s size 8-9 or men’s size 7-8.
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges on the left edge for women’s size 8-9 or men’s size 7-8.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 7 (8, 9, 10,11) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (10 stitches)
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (8 stitches)
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (6 stitches)
Next row: Knit across.
❤︎ Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the edge in the space beneath the next ridge. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch along the edge beneath the next ridge.
Next Row: Knit across. ❤︎
Repeat from ❤︎ to ❤︎ until there are no more ridges.
Last Row: Pick up a stitch along the top. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch along the top.
Cast off.
Hints and Tips
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to make. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every other row.
An odd row is always the right side of your work; an even row is the wrong side
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
C4F (cable 4 forward) – With the cable needle, transfer the next 2 stitches to your cable needle. Bring these stitches to the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C4B (cable 4 back) – With the cable needle, transfer the next 2 stitches to your cable needle. Bring these stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the needle. Knit the stitches from the cable needle.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.
To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work! A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely 🥰
Aren’t these the cutesiest things! This is one of my first patterns I ever wrote and I still make these for anyone who wants a pair.
A few basics before we start…to make these you need to know how to knit on double pointed needles and knit in the round. This is not a beginner project! It’s not tough to make these slippers, but you may need to practice a bit first. There is a FREE sock tutorial on my blog which is an excellent place to learn to make a basic pair of socks so you can master the technique.
To cast on, I cast all the stitches on one needle, then take the first 1/3 of the stitches and slip them onto a free needle, then take the last 1/3 of the stitches and put those on another needle, leaving the remaining 1/3 on the original needle. This method helps me to not twists my stitches. I then start to knit.
If you appreciate the free knitting patterns and how-to videos, please consider helping to off-set the cost of the web hosting for this site. You can go to my Help Support My Work page to make a one time donation or subscribe to give a little every month. Can’t contribute financially? That’s cool too! Sharing this page with everyone you know will help me immensely. You can use the links I’ve provided below.
Not wanting to read this behemoth online and would prefer to download the ad free version this knitting pattern for a small fee/donation? You can read it here – How to Knit Adult Sheep Slippers. You can also download the PDF from myEtsy Shop or from Ravelry.
Things You Need:
Clicking any links below to get everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.
Worsted weight yarn (I’m a fan of Red Heart only because of it’s price, it’s easy to find, wears and washes well).
Also, check your tension first! With worsted weight yarn, you’ll need a tension of:
10 stitches = 2 inches
14 rows = 2 inches
The abbreviations are standard:
K = Knit
P = Purl
K2 tog = Knit 2 stitches together
P2 tog = Purl 2 stitches together
FS = Fluff Stitch. This is the loop stitch and is described in detail here. There is also a complete how-to video at the end of this pattern. You can watch that here – Fluff or Loop Stitch Video
Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need.
So let’s go…
Cast on 36 stitches
Rounds 1-15: *K2 P2; repeat from * around
Round 16 – 20: Knit
Heel flap:
Slip last 9 stitches from round 17 to free needle, knit next 9 stitches from next needle onto needle with the 9 slipped stitches from round 17. You will have four needles and will look like this:
Transfer the three stitches on the two needles onto the back needle. Split these 18 stitches between two needles. It will look like this:
You will work these split 18 stitches later to form the top of the foot.
Turn your work. You are now creating the heel flap from the slipped stitches and will work in rows along the 18 stitches that are on the single needle.
With the wrong side (Purl side) facing you. Purl the row. Turn.
With the right side (Knit side) facing you. Knit the row. Turn.
Repeat stocking knit (Purl one row, Knit one row) until the flap measure approximately 2 1/2 inches ending with a Purl row. Turn.
With right side (Knit side) facing you K8 stitches, K2 tog, K8. Turn. (17 stitches on the needle)
Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form the gusset. Transfer the 18 held stitches to one needle. Knit the 18 held stitches. Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form gusset.
K4 stitches of heel. Slip remaining 5 stitches onto next needle. It will look like this:
Your needles will hold:
15 stitches side of foot
18 stitches top of foot
14 stitches side of foot
Next round: Knit. Knit another 15 sts until you are at the start of the 18 sts that make up the top of the foot.
Next round:Turn your work inside out!
With wrong side facing you (Purl side). P1, P2tog. P23 P2tog. P1.
