Learn how to knit cozy ribbed adult booties with this free slipper knitting pattern! This easy knitting project is perfect for beginners who know the basics. If you can knit, purl, cast on, and cast off, you can make these warm and stretchy slippers in no time.
These handmade booties are soft, comfortable, and great for lounging around the house. The ribbed design helps them fit snugly and keeps your feet toasty all year long.
If you’re just learning how to knit, don’t worry—there are full video tutorials that walk you through each stitch including how to do the knit stitch, purl stitch, k2tog, INC, cast on and cast off. It’s an ideal beginner knitting pattern for anyone who wants to make practical, cozy slippers that actually get worn.
If you need help with the stitches scroll down to the Videos section for the quick and easy to follow how-to videos.
And if you’re looking for an ad free pattern you can download to your computer, tablet or phone you can get that here – How to Knit Ribbed Adult Booties or my Etsy shop or Ravelry for a small fee.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
The pattern is written to fit feet from a ladies size 6 – 12 and a man’s 5 – 12. I’m still on the fence as whether to design these to fit children. The sizing involves a lot of math and knitting sample sizes and I’m really not too excited about taking on either of those tasks. Let me know if you want it for kids. If there’s enough of you out there, I’ll do it.
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Things You Need
Click any link below to get everything you need to make these slippers mailed right to your door.
Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles (or whatever size you need to get the correct gauge.)
Darning Needle to sew in ends
Yarn – any standard ball of 200+ yards (220 m) of worsted weight yarn will do.
Gauge
Gauge is in stockinette (Be sure to check to obtain correct sizing!)
18 sts = 4 inches
26 rows = 4 inches
Sizes are written for women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
and for a men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
Heel Flap
Cast on 3
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: K, inc in next stitch, K (4 sts)
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: Inc in first stitch, K2, inc in last stitch (6 sts)
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Inc in first stitch, K4, inc in last stitch (8 sts)
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: Inc in first stitch, K6, inc in last stitch (10 sts)
Row 9: Knit
Row 10: Inc in first stitch, K8, inc in last stitch (12 sts)
Starting the Ankle and Foot
Row 11: K12. Cast on 23 (26, 26, 29). You now have 35 (38, 38, 41 sts total)
Row 12: Knit across. Cast on 23 (26, 26, 29). You now have 58 (64, 64, 70 sts)
Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch for ladies’ size 6-7 and 12 or men’s size 5-6 and 11-12.
Break yarn and pull through or gather stitches.
Make another slipper to match.
Sew seams and work in ends.
Abbreviations
st – stitch
sts – stitches
K – knit
P – purl
INC – increase in the next stitch. Knit in the front and back of one stitch.
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
Videos
I’ve included the video showing how to do every stitch for this pattern. Simply click and the video will play. Please note that some of these are the first videos I ever made but they still work to show you how to knit. I have redone some of them but not all.
Hints and Tips
When starting the slipper, leave a long length of yarn when casting on. You can use this length to sew up the back seam of the slipper and will give less ends to sew in when done.
Work in the ends and don’t just knot them off. The knots will rub on the wearer’s foot and make them decidedly uncomfortable.
When sewing the seams, be sure to yank on them a bit before working in the ends. You want as much yarn securing the seams so that the seam will stretch the length of the foot and the ankle.
When casting off for the ankle, be sure to do so loosely. It will allow the seam to stretch.
In case you’re not sure what part of the slipper you are making and how it goes together, I’ve added some pictures that will help.
How it goes together. Fold it in half and sew the seams for the toe and ankle.
There has been a bit of confusion on how to sew the seams along the back of the slippers, so I knit another pair and took a few photos to show what the back of the slipper should look like.
Below are two photos showing how to flip up the heel flap triangle and fit it into the back of the slipper. Sew the back seam down to where the top of the heel flap triangle reaches without stretching it. Sew each side of the triangle to the remaining rows along each side as shown.
Creepy? No. Awesome? YES! Knit a pair of fingerless gloves with a spider motif on the back of the hand. Guaranteed to never fall off, the 3D spider is created as you make the mitten.
This isn’t a pattern for beginners. You’ll need to think out of the box a bit for this one; making bobbles and working selectively over given stitches to create the body and head. But the basic glove portion is the same as every other glove with a thumb increase you’ve made, just like mySuper Simple Fingerless Gloves only done with a purl stitch to make the spider stand out even more.
This pattern has been in the works for a number of years now. It originally started as a knit in the round design, but because of the extensive purling, there were always lines left where the needles met. I couldn’t live with that.
So, there was a change in plans from the initial design. First change; it’s knit flat on 2 needles. The second is that instead of including a bunch of how-to pictures, and there were going to be a lot, I decided it was time to utilize links to how-to videos. Everything that may be challenging, particularly rows 25 – 27 can be a little confusing. I made videos that show the trickier parts of these rows. To watch the video, click the link provided. The video opens a new page on the website and you can watch the embedded YouTube video here.
Too much blib blab for you? Want to just print the damn pattern already? You have some options available to you.
Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit a Pair of Spider Fingerless Gloves – now with VIDEOS! You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. And the paperback version is also available on Amazon! It’s available to order in most countries. Be sure to make your purchase in the country you love so you can get free shipping with your Amazon Prime membership.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
It is very easy to have the wrong number of stitches created around the spider. This can happen between the gusset for the thumb and the spider, or for the shorter side. If that happens you can take it apart. The other option is to just go with it. Being a stitch or two off won’t be noticable to the wearer.
If you decide to “just go for it”, line up the stitches done to create the spider to previous spider stitches. In general, this is just the legs. They are very obvious. Keep in mind that you always knit the legs on the right side and purl the legs on the wrong side. Adjust the background of the mitt with your incorrect count of purl stitches on the right side and the knit stitches on the wrong side.
For example, if you’re making Row 30, instead of K7 at the start of the row you made a mistake and now have K8. Knit the 8 stitches instead and start the rest of the pattern from there.
Example row:
Row 30: K7 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K6 M1 K11 M1 K12
Abbreviations
If you need help with the less common stitches in the abbreviations list below, all are included in this playlist below. Specific videos for rows 25-27 are included in this list and also embedded below each row for the Left Hand glove.
K – Knit
P – Purl
st – stitch
sts – stitches
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
P3tog – Purl 3 stitches together
P2tog – Purl 2 stitches together
K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
K3tog – Knit 3 stitches together
C1B – Cable 1 back. Pick up next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the BACK of your work. Knit the next stitch. Purl the stitch on the cable needle. Watch this video on Cable 1 Back to see how.
C1F – Cable 1 forward. Pick up the next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the FRONT of your work. Purl the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. Watch this video on Cable 1 Forward to see how.
FB2 – Knit in the front and back of the next stitch. This is also known as an increase one in the next stitch. I’m labeling it as this because it is very easy to make a mistake here and pick up an extra stitch. This way I know I have your attention and made you look ? No need to thank me..or complain. Both seem to be a likely response tbh.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)
Knitting needles – described below in sizing and gauge
Cable Needle
Stitch Holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends
Sizing & Gauge
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the spider consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off. Most knitting is tbh.
Row 25: P28 K2tog, Bobble 6 (K6 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the one stitch, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K2tog 3 times (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle.) K2tog. P8 (39 sts) Click here for the video how-to link – Row 26 Video Tutorial
Row 26: K8 PM1 P3tog PM1 K28 (39 sts) Click here for the video how-to link:Row 26 – Video Tutorial
Row 27: P12 PM1 P9 PM1 P7 FB2 (This is a simple increase knit-wise in the next stitch. These are the start of the front legs). Bobble 5 (K5 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 5 stitches in the one stitch, P5, turn, K5, turn, P2tog P1 P2tog, turn, K3 (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle) FB2 (AKA Increase in the next stitch. Makes the other front legs). P8. (43 sts) Click here for the video how-to link: Row 27 – Video Tutorial
Row 28: K8 P2 K1 P2 K30 (43 sts)
Row 29: P29 C1B K1 P1 K1 C1F P7 (43 sts)
Row 30: K7 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K6 M1 K11 M1 K12 (45 sts)
Row 31: P30 C1B twice P1 C1F twice P6 (45 sts)
Row 32: K6 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K30 (45 sts)
Row 33: P12. Pass the next 13 stitches to a stitch holder. P7 K1 P3 K1 P8 (32 sts)
Row 34: K8 P1 K3 P1 K19 (32 sts)
Row 35: P across
Row 36: K across
Row 37: P across
Row 38: K across
Row 39 – 42: K1 P1 across
Cast off loosely.
Making the Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder. Transfer them onto the other needle so you start knitting with the WRONGside facing you. If you don’t transfer them onto the other needle you’ll get a line.
Row 25: P8 K2tog, Bobble 6 (K6 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the one stitch, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K2tog 3 times (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle.) K2tog. P28 (39 sts)
Row 26: K28 PM1 P3tog PM1 K8 (39 sts)
Row 27: P8 FB2 (This is a simple increase knit-wise in the next stitch. These are the start of the front legs). Bobble 5 (K5 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 5 stitches in the one stitch, P5, turn, K5, turn, P2tog P1 P2tog, turn, K3 (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (There is now 1 stitch on your needle.) FB2 (AKA Increase in the next stitch. Makes the other front legs). P7 PM1 P9 PM1 P12. (43 sts)
Row 28: K30 P2 K1 P2 K8 (43 sts)
Row 29: P7 C1B K1 P1 K1 C1F P29 (43 sts)
Row 30: K12 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 *K1 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K7 (45 sts)
Row 31: P6 C1B twice P1 C1F twice P30 (45 sts)
Row 32: K30 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K6 (45 sts)
Row 33: P8 K1 P3 K1 P7 Pass the next 13 stitches to a stitch holder P12 (32 sts)
Row 34: K19 P1 K3 P1 K8 (32 sts)
Row 35: P across
Row 36: K across
Row 37: P across
Row 38: K across
Row 39 – 42: K1 P1 across
Cast off loosely.
Making the Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder. Transfer them onto the other needle so you start knitting with the WRONGside facing you. If you don’t transfer them onto the other needle you’ll get a line.
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across
Row 3: K across
Cast off loosely.
Finishing
I recommend that you finish the body of the spider before sewing the seams along the edge. It’s easier to work it when flat. I like to make a figure 8 around the body, to the head, around the head and back to the start.
To give the spider body and head a more rounded feel, cut a length of yarn about 12” long. Insert your tapestry needle from the wrong side through the front between the head and the body. Pick up stitches around the edge of the body, back to the head. Pull snug until you are happy with the body shape
Pick up stitches around the head back to the body. Pull snug until you’re happy with the shape.
Pull the yarn to the back of your work. Tie off.
I like to tack the body at it’s base to the glove so it won’t flop around and stay in line with the head. Tie off.
No need to work in the ends when finishing the spider body and head. Simply pull the yarn through the body of the spider. Press the body down and cut the yarn. When the body pops back up, the end will be hidden in the body.
Once the spider finishing is complete, sew the seams along the edge and the thumb, working in the ends when finished to avoid lumps from knots.
Like all my patterns, you are welcome to you this pattern to sell, give away or keep any physical items that you make. All I ask is that you respect my work and don’t make copies of my work in any form.
If you feel the need to complain about not being able to print this pattern from this website page, may I suggest you read this post – Your Patterns Aren’t Free! If you still feel a need to vent in the comments, wtf is the matter with you? It’s bad enough I had to take the time to write the blog post because of your fellow entitled users, don’t be like that too. And reassess your life. Seriously.
Learn how to knit cozy Grandma-style slippers with this free beginner-friendly pattern and full step-by-step video tutorial.
This is actually one of the very first patterns I ever made, way back over 10 years ago! The original slippers worked fine, but I wanted to update them to make everything easier to follow, especially for beginners. Plus, I wanted the sizing and instructions to be a bit clearer so anyone can make a cozy pair.
Now the pattern covers more sizes, from small women’s feet all the way up to men’s size 14. Even if larger sizes aren’t requested as often, it’s nice to know everyone can get a snug, comfy fit.
I also changed the sole from stockinette to garter stitch. This gives the slippers a thicker, sturdier sole that wears better and adds a little grip; perfect for walking around the house without slipping. It really gives these slippers that classic, “Grandma-made” feel.
To make it even easier, I’ve made a full YouTube tutorial showing every step. From casting on and shaping the heel to making the cuff and sewing everything together, the video walks you through it all. Even if you’ve never knitted slippers before, you’ll be able to follow along and make your own cozy pair.
If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there 👆🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Repeat from ✬ to ✬ 13 (14,16, 17, 18) times more for a total of 28 (30, 34, 36, 38) rows.
Shape toe
❤︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, P1 ❂ K1 P1 ❂ Repeat from ❂ to ❂ 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) more times. K12 (14, 14, 16, 16) P1, ✿ K1 P1 ✿ Repeat from ✿ to ✿ 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) more times.
Next Row: ☻ K1 P1 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) more times. K10 (12, 12, 14, 14) ☀︎ P1 K1 ☀︎ Repeat from ☀︎ to ☀︎ 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) more times.❤︎
Repeat from ❤︎ to ❤︎ 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more times for a total of 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) rows for this section. You have a total of 48 (52, 58, 62, 66) rows from the cast on edge.
End Toe
Next Row: K2tog 10 times. K1 K2tog to the last st. P1.
Next Row: K1 P7 (7, 8, 8, 8). K 5(6, 6, 7, 7) P to the end of the row.
Next Row: K1 K2tog 5 times. K0 (1, 1, 0, 0) K2tog to the last st. P1.
Next Row: K1 P4 K2 (3, 4, 4, 4) P to the end of the row.
Draw through to pull the stitches together.
Heel and Cuff
If you need a little extra help with this part, the video will show you how to do it. You can either click this link – Making the Heel and Cuff. It starts at the correct spot in the video.
With the RIGHT side facing, pick up 12 (14, 14, 16, 16) stitches along the cast on edge
✦Next 2 Rows: K across.
Next Row: K2tog. K to last 2 sts. K2tog. ✦ Repeat from ✦ to ✦ until there are 4 sts on your needle.
Next Row: K2tog twice.
End with the yarn on the left side of the row when the right side of the slipper is facing you. You may need to knit one more row.
With the RIGHT side facing and your DPN’s, pick up 36 (38, 42, 44, 48) sts evenly around the edge of the slipper. You will now have 38 (40, 44, 46, 50) sts total.
Rounds 1-6: K1 P1 around.
Rounds 7-10: K around.
Cast off loosely.
Sew seams along the top of the foot and along the sides of the heel. Make another slipper to match.
Hints and Tips:
Be sure to cast your stitches off loosely when making the cuff. It needs to be able to stretch when going over the top of the foot and the heel. It’s the widest part the slipper has to pass over. The ribbing will snap it back to tighten up on its own.
When picking up stitches for the cuff, it doesn’t have to be the exact stitch count I give, but your final number of stitches on your needles MUST be an even number. Make sure your slippers have the same number of stitches around the cuff.
Make the cuff as long as you like with the K1 P1 ribbing. I made it 6 rows but you may want it longer, especially for the larger sizes.
When casting off for the heel, if you need an extra row to end it so the yarn ending on the left with the right side facing (if right you are handed), that’s ok. When knitting this part, I often lose track of how many rows I’ve knitted between the row with the decreases. I’ve never had a complaint yet.
Don’t feel that the cuff needs to be the same colour as the slipper itself. A nice change is to make the cuff in a complimentary colour, especially if you have used variegated yarn. You can also use this pattern to use up some of your left over wool by making the toe (ribbed section) a different colour also.
This is also a great pattern to use if you have a variegated or any other colour changing yarn. Because there isn’t any pattern created by the stitches, it allows to show off the colours really well.
The perfect knitting project for binge watching the latest series on Netflix and incidentally, how I developed this pattern. To Breaking Bad, if you must know. I’m sure Walter White would be proud. FYI this pattern was written back in 2015 so that reference was a lot more timely back then.
This free cable scarf knitting pattern includes a full step-by-step video tutorial and a printable PDF so you can download and knit along. It’s a cozy project that’s perfect for relaxing evenings or binge-watching your favourite show. The easy cable design looks impressive but is simple to make, even if you’re newer to knitting. You’ll learn how to knit cables, follow the pattern repeat, and finish a beautiful handmade scarf that makes a great gift or personal winter essential.
The pattern is easy to follow and repeats the same eight rows for the length of the scarf, which can be as long or as short as you like. If you have never knitted cables before, the pattern includes photos and instructions how to do it. By the time you’re finished this project, you’ll have mastered the art of the cable stitch, have a lovely scarf and hopefully have closure for all your favourite characters. Now in 2020, it’ll probably be something like Stranger Things.
If you need help with the pattern, you can view the complete how to from start to finish with my YouTube video: Knit a Cable Scarf (The video is embedded further along). If you know how to knit but need a little extra help with forming the cables, you can watch how to do the C2F, the C2B with my videos: C2F and C2B. Or if starting the cable pattern is giving you trouble, I have a video for that too: Starting the Cable Pattern. All the video links open to a new page so you won’t lose this one.
If you’re looking for more scarf/dishcloth designs I have a bunch of others you may be interested in. You can click any of the following links to check some of them out.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
To get the pattern, click the button to open a new browser window. You can save this document to your device. It varies depending on what device (phone, tablet, computer) and what operating system you are using.
You can come back to the page and download as many times as you like.
No log in or personal info is required to gain access to this pattern.
If you are having a tough time finding what you need, click any of the links below to get everything you need to make this scarf.
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (This could be more of less depending on how long you want your scarf).
Size 5 (US size 8) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.
Cable knitting needle
Tapestry Needle – for working in the ends
Gauge
12 rows stockinette = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″
If your gauge is off your scarf will be either narrower or wider, but it really isn’t overly important for this project.
Loving this free knitting pattern? Do you know someone who would love it as much as you? Please share it on your social media or email it to a friend.
And just so you know, this is one of the first videos I ever made. It is old. Try not to judge too harshly.
The Pattern
Cast on 40
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2-7: Sl st as if to knit. Knit across.
Row 8: Sl st as if to knit. K3 P32 K4.
Row 9: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 16 times. P1 K3.
Row 10: Sl st as if to knit. K3 (P1 K1) 16 times K4.
Repeat rows 9-10, 4 times more for an additional 8 rows.
🦊 Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K6 P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 K6 P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
🦋 Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K3 (P1 K1) 3 times. P6 K1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K1 P6 K1 (K1 P1) 2 times. K5.
🌸 Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times.C2F K2 P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 C2F K2 P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
Next row: Repeat row with 🦋
Next row: Repeat row with 🦊
Next row: Repeat row with 🦋
Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K2 C2B P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 K2 C2B P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
Next row: Repeat row with 🦋 (🐌 end with this row when scarf is the desired length.)
Next row: Repeat row with 🦊
Next row: Repeat row with 🦋 🌸
Repeat rows from 🌸 to 🌸. These 8 rows form the cable pattern. End the cable pattern with the row marked with 🐌.
Repeat until the scarf is the desired length, keeping in mind that the finished edge adds another 2 1/2 inches on to the length.
Next rows: Repeat rows 9-10 6 times for a total of 12 rows.
Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 K32 P1 K3.
Next rows: Repeat rows 2-7.
Cast off.
Hints and Tips
Be very careful to get the stitches right at the beginning when forming the cable pattern. Once the pattern become more set, it becomes easy to see where you need to purl and knit and what stitches form the cable.
The back of the cables are ALWAYS purl stitches and the stitch on either side of them is ALWAYS a knit.
The stitch at the beginning of each row is slipped off and not knitted. This gives the edges of the scarf less stretch and lets the scarf hold its edge through wear and washings. If you don’t want to and would prefer to just knit, that’s ok. Just be consistent whether you knit it or not.
The easiest way to make any cable pattern is to see the pattern as panels versus individual rows. Unfortunately, there’s no other way to write a knitting pattern other than rows. If you see the scarfs pattern as the knitted edge, the moss stitch panel (the K1 P1 portions), the cable, moss stitch panel, another cable, moss stitch panel, knitted edge, it becomes very easy to do.
I did end up making a dishcloth version of this pattern. Do I love it? No. Do I hate it? No. Would I make it again? No. To be square there isn’t many repeats of the cable. I did four. It looks ok. If I was to redo it, I’d use a smaller gauge needle for sure. I would also cast on with a smaller needle than what I was going to knit the rest of the scarf/dishcloth.
It ain’t so great…
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
sts – stitches
Sl st – Slip 1 stitch off
C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C2B – Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
Stay warm this winter with this free knitted ear warmer headband pattern! It’s double-thick, soft, and designed to cover your ears and forehead for extra warmth. This is a great first knitting project for beginners to learn the basics, and a fast, satisfying knit for experienced knitters.
The pattern is free to read online and includes a complete how-to video tutorial, showing you every step from cast on to bind off to sewing the seam. This cozy winter headband makes a thoughtful handmade gift or a simple cold-weather project an experienced knitter can make in an evening.
For now, I’m going to make just this PDF version available to my supporters on Buy Me a Coffee. I set a ridiculous price for purchase for non-members. For current, or future members, you can use this link – Cozy Double Thick Ear Warmer Headbandand download and print it now.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy the free patterns, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!
Once you’ve mastered all the stitches, you can easily move on to some other projects. Both my Easiest Beanie Winter Hat and Super Simple Fingerless Gloves use the same stitches and both have complete how-to videos to show you how to make them. You can either click the links or the photo below to see the videos and patterns.
Tapestry needles – to sew the seam and work in ends
Gauge
In stockinette
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
I’ve included this handy chart showing how many stitches you need to cast on for every head size.
Watch the Video
Watch the full how-to video to make this pattern. All sections are divided by title cards to make it easy to find the help you need by scrolling through the video.
Pattern
Cast on according to chart
Row 1: Knit across for (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15) rows.
Next row: P across
Next row: K1 * P2 K1 * Repeat from * to * to end of the row.
♫ Next row: P1 ♥ K2 P1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ to the end of the row.
Next row: K1 * P2 K1 * Repeat from * to * to end of the row. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ (16, 16, 20, 20, 20, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 28) more times for a total of (19, 19, 23, 23, 23, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 31) rows for the ribbed section.
Next row: With the RIGHT side of the ribbing facing you. P across.
Next row: Knit across for (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15) rows.
Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
When sewing the seams, please watch the video! You want the seam to be a slim as it can be. Anything bulky will rub on the head and be annoying after a while.
Make sure you STRETCH the seam along the length as you sew! This will be be the limit of the stretch of the final piece. If you sew the seam tight, there won’t be enough stretch to fit around the head.
The measurements for child ages are based on UN head size standards and are approximate common measurements for heads throughout the world. If you know the measurement of the head, use that instead of what I’ve given.
I’ve designed this pattern to fit nearly everyone. I didn’t go any younger because it’s my experience that babies rarely keep anything on their heads, let alone any headbands. They’re cute but completely impractical.
I have not done this, but if you want to make the head bands windproof, no knitting ever is, you can try putting felt, or another windproof material between the ribbing and garter stitch sections when you sew it up. You can either make it one long piece, taking into account the extra material to accommodate the stretch, or patches to go over the ear only. I’ve thought about whether to tack it in place for the ears, or just let it float around in there once you sandwich it together. I’m not sure which method would work better. Let me know if you try this.
Even if your headband doesn’t turn out perfectly and this is your first knitting project, don’t be discouraged! Keep going. You can still be proud of what you made and it still usable.
As the crisp autumn air rolls in and the scent of pumpkin spice fills the air, there’s no better time to crochet a fun and festive beanie to keep you warm. This pumpkin beanie (or toque) is the perfect project to get into the fall spirit. Whether you’re heading out for a pumpkin patch adventure or just cozying up with your favourite latte, this hat is sure to become your go-to accessory for chilly weather.
The design features a whimsical green stem at the top, capturing the playful essence of the season. You can also take it a step further by adding optional felt embellishments like a cute nose, eyes, and mouth to give your beanie a jack-o’-lantern twist. With the freedom to personalize it, you can wear a pumpkin on your head that matches your style and personality!
Don’t worry if you’re newer to the art of crochet—this pattern is easy to follow and comes with plenty of helpful photos along the way. Whether you’re making it for yourself, a friend, or as a gift for a pumpkin-loving family member, this project is as enjoyable to make as it is to wear. Grab your hook, settle in with a cozy blanket, and let’s make something magical for the autumn season!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Happy Crocheting!
