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Free Knitted Slipper Pattern – With Owls!

Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern

Awesome cozy knitted slippers for women and men with a delightful cabled owl motif. The inspiration came to me while scrolling through the wonders of the internet and stumbling on other knitted slippers that were made in one piece on circular needles but back and forth. I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out, the pattern wasn’t in English, so I decided to design my own!

I came up with a very basic knitted slipper design, but then was inspired to make the top of the toe something special. I loved the look of a knitted cable owls on hats, mitts and scarves and next thing you know, this pattern was born! 


Like most of my knitting patterns, this one is available for download here – Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern. If you enjoy this pattern and my other free patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons πŸ‘‡πŸΌ to do so easily.


Please be warned, this is not a pattern for beginners. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable needle

4 – 4 mm beads for eyes. You can use larger ones or very small buttons, too.

Needle and thread to sew on eyes

Tapestry needle to sew in ends

Gauge

With size4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

Instockinette

4” = 20 sts

4” = 30 rows

Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 44 (48, 54, 58)

Row 1- 6: Knit across. Break yarn when completed row 6.

Owl Slipper Knitting Pattern

Toe Flap

Row 7: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

Row 8: Purl across (14 stitches; wrong side)

Row 9: Knit across. (Right side)

Row 10: Purl across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: Purl across.

Row 13: K2 P1 K8 P1 K2

Row 14: P2 K1 P8 K1 P2

Row 15: K2 P1 C4F C4BP1 K2

Row 16: As row 14 (Wrong side)

Row 17: As row 13

Row 18: As row 14

Row 19: As row 13

Row 20: As row 14

Row 21: As row 15 (Cables; Right side)

Row 22: P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P2

Row 23: K2 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K2

Row 24: As row 22

Row 25: As row 23 (Right side)

Row 26: As row 22

Row 27: As row 23

Row 28: As row 22

Row 29: As row 15 (Cables; Right side)

Row 30: P2 K10 P2 (Wrong side)

Row 31: Knit across.

Row 32: Purl across. Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.


Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Row 33: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 15 (17, 20, 22)stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 15 (17, 20,22) stitches. Pick up 13 stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (28, 30, 33, 35) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the other needle unworked for now. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 13 stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the next needle. (28, 30, 33, 35 stitches on this needle)

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern. Setting up your needles for the sides.

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 14 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 9 (11, 13, 15, 17) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 6 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern - Toes

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers Pattern - This Stitch

(The photo above is taken from the wrong side. It’s hard to see it from the right side)

Knitting Pattern

(This photo is taken from the right side.)

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Knitting Pattern - Owl Slippers

(Left edge)

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

*Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).Click herefor some help on picking up the correct cast off stitches.

Owl Slippers Knitting Pattern - Pick up a Stitch

(Right edge)

Next Row: Knit across*

Repeat from * to * down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

More of my stuff on Etsy

Making the Heel

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, count down 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches)

Owl Slippers knitting pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges on the right edge for women’s size 8-9 or men’s size 7-8.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges on the left edge for women’s size 8-9 or men’s size 7-8.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 7 (8, 9, 10,11) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (10 stitches)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (8 stitches)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (6 stitches)

Next row: Knit across.

❀︎ Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the edge in the space beneath the next ridge. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch along the edge beneath the next ridge.

Next Row: Knit across. β€οΈŽ

Repeat from β€οΈŽ to β€οΈŽ until there are no more ridges.

Last Row: Pick up a stitch along the top. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch along the top.

Cast off.


Hints and Tips

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to make. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every other row.

An odd row is always the right side of your work; an even row is the wrong side

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

C4F (cable 4 forward) – With the cable needle, transfer the next 2 stitches to your cable needle. Bring these stitches to the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B (cable 4 back) – With the cable needle, transfer the next 2 stitches to your cable needle. Bring these stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the needle. Knit the stitches from the cable needle.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.

To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work!  A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely πŸ₯°


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Adorable Sheep Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Adult Sheep Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

Aren’t these the cutesiest things! This is one of my first patterns I ever wrote and I still make these for anyone who wants a pair.

A few basics before we start…to make these you need to know how to knit on double pointed needles and knit in the round. This is not a beginner project! It’s not tough to make these slippers, but you may need to practice a bit first. There is a FREE sock tutorial on my blog which is an excellent place to learn to make a basic pair of socks so you can master the technique.


To cast on, I cast all the stitches on one needle, then take the first 1/3 of the stitches and slip them onto a free needle, then take the last 1/3 of the stitches and put those on another needle, leaving the remaining 1/3 on the original needle. This method helps me to not twists my stitches. I then start to knit. 

If you appreciate the free knitting patterns and how-to videos, please consider helping to off-set the cost of the web hosting for this site. You can go to my Help Support My Work page to make a one time donation or subscribe to give a little every month. Can’t contribute financially? That’s cool too! Sharing this page with everyone you know will help me immensely. You can use the links I’ve provided below.


Not wanting to read this behemoth online and would prefer to download this pattern? You can read it here – How to Knit Adult Sheep Slippers.

Things You Need:

Clicking any links below to get everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.

Worsted weight yarn (I’m a fan of Red Heart only because of it’s price, it’s easy to find, wears and washes well).

Size 8 US double pointed needles (Size 5.00 mm if you’re Canadian) aka – dpn

Wiggley Eyes

Felt ( For ears and optional)

2 small buttons or small pom poms for the nose.

Darning needle to work in ends

Adult Sheep Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

Gauge:

Also, check your tension first! With worsted weight yarn, you’ll need a tension of: 

10 stitches = 2 inches 

14 rows = 2 inches 

The abbreviations are standard:

K = Knit

P = Purl

K2 tog = Knit 2 stitches together

P2 tog = Purl 2 stitches together

FS = Fluff Stitch. This is the loop stitch and is described in detail here. There is also a complete how-to video at the end of this pattern. You can watch that here – Fluff or Loop Stitch Video

Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need. 

So let’s go… 

Cast on 36 stitches 

Rounds 1-15: *K2 P2; repeat from * around 

Round 16 – 20: Knit 

Heel flap:

Slip last 9 stitches from round 17 to free needle, knit next 9 stitches from next needle onto needle with the 9 slipped stitches from round 17. You will have four needles and will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Transfer the three stitches on the two needles onto the back needle. Split these 18 stitches between two needles. It will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

You will work these split 18 stitches later to form the top of the foot.

Turn your work. You are now creating the heel flap from the slipped stitches and will work in rows along the 18 stitches that are on the single needle.

With the wrong side (Purl side) facing you. Purl the row. Turn.

With the right side (Knit side) facing you. Knit the row. Turn.

Repeat stocking knit (Purl one row, Knit one row) until the flap measure approximately 2 1/2 inches ending with a Purl row. Turn.

With right side (Knit side) facing you K8 stitches, K2 tog, K8. Turn. (17 stitches on the needle)

Next row: P8, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K1, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P2 , P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K3, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P4, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K5, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P6, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K7, K2 tog, K1.

You will now start knitting around.

Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form the gusset. Transfer the 18 held stitches to one needle. Knit the 18 held stitches. Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form gusset.

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

K4 stitches of heel. Slip remaining 5 stitches onto next needle. It will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Your needles will hold:

15 stitches side of foot

18 stitches top of foot

14 stitches side of foot

Next round: Knit. Knit another 15 sts until you are at the start of the 18 sts that make up the top of the foot.

Next round: Turn your work inside out! 


With wrong side facing you (Purl side). P1, P2tog. P23 P2tog. P1. 

Top of foot (over the 18 stitches): P1. FS16

To make the Fluff stitch (FS): *Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up

To make the Fluff stitch (FS): Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up & over) CLOCKWISE around the needle and the index finger of your LEFT hand TWICE. Leave these loops on your finger until you are finished knitting the entire stitch!

Knitting the loop stitch

Wrap the yarn ONCE around the needle only.

Knitting the loop stitch

Pull all 3 loops of yarn through stitch as knitting a regular stitch.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert the needle in your LEFT hand through these three loops and transfer these 3 loops onto the LEFT hand needle.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.

Knitting the loop stitch
Knitting the loop stitch

The stitch is now completed.

Pattern continued…. P1 in the last remaining stitch from the needle that was holding the 18 stitches that formed the top of the foot.

Next round: P45 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P21, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

Next round: P43 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P19, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

Next round: P41 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P17, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

Next round: P39 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P15, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

Next round: P37 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P13, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

*Next round: P35 

Next round: P18, FS16, P1. * Repeat from * to * until measures the length you want less 2 1/2 inches. To measure lay the sock flat and measure from the needle holding the side gusset stitches to the back of the heel.

Women’s Men’s
Sizes (USA)In InchesSize (USA)In Inches
58 11/1679 11/16
5 Β½8 13/167Β½9 13/16
69810
6Β½9 3/168Β½10 3/16
79 5/16910 5/16
7Β½9 Β½
89 11/16
8Β½9 13/16
910
9Β½10 3/16
1010 5/16
Sizes larger than 10 5/16 inches need extra stitches cast on to go around the foot. Recommended for experienced knitters only!

Next round: P35 

Next round: P17. Flip your work right side out! With Knit side facing. 


Toe:

Rounds 1-10: Knit (35 stitches)

Round 11: K1, K2 tog, K11, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K1 

Round 12: Knit 

Round 13: K1, K2 tog, K9, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K10, K2tog, K1 

Round 14: Knit 

Round 15: K1, K2 tog, K7, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K8, K2tog, K1 

Round 16: Knit 

Round 17: K1, K2 tog, K5, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K1 

Round 18: Knit 

Round 19: K1, K2 tog, K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K1 

Your needles will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Transfer stitches onto two needles. 7 stitches and 8 stitches on each needle.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft toe and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Graft toe:

With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.



Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.


🌺 Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.


Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. 🌺


Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 until there are no stitches left on either needle.


 Pull the yarn tight.


Toe is now grafted.

Make another slipper to match!


Extra Knitting Tips:

Check your tension first! There’s nothing more disappointing than putting a bunch of effort into a project and then having it turn out to be the wrong size. The gauge of the rows is not so important for this project as you can make it to fit any size foot. The number of stitches per inch is VERY important! Make sure your gauge is correct.

Work in your ends instead of just knotting them off. Knots can make your foot sore when you step on them or if they rub on your toe.

This pattern can make any size slipper up to about a man’s size 9 or a woman’s size 10. If you want a bigger size make sure your increase the heel flap length and pick up more stitches when you make the gusset of the sock.

You don’t have to use googly eyes and pompoms for the face but I like to. I’ve also used buttons and they have also turned out well. I prefer to use Beacon Quick Grip glue to stick on the eyes and noses. It’s water proof and it works. I even tested it in my washing machine and dryer and everything remained in place. It didn’t discolour or become unglued.

If you would like to make the ears out of felt like I did, make a template from paper first and see if you like the size and how it fits. Cut a second template smaller than the main colour for the inside of the ear. I glued the pieces together and then sewed the ears to the second row in from face. Fiddle around with it to see where you like the placement best.

You can also make knitted ears with a bit of pink yarn, if you have it, or out of the yarn you knitted the slippers with originally. I made triangles and sewed them together. The inside pink was 2 stitches cast on less than the outside white portion. For example, Cast on 12 sts for the white and 10 sts for the pink.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.



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Diamonds Dishcloth – FREE Knitting Pattern

Diamonds Dishcloth Knitting Pattern

The dishcloth obsession continues, though I am getting a bit weary of these. Time to get around to making more art pieces.

So I’m providing this in two sizes – roughly 7 inches square and 8 inches square. The smaller size seemed almost a smidgen too small but the larger one seemed a bit larger than I would like. I suppose it could have easily been fixed with changing needle sizes but I figured I let others deal with that. With that said, this knitting pattern is written accordingly. The larger size repeat counts are in brackets.


It’s important to note that for this specific knitting pattern, odd rows are NOT the right side of your work. The dropping and picking up stitches happens on what would be usually considered the WRONG side or all even rows. So in short, the right side of your work is all the EVEN rows.

Also, I’ve included a bunch of photos to help you along with YO, dropping stitches, slipping stitches and making the crossed over stitches. The YO, slipping and dropping stitches are standard stitches and if you’re an experienced knitter, you probably won’t need the photos. I’ve included the photos as you go along in the pattern, but if you already feel comfortable with these stitches, the pattern is also written without the photos further down the post here – the pattern without the photos.

Diamonds Dishcloth Knitting Pattern

This knitting pattern turned out to take a lot more effort and photos than I originally thought it would. To make it easier on everyone, the downloadable version of this knitting pattern is on its way. I’ll need to reformat the entire pattern and that’s going to take some time. I’ll add the link here when it is finished.


If you are loving the free patterns, please consider helping me out offsetting the hosting costs of the website. You can learn more by going to this page – Help Support My Work. If you can’t make a small donation, that’s OK πŸ˜„. Instead, you can help others see my work by using the share buttons up there ☝🏼. It’s such an easy thing to do and helps me so much.

Things you will need:

Click any of the links below to get everything you need to make this dishcloth.

Size 3.75 mm (size 5 US) crochet hook (for edging. You may need larger or smaller depending on your tension)

1 ball of crochet cotton yarn (the 1.5 oz balls are more than enough)

Darning needle to work in the ends

Size 5 mm (size 8 US) single point knitting needles

Cable needle – VERY optional and only necessary if dropped stitch is unraveling.

Pattern With the Photos

Cast on 34 (40 sts)

Row 1: Purl across (wrong side)

Row 2: Knit across (right side)

πŸ¦‹ Row 3: P2 YO 🐌 P5 YO P1 YO 🐌 Repeat from 🐌 to 🐌 3 (4) more times. P5 YO P3

Row 4: K2 SL1

Slipping a stitch
Arrow points to YO stitch. Stitch on the right is the one you slip onto the working needle.
Slipping the stitches
Slipping the stitch from your needle onto your working needle. Do NOT work this stitch!

Drop the YO

Drop this stitch
Let this stitch fall off your needle. Do NOT work it in any way!
YO dropped

K4 πŸ› SL1, Drop the YO, SL1 K4 πŸ› Repeat from πŸ› to πŸ› 3 (4) more times. SL1, Drop the YO, K2

Row 5: P2 SL1 P4 πŸ₯ SL2 P4 πŸ₯ Repeat πŸ₯ to πŸ₯ 3 (4) more times. SL1 P2

Row 6: K2 πŸ¦‰ Drop the next stitch

Drop this stitch
This is the stitch you’re going to drop.
Stitch dropped
Stitch dropped.

K2. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle.

Pick up dropped stitch

Knit this stitch.

Pick up the dropped stitch
Drop stitch knitted.

SL2.

Slip these two stitches onto your working needle.

Drop the next stitch.

Two stitches passed over and stitch dropped.

Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle.

Stitches passed back to non-working needle.

Pick up and knit the dropped stitch.

Picking up the stitch.
Working the stitch.
Cross over complete.

K2 πŸ¦‰ Repeat from πŸ¦‰ to πŸ¦‰ 4 (5) more times. K2

Row 7: 🐊 P4 YO P1 YO P1 🐊 Repeat from 🐊 to 🐊 4 (5) more times. P4

Row 8: πŸ¦ƒ K4, SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO πŸ¦ƒ Repeat πŸ¦ƒ to πŸ¦ƒ 4 (5) more times. K4

Row 9: 🐬 P4 SL2 🐬 Repeat from 🐬 to 🐬 4 (5) more times. P4

Row 10: K2 πŸ¦† SL2, Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle and knit this stitch. K2. Drop the next stitch. K2. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. πŸ¦† Repeat from πŸ¦† to πŸ¦† 4 (5) more times. πŸ¦‹

Repeat from πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹ 4 (5) more times. (Rows 3 – 10 make up one repeat of the diamond motif).

Next row: Purl across

Next row: Cast off. Do NOT cut the yarn, unless you are making the edging a different colour.

Edging:

To make things as easy as possible, I’ve embedded the (very) old video I made demonstrating how to do this technique. It’s basically a backwards single crochet (Bsc) that creates a more ropey kind of look.

You may have to play around a bit with the size of hook that’s going to work the best for you. For me, based on my tension for knitting the dishcloth and tension for how I crochet, a 3.75 mm crochet hook worked best.

Row 1: With right side facing, and in the first cast off stitch that you can easily insert your hook, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc in every 2nd cast off stitch along the top and bottom edges

Skip every other stitch.
Insert your hook like this.
Hook the yarn and pull through.
Hook the yarn again and pull through the two loops. Stitch made.

Bsc in every other row along the sides.

Insert hook in this stitch when working along the rows.

Join to the start of the row. Work in ends.

I found there is enough slack that you don’t need multiple stitches in the corner.

Pattern Without the Photos

Cast on 34 (40 sts)

Row 1: Purl across (wrong side)

Row 2: Knit across (right side)

πŸ¦‹ Row 3: P2 YO 🐌 P5 YO P1 YO 🐌 Repeat from 🐌 to 🐌 3 (4) more times. P5 YO P3

Row 4: K2 SL1, Drop the YO, K4 πŸ› SL1, Drop the YO, SL1 K4 πŸ› Repeat from πŸ› to πŸ› 3 (4) more times. SL1, Drop the YO, K2

Row 5: P2 SL1 P4 πŸ₯ SL2 P4 πŸ₯ Repeat πŸ₯ to πŸ₯ 3 (4) more times. SL1 P2

Row 6: K2 πŸ¦‰ Drop the next stitch, K2. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle. Knit this stitch. SL2 Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. K2 πŸ¦‰ Repeat from πŸ¦‰ to πŸ¦‰ 4 (5) more times. K2

Row 7: 🐊 P4 YO P1 YO P1 🐊 Repeat from 🐊 to 🐊 4 (5) more times. P4

Row 8: πŸ¦ƒ K4, SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO πŸ¦ƒ Repeat πŸ¦ƒ to πŸ¦ƒ 4 (5) more times. K4

Row 9: 🐬 P4 SL2 🐬 Repeat from 🐬 to 🐬 4 (5) more times. P4

Row 10: K2 πŸ¦† SL2, Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle and knit this stitch. K2. Drop the next stitch. K2. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. πŸ¦† Repeat from πŸ¦† to πŸ¦† 4 (5) more times. πŸ¦‹

Repeat from πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹ 4 (5) more times. (Rows 3 – 10 make up one repeat of the diamond motif).

Next row: Purl across

Next row: Cast off

Edging:

The edging is a backwards single crochet (Bsc) that creates a more ropey kind of look.

You may have to play around a bit with the size of hook that’s going to work the best for you. For me, based on my tension for knitting the dishcloth and tension for how I crochet, a 3.75 mm crochet hook worked best.

Row 1: With right side facing, and in the first cast off stitch that you can easily insert your hook, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc in every 2nd cast off stitch along the top and bottom edges. Bsc in every other row along the sides.

Join to the start of the row. Work in ends.

I found there is enough slack that you don’t need multiple stitches in the corner.

Hints and Tips:

You may have to play around a bit with the size of the crochet hook you use.

I haven’t had any problem with the dropped stitch unraveling while knitting other stitches. If you do, you can use a cable needle to hold it in place.

Try a variation in colours too! You could make each diamond repeat a different colour. What’s marked with πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹. And you can also make the edging a different colour like I did. It would be a great way to use up the extra bits of cotton yarn you have.

Abbreviations:

Non-working needle – Left needle if you are right handed. Right needle if you are left handed)

YO – Yarn Over. When doing a YO for the purl stitch, pull your yarn to the back of your work (like you were going to knit) and purl the next stitch. The yarn will form an extra stitch on your needle.

How to YO when purling.
Starting the yarn over
How to YO when purling.
Pull the yarn to the back of your work
How to yarn over (YO) when purling.
Pull your yarn forward and work the stitch. Increase made.
The yarn over (increased stitched)

K – Knit

P – Purl

SL – Slip the next stitch, without working it, onto your working needle. (Right needle if you’re right handed. Left needle if you’re left handed).

Bsc – Backwards single crochet.