Top of foot (over the 18 stitches): P1. FS16
To make the Fluff stitch (FS): *Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up
To make the Fluff stitch (FS): Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up & over) CLOCKWISE around the needle and the index finger of your LEFT hand TWICE. Leave these loops on your finger until you are finished knitting the entire stitch!
Wrap the yarn ONCE around the needle only.
Pull all 3 loops of yarn through stitch as knitting a regular stitch.
Insert the needle in your LEFT hand through these three loops and transfer these 3 loops onto the LEFT hand needle.
Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.
Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.
The stitch is now completed.
Pattern continued…. P1 in the last remaining stitch from the needle that was holding the 18 stitches that formed the top of the foot.
Next round: P18, FS16, P1. * Repeat from * to * until measures the length you want less 2 1/2 inches. To measure lay the sock flat and measure from the needle holding the side gusset stitches to the back of the heel.
Women’s
Men’s
Sizes (USA)
In Inches
Size (USA)
In Inches
5
8 11/16
7
9 11/16
5 ½
8 13/16
7½
9 13/16
6
9
8
10
6½
9 3/16
8½
10 3/16
7
9 5/16
9
10 5/16
7½
9 ½
8
9 11/16
8½
9 13/16
9
10
9½
10 3/16
10
10 5/16
Sizes larger than 10 5/16 inches need extra stitches cast on to go around the foot. Recommended for experienced knitters only!
Next round: P35
Next round: P17. Flip your work right side out! With Knit side facing.
Transfer stitches onto two needles. 7 stitches and 8 stitches on each needle.
Break yarn leaving enough to graft toe and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.
Graft toe:
With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.
Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.
Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.
🌺 Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. 🌺
Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 until there are no stitches left on either needle.
Pull the yarn tight.
Toe is now grafted.
Make another slipper to match!
Extra Knitting Tips:
Check your tension first! There’s nothing more disappointing than putting a bunch of effort into a project and then having it turn out to be the wrong size. The gauge of the rows is not so important for this project as you can make it to fit any size foot. The number of stitches per inch is VERY important! Make sure your gauge is correct.
Work in your ends instead of just knotting them off. Knots can make your foot sore when you step on them or if they rub on your toe.
This pattern can make any size slipper up to about a man’s size 9 or a woman’s size 10. If you want a bigger size make sure your increase the heel flap length and pick up more stitches when you make the gusset of the sock.
You don’t have to use googly eyes and pompoms for the face but I like to. I’ve also used buttons and they have also turned out well. I prefer to use Beacon Quick Grip glue to stick on the eyes and noses. It’s water proof and it works. I even tested it in my washing machine and dryer and everything remained in place. It didn’t discolour or become unglued.
If you would like to make the ears out of felt like I did, make a template from paper first and see if you like the size and how it fits. Cut a second template smaller than the main colour for the inside of the ear. I glued the pieces together and then sewed the ears to the second row in from face. Fiddle around with it to see where you like the placement best.
You can also make knitted ears with a bit of pink yarn, if you have it, or out of the yarn you knitted the slippers with originally. I made triangles and sewed them together. The inside pink was 2 stitches cast on less than the outside white portion. For example, Cast on 12 sts for the white and 10 sts for the pink.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.
I can’t believe I originally wrote this pattern 9 years ago. 🤯 But when something works and people like it, you might as well keep it around. Even after all these years, these slippers still are one of my favourite things to knit.
This pattern includes instructions to make slippers that will fit adults from a woman’s size 7-12 or a man’s 6-11. Men’s size 12 -13 are given separately following the general pattern. I sometimes get requests for larger slipper sizes and this was my response to that.
If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there ☝🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.
Not a fan of reading knitting patterns online or would prefer to print this off? I also have the PDF version of this pattern available as a free download from my site too. Click either of these links to get the ad free download for a small fee – How to Knit Slippers Just Like Granny Made or in my Etsy shop.
Things you need:
Click on any of the links below to get everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!
Slippers are given for a woman’s size 7-8 (9-10, 11-12) or man’s sizes 6-7 (8-9, 10-11). The foot lengths of a man’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a woman’s size 7-8 and so on.
Cast on 40 sts
Row 1: P13 K1 P12 K1 P13
Row 2: K13 P1 K12 P1 K13
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 26 (30, 34) more times.
Shape toe:
Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K1 P12 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times.
Next Row: With wrong side facing you (K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K12 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.
Repeat these 2 rows for 18 (20, 22) more rows. 20 (22, 24) rows ribbed.
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. P2tog 5 times P1. K2tog 7 times P1. 21 stitches remaining.