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn. Green for the stem and orange for the pumpkin. An equivalent amount of the 2 colours to one standard ball (278 yards or 255 m) will do
Size 5 mm (H or size 8) crochet hook
Tapestry needle so work in ends
Black felt for face (optional)
Gauge
In single crochet
17 sts = 4 inches or 10 cm
16 rows = 4 inches or 10 cm
The Pattern
To achieve the ribbing effect, all stitches are made in the BACK loop only!
With GREEN Ch 20. Switch to ORANGE and Ch 36. (56 ch total). Turn. In second ch from hook, start row 1:
Row 1: With ORANGE 35 SC. In the 35th st pull up a loop as you regularly would. Pull the ORANGE yarn forward and switch to GREEN. Complete the SC as normal. 20 SC in remaining chains. Ch 1. Turn.
Row 2: With GREEN20 SC. In the 20th st pull up a loop as you regularly would. Pull the GREEN yarn forward and switch to ORANGE. Complete the SC as normal. 35 SC in remaining sts. Ch 1. Turn.
* Row 3: With ORANGE 32 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
HDC over these sts. These are the orange sts. (Ignore the green sts. We don’t work them now.)
Pull up a loop in the back loop of each st
YO and draw through all 3 loops
Row 4: 33 SC, Ch 1. Turn.
Row 5: 27 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
Pull up loops in the back loop of these 2 sts. YO and draw through all 3 loops. Leave remaining 4 sts unworked.
Row 6: 28 SC, Ch 1. Turn.
Row 7: 22 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
Row 8: 23 SC, Ch 1.Turn.
Row 9: With ORANGE 35 SC (see photos below for extra help where to crochet the sts). In the 35th st pull up a loop as you regularly would. Pull the ORANGE yarn forward and switch to GREEN. Complete the SC as normal. 20 SC in remaining chains. Ch 1. Turn.
The followiong is extra help with this row:
To complete this row, you need to pick up the stitches that were decreased. Yours will be ORANGE.
Stitch made. Continue SC in the back loop.
What the joined sections looks like.
Row 10: With GREEN20 SC. In the 20th st pull up a loop as you regularly would. Pull the GREEN yarn forward and switch to ORANGE. Complete the SC as normal. 35 SC in remaining sts. Ch 1. Turn.
Row 11: As row 9
Row 12: As row 10 *
Repeat from * to * 7 more times (for a total of 8 sections). End with Row 9 (including the CH 1 and turn) when done the 8th section.
Bring up the starting edge towards you. The edge you just made is behind the starting edge.
Push your hook between the spaces of the sts on the starting edge AND through the back loop of the row you just finished. Sl st down the length of the beanie, switching from GREEN to ORANGE where the transition occurs.
Break yarn when done. Work in the ends. Turn the hat inside out when done the seam.
Abbreviations
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Hints and Tips
The hat is designed to fit adults with the ribbing allowing to fit from small to large. If you have someone with a very large head, I woulduse a larger size hook than what is written.
Form the green stem into a curve. The stitches are dense enough that you can reposition it any way you like.
If you’d like it to be for children, Make less ORANGE sts. The ORANGE chain sts are from the forehead to the crown, so if you know how long this measurement is, you should be able to make it work.
If you feel that the pumpkin needs a little more, you can always add felt cut outs for eyes, nose and a mouth. Cut out the shapes you like with paper first to get the right size and shape you want. Then transfer it onto the felt. If you can find self sticking felt, it’s even easier! And you can take them off and change it out from year to year.
The basic cut outs I used (not to size)
You can also add curly tendrils. Actual pumpkins don’t have this but it may look nice regardless. To do so, CH as many as you like and SC in each CH. It will automatically curl.
You can also add leaves. I do have a leaf pattern on my website. It’s not a pumpkin leaf, but could work. Here’s the link How to Crochet Leaves
The photos aren’t all from the pumpkin hat, there is a regular ribbed beanie/hat/toque pattern I did before this. The hat pattern is free on my website.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
I finally hit the threshold for another compilation of slipper knitting patterns. I try to have 7 or 8 of them to bundle together for people to use. This time it’s for a couple of different styles that I’ve been working with. I’m working with more sculptural elements and colour work making some of them a little more complicated than a basic slipper, though I do have those too. The Ultra Thick Bootie Slippers and Lace-Up Slippers are definitely that.
To help everyone with the trickier parts of making these slippers, I’ve added a ton of photos and lots of video links to my YouTube channel. You WILL be able to make these!
If you would like to order the paperback version from Amazon, you can use the links below. Be sure to select your country. If you are a Prime member on Amazon, then your shipping will be free!
If you are a paid member/supporter on Buy Me A Coffee then this publication is FREE for you! Just add it to your cart and check out. The price will automatically turn to zero. You won’t pay a cent. 😊
You can read more about this…
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
The patterns themselves are still all free to read on the website (the links are listed further down this post). You won’t be able to print them from the site. I’ve kept the cost for a printable PDF very low so it’s definitely within everyone’s budget. It’s less than a ball of yarn! You can purchase the PDF through my Etsy shop here – Eight Awesome Slipper to Knit or you can buy it right here in my shop – Eight Awesome Slippers to Knit
For those comfortable with reading patterns online, clicking any of the links below will take you right to it.
I’ve always avoided designing anything that required extra sewing because, truth be told, I really dislike it. But I realized that avoiding finishing work was limiting what I could create. And maybe, just maybe, not everyone abhors sewing as much as I do. Once I came to terms with that, it opened up a whole new world of possibilities.
I tried my darndest to come up with a one-piece design for these gloves—just like my reindeer, owl, spider, mushroom, and hippo fingerless gloves—but after an afternoon of experimenting, the wings never looked quite right. That’s when I decided to take a different approach.
The result is a pair of fingerless gloves with a beautiful butterfly on the back of the hand. The butterfly’s body is worked right into the mitt, making it a great way to dip your toes into colour work if you’ve never tried it before. The wings are made separately and attached afterward, giving them a lovely 3D effect that really makes the design stand out.
If you’ve never knitted fingerless gloves before, don’t worry—I’ve got you covered! You can start with my Simple Fingerless Gloves pattern, which is perfect for beginners and will give you the skills you need before trying the butterfly version. Also, it has a full how-to video showing how to knit them from start to finish and sew the seams. Click the pic below if you would like to read the pattern and watch the video.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, you can get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country –United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only. .
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Don’t forget to share this page on Facebook, Pinterest, and the like. Use the icons below for easy click sharing! Your share helps promote my work and helps this website 😊
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) for the MC. Any colours of your choosing for the body and wings. It won’t take much to make these parts.
WC – wing colour
MC – main colour
BC – body colour
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 4 US (3.5 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Wings – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
All use stockinette for gauge.
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4)
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6)
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8)
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Wings (regardless of size)
Size 3.25 mm (US size 3)
8 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
10 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
You can use 3.5 mm (US size 4) needles too. The sts need to be small and tight for the wing to hold its shape.
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the creature the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended).
And because I just couldn’t let newer knitters struggle with making the head, body or wings, I made a quick video to help explain these parts and specific stitches.
Left Glove
With the needles you need for the size you want (3.5, 4 or 5 mm) cast on 34 sts with MC
Row 1: *P1 K2* Repeat from * to * across. P last st.
Row 2: ♠ K1 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ across. K last st.
Row 18: P11 In BC P1 In MC P9 PM1 P3 PM1 P12 (38 sts)
Row 19: In MC K26. In BC make Head Bobble (K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back and front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, turn, P5 turn, TWK2tog K1 K2tog turn, P3 turn, TWK2tog. Pass this st over to the non-working needle. Pass the st on the LEFT over the st on the RIGHT. Pass the st back over to the working needle (do NOT turn). In MC K11 (38 sts)
If you need help with making the head, the video below is cued up to help you with this specific part.
Row 20: In MC P11. In BC P1 in MC P26
Row 21: In MC K12 M1 K5 M1 K9. In BC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back and front of the stitch. In MC K11 (42 sts) Watch the video below if you need help starting the body.
Row 22: In MC P11. In BC P3. In MC P28
Row 23: In MC K28. In BC K3. In MC K11
Row 24: In MC P11. In BC P3. In MC P9 PM1 P7 PM1 P12 (44 sts)
Row 25: In MC K30. In BC K3. In MC K11
Row 26: In MC P11. In BC P3. In MC P30
Row 27: In MC K12 M1 K9 M1 K9. In BC K3. In MC K11 (46 sts)
Row 28: In MC P11. In BC P3. In MC P32
Row 29:In MC K32. In BC K3. In MC K11
Row 30: In MC P11. In BC P3. In MC P9 PM1 P11 PM1 P12 (48 sts)
Row 31: In MC K34. In BC K3. In MC K11
Row 32: In MC P11. In BC P3. In MC P34
Row 33: In MC K12. Pass the next 13 stitches to a stitch holder. K9. In BC K3, turn. P3, turn. TWK2tog. Pass this st over to the non-working needle. Pass the st on the LEFT over the st on the RIGHT. Pass the st back over to the working needle (do NOT turn). In MC K11. Break BC (33 sts) If you need help ending the body, watch the video below.
Row 34: P across
Row 35: K across
Row 36: P across
♫ Row 37: K1 P1 ♥ K2 P1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ to the last st. K1
Row 38: P1 K1 ♦ P2 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. P1 ♫
Repeat from ♫ to ♫ one more time.
Cast off loosely.
Making the Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder. With the RIGHT side facing you.
Row 1: *P1 K2* Repeat from * to * across. P last st.
Row 2: ♠ K1 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ across. K last st.
Row 18: P12 PM1 P3 PM1 P9 In BC P1 In MC P11 (38 sts)
Row 19: In MC K11. In BC make Head Bobble (K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back and front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, turn, P5 turn, TWK2tog K1 K2tog turn, P3 turn, TWK2tog. Pass this st over to the non-working needle. Pass the st on the LEFT over the st on the RIGHT. Pass the st back over to the working needle (do NOT turn). In MC K26 (38 sts)
Row 20: In MC P26. In BC P1 in MC P11
Row 21: In MC K11. In BC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back and front of the stitch. In MC K9 M1 K5 M1 K12 (42 sts)
Row 22: In MC P28. In BC P3. In MC P11
Row 23: In MC K11. In BC K3. In MC K28
Row 24: In MC P12 PM1 P7 PM1 P9. In BC P3. In MC P11 (44 sts)
Row 25: In MC K11. In BC K3. In MC K30
Row 26: In MC P30. In BC P3. In MC P11
Row 27: In MC K11. In BC K3. In MC K9 M1 K9 M1 K12 (46 sts)
Row 28: In MC P32. In BC P3. In MC P11
Row 29: In MC K11. In BC K3. In MC K32
Row 30: In MC P12 PM1 P11 PM1 P9. In BC P3. In MC P11 (48 sts)
Row 31: In MC K11. In BC K3. In MC K34
Row 32: In MC P34. In BC P3. In MC P11
Row 33: In MC K11. In BC K3, turn. P3, turn. TWK2tog. Pass this st over to the non-working needle. Pass the st on the LEFT over the st on the RIGHT. Pass the st back over to the working needle (do NOT turn). In MC K9. Pass the next 13 stitches to a stitch holder. K12. Break BC (33 sts)
Row 34: P across
Row 35: K across
Row 36: P across
♫ Row 37: K1 P1 ♥ K2 P1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ to the last st. K1
Row 38: P1 K1 ♦ P2 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. P1 ♫
Repeat from ♫ to ♫ one more time.
Cast off loosely.
Making the Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder. With the RIGHT side facing you.
Row 1: *P1 K2* Repeat from * to * across. P last st.
Row 2: ♠ K1 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ across. K last st.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 4 rows.
Cast off loosely.
Left Top Wing (make 2)
With 3.25 mm needles and WC cast on 4 sts
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P1 K2 P1
Row 3: K1 M1 K2 M1 K1
Row 4: P2 K2 P2
Row 5: K2 M1 K2 M1 K2
Row 6: P2 K4 P2
Row 7: K across
Row 8: P2 K4 P2
Row 9: K5 K2tog K1
Row 10: P2 K3 P2
Row 11: K4 K2tog K1
Row 12: P2 K2 P2
Row 13: K3 K2tog K1
Row 14: P2 K1 P2
Row 15: K2 K2tog K1
Row 16: P4
Row 17: TWK2tog K2tog
Row 18: TBLP2tog
Break yarn. If you need help with the end of the wing, watch the video below. It’s cued up exactly for what you need to know.
Left Bottom Wing (make 2)
With 3.25 mm needles and WC cast on 4 sts
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P1 K2 P1
Row 3: K1 M1 K2 M1 K1
Row 4: P2 K2 P2
Row 5: K across
Row 6: P2 K2 P2
Row 7: K3 K2tog K1
Row 8: P2 K1 P2
Row 9: K2 K2tog K1
Row 10: P4
Row 11: TWK2tog K2tog
Row 12: TBLP2tog
Break yarn.
Right Top Wing (make 2)
With 3.25 mm needles and WC cast on 4 sts
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P1 K2 P1
Row 3: K1 M1 K2 M1 K1
Row 4: P2 K2 P2
Row 5: K2 M1 K2 M1 K2
Row 6: P2 K4 P2
Row 7: K across
Row 8: P2 K4 P2
Row 9: K1 TWK2tog K5
Row 10: P2 K3 P2
Row 11: K1 TWK2tog K4
Row 12: P2 K2 P2
Row 13: K1 TWK2tog K3
Row 14: P2 K1 P2
Row 15: K1 TWK2tog K2
Row 16: P4
Row 17: TWK2tog K2tog
Row 18: TBLP2tog
Break yarn.
Right Bottom Wing (make 2)
With 3.25 mm needles and WC cast on 4 sts
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P1 K2 P1
Row 3: K1 M1 K2 M1 K1
Row 4: P2 K2 P2
Row 5: K across
Row 6: P2 K2 P2
Row 7: K1 TWK2tog K3
Row 8: P2 K1 P2
Row 9: K1 TWK2tog K2
Row 10: P4
Row 11: TWK2tog K2tog
Row 12: TBLP2tog
Break yarn.
Arrange the wings so they look like this. Sew the top and bottom sides of the wings together. Now it’s time to start on the gloves.
How to Make the Antenna Dots (French Knots)
You can make the dots on top of the antenna on the head of your butterflies. You can even leave the head plain if you like. It’s up to you. The “stick” part is just a simple single stitch.
The purple butterflies don’t have antenna, the blue gloves do.
If you want to make the dots, they’re French knots, you can watch the video. It’s for a different pattern, but the technique is the same.
Hints and Tips
Pass the MC yarn behind your work when making the body of the butterfly. Because it’s such a small span, there’s no need to catch the yarn as you knit the body. Pull the yarn snug so the stitches hold their shape on each side of the body.
Arrange your wings any way you like. Sew the Top and Bottom wings together, then attach the wings to the body.
Play with colour and use variegated yarn for the body and wings. Colour can really make the butterfly pop.
You don’t have to tack down the head and wings, but I feel it looks a little more finished. It also helps the to hold the wings in place to make them less floppy. I use the end of the yarn used to start the head to attach the head directly to the body. A quick st in the middle of each of the top wings works well.
Make sure you finish the butterfly (attach wings, tack down the head) BEFORE you sew up the seam along the side.
Work in the ends and don’t just knot off your yarn. You don’t want a knot directly rubbing on the back of the wearers hand.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
st – stitch
sts – stitches
sl – slip the stitch
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click to watch this video.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would.
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.
TBLP2tog – (Through the Back Loop, Purl 2 sts together) – Purl 2 together through the back loop from left to right.
Bring the magic of the holidays to your knitting with this Reindeer Fingerless Gloves knitting pattern! Designed in adult sizes only, these cozy and festive gloves feature a sweet reindeer motif with little antlers that make them extra fun for winter wear. Whether you’re getting ready for Christmas parties, enjoying a holiday market, or just want something cozy and seasonal, these fingerless mitts are a perfect choice.
The pattern is not for beginners, but it does include step-by-step photos showing exactly how to create the antlers and work through the trickier details. If you love making handmade Christmas gifts, these reindeer gloves are a great project—ideal as stocking stuffers, gifts for knit-worthy friends, or a special treat just for you.
Inspired by the holiday classic Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer, these festive fingerless gloves capture the charm of winter’s favourite reindeer while keeping your hands warm and practical for everyday wear.
Love the reindeer motif? I also have Christmas slippers with the same deer face you can make for the entire family. Click this link –Reindeer Slippers for the Whole Family or tap the photo.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country –United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
MC – main colour
DFC – deer face colour
AC – antler colour
CC – cuff colour
Knitting needles: (See notes on sizing)
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
0.27 inch (7mm) wiggle eyes or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.
Pom poms
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the hippo the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.
RIGHT Hand
With MC or CC – cast on 34
Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change to MC, do so now.)
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts. K20. (47 sts) Watch the video below if you need help with casting on.
Row 14-16: Knit across
Row 17: K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K20. (45 sts)
Row 18-20: K across
Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, In DFC (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn). In MC K9. (49 sts)
Row 22: In MC K9 In DFC P8. In MC K32
Row 23: In MC K32 In DFC K8. In MC K9.
Row 24: In MC K9 In DFC P8. In MC K32
Row 25 : In MC K14, K2tog K5 K2tog, K9, In DFC DFC TWK2tog. K4 K2tog. In MC K9. (45 sts)
Row 26: In MC K9 In DFC P6. In MC K30
Row 27: In MC K30 In DFC TWK2tog. K2 K2tog. In MC K9. (43 sts)
Row 28: In MC K9 In DFC P4. In MC K30
Row 29: In MC K14, K2tog K3 K2tog, K8, In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, TWK3tog (do NOT turn). In AC TWK2tog K2tog. In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). In MC K8. (39 sts) Break DFC yarn.
Row 30: In MC K9 In AC P2 In MC K28
Row 31: In MC K27 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle. In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC In MC K8. (39 sts)
Row 32: In MC K8. In AC P1. In MC K2. In AC P1. In MC K27.
Row 33: In MC K14, K2tog K1 K2tog, K7, Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, In AC K the st on the non-working needle, IN MC K the st on the cable needle. In AC pick up and K the st BELOW (see photos). In MC K2 . In AC pick up and K in the 2nd st BELOW. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K7 (39 sts)
First Antler
Place it on the non-working needle
Knit the stitch
Stitch completed
Second Antler
Lift and place on non-working needle
Knit the stitch
Use the cable needle to pull the next st FORWARD.Knit the next stitch on the non-working needle with MC. With AC knit the st on the cable needle.
Row 34: In MC K7. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K24.
Row 35: In MC K23. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K st on the cable needle. K the next st on the non-working needle. In AC K. In MC K2. In AC K. In MC K. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K6
Row 36: In MC K6. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K23).
Row 37: In MC K23. In AC K. In MC K8. In AC K. In MC K6.
Row 38: In MC K6. In AC P. In MC K8. In AC P. In MC K23. Break AC.
Rows 39 – 44: Knit across
With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change to CC, do so now.)
Row 45: K across
Row 46: P1 K1 ☺ P2 K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺to the last st. P1.
*Row 47: K1 P1 ◊ K2 P1 ◊. Repeat from ◊ to ◊ to the last st. K1.
Row 48: As row 46 *
Repeat from * to * for 8 more rows. Repeat these 2 rows for a longer cuff.
Cast off.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch the video below.
Row 21: K9. In DFC (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn). In MC K9, K2tog K7 K2tog, K14. (49 sts)
Row 22: In MC K32 In DFC P8. In MC K9
Row 23: In MC K9 In DFC K8. In MC K32.
Row 24: In MC K32 In DFC P8. In MC K9
Row 25 : In MC K9, In DFC DFC TWK2tog. K4 K2tog. In MC K9, K2tog K5 K2tog, K14. (45 sts)
Row 26: In MC K30 In DFC P6. In MC K9
Row 27: In MC K9 In DFC TWK2tog. K2 K2tog. In MC K30. (43 sts)
Row 28: In MC K30 In DFC P4. In MC K9
Row 29: In MC K8, In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, TWK3tog (do NOTturn). In AC TWK2tog K2tog. In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). In MC K8, K2tog K3 K2tog, K14 (39 sts) Break DFC yarn.
Row 30: In MC K28 In AC P2 In MC K9.
Row 31: In MC K8 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K27. (39 sts)
Row 32: In MC K27. In AC P1. In MC K2. In AC P1. In MC K8.
Row 33: In MC K7 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, In AC K the st on the non-working needle, IN MC K the st on the cable needle. In AC pick up and K the st BELOW (see photos). In MC K2 . In AC pick up and K in the 2nd st BELOW. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K7, K2tog K1 K2tog, K14. (39 sts)
Row 34: In MC K24. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K7.
Row 35: In MC K6. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K st on the cable needle. K the next st on the non-working needle. In AC K. In MC K2. In AC K. In MC K. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K23.
Row 36: In MC K23. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K6.
Row 37: In MC K6. In AC K. In MC K8. In AC K. In MC K23.
Row 38: In MC K23. In AC P. In MC K8. In AC P. In MC K6. Break AC.
Rows 39 – 44: Knit across
With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change to CC, do so now.)
Row 45: K across
Row 46: P1 K1 ☺ P2 K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺to the last st. P1.
*Row 47: K1 P1 ◊ K2 P1 ◊. Repeat from ◊ to ◊ to the last st. K1.
Row 48: As row 46 *
Repeat from * to * for 8 more rows. Repeat these 2 rows for a longer cuff.
Cast off.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
Hints and Tips
Picking up the stitch to make the second branch of the antler is sort of up to you. If you pick up the stitch right below where you just knitted, it won’t be a disaster. Most deer antlers aren’t perfectly symmetrical in real life anyways. In fact, the more off they are, the more desirable; especially if it has a drop tine.
Work in the ends on the backside of the reindeer and sew the thumb seam before you sew the seam along the side of the glove. It’s easier to do it this way.
Depending on how you do your colour work, your antler stitches may not all be the same size with some being larger and some smaller. It doesn’t bother me but if it’s an issue for you, you can adjust them slightly with the yarn carried behind your work. Regardless, stretch your work horizontally and vertically to even out the stitches when you’re done.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch the video that shows you how.
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left. Yes, the video is showing how to make a mushroom, but I’ve cued up how to make the st.
TWK3tog – same as TWK2tog but knit 3 stitches together instead of 2.
If you’ve been looking for a fun and cozy project, this stuffed wolf knitting pattern is a great one to try. The toy is knit flat on straight needles, so you don’t need to fuss with knitting in the round. Once you sew the pieces together and add stuffing, you’ll have a handmade wolf that’s soft, cuddly, and full of character.
I designed this wolf knitting pattern to be simple and enjoyable, with clear instructions that make it easy to follow along. It’s perfect if you’ve been wanting to try a knitting pattern for stuffed animals but don’t want anything too complicated. Whether you’re making it as a gift, adding to your collection of knitted toys, or just looking for your next relaxing project, this wolf is a fun way to bring a little wild charm into your knitting. Grab your yarn, cast on, and let’s knit a wolf!
As a side note, I’ve always wanted to make videos for kids starring stuffed animals. Good wholesome stuff for the kids to watch. I’ve received some negative feedback on the use of AI to animate the wolf. I thought that this would be a great use of the new tech, but now I’m not so sure. I made a demo video you can watch here. Let me know your thoughts in the comments. Should I do this or not? Even with AI it’s a lot of work to make these videos. Just because I’m not making the animations myself, there is still the story and video editing required.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country –United States, United Kingdom, Canada, andAustralia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Worsted weight yarn – one standard ball size: 250g / 8.8 oz, 381 meters / 417 yards.
4 mm (US 6) single point knitting needles
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle
Stuffing – how much depends on the size you make and how firm or soft you like your stuffed animals and dolls.
You can use any type and thickness of yarn you like for this project. If it’s a thinner yarn, it will be smaller. If thicker – larger. I recommend using a needle size one size smaller than recommended for the yarn. It makes the stitches tighter to help the wolf hold its shape and contain the stuffing.
Gauge
In garter stitch and with 4 mm needles and worsted weight yarn
34 rows – 4 inches
18 sts – 4 inches
Wolf Body
Cast on 30
Row 1: K across.
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 24 rows.