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Free Patterns for Cute Things

It’s been a while since I did a little research and found some great patterns that are available to read online or to download. As always, this short list is curated and all of the knitting and crochet patterns linked to are free. If you find that a link isn’t working, or the pattern is no longer free, please leave a comment below.

Easily find what you’re looking for. Enter your search term in the Google bar below.

If you know of a pattern that you think would be a great addition to one of my upcoming free pattern pages, please fill out the form to submit it – Share a Pattern.


Child Sweater Knitting Pattern

OMG! Soooooo cute! I absolutely love this knitted sweater. Gives the full instructions to make it in 4 different sizes. For sure one will be the right size for the little one you have in mind.

You can read the pattern in full here – Knitted Truck Sweater.


Crocheted Soccasins

“What is a Soccasin? It is a unisex moccasin-style slipper with a built-in sock leg to keep little feet very toasty and warm.” You can also switch up the pattern to make a ballet slipper or Mary Jane’s. I’ve given the link to the main page. The link to the pattern is here.

Read the pattern online –  Crocheted Soccasins



FREE Knitting Stitches

Not necessarily falling under the “cute” title, I think many of you will find this incredibly useful. This is a great collection of various knitting stitches to use in upcoming projects. Some are for texture, some use colour, but the collection of various stitches a guaranteed to impress.

Look at the collection of them here – Free Knit Stitches


Abominable Baby Slippers

Another of those very old patterns that’s been archived, but you can still read online. You can use this crochet pattern to make slippers that are for a new born up to 2 years old.

Read it in full online here – Abominable Baby Slippers


Just Ducky – Hat & Slipper Socks

These links are a bit more complicated and the ducky hat and the ducky slipper socks are on two separate webpages. Put them together and you get this awesome knitted combo!

Be aware that the author of this pattern doesn’t want you to sell anything you make from the patterns. It’s for personal use only.

Get the patterns here – Just Ducky Hat and Just Ducky Slipper Socks



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Cute AF Bows Dishcloth – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knitted Dishcloth Pattern - With Bows!

So social distancing and forced unemployment seems to be going well for me…or at least incredibly productive as far as my pattern designing goes. Sigh! It certainly is a weird time. Anywho…


If you’ve done a little knitting before and are looking for something that’s a bit more challenging, why not give this knitted dishcloth pattern a whirl! It’s not overly complicated and looks awesome when you’re done. If you know knitting basics, you can easily get this done in an evening over the course of a couple of hours. If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting onknit stitchpurl, and bind off.


I really like this bow motif. In case you haven’t run across my other use of these cute AF bows, check out my Easy to Knit Bows Slippers knitting pattern. The bows themselves are made as you go and guaranteed to never fall off. For convenience, I’ve included the same pictorial showing how you knit them. If you’ve already made enough bows to choke a small horse, I have the pattern written in full without all the photos – The Whole Damn Pattern Written Without the Photos.


If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons πŸ‘†πŸΌ to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

I haven’t completed the printable/downloadable version of this yet, and I may never do it. If you’d like to be able to download it, leave a comment telling me at the bottom of this page. If there’s enough of you, I just may put the effort in.

Free Knitted Dishcloth Pattern - With Bows!

Things you will need:

Click on any of the links below to get exactly what you need for this project sent right to your door.

1 ball of worsted weight cotton yarn (usually you’ll use less than one whole small 1.5 oz ball like those shown below).

Size 4.5 mm (US 7) knitting single point knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew seams and work in the ends


Gauge: 

Doesn’t really matter for this project. If you use a larger needle it will be a looser knit and may use more than one small ball of cotton yarn.

Cast on 35

Row 1 – 7: K1 across.

Row 8: K5 P25 K5

πŸ™ Row 9: K5 🐞 P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).

Purl the next stitch.

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K5🐞 Repeat from 🐞 to 🐞 2 more times.

(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 🐞 P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5🐞 Repeat from 🐞 to 🐞 2 more times.

Row 10: K5 🐒 K1 P3 K1 P5 🐒 Repeat from 🐒 to 🐒 1 more time. K1 P3 K6

Row 11: Repeat row 9.

Row 12: Repeat row 10.

Row 13: Repeat row 9.

Row 14: Repeat row 10. The bow portion will look like this.

 How to knit a bow

Row 15: K5 πŸ¦₯ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.

How to knit a bow

Knit the next stitch.

How to knit a bow

Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K1 P1 K5 πŸ¦₯. Repeat from πŸ¦₯ to πŸ¦₯ 2 more times.

(Row 15 rewritten without photos: K5 πŸ¦₯ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5πŸ¦₯ Repeat from πŸ¦₯ to πŸ¦₯ 2 more times.

The bow portion will look like this.

How to knit a bow

Row 16: As row 10

Row 17: K across

Row 18: As row 8.

Row 19: K10 πŸ¦” P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 πŸ¦” Repeat from πŸ¦” to πŸ¦” once. K5.

Row 20: K5 P5 🦜 K1 P3 K1 P5 🦜 Repeat from 🦜 to 🦜 1 more time. K5.

Row 21: As row 19.

Row 22: As row 20.

Row 23: As row 19

Row 24: As row 20

Row 25: K10. 🦈 P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 🦈 Repeat from 🦈 to 🦈 1 more time. K5

Row 26: Repeat row 20.

Row 27: Knit across.

Row 28: As row 8. πŸ™ Repeat πŸ™ to πŸ™ (row 9 to row 28 make the pattern.)

Repeat rows 9 -17 once.

Knit across 5 rows.

Cast off


The Whole Damn Pattern Without Any Photos

It’s actually very repetitive like most simple knitted dishcloth patterns.

Cast on 35

Row 1 – 7: K1 across.

Row 8: K5 P25 K5

πŸ™ Row 9: K5 🐞 P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5🐞 Repeat from 🐞 to 🐞 2 more times.

Row 10: K5 🐒 K1 P3 K1 P5 🐒 Repeat from 🐒 to 🐒 1 more time. K1 P3 K6

Row 11: Repeat row 9.

Row 12: Repeat row 10.

Row 13: Repeat row 9.

Row 14: Repeat row 10. The bow portion will look like this.

Row 15: K5 πŸ¦₯ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 πŸ¦₯. Repeat from πŸ¦₯ to πŸ¦₯ 2 more times.

Row 16: As row 10

Row 17: K across

Row 18: As row 8.

Row 19: K10 πŸ¦” P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 πŸ¦” Repeat from πŸ¦” to πŸ¦” once. K5.

Row 20: K5 P5 🦜 K1 P3 K1 P5 🦜 Repeat from 🦜 to 🦜 1 more time. K5.

Row 21: As row 19.

Row 22: As row 20.

Row 23: As row 19

Row 24: As row 20

Row 25: K10. 🦈 P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 🦈 Repeat from 🦈 to 🦈 1 more time. K5

Row 26: Repeat row 20.

Row 27: Knit across.

Row 28: As row 8. πŸ™ Repeat πŸ™ to πŸ™ (row 9 to row 28 make the pattern.)

Repeat rows 9 -17 once.

Knit across 5 rows.

Cast off

Like all of my patterns, the viewing of this patterns allows for you to give away or sell any of the physical items you make from this pattern. You are not allowed to claim this pattern as your own, give it away, sell it or redistribute it in ANY form without my WRITTEN consent.

And to those who think it doesn’t matter… meh. You may be right but it kinda makes you look like a douche. Just sayin’.


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How to Knit Slippers Like Granny Made

Knitted Slippers Just Like Granny Made Knitting Pattern

I can’t believe I originally wrote this pattern 9 years ago. 🀯 But when something works and people like it, you might as well keep it around. Even after all these years, these slippers still are one of my favourite things to knit.

This pattern includes instructions to make slippers that will fit adults from a woman’s size 7-12 or a man’s 6-11. Men’s size 12 -13 are given separately following the general pattern. I sometimes get requests for larger slipper sizes and this was my response to that.


If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there ☝🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.

Not a fan of reading knitting patterns online or would prefer to print this off? I also have the PDF version of this pattern available as a free download from my site too. Click this link to get the download – How to Knit Slippers Just Like Granny Made


Things you need:

Click on any of the links below to get everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.

200 grams of worsted weight yarn

Set of 2 size 5 mm ( US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Set of 4 size 5 mm (US size 8) double pointed needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew seams and work in the ends.


Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Slippers are given for a woman’s size 7-8 (9-10, 11-12) or man’s sizes 6-7 (8-9, 10-11). The foot lengths of a man’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a woman’s size 7-8 and so on.

Knitted Slipper Just Like Granny Made

Cast on 40 sts

Row 1: P13 K1 P12 K1 P13

Row 2: K13 P1 K12 P1 K13

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 26 (30, 34) more times.

Shape toe:

Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K1 P12 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times.

Next Row: With wrong side facing you (K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K12 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.

Repeat these 2 rows for 18 (20, 22) more rows. 20 (22, 24) rows ribbed.

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. P2tog 5 times P1. K2tog 7 times P1. 21 stitches remaining.

Next Row: P8 K6 P7

Next Row: K2tog 3 times. P2 tog 3 times. K2tog 4 times K1. 11 stitches.

Next Row: P5 K3 P3.

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.

Form back flap of heel:

With right side of work facing you, draw up 14 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper.

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Purl across.

Row 3: K2tog K10 K2tog. 12 stitches

Row 4: Purl across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: P2tog P8 P2tog. 10 stitches.

Row 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Purl across.

Row 9: K2tog K6 K2tog. 8 stitches

Row 10: Purl across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: P2tog P4 P2tog. 6 stitches.

Row 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Purl across.

Row 15: K2tog K2 K2tog. 4 stitches

Row 16: Purl across.

Row 17: Knit across.

Row 18: P2tog twice. 2 stitches.

Row 19: Knit across.

Bind off


Create cuff:

With your double pointed needles and with the right side of your slipper facing you pick up 36 (38, 40) stitches around the stockinette stitch portion of slipper. Be sure to include 2 stitches bound off for the heel flap. Divide evenly on 3 of the double pointed needles.

Row 1 – 6: *(K1 P1) Repeat 17 (18, 19) more times.

Row 7 – 10: Knit

Bind off loosely. If too tight it will be hard to get the slipper on.

Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.

My stuff on Etsy:

Instructions for mens size 12 – 13

Yarn, gauge and needles remain the same

Cast on 42

Row 1: P13 K1 P14 K1 P13

Row 2: K13 P1 K124P1 K13

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 38 more times.

Shape toe:

Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K1 P14 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times.


Next Row: With wrong side facing you (K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K14 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.


Repeat these 2 rows for 24 more rows. 26 rows of ribbed.

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. P2tog 6 times P1. K2tog 7 times P1. 22 stitches remaining.

Next Row: P8 K7 P7

Next Row: K2tog 3 times. P2 tog 4 times. K2tog 4 times. 11 stitches.

Next Row: P4 K3 P4.

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.

Form back flap of heel:

With right side of work facing you, draw up 16 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper.

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Purl across.

Row 3: K2tog K12 K2tog. 14 stitches

Row 4: Purl across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: P2tog P10 P2tog. 12 stitches

Row 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Purl across.

Row 9: K2tog K8 K2tog. 10 stitches.

Row 10: Purl across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: P2tog P6 P2tog. 8 stitches

Row 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Purl across.

Row 15: K2tog K4 K2tog. 6 stitches.

Row 16: Purl across.

Row 17: Knit across.

Row 18: P2tog P2 P2tog. 4 stitches

Row 19: Knit across.

Row 20: Purl across.

Row 21: K2tog twice. 2 stitches.

Row 22: Purl across.

Row 23: Knit across.

Bind off

Create cuff:

With your double pointed needles and with the right side of your slipper facing you pick up 44 stitches around the stockinette stitch portion of slipper. Be sure to include 2 stitches bound off for the heel flap. Divide evenly on 3 of the double pointed needles.

Row 1 – 8: *(K1 P1) Repeat 21 more times.

Row 9 – 14: Knit

Bind off loosely. If too tight it will be hard to get the slipper over the wearer’s heel.

Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.


Hints and Tips:

As some final hints, don’t feel that the cuff needs to be the same colour as the slipper itself. A nice change is to make the cuff in a complimentary colour, especially if you have used variegated yarn. You can also use this pattern to use up some of your left over wool by making the toe (ribbed section) a different colour also.

This is also a great pattern to use if you have a variegated or any other colour changing yarn. Because there isn’t any pattern created by the stitches, it allows to show off the colours really well.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions on my contact page. You can also use the comment section below.

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Bars and Stripes Knitted Dishcloth Pattern

Bars and Stripes Knitted Dishcloth Pattern

I only use hand knit dishcloths and have for years. I can’t express the superiority of these things! Regardless of the style, and I have designed a few, they last forever, have fabulous scrubbing power and double as a great heat protector when setting a hot pan on the counter or grabbing something out of the oven. They wash well and it’s nice to have something on hand that reminds you of how truly crafty you are 😜


Not only are these great to have around, but this is another great project for anyone learning how to knit. This knitting pattern uses very basic stitches and I’ve included links to videos demonstrating how to do every stitch.


If you’re learning how to knit, this is a great project to learn on. Even if it doesn’t turn out perfectly, you still have a useable item. And if you do know how to knit already, it’s a great way to use up the left overs from your stash. And who couldn’t use an extra dishcloth or two anyways.

If you are loving this and all the other free knitting patterns on this site, please consider a small donation to help cover the costs of hosting through the Help Support My Work page. If you can’t afford to help out financially, which I’m totally cool with btw, please consider sharing this pattern with everyone you think may be interested. I’ve included these handy dandy share buttons below. You can help promote this site with a few simple clicks!


Unlike the majority of my work, this pattern is available as read online only. I’m not going to create a download for it unless I’m asked to do so. It such a simple and repetitive pattern, it won’t take much to come back to the site to read it.

Things you will need:

100% Cotton Worsted weight yarn

Size 8 (5 mm) straight knitting needles

Darning needle to sew in the ends


Let’s get knitting:

Cast on 39 sts.

Row 1 – 6: Knit across

πŸ¦„ 🧸 Row 7: K4 P1 *(K4 P1)* Repeat from * to * 5 times more. K4

Row 8: K5 *(P4 K1)* Repeat from * to * 5 times more. K4 🧸

Repeat from 🧸 to 🧸 2 more times.

Next row: Repeat row 7

Next row: Knit across πŸ¦„

Repeat from πŸ¦„ to πŸ¦„ 5 more times.

Knit across the next 4 rows.

Cast off.


Hints and Tips:

I’ve made the pattern so it is a square as I could get it. If you feel it’s too long (or short) add or take away πŸ¦„ to πŸ¦„ repeats. It’s a washcloth, not rocket science. The final piece can be however you like it.

I know some people (Me. I’m some people) like things to have the same motif on both sides. This isn’t one of those things. The backside isn’t terrible, just different from the front. It’s either going to offend you to the core of your being or you won’t give a f¡€k. It’s your call.

If you hold the cast on end to the back of your work and catch the yarn every other stitch, you’ll have one less end to sew in. I probably should make a video showing it. I hate sewing in ends and this is a great technique to learn.

If you have any questions or comments you can send me an email through my contact page. The comment section at the bottom of this pattern is also great to post your questions. I answer them ASAP.

This pattern grants you the pleasure and profit of selling or giving away anything that you make. It does NOT give you permission to publish, print or distribute it in any format. You are NOT permitted to claim this pattern as your own. Please respect mine, and other author’s rights. You’re a huge jerky jerk if you do this and I’m certain puppy dogs don’t like you because you’re such a horrible person. How can you live with yourself????

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Knit Two Styles of Slippers with One Pattern

Two slippers with one pattern

These two slipper styles are actually the same knitting pattern but showcase one side of the work or the other. They are easily made with the same basic knitting stitches and if you can make one style, you can make the other! The pattern is for slippers from a men’s size 6 to 13 and for a women’s 6 to 13. I’ve also provided direct links in the pattern to my YouTube videos demonstrating the knitting stitches required if you need a little help.

If you have never picked up stitches or knitted in the round, this is a great pattern to learn. I made a YouTube video showing how to do this for another pattern (you can read that pattern here – How to Knit Adult Booties), but the technique is similar. You can watch the video snippet right here – Picking up Stitches to Make the Heel the Cuff. The stitch pattern used this video is different, but would still look ok when done the final project.


If you’re loving the free patterns on this site, please consider a small donation to help with the hosting costs of the site. You can learn more about how you can help by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to help financially, which is totally ok btw, please share this pattern with anyone you think may like it. You can use these handy links πŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌ to share on social media or send it as an email to your friends and family.


And if you’re wanting to get off the internet and would prefer to have this on your phone, tablet or computer, you can download this pattern from my website here – Two Slipper Styles with One Pattern. The download is for a PDF that you can print if you so desire.

Things you will need:

Click any of the links below to have everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.

200 grams of worsted weight yarn

Set of 2 size 5 mm ( US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Set of 4 size 5 (US size 8) double pointed knitting needles or whatever size needed to obtain the correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew up seams and work in ends.


Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Cast on 42 sts.

Row 1: P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K12 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3

Row 2: K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 P12 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3

Repeat these two rows until slippers measures as shown in the chart below. End with row 2.

Shoe SizeLength
Men’s 6 – 78″ (20 cm)
Men’s 8 – 98 Β½” (21 cm)
Men’s 10 – 119″ (22.5 cm)
Men’s 12 – 139 Β½” (24 cm)
Women’s 6 – 77 Β½” (18 cm)
Women’s 8 – 98″ (20 cm)
Women’s 10 – 118 Β½” (21 cm)
Women’s 12 – 139″ (22.5 cm)


End toe Slipper β€œA”
Row 1: *(P2tog K2tog) repeat from * 3 times more.  K2tog twice K1 K2tog 3 times *(P2tog K2tog) repeat from * 2 times P2tog P1

Row 2: K2 *(P1 K1) repeat from * two more times. P7 *(K1 P1) repeat from * two more ties. K1
Row 3: K2tog 11 times

Row 4: P11

Draw yarn through loops and pull tight.

End toe Slipper β€œB”
Row 1: K1 (K2tog) 7 times (P2tog) 6 times. K1 (K2tog) 7 times

Row 2: P8 K6 P8

Row 3: (K2tog) 4 times (P2tog) 3 times (K2tog) 4 times

Row 4: P4 K3 P4

Draw yarn through loops and pull tight.


Heel and cuff Slipper β€œA”
With right side facing pick up 14 stitches


Row 1: Purl across


Row 2: Knit across


Repeat the two rows one more time

Row 5: P2tog P10 P2 tog


Row 6: K12


Row 7: P12


Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog


Row 9: P10


Row 10: K10


Row 11: P2tog P6 P2 tog


Row 12: K8


Row 13: P8


Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog


Row 15: P6


Row 16: K6

Row 17: P2tog P2 P2tog


Row 18: K4

Start cuff:
With double pointed needles, pick up 18 sts over half of one side, 18 sts on the other, and transfer the 4 stitches created when making the heel. Pick up the stitches over the first half of the slipper and leave the rest for the toe. Fold the sides of the slipper together to give an approximate of where to start picking up stitches on the other side of the slipper. You can also count back 18 stitches along the edge for a starting point.

Row 1: P3 K1 repeat 9 more times for total of 40 sts.


Repeat for 8 rows total. 

Bind off loosely.

Sew seams and work in ends of the yarn.


Heel and cuff Slipper β€œB”
With right side facing pick up 14 stitches. 


Row 1: Knit across


Row 2: Purl across


Repeat the two rows one more time

Row 5: K2tog K10 K2 tog


Row 6: P12


Row 7: K12


Row 8: P2tog P8 P2tog


Row 9: K10


Row 10: P10


Row 11: K2tog K6 K2 tog


Row 12: P8


Row 13: K8


Row 14: P2tog P4 P2tog


Row 15: K6


Row 16: P6

Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog


Row 18: P4

Start cuff:
With double pointed needles, pick up 18 sts over half of one side, 18 sts on the other, and transfer the 4 stitches created when making the heel. Pick up the stitches over the first half of the slipper and leave the rest for the toe. Fold the sides of the slipper together to give an approximate of where to start picking up stitches on the other side of the slipper. You can also count back 18 stitches along the edge for a starting point.

Row 1: K3 P1 repeat 9 more times for total of 40 sts.


Repeat for 8 rows total. 

Bind off loosely.

Sew seams and work in ends of the yarn.


Extra hints and tips:

When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. A lighter colour with flecks also works quite well. You can use darker or variegated yarn, but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.

The β€œright side” of the slipper is the side you’ve chosen to be on the outside. For Slipper β€œA” it is the side that has a more striped appearance. Slipper β€œB” looks more ribbed. No one said that the heel and cuff had to match anyways, so you may want to switch them up!

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

P2tog – purl 2 together

sts – stitches

If you have any questions or comments you’d rather keep private, you can send me an email through my contact page.

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Adult & Child Knitted Slippers…With BOWS!!

Bow Slippers Knitting Pattern

Hand knit slippers are wonderful, but it’s always nice to be able to make a fancier pair, especially if you are making them as a gift. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for girls from size 9 up to a woman’s size 12. You can keep scrolling or click here to read the child pattern.

The stitches used to make the slippers are very basic and this pattern includes detailed instructions and step by step photos that show how to create the bows. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.


If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting onknit stitchpurlbind offknit 2 togetherdraw through, and how to pick up stitches to make the heel. 


If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons πŸ‘†πŸΌ to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

Not a fan of reading things online or would like to print this pattern? You can download the PDF version of this pattern here – Easy to Knit Bow Slippers

Somehow found yourself on this page and absolutely LOVE these but don’t know or have the time to knit yourself a pair. I sell them right here too! Here’s the link to this shameless plug – Custom Order Bow Slippers

Things you will need:

Having a hard time knowing what you need? Click any of the links below to have everything sent right to your door.

200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).

Size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew seams and work in the ends


Gauge: 

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Woman’s size 6 – 12

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Cast on 44

Row 1: K5 P1 K3 P1 K24 P1 K3 P1 K5

Row 2: K6 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K6

Row 3: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).

Purl the next stitch*

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K24 Repeat from * to * K5.

(Row 3 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch* K24 Repeat from * to * K5.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Repeat row 3.

Row 8: Repeat row 2. The bow portion will look like this.

 How to knit a bow

Row 9: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.

How to knit a bow

Knit the next stitch.

How to knit a bow

Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.

(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.

The bow portion will look like this.

How to knit a bow

Row 10: Repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3 to 10 3(3, 4, 4) more times.

Next row: K2tog K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to *K3 K2tog. (42 sts)

Next row: K5 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K5.

Next row: K2tog K2 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K2 K2tog. (40 sts)

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. (40 sts)

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

πŸ„ Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4. πŸ„

Repeat from πŸ„ to πŸ„ 1(1, 2, 2) times more.


Form Toe:

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K13 P1 K12 P1 K13.

Repeat these two rows 0 (1, 0, 3) times more.

Next row: K2tog K36 K2tog. (38 sts)

Next row: K12 P1 K12 P1 K12.

Next row: K2tog K34 K2tog. (36 sts)

Next row: K11 P1 K12 P1 K11.

Next row: K2tog across. (18 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog across (9 sts).

Next row: Knit across.

Break yarn and draw yarn through stitches to gather together to finish the toe.

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Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches. 

Row 1 – 4 : Knit across.

Row 5: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)

Row 6 -7 Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 9 – 10: Knit across.

Row 11: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 12 – 13: Knit across.

Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 15 – 16: Knit across.

Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 18: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 19 – 20: Knit across.

Bind off

Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams, work in the ends and enjoy!


Child Slippers size 9 – 3

Knitting pattern for kids - Slippers

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 9-10 (11-12, 13-1, 2-3)

Cast on 34

Row 1: K3 P1 K3 P1 K18 P1 K3 P1 K3

Row 2: K4 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K4

Row 3: K3 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K3 

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Repeat row 3.

Row 8: Repeat row 2.

Row 9: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K3.

Row 10: Repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3 to 10 1(1, 2, 2) more times.

Next row: K2tog K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to *K1 K2tog. (32 sts)

Next row: K3 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K3.

Next row: K2tog *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K2tog. (30 sts)

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

πŸ” Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2. πŸ”

Repeat from  πŸ” to πŸ” 0 (0, 1, 1) times more.

Form Toe:

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K9 P1 K10 P1 K9.

Repeat these two rows 0 (3, 0, 2) times more.

Next row: K2tog K26 K2tog. (28 sts)

Next row: K8 P1 K10 P1 K8.

Next row: K2tog K24 K2tog. (26 sts)

Next row: K7 P1 K10 P1 K7.

Next row: K2tog across. (13 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog 3 times K1 K2tog 3 times (7 sts).

Next row: Knit across.

Break yarn and draw yarn through stitches to gather together to finish the toe.

Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.

Row 1 – 2 : Knit across.

Row 3: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 4 – 5: Knit across.

Row 6: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 7 – 8: Knit across.

Row 9: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 10 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 13 – 14: Knit across.

Row 15: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 16: Knit across.

Bind off.

Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams and work in ends.


Hints and tips:

When creating the strands, pull apart the 3 stitches passed over to the other needle. This allows for some additional slack in the strand across the 3 unworked stitches.

Sometimes the bows will appear lopsided. If you put your knitting needle under the 3 strands and pull gently on one side and then the other, you can easily even them out.

This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurments such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.

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Easy to Knit Slippers – Great Beginner Knitting Pattern

Easy to Knit Slippers Pattern

This is a great knitting pattern for beginners because it only uses basic stitches that are very easy master. I’ve included links in the pattern to videos on YouTube that show you how to preform each stitch, making this a great pattern to teach yourself how to knit.

This is also a great project for experienced knitters because these slippers are very quick and easy to make. The pattern enables you to make a variety of sizes, from a woman’s size 6 up to a man’s size 14. 


If you are loving the free patterns, please feel free to share this pattern with anyone and everyone you think may like it. You can use any of the buttons below to share it with whatever social media accounts you have.


If you’d like to do just more than share to keep this website up and running, you can also make a donation to help with hosting costs. Go to this page – Help Support My Work to learn how you can help.

If you’d rather have the downloadable version of this pattern, you can find that here – Easy to Knit Slippers.

Things you will need:

Having a hard time finding what you need? Click any of the links below to have exactly what you require to finish these slippers mailed right to your door.

200 grams of worsted weight yarn (I find Red Heart wears well and easy to maintain).

Set of size 5 ( US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew up the seams and work in the ends.


Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Slippers are given for a woman’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13, 14-15)
or man’s sizes 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14). The foot lengths of a woman’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a man’s size 5-6 and so on.

Cast on 40 (48, 48, 48, 48)

Row 1: *K2 P2* Repeat from * to* 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2 P12 Repeat from * to* 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times K2.

Row 2: *P2 K2* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. P2 K12 Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times P2.

Row 3: Repeat row 1.

Row 4: Knit across.

Repeat rows 1 through 4 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more.


Shape toe: 

Next row: Repeat row 1.

Next row: Repeat row 2.

Next row: *K2tog P2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2tog. (P2tog) Repeat 5 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K2tog. [20 (24, 24, 24, 24) sts remain.]

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K1 *K2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. (P2tog) Repeat 2 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K1. [11 (13, 13, 13, 13) sts remain.]

Next row: P4 (P5, P5, P5, P5) K3 P4 (P5, P5, P5, P5).

Cut the yarn leaving approximately 12” to sew up toe seam.  Draw yarn through stitches and pull tight to form toe. Bring edges together and sew half of the stitches together to form toe taking care to match the stitches together to form an invisible seam. Make another slipper to match.

To Make Heel Flap:

***For woman’s size 6-7 and man’s size 5-6 ONLY!***

With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 12 stitches along the sole edge.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: P2tog P8 P2tog (10 sts)

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K2tog K6 K2tog (8 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row11: Knit

Row 12: P2tog P4 P2tog (6 sts)

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: K2tog K2 K2tog (4 sts)

Row 16: Purl

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: P1 P2tog P1 (3 sts)

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Bind off.

For all remaining slipper sizes:

With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 12 stitches along the sole edge.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Repeat rows 1 – 2 3 times more

Row 9: Knit

Row 10: P2tog P8 P2tog (10 sts)

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: K2tog K6 K2tog (8 sts)

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: Knit

Row 16: P2tog P4 P2tog (6 sts)

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: Purl

Row 19: K2tog K2 K2tog (4 sts)

Row 20: Purl

Row 21: Knit

Row 22: P1 P2tog P1 (3 sts)

Row 23: Knit

Row 24: Bind off.

Make a heal flap for the other slipper. Sew up the seams of heal flap and work in all the yarn ends.


Extra Tips

The pattern is written as simply as possible, but here are a few extra tips that may help you.

Knit what is between the * * once. Then knit whatever is between the * * again however many times more the pattern instructs you to.

When the pattern say repeat between * * however many times, knit the portion as many times as it instructs. Simply put, the slippers always have an equal number of knitted β€œridges” and purled β€œvalleys” on each side of the sole. There are 4 β€œridges” and 3 β€œvalleys” on the smallest size and 5 β€œridges” and 4 β€œvalleys” on all the other sizes.

When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. You can use darker or variegated yarn but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.

Happy knitting!

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me through my contact page.

This pattern enables you to sell or give away anything you may make with it. It does NOT allow you to redistribute, sell, give away or copy the pattern in any way without WRITTEN permission.

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Cable Knit Slippers for Children and Adults

cable knit slippers

Learn to knit comfy, cozy cabled slippers. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for children from a small size 3 to large 3, and a woman’s and man’s size 4 to 12. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.


Even if you have never knit a cable before, have no fear! This pattern includes detailed instructions and numerous photos on how to create the cable. And if you need to brush up on some of the more basic stitches, you can learn how to knit with my YouTube videos.

Not wanting to be online all the time? You can also download the pattern here – How to Knit Cable Slippers


If you are enjoying the free knitting patterns, don’t forget to learn more about how you can Help Support My Work. Using those share buttons right up there πŸ‘†πŸΌ is a great way to start! Letting others know about this pattern is good for everyone.

Things you will need:

If you are having a difficult time locating the supplies you need to make these slippers, click any link below to have it mail right to your door.

200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).

Size 4.5 (US size 7) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Cable knitting needle

Darning needle to sew the seams and work in the ends.


Gauge: 

14 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Children’s Sizes 3 – 3

Cable Knit Slippers

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 3-4 (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3)

Cast on 29 (29, 31, 32, 34, 35, 37)

Row 1: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 K3 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K3 P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Row 2: K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) P3 K3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5) P1 K7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) P1 K3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5) P3 K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5)

Row 3: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Repeat rows 2–5 3 (4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8) times more.

Next row: Repeat row 2.

Shape Toe

Next row: K2tog once (once, once, once, twice, twice, twice) K 1 (1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0) P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17,19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K 1 (1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0) K2tog once (once, once, once, twice, twice, twice)  Click here for an explanation.

🌺 Next row (and all remaining even rows): K3 P3 K3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5) P1 K7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) P1 K3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5) P3 K3 

Next row: K2 P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌺 (All rows when wrong side of the work is facing you.)

🐿 Next row: K2 P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒΊ

Next row: K2 P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒΊ 🐿

Repeat from 🐿 to 🐿 3 (3,3,3,4,4,4) times more.

End Toe

Next row: K2tog P1 SL1 K2tog PSSO P1 K1 K2tog 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9) times P1 SL1 K2tog PSSO P1 K2tog.

Next row: Knit

Next row: K 1 (1, 0, 1, 1, 1, 0) K2tog to the end of the row.

Next row: Knit

Pull yarn through.


Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.

Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.

Row 4: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 5 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 9 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.

Row 16: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 17 – 19: Knit across.

Bind off.

When shaping the toe, once completed the row, you should have 2 knit stitches before the purl of the cable at the beginning of the row and 2 stitches after the last purl after the cable at the end of the row regardless of the size. Depending on the size you either knit 2 stitches together twice or knit two stitches together once and knit the one remaining stitch. Regardless of size this gives the two stitches.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

Adult Sizes: 

Cable Knit Slippers

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such:

Women’s 4-5 (6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12) 

Men’s 4 (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

A woman’s size 6-7 is the same as a man’s size 5-6. A woman’s size 8-9 is the same as a man’s size 7-8. etc.

Cast on 40 (44, 46, 48, 50)

Row 1: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 2: K4 (5, 5, 6, 6) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K4 (5, 5, 6, 6) 

πŸ¦‹ Row 3: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 4: Repeat row 2. 

Row 5: Repeat row 1.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 K2 C2B P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K2 C2B P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 8: Repeat row 2.

Row 9: Repeat row 1.

Row 10: Repeat row 2. πŸ¦‹

Repeat from πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹ 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) times more.

Shape Toe:

Next row: K2tog 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) times K1 (2, 2, 1, 1) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 1, 1) K2tog 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) times. 38 (42, 44, 44, 46) sts.

Next row: K3 (4, 4, 4, 4) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K3 (4, 4, 4, 4) 

Next row: K2tog K 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) K2tog. 36 (40, 42, 42, 44) sts. 

🌝 Next row: K2 (3, 3, 3, 3) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K2 (3, 3, 3, 3) 

πŸ’– Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 K2 C2B P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K2 C2B P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌝

⭐️ Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌝

πŸ€ Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: Repeat row marked with β­οΈ

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸ’–

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: Repeat row marked with ⭐️

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌝 πŸ€

Repeat from πŸ€ to πŸ€ 0(1, 1, 2, 3) times more.

End Toe:

Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: Repeat row marked with β­οΈ

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: K2tog across.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog 9 (10, 10, 10, 11) times.

Knit the last stitch for women’s sizes 8-9 and 10-11 and the men’s sizes 7-8 and 9-10 only.

Next row: Knit across.

Pull yarn through.


Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.

Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.

Row 4: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)

Row 5 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 9 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.

Row 16: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 17 – 19 : Knit across.

Row 20: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 21 – 23 : Knit across.

Row 24: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 25 – 27: Knit across.

Bind off.

Hints and tips:

This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurements such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.

The children’s slipper is made with a smaller cable than the adult sizes. It uses C1F and C1B to allow for the smaller foot size.

C1F (Cable 1 forward) is done the same way as the C2F, but instead of knitting and pulling forward 2 stitches, only knit and pull one stitch forward.

C1B – (Cable 1 backward) is done the same way as the C2B, but instead of knitting and pulling of 2 stitches to the back of your work, only knit and pull one stitch back.


How to Make the Cable:

C2F β€“ Cable 2 Forward. 

You can also watch this helpful video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/PrCjIC3fhxk


With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle

Cable 2 forward knitting

Pull the stitches towards the front of your work.

Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the next 2 stitches.

Cable 2 forward knitting

Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the stitches from the cable needle.

Cable 2 forward knitting

Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the last 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2).

Cable 2 forward knitting

C2B β€“ Cable 2 backward. 

You can also watch how to do this with my helpful video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/u8GrJIJseKQ

Knit the first 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2.)

Cable 2 back knitting

With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle.

Cable 2 back knitting

Pull the stitches towards the back of your work.

Cable 2 back knitting

Knit the next 2 stitches.

Knit the stitches from the cable needle.

Cable 2 back knitting

Cable 2 back knitting

Cabling described without photos:

C2F β€“ Cable 2 forward

With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C2B β€“ Cable 2 backward

With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

C1F – Cable 1 forward (this is done the same way as the C2F, but instead of knitting and pulling forward 2 stitches, only knit and pull one stitch forward). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the front of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle. 

C1B – Cable 1 backward (this is done the same way as the C2B, but instead of knitting and pulling of 2 stitches to the back of your work, only knit and pull one stitch back). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle.

C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. 

C2B – Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

SL 1 – Slip 1 stitch off knit ways

PSSO – Pass the slipped stitch over

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca or through my contact form.

Copyright 2020

Janis Frank

This pattern gives you permission to sell or give away anything that you make with this pattern. It does NOT give you permission to give away, reproduce in any form or sell this pattern.


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Knitted Jewelry Patterns for You to Make

free knitted broach pattern

If you’re looking to knit something different than a pair of slippers, sweaters, socks or mittens, look no further (and I bet you didn’t even know that knitted jewelry was “a thing” πŸ˜‰). Well folks, it certainly is and here are a few of my favourite designs that I found online to share with you. 

Once again, this list is a little heavy on the bracelet side of things and I do apologize. I have a slight weakness for designing bracelets myself and I guess it’s what catches my eye.

Easily find what you’re looking for. Enter your search term in the Google bar below.

Leaf Lace Cotton Cuff 

OMG the is so pretty!!! The free PDF is available as a download through Ravelry. Includes both written and chart instructions and is written in English and Dutch.

Download it here – Leaf Lace Cotton Cuff

Knitted Bluebird Brooch 

I really like the look of this one. Simple and cute! Be warned. I’m not sure how long/if the link will continue to work. This was apparently uploaded to the internet a while ago and is actually in an archive section. It may take a while to load the page.

Hope this works, but here’s the link – Knitted Bluebird Brooch

Knecklace

Love the title for this one πŸ˜…. This is another one of those knitting patterns that really can be made to suit the wearer with something as simple as choosing a variegated yarn. Regardless, this lacy necklace would make a great gift, even or yourself πŸ˜‰

Read it here – Knecklace

Perdita – A Pretty Knitted Bracelet

I absolutely love this and is what inspired this list, if I can be honest. The pattern is written out in full as a chart AND as the written pattern. I love the final look of this knitted bracelet.

You can read it here – Perdita

Band Cuffs

These would look great alone or stacked together as shown. And what a great way to use up the left over stash! (We all have those tiny balls that we hoard for projects just like these. Admit it.) 

Read it online or get the PDF here – Band Cuffs

The Nameless Choker

If you’re into lace knitting, this may be right up your alley. Made with a small quantity of sock yarn, you could get a bunch of different effects if using a variegated yarn. 

You can read the pattern in full online here – The Nameless Choker

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Blogger Pattern Shoutout

knitting pattern watermelon slippers

As a blogger and pattern creator myself, I always have a soft spot for my fellow online posters of great patterns. I think there is something to be said for folks that go out of their way to design a pattern, a ton of work btw, and then give it away for free! So here is my latest shoutout to those I’ve found on the “intertubes” that deserve a a few extra page visits, views, likes and shares thrown their way.

If you have a pattern that you’d like me to share, by all means, contact me! I’d be happy to share the love and add you to my lists. I’m hoping to have the time and content to create a weekly pattern shoutout. Contact me here to send an email with your link and other info. I would prefer that it be available online to read, but if your pattern is a download, I’ll share that too. 

Watermelon Chunky Slippers

These are some super cute slippers! Designed to fit both adults and children, you can read this pattern in full on the blog here. And did I mention, it’s free πŸ˜‰


Kreisel Fingerless Gloves

I’ve always been a fan of crocheted mittens of any style, but I REALLY like the looks of these. I’m a fan of both the design and the colour. Bit of a sucker for the cooler shades… You can read the pattern on the blog here.

Annabelle by DROPS Design

I’m always so impressed by the number of patterns available at this site and love these crocheted slippers! You can read the pattern for this lovely design here.

Ombre Basket Pattern

I actually like this purse/basket so much that I’m going to share this one again. I did once with another website I was running, but that’s a story for another day.

The basket is going to turn out based entirely on the yarn colour selections. I know that the yarn cakes are really popular right now but the colour changes may not be short enough to get this fabulous colour transition.

But enough on my views, get to making this now! Read the pattern here.

The Best Kitchen Scrubbie

This is a great project for anyone! If you’re learning how to crochet or even if you’re an experienced crocheter (is that even a word) you’ll find the final product super useful. I have one sitting by my kitchen sink right now. And it was from a fellow crocheter (still not sure if that’s a word πŸ€”).

I’m including the how to video and the link where you can read the pattern online – The Best Kitchen Scrubbie

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Kid’s Stuff – FREE Knitting Patterns

Dishcloth

Sometimes it’s nice to have smaller projects that use up our stash ends. Sometimes we want to give something to that favourite child in our lives. Maybe we are sill looking for an excuse to make something a little more on the fun and whimsical side. Whatever the reason, knitting patterns designed for children seem to involve all those factors. Here’s a quick sampling of the few things I’ve found lurking about on the web. 

Like always, I’m always on the look out for new crochet and knitting patterns. If you’d like to see yours here, send me an email with the link you’d like me to share. You can go to this page to send me an email.

Almost Lost Washcloth

So not necessarily a kid thing, it’s a bit more on the whimsical side by not being your basic square washcloth. It looks like tit’s knitted in the round but in reality, it’s knitted flat on 2 needles. The swooping effect is created by leaving a few stitches on the needle. Very ingenious. 

Click here to read the pattern online.

Stacking Stars

Remember the stacking rings that children played with years ago? MThat was the first thing I thought of when I saw this. The star motif for the pattern is the same regardless of the size. What creates the difference in the sizes of the star is how many repeats you do.

Available as a download only, You can get the pattern through Ravelry here – Stacking Stars

Snowman Hat Knitting Pattern

Awesomely super cute! Knit up this toque (I’m Canadian, that’s what we call these here πŸ˜‰) that’s sure to make all the preschoolers a little envious.

You can read the pattern in full online here. There is also a PDF download but there is a fee required for that. The links to the downloads are on the website.

Bear With Me Dishcloth

Available as a PDF download from KnitPicks, (tons of patterns there btw), I added this primarily because of the awwwwwww factor. 

You can get the pattern here – Bear Washcloth

Knitted Pencil Case

I didn’t know that a knitted pencil case was a thing until I found this. I have to admit, I like it. Available as a download only, you can find it on Ravelry here – The Toby Case

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Knitting for Charity – Free Patterns that Can Make a Difference

knitting pattern for a tote bag

Knitting patterns that either help raise awareness for a cause or charity or are to give to someone comfort in their time of need. If you can’t directly help the organization that provides the pattern, maybe you can start a similar group to help those that live in your community. Let this page be an inspiration to you.

If you are a charitable organization and would like to see a link to your cause, please contact me here. I’d be happy to add a link to your pattern.

Tote for a Cause 

Knit up this tote bag to help raise cancer awareness. This would make a great gift for someone as a show of support.

Get the pattern here – Tote for a Cause 

Knitted Knockers

These “knockers” are useful for ladies as a prosthetic after a mastectomy. These are especially useful if the surgery is recent and the patient is tender.

Just about every country out there has a chapter of this group. A little research will certainly turn up something near you.

The link provided here offers complete step-by-step videos and has both crocheted and knitted versions of the patterns to download for free. 

Download the pattern – Knitted Knockers

Baby Angel Pocket or Blanket

These are for babies that have been lost due to miscarriage, stillbirth and other complications. There is both a crocheted and knitted version of this pattern.

Click here to get the pattern – Baby Angel Pocket or Blanket

Why you may want to make these for your local hospital (as taken from the page linked to this entry) :

  • The babies are treated with dignity and respect just as a live baby would be wrapped up when it is born.
  • The blankets and angel pockets help hospital staff present babies to their family in a respectful way.
  • The angel pockets allow parents to β€˜hold’ their baby without touching their skin, which is very fragile and deteriorates quite quickly.
  • A dead baby’s body starts to seep fluids shortly after death and the blankets help to β€˜soak up’ some of that fluid.
  • Some parents want to keep the blankets they have bought for their baby so choose to bury or cremate them in the donated blanket.
  • The blankets may be kept as a keepsake. When there is very little to show for a baby, a pretty angel pocket or blanket will often be treasured forever.

Knitting Pattern: Five Finger Puppets 

It can get pretty dull for anyone who’s stuck in a hospital for any length of time. It’s even harder if you’re a young child. Why not whip up these cute inner puppets. You probably have enough leftovers in your stash to make them right now (I know I do).

Read the pattern in full here – Five Finger Puppets 

Pink Ribbon Hat

Another knitting pattern to help raise awareness of breast cancer and show your support for those who’s lives it touches. 

Read the pattern online here – Pink Ribbon Hat

Hello Preemie Free Baby Hat Knitting Pattern 

These are perfect for the tiny little newborns in the hospital. They look super cute and help keep these new additions warm. Just about every hospital with babies can use these.

Get the pattern here – Hello Preemie Free Baby Hat

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Free Knitted Scarf & Cowl Patterns

pleated scarf

When the wind starts to blow and temperatures get cold, it’s time to bundle up and keep warm with these knitted scarf and cowl patterns. All are free and available as either a download or to read online.

Like always, I’m looking to link to more free crochet and knit patterns out there on the web. Want me to include your work? Contact me here and send me the link and other details you’d like me to share.

Pleated Scarf Pattern

Make a lovely scarf with this pattern. The pattern itself forms the pleats with no folding or ironing involved. If I don’t have to iron to make it look like this, I’m sold! 

Get the download on Ravelry here – Arisaid Pleated Scarf

Twined Flowers

A bit of a different design that makes for a lovely, drape-y kind of feel. The pattern is online and can also be downloaded. The link to see it says download, but it will open up in your browser window. 

Read it here – Twin Flowers Scarf Pattern

Knitted Cowl Pattern

A simple and repetitive pattern and great for the beginner knitter. You can read the pattern in full online here – Birthday Cowl.

Textured Knit Purl Cowl 

This cowl made with a soft wool would feel absolutely amazing! The pattern is written out in full on the website. And it’s so easy, it’s literally 2 rows repeated over and over. Read the pattern here – Textured Knit Purl Cowl

First-Timer Knit Lace Scarf

Another pattern that’s great for a beginning knitter. As long as you know how to Yarn Over and have your basic stitches down, you’ll do great at this! Read the pattern in full online here – First-Timer Knit Lace Scarf

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Slippers, Socks and More!!

knitted bunny slippers

I do like a nice pair of slippers; I certainly do design a lot. But for some reason, maybe because all my spawn are older, I don’t get around to making children’s sizes very often. I actually don’t get around to designing much of anything for kids. Maybe I should… or better yet, I’ll let all the other good people out there design for kids and I’ll share their patterns on my website! 

So with that, here is this week’s instalment of some fun, cute and quick to make knitting patterns for children I thought may tickle your fancy. And because I didn’t want anyone to feel left out, there is a treat for you adults in here too. Who doesn’t love Bunny Slippers πŸ°πŸ˜

Like always, I’m always on the lookout for more cute, beautiful, seasonal or truly unique patterns to share. If you found one online you think others would like, fill out the form here. I’ll be happy to check it out. 

Knit Animal Slippers for Children

This is a basic knitted slipper pattern for kids with instructions on how to make cat and the dog head as shown. There are other head patterns that you can buy.

Read the pattern here – Animal Slippers 

Knit Mice Socks for Kids

OMG! How cute are these!! A basic sock design with a few extra embellishments at the end to create some genuine mouse-y goodness. Now I don’t want to toot my own horn too much, but if you want to make something similar for an adult, I have a knitted sock pattern for adults all ready to go on here. Just sayin’ is all…

You can read the pattern for these super cuties here – Knit Mice Socks

Das Monster – Knitted Toddler Pants

Possibly the most fantastic knitted toddler pants to ever be created. And though the original pattern was more like the purple and green ones with the teeth, with a bit of tweaking, you could personalize these to be like the Elmo ones. But of course that would be Elmo inspired or a tribute to Elmo. Not the actual Elmo himself because that would be copyright infringement and we don’t want none of that sorta stuff ’round here.

Read the pattern here – Das Monster

Duck Feet – Knitted Slippers/Socks

I’ve shared these awesome slippers or socks before because I love them so much! This version is written for toddlers, but you can make them for adults too! Go to Ravelry and you can download the PDF from the same designer.

The pattern is written in full here – Knitted Duck Feet for toddlers and here – Duck Feet for Adults.

Bunny Toes – Knitted Baby Booties

Yet another super cute pair of what really are tiny socks with ears and a bit of extra embroidery. But gosh, darn it! Look at what you get! The pattern ranges from 1 month to 4 years. I haven’t tried this pattern yet, but it’s done with very fine yarn and small DPN. If you used a larger gauge of needle and some thicker yarn, it may magically transform into adult sized socks. The number of cast on stitches is the same as my socks, so technically, it should work… let me know if you try.

Read the pattern here – Bunny Toes – Knitted Baby Booties

Bunny Hop – Thrummed Bunny Slippers

I’ll be honest, I had no idea what “thrummed” or “thrumming” was (or that it was even a word) until I found this pattern. Thankfully, this pattern not only explains it, but shows you how to do it. In this instance, it makes a cushier, thicker sole. I may need to keep this in mind for future designs…

The pattern is in adult sizes only and can be sans bunny parts to make a more sophisticated slipper for those with discerning tastes.

Read the pattern here – Bunny Hop Thrummed Bunny Slippers

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How to Crochet Slippers

How to Crochet Slippers

There is a certain charm to handmade slippers. Whether they be knitted or crocheted, it is always nice to be able to give someone a handmade gift, even if that gift is for yourself! Made with basic crochet stitches, you can make these very cute and practical slippers for just about anyone. With this pattern you can make slippers from a child’s size 11 to 4, a women’s size 5 to12 and a men’s size 6 to 11). This pattern includes instructions detailing how to make the adorable flower, though the more manly types may not appreciate the extra splash of colour. 

How to crochet slippers

If you would prefer to have a permanent copy of this pattern on your smartphone, tablet or computer, you can also download it directly from my website here: Crocheted Ribbed Slippers. A new window will open when you click the link so you won’t lose this page.

And if you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and help me more than you know πŸ˜‰. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


Gauge in sc

9 sts = 5 cm

9 rows = 5 cm

Things You Need:

220 gr of any colour worsted weight yarn

Size 4.25 crochet hook (or whatever size you need to obtain the correct gauge)

Darning needle (to sew seams and work in the ends)

The first set of brackets are are written for children’s sizes (11-12, 1-2, 3-4). The second set of brackets are women’s sizes (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12) and men’s (*-*, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11). Men’s size 6-7 are the same as a women’s 7-8. A men’s 8-9 the same as a woman’s size 9-10. A men’s 10-11 the same as a woman’s size 11-12. There is no men’s size 4-5 given.

How to Crochet Slippers

Ch (22, 26, 30) (30, 32, 32, 36). Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. Ch 1, turn.

(21, 25, 29 sts) (29, 31, 31, 35 sts)

Row 2: Sc in back loops of next (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts. Hdc in next (9, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11) sts. Sc in back loops of next (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts. Ch 1, turn. (The sc in the back loops forms the ribbed pattern.)

Row 3: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (9, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11) hdc. (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (6.5, 7.5, 8.5) (8.5, 9, 9.5, 11) cm from the edge. (21, 25, 29 sts) (29, 31, 31, 35 sts)

Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, 3 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (23, 27, 31 sts) (31, 33, 33, 37 sts)

Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (11, 11, 11) (11, 13, 13, 13) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (9, 10, 11) (11, 12, 13, 14) cm from the edge.

Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (3, 3, 3) (3, 5, 5, 5) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25, 29, 33 sts) (33, 35, 35, 39 sts)

Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (6, 8, 10)(10, 10, 10, 12sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (11, 13, 14)(14, 15, 16, 17) cm from the edge.

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Create the Top of the Slipper

Next row: Ch (6, 6, 6)(6, 8, 8, 8), turn. (You should have the ch 1 from your previous row already completed.) Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. (6, 8, 10)(10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (31, 35, 39 sts)(39, 43, 43, 47 sts)

Next row: Ch (7, 7, 7) (7, 9, 9, 9), turn. Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. 10 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (37, 41, 45 sts) (45, 51, 51, 55 sts)

Next row: (12, 14, 16) (16, 18, 18, 20) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (12, 14, 16) (16, 18, 18, 20) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (13.5, 15, 17) (17, 18, 19, 20.5) cm from edge.

Shape Toe:

Children’s Size (11-12) 

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 13 hdc, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (29 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (23 sts)

Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (21 sts)

Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), 1 hdc, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (11 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (12 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.

Children’s Size (1-2)

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (31 sts)

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), sc in back loop, 11 hdc, sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)

Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (23 sts)

Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), sc in back loops, 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, sc in back loops *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (15 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (16 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.

Children’s Size (3-4) Women’s Size (5-6)

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), sc in back loops, 13 hdc, sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (35 sts)

Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)

Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), 2 sc in back loop, 11 hdc, 2 sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop in each st. (14 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.

Women’s Size (7-8, 9-10) Men’s Size (6-7, 8-9)

Next row: 18 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 11 hdc, 2 sctog, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (49 sts)

Next row: 18 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog* (repeat from * to * 5 times more) in back loops, 13 hdc, *2 sctog, sc* (repeat from * to * 5 times more) in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (37 sts)

Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (35 sts)

Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog* (repeat from * to * 3 times more) in back loops, 11 hdc, *2 sctog, sc* (repeat from * to * 3 times more) in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (14 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.

Women’s Size (11-12) Men’s Size (10-11)

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 5 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 5 times more). Ch 1, turn. (43 sts)

Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 11 hdc, 2 sctog, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (41 sts)

Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sc in back loop, 13 hdc, 2 sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (31 sts)

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), 2 sctog twice, 3 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (17 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (18 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.


Make the Heel

With the wrong side facing you and toe facing down.

Row 1: Sc in the each hdc of sole of slipper along starting edge (the loop left from the original chain stitches). Ch 1, turn. (9, 9, 9,)(9, 11, 11, 11 sts)

Row 2-4: Sc in back loops, Ch 1, turn.

Row 5: 2 sctog, (5, 5, 5,)(5, 7, 7, 7) sc, 2 sctog. Ch 1, turn. (7, 7, 7,)(7, 9, 9, 9 sts)

Row 6: (7, 7, 7,)(7, 9, 9, 9) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Row 7: 2 sctog, (3, 3, 3,)(3, 5, 5, 5) sc, 2 sctog. Ch 1, turn. (5, 5, 5,)(5, 7, 7, 7 sts)

STOP HERE for children’s size 11-12 and 1-2. Skip to row 10.

Row 8: Sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Row 9: 2 sctog, (1,)(1, 3, 3, 3 sts) sc, 2 sctog. Ch 1, turn. (3)(3, 5, 5, 5 sts)

Edging Around Slipper

Row 10: Sc in back loops. Do NOT make ch st or turn! Sc in each row and stitch around the edge of the slipper.

Row 11: Sc in each st around. Finish off.


Flower:

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (second ch counts as 1 sc) work 9 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to ch 1. (10 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3. Sl st in the same sc as join. *Sl st in next 2 sc. In same st as the 2nd sl st, ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3. Sl st in the same sc.* Repeat from * to * around. End with st st in the next sc. (5 flower petals).

Pull up a Loop

Pull up a loop in each stitch as if you were going to make a single crochet. Don’t work the loop. Leave the loop on the hook.

How to crochet slippers - end toe

Leave the loop on the hook. 12 sts will make 13 loops including the original ch 1.

How to crochet slippers

Draw the yarn through all the loops.

How to crochet slippers
How to crochet slippers
How to crochet slippers

Cut the yarn and pull the yarn through all the loops.

How to crochet slippers

Draw tight.

How to crochet slippers

Tips and Hints:

If your slipper is a little too big when you finish, one way to tighten it up a bit is to decrease some stitches when making the second round on the edging. Sc two stitches every 4 or 5 stitches will help.

To add a little more awesomeness to your slipper you can layer multiple flowers. Make each flower a different colour or you can change the size of your hook to make each flower smaller and stack them.

Work in your ends; don’t knot them off. Knots rub and can hurt the wearer’s foot.

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble crochet

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

2 sctog – single crochet 2 stitches together

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questionsΒ here.Β 

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Crochet a Skull and Crossbones Dishcloth

crochet skull and crossbones dishcloth

Because even pirates and rock stars need to do the dishes, I’ve created the coolest dishcloth known to man.  That’s right! A crocheted dishcloth that’s reversible with a skull and crossbones on it. Now who DOESN’T want that in their kitchen! Crazy people, that’s who.

crochet skull dishcloth

This dishcloth is very easy to make and a great project for beginners as it uses very basic crochet stitches that are easy to master. For the tougher points, like making the teeth (simply an elongated double crochet) and the edging, there are photos and a video to help you along. Or you can keep scrolling down the page to watch it here.

I also have made this pattern available for download here – Download the Skull and Crossbones pattern


Get the PDF version of the pattern from my website. A PDF file will work on any device (iPad, tablet, smartphone, computer, etc.) however you will need Adobe Reader to open and view the file. This is a free program which can be downloaded here – http://get.adobe.com/reader/

Liking the free patterns and would like to see more? Consider supporting my work with a small donation through PayPal or by making a purchase of any of my hand made items. You can do both by going to this page – Help Support My Work. Clicking and sharing this pattern, and my other patterns, on social media also helps me out immensely. I’ve provided links above that enable you to do so easily.

Things you need:

Size 4.25 crochet hook (Size doesn’t really matter but if you use a larger hook, the dishcloth will be larger, and with a smaller hook, it will be smaller)

50 gr (1 3/4 oz) ball of cotton yarn (you’ll have leftovers).

Darning needle (to work in ends)

Ch 34

Dc in 3rd ch from hook and remaining 32 ch. Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc of next row), turn. (33 sts)

Row 2: Dc in each dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: 7 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 13 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 8 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 4: 9 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 11 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 10 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 5: 10 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 9 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 11 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 6: 11 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 7 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 12 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 7: 11 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 7 dc in each dc (click that link or scroll down the page to see photos to help you along) st below, ch 1 skip next st, 12 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 8: 9 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 11 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 10 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 9: 8 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 6 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 6 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 9 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 10-11: 8 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 13 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 9 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 12: 8 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 3 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 3 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 9 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 13: 7 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, 1 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, 11 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, 1 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, 8 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 14: 6 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 9 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 7 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 15: 5 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 5 dc, *ch 1, skip next st, dc* (repeat from * to * 4 times more) 4 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 6 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 16: 3 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 21 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 4 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 17: Dc in each dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 18: Dc in each dc. Ch 1.


Edging:

With right side facing, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc between every 2nd dc along the top and bottom edges and around each dc and ch 2 post along the sides. Not sure how to do a backwards single crochet? Watch my how-to video on YouTube here: Crochet Edging for Dishcloths.

Hints and tips:

Use any cotton yarn that you like. Cotton only! Acrylic doesn’t work well for dish washing, and wool will felt and look pretty disgusting after a while. Also, I’ve written the pattern to use less than one ball of the most common cotton yarns available in big box stores (one starts with a β€œW”). These make great gifts that are extremely affordable to make.

When skipping a stitch you may be making a dc in either a ch or a dc. St is used regardless to make the pattern easier to read.

Hold the starting yarn end behind the your work when making the edging. That way you only have the final end to sew in when done.

You can make the edging in a different colour for a bit of extra pizzazz. I don’t because I strongly dislike sewing in ends. An extra colour means extra work 🀨

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Abbreviations:

ch – chain

dc – double crochet

Bsc – backwards single crochet


dc in dc below –

Instead of passing the hook through the top of the stitch, pass the hook through the bottom.



Hook the yarn and pull it through the hole. Pull the yarn up and level with the previous stitches.


Hook your yarn and pull through the first two loops.


Hook the yarn and pull through the last two loops.


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How to Crochet an Afghan…or How to Do Tunisian Crochet

Tunisian Stitch Afghan

This is more than a common granny square…this is what is known as an afghan stitch or tunisian crochet. A few months ago I decided to make another afghan using this method. It’s the second one I’ve made, but this time instead of using my left over yarn I came up with the idea to make it a little more fancy. The house and star patterns are done in a basic cross-stitch and really could be anything you want. What I didn’t realize was how long it was going to take me to finish this project. It was a mammoth undertaking but slowly it’s came together. Since the chances of me making another one like this in the near future is slim to none, I figured I might as well share it with everyone.

To start with, you can make the squares any size you like.Β For my project I’m making them 41 stitches across and 40 rows long.Β I found an actualΒ afghan hookΒ at my local Michael’s store but you can use a regular crochet hook in whatever size you want.Β An afghan hook is very long and has an end on it like the end of a knitting needle.Β If you can’t find one you can use a traditional style hook.Β To keep the stitches from falling off the end of a regular crochet hook, you can wrap a rubber band around the end to help hold them on.Β The size of the hook you use can be whatever you like.Β I’m using a size 5 mm (size 8 US) hook and the next size smaller for doing the edging around each square once it’s was completed.

Tunisian Stitch Afghan

Like my knitted sock pattern, this is a read online only pattern. I never had the gumption to make it available as a download. If you’d like to see that change, please contact me and I’ll see what I can do.


To Do the Afghan Stitch (or How to Tunisian Crochet):

Chain 41

1st Row: In the second chain from the hook, pull up a loop as if you were making a single crochet.

Without completing the previous stitch, pull up a loop through the next chain.

Pull up a loop through the next chain and repeat until you get to the end of the chain.  You will have 41 loops on your crochet hook.

With the 1st loop on the end of your hook, chain 1.

With the loop you just made, pull up a loop through this stitch and the next loop on your hook.

Pull up a loop through the loop you just made and the next loop on your hook.  Repeat this until there is only one loop remaining on your hook.

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2nd Row: There will be a vertical bar formed by each stitch from the last row.  You work the stitches along these bars.

Place your hook under the first bar.  Draw up a loop as if making a single crochet. Do not complete the stitch.

Place your hook under the next bar draw up another loop.  Repeat this with all of the bars. 

The last stitch looks like two chains.  Draw up a loop through the top chain.  You will have 41 loops on your hook.

With the first loop on your hook, chain 1.

Draw a loop through the loop you just made and the next loop on your hook.  Repeat until there is only one loop remaining on your hook.

Repeat row 2 for each subsequent row. 

You can make the squares as long as you want.  For my project I’m making 40 rows.

To finish:

There will be one loop on your hook.  Place your hook under the vertical bar.  Draw up a loop but this time, complete the single crochet. Repeat with all the bars.  Once again the last stitch looks like 2 chains.  Draw up a loop through the top chain and complete the single crochet. Finish off.

When your square is completed they tend to roll up. A quick ironing will help the fibers relax and lie flat. Be sure to read the care instructions that came with your yarn. Some may have specific recommendations on temperature settings or blocking.

To create the edging on your pieces, you can do whatever you like. You may want to surround it with a combination of rows like double crochet and single crochet, or you may want single crochet with the following rows in the back stitch of previous rows. It really doesn’t matter and is your personal preference. Just be sure that your work lies flat. You may need to use a smaller crochet hook than the one you used to make the squares to create a flat edge or decrease where necessary.

My project is 2 rows of double crochet and one row of single crochet on the 2 side edges. I’m then stitching the squares together along these edges making a long strip. I then do 2 rows of double crochet and one row of single crochet along the tops and bottoms of these strips. Then, I’m sewing the strips together and working in the ends. 

For a more interesting effect you can try using two colours of yarn and alternate the colours for each row. The yarn will naturally keep to the back when you switch between colours. You can also try using a very fine yarn or fingering with a regular worsted weight yarn. Work them together as if they are one strand.

For myself, I think that this will be my first and last afghan like this. I’ve been considering maybe making pillows with this stitch and doing more elaborate cross-stitch decorations on them. I’ve also considered wall hangings to be more like art pieces, but I always have a list as long as my arm of to-do projects in the works. 

I hope you found this helpful or at the very least inspiring. If you are enjoying the free patterns and how-to pics, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and helps me tremendously. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

If you need more help than what I’ve given here, by all means feel free to contact me here.  

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How to Crochet Jewelry – Quick Crochet Bracelet

If you’ve crocheted before and are familiar with most of the stitches, this will be a snap for you to make. If you’re new, it may push you a bit, but is still totally doable. It’s extremely repetitive and once you catch on, the repeated sections will be second nature to you.

I’ve written instructions to make the bracelet in one colour (easiest if you’re new to crocheting) and separate instructions for the two-tone version. Only Round 2 is a bit different, but I figured it would be easier to have it written out in full for both versions instead of having to scroll back to look. God bless copy and paste! Keep scrolling down the page to read the two-tone instructions.

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If you’re making the single colour bracelet, selecting a variegated thread could add some interesting variations to the look of the bracelet. Sorry I never made a one colour one though. I’m rather fond of two colour…

Not a fan of reading online? You can always download the pattern from my website –

Quick and Easy Crochet Bracelet. Some things never change πŸ˜€

But let’s get to the pattern.

2 tone purple bracelet

Things you need:

1 or 2 balls of crochet cotton thread

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook

A pretty button ( approximately 1/2” or 1.5 cm diameter)

Gauge:  

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. This pattern can be made as long as you like and you can easily adjust the length to what you want when you’re making it. Each loop adds approximately 25/32″ or 2 cm. It depends how tightly you crochet. Generally speaking, I make my bracelets approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length. I make 10 loops total for this pattern but you can add or make less as you see fit.

Another point to remember, your final product will stretch a bit longer as the stitches relax over time or if you press it with an iron.

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Single Colour Bracelet  

(keep scrolling if you want the 2 colour version)

Starting loop:

Chain 7. Tr-trc (triple treble crochet – wrap the thread 6 time around the hook) in 7th  chain from hook.

Additional loops:

Chain 8. Tr-trc in 7th chain from hook. Repeat 8 more times for 10 loops total. You can add more or make less loops depending on the length you want.

Round 1:  Ch1. *12 sc in loop just formed. Sl st in ch between loops.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Work 24 sc in last loop. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. 12 sc in last loop. Join with sl st to first sc.

Round 2:  *2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * 2  more  times. Ch 6.  In the next loop after sl st in space between loops, skip next 3 sts and starting in the 4th  st,  🐸  5 sc, ch 6.  🐸ᅠRepeat from  πŸΈοΎ to  πŸΈοΎ down the length of the bracelet. In last loop starting after the sl st between loops, skip first 3 sts and starting in the 4th st  β›„  2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.β›„  Repeat from  β›„  to  β›„  5  more  times. Ch 6. Repeat from  πŸΈοΎ to  πŸΈοΎ down the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops and starting in the 4th st, repeat from * to * 3 times total. Join with sl st  in the back loop  of the first sc of the round.

Quick crochet Bracelet

Round 3:  Sc in the back loop of every sc of previous round. (Sc, hd, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc) in every ch 6 space. Join with sl st to first sc of the round.

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite of either loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!


Two-Tone Bracelet

Starting loop:

Chain 7. Tr-trc (triple treble crochet – wrap the thread 6 time around the hook) in 7th  chain from hook.

Additional loops:

Chain 8. Tr-trc in 7thchain from hook. Repeat 8 more times for 10 loops total. You can add more or make less loops depending on the length you want.

Round 1:  Ch1. *12 sc in loop just formed. Sl st in ch between loops.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Work 24 sc in last loop. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. 12 sc in last loop. Join with sl st to first sc. Break thread.

Round 2:In any loop other than a loop on the end, and starting after the sl st between loops, skip the first 3 sts join the thread in the 4th  st, ch 1 (counts as first sc), 4  sc, ch 6.  πŸοΎ 5 sc, ch 6.🐝ᅠRepeat from  πŸοΎ to  πŸ down the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops, skip first 3 sts and starting in the 4th st  πŸΉοΎ 2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.  πŸΉοΎ Repeat from  πŸΉοΎ to  πŸΉοΎ 5  more  times. Ch 6. Repeat from  πŸοΎ to  πŸοΎ down the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops, and starting in the 4th st, repeat from 🐹ᅠto  πŸΉοΎ 6 times total. Ch 6. Join with sl st  in the back loop  of the first sc of the round.

Quick crochet Bracelet

Round 3:  Sc in the back loop of every sc of previous round. (Sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc) in every ch 6 space. Join with sl st to first sc of the round.

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite of either loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

Hints and Tips:

It is very easy to either miss a chain, chain the wrong number, or sc the wrong number by accident in Round 1. This will throw off the counts for Round 2 and you may end up with too many or not enough sc. Don’t panic! Round 3 is very forgiving and will hide all. As long as your skipped stitches on either side of the 5 sc clusters are the same, you won’t really be able to tell; even if you only make 4 stitches or make it 6 sc. Make it work with what you have. Another fix, you can either sc stitches together if too many or sc 2 stitches in one stitch if you don’t have enough. FYI making things work like this, works great for all projects. Many times it can be hidden in a seam or the back of the work πŸ˜‰

No matter what, don’t stretch out the necklace or bracelet before you are completely finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making your project. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches.

Be sure you don’t twist your loops when adding the sc’s in Round 1. The chains should be on the  BOTTOM  of the loop and the tr-trc on the  TOP.

A simple rule to follow for this very repetitive pattern, after the 5 sc clusters and the large numbers of sc’s made on the end loops, always remember to ch 6. Simply put, every time you run across the sl st between the loops, ch 6.

And the best tip of all, if you like this pattern and would like to see more in the future, Help Support My Work!


Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double crochet

trc – treble (or triple) crochet

tr-trc – triple treble crochet (wrap the thread around the hook 6 times)

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

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How to Knit Socks & Graft a Toe – With Photos

Hand Knitted Socks - Free Pattern

Socks are one of those things that you can make as individual as you are. Made in the round on 4 double pointed needles, it may seem intimidating at first, but really it’s not. And with a little practise you’ll get just as hooked as me.

If you are just getting started one standard ball of yarn, like the kind you can get at Walmart, should be enough to make a pair of ankle socks as pictured above. Choose an acrylic yarn or a blended worsted weight. You can use wool, but cleaning them may be a hassle (shrinkage) and cotton yarn doesn’t stretch enough to make a comfortable pair of socks. It also gets up your nose when working with it. Just want full disclosure here πŸ˜‰


To cast on, I cast all the stitches on one needle, then take the first 1/3 of the stitches and slip them onto a free needle, then take the last 1/3 of the stitches and put those on another needle, leaving the remaining 1/3 on the original needle.This method helps me to not twists my stitches. I then start to knit in the round. 

Included with this pattern are photos of every step showing how to graft the toe, or sewing the toe stitches together. Not only does this technique work for socks, but it is the same procedure for grafting the stitches for mittens. If sone correctly, it makes for a nearly perfect seam. Keep scrolling down the page to see the instructions and pics. 

This pattern is available as a read online only. No download is available. Sorry. There are so many sock patterns already, I’m sure a quick search will find one you can download. 

A quick tip about working with double pointed needles (DPN). I find that using wood or bamboo a bit better than working with the metal needles. Sometimes, when working with the metal needles, you’ll find that you get a line that runs the length of your sock where you start working on a new needle. For some reason, and for me, using bamboo prevents this. 

Also, check your tension first! I use a size Size 7 needle (Size 4.5 if your Canadian) with worsted weight yarn and with the tension of:


If you are loving the free patterns, please consider making a small donation to Help Support My Work! If you are unable to do so, I totally understand. Sharing this and other patterns you like with others on your social media or through email, helps me too. I’ve provided handy links above to help you do just that πŸ˜„

Knitted Socks Pattern
Knitted Socks Pattern

10 stitches = 2 inches

14 rows = 2 inches

Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need.

Things You Need:

Abbreviations:

K = Knit

P = Purl

K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together

P2tog = Purl 2 stitches together

Cast on 36 stitches loosely.

There needs to be some stretch to be able to get them on.

Rounds 1-15: K2 P2

Rounds 16-17: Knit

Heel flap:

Slip last 9 stitches from round 17 to free needle, knit next 9 stitches from next needle onto needle with the 9 slipped stitches from round 17. You will have four needles and will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Transfer the three stitches on the two needles onto the back needle. Split these 18 stitches between two needles. It will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

You will work these split 18 stitches later to form the top of the foot.

Turn your work. You are now creating the heel flap from the slipped stitches and will work in rows along the 18 stitches that are on the single needle.

With the wrong side (Purl side) facing you. Purl the row. Turn.

With the right side (Knit side) facing you. Knit the row. Turn.

Repeat stocking knit (Purl one row, Knit one row) until the flap measure approximately 2 1/2 inches ending with a Purl row. Turn.

With right side (Knit side) facing you K8 stitches, K2 tog, K8. Turn. (17 stitches on the needle)

Next row: P8, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K1, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P2 , P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K3, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P4, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K5, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P6, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K7, K2 tog, K1.

You will now start knitting around.

Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form the gusset. Transfer the 18 held stitches to one needle. Knit the 18 held stitches. Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form gusset.

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

K4 stitches of heel. Slip remaining 5 stitches onto next needle. It will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Your needles will hold:

15 stitches side of foot

18 stitches top of foot

14 stitches side of foot

Next 2 rounds: Knit.

Next round: K12, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K11.

Next 2 rounds: K45

Next round: K11, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K10.

Next 2 rounds: K43

Next round: K10, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K9.

Next 2 rounds: K41

Next round: K9, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K8.

Next 2 rounds: K39

Next round: K8, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K7.

Next 2 rounds: K37

Next round: K7, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K6.

Next round: K35

Repeat the last round (K35) until measures the length you want less 2 1/2 inches. To measure lay the sock flat and measure from the needle holding the side gusset stitches to the back of the heel.

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Toe:

Round 1: K1, K2 tog, K11, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K1

Rounds 2-3: Knit

Round 4: K1, K2 tog, K9, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K10, K2tog, K1

Rounds 5-6: Knit

Round 7: K1, K2 tog, K7, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K8, K2tog, K1

Rounds 8-9: Knit

Round 10: K1, K2 tog, K5, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K1

Rounds 11-12: Knit

Round 13: K1, K2 tog, K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K1

Rounds 14-15: Knit.

Your needles will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Transfer stitches onto two needles. 7 stitches and 8 stitches on each needle.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft toe and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.


Graft toe:

With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown. Drop this stitch.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.



Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.


🌺 Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.


Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. 🌺


Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 until there are no stitches left on either needle.


 Pull the yarn tight.


Toe is now grafted.

Make another sock to match!


Extra Sock Knitting Tips:

Check your tension first! There’s nothing more disappointing than putting a bunch of effort into a project and then having it turn out to be the wrong size. The gauge of the rows is not so important for this project as you can make it to fit any length of foot. The number of stitches per inch is VERY important! Make sure your gauge is correct.

Work in your ends instead of just knotting them off. Knots can make your foot sore when you step on them or if they rub on your toe.

This pattern can make any size sock up to about a man’s size 10 or a woman’s size 11.

This pattern will make ankle length socks. To make a longer sock like these purple ones at the beginning of this post, just knit more plain rows (rows 16-17) before you start to make the heel flap. If you want a sock that will fit further up the calf you will need to cast on more stitches and then decrease evenly to the number of stitches required to make the foot. This takes some tinkering and can be hard if you’re new to sock knitting.

A good point to remember if you are making a larger size sock has to do with decreasing stitches for the gusset. A good rule of thumb is to decrease to the amount of stitches to the amount you originally cast on. For example if you are making an ankle sock to fit a larger size foot, you can cast on 40 stitches, make the heel flap 1/2 inch longer, pick up 12 stitches along each side of the foot for the gusset and decrease stitches until you are down to 39 stitches around the foot.

And if you are making a larger sock, and this is from personal experience, write down how many stitches you cast on, how long you make the heel flap, and how many stitches you pick up along the edge. It can be difficult to recall the numbers if you have to leave the project for a while.

And for the sake of a little shameless self promotion…if you learn how to knit socks you can also knit these sheep slippers.  You can read the pattern online here Learn to Knit Adult Sized Sheep Slippers. There are lots of photos and detailed descriptions on how to make them.

If you are enjoying the free patterns and picture tutorials, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and it helps me so much. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. If you would like to link back, that always awesome and feel free to do so. Happy knitting!


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Cable Knit Wine Bottle Cozy or Koozie

Knit a Wine Bottle Cozy or Koozie

What every overly pretentious bottle of wine needs – a hipster sweater! Dress up that cheap bottle of $8 wine for your next hoity-toity dinner party. I’m nearly certain no one will notice you cheaped out and the sweater alone will wow them into a false sense ostentatiousness!

While this project looks complicated, in truth, cable stitches aren’t that difficult to master. It’s VERY repetitive as you can see by the instructions below. Once you see the pattern forming, you’ll know when to pull your stitches either to the front or the back of your work. That’s all you do with a cable needle. It’s a smaller needle that holds, then let’s you work the stitches in a different order to form braids, or in this instance, cable patterns. If you’re not sure how to cable, I provided a simple explanation how to do it and linked the abbreviations C2B C2FTS, etc. to these descriptions. There are also a couple videos I added showing how to do the stitches. I’m assuming this isn’t your first knitting project and know knitting basics.

Knit a Wine Bottle Cozy or Koozie

I made this a free pattern because it’s a simple project to learn how to cable knit if you’ve never done it before. It uses less than a standard ball of worsted weight yarn and buttons are optional. The cozy doesn’t have button holes and is simply sewn up to form a tube. You can add buttons if you wish. Being of the lazy ilk, I glued mine on πŸ˜‰. 

Also, leave a long length of yarn when starting to cast on. Eighteen inches or so should suffice. You can use this extra yarn to sew up the cozy and save on sewing in ends. No matter how long I’ve been knitting and crocheting I still hate sewing in ends and will try to save everyone from this tedious task whenever possible.


Like the majority of the patterns I’ve written, this pattern is available as an instant download on my website. You can download the PDF version for free at this link: Hipster Wine Cozy or Koozie.

If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and help me more than words can say! If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

Things you will need:

Worsted weight yarn

4.5 mm (size 7 US) knitting needles

cable needle

5 buttonsΒ (optional)

NeedleΒ to sew seam

With the 4.5 cm knitting needles

Cast on 53

Row 1: K3 (P1 K1) repeat 22 times more. P1 K3.

Row 2: Sl 1 K3 (P1 K1) repeat 22 times more. P1 K3.

Row 3: Sl 1 K3 (P1 K1) repeat 22 times more. P1 K3.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: repeat row 2.

Row 7: Sl 1 K2 P2 K2. In next st P2 (increase made). (K8 P2 K2 P2) repeat 2 times more. K3 (54 sts)

Row 8: Sl 1 K4 (P2 K2 P8 K2) repeat 2 times more. P2 K5.

Row 9: Sl 1 K2 (P2 TS P2 K8) Repeat 2 times more. P2 TS P2 K3.

Row 10: Repeat row 8. (Repeat this row for all even rows until forming the neck of the wine cozy.)

Row 11: Sl 1 K2 (P2 K2 C2B C2F) repeat 2 times more. P2 K2 P2 K3.

Row 12: Repeat row 8.

Row 13: Repeat row 9.

Row 14: Repeat row 8.

Row 15: Sl 1 K2 (P2 K2 P2 K8) repeat 2 times more. P2 K2 P2 K3.

Row 16: Repeat row 8.

Row 17: Sl 1 K2 (P2 TS P2 C2B C2F) repeat 2 times more. P2 TS P2 K3.

Row 18: Repeat row 8.

Row 19: Repeat row 15.

Row 20: Repeat row 8.

Row 21: Repeat row 9.

Row 22: Repeat row 8.

Row 23: Repeat row 11.

Row 24: Repeat row 8.

Row 25: Repeat row 9.

Row 26: Repeat row 8.

Row 27: Repeat row 15.

The pattern continues with rows 16-27. Repeat these 12 rows 3 times more.

Repeat rows 16-20 once.

Shaping the bottle neck:

Next row: Sl 1 K2 (P2 Sl St K1 PSSO P2 K8) repeat 2 times more. P2 Sl St K1 PSSO P2 K3.

Next row : Sl 1 K4 (P1 K2 P8 K2) repeat 2 times more. K5.

Next row: Sl 1 K2 (P2 P2tog P1 C2B C2F) repeat 2 times more. P2 P2tog P1 K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K6 (p8 K4) repeat 2 times more. K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K2 (P2tog twice K8) repeat 2 times more. P2tog twice. K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K4 (P8 K2) repeat 2 times more. K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K2 (P2tog K8) repeat 2 times more. P2 K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K3 (P8 K1) repeat 2 times more. K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K2 (P1 C2B C2F) repeat 2 times more. P1 K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K3 (P8 K1) repeat 2 times more. K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K2 (P1 Sl St K1 PSSO K4 K2tog) repeat 2 times more. P1 K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K3 (P6 K1) repeat 2 times more. K3

Next row: Sl 1 K2 (P1 Sl St K1 PSSO K2 K2tog) repeat 2 times more. P1 K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K3 (P4 K1) repeat 2 times more. K3.

Next row: Sl 1 K2 (P1 Sl St K1 PSSO K2 tog) repeat 2 times more. P1 K3.

Next row: Sl st K3 (P2 K1) repeat 2 times more. K3.

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Make collar:

Next row: K3. Pick up a stitch (increase made). K10. Pick up a stitch. K3.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K4. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K4.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K5. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K5.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K6. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K6.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K7. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K7.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K8. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K8.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K9. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K9.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K10. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K10.

Next row: Cast off.

TS β€“ Twist Stitch

Transfer the next stitch onto a cable needle and hold the stitch to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle.

C2B β€“ Cable 2 Back

Transfer the next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle. For photos showing how to do this, click this link. Scroll to the bottom of the page.

C2F β€“ Cable 2 Forward

Transfer the next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle. For photos showing how to do this, click this link. Scroll to the bottom of the page.

Sl St K1 PSSO β€“ Slip Stitch Knit 1 Pass Slipped Stitch Over

Transfer the next stitch onto your other knitting needle. Knit the next stitch. Pass the held stitch over the stitch you just made. Kind of like lassoing the stitch you just made with the stitch you transferred over to the other needle.

Pick up a stitch

Pick up the strand of yarn between the two needles and place it on the needle you are knitting your stitches from (If you’re right handed it’s the needle in your left hand. If you’re left handed it the needle in your right hand). Knit this new stitch. You can see pics of how to do this here – Picking up Stitches.

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Knit a Simple Dishcloth

Basic Dishcloth knitting Pattern

This is a great project for anyone who is just learning how to knit. It’s not an overly complicated project and the yarn is easy to find and not too expensive. Best of all the final result gives you something you can use, even if it doesn’t turn out perfectly πŸ˜‰

If you are a new knitter, I’ve added links demonstrating how to do each of the stitches necessary for this project. I would recommend that getting the basics down first with a swatch or two, then getting into this project πŸ˜„


I use a sizeΒ 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needlesΒ but this can be done with whatever size you like. The size of you needles will determine the final size of your dishcloth. You will also need one ball (42.5 g or 1.5 oz.)Β of crafter 100% cotton yarn. They are available in a variety of colours just about everywhere. Look for sales or buy a big ball if you plan on making a lot of dishcloths. And don’t forget about Amazon! There’s always a great selection ofΒ 100% cotton yarnΒ there.Β 

Unlike the majority of my patterns, this one is only available online and not for download.

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The dishcloth itself is knit along the diagonal, like how TVs are measured. You can make it as big as you want, but I find 45 to 50 stitches makes for a good sized cloth. If you would like it larger, you will need to buy more balls of yarn. Make sure that your lot numbers on the balls you select are the same or else the colours may be off.

Basic Dishcloth knitting Pattern

Cast on 3

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Knit

Row 3: K1, YO, Knit to end of row. Repeat this row until there are 48 stitches on your needle.

Next Row: K1, YO, K2tog, K to last 4 stitches, K2tog, K2. Repeat this row until there are 5 stitches remaining.

Next Row: K, YO, (K2tog) twice. 4 stitches remaining.

Next Row: K, K2tog, K. 3 stitches remaining. Cast off. Work in ends.

You can make variations of this basic pattern by making wider edging: Instead of K1 before the YO you can K2 or K3. You could also make the center as a stocking knit stitch (purl one row then knit the next).

Feel free to use this pattern to make your own dishcloths to sell or give away. Just don’t reprint this pattern in any form without my permission, but linking to it and sharing is always appreciated!

If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

Basic Dishcloth knitting Pattern
Basic Dishcloth knitting Pattern
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How to Knit a Way Cool Monster Purse

Knitted Monster Purse Pattern

Make your own conversation piece when you knit this funky and original monster purse. Think a monster purse is a β€œbit much”? You can use the same design without the eyes and appendages and have a really cool fluffy purse. Still guaranteed to get you the occasional comment and looks of envy.

I’ve made this pattern as simple as possible with the least amount of sewing necessary (my least favourite thing to do).  It doesn’t even need a zipper, as I designed it to have a flap to fold over and hold in your valuables securely.

Knitted Monster Purse Pattern

The pattern is fairly simple and easy to follow, but in case you have a hard time with the fluff stitch, I made a video which shows the technique. In case you don’t have access to wifi, I also provided pictures and descriptions on how to make the fluff stitch. The video and pictures are at the end of the pattern.

If you like, you can download the pattern as a PDF from my website with this link: Fun and Easy Knitted Monster Purse. That way you can print it if you prefer a paper version.


Like the free videos and patterns? Then please share my work! Those handy little icons below πŸ‘‡πŸΌ let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free learn, how you canΒ Help Support My Work.


Abbreviations:

K = Knit

P = Purl

FS = Fluff Stitch. This is the loop stitch and is described in detail after the tips and hints.

Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need. The tension for this project is:

10 stitches = 2 inches

14 rows = 2 inches

Because there is no sizing to a purse, the tension isn’t overly important. A little tighter or loser won’t make much difference to the final product.

Things you need:

One ball ofΒ worsted weight yarn

Pair ofΒ size 4.5 knitting needlesΒ (single pointed)

2 –Β 1 inch google eyes

large eyed needle for sewing up seams



Optional:

Cloth to line the purse

Needle and thread to sew lining to purse

Body:

Cast on 55 sts

Row 1 (and all odd rows): Knit

Row 2: P16 FS23 P16

Row 3 – 19: Repeat the rows 1 and 2. With the WRONG side facing you…

Row 20: P16 FS6 P2 FS7 P2 FS6 P16.

Row 21: Knit

Row 22: Repeat row 20.

Row 23 – 30: Repeat rows 1 and 2.

Row 31: Knit

Row 32: Purl

Row 33 – 67: repeat rows 31 and 32. With RIGHT side facing you, cast off.

Arms and Legs (make four)

Cast on 6 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3 – 24: Repeat rows 1 and 2. With RIGHT side facing, cast off.

Strap:

Cast on 6 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the length you desire. With RIGHT side facing, cast off.


Tips and hints:

You don’t need to sew up the seams of the legs, arms or the strap. The way that it’s knit causes the swatches to roll up on their own. You can draw the stitches at the ends of the feet and hands together with the yarn at the end to round them off, but it’s not needed.

The top will automatically roll too! The casting off finishes the edge.

When making the strap, remember that the knitting will stretch. Make it shorter than you want the final length to be.

You can line the purse with any sort of material. A piece of material from an old t-shirt would do nicely.

You don’t need to make a monster. You can skip making the arms and legs and instead of making the empty places for the eyes in rows 20 and 22, make the FS in all 23 stitches.

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Make the Fluff or Loop Stitch

If you would prefer to see the video you can watch it here. Keep scrolling down to the bottom of the page or you can see it here – How to Knit the Fluff or Loop Stitch

To make the Fluff stitch (FS): Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up & over) CLOCKWISE around the needle and the index finger of your LEFT hand TWICE. Leave these loops on your finger until you are finished knitting the entire stitch!

Knitting the loop stitch

Wrap the yarn ONCE around the needle only.

Knitting the loop stitch

Pull all 3 loops of yarn through stitch as knitting a regular stitch.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert the needle in your LEFT hand through these three loops and transfer these 3 loops onto the LEFT hand needle.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.

Knitting the loop stitch
Knitting the loop stitch

The stitch is now completed.

There also this handy video that can teach you how to make the stitch.



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How to Knit Texting Mittens

Learn to Knit Texting Mitts

Improve your texting in cold climates with these thumbless mittens. More than just a pair of fingerless gloves, these keep your hands warm and only expose your thumbs when needed. The thumb pocket is sewn on and the flap is secured at the base of the palm with Velcro* for easy access. The flap hangs in the back out of the way to enable your texting abilities. Plan on using your thumbs for a while? Then simply tuck the flap into the thumb pocket.

The sizes are each written separately as each size is a bit different in row and stitch counts. Scroll down this post to the size you would like to make. Medium fits the average lady’s hand, large for men, and small for pre-teens.


Don’t want to come back here to read the pattern? You can download the pattern to your tablet, phone or computer from my website at Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts.

If you enjoy this and my other free knitting and crochet patterns, please Help Support My Work. It doesn’t have to be financial, though that’s always appreciated. Every like, share and follow also helps me keep tis website running.

Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball ofΒ worsted weight yarnΒ will be more than enough)

Size 4.5 mm double pointed needles

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastener (AKA – Velcro)

Glue

Learn to Knit Texting Mitts

Gauge

10 stitches = 2 inches

13 rows = 2 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts.. There should be 31 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 35 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 31 sts until work measures approximately 3.5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K10 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K6, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (if you scroll to the end of the post there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Working over the 3 sts you just cast on, K3. Leave these 3 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Transfer these 3 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 25: Knit

Round 28: K2tog, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2tog, K1 .

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog four times

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

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Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 35 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 38 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 35 sts until work measures approximately 4 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K12 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 38 – 39: Knit

Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 39 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 41 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 39 sts until work measures approximately 5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K14 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K13, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K12, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 8: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: K1, pick up a st, K5, pick up a st, K1. (9 sts)

Row 16: Purl

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: Purl

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Purl

Row 21: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 9 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 22 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 4 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 40: Knit

Round 41: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K1, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.If you are unfamiliar with how to end the fingertips on mittens (this works for socks as well), I’ve added a picture tutorial at the end of another pattern. Instead of me adding all the photos and instructions again, here’s the link to learn how – 
How to Graft Fingertips

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Thumb Flap

With the yarn left from where you continued the thumb, attach the thumb flap to the mitten. Make sure that you attach the thumb flap to the back side of the left and right mittens accordingly. Easiest way is to lay the mitts flat with the thumbs pointing in opposite directions.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro that will fit on the base of the thumb flap. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the THUMB FLAP first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the thumb flap forward in the toasty warm thumb position. With the Velcro still together, place the Velcro where the bottom of the flap touches the palm of the mitten. Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.Like grafting the fingertips, I’ve also shown how to pick up a stitch without leaving a hole. If you’d like to see how it’s done, here’s the link to learn how – How to Pick up a Stitch

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

Make sure when attaching the Velcro to the thumb flap, that the fuzzy half of the Velcro is what you use for the flap. In other words, which ever side feels less rough. The other pokey side should go on the palm of the mitt. That way the Velcro won’t stick to the inside of the thumb flap when folded back into itself.

When picking up stitches to finish the thumb on the mitt, leave a long piece of yarn to sew on the thumb flap. This saves on the number of ends to sew in when you’re done.

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

*Velcro is a registered trademark.

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How to Crochet a Dishcloth – A Beginner’s Pattern

How to crochet a dishcloth - Free pattern

The pattern itself is very easy to do and definitely one that a person new to crocheting could follow.  I’ve also provided the pattern with two different edges.  My personal preference is to end it with a backwards single crochet, but a single crochet in each stitch and row will also work.

If you are new to crocheting, I’ve included links to points in the video to help you with specific rows and stitches. If you’d like to watch the video from the beginning you can use this link: Crochet a Dishcloth or you can scroll down to watch the video from this page. If you’d like to download the FREE pattern, you can download my website: Crochet a Dishcloth.


To help you with some of the more tricky parts, all the rows (and a few of the stitches) are clickable links that will take you to the correct point in the video that demonstrates exactly how to do it. The links will take you off this site and on to YouTube. If you want to watch the video here, scroll to the bottom of the page to view it.

If you like this crochet pattern, be sure to check out my crochet skull dishcloth.

Enjoying the free videos and patterns and would like to see more? Then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and help me immensely 😊. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

Things you will need:

Size 8 (5 mm) crochet hook

50 gr (1 3/4 oz)Β ball of crochet cottonΒ (Click that link to see what I mean. It’s NOT the regular acrylic yarn but 100% cotton.)

Ch 42

Row 1: Sc in 4th ch from the hook.  *Ch 1, skip a ch, sc in next ch.*  Repeat from * to * until the end of the chain.  Ch 2, turn. (20 sc)  If you have too many chains see how to fix that here: How to Undo Chain Stitches.

Row 2: Sc in the ch 1 space.  *Ch 1, sc in next ch 1 space.*  Repeat from * to * until the end of the row.  Sc in the ch 4 space from the beginning chain.  Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: Sc in the ch 1 space.  *Ch 1, sc in next ch 1 space.*  Repeat from * to * until the end of the row.  Sc in the ch 2 space from the previous row.  Ch 2, turn.

Repeat row 3 until the dishcloth is square or the desired length.

How to crochet a dishcloth

Edging:

Single Crochet (White dishcloth as shown above):

Row 1: Sc in each row along the left edge of the dishcloth.  3 sc in the corner st.  1 sc in each sc along bottom edge.  3 sc in corner st.  Sc in each row along the right edge of the dishcloth.  3 sc in the corner st.  1 sc in each sc along top edge.  Finish off.

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Backwards Single Crochet (Purple dishcloth as shown above):

Row 1: Complete 1 bsc (backwards single crochet) in every 2nd stitch of the row you just made. 1 bsc in the corner st.  1 bsc in every 2nd row along the right edge of the dishcloth.  1 bsc in the corner st.  1 bsc in every 2nd st along the bottom edge of the dishcloth.  1 bsc in the corner st.  1 bsc in every 2nd row along the left edge. 1 bsc in the corner st.  Finish off.

How to do a bsc (backwards single crochet):

Here’s the video that can show you how.  Keep scrolling down the page to see the pictorial how-to.

Unlike regular crochet stitches and instead of working from right to left in regular crochet (if you’re right handed), you’re going to work from left to right.

Step 1:  Insert the hook from front to back in the next st.

How to crochet a dishcloth

Step 2: Hook the yarn and draw the loop through the front of your work.

Unlike regular crochet stitches and instead of working from right to left in regular crochet (if you're right handed), you're going to work from left to right. Step 1: Insert the hook from front to back in the next st.

Step 3:  Hook the yarn and draw through the two loops.  Pretty simple, huh?

Unlike regular crochet stitches and instead of working from right to left in regular crochet (if you're right handed), you're going to work from left to right. Step 1: Insert the hook from front to back in the next st.

You can adjust the size as you see fit.  I prefer a smaller dishcloth but you may like it larger. You can either add more chains at the start of the cloth or you can make more rows. Either way will work but remember to buy more yarn if you want it larger. You can also use a larger size hook to make the stitches looser.

And as promised, here is the complete step-by-step video for you to watch.

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How to Crochet Jewelry – Friendship and Flower Bracelet

Crochet Jewelry - Flower and Friendship Bracelet

Back on the bracelet train! This time it’s for a beautiful flower that you can wear on your wrist. I really enjoy making these. It’s fun to see how the flower will turn out based on the colour choices you choose.

The bracelet itself is a very basic design and can easily be made as a stand alone item. Originally, I was going to publish the bracelet alone but figured if you wanted to make just the bracelet you could make that choice all on your own.


And if you are looking to make some extra cash and sell these, which I’m always cool with btw, the cost to make these is next to nothing. You can purchase crochet cotton thread for very reasonable costs at second hand stores and at many big box stores.

Like all my crochet patterns, if you would prefer to read this off line, you can also download it from another section of my website. To do so, please click on the following link – How to Crochet – Flower and Friendship Bracelet.

Crochet Jewelry - Flower and Friendship Bracelet

If you are enjoying the free patterns and would like to see more, then please share my work! Those handy little icons down there πŸ‘‡πŸΌ let you do it easily and helps me so much. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


Things you need:

3 balls of complimentary colours of crochet cotton thread 

(a darker one for center, a mid-range colour for the inner flower and a lighter colour for the outside petals. Choose one of these colours to make the bracelet. The yellow bracelet uses a dark center, medium colour for the interior flower and bracelet and a variegated thread colour for the outside petals. Mix it up with more thread colours if you like!).

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook

Crochet Jewelry - Flower and Friendship Bracelet

Gauge:

It’s not really important for this crochet project as there isn’t a specific length needed. Make the bracelet as long as you like, keeping in mind that the stitches will relax and stretch a bit over time. The flower shouldn’t be too floppy though. You want the stitches tight enough to hold the shape of the outside petals.

Bracelet:

Ch 10

Sc in 2nd chain from hook. 3 sc. 3 sc in next ch. 4 sc. Ch 1. Turn.

Next row: Skip the 1st st. Work the remaining sts in the back loop of the sts of the previous row (creates the ridge effect). 4 sc. 3 sc in the next st. 3 sc. Sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn.

Repeat this row until the bracelet is the length you want. Remember, it will stretch a bit over time!

Don’t turn your work when working the last row!

Edging (optional): If you are making the edging a different colour, don’t ch 1! Break your thread and rejoin with new colour in the last st you made.

1 sc in each row down the length of the bracelet. 3 sc in the corner st. 2 sc. Pull up a loop in the next 3 sts. Draw through all 3 loops on the hook. 2 sc. 3 sc in the corner st. 1 sc in each row down the length of the bracelet to the corner. 3 sc in the corner. Sl st in each st to the corner. Join to original corner.

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Flower:

Ch 2.

Round 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to 1st sc.

Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in same st. 2 sc in each sc of previous round. Join with sl st in the back loop of 1st sc. (12 sc). Break thread.

Round 3 – Inner Flower (with mid-range colour): Work all of the following sts in the back loop of previous round. Ch 3 (counts as 1st dc). 3 trc. 1 dc. Drop the loop from hook. Insert hook through the top of the Ch 3 of this round and the loop you just dropped.

Inner petal - crocheted flower
Inner petal - crocheted flower

Draw the loop through the top of the ch 3.

Inner petal - crocheted flower

Ch 3. *1 dc, 3 trc, 1 dc. Drop the loop from hook. Insert hook through the top of the dc at the start of this petal and the loop you just dropped. Draw a loop through the top of the 1st dc of this petal. Ch 3.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with sl st to the top of starting ch 3 of this round. Break thread.

Round 4 – Base of Outer Petals (with lightest colour): *Ch 11. Sl st in 10th ch from hook. Sl st in the st behind next petal of previous round (the stitch you created when you dropped the loop and pulled it through the dc).* Repeat from * to * around. Join last sl st to 1st ch 1 of the round.

Round 5 – Outer Petals: *Make the stitches between these symbols { } in the 10 ch loop. {1 sc. 1 hdc. 4 dc. 2 trc. Ch 3. Sl st in top of last trc made (picot made). 2 trc. 4 dc. 1 hdc. 1 sc. Sl st.} Sl st in the space behind the next petal of the inner flower (dropped stitch space).* Repeat from * to * around. Join last sl st to base of first petal. Break thread. Work in ends.


Make Ties:

Cut 4 strands of thread approximately 8 inches long. They can be the same colour as the bracelet, one of the colours used for the flower or a combination of all the thread colours. Fold in half. Insert your crochet hook through the front of your bracelet. Catch the middle where folded and pull through to form a small loop. Feed the 8 ends of the thread through the loop. Pull tight. Trim ends so they are all the same length. Repeat for the other end.

crochet flower bracelet - how to make the tie

Hints and Tips:

No matter what, don’t stretch out the bracelet before you are completely finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making your project. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches.

I decided to use ties to secure this bracelet so you can tighten it as the stitches relax and the bracelet loosens over time. This way, you can make it tighter to keep from spinning around the wrist when worn. It drives me nuts when bracelets do that 😬

Instead of making ties, you can use a button to secure the bracelet. When making the edging, add the loop to pass over the button. I’ve also used a snap to secure it when making only the bracelet with no flower. If you decide to use a button or snap, it’s best to overlap the bracelet a bit by an inch or so. Make it longer than you would if using ties.

bracelet ends.

Using variegated thread for the bracelet and/or flower will give unique effects. In particular, it will make stripes on the bracelet and blotches of colour for the petals. You may need to play with it a bit to see what kind of effect you’ll get. Colour changing threads vary in how much change there is and how much thread is dyed the colours.

You can make the bracelet thicker than what is written here. You can easily add stitches. Make sure they’re equal on both sides. For example, this row could read… Skip the 1st st. Work the remaining sts in the back loop of the sts of the previous row (creates the ridge effect). 6 sc (instead of 4). 3 sc in the next st. 5 sc (instead of 3). Sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. You’d chain 14 instead of 10 at the start. Just remember to keep the 3 sc in the middle, forming the point, the same.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble (or triple) crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here


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How to Crochet – Waves Bracelet

crochet waves bracelet pattern

I came up with this crochet bracelet design years ago and was selling the occasional one online and locally for quite some time. I’ve currently been selling old stock in my online shop, but really don’t make these much anymore. When that happens, I figure it’s time to let someone else make them and do with them as they will.

This crochet pattern is short and simple. It’s also easy to make and is a great way to use up those awesome, one of a kind buttons that are just a bit too nice to get rid of but you don’t know what else to do with them.


If you are enjoying the free patterns and would like to see more, then please share my work! Those handy little icons up there ☝🏼 let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work

Without further ado, here’s the pattern so you can get your crochet on. And the link incase you’d like to download the pattern instead – Waves Bracelet Pattern


Things you need:

1 ball of crochet cotton thread (Main colour)

1 ball complimentary colour of crochet cotton thread (accent colour or whatever you’d like the edging to be).

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook.

A pretty button (doesn’t matter what size but bigger than your average dress shirt button)

Gauge:

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. The pattern, as written, makes a bracelet that is approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length. If you’re so inclined, you can make this bracelet either longer or shorter in 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch increments. For example, if it is too long by 5/8 of an inch, then chain 6 less stitches (69 chains). If you needed the bracelet to be 3 cm longer, chain 12 more stitches than what the instructions give (87 chains).

crochet waves bracelet pattern

Chain 75.

Round 1: With main colour of thread, sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sc in each chain to the end. In the last chain, 5sc. On the opposite side (there is a small loop on the bottom of each sc you made down the chain), sc to the end of the chain. In the last chain 4sc. Join with sl st to the first sc made. Break thread.

Round 2: With complimentary colour of thread, join the thread in the 3rd sc after join of last round. Ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1. 2sc. * ch5, skip next 3 sts, 3sc * repeat from * to * 10 more times. Ch7, sc in middle st of 5sc of previous round. C7, skip next 3 sts, 3sc, repeat from * to * 11 more times. Ch7, sc in top sc of previous round. Ch7, join with sl st to 1st sc of round. Break thread.

Round 3: With main colour of thread, join in 1st ch5 loop of previous round. Working in the loop, ch2, 9dc. 10dc in the each ch5 and ch7 loop around. Join with sl st to top of ch2. Break thread.

Round 4: With complimentary colour of thread, and working in the back loop of each dc, join thread in back loop of the 5thdc of previous round. Ch1, sc in same st as join. Sc in each dc leaving the last dc of shell unworked. In this unworked dc and the 1st dc of next shell, sc2tog. (In other words, sc2tog between the last dc of this shell and 1st dc of the following shell. ) * 8sc, sc2tog * repeat from * to * 9 more times. 8sc. (You should be at the end of the bracelet between the shells) ch 10 (or however many sts you need to slide over your selected button). Sl st in sc just made forming a loop. Sc2tog in the last dc of this shell and in the 1st dc of the next shell. * 8sc, sc2tog * repeat from * to * 11 more times. 8sc. (You should be at the opposite end of the bracelet between the shells). Sc2tog over last and first dc of the end shells. Sc in remaining dc. Sl st to first sc made in the round. Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite the loop as shown above.

Work in thread ends.


Hints and Tips:

The counts for how many time you repeat the * to * sections of rounds 2 and 4 will change if you’ve made the bracelet longer or shorter than the 7 inches than I wrote this pattern.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making the bracelet.

Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches. The joins are positioned along the pattern so there isn’t too many ends in one area.

You can use 1 to 4 colours to make this bracelet. Just because I’ve only shown examples with 2 colours, doesn’t mean you can’t try something different.

When making the loop to secure the bracelet, chain as many stitches as you think you may need. Sl st to the sc and pass the button through the loop. If it is too small, undo the sl st and add more chains. If too long, undo the sl st and take some out. It’s easier to check now than later. And always easier to sl st to the sc to make sure it’s a good length.

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

2sctog – single crochet 2 stitches together

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How to Knit a Cable Scarf aka Netflix and Knit…This Scarf

Cable knit scarf knitting pattern

The perfect knitting project for binge watching the latest series on Netflix and incidentally, how I developed this pattern. To Breaking Bad, if you must know. I’m sure Walter White would be proud. FYI this pattern was written back in 2015 so that reference was a lot more timely back then. 


The pattern is easy to follow and repeats the same eight rows for the length of the scarf, which can be as long or as short as you like. If you have never knitted cables before, the pattern includes photos and instructions how to do it. By the time you’re finished this project, you’ll have mastered the art of the cable stitch, have a lovely scarf and hopefully have closure for all your favourite characters. Now in 2020, it’ll probably be something like Stranger Things. 

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You can also download the PDF directly from my website if you’d prefer to have a permanent copy on your device or computer. Click this link to go to the download portion of this site. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page.

If you need help with the pattern, you can view the complete how to from start to finish with my YouTube video: Knit a Cable Scarf. If you know how to knit but need a little extra help with forming the cables, you can watch how to do the C2F, the C2B with my videos: C2F and C2B. Or if starting the cable pattern is giving you trouble, I have a video for that too: Starting the Cable Pattern. All the video links open to a new page so you won’t lose this one.

Cable Knit Scarf Knitting Pattern

Things you need:

If you are having a tough time finding what you need, click any of the links below to get everything you need to make this scarf.

200 gr ofΒ worsted weight yarnΒ (This could be more of less depending on how long you want your scarf).

Size 5 (US size 8) single pointed knitting needlesΒ or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Cable knitting needle

Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

If your gauge is off your scarf will be either narrower or wider, but it really isn’t overly important for this project.

Loving this free knitting pattern? Do you know someone who would love it as much as you? Please share it on your social media or email it to a friend.


Cast on 40

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2-7: Sl st as if to knit. Knit across.

Row 8: Sl st as if to knit. K3 P32 K4.

Row 9: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 16 times. P1 K3.

Row 10: Sl st as if to knit. K3 (P1 K1) 16 times K4.

Repeat rows 9-10 4 times more.

🌻 Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K6 P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 K6 P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.

πŸ”₯ Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K3 (P1 K1) 3 times. P6 K1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K1 P6 K1 (K1 P1) 2 times. K5.

🌺 Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times.C2F K2 P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 C2F K2 P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.

Next row: Repeat row with πŸ”₯

Next row: Repeat row with πŸŒ»

Next row: Repeat row with πŸ”₯

Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K2 C2B P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 K2 C2B P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.

Next row: Repeat row with πŸ”₯ (πŸ„ end with this row when scarf is the desired length.)

Next row: Repeat row with 🌻

Next row: Repeat row with πŸ”₯ 🌺

Repeat rows from 🌺 to 🌺. These 8 rows form the cable pattern. End the cable pattern with the row marked with πŸ„.

Repeat until the scarf is the desired length, keeping in mind that the finished edge adds another 2 1/2 inches on to the length.

Next rows: Repeat rows 9-10 6 times. For a total of 12 rows.

Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 K32 P1 K3.

Next rows: Repeat rows 2-7.

Cast off.

How to Make the Cable:

C2F β€“ Cable 2 forward. 

With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle

Cable 2 forward knitting

Pull the stitches towards the front of your work.

Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the next 2 stitches.

Cable 2 forward knitting
Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the stitches from the cable needle.

Cable 2 forward knitting
Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the last 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2).

Cable 2 forward knitting

C2B β€“ Cable 2 backward. 

Knit the first 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2.)

Cable 2 back knitting

With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle.

Cable 2 back knitting

Pull the stitches towards the back of your work.

Cable 2 back knitting

Knit the next 2 stitches.

Knit the stitches from the cable needle.

Cable 2 back knitting
Cable 2 back knitting

C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C2B β€“ Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

Sl st – Slip 1 stitch off

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.

Hints and Tips:

Be very careful to get the stitches right at the beginning when forming the cable pattern. Once the pattern become more set, it becomes easy to see where you need to purl and knit and what stitches form the cable.

The back of the cables are ALWAYS purl stitches and the stitch on either side of them is ALWAYS a knit.

The stitch at the beginning of each row is slipped off and not knitted. This gives the edges of the scarf less stretch and lets the scarf hold it’s edge through wear and washings.

The easiest way to make any cable pattern is to see the pattern as panels versus individual rows. Unfortunately, there’s no other way to write a knitting pattern other than rows. If you see the scarfs pattern as the knitted edge, the moss stitch panel (the K1 P1 portions), the cable, moss stitch panel, another cable, moss stitch panel, knitted edge, it becomes very easy to do.

One of the best tip I can give is to let you know how much I appreciate every ounce of support I receive for my work. If you like to help out financially, that’s great! If you’re not comfortable with that, every like, share and follow helps he out immensely and greatly appreciated. πŸ₯°

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

sts – stitches

C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C2B β€“ Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

Sl st – Slip 1 stitch off

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How to Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves

Knitted fingerless mitts knitting pattern

Make yourself a nifty pair of flip mitts. They’re hip, trendy and handier than a pocket on a shirt! Not only can you make these super awesome mitts for just about anyone from teen to adult, but you can forgo the finger portion and make some cool fingerless gloves. Technically, they’re fingerless mittens but that just sounds weird.

They’re knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. You’ll need to know how to knit to make this project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.

Knitted flip mitts

The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand, medium is an average lady’s hand, large is for an average man’s hand, and extra large will fit a very large man’s hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each. Keep scrolling to read how to make the finger flap. Sorry, this pattern is a bit of a mammoth 😏



If you would prefer, you can also download this pattern to any device such as a smartphone, computer or tablet. The PDF of this pattern is available on my website here: Knitted Flip Mitts and Fingerless Gloves.

Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media.

Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball ofΒ worsted weight yarnΒ will be more than enough)

SizeΒ 5 mm (US size 8) double pointed needlesΒ (or whatever size needles you need to get the correct gauge).

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastenerΒ (AKA – Velcro*)

Permanent glue

Gauge

18 stitches = 4 inches

24 rows = 4 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 28 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. K26.

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, K26.

Round 35 – 37: Knit

Round 38 – 42: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 12: Knit

Round 13: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 14: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. K30.

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, K30.

Round 38 – 40: Knit

Round 41 – 45: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 13: Knit

Round 14: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 15: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 37 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. K34.

Round 40: K1, pick up a st, K34.

Round 41 – 43: Knit

Round 44 – 49: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 20: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Extra Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 37-38: Knit

Round 39: K1, pick up a st, k15, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 40 – 41: Knit

Round 42: K1, place next 17 sts onto the stitch holder. K38.

Round 43: K1, pick up a st, K38.

Round 44 – 46: Knit

Round 47 – 52: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 17 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 17 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 22: Knit

Pull yarn through.

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Finger Flap

Instructions are written for small (medium, large, extra large)

Cast on 32 (36, 40, 44) loosely.

Round 1 – 6: K2 P2

Round 7 and on: Knit around until work measures 3 (3.5, 4, 4.5) inches from the cast on edge.

Next round: K1 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2 tog K2 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2 tog K2 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2 tog K2 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2 tog K2 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the thumb is along the edge of fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Graft Fingertips

The divided stitches will look something like this:

How to graft stitches knitting

With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.

Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.

🌺 Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.

Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. 🌺

Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 until there are no stitches left on either needle.

 Pull the yarn tight.

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the back of the mitten first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the finger flap back (off the fingers). Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.

How to Pick Up a Stitch

I use this method to increase a stitch or pick up a stitch because it doesn’t leave a hole in your work. It takes a little longer to do but worth the effort in the final piece.

Make the stitch in the yarn stretched between two stitches.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Pick the yarn up with the needle.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Transfer the stitch onto the opposite needle.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Knit this newly formed stitch. You may have to pull the yarn forward a bit to get your needle beneath the yarn.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

It automatically twists the stitch eliminating the hole.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb or finger flap, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.

Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.

Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be 😎

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How to Knit Ribbed Bootie Slippers for Adults

Knitted adult ribbed bootie slippers

I designed these knitted adult bootie slippers to be as easy to knit as possible. They are knit flat with no extra needles or special techniques required. If you know how to cast onpurlknit and cast off you will be more than capable of finishing these for yourself or someone else! If you’re not sure or need a little practice, clicking on any of the links above will show you how with a how-to knitting video demonstrating the technique πŸ˜‰ And if you’re looking to download the pattern to your computer, tablet or phone you can get that here – How to Knit Ribbed Adult Booties.

The pattern is written to fit feet from a ladies size 6 – 12 and a man’s 5 – 12. I’m still on the fence as whether to design these to fit children. The sizing involves a lot of math and knitting sample sizes and I’m really not too excited about taking on either of those tasks. Let me know if you want it for kids. If there’s enough of you out there, I’ll do it.

Knitted adult ribbed bootie slippers

If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons down there πŸ‘‡πŸΌ let you do it easily and helps me immensely 😁. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


Things You Need

Click any link below to get everything you need to make these slippers mailed right to your door.

Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles (or whatever size you need to get the correct gauge.)

Darning Needle to sew in ends

Yarn – any standard ball of 200+ yards (220 m) ofΒ worsted weight yarnΒ will do.


Gauge in stockinette (Be sure to check to obtain correct sizing!)

18 sts = 4 inches

26 rows = 4 inches

Sizes are written for women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

and for a men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Knitted Adult Ribbed Bootie Slippers Pattern

Heel Flap

Cast on 3

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: K, inc in next stitch, K (4 sts)

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Inc in first stitch, K2, inc in last stitch (6 sts)

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Inc in first stitch, K4, inc in last stitch (8 sts)

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Inc in first stitch, K6, inc in last stitch (10 sts)

Row 9: Knit

Row 10: Inc in first stitch, K8, inc in last stitch (12 sts)


Starting the Ankle and Foot

Row 11: K12. Cast on 23 (26, 26, 29). You now have 35 (38, 38, 41 sts total)

Row 12: Knit across. Cast on 23 (26, 26, 29). You now have 58 (64, 64, 70 sts)

Row 13: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 14: Knit

Row 15: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 16: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

*Row 17: Knit

Row 18: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 19: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 20: Knit

Row 21: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 22: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)*

Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 4, 5more times.

Please note: Repeat rows 17 and 18 for every size.


Decreasing for the Foot

Next row: Cast off K10 (12, 12, 14), P12 (13, 13, 14), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14). You now have 48 (52, 52, 56 sts total).

Next row: Cast off K10 (12, 12, 14). Knit remaining stitches. You now have 38 (40, 40, 42 sts total).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

βœͺ Next row: Knit

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: Knit

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).βœͺ

Repeat from βœͺ to βœͺ 3 more times for every size.

End of Toe

Next row: K2tog across. 19 (20, 20, 21 sts)

Next row: P7 (7, 7, 8) K6 P6 (7, 7, 7)

Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch for ladies’ size 6-7 and 12 or men’s size 5-6 and 11-12.

Break yarn and pull through.

Make another slipper to match.

Sew seams and work in ends.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.


Hints and Tips

When starting the slipper, leave a long length of yarn when casting on. You can use this length to sew up the back seam of the slipper and will give less ends to sew in when done.

Work in the ends and don’t just knot them off. The knots will rub on the wearer’s foot and make them decidedly uncomfortable.

When sewing the seams, be sure to yank on them a bit before working in the ends. You want as much yarn securing the seams so that the seam will stretch the length of the foot and the ankle.

When casting off for the ankle, be sure to do so loosely. It will allow the seam to stretch.

In case you’re not sure what part of the slipper you are making and how it goes together, I’ve added some pictures that will help.

Knitted Ribbed Adult Booties Slipper Pattern

How it goes together. Fold it in half and sew the seams for the toe and ankle.

Knitted Ribbed Adult Booties Slipper Pattern

Happy knitting!


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How to Knit Adult Bootie Slippers

Knitted Adult Bootie Slippers Pattern

I’ve been asked by a number of people to knit them slippers that are a little more snug. A surprising number of people like to sleep with slippers on and have a difficult time finding ones the don’t keep coming off. Now, I can’t guarantee that these will stay on your feet all night but with the extended cuff, these knitted adult bootie slippers will stay on much better than any of the other knitted slippers that I make. This particular knitted slipper design fits feet that are a woman’s size 6 – 11 and a man’s size 5 – 10. I was going to make them for larger and smaller sizes, but there was no demand for it πŸ˜•


This is also a great pattern to practice your knitting stitches. In particular, picking up stitches and working on double pointed needles, AKA working in the round. Double pointed needles seems very intimidating but really it’s the same as regular knitting needles; you just don’t flip your work back and forth. If you’ve never done it before, don’t worry! In the tutorial below I show every single step including how to pick up the stitches for the heel and cuff. Once you watch how it’s done you’ll wonder why you never did it before.


If you need a more detailed video that shows you each step from casting on to sewing in the ends, scroll to the bottom of the page. You can watch the video without leaving this page. You can also download the pattern here from the download section of my website – How to Knit Adult Booties.

Things you will need:

If you are having a tough time finding what you need to make these slippers, click any link below to have all your supplies devoured right to your door.

SizeΒ 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed knitting needlesΒ or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Set of four sizeΒ 5 mm (US size 8) double pointed needlesΒ or same size as the single pointed needles.

darning needle to sew up seams

 250 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).


Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Slippers are given for a woman’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11) or a man’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10).

Knitted Adult Bootie Slippers Pattern

Cast on 42 (42, 42) sts

Row 1: K3 *P2 K2* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. K14 *P2 K2* Repeat from *to* 1 more time. P2 K3.

Row 2: P3 *K2 P2* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. K12 *P2 K2* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. P3.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 26 (30, 34) rows total.

Next row: K2tog K1 *P2 K2* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. K14 *P2 K2* Repeat from *to* 1 more time. P2 K1 K2tog. (40 sts)

☺Next row: *P2 K2* Repeat from * to* 2 more times. P2 K12 *P2 K2* Repeat from * to* 2 more times. P2.

Next row: K2 *P2 K2* Repeat From *to* 2 more times. K14 *P2 K2* Repeat from *to* 1 more time. P2 K2. β˜Ί

Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for 20 (22, 24) rows total.

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Shape Toe:

Row 1: *K2tog P2tog* Repeat From *to* 2 more times. K2tog 8 times. *P2tog K2tog* Repeat from * to* 1 more time. P2tog K2tog. (20 sts)

Row 2: *P1 K1* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. P1 K6 *P1 K1* Repeat from *to* 2 more times. P1.

Row 3: K1 K2tog 4 times K1 K2tog 5 times. (11 sts)

Row 4: P4 K3 P4.

Break yarn and draw yarn through the stitches to form the toe.


Form Heel: 

Need a bit of extra help with the heel and cuff? Scroll to the top of the page for a shorter video demonstrating where and how to do it. 

With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts on one of your double pointed needles along the sole of the slipper. Work the stitches with another of your double pointed needles. 

Row 1-4: Knit across.

Row 5: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)

Row 6-7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 9-10: Knit across.

Row 11: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 12-13: Knit across.

Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 15-16: Knit across.

Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 18-19: Knit across.

Row 20: K2tog twice. (2 sts)

Row 21-22: Knit across.

Keeping the two stitches on your double pointed needle, pick up 36(36, 36) stitches to form the cuff. Pick up 17 stitches down one side, evenly spaced, along the length to where you knitted two together. Starting at where you knitted two together along the other edge, pick up another 17 stitches, evenly spaced. There will be 36 stitches total.

Row 1-10: *K2 P2* Repeat from *to* 7 more times. 8 times total for matching ribbed effect.

Row 11-13: Knit around.

Cast off loosely.

Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams and work in ends.

If you like the free videos and patterns, then please share my work on social media! Those handy little icons along the top of the page and embedded in this and all my patterns let you do it easily. It’s quick and easy for you and helps me immensely! πŸ₯° If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


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How to Knit Children’s Slippers – Free Knitting Pattern

How to Knit Children's Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Because it seemed wrong to not have the children’s version of this knitting pattern, I did all the math and here it is!  I’ve made the pattern fit children’s feet from a small size 5 up to a teen size 5. That means you can make a slipper to fit feet that measure 5 1/4″ to 9″ long. Anything larger than that can be made with my other free pattern entitled How to Knit a Pair of Adult Slippers. And just like that pattern, I’ve included links to all the knitting stitches you need to make the slippers. By clicking the links you’ll go to my YouTube channel and I will show you how to do the required stitch or technique. And as promised, the download for this pattern is available here – How to Knit Children’s Slippers.


Like the free videos and patterns? Then please share my work on social media! Those handy little icons above let you do it easily and help me so much. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you canΒ Help Support My Work and keep the site free for everyone.


A couple of quick notes before you get started…be sure to use the correct size when ending the toe. The number of stitches knitted together differ depending on the size. Be sure to find the one that is for the size of slipper you are making. Scroll down the page to find the size you need. The same holds true for forming the heel flap. Be sure you pick up the right number of stitches or the heel flap won’t be the right length.

Without further ado, let’s get knitting! And in case you need a little extra help, there’s a complete step-by-step instructional video at the bottom of this page. 

Things you will need:

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

200 gr ofΒ worsted weight yarnΒ (usually this is a lot less but better to have too much. I like to use Red Heart because of price, wearability, ease of maintenance, and it’s easy to find online and IRL).

Set of 2 size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew up seams and work in the ends


Gauge: 

12 rows stockinette  = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

How to Knit Children's Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

I’ve also provided a basic size guide for the slippers.

Child shoe size         Foot length

5-6                                5 1/4”

7-8                                6”

9-10                              6 9/16”

11-12                            7 1/4”

13-1                              8”

2-3                                8 9/16”

4-5                                9”

Sizes are listed for children’s sizes as follows:

5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3, 4-5)

Cast on 23 (23, 28, 28, 33, 33, 36)

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Knit 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) P1 Knit 7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 12) P1 Knit 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11). Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 22 (24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34) rows TOTAL.

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Shape toe:

Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from *2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) more times K9 (K9, K10, K10, K11, K11, K14) *(P1 K1) Repeat from *2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) more times. P1 {This is K1 P1 Ribbing.}

Next Row: With wrong side facing you *(K1 P1) Repeat from *3(3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times K7 (K7, K8, K8, K9, K9, K12) *(P1 K1) Repeat from *3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times.

Repeat these 2 rows for 12 (12, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20) more rows. 14 (14, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22) rows ribbed TOTAL.

End toe for size 5-6 and 7-8

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 11 times. K1. (12 stitches remaining)

Next Row: P5 K3 P4

Next Row: K2tog 6 times. (6 stitches. remaining)

Next Row: P3 K1 P2

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.

End toe for sizes 9-10, and 11-12

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. K1. K2tog 6 times. K1. (15 stitches remaining)

Next Row: P6 K4 P5

Next Row: K2tog 7 times K1. (8 stitches remaining)

Next Row: P4 K2 P2

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.

End toe for size 13-1 and 2-3

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 16 times. K1. (17 stitches remaining)

Next Row: P7 K4 P6

Next Row: K2tog 8 times K1. (9 stitches remaining)

Next Row: P4 K2 P3

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches)and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.

End toe for sizes 4-5

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 9 times. K1. K2tog 8 times K1. (19 stitches remaining)

Next Row: P7 K6 P6

Next Row: K2tog 9 times K1. (10 stitches remaining)

Next Row: P4 K3 P3

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches)and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.


To form back flap of heel:

For sizes 5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12

With right side of work facing you pick up 10 sts between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper.

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Knit across.

Row 3: K2tog K6 K2tog.

Row 4: Knit across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: K2tog K4 K2tog.

Row 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Knit across.

Row 9: K2tog K2 K2tog.

Row 10: Knit across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog 2 times

Row 13: Knit.

Row 14: Knit

Bind off

Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another slipper to match.

Heel flap for slippers size 13-1, 2-3, 4-5

With right side of work facing you pick up 12 sts between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Knit across.

Row 3: K2tog K8 K2tog.

Row 4: Knit across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: K2tog K6 K2tog.

Row 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Knit across.

Row 9: K2tog K4 K2tog.

Row 10: Knit across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog.

Row 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Knit across.

Row 15: K2tog 2 times.

Row 16: Knit across.

Row 17: Knit across.

Bind off.

Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another slipper to match. Or take a break and go do something else that’s awesome! 😁


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How to Knit Adult Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

How to knit adult slippers

I’ve decided to share one of my most favourite things to knit…slippers just like my mom used to make. I’ve given the pattern so anyone can create them for adults from a woman’s size 7-12 or a man’s 6-11. This is by far my most popular pattern I have ever written and has been dowloaded and viewed thousands of times through various online channels. 

If you’re not a fan of being online, you can also download the PDF version of the pattern directly from the download section of this website – How to Knit Adult Slippers. Once there, it’s a straight forward process. You need to register to be able to access downloads.

How to Knit Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

As my latest addition, I’ve also converted this pattern to children’s sizes. You can use this link to see my FREE children’s knitted slippers pattern. Both of these patterns are great to practice if you are a new knitter. Make sure you maintain the correct gauge! The sizing for the slippers is based on it. If you match your gauge to mine then the sizing should work out correctly.

I’ve also added all of the the videos for the necessary knitting stitches you’ll need to make these slippers.You can watch them right on this site by clicking this link –  Basic Knitting Stitches. I’ve also embedded the complete step-by-step video showing how to make these. Scroll down or click here to the end of the page to watch it right here. FYI – all the links on this page open in a new page so you won’t lose this one.


I’ve also added links to the specific stitches that you need within the pattern itself.  For example, if you forget how to gather stitches to form the toe, there’s a link right there to go to the video.


If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons above let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

Don’t think you can make these yourself?  Or maybe you would like some examples.  Either way you can check them out in my online shop

Things you will need:

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

200 gr ofΒ worsted weight yarnΒ (this is an estimate. One large ball from any retailer will do.)

Set of 2 size 5 (US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew the seams.

Gauge:

12 rows stockinette  = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Slippers are given for a woman’s size 7-8 (9-10, 11-12) or a man’s sizes 6-7 (8-9, 10-11). The foot lengths of a man’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a woman’s size 7-8 and so on.

Cast on 40 sts

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: K13 P1 K12 P1 K13

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 36 (42, 48) more times.

Shape toe:

Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K14  *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 5 more times. P1 {This is K1 P1 Ribbing.}

Next Row:  With wrong side facing you *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K12 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.

Repeat these 2 rows for 22 (26, 30) more rows. 24 (28, 32) rows ribbed TOTAL.

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 12 times.  K1. K2tog 7 times P1.  21 stitches remaining.

Next Row: P8 K6 P7

Next Row: K2tog 10 times. K1. 11 stitches.

Next Row: P5 K3 P3.

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe.  Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.


To form back flap of heel:

With right side of work facing you pick up 14 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper. A lot of people have messaged me over the years not knowing how to do this. I made a video! It’s actually for another pattern but is exactly the same as this. Here’s the link to the video – Picking up Stitches for the Heel 

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Knit across.

Row 3: K2tog K10 K2tog.  12 stitches

Row 4: Knit across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: K2tog K8 K2tog. 10 stitches.

Row 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Knit across.

Row 9: K2tog K6 K2tog.  8 stitches

Row 10: Knit across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K4 K2tog. 6 stitches.

Row 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Knit across.

Row 15: K2tog K2 K2tog.  4 stitches

Row 16: Knit across.

Row 17: Knit across.

Row 18: K2tog twice. 2 stitches.

Row 19: Knit across.

Bind off

Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern.  You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form, physical or digital, unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.  If you would like to link back, that always awesome and feel free to do so.  Happy knitting!!


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Knitting for Beginners – How to Knit a Dishcloth

Lacey Dishcloth

If you wanted to learn how to knit, this is the perfect project! Using only 3 basic stitches and including a complete step-by-step video embedded on the bottom of this page, you can make a beautiful lace like dishcloth. If you’d prefer to download the pattern so you can take it wherever you go, the download is available on this website – Dishcloth Pattern

And here’s a bit more info for you. Not only can you use the pattern create a dishcloth, but if you add more rows, you can easily use the same pattern to make a scarf!


The pattern itself is very short, repetitive and easy to follow. Exactly what a newbie knitter needs to get his or her knit on! For more the seasoned knitter, this pattern doesn’t require a gauge as it’s a dishcloth and sizing isn’t important. Also, if you want to make a larger dishcloth, increase the number of initial stitches cast on and increase the number of repeated rows to make it square.

free Knitting Pattern - Lacey Dishcloth

Like the free videos and patterns? Then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the top and embedded in this and all my patterns let you do it easily. And it helps me so much! If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


Things you need:

Size 3 US (3 or 3.25 mm)Β knitting needles

1 3/4 oz (50g) ball ofΒ 100% cottonΒ worsted weight yarn

Size 8 US (5 mm) crochet hookΒ – this is optional

Large sewing needle


Cast on 35 sts

Row 1 – 5: Knit across

* Row 6: Lace knit stitch across.

To make this stitch, simply wrap the yarn twice around the knitting needle and work as any knit stitch. (Watch the how-to for this stitch at the bottom of this post.)

Row 7 – 11: Knit across.* Repeat from * to * more times. There will be 9 lace rows.

Cast off

If you want to make a scarf simply repeat from * to * as many times as you like until you knit the length you want.

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You can stop here if you choose to not crochet the edge. If you prefer a more finished edge for your dishcloth, single crochet evenly around the edge. Make 2 sc in each set of 5 rows, 1 sc in the lace knit row, 3 sc in each corner, and 1 sc in each knitted stitch along the cast on edge and the cast off edge.


That’s it! Like I said before, this is a very repetitive pattern that enables the newbie knitter to master a few basic stitches while still making something they can be proud of. A more experienced knitter can make these in a few hours or less and great to whip up if you want to give them as a gift, sell them online or at a local market, or even if you need a dishcloth for yourself. An let’s be honest, can you ever have too many dishcloths? Or is that just me…


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Knitted Adult Slippers with a Plaid Pattern

Free Knitting Pattern Slippers with a Plaid Pattern

A great knitting pattern for beginners and experts alike! The stitches and techniques used to make these simple looking slippers are very basic. As long as you can cast on, knit, purl, and the like, you’ll be able to make these with no problems whatsoever. If you’re a more experienced knitter, you’ll be able to whip up a pair in no time!

This adult slipper pattern makes women’s sizes 6-13 and men’s sizes 7-12. That should cover the majority of feet out there.

If you would prefer to download this adult’s knitted slipper pattern and take it with you wherever you go, you can do that here – Knitted Adult Slippers – Plaid Pattern. Once downloaded, you can read it on any device be it your phone, tablet, laptop or computer.


Things you will need:

200 gr ofΒ worsted weight yarnΒ (this is an estimate. One large ball from any retailer will do.)

Set of 2Β size 4mm (US size 6) knitting needlesΒ or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to dew the seams.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

in Stockinette 

4” = 20 sts

4” = 30 rows 

Knitting pattern plaid slippers

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Heel Flap

Cast on 2 sts

Row 1-3: Knit across.

Row 4: K2 in each st (You now have 4 sts).

Row 5-7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (6 sts)

Row 9-11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (8 sts)

Row13 -15: Knit across.

Row 16: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (10 sts)

Row 17-19: Knit across.

Row 20: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (12 sts)

Row 21-23: Knit across.

Row 24: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (14 sts)

Row 25-27: Knit across.

Row 28: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (16 sts)

Row 29-30: Knit across.

Forming the Foot

Row 31: Knit across. Cast on 15 sts. (31 sts)

Row 32: K4 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K1 K14 K1 Cast on 15 (46 sts)

Row 33: K4 K1 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K1 K4

Row 34: K4 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K1 K14 K1 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K4

Row 35: Repeat row 33.

Row 36: K4 P1 P2 K3 P2 K3 K1 K14 K1 K3 P2 K3 P2 P1 K4

Row 37: K4 K1 K2 P3 K2 P3 P1 K14 P1 P3 K2 P3 K2 K1 K4

Row 38: Repeat row 36

Row 39: Repeat row 37

* Row 40: K4 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K1 K14 K1 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K4

Row 41: K4 K1 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K1 K4

Row 42: Repeat row 40

Row 43: Repeat row 41

Row 44: K4 P1 P2 K3 P2 K3 K1 K14 K1 K3 P2 K3 P2 P1 K4

Row 45: K4 K1 K2 P3 K2 P3 P1 K14 P1 P3 K2 P3 K2 K1 K4

Row 46: Repeat row 44

Row 47: Repeat row 45 *

Repeat from * to * 2 (2,3, 3) more times.

Shaping Toe

Next row: K2tog K2 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K1 K14 K1 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K2 K2tog (44 sts)

Next row: K3 K1 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K1 K3

Next row: K2tog K1 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K1 K14 K1 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K1 K2tog (42 sts)

Next row: K2 K1 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K1 K2

❀ Next row: K2 P1 P2 K3 P2 K3 K1 K14 K1 K3 P2 K3 P2 P1 K2

❀ Next row: K2 K1 K2 P3 K2 P3 P1 K14 P1 P3 K2 P3 K2 K1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❀

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❀

βœͺ ✬ Next row: K2 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K1 K14 K1 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K2

❈ Next row: K2 K1 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with ✬

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❈

❀ Next row: K2 P1 P2 K3 P2 K3 K1 K14 K1 K3 P2 K3 P2 P1 K2

❀ Next row: K2 K1 K2 P3 K2 P3 P1 K14 P1 P3 K2 P3 K2 K1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❀

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❀ βœͺ

Repeat from βœͺ to βœͺ once.

End Toe

For women’s size 8-9 and 12-13 ONLY

and men’s sizes 7-8 and 11-12 ONLY

Do not knit the following 4 rows for the other sizes!

Next row: Knit across.

☺ Next row: K13 P1 K14 P1 K13

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row marked with☺

Knit the following rows for ALL sizes.

Next row: K2tog Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (40 sts)

Next row: K12 P1 K14 P1 K12

Next row: K2tog Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (38 sts)

Next row: K11 P1 K14 P1 K11

Next row: K2tog across.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog across. K last st.

Next row: Knit across.

Draw yarn through loops.

Make another slipper to match. Sew the seams and work in the ends.

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Hints and Tips

I’ve written the pattern to divide the rows up into sections of the slipper. You’ll see where certain stitches line up to form a crease (between the cuff and side of the slipper) and definitive lines that demarcate the sole of the slipper. I debated whether to write it as a more traditional pattern with running all the same stitches together (ie. K7 instead of K4 K1 K2) but felt it would be easier for a less experienced knitter to see what stitches were forming the different parts of the pattern.

A good way to think of the pattern is in groups (hence the spacing). How I thought of it when designing these slippers was 4 rows formed bottom half of the plaid pattern. The other 4 rows form the top half of the plaid pattern. The 8 rows together formed one repeat. Not sure if that helped anyone but it made it very easy for me to figure out where to put in the repeat marks.

If your K2tog for the second to last row is off, no worries. If there’s 2 stitches, knit them together. It’s not a big deal and it won’t make a noticeable difference.

If you need a larger size slipper than what I’ve written for, you can add more knitting rows onto the end of the toe. If your gauge is correct, 4 rows of knitting will add approximately 1/2” or 1.75cm.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at here – contact me.

To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work! A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely πŸ₯°

Copyright 2019

Janis Frank

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How to Crochet – Fans Bracelet Pattern

I do loves me a good crocheted bracelet πŸ₯° Don’t ask me why…

This is a fairly simple bracelet to make and doesn’t involve any complicated or unusual stitches. If you have successfully completed other crocheted projects, this should be easy for you to make. 


If you are looking to make some extra cash and sell these, which I’m always cool with btw, the cost to make these is next to nothing. You can purchase crochet cotton thread for very reasonable costs, and reuse buttons you’ve collected, found at second hand stores, or even for cheap at many big box stores.

If you’d prefer to download this pattern instead of reading it online, you can get it here Crocheted Fans Bracelet. If you like crocheted jewelry as much as I do, I have a number of other jewelry patterns, free and for sale, available.

If you are enjoying the free patterns and would like to see more, then please share my work social media! Those handy little icons down there πŸ‘‡πŸΌ you do it easily and help me so much 😊. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


Things you need:

1 ball of crochet cotton thread (Main colour)

1 ball complimentary colour of crochet cotton thread (accent colour or whatever you’d like the edging to be).

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook.

A pretty button


Gauge:

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. This pattern can be made as long as you like and you can easily adjust the length to what you want when you’re making it. Each fan adds approximately 3/16″ or 0.5 cm. Generally speaking, I make my bracelets approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length making 27 fans total

The 2 additional rounds added make it about 1/2 inch longer, so if you need a specific length keep that in mind. Another point to remember, is it will stretch a bit longer as the stitches relax over time or if you press it with an iron.

Chain 4.

Row 1: With main colour of thread, 2dc in 1st ch. Ch2, 3dc in 1st ch of original ch 4 again. Ch3. Turn.

Row 2: 3dc in ch2 space of previous row. Ch2. 3Dc in ch2 space. Tc in the top of the ch3 of previous round. Ch3. Turn.

Repeat row 2 until work measures the desired length. Break thread.

Round 1: You’ll now be working in rounds going around the bracelet. With the start of the bracelet on your right and the last fan you made on your left and with the complimentary colour of thread, join with a sl st in any ch3 or tc space (counts as a dc). Ch2, dc in same space. *Dc in the top of the ch3 or tr of the fan (see photo A). 2 dc in next ch3 or tc space.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet ending with the 2 dc in the space ch3 or tc space. Dc in the top of each dc of fan. 5dc in the ch2 space of fan. Dc in the top of each dc. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Make 3 dc along the length of the dc or ch3 of the original fan (see photo B). 5Dc in the ch1 in the base of the original fan. Make 3 dc along the length of the dc or ch3 of the original fan. Repeat from * to * until at the beginning ch2 of this round. Join with sl st to the top of the 2nd chain. Break thread.

Photo A:

DC in these stitches

Photo B:

Work 3 dc here

Round 2: Start with the first fan on your right and the last fan you made on your left. With the main colour of thread, and working in the back loop of each dc, join thread in back loop of any dc of previous round along the length. Ch1, sc in same st as join. Sc in each dc down the length to the 1st dc of the 5dc of the previous round. 2sc in the first dc of the 5 dc, sc in the next dc. Sc in the 3rd dc, ch10 (or how many you need to go around your button), sl st in the sc you just made. Sc in the 3rd dc again. Sc in the next dc. 2sc in the next dc. Sc in each dc down the length of the bracelet to the 1st dc of the 5dc of the previous round. 2sc in the 1st dc of the 5dc, sc in the next st. 3sc in the middle dc of the 5dc. Sc in the next st. 2sc in the next st. Sc in each dc until reaching the 1st sc of round. Join with sl st to first sc. Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite the loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

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Hints and Tips:

No matter what, don’t stretch out the fan portion before you are finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making the bracelet. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches. Position the joins so there aren’t too many ends in one area.

You can use 1 to 3 colours to make this bracelet. I’ve included an example above with 3 colours. One colour works particularly well to highlight a button.

When making the loop to secure the bracelet, chain as many stitches as you think you may need. Sl st to the sc and pass the button through the loop. If it is too small, undo the sl st and add more chains. If too long, undo the sl st and take some stitches out. It’s easier to check now than later.


Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

tc – treble (or triple) crochet

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.

If you love this pattern, be sure to check out my other bracelet patterns: Crocheted Waves Bracelet.

Like all my patterns, you are allowed to sell or give away any of the bracelets that you make, but you are not permitted to redistribute this pattern in any way.

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