Next Row: P8 K6 P7
Next Row: K2tog 3 times. P2 tog 3 times. K2tog 4 times K1. 11 stitches.
Next Row: P5 K3 P3.
Last Row: Draw yarn through loops and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
Form back flap of heel:
With right side of work facing you, draw up 14 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper.
Row 1: Knit across.
Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3: K2tog K10 K2tog. 12 stitches
Row 4: Purl across.
Row 5: Knit across.
Row 6: P2tog P8 P2tog. 10 stitches.
Row 7: Knit across.
Row 8: Purl across.
Row 9: K2tog K6 K2tog. 8 stitches
Row 10: Purl across.
Row 11: Knit across.
Row 12: P2tog P4 P2tog. 6 stitches.
Row 13: Knit across.
Row 14: Purl across.
Row 15: K2tog K2 K2tog. 4 stitches
Row 16: Purl across.
Row 17: Knit across.
Row 18: P2tog twice. 2 stitches.
Row 19: Knit across.
Bind off
Create cuff:
With your double pointed needles and with the right side of your slipper facing you pick up 36 (38, 40) stitches around the stockinette stitch portion of slipper. Be sure to include 2 stitches bound off for the heel flap. Divide evenly on 3 of the double pointed needles.
Bind off loosely. If too tight it will be hard to get the slipper on.
Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.
My stuff on Etsy:
Instructions for men‘s size 12 – 13
Yarn, gauge and needles remain the same
Cast on 42
Row 1: P13 K1 P14 K1 P13
Row 2: K13 P1 K124P1 K13
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 38 more times.
Shape toe:
Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K1 P14 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times.
Next Row: With wrong side facing you (K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K14 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.
Repeat these 2 rows for 24 more rows. 26 rows of ribbed.
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. P2tog 6 times P1. K2tog 7 times P1. 22 stitches remaining.
Next Row: P8 K7 P7
Next Row: K2tog 3 times. P2 tog 4 times. K2tog 4 times. 11 stitches.
Next Row: P4 K3 P4.
Last Row: Draw yarn through loops and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
Form back flap of heel:
With right side of work facing you, draw up 16 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper.
Row 1: Knit across.
Row 2: Purl across.
Row 3: K2tog K12 K2tog. 14 stitches
Row 4: Purl across.
Row 5: Knit across.
Row 6: P2tog P10 P2tog. 12 stitches
Row 7: Knit across.
Row 8: Purl across.
Row 9: K2tog K8 K2tog. 10 stitches.
Row 10: Purl across.
Row 11: Knit across.
Row 12: P2tog P6 P2tog. 8 stitches
Row 13: Knit across.
Row 14: Purl across.
Row 15: K2tog K4 K2tog. 6 stitches.
Row 16: Purl across.
Row 17: Knit across.
Row 18: P2tog P2 P2tog. 4 stitches
Row 19: Knit across.
Row 20: Purl across.
Row 21: K2tog twice. 2 stitches.
Row 22: Purl across.
Row 23: Knit across.
Bind off
Create cuff:
With your double pointed needles and with the right side of your slipper facing you pick up 44 stitches around the stockinette stitch portion of slipper. Be sure to include 2 stitches bound off for the heel flap. Divide evenly on 3 of the double pointed needles.
Row 1 – 8: *(K1 P1) Repeat 21 more times.
Row 9 – 14: Knit
Bind off loosely. If too tight it will be hard to get the slipper over the wearer’s heel.
Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.
Hints and Tips:
As some final hints, don’t feel that the cuff needs to be the same colour as the slipper itself. A nice change is to make the cuff in a complimentary colour, especially if you have used variegated yarn. You can also use this pattern to use up some of your left over wool by making the toe (ribbed section) a different colour also.
This is also a great pattern to use if you have a variegated or any other colour changing yarn. Because there isn’t any pattern created by the stitches, it allows to show off the colours really well.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions on my contact page. You can also use the comment section below.
These two slipper styles are actually the same knitting pattern but showcase one side of the work or the other. They are easily made with the same basic knitting stitches and if you can make one style, you can make the other! The pattern is for slippers from a men’s size 6 to 13 and for a women’s 6 to 13. I’ve also provided direct links in the pattern to my YouTube videos demonstrating the knitting stitches required if you need a little help.
If you have never picked up stitches or knitted in the round, this is a great pattern to learn. I made a YouTube video showing how to do this for another pattern (you can read that pattern here – How to Knit Adult Booties), but the technique is similar. You can watch the video snippet right here – Picking up Stitches to Make the Heel the Cuff. The stitch pattern used this video is different, but would still look ok when done the final project.
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And if you’re wanting to get off the internet and would prefer to have this on your phone, tablet or computer, you can download this pattern from my website here – Two Slipper Styles with One Pattern. The download is for a PDF that you can print if you so desire.
Things you will need:
Click any of the links below to have everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.
Start cuff: With double pointed needles, pick up 18 sts over half of one side, 18 sts on the other, and transfer the 4 stitches created when making the heel. Pick up the stitches over the first half of the slipper and leave the rest for the toe. Fold the sides of the slipper together to give an approximate of where to start picking up stitches on the other side of the slipper. You can also count back 18 stitches along the edge for a starting point.
Row 1: P3 K1 repeat 9 more times for total of 40 sts.
Heel and cuff Slipper “B” With right side facing pick up 14 stitches.
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across
Repeat the two rows one more time
Row 5: K2tog K10 K2 tog
Row 6: P12
Row 7: K12
Row 8: P2tog P8 P2tog
Row 9: K10
Row 10: P10
Row 11: K2tog K6 K2 tog
Row 12: P8
Row 13: K8
Row 14: P2tog P4 P2tog
Row 15: K6
Row 16: P6
Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog
Row 18: P4
Start cuff: With double pointed needles, pick up 18 sts over half of one side, 18 sts on the other, and transfer the 4 stitches created when making the heel. Pick up the stitches over the first half of the slipper and leave the rest for the toe. Fold the sides of the slipper together to give an approximate of where to start picking up stitches on the other side of the slipper. You can also count back 18 stitches along the edge for a starting point.
Row 1: K3 P1 repeat 9 more times for total of 40 sts.
Repeat for 8 rows total.
Bind off loosely.
Sew seams and work in ends of the yarn.
Extra hints and tips:
When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. A lighter colour with flecks also works quite well. You can use darker or variegated yarn, but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.
The “right side” of the slipper is the side you’ve chosen to be on the outside. For Slipper “A” it is the side that has a more striped appearance. Slipper “B” looks more ribbed. No one said that the heel and cuff had to match anyways, so you may want to switch them up!
Abbreviations:
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
P2tog – purl 2 together
sts – stitches
If you have any questions or comments you’d rather keep private, you can send me an email through my contact page.
Socks are one of those things that you can make as individual as you are. Made in the round on 4 double pointed needles, it may seem intimidating at first, but really it’s not. And with a little practise you’ll get just as hooked as me.
If you are just getting started one standard ball of yarn, like the kind you can get at Walmart, should be enough to make a pair of ankle socks as pictured above. Choose an acrylic yarn or a blended worsted weight. You can use wool, but cleaning them may be a hassle (shrinkage) and cotton yarn doesn’t stretch enough to make a comfortable pair of socks. It also gets up your nose when working with it. Just want full disclosure here 😉
To cast on, I cast all the stitches on one needle, then take the first 1/3 of the stitches and slip them onto a free needle, then take the last 1/3 of the stitches and put those on another needle, leaving the remaining 1/3 on the original needle.This method helps me to not twists my stitches. I then start to knit in the round.
Included with this pattern are photos of every step showing how to graft the toe, or sewing the toe stitches together. Not only does this technique work for socks, but it is the same procedure for grafting the stitches for mittens. If sone correctly, it makes for a nearly perfect seam. Keep scrolling down the page to see the instructions and pics.
This pattern is available as a read online only. No download is available. Sorry. There are so many sock patterns already, I’m sure a quick search will find one you can download.
A quick tip about working with double pointed needles (DPN). I find that using wood or bamboo a bit better than working with the metal needles. Sometimes, when working with the metal needles, you’ll find that you get a line that runs the length of your sock where you start working on a new needle. For some reason, and for me, using bamboo prevents this.
Also, check your tension first! I use a size Size 7 needle (Size 4.5 if your Canadian) with worsted weight yarn and with the tension of:
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10 stitches = 2 inches
14 rows = 2 inches
Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need.
There needs to be some stretch to be able to get them on.
Rounds 1-15: K2 P2
Rounds 16-17: Knit
Heel flap:
Slip last 9 stitches from round 17 to free needle, knit next 9 stitches from next needle onto needle with the 9 slipped stitches from round 17. You will have four needles and will look like this:
Transfer the three stitches on the two needles onto the back needle. Split these 18 stitches between two needles. It will look like this:
You will work these split 18 stitches later to form the top of the foot.
Turn your work. You are now creating the heel flap from the slipped stitches and will work in rows along the 18 stitches that are on the single needle.
With the wrong side (Purl side) facing you. Purl the row. Turn.
With the right side (Knit side) facing you. Knit the row. Turn.
Repeat stocking knit (Purl one row, Knit one row) until the flap measure approximately 2 1/2 inches ending with a Purl row. Turn.
With right side (Knit side) facing you K8 stitches, K2 tog, K8. Turn. (17 stitches on the needle)
Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form the gusset. Transfer the 18 held stitches to one needle. Knit the 18 held stitches. Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form gusset.
K4 stitches of heel. Slip remaining 5 stitches onto next needle. It will look like this:
Your needles will hold:
15 stitches side of foot
18 stitches top of foot
14 stitches side of foot
Next 2 rounds: Knit.
Next round: K12, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K11.
Next 2 rounds: K45
Next round: K11, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K10.
Next 2 rounds: K43
Next round: K10, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K9.
Next 2 rounds: K41
Next round: K9, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K8.
Next 2 rounds: K39
Next round: K8, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K7.
Next 2 rounds: K37
Next round: K7, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K6.
Next round: K35
Repeat the last round (K35) until measures the length you want less 2 1/2 inches. To measure lay the sock flat and measure from the needle holding the side gusset stitches to the back of the heel.
Transfer stitches onto two needles. 7 stitches and 8 stitches on each needle.
Break yarn leaving enough to graft toe and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.
Graft toe:
With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.
Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown. Drop this stitch.
Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.
🌺 Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. 🌺
Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 until there are no stitches left on either needle.
Pull the yarn tight.
Toe is now grafted.
Make another sock to match!
Extra Sock Knitting Tips:
Check your tension first! There’s nothing more disappointing than putting a bunch of effort into a project and then having it turn out to be the wrong size. The gauge of the rows is not so important for this project as you can make it to fit any length of foot. The number of stitches per inch is VERY important! Make sure your gauge is correct.
Work in your ends instead of just knotting them off. Knots can make your foot sore when you step on them or if they rub on your toe.
This pattern can make any size sock up to about a man’s size 10 or a woman’s size 11.
This pattern will make ankle length socks. To make a longer sock like these purple ones at the beginning of this post, just knit more plain rows (rows 16-17) before you start to make the heel flap. If you want a sock that will fit further up the calf you will need to cast on more stitches and then decrease evenly to the number of stitches required to make the foot. This takes some tinkering and can be hard if you’re new to sock knitting.
A good point to remember if you are making a larger size sock has to do with decreasing stitches for the gusset. A good rule of thumb is to decrease to the amount of stitches to the amount you originally cast on. For example if you are making an ankle sock to fit a larger size foot, you can cast on 40 stitches, make the heel flap 1/2 inch longer, pick up 12 stitches along each side of the foot for the gusset and decrease stitches until you are down to 39 stitches around the foot.
And if you are making a larger sock, and this is from personal experience, write down how many stitches you cast on, how long you make the heel flap, and how many stitches you pick up along the edge. It can be difficult to recall the numbers if you have to leave the project for a while.
And for the sake of a little shameless self promotion…if you learn how to knit socks you can also knit these sheep slippers. You can read the pattern online here Learn to Knit Adult Sized Sheep Slippers. There are lots of photos and detailed descriptions on how to make them.
If you are enjoying the free patterns and picture tutorials, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and it helps me so much. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. If you would like to link back, that always awesome and feel free to do so. Happy knitting!
I’ve been asked by a number of people to knit them slippers that are a little more snug. A surprising number of people like to sleep with slippers on and have a difficult time finding ones the don’t keep coming off. Now, I can’t guarantee that these will stay on your feet all night but with the extended cuff, these knitted adult bootie slippers will stay on much better than any of the other knitted slippers that I make. This particular knitted slipper design fits feet that are a woman’s size 6 – 11 and a man’s size 5 – 10. I was going to make them for larger and smaller sizes, but there was no demand for it 😕
This is also a great pattern to practice your knitting stitches. In particular, picking up stitches and working on double pointed needles, AKA working in the round. Double pointed needles seems very intimidating but really it’s the same as regular knitting needles; you just don’t flip your work back and forth. If you’ve never done it before, don’t worry! In the tutorial below I show every single step including how to pick up the stitches for the heel and cuff. Once you watch how it’s done you’ll wonder why you never did it before.
If you need a more detailed video that shows you each step from casting on to sewing in the ends, scroll to the bottom of the page. You can watch the video without leaving this page. You can also download the ad free version of this pattern for a small fee here – How to Knit Adult Booties, on Ravelry or from my Etsy Shop.
Things you will need:
If you are having a tough time finding what you need to make these slippers, click any link below to have all your supplies devoured right to your door.
I use this yarn a lot
250 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).
Break yarn and draw yarn through the stitches to form the toe.
Form Heel:
Need a bit of extra help with the heel and cuff? Scroll to the top of the page for a shorter video demonstrating where and how to do it.
With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts on one of your double pointed needles along the sole of the slipper. Work the stitches with another of your double pointed needles.
Row 1-4: Knit across.
Row 5: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)
Row 6-7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)
Row 9-10: Knit across.
Row 11: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)
Row 12-13: Knit across.
Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)
Row 15-16: Knit across.
Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)
Row 18-19: Knit across.
Row 20: K2tog twice. (2 sts)
Row 21-22: Knit across.
Keeping the two stitches on your double pointed needle, pick up 36(36, 36) stitches to form the cuff. Pick up 17 stitches down one side, evenly spaced, along the length to where you knitted two together. Starting at where you knitted two together along the other edge, pick up another 17 stitches, evenly spaced. There will be 36 stitches total.
Row 1-10: *K2 P2* Repeat from *to* 7 more times. 8 times total for matching ribbed effect.
Row 11-13: Knit around.
Cast off loosely.
Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams and work in ends.
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Because it seemed wrong to not have the children’s version of this knitting pattern, I did all the math and here it is! I’ve made the pattern fit children’s feet from a small size 5 up to a teen size 5. That means you can make a slipper to fit feet that measure 5 1/4″ to 9″ long. Anything larger than that can be made with my other free pattern entitled How to Knit a Pair of Adult Slippers. And just like that pattern, I’ve included links to all the knitting stitches you need to make the slippers. By clicking the links you’ll go to my YouTube channel and I will show you how to do the required stitch or technique. The ad free download for this pattern is available here for a very small fee from this website – How to Knit Children’s Slippers, Etsy and Ravelry.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank
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Like the free videos and patterns? Then please share my work on social media! Those handy little icons above let you do it easily and help me so much. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work and keep the site free for everyone.
A couple of quick notes before you get started…be sure to use the correct size when ending the toe. The number of stitches knitted together differ depending on the size. Be sure to find the one that is for the size of slipper you are making. Scroll down the page to find the size you need. The same holds true for forming the heel flap. Be sure you pick up the right number of stitches or the heel flap won’t be the right length.
Without further ado, let’s get knitting! And in case you need a little extra help, there’s a complete step-by-step instructional video at the bottom of this page.
Things you will need:
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
You can try this product to keep your slippers from sliding on slick floors.
You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is a lot less but better to have too much. I like to use Red Heart because of price, wearability, ease of maintenance, and it’s easy to find online and IRL).
Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from *2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) more times K9 (K9, K10, K10, K11, K11, K14) *(P1 K1) Repeat from *2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) more times. P1 {This is K1 P1 Ribbing.}
Next Row: With wrong side facing you *(K1 P1) Repeat from *3(3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times K7 (K7, K8, K8, K9, K9, K12) *(P1 K1) Repeat from *3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times.
Repeat these 2 rows for 12 (12, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20) more rows. 14 (14, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22) rows ribbed TOTAL.
End toe for size 5-6 and 7-8
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 11 times. K1. (12 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P5 K3 P4
Next Row: K2tog 6 times. (6 stitches. remaining)
Next Row: P3 K1 P2
Last Row:Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
End toe for sizes 9-10, and 11-12
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. K1. K2tog 6 times. K1. (15 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P6 K4 P5
Next Row: K2tog 7 times K1. (8 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P4 K2 P2
Last Row:Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
End toe for size 13-1 and 2-3
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 16 times. K1. (17 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P7 K4 P6
Next Row: K2tog 8 times K1. (9 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P4 K2 P3
Last Row:Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches)and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
End toe for sizes 4-5
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 9 times. K1. K2tog 8 times K1. (19 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P7 K6 P6
Next Row: K2tog 9 times K1. (10 stitches remaining)