Row 25: K5 K2tog K12 K2tog K9. (28 sts)
Row 26: P5 TBLP2tog P11 TBLP2tog P8. (26 sts)
Row 27: K4 K2tog K10 K2tog K8. (24 sts)
Row 28: P4 TBLP2tog P9 TBLP2tog P7. (22 sts)
Row 29: * K1 K2tog * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1. (15 sts)
Row 30: P across.
Row 31: K across.
Row 32: P across.
Head
Row 33: Reach down and increase in every st. (30 sts)
Knit the stitch as you normally would.
Pick up the stitch below the stitch you just knit.
Pick up the stitch and knit as you normally would.
Stitch completed
Row 34: P across
Row 35: K13 M1 Sl 4 sts (do NOT knit slipped stitches now and for the rest of the pattern) M1 K13 (32 sts)
Row 65: K2tog across. Break yarn leaving a long enough length to sew seam up the back of the body and head. Draw through.
Foot and Leg (make 2)
Cast on 22
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K7. Cast off 8 sts. K6. (One st remains on your working needle when casting off). (14 sts)
Row 10: P across. (Bring the sts on the left and right side of the cast off section together so they touch. Purl across as you normally would) (14 sts)
Bring the sts on each side of the cast off sts together.
Purling the sts
Row 10 complete. Wrong side.
View from the side.
Row 11: K across
Row 12: P across. Repeat row 11 and 12 for a total of 12 rows.
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 20 rows.
Row 21: K3 K2tog K9 (13 sts)
Row 22: P3 TBLP2tog P8 (12 sts)
Row 23: K across
Row 24: P across
Row 25: K3 M1 Sl 6 M1 K3 (14 sts)
Row 26: P across
Row 27: K across
Row 28: P across. Repeat row 27 and 28, 3 more times.
Row 35: K2tog across (7 sts)
Row 36: P across
Row 37: K2tog across to the last st. K1.
Break yarn leaving a long enough length to sew seam up the back of the paw and arm. Draw through.
Ear (make 2)
Cast on 10 sts. Leave a long length of yarn when casting on to sew the ear to the head
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across
Row 3: K7 K2tog. K1 (9 sts)
Row 4: P6 TBLP2tog P1 (8 sts)
Row 5: K5 K2tog. K1 (7 sts)
Row 6: P4 TBLP2tog P1 (6 sts)
Row 7: K3 K2tog. K1 (5 sts)
Row 8: P2 TBLP2tog P1 (4 sts)
Row 9: K1 K2tog. K1 (3 sts)
Row 10: TBLP2tog P1 (2 sts)
Row 11: K2tog. Break yarn. Draw through.
Tail
Cast on 8 sts
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 4 rows.
Row 5: K3 M1 Sl 2 M1 K3 (10 sts)
Row 6: P across
Row 7: K4 M1 Sl 2 M1 K4 (12 sts)
Row 8: P across
Row 9: K5 M1 Sl 2 M1 K5 (14 sts)
Row 10: P across
Row 11: K6 M1 Sl 2 M1 K6 (16 sts)
Row 12: P across
Row 13: K across
Row 14: P across. Repeat row 13 and 14, 2 more times.
Row 19: K2 K2tog K12 (15 sts)
Row 20: P2 TBLP2tog P11 (14 sts)
Row 21: K2 K2tog K10 (13 sts)
Row 22: P2 TBLP2tog P9 (12 sts)
Row 23: K2 K2tog K8 (11 sts)
Row 24: P2 TBLP2tog P7 (10 sts)
Row 25: K2 K2tog K6 (9 sts)
Row 26: P2 TBLP2tog P5 (8 sts)
Row 27: K2 K2tog K4 (7 sts)
Row 28: P2 TBLP2tog P3 (6 sts)
Row 29: K2tog across. Break yarn leaving a long enough length to sew seam up the back of the tail and sew to body. Draw through.
Hints and Tips
If you have difficulty picking up the sts below in row 33 of the head, you can always do a simple increase in each st (2 sts in one st). I’m showing you how to do it this way so you avoid holes around the neck.
Sew together however you feel is best. The legs are large enough at the top the form what you could call butt cheeks. Sew the legs together, then sew them to the back and front. They don’t match st for st so you’ll need to fiddle with making it go together.
You may need another length of yarn when sewing to top of the foot.
Stuff it as firmly as you like. I like mine more on the squishy side yet firm enough to hold its shape.
Embroider on a nose and eyes or you can use googly eyes. You can leave the front paws as is or add lines to separate the “fingers”. Or are they toes? I’m not sure how to refer to them.
I have not done this, but if you use pure wool you can felt this. I would recommend you felt it BEFORE you sew the pieces together and stuff it. If you do this, let me know how it works out for you.
Abbreviations
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Sl – slip the stitch
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
TBLP2tog – (Through the Back Loop, Purl 2 sts together) – Purl 2 together through the back loop from left to right. Click this link TBLP2tog to watch the video. Yes it’s for a different pattern but the stitch technique is the same.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or sell this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
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Bring a little extra cheer to your holiday season with this free knitting pattern for Christmas reindeer slippers! Designed with a bright red nose and a snug, cozy fit, these handmade knit slippers are the perfect way to keep your feet warm while celebrating the holidays. With slipper sizes for kids and adults, you can make a pair for nearly the whole family and enjoy matching reindeer slippers that are just as fun to knit as they are to wear. They also make wonderful handmade Christmas gifts and are small enough to tuck into stockings as cozy holiday stocking stuffers.
I’ll also be adding more reindeer-themed knitting patterns to go along with these slippers. At the time of writing this, I’m working on a pair of knitted fingerless gloves, though they aren’t published yet. Keep an eye out, or do a quick search above to see if they’re ready, along with plenty of other free knitting patterns for slippers, gloves, hats, and holiday gift ideas you can knit for friends and family.
This is not a beginner-friendly pattern, so you’ll need a solid understanding of knitting techniques before starting. You should be comfortable using a cable needle, working with color changes, and carrying yarn behind your work when switching colors. While there isn’t a video tutorial for this pattern specifically, all the stitches are explained in the Abbreviations section, complete with helpful videos.
If you are looking for a similar slipper without Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer, I have that too! You can click this link to make it for adults and this one to make it for children.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country –United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
WORSTED weight yarn in the following colours The amount for the main colour depends on the size. Adult sizes will take less than one standard ball (482 yards/ 440 m)
MC – main colour
DFC – deer face colour
AC – antler colour
CC – cuff colour
2 sets of 4 mm knitting needles
Cable needle
googly eyes
pom poms
Gauge
In garter stitch
34 rows – 4 inches
18 sts – 4 inches
Size are written as such:
Sizes Child and Women 7-8 (9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3, 4-5, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men x(x, x, x, x, x, 6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
Men’s sizes are one size smaller than women. A woman size 7 is the same as a man’s size 6, a woman size 11 is the same as a man’s size 10, and so forth.)
Toe Flap
With MC
Cast on 10 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 14)
* Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Knit across * Repeat from * to * for a total of 8 (10, 10, 10, 12, 12, 14, 14, 14, 16) rows
Next row: K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) In DFC (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn). In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6). In DFC P8. In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6). In DFC K8. In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6). In DFC P8. In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6). In DFC DFC TWK2tog. K4 K2tog. In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6). In DFC P6. In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6). In DFC TWK2tog. K2 K2tog. In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6). In DFC P4. In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5). In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, TWK3tog (do NOT turn). In AC TWK2tog K2tog. In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). In MC K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5). Break DFC yarn.
Next row: In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6). In AC P2 In MC K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6).
Next row: In MC K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5). Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5,5, 5).
Next row: In MC K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5). In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 5).
Next row: In MC K2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, In AC K the st on the non-working needle, IN MC K the st on the cable needle. In AC pick up and K the st BELOW (see photos). In MC K2 . In AC pick up and K in the 2nd st BELOW. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4).
First Antler
Place it on the non-working needle
Knit the stitch
Stitch completed
Second Antler
Lift and place on non-working needle
Knit the stitch
Use the cable needle to pull the next st FORWARD. Knit the next stitch on the non-working needle with MC. With AC knit the st on the cable needle.
Next row: K2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4). In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K2 (2,2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4).
Next row: In MC K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3). Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K st on the cable needle. K the next st on the non-working needle. In AC K. In MC K2. In AC K. In MC K. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3).
Next row: In MC K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3). In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3)..
Next row: In MC K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3). In AC K. In MC K8. In AC K. In MC K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3).
Next row: In MC K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3). In AC P. In MC K8. In AC P. In MC K1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3). Break AC yarn. (12, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16, 16, 16 sts).
♠ Next row: In MC K across
Next row: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ one more time for Women’s sizes (8-9, 10-11, 12) and Men’s sizes (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
Next row: K across. Cast on 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13,14). (19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 30 sts)
Next row: K across. Cast on 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13,14). (26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 sts)
♦Next row: K across.
Next row: K across. ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 4) times more. Break MC
Next row: In CC ♣ K5 M1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the end of the row. Knit any remaining sts after the last M1 (it will be 4 sts or less).
Next row: P across
♪ Next row K across
Next row: P across. Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 2 times more for all sizes.
Cast off.
Toe and cuff complete
Sides of the Slipper
With MC, and the 1st knitting needle, pick up 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14) along the bottom of the cuff. Pick up evenly14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23, 24) along the side of the toe. With the 2nd knitting needle, pick up 8 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12) along the tip of the toe. With the 3rd knitting needle, pick up evenly14 (15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, 23,24) along the side of the toe. Pick up 7 (8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12, 13, 14) along the side of the slipper.
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
Stitches picked up to start the edge
Knit the next 6 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 14, 16) rows
There are 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The following photo shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
These are the ridges picked up along the side.
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 7 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11) stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
If you need more help making the sole you can watch the how-to video. It’s done the same way for this pattern and the one shown in the video.
Next row: In MC, with the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle). K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. 8 (8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12,12, 12 stitches).
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next row: Knit across.
ʤNext row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. ( 8, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10, 12, 12, 12, 12stitches).
Next row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Making the Heel
If you need more help making the heel you can watch the how-to video. It’s done the same way for this pattern and the one shown in the video.
You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.
ҨNext row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 10) stitches).
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.
Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above
After you K2tog across, you’ll pick up a stitch here.
Stitch picked up at the end of the row.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain. End with the K across row.
Next row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog 3 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Pick up a st along the side as you’ve done before. K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pick up a st along the other side.
Next row: (WRONG side facing you) K2tog, K1, K2tog.
Next row: Knit the 3 sts together.
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the seam and cuff. The cuff will automatically roll over when done.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
Picking up the stitch to make the second branch of the antler is sort of up to you. If you pick up the stitch right below where you just knitted, it won’t be a disaster. Most deer antlers aren’t perfectly symmetrical in real life anyways. In fact, the more off they are, the more desirable; especially if it has a drop tine.
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated in the rows designed with ♪.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row for the sole, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. You can watch the how to video here – how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch.
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left. Yes, the video is showing how to make a mushroom, but I’ve cued up how to make the st.
TWK3tog – same as TWK2tog but knit 3 stitches together instead of 2.
This knit beanie pattern is about as easy as it gets — no complicated charts or weird stitches here. You just need to know knit, purl, and a simple decrease, plus how to pick up stitches (but don’t stress, the pick-up joins are totally hidden even if you’re not perfect at it).
Best part? This hat fits anyone. Seriously. Whether you’re making one for yourself, your son or daughter, niece or nephew, husband or wife, the whole family or someone else entirely, everyone gets a great fit without the headache of resizing or guessing.
There’s no printable pattern because honestly, it’s so simple you don’t need one. Just follow along online, watch the YouTube video and you’ll have matching hats for everyone before you know it.
Ready to make your new favorite go-to hat? Let’s do this!
Don’t forget to share this with your friends and family with the icons below! 🙏🏽 🥰
Things You Need
Worsted weight (AKA – 4, medium, or 10 ply) yarn – One standard 5 oz (141 gram) ball will work. Play with colour and texture for unique final products. Please note: pom-pom will require more yarn than estimate given.
Size 5 mm (US size 8) single point knitting needles or whatever size you need to acquire the correct gauge.
Tapestry needle – Sew seams and work in ends.
If you want to watch the how-to video showing how to use this website and knit the beanie, you can watch it from the start right here 😊
Gauge
In stockinette
23 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)
17 sts = 4 inches (10 cm)
Sizing Notes
First things first: let’s figure out how big to make the hat. When you’re going by age and gender, the measurements are only approximate – especially for kids. Adult sizes are more standardized: small, medium, large, and extra large.
If the person’s head is handy, measuring it directly is always best. That said, knitting isn’t an exact science. It stretches and contracts as needed, especially with the garter stitch brim this hat uses.
Child Sizing
Data is based on World Health Organization and pediatric growth standards. You can also do an online search for sizing if you believe it to be inaccurate. Other organizations located in the USA, UK, etc give sizes as being slightly larger. A gentle reminder that this is knitting and it does stretch to accommodate close measurements. Close IS usually good enough in this case.
Adult Sizing
Small/Medium - 21 to 22 inches (53.5 – 56 cm)
Large/Extra Large - 23 to 24 inches (57 – 61 cm)
Enter the head measurement you computed or selected above. The calculator will instantly show how many stitches to cast on and what rows to knit.
Cast off all sts. Band complete.
With the RIGHT side of the hat facing you (the single line of stitches is visible and the closest to the top), pick up stitches along the edge. Pick up one stitch in the nub of each garter "ridge", and for every group of five stitches picked up, add an extra stitch between the nubs.
If you need a little help with picking up the stitches, the video is cued up to the right spot in the video to help you out.
Work your way down the length repeating pick up a st in every 5 nubs, pick up a st between the nubs. Knit whatever remaining sts remain after picking up between the ridge nubs (ie 4, 3, 2 or 1 st). The number of sts picked up will vary depending on the size. The number isn't overly important. It's still just knitting and stretches afterall. More detail is in the Hints and Tips section further down the page.
🍄 Next row: Knit across
Next row: Purl across 🍄 Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 for the length calculated below.
Use the calculator below to determine the length of the stockinette portion you need. The repeated rows between 🍄 to 🍄
🌸 Next row: K2tog across. Knit any single remaining sts.
Next row: Purl across
Next row: Knit across
Next row: Purl across. 🌸 Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 until you have 12 sts or less. End when you complete the K2tog row with the correct number of sts.
Break the yarn. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the seam. Draw through all remaining sts. Sew seam.
Done! Told you this was easy 😊
You are welcome to sell, gift, or keep any physical items you make using this pattern. However, the pattern itself is protected by copyright. You may not reproduce, distribute, share, or recreate this pattern, in whole or in part, in any form or format without my written permission.
Think of picking up the sts as this math equation. For every 5 sts you need one extra st. So for as many groups of 5 "ridges" you have of garter st for the band, that's how many extra sts you need to pick up evenly.
So say you have 114 rows to knit for the band. Divide that by 2. The number you get (the number of garter "ridges") is then divided by 5. You have 11 groups of 5. Add 11 (the number of groups) to the number of garter "ridges". Add the number of sts left over (the remainder from dividing, in this case 2. That's roughly the number of sts you need to pick up evenly across the edge. Being off by 1 or 2 sts won't make a difference.
114 ÷ 2 = 57 (you can also just count the number of "ridges" you have.
57 ÷ 5 = 11.4 round to 11
57 + 11 = 68
68 + 2 = 70 👈🏼 the total number of sts to pick up.
If you want to make the hat more floppy on the top or the band wider, have at it. This pattern is easily customizable.
If you want a wider band, cast on more sts. More floppy on top, make the stockinette part longer than directed.
Stay warm and whimsical this winter with my adult-sized winter mushroom hat knitting pattern! This fun and cozy design is the cold-weather companion to my popular Mushroom Bucket Hat, and it pairs perfectly with my Mushroom Fingerless Gloves. The beanie features seven adorable toadstools knit into the body of the hat, making it a great project if you love woodland-inspired fashion, fairycore or cottagecore aesthetics, or just want to knit something a little different for the colder months. Whether you’re making it for yourself, as a handmade gift, or to sell at craft fairs or online, this toadstool toque is sure to turn heads.
The hat is knit flat on two straight needles (no circulars or double-points needed) and seamed at the back—ideal for knitters who prefer working flat. It uses worsted weight yarn, and I’ve included detailed instructions along with how-to videos showing exactly how to make the mushrooms. If you’ve already made the brimmed version of this hat for spring or summer, this is the perfect follow-up for your fall and winter wardrobe. It’s a cozy, cute way to bring a bit of whimsy into the cold months.
To get the mushrooms to pop against the background, you’ll need to catch the yarn at the back when switching colours. Just carry the yarn behind the work and pick it up when knitting on the right side. It’s the same technique as regular colourwork. The video shows you how to pull it tighter for the gloves, but for the hat, your usual tension will work just fine.
The video is queued to the right spot for each row as you knit the mushrooms. I originally showed how to make the toadstools on gloves but kept the video general enough to apply to anything. You can watch the video by clicking the video below. It will automatically play from the start for the gloves with the intro.
I’ve made this hat to only fit adults as I got tired of making hats. I ran out of patience and desire to do the math and make the samples of smaller hats. If you want me to work up child sized versions, let me know. You can leave me a comment below.
If you are a fan of mushrooms and cottage core, I have other mushroom patterns you’ll like. Just like this pattern, they are knit flat with straight needles. Click either the link or the photos to read the patterns for Knit Flat Mushroom Bucket Hat and Knit Flat Mushroom Fingerless Gloves.
For ease of knitting this hat, I generally used one colour for the mushrooms on my sample hat. There is nothing stopping you from making each mushroom unique with its individual coloured stem and cap. It would be a great way to use up some of those small leftovers of yarn that really aren’t good for much more than a single stripe on a scarf.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry,LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country –United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Main Colour (MC): approx. 175 g (one standard ball of big box store yarn will be enough).
Stem Colour (SC): small amount. Each stem uses about 120 cm (47 inches)
Cap Colour (CC): approx. 30 g Each cap uses about 275 cm (108 inches)
1 set of 4 mm (US 6) single pointed knitting needles
1 set of 3.25 or 3.5 mm (US 3 or 4) single pointed knitting needles (optional)
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Pom pom for the top (optional)
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
21-22 inches (23-24 inches)
53.5 – 56 cm (57 – 61 cm)
Brim
With MC cast on 92 (98) sts with the 3.25 or 3.5 mm knitting needles. You can use the 4 mm needles but smaller needles will make a tighter brim edge.
Switch to the 4 mm (US 6) for the remainder of the pattern.
♥ Row 1: ♫ K2 P1♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 2: *P2 K1* Repeat from * to * until the last 2 sts. P2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ for a total of 4 rows
Row 9: K across.
Row 10: P across.
Row 11: K acrossto the last 2 sts. K2tog. (91, 97 sts)
Row 12: As row 10
Mushroom Band or Crown
Row 13: K5. With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ With MC K10 (11). With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 times more. With MC K5. (105, 111 sts)
Row 14: P5. With SC P5. ◊ With MC K10 (11). With SC P5.◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 5 times more. With MC P5.
Row 15: K5. With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.(91, 97 sts)
Row 16: P5. With SC P3. ☺ With MC P10 (11). With SC P3. ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 5 times more. With MC P5.
Row 17: K5. With SC K3. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC K3. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.
Row 18: As row 22
Row 19: K3. With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ With MC K6 (7). With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ Repeat from ₪ to ₪ 5 times more. With MC K3. ( 133, 139 sts)
Row 20: P3. With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † With MC P6 (7). With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † Repeat from † to † 5 times more. With MC P3. (119, 125 sts)
Row 21: K3. M1. ♫ With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. K6 (7). M1. With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 5 times more. With MC K3. (119, 125 sts)
Row 22: P4. With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ With MC P8 (9). With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 5 times more. With MC P4. (105, 111 sts)
Row 23: K4. M1. ♣ With CC TWK2tog K3 K2tog. With MC M1 K8 (9) M1. With CC TWK2tog With MC M1. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 times more. With MC K4. (105, 111 sts)
Row 24: With MC P across
✾ Row 25: K across
Row 26: P across ✾ Repeat from ✾ to ✾ for an additional 5 1/2 inches or 14 cm. You can make this shorter if you would like a fitted beanie or longer if you want a longer and floppier toque.
✿ Next row: K2tog across. If a single st remains, knit it.
Next row: P across ✿ Repeat from ✿ to ✿ 2 more times.(14 sts. If you have 1 more or 1 less st it won’t make a difference).
Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam and add embellishments to the mushrooms if desired. Work in all ends.Watch the video for help on finishing and catching any loose stitches. Add a pom pom if you like! You can use this link – Finishing
How to Make the Dots (French Knots)
You can make the dots or you can do flecks on your mushroom caps. You can even leave the cap plain if you like. It’s up to you. To make the flecks, just go over a few stitches with a complimentary colour of yarn.
If you want to make the dots, they’re French knots, you can watch the video below.
Hints and Tips
The video showing how the knit the mushroom is very similar but not exactly the same. The stem is shorter than in the original mushroom in the video. It fits the hat better when done like this. Also, the mushroom cap is one row shorter. Because the stitches are stockinette on the right side, purling across on the wrong side with the main colour looks ok on the right side.
I suggest not keeping the lengths of the stem colour long like I did for the mushroom in the video (I also don’t include the french knots in the length required for the stems) There are 7 ends to contend with and can be a bit cumbersome to manage when trying to knit. It’s better to use a shorter length to knit the stem and come back with another, separate length of yarn to make the embellishments like the french knots or the flecks.
The lengths of yarn given for the stem and mushroom are approximate only. You may need more or less depending how much you need to wrap around your fingers for even tension. Similarly, the amount of yarn given to make this toque doesn’t include a pom pom. Adjust your yarn accordingly.
Abbreviations
st – stitch
sts – stitches
sl – slip the stitch
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.
TBLP2tog – (Through the Back Loop, Purl 2 sts together) – Purl 2 together through the back loop from left to right.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
I do like fungi and I do like hats. So what better than to combine the 2 and make a hat with mushrooms! Is it to everyone’s taste? Heck, no. And I knew that when I designed it. And boy was it a challenge. It took me 9 complete hats to get the design to work and sit on the head right. It started as a single mushroom, smack dab in the front, but it just didn’t work no matter what I did. Now there are 7 toadstools all around the hat.
For this pattern, you’ll need to pull the stitches together so the mushroom stands out from the background. To do this, pass the yarn behind your work and catch it when knitting on the right side. It’s done the same way you do any colour work when knitting. The video has you pull it tighter for the gloves, but for the hat, how you normally do it will work.
The video is queued to the right spot for each row as you knit the mushrooms. I originally showed how to make the toadstools on gloves but kept the video general enough to apply to anything. You can watch the video by clicking the video below. It will automatically play from the start for the gloves with the intro.
I’ve made this hat to only fit adults as I got tired of making hats. I ran out of patience and desire to do the math and make the samples of smaller hats. If you want me to work up child sized versions, let me know. You can leave me a comment below.
If you would like to make a plain bucket hat that is designed to fit the whole family, be sure to check out this one. Knit flat with straight needles and 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, it works up super fast! Here’s the link to read that pattern – Knitted Bucket Hat for Children and Adults
For ease of knitting this hat, I generally used one colour for the mushrooms on my sample hat. There is nothing stopping you from making each mushroom unique with its individual coloured stem and cap. It would be a great way to use up some of those small leftovers of yarn that really aren’t good for much more than a single stripe on a scarf.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country –United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Stem Colour (SC): small amount. Each stem uses about 120 cm (47 inches)
Cap Colour (CC): approx. 30 g Each cap uses about 275 cm (108 inches)
1 set of 4 mm (US 6) single pointed knitting needles
1 set of 3.25 or 3.5 mm (US 3 or 4) single pointed knitting needles (optional)
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
21-22 inches (23-24 inches)
53.5 – 56 cm (57 – 61 cm)
Brim
With MC cast on 122 (130) sts with the 3.25 or 3.5 mm knitting needles. You can use the 4 mm needles but smaller needles will make a tighter brim edge.
Switch to the 4 mm (US 6) for the remainder of the pattern.
♥ Row 1: K across
Row 2: *K2 P2* Repeat from * to * until the last 2 sts. K2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ for a total of 8 rows
Row 9: K4 🍄 K2tog K6 Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 to the last 6 sts. K2tog K4 (107, 114 sts)
Row 10: K2 P2 🐿️ K1 P2 K2 P2 🐿️ Repeat from 🐿️ to 🐿️ to the last 5 sts. K1 P2 K2
Row 11: K across
Row 12: As row 10
Row 13: ♦ K2tog K5 ♦ Repeat to the last 2 sts. K2tog. (91, 97 sts)
Row 14: ♪ K1 P2 ♪ Repeat to the last st. K1
Mushroom Band or Crown
☼ Row 15: K across
Row 16: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time.
Row19: K5. With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ With MC K10 (11). With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 times more. With MC K5. (105, 111 sts)
Row 20: P5. With SC P5. ◊ With MC K10 (11). With SC P5.◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 5 times more. With MC P5.
Row 21: K5. With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.(91, 97 sts)
Row 22: P5. With SC P3. ☺ With MC P10 (11). With SC P3. ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 5 times more. With MC P5.
Row 23: K5. With SC K3. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC K3. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.
Row 24: As row 22
Row 25: K3. With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ With MC K6 (7). With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ Repeat from ₪ to ₪ 5 times more. With MC K3. ( 133, 139 sts)
Row 26: P3. With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † With MC P6 (7). With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † Repeat from † to † 5 times more. With MC P3. (119, 125 sts)
Row 27: K3. M1. ♫ With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. K6 (7). M1. With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 5 times more. With MC K3. (119, 125 sts)
Row 28: P4. With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ With MC P8 (9). With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 5 times more. With MC P4. (105, 111 sts)
Row 29: K4. M1. ♣ With CC TWK2tog K3 K2tog. With MC M1 K8 (9) M1. With CC TWK2tog With MC M1. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 times more. With MC K4. (105, 111 sts)
Row 30: With MC P across
✾ Row 31: K across
Row 32: P across ✾ Repeat from ✾ to ✾ 1 (2) times more.
Next row: K8 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (95, 100 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K7 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (85, 89 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K6 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (75, 78 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K5 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (65, 67 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K4 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (55, 56 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K3 K2tog Repeat from to to the last st. K5 (1). (45, 45 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K2 K2tog Repeat from to to the last st. K1. (34, 34 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K1 K2tog Repeat from to to the last st. K1. (23, 23 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K2tog across. K the last st. (12, 12 sts)
Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam and add embellishments to the mushrooms if desired. Work in all ends.Watch the video for help on finishing and catching any loose stitches. You can use this link – Finishing
How to Make the Dots (French Knots)
You can make the dots or you can do flecks on your mushroom caps. You can even leave the cap plain if you like. It’s up to you. To make the flecks, just go over a few stitches with a complimentary colour of yarn.
If you want to make the dots, they’re French knots, you can watch the video below.
Hints and Tips
This hat needs to be blocked, so to speak. To get the correct sizing at the end, it’s best to get the stitches to relax. You can do this by steaming the piece and gently stretching it over a bowl, mannequin head or even a Styrofoam ball. If you are able to, using the head of the intended wearer can also work.
The video showing how the knit the mushroom is very similar but not exactly the same. The stem is shorter than in the original mushroom in the video. It fits the hat better when done like this. Also, the mushroom cap is one row shorter. Because the stitches are stockinette on the right side, purling across on the wrong side with the main colour looks ok on the right side.
I suggest not keeping the lengths of the stem colour long like I did for the mushroom in the video (I also don’t include the french knots in the length required for the stems) There are 7 ends to contend with and can be a bit cumbersome to manage when trying to knit. It’s better to use a shorter length to knit the stem and come back with another, separate length of yarn to make the embellishments like the french knots or the flecks.
The lengths of yarn given for the stem and mushroom are approximate only. You may need more or less depending how much you need to wrap around your fingers for even tension.
Abbreviations
st – stitch
sts – stitches
sl – slip the stitch
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.
TBLP2tog – (Through the Back Loop, Purl 2 sts together) – Purl 2 together through the back loop from left to right.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Add a little forest magic to your wardrobe with these cozy mushroom fingerless gloves! Featuring a charming toadstool motif, this whimsical knitting pattern is perfect for fall walks, cottagecore vibes, or just showing off your love of fungi. Knit flat on two needles, it’s a fun project for anyone comfortable with the basics—and there’s a helpful step-by-step video tutorial to guide you through each row. Grab your yarn and let’s get a little spore-tacular!
If you stumbled upon this pattern but don’t know how to knit, have no fear! I have finished granny gloves available to purchase in my Etsy shop. Use this link to buy a pair 👉🏼 CUSTOM MADE Hand Knit Mushroom Granny Gloves
For this pattern, you’ll need to pull the stitches together so the mushroom stands out from the background. To do this, pass the yarn behind your work and catch it when knitting on the right side. It’s done the same way you do any colour work when knitting. Only with this, pull it snug – tighter than you normally would if making a flat colour motif. The video shows how to do this. Please watch them to make sure you are doing it correctly.
The video is queued to the right spot for each row as you knit the mushroom. I only added the video to the right hand. If you need to see how to make a stitch when making the left hand, you can easily go back to the same numbered row in the right hand.
If you would like to have a matching warm and cozy set, I wrote a pattern for a delightful mushroom beanie. It’s the perfect addition to your winter knitted collection. Tap the photo or this link for the pattern
If you have never made fingerless gloves from the fingers to the cuff, you may want to practice with the basic pattern first. If you would like to, clickthis linkor tap the photo.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop,Ravelry, LoveCrafts,Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only. Links for this coming soon!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
1 set of single pointed knitting needles – See notes on sizing for knitting needles required.
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) single pointed needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) single pointed needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
RIGHT Hand
With MC, cast on 34.
Row 1: With MC (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 4 rows.
Row 5 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts. K20. (47 sts) Click this link if you need help with casting on. For this pattern, only cast on 13 sts.
Row 14: Knit across.
Row 15: K35. With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1,Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. With MC K9. (49 st)
Row 16: K9. With SC P5. With MC K35.
Row 17: K14 K2tog K9. K2tog K8. With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. With MC K9. (45 sts)
Row 18: K9. With SC P3. With MC K33.
Row 19: K33. With SC K3. With MC K9.
Row 20: As row 18.
Row 21: K14. K2tog K7 K2tog K8. With SC K3. With MC K9. (43 sts)
Row 22: K9. With SC P3. With MC K31.
Row 23: K29. With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. With MC K7. (49 sts)
Row 24: K7. With CC. P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. With MC K29. (47 sts)
Row 25: K14. K2tog K5 K2tog K6. With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC K7. (43 sts)
Row 26: K7. With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. With MC K27. (41 sts)
Row 27: K26 M1 K1. With CC TWK2tog K3 K2tog. With MC K1 M1 K6. (41 sts)
Row 28: K8. With CC P5.With MC K28.
Row 29: K14 K2tog K3 K2tog K20. (39) sts
Row 30 – 32: Knit across.
Row 33: K14 K2tog K1 K2tog K20. (37 sts)
Row 34 – 36: Knit across.
*Row 37: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 38: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*
Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.
Cast off.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
Watch the video below for help on finishing and catching any loose stitches.
Row 1: With MC (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 4 rows.
Row 5 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K20 Cast on 13 sts. K14. (47 sts)
Row 14: Knit across.
Row 15: K9. With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1,Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. With MC K35. (49 st)
Row 16: K35. With SC P5. With MC K9.
Row 17: K9. With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. With MC K8 K2tog K9 K2tog K14. (45 sts)
Row 18: K33. With SC P3. With MC K9.
Row 19: K9. With SC K3. With MC K33.
Row 20: As row 18.
Row 21: K9. With SC K3. With MC K8 K2tog K7 K2tog K14. (43 sts)
Row 22: K31. With SC P3. With MC K9.
Row 23: K7. With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. With MC K29. (49 sts)
Row 24: K29. With CC. P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. With MC K7. (47 sts)
Row 25: K7. With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC K6 K2tog K5 K2tog K14. (43 sts)
Row 26: K27. With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. With MC K7. (41 sts)
Row 27: K6 M1 K1. With CC TWK2tog K3 K2tog. With MC K1 M1 K26. (41 sts)
Row 28: K28. With CC P5.With MC K8.
Row 29: K20 K2tog K3 K2tog K14. (39) sts
Row 30 – 32: Knit across.
Row 33: K20 K2tog K1 K2tog K14. (37 sts)
Row 34 – 36: Knit across
*Row 37: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 38: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*
Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.
Cast off.
Make the Thumb
Make the thumb like you did for the right hand
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
How to Make the Dots (French Knots)
If you need tips on finishing the glove and working in the ends, that video is at the end of the RIGHT hand.
Abbreviations
st – stitch
sts – stitches
sl – slip the stitch
K – knit
P – purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
P2tog – purl 2 stitches together
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.
TBLP2tog – (Through the Back Loop, Purl 2 sts together) – Purl 2 together through the back loop from left to right.
I’ve been wanting to design a super simple mitten pattern for a while now—something warm, easy to make, and knit flat on two needles. And here it is! These adult-sized mittens are thick, cozy, and knit up surprisingly fast. Whether you’re newer to knitting or just want a no-fuss project to whip up in an evening or two, this free mitten pattern is a great one to try.
They’re available in sizes small to extra-large, so you can make a pair for just about anyone. I used basic stitches and construction, and I’ve included lots of helpful how-to videos in the Abbreviations section if you have difficulty with any of the knitting techniques. If you’re looking for an easy knitting pattern for mittens that doesn’t require double-pointed needles, I think you’ll love how simple (and warm!) these turn out.
And if you would like to make a pair that’s a little fancier, I also have the same mittens, but made with an owl motif on the back of the hand. It’s also free to read on my website. You can read it here – Extra Thick Owl Mitts. They are also knit flat on 2 needles and include videos to help you along. When you click the link or photo, a new window opens. You won’t lose this page.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Things You Need
You can make the mittens with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, or one strand of super bulky yarn. Take your pick. But please note, you don’t need both. Choose one or the other.
Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). You’ll have leftover yarn.
or
Super Bulky yarn – (186 yards/170 m) like Bernat or Lion brand. Not all super bulky yarn is as thick as others. A Bulkyyarn may also work if it’s on the thicker side. As long as your gauge is the same your sizing will be accurate.
5 mm (8 US) single point needles
Tapestry needle – to sew seams and work in ends
Sizing
My standard for sizing was my and my son’s hands and designed the knitting pattern to fit us comfortably. Our hands are fairly standard in size and the measurements I used for the mitten sizes are similar to those used for rubber glove sizing. I’ve included a infographic to give you an idea of the measurements of the hands.You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge and accurate sizing.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles
13 stitches every 4 inches (10 cm)
20 rows every 4 inches (10 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S (M, L, XL)
** If you need help with any stitch or technique,
there are video links at the end of the pattern in the Abbreviations section to help you **
Left Hand
Cast on 24 (26, 26, 28)
Row 1-12: ◊K1 P1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ across.
Row 13: K1 (2, 2, 3) INC * K6 INC * Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K the
** Stop here if making the EXTRA LARGE size mitten **
Go to the row marked with a ✿
Continue with ✚Row 35 for MEDIUM and LARGE
✚ Row 35: K17 Pass the next 13 sts onto your st holder. K12. (29 sts)
Row 36: P12 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P17 (30 sts)
** Stop here if making the MEDIUM and LARGE size mitten **
Go to the row marked with a ♦
Continue here for XL only
✿ Row 35: K18 M1 K13 M1 K3. (46 sts)
Row 36: P across
Row 37: K18 Pass the next 15 sts onto your st holder. K13 (31 sts)
Row 38: P13 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P18 (32 sts)
Go to the row marked with a ♦
Starting the Finger Cap of the Mitt
You transferred all the stitches for the thumb onto your stitch holder for all sizes. Now to make the portion that covers your fingers.
♦ Next row: K across
Next row: P across ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ for a total of 22 (24, 26, 28) rows.
Next row: K2tog across. (14, 15, 15, 16 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K2tog across. Knit the remaining single st for M and L sizes. (7, 8, 8, 8 sts)
Next row: P across. Break yarn leaving about a foot of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.
Thumb
Pick up the 11 (13, 13, 15) sts from the st holder and put them on you knitting needle.
▲ Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across ▲ Repeat for ▲ to ▲ for a total of 8 (10, 12, 12) rows.
Next row: K2tog across. K the last st. (6, 7, 7, 8 sts)
Next row: P across. Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.
Hints and Tips
Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.
If you find the fingers a little short, you can make extra rows after the thumb. They are a little longer than I would make for myself, but my fingers are a bit stubby. They should fit the majority of people as written.
I’ve written the pattern to include 12 rows for the cuff regardless of size. Make it longer or shorter as you see fit. You may want it longer if the wearer prefers a longer cuff to tuck into their sleeve.
Try mixing mixing your strands of worsted weight yarn instead of using one colour for both balls. You could get some neat effects using a variegated yarn and a solid colour of yarn.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1
If you have never used a stitch holder before, here’s how you hold the stitches so you can make the thumb later. Watch this video on How to Use a Stitch Holder
If you aren’t sure how to draw the yarn through at the end of the fingers and thumbs, it’s pretty simple. You’re gathering the stitches together. Watch this video on How to Gather Stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
This crocheted jar or pot with a lid is a fantastic way to use up those extra bits of yarn from other projects. It’s a unique and versatile item that’s perfect for selling at craft fairs or gifting to friends and family. The finished jar can hold small trinkets, potpourri, loose change, cotton balls, or even hide your stash of secret snacks! The crocheted jars add a touch of handmade charm to any space. With endless possibilities for color combinations and personalization, you can easily tailor each jar to suit different styles and occasions.
The pattern includes detailed instructions for making the jar, lid, and the decorative flower and leaf elements. You can mix and match colors or experiment with different yarn textures to create one-of-a-kind designs. Add a pop of color with bright flowers or keep it subtle with neutral tones—either way, the result is a beautiful, functional piece that showcases your crochet skills. Whether you’re looking for a quick, creative project or something special to add to your craft table, this pattern is a must-try!
I am not including the patterns for the leaf or the flower on this page as it’s already very long. You can use either of the buttons below to read those patterns. Clicking either button opens a new page. You won’t lose this one.
The printable version of this pattern is a member exclusive ONLY! It is only available to download and print if you are a member on Buy Me a Coffee or you are subscriber on my Facebook page. The entire pattern for the jar, lid, leaves and flower are all free to read on this website and are ad-supported. You can see the pattern in my Buy Me A Coffee shop here: Stash-Busting Crochet Jar and Lid with Flowers and Leaves – Member Pattern It’s set at a ridiculous price but free for all monthly of yearly members.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn (less than a standard ball)
Size E/ 4 (3.5 mm) to size C/2 (2.5 mm) crochet hook (for 1 stand of yarn)
Size G/6 (4.25 mm) or smaller crochet hook (for 2 stands of yarn). If you can’t find a 4.25 mm hook and 4.5 will do. It’s not that much bigger.
Tapestry needle
Stitch marker (optional)
Gauge
It isn’t really important with this project. Make sure to maintain tension throughout the project so the lid fits correctly. See the Hints and Tips section for more information on hook size.
The Pot or Jar
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.
Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)
Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (24 sts)
Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (30 sts)
Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (36 sts)
Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (42 sts)
Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)
Round 8: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (63 sts)
Round 9: Sc around in the back loop.
Round 10: Sc around.
Round 11: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (70 sts)
Round 12-15: Sc around.
Round 16: *8sc. Sc2tog over the next 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (63 sts)
Round 17: Sc around.
Round 18: *7sc. Sc2tog over the next 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (56 sts)
Round 19: Sc around.
Round 20: *6sc. Sc2tog over the next 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (49 sts)
Round 21-25: Sc around. Sl st in next st. Break yarn. Work in ends.
The Lid
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.
Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)
Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (24 sts)
Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (30 sts)
Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (36 sts)
Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (42 sts)
Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)
Round 8: Sc around in the back loop.
Round 9: *16sc. Sc2tog * Repeat from* to * 2 times more. (51 sts)
Round 10-11: Sc around. Sl st in next st. Break yarn. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
The tighter your stitches the more solid and stiffer the fabric you create. I suggest that you use the smallest hook you can use comfortably to make the pot and lid. I used as small as a 2.5 mm hook but it was TIGHT. I don’t think I’d go any smaller than this for a single strand of worsted weight yarn. 4.25 was a great size for the larger, double strand pot.
Maintaining tension is very important for this project! The lid is designed to be only slightly larger than the top of the pot. If your tension suddenly are tighter or more loose when making the lid, it won’t fit.
Make sure the lid and pot are made with the same size hook and thickness of yarn. The lid won’t fit otherwise. It’s made to be snug and if your yarn is thinner or your tension os off, it won’t fit correctly.
If you want larger and smaller flowers and leaves, use different sized hooks. Large hook equals a larger flower and leaf. The same holds true for the pot and lid. I wouldn’t go larger than a 3.5 mm hook. The stitches need to be tight enough to hold their shape.
You can personalize the pot and lid anyway you like. Embroider a pattern on it, a name, maybe flowers. There are many ideas and options that you can do to personalize your piece. It’s really up to you and your creativity.
You can make stripes by changing colours of yarn you use. This would be a great way to use up the little leftover bits of yarn. Make sure the thicknesses are yarn are the same. Not all brands are as thick as others. I changed to yellow for rounds 10-11 for the lid on the mid-sized pot. I changed to white from rounds 8-11 for the largest pot.
The size of your pot is determined by the size and thickness of your yarn. All the pots and lids are made with the same pattern. All that I changed for the largest pot, was 2 strands of yarn and a size 4.25 mm hook. The mid-size version (light beige with yellow on the rim) was done with a 3.5 mm hook, the smallest (ecru with flecks) with a 2.5 mm hook. Both were done with one strand of yarn.
Shape the final jar with your hand and fingers. It will hold its shape as you press and stretch it in the round shape you want. It acts sort of like clay to a certain extent.
If your lid is too small you can stretch and form it a bit with your hands. Grab the edges of the either side of the lid with your fingers and pull apart. Turn it a 1/8th of a turn and pull it apart again. Keep moving around like this until it’s big enough to fit the top of the pot.
To make the jar sit flat and the top level, place it on top of a table and press down a bit.
If you want a tiny pot, you could use crochet cotton thread instead of yarn. You could also use thinner yarn for smaller pots. I haven’t done this, but you’ll need to play around with hook size to get a tight gauge.
This crochet leaf pattern was created as an accent to complement the flowers in myCrochet Jar with Lid Pattern. On their own, the leaves aren’t meant to stand out—I designed them to serve as subtle fillers that enhance the flowers and draw attention to the main design.
These leaves are a smaller adaptation of the original pattern I designed for my Sun Hat. Since both the original leaf and flower were too large for the jar lid, I did a simple redesign and came up with this perfectly sized version.
This pattern isn’t available alone as a downloadable and printable PDF. It will be included with the Crochet Jar with Lid Pattern along with the flower. It was easier to divide the jar, flower and leaf into separate pages on the website.
If you know someone you think would like this post, by all means, share it! The more eyeballs on my work the better. If you are enjoying the free patterns, this is a great way to support my work. You can also Buy Me A Coffee or check out the other options when you check out the Help Support My Workpage. If you’re looking for something new to share with your friends on your website or on social media, these links will help you do it.
I used the smallest hook to make the smaller leaf, the largest for the big leaf.
Gauge
It isn’t really important with this project. Make sure to maintain tension throughout the project so the lid fits correctly. See the Hints and Tips section for more information on hook size.
I also made a how-to video showing all the steps and stitches needed to make the leaf. If you are having trouble with any part, it’s all here 😊
Leaf
Please note: The rounds end in various places on the bottom of the leaf. Regardless, the stitch counts work.
With ONE strand of worsted weight yarn and hook size of your choice.
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 11sc in 2nd chain from hook. Do NOT join. Begin to work in the round.
Round 2: In the 1st sc from the last round, sc. 2sc in the next st. In the next st, sc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, dc. 2dc in the next 2 sts. In the next st, dc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, sc. 2sc in the next st. Sc.
Round 3: *2sc in the next st, sc* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. In the next st, sc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, dc. 2dc in the next st. In the next st, dc, trc. Ch 2, sl st in the 2nd chain from hook (picot made). In the next st, trc, dc. 2dc in the next st. In the next st, dc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, sc. *Sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. Sl st in next st. Break yarn. Work in the ends and sew into place.
Add extra embroidered details to the leaves as you see fit. Maybe some extra veining lines or stitches around the edge in a slightly darker shade? It really is up to you.
I prefer to make at least 2 leaves to fill in behind the flowers. It makes a group of 3 which always balances out itself. Five is also a good number to aim for btw. If you want to make a bit more pizzaz to the combo, use differnt shades of green. To make them different sizes, use a larger hook for one and smaller hook for the other.
As much as I wanted to avoid pressing anything, the leaves also may need to be pressed to have them lie flat. Be sure to do a test swatch BEFORE you press anything. Acrylic is notorious for melting and losing all constructive properties when pressed. It melts to give a flat, melted look. Press with your iron at the lowest setting possible. Press with a damp cloth between the iron and the leaf. Iron the leaves from the BACK only!
Click here (or the photo) to read the pattern to make the flower
Abbreviations
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet.
dc – double crochet.
tr – treble crochet. Wrap the thread 2 times around the hook.
Nice idea, but what can I do with a crocheted flower, you may be asking yourself? Well, you can do a lot with them actually. In particular, I designed this pattern to be the perfect size to be a ring. Make a matching set and you have a pair of earrings. Sew the flowers together and you can make a necklace or choker. Add them as an embellishment on one of my existing crochet bracelet patterns. You can see those by click these links: Quick and Easy Bracelet, Fans Bracelet, andWaves Bracelet or any pic below. If you’d like to add leaves, I’ve included the link to that too.
And now …Crochet a Pot With a Lid. If you come up with more ideas, I loved to read about them in my comment section below.
Click any pic for the FREE pattern
I have been designing crochet flowers for number of years but never really got around to publishing any of them to share. Most are done on the fly, free from crochet if you will, with more and more detail being added to each time I make a new crochet flower.
Flowers made to rings
Sunflower Ring
Same rings different angle
Sorry for the wrinkly fingers.
More crochet flower rings.
Crochet sunflower ring
I have shared a few of my flower designs, in particular my Friendship and Flower Bracelet crochet pattern that has been relatively popular. Mostly I made flowers to add to my art projects like you can see here.
Depending on the response to this, my first stand alone crochet flower pattern, I may add the others.
While I wouldn’t consider this project crochet for beginners, if you know your basic crochet stitches, this is quick and fairly easy to make. Originally when I designed this I was aiming for a crochet sunflower. While it is a bit small to be a sunflower, It does have a sunflower type feel to it. At least I feel it does. Depending on your colour selections, you really can make this be any sort of generic “crochet flower”.
But without further ado, except for the handy share icons, here is how to crochet a flower step by step and what you will need.
Things You Will Need
Crochet cotton thread (size 10) – 2 colours of your choice
Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook
Needle to sew in the ends and attach to ring base
Ring base (I prefer the kind that is pictured here. It gives more security when you tie it on and fits any size finger.)
If you are making this flower to go on the Pot and Lid
Size E/ 4 (3.5 mm) to size C/2 (2.5 mm) crochet hook (the size of the hook changes the size of the flower)
Worsted weight yarn – 2 colours of your choice)
Tapestry needle to sew in the ends and attach to lid.
I used the smallest size hook for the blue flower, the largest hook for the purple.
Crocheting the Flower
With the centre colour crochet thread
Ch 2 (make the first loop slightly larger so you can fit in the sc coming up).
Round 1: 9 sc in 2nd ch from the hook. Join with sl st in the top of the first sc (not the ch. Ignore it. It’ll be fine. Trust me.)
Round 2: Ch 2. *(Sc, ch 1)* in the next sc of previous round. Repeat from * to * in each sc around. Join in the first ch 1 of first ch 2. Break thread.
Round 3: Join petal colour thread in any ch 1 space. Ch 2, tr (wrap thread 2 times around hook), tr +1 (wrap thread 3 times around hook), tr, dc. Ch 1. Turn. Join with sl st to top of ch 2. Ch 2. *In next ch 1 space, dc, tr , tr +1 , tr, dc. Ch 1. Turn. Join with sl st to top of the first dc. Ch 2.* Repeat around. Join with a sl st to the sl st at the top of the ch 2 of first petal made. Break thread.
Work in the ends. Sew the flower to the ring base.
When starting your flower, leave a generous tail when you make your original ch 2. You can use this thread to sew the flower to the ring.
Hold your thread or yarn to the back of your work when making the petals if you can. If you catch the thread or yarn when making a few stitches, it will stay in place without any extra sewing. (I really need to show how to do this with some photos at some point. It’s a huge time saver.)
If you can’t find the shade of crochet cotton thread that you want, you’ll be able to find the embroidery thread (aka embroidery floss) that is the correct colour. For the life of me I can’t find any brown crochet cotton thread locally so I decided to use embroidery thread instead. It worked great! It’s actually the centre of the crochet sunflower. Couldn’t tell could you ?. You will have to separate 2 or 3 threads from the skein to acquire the same thickness as the crochet cotton thread. I found 2 pulled out worked best but it may be different depending on what embroidery thread you’re using.
You can make as many petals on the flowers as you like. Either add more original sc at the beginning and corresponding number of sc, ch 1 on the second row. Be carful though. Too many and the flower won’t lie flat. Not enough and it will look less full and not be enough to go around.
If you ended up with more or less petals than 9, technically, you made it wrong. It doesn’t really matter. But if you’re trying to make a product to sell or make a matching set for earrings or a choker, make sure you do it the same way every time. You want to be consistent. To get 9 ch 1 spaces exactly each time, I count the number of ch 1’s I make INCLUDING the first ch 1 at the start of row 2 (the first ch of the ch 2 is really a sc. The 2nd ch is creating the ch 1 space), then I join in the first ch 1 space I made.
You can adjust the size of the petals by changing up the stitches used to make them. Smaller stitch combo’s such as sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc in each ch 1 space will make it smaller. Tr, tr +1, (3 times around hook), dtr (4 times around the hook) tr tr, tr can give some interesting effects.
I prefer the ring type that I’ve shown in the affiliate link (yes, I’ll make a bit of money from the sale) but you may prefer something else. I’ve tried a variety of glues and double sided tape (even professional grade) and none of the products worked to my satisfaction in holding the final crochet flower to the ring base. I found sewing it on by passing the thread through the middle hole and around the sides held it securely. And I could also find these bases easily at my local big box craft store. ?
Crochet flower sewn to the ring.
I never ironed my crochet flower before sewing it to the base. It wouldn’t hurt but it’s a very stitch dense item and I don’t think it would really do much to the finished crochet flower.
Abbreviations
Sl st – slip stitch
Ch – chain
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet. Wrap the thread 1 time around the hook.
tr – treble crochet. Wrap the thread 2 times around the hook.
tr +1 – treble crochet plus one additional thread wrap. Or, wrap the thread 3 times around the hook. (This isn’t a standard stitch so I just made up the most logical name and abbreviation).
Learn to knit comfy, cozy cabled slippers. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for children from a small size 3 to large 3, and a woman’s and man’s size 4 to 12. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.
If you are newer to knitting and have never done cables before, I’ll show you how. In the Abbreviations section at the end of this pattern, I’ve embedded videos that show you how easy it is to do it. Please note though, in this pattern, one of the first I ever wrote, I refer to the cable as C2F (cable 2 forward) and C2B (cable 2 back). I still refer to it as such in this pattern, though now I refer to it as C4F (cable 4 forward) and C4B (cable 4 back) in my new patterns. It means the same thing. The first refers to the number of stitches you’re pulling forward or back. The later refers to the total number of stitches being used by the cable. People complain about both versions of the terminology so I add this little explanation now 😊
Not wanting to be online all the time? You can also download the ad free version of this pattern, for a small fee, here – How to Knit Cable Slippers and in my Etsy shop.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Things you will need:
If you are having a difficult time locating the supplies you need to make these slippers, click any link below to have it mail right to your door.
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).
Size 4.5 (US size 7) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.
Cable knitting needle
Darning needle to sew the seams and work in the ends.
Gauge:
14 rows stockinette = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!
Children’s Sizes 3 – 3
Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 3-4 (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3)
Next row: K2tog to the end of the row. If you have an extra stitch at the end of the row, knit it.
Next row: Knit
Pull yarn through.
Form Heel:
With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.
Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.
Row 4: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)
Row 5 – 7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)
Row 9 – 11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)
Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.
Row 16: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)
Row 17 – 19: Knit across.
Bind off.
When shaping the toe, once completed the row, you should have 2 knit stitches before the purl of the cable at the beginning of the row and 2 stitches after the last purl after the cable at the end of the row regardless of the size. Depending on the size you either knit 2 stitches together twice or knit two stitches together once and knit the one remaining stitch. Regardless of size this gives the two stitches.
Knit the last stitch for women’s sizes 8-9 and 10-11 and the men’s sizes 7-8 and 9-10 only.
Next row: Knit across.
Pull yarn through.
Form Heel:
With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches. This video will help you make it if you’re not sure.
Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.
Row 4: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)
Row 5 – 7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)
Row 9 – 11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)
Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.
Row 16: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)
Row 17 – 19 : Knit across.
Row 20: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)
Row 21 – 23 : Knit across.
Row 24: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)
Row 25 – 27: Knit across.
Bind off.
Hints and tips:
This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurements such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.
The children’s slipper is made with a smaller cable than the adult sizes. It uses C1F and C1B to allow for the smaller foot size.
Abbreviations:
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
sts – stitches
SL 1 – Slip 1 stitch off knit ways
PSSO – Pass the slipped stitch over
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess. Regardless, there are videos below to show you how to do it.
I’m linking the videos to the C2B and C2F to the newer videos I have for the C4F C4B. THEY ARE THE SAME STITCH I’m choosing to link to the newer videos because the old ones are exactly that – old. The new ones are much better and shot in higher definition.
C1F – Cable 1 forward (this is done the same way as the C2F, but instead of knitting and pulling forward 2 stitches, only knit and pull one stitch forward). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the front of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle. There is a video further down this page to help.
C1B – Cable 1 backward (this is done the same way as the C2B, but instead of knitting and pulling of 2 stitches to the back of your work, only knit and pull one stitch back). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle. There is a video further down this page to help.
C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. The video is called C4F but it is the same as C2F.
C2B – Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. The video is called C4B but it is the same as C2B.
This pattern gives you permission to sell or give away anything that you make with this pattern. It does NOT give you permission to give away, reproduce in any form or sell this pattern.
Whooo’s ready to knit some cozy mittens? These extra-thick owl mitts are the perfect project to keep your hands warm and your knitting fun! Knit flat on straight needles, with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or super bulky yarn, they’re a fast and easy make, even if you’re newer to knitting. The adorable owl motif adds a charming touch, while the simple construction makes them great for new knitters looking to tackle their first mitten project. Whether you’re making a pair for yourself or as a thoughtful gift, these mitts will fly off your needles in no time!
These owl mitts are designed to fit adult hands from small to large, so you can make a pair for just about anyone. Using super bulky yarn, they knit up quickly and create an extra-thick, cozy fabric that’s perfect for chilly weather. Plus, I’ve included helpful videos to guide you through making the owl motif, so even if you’re new to knitting with decorative details, you’ll have all the support you need to bring these charming mitts to life!
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The downloads and paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Things You Need
You can make the mittenss with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, or one strand of super bulky yarn. Take your pick. But please note, you don’t need both. Choose one or the other.
Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). You’ll have leftover yarn.
or
Super Bulky yarn – (186 yards/170 m) like Bernat or Lion brand. Not all super bulky yarn is as thick as others. A Bulky yarn may also work if it’s on the thicker side. As long as your gauge is the same your sizing will be accurate.
5.5 mm (9 US) Small/Medium single point needles
or
6 mm (10 US) Large single point needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle – to sew seams and work in ends
Sizing
Like my fingerless gloves I’ve designed, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the mitten.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized mitt of this pattern fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge and accurate sizing.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small/Medium (this size will fit most hands comfortably)
Size 5.5 mm (US size 9) single pointed needles
13 stitches every 4 inches (10 cm)
22 rows every 4 inches (10 cm)
Large
Size 6 mm (US size 10) single pointed needles
12 stitches every 4 inches (10 cm)
18 rows every 4 inches (10 cm)
Choose Your Cuff
You have a choice of cuff to make with this mitten pattern. If you prefer a looser cuff with a more solid feel, you can make the first version. If you prefer a tighter, ribbed cuff you can follow the instructions for the K1 P1 version for 12 rows. Choose one or the other. Don’t do both. Once you choose your cuff, move on to row 13.
** If you need any help with any stitch or technique, there are videos at the end of the pattern to help you. **
Row 2: K1 P2 across. K last st * Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.
OR (choose the same as you did for the left hand)
If you would prefer a ribbed cuff, make the following for the 12 rows:
Row 1-12: ◊K1 P1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ across.
♠ Row 13: K across
Row 14: P across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ one more time.
Row 17: K16 M1 K1 M1 K11 (30 sts)
Row 18: P across
Row 19: K across
Row 20: P11 PM1 P3 PM1 P16 (32 sts)
Row 21: K across
Row 22: P across
Row 23: K16 M1 K5 M1 K11 (34 sts)
Row 24: P21 K1 P8 K1 P3
Row 25: K3 P1 C4F C4B P1 K21
Row 26: P11 PM1 P7 PM1 P3 K1 P8 K1 P3 (36 sts)
Row 27: K3 P1 K8 P1 K23
Row 28: P23 K1 P8 K1 P3
Row 29: K3 P1 K8 P1 K3 M1 K9 M1 K11 (38 sts)
Row 30: P25 K1 P8 K1 P3
Row 31: K3 P1 K8 P1 K25
Row 32: P25 K1 P8 K1 P3
Row 33: K3 P1 C4F C4B P1 K3 Pass the next 11 sts onto your st holder. K11 (27 sts)
Row 34: P11 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P3 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P3 (28 sts)
Row 35: K3 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K15
Row 36: P15 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P3
Row 37: As row 35
Row 38: As row 36
Row 39: As row 35
Row 40: As row 36
Row 41: As row 35
Row 42: As row 36
Row 43: K3 P1 C4F C4B P1 K15
Row 44: P15 K10 P3
♦ Row 45: K across
Row 46: P across ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ for a total of 12 rows.
Row 59: K2tog across (14 sts)
Row 60: P across
Row 61: K2tog across (7 sts)
Row 62: P across. Break yarn leaving about a foot of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.
Thumb
Pick up the 11 sts from the st holder and put them on you knitting needle.
▲ Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across ▲ Repeat for ▲ to ▲ for a total of 10 rows.
Row 11: K2tog across. K the last st.
Row 12: P across. Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.
Hints and Tips
Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.
If you find the fingers a little short, you can make extra rows after the owl. The pattern has 12 rows. They are a little longer than I would make for myself, but my fingers are a bit stubby. They should fit the majority of people as written.
Try mixing a tweed yarn with a plain yarn for an interesting effect. I made the lighter owl with the specks using a tweed yarn and a beige yarn; both worsted weight. Any thing with a subtle fleck of colour will work. The pink/red owl is a bulky yarn with a single ply of white worked into the single large strand. It may be hard to make out the owl if you use a variegated yarn.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
st – stitch
sts – stitches
k2tog – knit 2 together
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1
If you need some help with how to use a stitch holder when making the thumb, I have a video for that too 😊
If you aren’t sure how to draw the yarn through at the end of the fingers and thumbs, it’s pretty simple. You’re gathering the stitches together. Watch this video on How to Gather Stitches.
Are you just learning to knit? Tired of making dishcloths and scarves and want to make something awesome? Here is something that will make you look like a pro when it comes to knitting. A total brag-worthy design that any knitting newbie can make.
I’ve written a bunch of beginner patterns for slippers, but never for fingerless gloves. It was a common request, but for some reason, I never felt compelled to do so. After a bit of false starts and redesigns, I’ve finally come up with a fingerless glove pattern that I am happy with. I’ve kept the seams to a minimum and placed the seam along the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb. If you’re not a fan of seams my other fingerless gloves and mitts knitted on dpn can be found here – Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS, How to Knit Texting Mittens, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves and How to Knit Flip Mitts.
I’ve also jazzed up this basic design a bit. If you want to knit owl gloves flat on 2 needles just like this pattern is, You can use this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to read the free knitting pattern online. I also made another variation of this pattern. This time it’s for a pair with a butterfly on the back of the hand – Butterfly Fingerless Gloves – Easy Knit Flat Fingerless Mitts Pattern. The video how’s you how to make the 🦋 butterfly.
These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches.
And finally, after much procrastinating, the complete how-to video is done! I even show how to sew up the seams and work in the ends. I know there have been a few of you out there that don’t like how their seams turn out. This is how I make mine flat and even.
I’ve also written the pattern to fit different sizes – small, medium and large. Once again I’ll use the analogy of what fits my hand. I wear a medium rubber glove and the medium size fits my hand perfectly. I wash dishes and scrub my toilets. I wear gloves when I do. If you never wear rubber or latex gloves, this won’t make any sense to you, I guess. I’m only saying this because I have had complaints about my sizing references. I don’t live in a gloveless kind of world but I’m glad some people do. It always amazes me what some “Karens” feel the need to bitch about ? If you want to go to a specific size you can try these links. If I’ve done my code correctly, it should take you to the right point on the webpage:
I’ve made a PDF download for this pattern. I didn’t think it was going to be this long until I wrote it out. I made the decision to write each size and hand out separately to make it even easier for the new knitters out there who want to give this pattern a go. And btw, you can totally do it! To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. Available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Gauge
This is important to follow for correct sizing.
2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts
2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows
If You Need Help with the M1 or P1
Scroll down to the end of the page to watch quick how-to videos showing how to do these simple stitches. There’s a video showing how to use a stitch holder too!
Things You Need:
Worsted weight yarn – one regular ball will be more than enough
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Now that you know you can make fingerless gloves, why not try a winter hat or beanie? Or if you’re like me, you call it a toque. 😊 You can watch the how to video below. and read the pattern for FREE right here on the website too! Just click the button…
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.
The purple fingerless mitts have 60 rows total between the garter stitch cuff and the start of the thumb gusset (Row 15 – 22). I don’t think I would increase much further than that. The glove itself isn’t very stretchy and won’t fit further up the forearm. Too much bunching may also make the glove push its way further down and off the fingers.
I used some self-striping yarn to make these. Not all striping yarn is created equal. Some of them are designed to stripe for larger projects and don’t really work for smaller projects like this. Though with saying that, you could always cut the yarn and start a new colour where you choose. You will have more ends to deal with, but I have a post that shows you How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. ?? This link will take you right there.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.
How to make one or M1 – Increase between stitches.
PM1- Make one (purl wise). Pick up the stitch as you did for M1, but purl the stitch as you regularly would. You can watch the video below.
And for those of you who are unsure of how to use a stitch holder, I made a quick little video that shows you how to do it without cutting the yarn. It’s a time saver for sure. No one likes working in ends if they can avoid it.
Looking for a knitting pattern to make cozy hand-knit house slippers that actually stay on your feet? These handmade slippers are easy and quick to make, perfect for beginners who want a simple hand-knitting project with great results. Designed with a unique tie-up feature, they hug your feet for a snug, secure fit—no more slipping off while you walk! Whether you’re knitting for yourself or making a thoughtful gift, this pattern works up fast and can be customized with your favorite colors. Grab your needles and let’s get started!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
1 MAIN colour of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
1 COMPLIMENTARY colours of worsted weight yarn for the tie (optional).
1 set of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. A new page will open so you won’t lose this one.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 18 sts
4” = 36 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8,9-10, 11-12)
The Pattern
Cast on 41(43, 47, 49)
Ϫ Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across
Repeat form Ϫ to Ϫ for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K2 (3, 5, 5). ▲Cast off one stitch, K1▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ 4 times more. Cast off one stitch, K4 (4, 4, 6) ▲Cast off one stitch, K1▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ 4 times more. Cast off one stitch. K1 (2, 4, 4). (29, 31, 35, 37 sts. Problem with the st count? Go to Hints and Tips section for details.)
Cast off as you normally would
Space left from casting off the single st.
This is the smallest size with cast off spaces.
Larger sizes have more sts at the end and in the middle.
Row 8: P2 (3, 5, 5). ◊ Cast on one stitch, P2 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 4 times more. Cast on one stitch,
P5 (5, 5, 7). ◊ Cast on one stitch, P2 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 4 times more. Cast on one stitch. P2 (3, 5, 5). (41, 43, 47, 49 sts)
Flip the work with the RIGHT side facing you.
Cast on as you normally would.Stitch cast on.
Flip your work to the WRONG side and continue with the pattern.
Lace up holes made and back to original number of sts cast on.
Row 16: K26 (27, 29, 32) ♫ P1 M1 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 3 more times P1 K26 (27, 29, 32). (61, 63, 67, 73 sts)
Row 17: K across
Row 18: K26 (27, 29, 32) ◘ P1 INC ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 3 more times P1 K26 (27, 29, 32). (65, 67, 71, 77 sts)
Row 19: K across
Row 20: K26 (27, 29, 32) ☼ P1 K2 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 3 times more P1 K26 (27, 29, 32).
Row 21: K27 (28, 30, 33) ♠ INC, K2♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 3 more times. K26 (27, 29, 32). (69, 71, 75, 81 sts)
Row 22: K26 (27, 29, 32) □ P1 K3 □ Repeat from □ to □ 3 times more P1 K26 (27, 29, 32).
Row 23: K across
Row 24: As row 22.
Row 25: K27 (28, 30, 33) ☺ K, INC, K2☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 3 more times. K26 (27, 29, 32). (73, 75, 79, 85 sts)
Row 26: K26 (27, 29, 32) ♣ P1 K4 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 3 times more P1 K26 (27, 29, 32).
Row 27: K across.
Row 28: As row 26
Row 29: K27 (28, 30, 33) ♪ K, INC, K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times. K26 (27, 29, 32) . (77, 79, 83, 89 sts)
Row 30: K26 (27, 29, 32) ♯ P1 K5 ♯ Repeat from ♯ to ♯ 3 times more P1 K26 (27, 29, 32) .
For Women’s sizes 6-7 and men’s 6
Row 31: Knit across
Row 32: Cast off 36 sts. K4. Cast off 36 sts.
There are 5 sts remaining on your needle.
Continue on to knit the Sole
For Women’s sizes 8-9 and Men’s size 7-8
Row 31: K28, ♪ K2, INC, K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times. K27. (83 sts)
Row 32: K27 # P1 K6 # Repeat from ♯ to ♯ 3 times more P1 K27.
Row 33: K across
Row 34: Cast off 39 sts. K4. Cast off 39 sts.
There are 5 sts remaining on your needle.
Continue on to knit the Sole
For Women’s size (10-11, 12) and men’s sizes (9-10, 11-12)
Row 31: K across
Row 32: As row 30.
Row 33: K (30, 33) ♪ K2, INC, K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times. K (30, 32). (87, 93 sts).
Row 34: K (30, 32) ♯ P1 K6 ♯ Repeat from ♯ to ♯ 3 times more. P1 K (30, 32).
Row 35: K across
Row 36: Cast off (41, 44) sts. K4. Cast off (41, 44) sts.
There are 5 sts remaining on your needle.
Continue on to knit the Sole
Making the Sole
Next row: With the RIGHTside facing, attach yarn and knit the first cast off stitch by the 5 sts remaining of the last row (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
Work along these cast off sts on both sides.
Pick up a st here.
Top view.
Working needle inserted to pick up st.
K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (5 stitches).
Pick up this st.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next row: Knit across.
⌖Next row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K across. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (7 stitches).
Stitches picked up
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (7 stitches).
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Repeat row with ⌖(9 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Repeat row with (9 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Repeat row with⌖ (11 sts)
Toe starting to form.
View on the RIGHT side.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Repeat row with (11 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Repeat row with ⌖(13 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
♥ Next row: Repeat row with (13 sts)
Sole starting to form as picking up sts along sides.
Next row: Knit across. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until there are 5 cast off stitches to pick up.
Working down the sole.
Further down the sole.
5 sts left.
These 5 sts on each side.
✿ Next row: Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. K2tog twice Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (11 stitches).
Next row: Knit across.
⌘ Next row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (11 stitches).
You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.
Where the heel fills
Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the ridge closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog once. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog once. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (7 stitches).
Pick up here on the RIGHT side
Stitch picked up
Pick up here on the LEFT side
Stitch picked up
Row complete
Next row: K across
Next row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K3tog K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side. (5 sts)
Pick up here on the RIGHT side
Pick up here on the LEFT side
Row complete
Next row: K across
Next row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side. (5 sts)
Next row: K across
Next row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side. (5 sts)
Next row: K2tog K1 K2tog. (3 sts)
Next row: K3tog. Break yarn and fasten off. Sew the remaining seam up the back of the heel.
Heel complete
Seam sewn shut
Making the Tie and Lacing
Holes for the tie are made with the cast off and cast on sts in rows 7 and 8. There are 6 holes on each side.
Use what you like to make the tie. You can use a crochet hook and make a simple chain, use a shoe lace, a piece of ribbon, or cast on about 62 (65, 71, 74) sts and immediately cast off the next row if you want a plain knot to tie the slippers. Cast on and cast off about 82 (86, 94, 98) sts if you would prefer a bow. Make a braid of 6 or 9 strands. There are many options.
In through the front…
over, under to the back.
Over the back seam…
over, under to the front.
Hints and Tips
If you’re having trouble with Row 7, make sure to knit the cast off stitches (marked in italics) after the repeated cast off stitches. If you skip this step, you’ll end up with too many stitches at the end.
Casting off leaves one stitch on the needle. With K4 there are 5 sts for the start of the sole.
Cast on loosely in Row 8 to create a more noticeable hole. You can also use stitch markers to make them easier to find.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
K3tog – knit 3 together
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or redistribute this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Keep your feet warm and cozy with this slipper pattern! Designed to be knit flat on two sets of needles, this knitting pattern is perfect for those who prefer straight needle knitting. The plush, rolled cuff adds extra warmth around the ankles, and you can customize the length to make them as short or as tall as you like. Whether you’re looking for a quick project or a comfy gift idea, these slippers are a great choice.
To make things even easier, I’ve included plenty of step-by-step photos to guide you through every part of the process. The construction is simple but creates a nearly seamless fabric that keeps your feet toasty. So grab your yarn and needles, and let’s knit up a pair of slippers that will keep your toes warm all season long!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
1 MAIN colour of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
1 or more COMPLIMENTARY colours of worsted weight yarn. How many colours is up to you.
2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 32 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
To Begin – Cuff
Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) loosely
With first colour for the puffy portion of the cuff (COMPLIMENTARY colour)
* Row 1: P across
Row 2: K across * Repeat from * to * 3 more times for a total of 8 rows.
☺ ♠ Row 9: Change to MAIN colour of slipper. K across
Row 10: P across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 1 more times for a total of 4 rows.
Change to next COMPLIMENTARY colour (if applicable) for puffy portion of the cuff.
Row 14: K across. (Yes, knit)
Row 15: K across. (Yes. Knit again).
♦ Row 16: P across
Row 17: K across ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 1 more time (There are 6 rows for the puffy band). ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺3 more times or how every many colours or puffy portions you would like. As written, it will give you 5 puffy bands. The rainbow slippers are 6 with a total of 4 repeats.
Next row: Change to MAIN colour of slipper. K across
Next row: P across. The remainder of the slipper is done in the MAIN colour.
Toe Flap
Next row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches(the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
♥ Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Purl across. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 13 (14, 15, 16) times more for a total of 28 (30, 32, 34) rows total.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up evenly 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. To avoid a hole, make sure the first st you pick up is in this specific st as shown. All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.
This stitch
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up evenly 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. To avoid a hole, make sure the last st you pick up a stitch in this specific st as shown. Knit the remaining 11 (12,13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38)stitches on this needle).
This stitch
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
This is the basic moccasin slipper but the technique is exactly the same. I used a double pointed needle to work my 14 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!
Next row: K32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on the first needle. KNIT all the sts on the toe flap (middle) needle. K32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on the third needle.
Next row: (right side facing you) Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or men’s size 7.
These are the ridges picked up along the side.
Next row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Making the Sole
If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.
Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next row: Knit across.
ʤNext row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Next row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side.
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continuing to work down the length of the sole
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.
You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper. The video link I previously gave on how to make the sole, also has how to make this triangle. It’s not exactly the same as this one, it’s larger, but it can give you a good idea of how to do it if these photos are still confusing for you.
Pick up sts in these ridges on the RIGHT side
Pick up sts on the LEFT side.
♪ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog once. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog once. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).
First st picked up.
Last st picked up on the left side.
Next row: K across ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 0 (0, 1, 2) more times
ҨNext row: With the RIGHTside facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).
Next row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.
Next row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left.
Heel complete.
Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats than stated in Row 17.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a video that can help you with how to work in your ends while you knit.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
K3tog – knit 3 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or redistribute this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Use this crochet pattern at your own risk! The washers are choking hazards and the weight may not be appropriate for those with limited abilities. This is NOT a medical product!
This crochet pattern is also VERY basic, lacking the detailed how-to photos and explanations I usually add to my patterns. That’s why the printable download is free. Please be kind with your comments and critiques. If you have additional info you’d like to add, the comment section is open 😊
The squares are purposely kept small. I wanted to add as many washers as possible per square inch. Smaller squares means more squares, which hold more washers.
Join the squares together however you like. You can sew them together or make running SL STs to join them. Like I said, this is a limited crochet pattern and I’m not showing how to do that with this basic pattern.
Please scroll to the bottom of the page if you would prefer to download the FREE PDF version!
Things You Need
To make a 13.4 lb or 6.1 kg weighted blanket (a total of 96 square, lap sized blanket)
96 – 1.5” stainless steel washers. I got mine at Home Depot. Each weighs 64 grams
Worsted weight (8 ply) yarn in colours of your choice. You can use up yarn from your stash to make the flowers and surrounding border. (I haven’t finished the blanket myself as of yet so I can’t give firm amounts). A couple of 1 lb balls (like the Caron brand) should be more than enough if doing one solid colour.
Size 4.5 mm (G/7) crochet hook
Tapestry needle – to work in the ends
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To start and with one washer, hook your yarn and pull through the centre. YO and and pull through the loop. This does NOT count as the first SC. Make 24 SC through the hole around the washer. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC
Round 2: Ch 4 ◘ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop through the same st as join. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 3 more times. YO and draw through all 5 loops on your hook (petal made). Ch 2. Skip next 2 SC and in the 3rd SC.
☺♦ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop through the 3rd SC. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 4 more times. YO and draw through all 6 loops on your hook (petal made). Ch 2. Skip next 2 SC.☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ around. Join with SL ST to the top of the starting Ch 4. (8 flower petals).
Round 3: SL ST in first Ch 3 space. Ch 3 (counts as 1 DC) 2 DC. Ch 2. ♠In the next Ch 3 space, 3 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC, Ch 2 (corner made). In the next Ch 3 space, 3 DC Ch 2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ around. In last Ch 3 space, 3 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC, Ch 2 (last corner made). Join with SL ST to top of starting Ch 3.
Round 4: Ch 1 (counts as first SC). SC in each of the next 2 DC. 2 SC in next Ch 2 space. ♫ SC in each of the next 3 DC. 5 SC in the corner Ch 2 space. SC in each of the next 3 DC. 2 SC in the next Ch 2 space. ☼ SC in each of the next 3 DC. 2 SC in the next Ch 2 space. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ around. End with the last repeat at the ☼ mark. Join with SL ST to the top of he starting Ch 1.
Each washer weighs 64 grams. The average weight of a weighted blanket is about 6.8 kg (15 lbs). A smallish, lap size blanket uses about 96 squares. The total number of washers to meet the weight is 106. If you double up with washers on 10 squares, you can meet the 6.8 kg total weight.
If that’s too heavy, there are plastic washers you can use to replace the metal washer so the squares all look the same. If you want a heavier blanket double up washers on more squares. You can also use smaller washers that weigh less. There are many options to adjust the weight.
And I bought these washers at Home Depot. The number on the washers is the bin number. I don’t know if that’s standard in all Home Depots.
Hold your yarn to the back of your work as you create each square. It will have you less ends to work in.
What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.
This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.
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Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
To Begin
Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)
🦉 Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.
Row 3 – 4: K across. 🦉
Repeat from 🦉 to 🦉 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)
Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.
Break yarn when completed row 2.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With RIGHTside facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches(the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
🌸 Next 2 Rows: Knit across.
Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. 🌸
Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.
With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap.
With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38)stitches on this needle.
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
How the needle arrangement should look.
Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.
Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif. I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern. The horizontal ridges look the same for you.
Making the Sole
If you need help with the sole, you can watch the video. It starts right where you need it to.
Next Row: With WRONGside facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
🐿️ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Next Row: Knit across 🐿️
Repeat from 🐿️ to 🐿️ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continue to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
♥︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)
The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges when making the larger sizes.
The above photo shows 9 rows of ridges.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).
Picking up the stitch on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across ♥︎
Repeat from ♥︎ to♥︎ 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.
Making the Heel
I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.
♦︎ Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. ♦︎
Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!!
Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.
Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.
Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.
If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
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Get ready to knit a pair of slippers that are as cozy as they are charming! This knitting pattern brings together the best of warmth and whimsy, featuring a delightful owl motif perched right on top of the foot. These adult-sized slippers have been crafted with both style and function in mind, thanks to a fitted cuff that hugs your ankle for extra warmth and coziness. Perfect for chilly mornings or relaxed evenings, these slippers will be a go-to pair for any owl lover.
This pattern is designed for knitters with a bit of experience—if you’re comfortable with basic stitches, you’ll be able to follow along with ease. And don’t worry, you won’t be left to navigate the trickier parts alone! I’ve included detailed, how-to videos to help guide you through each step, ensuring that even challenging sections feel doable. Before you know it, you’ll have a cozy, owl-adorned pair of slippers that are sure to turn heads and keep feet warm.
if you are a lover of owls, then you are in LUCK! I have a number of patterns with owls including fingerless gloves, owl beanie, owl bucket hat, and an owl scarf. All are knit flat on 2 needles and are FREE to read on this website. Click any of the links and a new window will open a new page with the entire pattern there for you to enjoy.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Happy Knitting!
Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). You can use a second colour for the cuff.
2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.
Stitch holder
Cable Needle
Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy video tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. The embedded video is in the Abbreviations section
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
2” = 9 sts
2” = 18 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8,9-10, 11-12)
Cuff
With CUFF colour
Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) loosely
Row 1: K across
Row 2: With the RIGHT side facing you, (K1 P2) across. Maintain this pattern with any remaining sts at the end of the row.
Repeat from to 10 (12, 14, 16) times more for a total of 12 (14, 16, 18) rows
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, P across.
Next Row: K across. If cuff colour differs from the MAIN colour, break yarn now. Start the new colour when done knitting this row.
Next Row: K across for 13 (15, 17, 19) rows. Break yarn.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With the MAIN colour and the WRONG side of the ribbing facing you, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches(the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 11 (12,13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
Knit across for 7 (9, 9, 11) rows.
Next Row (with the RIGHT side of the ribbing facing you): K3 P2 K4 P2 K3
Next Row (with the WRONG side of the ribbing facing you): K2 P1 K8 P1 K2
Next Row: K3 P8 K3
♦ Next Row: K2 P1 C4F C4B P1 K2
Next Row: K3 P8 K3
♥ Next Row: K2 P1 K8 P1 K2
Next Row: K3 P8 K3 ♥Repeat from ♥to♥2 more times
Next Row: Repeat row marked with♦
Next Row: K3 P2 K4 P2 K3
♪ Next Row: K2 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K2
Next Row: K3 P2 K4 P2 K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to♪ 3 more times
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12, 13,14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38)stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used a double pointed needle to work my 14 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!
Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14) rows
There are 4 (5, 6, 7) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The following photo shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
These are the ridges picked up along the side.
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 12 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Making the Sole
If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The link starts the video in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
ʤNext Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).
Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.
Next Row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side.
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.
Making the Heel
If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.
You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.
ҨNext Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.
Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above
After you K2tog at the end of the row, you’ll pick up a stitch here.
Stitch picked up.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and K3tog).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Make sure to increase the same amount of garter stitch rows and ribbed rows equally. If increasing 10 rows, do so on both.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. You can watch the how to video here – how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
K3tog – knit 3 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
I’ve always wanted to design a pair of slippers that had a bit more character and substance—something that not only looks good but fits snugly and keeps you cozy. The deer motif on top of the foot gives these slippers a rustic charm, while the substantial cuff provides extra warmth and a secure fit. These slippers are great for knitters who are comfortable with basic stitches and ready to dive into something a bit more intricate.
This pattern is packed with various cable stitches, so you’ll get plenty of practice with your cable needle. The cables vary—sometimes you’ll be knitting the stitches on the cable needle, sometimes purling, and the number of stitches will also change. To keep things simple, I explain how to work each cable stitch as you go along, so you won’t need to constantly check the Abbreviations section.
This isn’t a beginner pattern, but if you’re familiar with the basics of knitting and feel comfortable using a cable needle, you’ll be able to handle this. I’ve included lots of helpful photos to guide you through the deer motif, so you’ll have plenty of visual aids as you knit.
You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knitted Deer Moccasin Slippers with a Cuff. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, CreativeFabricaand Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 🥰. If a link isn’t working, I either haven’t formatted it for the distributor or I’m waiting for approval.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Happy Knitting!
Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough)
2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.
Stitch holder
Cable Needle
Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy video tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. The embedded video is in the Abbreviations section
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
2” = 9 sts
2” = 18 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8,9-10, 11-12)
Toe Flap
Cast on 14 sts
🦌 Row 1: P across
Row 2: K across 🦌
Repeat from 🦌 to 🦌 2 (3, 4, 5) times more for a total of 6 (8, 10, 12) rows
Next Row: P6 K2 P6
Next Row: K5 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. P the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, P the next st. P the st on the cable needle. K5
🌼 Next Row: P5 K4 P5
Next Row: K5 P4 K5 🌼 Repeat from 🌼 to 🌼 one more time
Next Row: P4 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. K the st on the cable needle. K2 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, K the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P4
Next Row: K4 P6 K4
Next Row: P4 K6 P4
Next Row: K4 P6 K4
Next Row: P3 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next 2 sts. K the st on the cable needle. K2 Pick up the next 2 sts with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, K the next st. K the 2 sts on the cable needle. P3
Next Row: K3 P8 K3
Next Row: P3 K2 P1 K1 PM1 K1 P1 K2 P3 (15 sts)
Next Row: K3 P2 K1 P1 K1 M1 P1 K1 P2 K3 (16 sts)
Next Row: P3 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) P1 K1 P2 K1 P1 K2tog (as you normally would left to right) P3 (14 sts) This video shows how to knit the first K2tog. It’s for the leaf but it’s done the same way.
Next Row: K5 P1 K2 P1 K5
Next Row: P4 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K1 in the st BELOW (see photos). P1 the st on the cable needle. K1 P2 K1 P1 K1 in the 2nd st BELOW (knit this st in the knit st you made before the P1 as shown in the photos). P4 (16 sts)
Knit in the stitch below
Pull up a loop knit-wise like this.
After purling the st from the cable needle, knit the next st on your non-working needle
The other antler. You already knitted the st so it needs to be 2 sts down as shown. This is the st that is bold and italicized in the pattern.
Pick up this st with the non-working needle.
Branch of second antler complete.
Next Row: K4 P1 K1 P1 K2 P1 K1 P1 K4
Next Row: P3 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. P the st on the cable needle. P1 K1 P2 K1 P1 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P3
Next Row: K3 P1 K2 P1 K2 P1 K2 P1 K3
Next Row: P2 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. P the st on the cable needle. P8 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P2
Next Row: K2 P1 K10 P1 K2
🍄 Next Row: P across
Next Row: K16 🍄 Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 1 (2, 3, 4) times more. If you want a different colour for the cuff, break yarn when the last row is completed.
Making the Cuff
Next Row:(with the optional cuff colour) K16. Cast on an additional 11 (12, 13, 14). You now have 27 (28, 29, 30) sts on your needle.
Next Row: K27 (28, 29, 30). Cast on an additional 11 (12, 13, 14). You now have 38 (40, 42, 44) sts on your needle.
Next Rows: K across for a total of 13 (15, 17, 19) rows.
Next Row: With the WRONG side facing you, P across.
🌸 🐿️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing you, (K1 P2) across. Maintain this pattern with any remaining sts at the end of the row.
Next Row: K across. 🌸 Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 6 (7, 8, 9) times more. For a total of 14 (16, 18, 20) rows.
Repeat the row marked with 🐿️ one more time.
Cast off loosely with the WRONG side facing you.
If you would like to change the colour around the toe and foot, change colour now.
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 13 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
he sections of the slipper.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, pick up 11 (12,13, 14) stitches evenly along the edge of the cuff and place onto one of your needles. Pick up 18 (20,22, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. (29, 32,35, 38) stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 13 stitches evenly along the end of the toe flap.
With another needle, pick up 18 (20,22, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Pick up 11 (12,13, 14) stitches evenly along the edge of the cuff and place onto the next needle. (29, 32,35, 38)stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used a capped double pointed needle to work my 13 stitches for the end of the toe. A regular needle also works.
Knit the next 8 (10, 10, 12) rows
There are 4 (5, 5, 6) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
These are the ridges picked up along the side.
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 12 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Making the Sole
If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The link starts the video in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).
Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
ʤNext Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).
Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.
Next Row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side.
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.
Making the Heel
If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.
You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.
ҨNext Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (11 stitches).
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.
Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above
After you K2tog at the end of the row, you’ll pick up a stitch here.
Stitch picked up.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain. End with the K across row.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. K3tog. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog.
Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches). to sew up the remaining seam. Fold the cuff over when done sewing.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
Picking up the stitch to make the second branch of the antler is sort of up to you. If you pick up the stitch right below where you just knitted, it won’t be a disaster. Most deer antlers aren’t perfectly symmetrical in real life anyways. In fact, the more off they are, the more desirable; especially if it has a drop tine.
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Make sure to increase the same amount of garter stitch rows and ribbed rows.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. You can watch the how to video here – how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
K3tog – knit 3 together
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would. Watch this video to see how.
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
Welcome to the next book in the series of my collection of knitting patterns! If you enjoyed my Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitts to Knit, I’m sure you’ll enjoy this one just as much.
This delightful collection of practical yet stylish fingerless glove designs is sure to inspire knitters of all skill levels. Each pattern is knit flat on two straight needles, making them accessible even to those who may be new to knitting or prefer simpler techniques. Whether you’re a beginner eager to complete your first project or an intermediate knitter looking to expand your repertoire with charming new details, this collection offers something for everyone.
The designs range from playful, whimsical animals that add a touch of fun to your wardrobe, to elegant leaves and decorative motifs that showcase a refined sense of style. Each pattern is thoughtfully crafted with the perfect balance of simplicity and creativity, ensuring that the process is as enjoyable as the result.
As you work through the patterns, you’ll find yourself fully supported by helpful step-by-step videos and detailed photos, making even the trickiest techniques feel approachable. With these resources, you’ll gain confidence in your knitting skills and be able to complete each glove with pride. This collection will not only add a unique flair to your knitting projects but will also fill your crafting time with joy and satisfaction.
There are a number of options available to make the fingerless gloves. All the fingerless gloves patterns are free to read on this website. You can use this link – Fingerless Glove and Mitten Patterns to see all of them. I listed them all individually at the end of this post if you are looking for a specific one. 😁
Another option is to purchase and print the pattern yourself. If you are ok with printing the 104 page document, you can buy it from this website – Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit or from my Etsy shop. You can click or tap either of those links to see the collection.
If you would prefer to have the paperback version fully printed, bound and sent directly to your door, you can order the book online from Amazon. Be sure to click on your country so shipping will be as low as possible. If you are an Amazon Prime Member, the shipping is free! If you have a Kindle, the cheaper, digital version is available at the same links.
I understand that not everyone is in the financial position to purchase patterns, and that’s ok. That’s why I offer them for free; to enable anyone to use my work and be able to enjoy and even profit from it. That’s why while I give permission for everyone to sell what they make from my patterns, I ask that you respect the patterns themselves. Do NOT make illegal copies of them.
If you know someone who wants to use the patterns, send them the link so they can read the pattern online themselves. It helps me VERY much when you do this. More people on the website tell search engines that what is on my site is valuable and people like it. This makes it more likely that Google, Bing, Yahoo, etc will suggests my patterns when people do a search online.
To make sharing the patterns even easier, there are floating share buttons along the side of this and every page of the website. All you need to do is click it to share it. You can also use these share buttons to share this page.
Now that we’re through all that, here is the list of individual patterns that you can read online for free.
Gussy it up or wear it plain, this crocheted hat pattern is extremely versatile and makes hats for nearly anyone. Anyone but my 14 year old son apparently, who said, with his usual unenthusiastic honesty, “I don’t like it but it fits OK”. How do I know this? I needed to borrow his head to see how the smaller size fit and felt when wearing, so I guess it’s at least fit approved ¯\_(‘~’)_/¯
This hat can be made a number of ways, either as a wider brimmed sun hat with a flower, plain with the brim shaped similar to a cowboy/cowgirl hat, or with a narrower brim to be a bucket hat. Any way you choose is going to be a success! It’s easy to make, and as long as you know the basics of crochet. Literally if you know how to chain, single crochet (sc) and do a slip stitch (sl st), you’ll be able to make the hat. The flower can be a bit more tricky but I’ve included many photos and detailed descriptions to help you along.
The hat is made with 2 strands worsted weight yarn (or one strand of super bulky yarn) and a larger crochet hook. The stitches need to be fairly tight so the hat will hold it’s shape. Anything larger than the gauge given will make it floppy and the sizing may not work out as written. But, like all my patterns, play with it! If you want a floppy hat, no one said you can’t.
There aren’t any specific measurements for the hat sizing. It’s all very general as there is some stretch to the hat when finished and will form to fit the head it’s covering. If you want your hat to fit a little looser, go for the bigger size.
The way I thought of it when I was designing this hat, if it fit the glass head, it’s a small/medium size. In other words, a regular sized head. If it fits me and looks a little too big on the glass head, it’s a large/extra large. Let me put it this way. I know I have a big head. If you have ever thought you too might have a big head because hats don’t always fit you, hello fellow large head! If this statement makes no sense to you, go for the small/medium.
If you are looking to make the flower and the leaves, they each have their own page on the website. This pattern turned into a bit of a beast as it is. Both patterns are included with the printable PDF version of the sun and bucket hat.
If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook (or what ever size hook you need to get the correct gauge)
3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook for top edging, flowers and leaves (all optional)
2 balls Worsted Weight yarn or 1 ball Super Bulky yarn (for the hat itself)
For the sun hat you’l need:
106 gr or 3.7 oz each of the worsted weight colours (216 m or 237 yards)
or
173 gr or 6 oz Super Bulky yarn (170 m or 185 yards) of course it’s less yarn for the bucket hat.
Worsted weight yarn (for band, flowers, leaves and edging)
Stitch markers (at least 8 but it never hurts to have more. See Hints and Tips section)
Tapestry needle (to sew band and flowers, work in the ends)
Gauge
With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn
13 sts = 4”
14 rows = 4”
Check your gauge to obtain correct sizing and density of the final fabric created. The stitching needs to be tight to hold the hat shape.
Small/Medium
With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.
Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)
Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)
Round 8: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (66 sts)
Round 9: Sc around in the back loop.
Crochet in back of loop
Round 10-20: Sc around.
Round 21: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (77 sts)
***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch).
If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!
Round 22: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sc in the last st. (or crochet as many stitches as you have at the end of the round). (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).
Round 23: 4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around (Crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round but there should be 0).
Round 24: *10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. 2sc (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).
***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 31.
Round 25: 5sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 8sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).
Round 26: Sc around.
Round 27: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.
Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.
Round 28: Sc around.
Round 29: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 30: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.
Round 31: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.
Top or Crown Edging (Optional)
With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn…
In the loops left from Round 9, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.
Work in all ends.
Large/Extra Large
With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.
Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)
Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)
Round 8: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (63 sts)
Round 9: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (70 sts)
Round 10: Sc around in the back loop.
Crochet in back loop
Round 11-23: Sc around.
Round 24: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (84 sts)
***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch).
If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!
Round 25: *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to the beginning of the row. (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).
Round 26: 6sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 5sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).
Round 27: *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 3 more times.
***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 34.
Round 28: 6sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *12sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 13sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 7sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).
Round 29: Sc around.
Round 30: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.
Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.
Round 31: Sc around.
Round 32: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 33: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.
Round 34: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a sl st. Tie off and break yarn.
Top or Crown Edging (Optional)
With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn…
In the loops left from Round 10, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.
Work in all ends.
Band (Optional)
With a single strand of worsted weight yarn and your large 6mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook:
Small/Medium – Chain 74
Large/Extra Large – Chain 79
In second chain from hook, sc in each chain. Bring the ends of the band together and sc in the first sc of previous row. Be sure not to twist. We are now working in rounds.
Round 2-3: Sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.
Working in the bottom loop of the original chains…
Work 3 rounds of sc evenly. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn. Work in ends. Attach to the hat sewing the bottom edge of the band to where the brim joins the hat.
Add flowers or other embellishments of your choice.
Click a button to go to the flowers and leaf patterns
Colour choice of the 2 different worsted weight yarns can make a huge difference to your final hat. I mixed 2 tones of one colour for the cowboy/cowgirl hat, white and beige for the yellow flower hat, camo and black for the camo bucket hat. Variegated yarns should be used with a solid colour of yarn for the best effect.
Stitch markers make this so much easier. Pieces of yarn also work. I like to use a single bobby pin to note where the round starts and use regular stitch markers for where I’m making the increases.
In regards to the stitch markers, if you don’t want to use the stitch counts given for the rows, you can use the stitch markers instead. Think of it as increase 8 times evenly around. I did the math to figure out what was even spacing and to stagger the increases between the rows around the brim for the crochet purists.
I like to move my start of the round stitch marker as I make each row (the bobby pin in the photos). I leave the increases for the brim where they are. It makes things go a little quicker and avoids keeping track of stitch counts.
Speaking of stitch counts. This is crocheted in the round, meaning if your stitch counts become a little off, too many or not enough between the increases, it will still work out in the long run. I gave the number of stitches between the increases mainly to avoid repeating increases along the brim. It looked very noticeable and unsightly to me when the increases in increases lined up, but I’m a bit of a stickler for things like that. If you could care less how it look, have at it!
Edging is done with worsted weight yarn! If you are using a double strand of worsted weight yarn, select one of the colours and go with that. If you are using Super Bulky yarn, you’ll need to use any complimentary colour of worsted weight yarn you like. You don’t need very much.
Why I made the band the way I did. It’s very easy to twist the band if you join the chain right away. It’s considerably easier to avoid this if you sc in each chain first then bring the ends together.
The cowboy/cowgirl hat is the sun hat but with the brim formed into a more familiar cowboy hat style.
The band on the cowboy/cowgirl hat has daisy chain embellishments. You can either embroider them on or use your crochet hook. Place your yarn at the back of the band and pull up a loop to the front. Push your hook through the next hole and pull up a loop. Keep going down the length of the band.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
These slippers are a perfect blend of comfort, style, and simplicity! Whether you’re a knitting novice or a seasoned pro, this pattern is designed to be approachable and fun for everyone. If you’re more experienced, you’ll find that these slippers practically knit themselves, coming together in no time. For beginners, it’s a wonderful way to build confidence while creating something cozy and practical.
The beauty of these slippers lies in their simplicity. The stitches and techniques are basic, but the finished product looks effortlessly elegant. As long as you know how to cast on, knit, purl, K2tog (knit two together), and increase (by knitting two stitches in one), you’ve got everything you need to bring these slippers to life.
Don’t worry if you’re still working on perfecting these skills—this project is forgiving and a fantastic way to practice. Plus, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of slipping your feet into something handmade by you. So, grab your needles and yarn, and let’s knit up some cozy magic!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Happy knitting!
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn Any standard ball of yarn (283 g/10 oz, 471 meters/515 yards) will do.
4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In stockinette
4” = 20 sts
4” = 30 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
Heel Flap
Cast on 2 sts
Row 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K2 in each st (4 sts). This is also known as INC. See the Abbreviations section for help and a video link.
Row 5-7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (6 sts)
Row 9-11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (8 sts)
Row13 -15: Knit across.
Row 16: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (10 sts)
Row 17-19: Knit across.
Row 20: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (12 sts)
Row 21-23: Knit across.
Row 24: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (14 sts)
Row 25-27: Knit across.
Row 28: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (16 sts)
Do not knit the following 4 rows for the other sizes!
Next row: Knit across.
☺ Next row: K13 P1 K14 P1 K13
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Repeat row marked with ☺
Knit the following rows for ALLsizes.
Next row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (40 sts)
Next row: K12 P1 K14 P1 K12
Next row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (38 sts)
Next row: K11 P1 K14 P1 K11
Next row: K2tog across. (19 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K2tog across. K last st. (10 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Draw yarn through loops.
Make another slipper to match. Flip up the heel flap triangle and sew the edges of the triangle to the cast on edges. Sew the seam at the top of the foot to the first decreases and work in the ends.
Abbreviations
K – knit
INC – increase a stitch or knit 2 sts in one stitch
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
st- stitch
sts – sts
Hints and Tips
If your K2tog for the second to last row is off, no worries. If there’s 2 stitches, knit them together. It’s not a big deal and it won’t make a noticeable difference.
If you need a larger size slipper than what I’ve written for, you can add more knitting rows onto the end of the toe. If your gauge is correct, 4 rows of knitting will add approximately 1/2” or 1.75cm.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. You will NOT get that permission, btw.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
I’m thrilled to share my latest knitting pattern for fingerless mitts, and yes, my love for these cozy accessories shows no sign of stopping! This time around, I’ve added a twist—quite literally—with a unique cable pattern that elegantly winds its way down the back of the hand. It’s a design element that adds both texture and visual interest, making these mitts a true standout piece.
If you’re someone who’s mastered the basics and is looking to elevate your knitting game, this pattern is the perfect next step. It’s designed to bridge the gap between a beginner and an experienced knitter. And if cabling is new to you, don’t worry—this is the ideal project to dive in and learn something new! I’ve made sure to include video tutorials in the Abbreviations section to guide you through the cabling process, so you’ll have all the support you need.
But that’s not all! I’ve also added links to help you with any other potentially tricky parts of the pattern, like increasing for the thumb gusset. I want to ensure you feel confident and supported every step of the way. So, grab your needles, and let’s knit something beautiful together!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Will Need
Worsted weight yarn (less than 100 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves as written. I know because I weighed them). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.
Set of single pointed needles (see note on sizing)
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seams and work in ends
Cable needle
Sizing
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) single pointed needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) single pointed needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Left Hand
Cast on 36
Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1
Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K15 P1 K16 P1 K3
✰ Row 8: P3 K1 P16 K1 P15
❀ Row 9: K15 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8
Row 11: K15 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Row 12: Repeat ✰Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.
Next row: K12 M1 K M1 K2 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (38 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P17
Next row: K17 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 PM1 P PM1 P13 (40 sts)
Next row: K19 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P19
Next row: K14 M1 K M1 K4 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (42 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P21
Next row: K21 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P5 PM1 P PM1 P15 (44 sts)
Next row: K23 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P23
Next row: K16 M1 K M1 K6 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (46 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P25
Next row: K25 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P7 PM1 P PM1 P17 (48 sts)
Next row: K27 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P27
Next row: K12 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K2 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (35 sts)
❤ Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P14
Next row: K14 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤
✪ Next row: ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 3 sts P2 K1
Next row: P1 ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 2 sts. K2 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.
Cast off
Thumb
Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,
Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1
Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K3 P1 K16 P1 K15
✰ Row 8: P15 K1 P16 K1 P3
❀ Row 9: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K15
Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8
Row 11: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K15
Row 12: Repeat ✰ Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K2 M1 K M1 K12 (38 sts)
Next row: P17 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K17
Next row: P13 PM1 P PM1 P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 (40 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K19
Next row: P19 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K4 M1 K M1 K14 (42 sts)
Next row: P21 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K21
Next row: P15 PM1 P PM1 P5 K1 P16 K1 P3 (44 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K23
Next row: P23 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K6 M1 K M1 K16 (46 sts)
Next row: P25 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K25
Next row: P17 PM1 P PM1 P7 K1 P16 K1 P3 (48 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K27
Next row: P27 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K2 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K12 (35 sts)
❤ Next row: P14 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K14
Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤
✪ Next row: K ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 2 sts P2
Next row: ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 3 sts. K2 P1 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.
Cast off
Thumb
Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,
Next row: K across
Next row: P across
Next row: K across
Next row: P across
Cast off
Sew the seams of the thumbs and along the side of each hand. Work in the ends.
Hints and Tips
You can make the gloves as long or as short as you like. I made 3 repeats of the design. You could do less for a shorter version. The grey pair were repeated 7 times to give you an idea of what it looks like when longer.
Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
I want to start this intro off with making everyone aware that this pattern is NOT for beginners. If you are looking for something a little easier or plain I have a couple options that may work better for you. You can try Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern or see what all the options are available by going to the Fingerless Mitts and Glove section on the website.
Even though an experienced knitter will be able to make these, I have provided some photos to help with the pattern. I’m assuming you know how to carry yarn behind your work to change colours. It’s not hard to do, but you do need to watch the tension and make sure that it is neither too tight or loose and is consistent.
I really like how this pattern turned out, though it did take some fiddling to figure out how to incorporate the lattice pattern into the gloves. Now that I’ve figured it out, I thinking about other patterns I can add this detail to ☺. Yes, I am thinking slippers!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 10 US (6 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Sizing
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 6 mm (US size 10) knitting needles
8 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
10 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Colours
MC – Main colour. The colour of the cuffs and lattice design
BG – Background colour. The colour the lattice is on. The palm and back of the hand.
HC – Highlight colour. The band at the end of the wrist section and start of the cuff at the fingers
Continue using the colour until stated to change in the pattern.
You can use more colours than the 3 colours listed. You can use one colour and made tone on tone fingerless mitts. It’s up to you.
Right Hand
Cast on 33 sts
Row 1: With MC K across
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Carry yarn behind your work for row 23 (saves an end to work in)
Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)
Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at the end of row 22.
Row 23: *With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. With BG K13. Break BG colour.
Row 24: Pass next 13 sts onto working needle. With MC YF, Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat to the end of the row. (Don’t work this stitch. Let yarn hang).
Row 25: Join BG K across.
Row 26: P across.
☼ ♣ Row 27: With MC K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times more. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. (see Abbreviations for photos to LK).
♦ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise *YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise
Row 29: With BG K across
Row 30: P across
♥ Row 31: With MC *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
■ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise * YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise, * Repeat from * to * 3 times more.
Row 33: With BG K across
Row 34: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.
Row 35: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 36: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 37: With BG K26 M1 K M1 K11 (40 sts)
Row 38: P across
Row 39: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 40: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 41: With BG K across
Row 42: P12 PM1 P PM1 P27 (42 sts)
Row 43: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 44: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 45: With BG K across
Row 46: P across
Row 47: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 48: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 49: With BG K28 M1 K M1 K13 (44 sts)
Row 50: P across
Row 51: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 52: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 53: With BG K across
Row 54: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P29 (46 sts)
Row 55: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 56: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 57: With BG K across
Row 58: P across
Row 59: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 60: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 61: With BG K30 M1 K1 M1 K15 (48 sts)
Row 62: P across
Row 63: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 64: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 65: With BG K across
Row 66: P16 PM1 P PM1 P31 (50 sts)
Row 67: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 68: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 69: With BG K across
Row 70: P across
Row 71: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 72: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 73: With BG K26 Pass next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K11 (37 sts)
Row 74: P across. Break BG yarn
Row 75: Repeat ♣ Row 27. Break MC yarn. Pass the 25 sts just worked onto the other needle with 12 unworked stitches.
Row 76: With HC K4 * K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more.K2tog K4 (33 sts)
Row 77-79: Knit across
Row 80: With MC K across
Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 82: Repeat row 80
Row 83: Repeat row 81
Cast off.
Make Thumb
Transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle.
☺ Row 1: With MC K across
♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K
Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1
Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2
Cast off
Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Break yarn.
Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts. This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)
Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at end of row 22.
Row 23: With BG K13.*With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. Break BG colour.
Row 24: With MC and YF Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat from * to * 3 times more. YF. Pass next 13 sts onto working needle.
Row 25: Join BG K across.
Row 26: P across
۞ §Row 27: With BG K13. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (see Hints and Tips andAbbreviations for photos to cross yarn and LK respectively).
۩ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise . Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
◊ Row 29: With BG K25 over the 25 sts from previous row.
Row 30: P across.
ʘRow 31: With BG K13 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (40 sts)
▲ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise *YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.
Row 33: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 34: P across. ۞ Repeat from ۞ to ۞ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.
Row 35: With BG K11 M1 K M1 K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1 Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (40 sts)
Row 36: Repeat ۩ Row 28.
Row 37: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 38: P across
Row 39: With BG K15 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 40: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 41: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 42: P27 PM1 P PM1 P12. (42 sts)
Row 43: With BG K17. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 44: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
Row 45: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 46: P across
Row 47: With BG K13 M1 K M1 K3 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (44 sts)
Row 48: Repeat ▲ row 32
Row 49: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 50: P across
Row 51: With BG K19. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 52: Repeat ۩ Row 28
Row 53: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 54: P29 PM1 P PM1 P14 (46 sts)
Row 55: With BG K21 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 56: Repeat ▲ row 32
Row 57: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 58: P across.
Row 59: With BG K15 M1 K M1 K5. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (48 sts)
Row 60: Repeat ۩ Row 28
Row 61: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 62: P across
Row 63: With BG K23 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 64: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 65: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 66: P31 PM1 P PM1 P16 (50 sts)
Row 67: With BG K25. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 68: Repeat ۩ row 28
Row 69: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 70: P across
Row 71: With BG K11. Pass the next 13 sts onto a st holder K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. LK. (37 sts)
Row 72: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 73: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 74: P across
Row 75: With BG K12 Break BG colour yarn. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Break MC. Pass ALL of the sts just worked onto the non-working needle.
Where the needle point is when done the row.
Where the needle point needs to be at the start of the row
Row 76: With HC K4 *K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K2tog. K4 (33 sts)
Row 77-79: Knit across. Break yarn.
Row 80:With MC K across
Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K
Row 82: Repeat row 80
Row 83: Repeat row 81
Cast off.
Make Thumb
transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle.
☺ Row 1: With MC K to the last st. K
♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1
Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2
Cast off
Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.
Hints and Tips
Don’t pull your yarn tight when pulling the yarn across the back of your work. Give enough slack to let the stitches stretch as they should and NOT bunch up. Not doing so will make the gauge significantly smaller and the glove won’t fit.
The lattice pattern is worked when the WRONG side is facing you.
The palm of the hand is plain. FYI I tried to make the lattice pattern all over the mitt. It looked and felt weird and had NO stretch.
You don’t need to add the rolled edge. Rows 1-8 create the roll. You can start with the ribbing at Row 9.
If you want to have a longer version of the glove than what is written, you may need to add more sts to the 13 st section so it will fit around the forearm. There isn’t a lot of stretch to allow for the wide part of the upper forearm.
Crossing over the yarn is straight forward. It needs to look like this or you will get odd shaped stitches.
If you are a left handed knitter, the crossing over of the yarn may need to be done on the right hand instead of the left. I’m not left handed, but logic would dictate things are reversed. In light of you being left handed, I’m assuming this isn’t the first time you’ve run across this issue.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
YF – pull the yarn to the FRONT of your work
YB – pull the yarn to the BACK of your work
Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle without working the stitch.
LK – loop knit. Pick up the loop running across between the sts. Knit this and the next st on the needle.
The loop running between sts
Pick up the loop
Knit the next st.
Knit the st and loop and drop the st from the non-working needle as you normally would.
The loops on the edge are slightly harder to see but done the same way.
Yarn is crossed. Loop between the edge and the st picked up.
Knitting the loop and next st nearly finished.
The loop between the st and the edge is a little harder to see.
Pick up the loop…
…and the last st on the non-working needle. Work this as you did the others.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
Once again, I’m back to one of my favourite, smaller projects to knit: fingerless gloves! I’ve designed a number of different ones over the years with some of my most popular being the Owl Gloves, Spider Fingerless Gloves, Hippo Gloves and the Autumn Leaves Fingerless Gloves, to name a few. Like this pattern, they too are knit flat on straight needles. Over the years I’ve found that most people prefer this to those knit in the round, though I do have those too ☺
Like the other patterns, and to keep the design on the back of the hand centered, I change the size of the needles to make them larger or smaller. There’s more about that in the Gauge section with a quick reference info graphic to help you with the sizing. These are designed for adult hands,but if you would like them even smaller for children, I recommend using thinner yarn and needles. I can’t help with what the final sizing would be unfortunately. It’ll be a guess on your part unless you know how to do the math.
If you need help with any of the techniques used in the pattern, there are links and playable videos in the Abbreviations section after the pattern. All the videos that will show you exactly how to do it.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Zigzag Elegance Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)
Knitting needles – described below in sizing and gauge
Stitch Holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends
Sizing and Gauge
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the spider consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off. Most knitting is tbh.
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4)
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6)
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8)
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
All use stockinette for gauge.
Right Hand
Cast on 35
♠ Row 1: * K2 P1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 2: * P2 K1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: P across
♦Row 11: K2 [K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO] K18 (33 sts) The pattern between the [ and ] make up the pattern up the back of the hand on the RIGHT side.
Row 12: P22 YO P6 YO P5 ♦ (35 sts) Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 7 more times (You can repeat these 2 rows as more than 7 times if you want longer gloves.)
Row 27: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO K3 M1 K1 M1 K14 (35 sts)
Row 28: P24 YO P6 YO P5 (37 sts)
Row 29: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO K20 (35 sts)
Row 30: P14 PM1 P3 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (39 sts)
Row 31: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K22 (37 sts)
Row 32: P26 YO P6 YO P5 (39 sts)
Row 33: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3 M1 K5 M1 K14 (39 sts)
Row 34: P28 YO P6 YO P5 (41 sts)
Row 35: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K24 (39 sts)
Row 36: P14 PM1 P7 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (43 sts)
Row 37: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K26 (41 sts)
Row 38: P30 YO P6 YO P5 (43 sts)
Row 39: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3 M1 K9 M1 K14 (43 sts)
Row 40: P32 YO P6 YO P5 (45 sts)
Row 41: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K28 (43 sts)
Row 42: P14 PM1 P11 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (47 sts)
Row 43: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K30 (45 sts)
Row 44: P34 YO P6 YO P5 (47 sts)
Row 45: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3. Transfer the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K14 (32 sts)
Row 46: P21 YO P6 YO P5 (34 sts)
Row 47: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K17 (32 sts)
Row 48: P21 YO P6 YO P5 (34 sts)
Row 49: K across
Row 50: * K1 P2 * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1
Row 51: P1 * K2 P1 * Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 52: as row 50
Row 53: as row 51
Cast off
Making the Thumb
Transfer the the sts on the st holder back to the knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing:
♠ Row 1: * K2 P1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 2: * P2 K1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: P across
♦Row 11: K18 [K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO] K2 (33 sts) The pattern between the [ and ] make up the pattern up the back of the hand on the RIGHT side.
Row 12: P6YO P6 YO P21 ♦ (35 sts) Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 7 more times (You can repeat these 2 rows as more than 7 times if you want longer gloves.)
Row 27: K14 M1 K1 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (35 sts)
Row 28: P6 YO P6 YO P23 (37 sts)
Row 29: K20 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (35 sts)
Row 30: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P3 PM1 P14 (39 sts)
Row 31: K22 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (37 sts)
Row 32: P6 YO P6 YO P25 (39 sts)
Row 33: K14 M1 K5 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO] K2 (39 sts)
Row 34: P6 YO P6 YO P27 (41 sts)
Row 35: K24 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (39 sts)
Row 36: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P7 PM1 P14 (43 sts)
Row 37: K26 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (41 sts)
Row 38: P6 YO P6 YO P29 (43 sts)
Row 39: K14 M1 K9 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (43 sts)
Row 40: P6 YO P6 YO P31 (45 sts)
Row 41: K28 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (43 sts)
Row 42: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P11 PM1 P14 (47 sts)
Row 43: K30 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (45 sts)
Row 44: P6 YO P6 YO P33 (47 sts)
Row 45: K14 Transfer the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (32 sts)
Row 46: P6 YO P6 YO P20 (34 sts)
Row 47: K17 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (32 sts)
Row 48: P6 YO P6 YO P20 (34 sts)
Row 49: K across
Row 50: * K1 P2 * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1
Row 51: P1 * K2 P1 * Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 52: as row 50
Row 53: as row 51
Cast off
Making the Thumb
Transfer the the sts on the st holder back to the knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing:
Row 1: K across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: K across
Cast off
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
st – stitch
sts – stitches
YO – Yarn over. Pull the yarn FORWARD under your working needle when knitting and knit the next stitch OR pull the yarn BACK under your working needle for a purl and purl the next stitch. Increases one stitch in your work and makes a hole.
How to YO the KNITTING
How to YO when PURLING
K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle. Do NOT knit the stitch.
PSSO – on your working needle, pass the slipped stitch over the stitch just worked. It may be a knit or a K2tog. This and Sl st are a combo that are often done together.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
Hints and Tips
If you prefer to knit the last two stitches together on the left side of the design instead of Sl st and PSSO, make sure that you twist the stitch and put it back on your non-working needle. I did this for the autumn leaf gloves I mentioned earlier. You can watch how I do it here – Motif Edges – Autumn Leaf Half Gloves
I like using ombre or colour transitioning yarns for these. Solid colours also work well. Lighter colours tend to be better as it can be hard to discern the pattern with dark colours like black, brown, purple and such. Variegated colours would probably make the pattern indistinguishable.
You can make the cuff at the fingers and wrist different colours for a little extra flair.
Make the fingerless mittens as long as you like. I made an additional 7 repeats of the design, but you could do more or less. If you do more you should probably cast on more stitches as the arm get thicker towards the elbow, then decrease down to the number of stitches as written in the instructions.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
Perfect for new knitters, these slippers are knit flat on just two needles, making them an ideal project for beginners or anyone looking for a straightforward, relaxing knit.
These charming slippers feature a lace-up design at the front, adding a delightful touch of customization and ensuring a snug fit. You can easily adjust the colours to match your personal style or to use up those leftover yarns in your stash.
Whether you’re knitting for yourself, a loved one, a thoughtful handmade gift, or to sell, these slippers are sure to bring warmth and comfort to any pair of feet. So, gather your materials, find a cozy spot, and let’s get started on creating your very own pair of Cozy Lace-Up Slippers!
If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Cozy Knitted Lace Up Slippers, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and the Kindle and paperback versions are available on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 354 yard, 7 oz or 324 m, 198 gram ball will be more than enough to make single colour slippers).
Size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.
Tapestry needle to sew in ends. If you are using multiple colours, you can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men’s size 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
The Pattern
Unlike most knitting patterns, this pattern’s right side and wrong side are reversed. All ODD numbered rows are the WRONG side and all the EVEN numbered rows are the RIGHT side.
If you need help with the M1, there is a video in the Hints and Tips section.
With lace up section colour, cast on 52 (60, 60, 68) sts. Leave a longer length to sew the top of the toe (about 18 inches).
Row 1 (wrong side): K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4
Row 2 (right side): K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8
Row 3: As row 1
Row 4: K4 (P2 K2) to last 8 sts. P8
Row 5: As row 1
Row 6: As row 4
Row 7: As row 1
Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. (ie. red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple). See Hints and Tips section for more information.
♠ Row 8: K to last 8 sts. P8
Row 9: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)
Change to colour for heel section.
♦ ☺ Row 20: K to last 8 sts. P8
Row 21: K across ☺
Row 22: K to last 8 sts. M1 P8
Row 23: As row 21 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 3 more times. (56, 64, 64, 72 sts)
Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 0 (1, 2, 3) times more for an additional 0 (2, 4, 6) rows.
♫ Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8
Next row: K across
Next row: K to the last 10 sts. K2tog. P8
Next row: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 3 more times. (52, 60, 60, 68)
Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. Remember to knit the rows in the reverse order you did originally (ie. purple, blue, green, yellow, orange, red)
♣ Next row: As row 8
Next row: As row 9 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)
Change to lace up section colour
Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8
Next row: K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4
Next row: As row 4
Next row: As row 1
Next row: As row 4
Next row: As row 1
Next row: K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8 (As row 2)
If you know how to crochet, you can use a size 5 mm (US size 8) and chain as many sts to make it 3 times the length of the slipper. Slip stitch in every chain. Tie off. Stretch out the lace when done.
If you want to knit it instead, cast on 140 (160, 1600, 180) sts. Cast off. Stretch out the lace when done.
You can also braid 3 lengths of yarn to form the lace. I’m not sure how long of lengths you’ll need to do this.
How I laced up the slipper. The lace up areas are sewn together but you don’t have to.
Hints and Tips
There are 12 rows (6 ridges) that form the pattern on the side of the slipper after the lace up area. You can change colours any way you would like for this section. I’ve shown a number of combinations: 1 colour (beige), 2 colour alternating (purple), 3 colour lighter to darker (browns), 6 colour (rainbow), but you may want to try something else.
The 6 colours are 2 rows each for a total of 12 rows.
To sew the seams, use a simple whip stitch for the toe and the lace up section. You don’t want thick seams for these slippers. And speaking of the lace up section, you don’t have to sew it all the way. Up part way, past the toes, will work. I sewed mine all the way up to the rolled cuff. I like how it fits, looks and feels when it’s sewn all the way. But that’s just my preference.
Use the whip stitch when sewing the toes. Draw the stitches together as tightly as you can to draw them together to give a rounder look. To have them draw together even tighter, when you are done with the whip stitch, pull the ends through each corner. Flip the slipper inside out. Weave in each end. When doing this pull the yarn ends even tighter and work the end back on itself to secure it.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
P2tog – purl to sts together.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch.
K2tog – knit 2 sts together.
YO – yarn over. With this pattern, when you go from making the purl st to the knit st, don’t pull the yarn to the back of your work. The YO is forming the hole to weave the lace through.
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.
This is an old riff on a new design. As you may know, I have a thing for owls. I’m also starting to develop a thing for hats. In particular, bucket hats. I have a crochet versionand a double thick knit version done thus far. With this hat, the owls can easily be replaceable with any design. And yes, I will be replacing it with various stitch patterns, colours and the like. I may even redesign it so it’s knit in the round on multiple needles so there’s no seam. If you would like that pattern, let me know in the comments.
Unlike my other plain knitted bucket hat, this one doesn’t require anything beyond a single pair of knitting needles and a cable needle. If you’ve made my other owl projects like the scarf, fingerless gloves and the beanie hat, then you’ll be able to make this up in no time.
If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!
Another option, become a member on this site. It’s not overly expensive, only $3 per month, and you can cancel at any time.
In the exclusive member area, I’ve listed all of my patterns by category and you can download them with a single click. No waiting for links through an email. Simply click the link, the pattern downloads, and depending on your computer or smart device settings, opens automatically. Easy peasy. Once you become a member, you can also read the pattern online without ads or pop-ups. Interested? Click the link below…
Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)
4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
16 buttons or jewels for eyes
Gauge
In stockinette
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
Top
With main colour
Cast on 5
Row 1: INC across (10 sts)
If there are any stitches that you don’t know how to make, please go to the Abbreviations section at the end of the pattern. I embedded the how-to YouTube videos for you to watch there. 😊
Row 2: P across (always P across for every even row, or WRONG side, until told otherwise directed in the instructions)
Row 3: *K1 M1 * Repeat from * to * until last 2 sts. K2 (18 sts)
Row 5: ♠ K2 M1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ until last 2 sts. K2 (26 sts)
Row 7: ♦ K3 M1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until last 2 sts. K2 (34 sts)
Row 9: ♥ K4 M1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until last 2 sts. K2 (42 sts)
Row 11: ♪ K5 M1 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ until last 2 sts. K2 (50 sts)
Row 13: ▲ K6 M1 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ until last 2 sts. K2 (58 sts)
Row 15: ☼ K7 M1 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ until last 2 sts. K2 (66 sts)
Row 17: ⌂ K8 M1 ⌂ Repeat from ⌂ to ⌂ until last 2 sts. K2 (74 sts)
Row 19: ∞ K9 M1 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ until last 2 sts. K2 (82 sts)
Row 21: ♣ K10 M1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ until last 2 sts. K2 (90 sts)
Stop here if making the sm/med size hat. Go to row marked with ■ and skip row 23 and 24.
Row 23: ◄ K11 M1 ◄ Repeat from ◄ to ◄ until last 2 sts. K2 (98 sts)
Owl Band
■ Change colour for top stripe.
Next 4 rows: K across.
Change colour for owls.
Next row (right side): K across.
Next row (wrong side): K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1
Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1(2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ɵ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) ɵ Repeat from ɵ to ɵ 7 times more. K1
Next row (right side): P1 ɸ P1(2) C4F C4B P2 ɸ Repeat from ɸ to ɸ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 Ʊ K2 P8 K1(2) Ʊ Repeat from Ʊ to Ʊ 7 times more. K1
☺Next row (right side): P1 ¤ P1(2) K8 P2 ¤ Repeat from ¤ to ¤ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ɚ K2 P8 K1(2) ɚ Repeat from ɚ to ɚ 7 times more. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺
2 times more.
Next row: P1 ☻ P1(2) C2F C2B P2 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1
◊ Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1 (2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ȸ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) ȸ Repeat from ȸ to ȸ 7 times more. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊
4 times more.
Change colour for bottom stripe.
Next row: K1 ∆ K1(2) C4F C4B K2 ∆ Repeat from ∆ to ∆ 7 times more. K1
۞Next row: K0(2) ♥ P3 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ across
Next row: K across
Next row: Repeat row marked with ۞
Next row: ♫ INC K3 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ across. K0(2). (150 (162 sts)
Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across
§ Next row: K across
Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across § Repeat from § to § 2 more times.
Cast off.
Hints and Tips
Unlike the other knit bucket hat I have, there is nothing overly tricky about this one. It knits flat on one set of needles making it much easier to make.
Blocking your final project is always up to you. Most things I make I never block. I did with the smaller version (yellow with the yarn eyes) so it would fit the mannequin head better. I cannot recommend a steamer enough! There are a variety on Amazon for fairly cheap. These use nothing but steam, and even when using acrylic yarn, it still holds its shape while relaxing the stitches and doesn’t squash the knitting like a standard iron will.
I also decided to try embroidering on the eyes for the owls. I’m also running out of the half cabochons for eyes so I kinda had to. Do I love it? I don’t hate it and prefer the half cabs but that’s just me. All I did was run a single strand of yarn behind the owls and embroider over the stitches in the eye position. You can see the yarn running behind a bit. If it was a lighter yarn behind a darker colour it would look better. I also left enough yarn between eyes to stretch with the hat. Make sure it’s not too tight if you do this!
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch Click this link to watch this video to see how.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how.
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.
Looking for something to keep the sun off this summer? Why not try a knitted bucket hat. You can even make them for the whole family!
Made with thick yarn, this bucket hat works up faster than most knitted hats. And the stitches are tight. The brim can hold its shape to keep the sun out of your eyes. Because it is knitted you can fold or roll it up to fit any small space in your luggage, pack or bag. Upon arrival, it will look great once you put it on.
For this pattern, I use a very different technique involving multiple needles. Why the extra needles? Round things don’t like to be flat and the stitches get tight if not separated on multiple needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me. Where you end with one needle, the tip of the next needle is there for you to continue on knitting. By doing it this way, the hat is knit flat and NOT in the round.
Click any photo below for all of my knit and crochet summer hats. Like this one, the patterns are FREE to read on my website and you can sell, keep or give away any of the hats that you make from my patterns.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Things You Will Need
2 balls of worsted weight yarn or 1 ball of Super Bulky Yarn – The standard large size balls (360 yards of worsted weight) will do and you’ll have a lot left over. When using 2 strands of yarn use either the same colour or 2 colours. Combining shades, colours and textures can give interesting effects. (Acrylic, blends and cotton all work)
One set of size US 8 (5 mm) straight (single point) knitting needles
One set of size US 8 (5 mm) dpn (double pointed) knitting needles – We’re using these needles a single pointed needles. These usually come with 5 in a set, are shorter and are less unwieldy when knitting. You can use stitch stoppers at one end of each needle or wrap the end with an elastic band to keep the stitches from slipping off the end.
2 Size US 8 (5 mm) circular needles(optional) – The last rows of the brim for the largest size has a large number of stitches. It can be easier to use circular needles to knit these when used as a regular single pointed needle.
Stitch stoppers (optional) – for the ends of the dpn’s or circular needles to make them single pointed needles. Elastics wrapped around the end of the dpn’s or circular needles work just as well.
Tapestry needle – To sew the seam and work in ends.
How to Use the Needles
The rows work back and forth like every other flat thing you’ve knitted. The only difference with the hat is you are going to be adding stitches for each section and these additional stitches are going to make it round. To help you visualize what you’re going to make I’ve include the following graphic. The hat is divided into 5 sections, each divided with knit stitches. You work back and forth, from one needle to the next, until you have the correct number of stitches for the size hat you are making.
You don’t need to use 5 separate needles with one working needle. 2 or sometimes 3 sections will fit on one needle before the stitches become to tight to knit. Switch to a new needle when it suits you. There is no right or wrong time to add a new needle.
The stitches at the start of the hat need to be split between at least 2 needles with one additional working needle. The stitches quickly become too tight to work with a single straight needle.
You can also use 2 sets of circular needles when you get further along in the hat. Use each needle as a long and flexible single pointed needle. You can wrap an elastic band or use a stitch stopper at the end so the stitches don’t slide off the end.
Sizing
Every 3 sts equals approximately 1 inch. When making the child hat, you can make it slightly bigger by adding additional M1 sts to each section past what is written in Row 11. If you need an inch larger, when knitting the next increase row, evenly add one M1 st in 3 of the 5 sections (ie section 1, 3, and 5). If 2 inches, 2 M1 sts in 3 sections. The ribbing for the brim will work for every inch (or 3 M1 sts) you add.
If you need a smaller hat, when making Row 11, knit 3 M1 sts less in 3 sections. You’ll have a total of 52 sts.
If you are adjusting for size, only knit an additional 18 rows instead of 20.
If adding or subtracting M1 sts, the number of repeats and stitch counts for the child size for the brim will be off. Adjust accordingly.
With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn
in stockinette
6 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
11 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Measurements for the sizes:
child = 18.5 inches (47 cm)
sm/med adult = 21.5 inches (54.5 cm)
lg/x-lg adult = 23.5 inches (60 cm)
Pattern is written as such:
Child (sm/med adult, lg/x-lg adult)
The Pattern
Cast on 5
Row 1: Inc in every st (10 sts)
You can watch the video below if you are uncertain how to make the increases.
Row 2: P across
Purl across for every even row [the WRONG side] until making the brim
Row 3: ◊ K M1 K ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 4 more times. (15 sts)
Click on the video below if you need help with the M1 stitch
You’ll need to start using the extra needles. The first 2 sections (*K M1 K* twice) are on the first needle with the remaining sections are on the second needle.
Row 5: ○ K M1 K M1 K ○ Repeat from ○ to ○ 4 more times. (25 sts)
The first 2 sections (*K M1 K M1 K* twice) are on the first needle with the remaining sections on the second needle.
Row 7: ◘ K M1 K3 M1 K ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 4 more times. (35 sts)
The first 2 sections (*K M1 K3 M1 K* twice) are on the first needle. Sections 3 & 4 (*K M1 K3 M1 K* twice) are on the second needle. Section 5 on the third needle.
You can use any combo of stitches that you like
When purling the wrong side, I purled one section, purled 3 sections on the middle needle, and still need to purl the last section.
Or maybe this combo
The first sections is on the first needle. Sections 2 & 3 are on the second needle. Section 4 is on the third needle. Section 5 on the fourth needle. Whatever works for you is perfect!
Row 9: ☺ K M1 K5 M1 K ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 4 more times. (45 sts)
Row 11: ♠ K M1 K5 M1 K ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 4 more times. (55 sts)
Stop here if making the child size bucket hat.
Move on to Row 16.
Row 13: ♪ K M1 K7 M1 K ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 4 more times. (65 sts)
Stop here if making the teen/small adult size bucket hat.
Move on to Row 16.
Row 15: ▲ K M1 K9 M1 K ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ 4 more times. (75 sts)
Row 16: P across
Row 17: K across
Row 18: P across
Repeat rows 17 and 18 for a total of 20 (22, 24) rows.
About to start on the repeating rows.
Make the Brim
Next Row: K3 (1, 2) ♥ K1 M1 K2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 16 (20, 23) times more. K1 (1, 1). 72 (86, 99 sts)
Next Row: P1 K1 ■ P3 K ■ Repeat from ■ to ■ 16 (20, 23) times more. P2 (0, 1).
Next Row: K2 (4, 1) ☼ Inc, K3 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 16 (19, 23) times more. Inc, K1. 90 (107, 124 sts)
✿ Next Row: P1 K2 ∞ P3 K2 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ 16 (19, 23) times more. P2 (3, 1) K0 (1, 0).
Next Row: K across
Next Row: Repeat row marked with ✿
Next Row: K across
Next Row: Repeat row marked with ✿
Cast off. Leave a longer length of 1 strand of your yarn to sew seam and draw the circle closed at the top of the head. Work in the remaining ends of yarn.
Hints and Tips
Where you split the stitches is up to you. If the stitches are getting difficult to knit, use a new needle from the set.
When separating the sections between needles, lines can form in your work where the needles meet. To avoid this, knit a few stitches off the next needle. When knitting on the other side, knit one or two stitches from the next needle. This alternates the stitches where the needles meet and can prevent the line from forming.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
Inc – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
Looking for a more form fitting hat or toque to keep yourself or your loved ones a bit extra warm? This ribbed crochet beanie will certainly do that. Made with simple stitches and many photos to help you along, this crochet project is perfect for all levels of crocheters.
Due to the sideways, ribbed design, it is very forgiving in the sizing. It snugs in tightly to the head of the wearer and is very customizable. You can make it with or without extra folded edging across the forehead and ears. It all depends on how many stitches you chain at the start. Don’t worry I explain this all later on in the pattern.
If you aren’t a fan of crocheting, this was originally designed as a knitted beanie. It too, is done in an up and down fashion like this. If you would like to see that pattern, you can click this link – Winter Beanie Toque or Touque or Tuque with Vertical Stripes
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).
If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn. One standard ball (278 yards or 255 m) will do but if you want other colour segments, of course it will be more skeins of yarn. This doesn’t include yarn for an optional pom pom.
Size 5 mm (H or size 8) crochet hook
Tapestry needle so work in ends
Gauge
In single crochet
17 sts = 4 inches or 10 cm
16 rows = 4 inches or 10 cm
The Pattern
To achieve the ribbing effect, all stitches are made in the BACK loop only! ALL stitches throughout the pattern are made in the back loop.
Ch 51. In second ch from hook:
*Row 1 – 4: 50 SC across in the back loop of every st
Row 5: 47 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
HDC over these sts
Pull up a loop in the back loop of each st
YO and draw through all 3 loops
Row 6: 48 SC, Ch 1. Turn.
Row 7: 42 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
Pull up loops in the back loop of these 2 sts. YO and draw through all 3 loops. Leave remaining 4 sts unworked.
Row 8: 43 SC, Ch 1. Turn.
Row 9: 37 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
Row 10: 38 SC, Ch 1.Turn.*
Repeat from * to * 7 more times (for a total of 8 sections). If you want to change colours, do so BEFORE the Ch 1. Then turn.
When repeating you need to pick up the stitches that were decreased.
Bring the edges together and slip stitch the seam together. Go through the back loop, and between the sts of the row 1 as you SL ST down the length of the toque. Turn the hat inside out when done the seam.
Work in the back loop like before.
Insert your hook in the back loop of the st. Do NOT YO yet!
Insert your hook between the sts of the first row. YO now and pull through.
Continue to slip the YO through so there is a single loop on your hook.
Making a few stitches of the seam.
Leave a length of yarn about 8 inches long. Draw the ends of the rows together to close the hole at the top of the beanie. Add a pom pom if you like.
Alternate Pattern for ANY Length
If you would like to make a larger folded edge over the forehead and ears, you can chain more sts to make it as long as you want. You can also have no folded edge. For this, chain less stitches. How many chains all depends on what you’re looking to accomplish and will take some trial and error. Of course, if you are doing this, the st counts will be off.
Another way to write the pattern for any number of sts is as follows.
*Row 1 – 4: SC across in the back loop of every stitch
Row 5: SC until there is 3 sts remaining. HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
Row 6: SC to the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn.
Row 7: SC until there are 6 sts unworked of the previous row (doesn’t include sts from previous row). HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn
Row 8: SC to the end of the row., Ch 1. Turn.
Row 9: SC until there are 6 sts unworked of the previous row (doesn’t include sts from previous rows). HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn
Row 10: SC to the end of the row., Ch 1.Turn.*
Repeat from * to * 7 more times (for a total of 8 sections). If you want to change colours, do so BEFORE the Ch 1. Then turn.
Bring the edges together and slip stitch the seam together. Go through the back loop, and between the sts of the row 1 as you SL ST down the length of the toque. Turn the hat inside out when done the seam.
Leave a length of yarn about 8 inches long. Draw the ends of the rows together to close the hole at the top of the beanie. Add a pom pom if you like.
Abbreviations
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
YO – yarn over
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Hints and Tips
If you would like to alternate colours, anything that goes evenly into 8 will work; any 2 or 4 colours.
Speaking of colours, this design works particularly well with ombre, variegated and self striping yarns.
I’m always a fan of these yarns, but find that there aren’t many patterns where I can use them.
If you would like to make it fit child sized heads, you have a couple of options. You can either use a smaller size hook so there are more stitches per inch/cm. The other option is to make less sections and ch fewer sts when starting. Changes such as these are beyond what I can calculate for so I can’t help you much with that. It will be trial and error on your part.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
The knitted owl hat, scarf and mitt collection is now available and you have a few options to choose from. There is the ad-supported, free web versions, the printable 3 patterns in one PDF, and last but not least, the paperback and Kindle versions are now on Amazon! Keep scrolling down the page to see all the options to choose from.
Make the beanie and gloves!
These patterns use very basic stitches, making it a great pattern collection for newbies and super quick for those with more experience. The patterns themselves only involve the knit and purl stitch, k2tog, and cabling. I added scannable QR codes to how-to videos to help you along if you are a new knitter or just need a bit of extra help with how to do cable stitches.
If you would like to get the paperback, you can find it on Amazon. Make sure that you select your country so if you are a Prime Member on Amazon, shipping is included in the final price.
The print and Kindle versions are only in English. Other language are not available.
If you’d prefer to print the 3 pattern collection yourself, there are a couple options for you also. You can buy the printable PDF from my Etsy shop here:
I decided to make a new style of bucket hat when I became enamoured with the many granny square hats I was seeing online. While I appreciate the basic granny square, I felt I needed to jazz up the square a bit. I found a very basic flat flower, which I liked, but I knew I could make it a bit nicer with a textured flower and more leaves.
While I wouldn’t say that this is a beginner pattern, I’ve supplied numerous photos to show you how to make all of the more complicated parts.
The hat itself is made to fit adults and is a one size fits most. It’s not too small to fit a larger head (that would be someone like me) but tight enough to be a roomy, easy fit for those with an average size head.out of 100% cotton yarn for comfort, but you can use whatever you prefer, or have on hand.
If you are looking for photos to help you along with the granny square, I made a separate post that will show you how with photos. I didn’t add them here because there are already so many photos, it would make for a behemoth of a post. It’s easier to just do 2. It makes it less of a burden on the server to separate them into different posts. To see the photos along with the written instructions, click this link – Flower and Leaves Granny Square – Easy Crochet Pattern
If you decide to purchase the downloadable PDF or the Kindle or paperback version on Amazon, the photos for everything ARE included in the single publication. If you want the printable copy you can buy it on this website here – Sunny Days Granny Square Bucket Hat, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry and the aforementioned, Amazon in both a Kindle and Paperback versions. If ordering the paperback, make sure you select the correct country. It’s set to USA by default.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That link is to a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Things You Need
4 colours of worsted weight yarn (center, flower, leaves and hat body and brim). I used 100% cotton yarn for breathability in hot temperatures but you can use anything. You will need at least 2 of the smaller balls of cotton yarn for the main colour. I used the yarn that comes in the large balls of cotton yarn for my main colour.
3.5 mm (size E or 4) crochet hook
Stitch markers – spare pieces of yarn will work.
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
Gauge
In DC – double crochet
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
5 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Each square measures approximately 12 cm (4.75 inches) wide.
The Granny Square (make 5)
With your choice of center colour,
Ch 2 making first chain large enough to fit the next 8 sts.
Round 1
8 HDC. Join with sl st at the top of the first ch. Break yarn.
In any HDC, join with sl st. Ch 1 and make it into a large loop. Pull up a large loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO draw through all the loops ion your hook. Ch 2. ♠ In the next HDC, *Pull up a loop. YO* Repeat from * to * 3 times more (total of 4 large loops). Draw through all loops on your hook. Ch 2 ♠ Repeat form ♠ to ♠ around for a total of 8 petals. Join with sl st to the first ch 1 of the first petal. Break yarn. Tie off.
Round 3
With your choice of leaf colour,
Join with sl st in any Ch 2 space. Ch 1 ♣ YO. Draw up a loop as if to make a DC. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on your hook unworked.♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ one more time. YO and draw through the all loops on your hook. (Small middle leaf complete). ▲ Ch 4.. In the next Ch 2 space, ♥ ◘ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop as before. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.◘Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 more times. YO and draw through all 4 loops on your hook. ♥ (1st corner leaf made). Ch 5. Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 1 time staying in the same Ch 5 space of the leaf just made. (2nd corner leaf made). Ch 4. In the next Ch 2 space, Repeat from ♣ to ♣ but repeat 3 times total. (Small middle leaf made).▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ ending with last 2 corner leaves. Ch 4. Join with sl st to the top of 1st small middle leaf. Break yarn. Tie off.
Round 4
With your choice of edging colour,
Join with sl st in the DC of any small middle leaf, Ch 2. ♫ In the next Ch 4 space, (DC, HDC, SC). SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 5 corner space, 5 SC, SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 4 space (SC, HDC, DC) DC in the next 2 sts. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ ending with 1 DC in the next st. Join with sl st in the top of the starting Ch 2.
Round 5
Working evenly over the sts unless otherwise stated, 6 SC, 3 SC in the corner st, ☼ 16 SC, 3 SC in the corner st. ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 2 more times. 8 SC. Join with sl st in starting SC. Break yarn. Tie off.
Make 4 more granny squares. Join squares together to make a circle. You can sew them together or use a sl st along the edges. Make the seam from middle corner SC to the middle corner SC.
With the RIGHT side of the circle facing you, and on either edge, count back 4 sts from any joining seam. Join yarn with a sl st, SC, HDC, DC. Place a st marker at the seam. 18 DC *2DCtog twice. 16 DC. Place st marker on the seam* Repeat from * to * around to the 2 sts before the st marker. Do NOT join! You will now work continuously around the top of the hat.
Count back 4 sts
Join with Sl St, SC, HDC, DC. Place marker.
18 DC
2DCtog in these 2 stitches (decrease)
2DCtog made
2DCtog on other side of the seam
2DCtog at end of round.
Round 2 and beyond
☺ 2DCtog on each side of the st marker. DC to the 2 sts before the st marker. ☺. Repeat around from ☺ to ☺ until there are no sts between the 2DCtog. Make 2DCtog until there are 6 sts left. HDC over 2 sts. (Pull up loop in next 2 sts. YO and draw through all 3 loops on your hook). Join with a sl st in the next st. Break yarn. Tie off. Work in end.
Hat Brim
Round 1
With the RIGHT side of the hat facing you, count back 4 sts from any joining seam. SC, HDC, DC. Place a st marker at the seam. DC around to st marker. Do NOT join but work in continuous rounds.
Round 2
◊ 4 DC 2DC in next st. ◊ Repeat around from ◊ to ◊ to the st marker.
Round 3
8 DC, 2 DC in next st. ♪ 5 DC 2DC in next st. ♪ Repeat around from ♪ to ♪ to the st marker. 2 DC in last st. (don’t worry if your off by a few sts).
Round 4
DC around to the st marker. HDC, SC, sl st in the next st to join. Ch 1. Turn.
Round 5
With the WRONG side facing you, SC around to st marker. Join with sl st in Ch 1. Break yarn. Tie off. Work in ends.
Abbreviations
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
HDC – half double crochet
2DCtog – crochet 2 sts together. Do NOT YO. Pull up a loop in the next st as if to make a SC. Pull up a loop in the next st. YO. Draw through 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the 2 loops on your hook. Decrease made. 2 stitches are now crocheted together.
YO – yarn over
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Hints and Tips
If counts are off for round 5, SC as many sts as you need to get to the middle st of the corner. Make sure the 3 sts in one st are always in the middle st.
There are a lot of ends when you make a multi-coloured granny square. Work the ends in as you crochet. Hold your yarn to the back of your work and catch the end over a few sts while you crochet. There are lots of great videos online that can show how.
If you would like a wider brim on your hat, DC with increases every other row around. End one row of DC without increases and a row of SC.
If the hat is too big or too small, you can always switch up the hook size. Use a smaller hook to make it smaller, and a larger hook for a bigger one. I wouldn’t add or take away a square as they are quite large and will make a big difference in the size. A larger size hook will also make the brim less stiff and more floppy. Please note I can’t help you with sizing if you’ve changed the hook size.
I decided to make a new style of bucket hat when I became enamoured with the many granny square hats I was seeing online. While I appreciate the basic granny square, I felt I needed to jazz up the square a bit. While this square is used in the hat, this particular pattern is for the square only.
What can you do with a square? Pretty much anything. A square can be used as a square of course, like a coaster. It’s when you start adding those squares together that you really can do more. Attached them together to make a scarf, more squares to make a larger square for a pillow. Add a lot of squares and make an afghan. Put them together in creative ways to make the body and sleeves of a sweater, or diagonally and make a bag. Add extra stitches to make a hat, more stitches on one side to make a small purse. It really is only limited by imagination.
Use the Table of Contents tab on the left to go to the next round without scrolling past the photos.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That link is to a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).
Another way to support my work is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area. This pattern is NOT in the member area.
If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Unlike most of my patterns, this one is NOT available as a printable version, yet. I’m planning on developing a collection of granny squares I’m going to make available. And I have a hat pattern I’m working on where this square will be added in full. But for now, you can scroll along and make the square as you go.
Things You Need
4 colours of worsted weight yarn (center, flower, leaves and border)
3.5 mm (size E or 4) crochet hook
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
Gauge
In DC – double crochet
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
5 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Each square measures approximately 12 cm (4.75 inches) wide.
This is a fairly densely packed square with more sts per inch. It’s not very “floppy” and is more stiff. If you are wanting more flexibility in your final project, like a blanket, use a larger hook, like a 5 mm (Size H or 6) or so.
If you are making the hat pattern (coming soon!) you’ll need 5 squares.
The Pattern
With your choice of center colour,
Ch 2 making first chain large enough to fit the next 8 sts.
Round 1
8 HDC. Join with sl st at the top of the first ch. Break yarn.
Round 2
With your choice of flower petal colour,
In any HDC, join with sl st. Ch 1 and make it into a large loop. Pull up a large loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO draw through all the loops ion your hook. Ch 2. ♠ In the next HDC, *Pull up a loop. YO* Repeat from * to * 3 times more (total of 4 large loops). Draw through all loops on your hook. Ch 2 ♠ Repeat form ♠ to ♠ around for a total of 8 petals. Join with sl st to the first ch 1 of the first petal. Break yarn. Tie off.
Pattern continues after photos. Use the Table of Contents tab on the left to go to the next round without scrolling past the photos.
Pull up large loop
Pull up a large loop
YO and pull up a large loop
YO and pull up another loop
YO
Draw through all loops on hook. Ch 2
In next HDC, pull up a loop
YO and pull up loops like you did before
YO and draw through all loops. Ch 2
Round 3
With your choice of leaf colour,
Join with sl st in any Ch 2 space. Ch 1 ♣ YO. Draw up a loop as if to make a DC. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on your hook unworked.♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ one more time. YO and draw through the all loops on your hook. (Small middle leaf complete). ▲ Ch 4.. In the next Ch 2 space, ♥ ◘ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop as before. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.◘Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 more times. YO and draw through all 4 loops on your hook. ♥ (1st corner leaf made). Ch 5. