If you’ve run across any of my slipper patterns before this, one thing you’ll be very familiar with is my unreasonable dislike for sewing seams on projects. I equally dislike working in ends (go to How to Work in Ends While Knitting for more on this). I have a embarrassing amount of nearly finished projects that collect in a box with unsewn seams and dangling ends. Yes. I just admitted that to everyone. No shame in my game.

This is another attempt to make this happen. It’s quite difficult to make something seamless when the design calls for it to be knit flat on 2 needles. This automatically means there are going to be ends that need to meet at some point. The idea is to make them meet as you knit so they are permanently fixed together with no extra work.

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This pattern starts with the cast on stitches going around the foot (sans heel). You’ll then work your way up to the top cuff. I’ve pointed out where we’re starting in this photo. 

I have a bunch of other slipper patterns you can read right here on my website. If you go to this page – FREE Slipper Patterns, you can see everything I have written to date. If you’re looking for other extra thick slippers like this, I’ve written another entitled Easy to Knit Beginner Slipper Pattern – Knit Flat with Bulky Yarn.

As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here – Bulky Yarn Slippers for Adults – Knit on Straight Needles. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts, Etsy and Ravelry. If the link isn’t working I haven’t upload the pattern to the site yet.

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Now that we’re done all that, if you just need the pattern, you can click this button. Please note, if you click the button you’ll skip the other info like gauge, how much yarn, needle size, etc.

Abbreviations

st – stitch

sts – stitches

sl – slip the stitch

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over.

K – knit

P – purl 

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how. 

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how. 

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

K3tog – knit 3 stitches together

P2tog – purl 2 stitches together

P2tog TBL – purl 2 together through the back loop.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) standard balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.

or 

Super Bulky yarn – 2 standard balls of ONE colour with matching lot numbers (90 yards/82 m). 

One ball makes one slipper. There will be some yarn left over from each ball.

Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).

Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

8 sts – 5 cm (2″) 

7 rows – 5 cm (2”) 

Sizes are written as such:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Cast on 56 (60, 64, 68)

Knit across for 6 (6, 8, 8) rows.

Next Row: K26 (28, 30, 32) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K26 (28, 30, 32).

Next Row: P25 (27, 29, 31) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P25 (27, 29, 31).

Next Row: K24 (26, 28, 30) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K24 (26, 28, 30).

Next Row: P23 (25, 27, 29) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P23 (25, 27, 29).

Next Row: K22 (24, 26, 28) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K22 (24, 26, 28).

Next Row: P21 (23, 25, 27) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P21 (23, 25, 27).

Next Row: K20 (22, 24, 26) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K20 (22, 24, 26).

Next Row: P19 (21, 23, 25) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P19 (21, 23, 25).

Next Row: K18 (20, 22, 24) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K18 (20, 22, 24).

Next Row: P17 (19, 21, 23) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P17 (19, 21, 23).

Next Row: K16 (18, 20, 22) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K16 (18, 20, 22).

Next Row: P15 (17, 19, 21) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P15 (17, 19, 21).

Next Row: K14 (16, 18, 20) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K14 (16, 18, 20).

Next Row: P13 (15, 17, 19) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P13 (15, 17, 19). If making women’s size 6-7 or men’s size 6, go to the row marked with ☺.

*Next Row: K4 M1. K0 (10, 12, 14). K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K0 (10, 12, 14). M1 K4.

Next Row: P2 PM1. P0 (12, 14, 16). P2tog TBL. P2tog. P0 (12, 14, 16). PM1 P2.*

Repeat from * to * 0 (1, 2, 3) times more.

☺Knit across for 6 (6, 8, 8) rows.

Cast off loosely.

Making the Sole

This photo will help you in how and where to pick up the following stitches. Hold your work so it looks like this with the pointy end up. The RED arrow is for right handed knitters.

Pick up 6 sts at the toe in bottom loop of cast on stitches. (3 sts on either side of middle clearly marked with p2tog line.)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K6. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. 

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K8. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. 

Next Row: Knit across.

If you are making women’s sizes 6-9 or men’s sizes 6-8, skip to row marked with ♥

For all other sizes continue as follows:

Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K10. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. 

Next Row: Knit across.

♥ ☼ Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches.

Next Row: Knit across. ☼ 

Repeat rows marked with ☼ to ☼ down the length of the sole. You will ALWAYS have 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle.

Forming the Heel

There are two ways to do this. The easiest way is to make a small triangle.

Using the 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle.

♦ Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog.

Next Row: Knit across. ♦

Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until 5 (5, 6, 6) sts

If making women’s sizes 6-9 or men’s sizes 6-8:

Next Row: K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam. 

If making women’s sizes 10-12 or men’s sizes 9-12:

Next Row: K2tog 3 times.

Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam. 

For all sizes:

Flip up the triangle to fit into the back of the heel. Sew seams along sides of triangle and up the back of the slipper.

Or

Make the seams as you go:

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you if the photos aren’t enough.

Using the 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle,

♦ Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to last 4 sts. K2tog twice. Pick up a st along side of the slipper and work in the ends. 

Next Row: Knit across. ♦

Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until 6 (6, 8, 8) sts.

§ Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog across. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.

Next Row: Knit across. §

If making women’s sizes 10-12 or men’s sizes 9-12, repeat from § to § once.

Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog.

Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam. Sew the seam up the back of the slipper and work in the ends.

Hints and Tips

You can make the slippers truly seamless when you are making the seamed triangle for the back of the heel. Continue picking up stitches on each side while working up the heel seam. Continue doing this using the 5 sts and repeating as follows: 

Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.

Next Row: Knit across.

I didn’t include it in the instructions because… I didn’t. It was already complicated enough for the heel.

If you are up in arms about how many ends there are to sew in, you can work the ends in while you are knitting. I have a detailed photo tutorial on my website here that you can watch – How to Work In the Ends While Knitting.

Play around with the colours you choose if you’re using worsted weight yarn. You can get some neat effects by blending a solid colour with a variegated one, or by using colours that are the same colour but a different tone. I used both of these techniques for the red booties.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or duplicate this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].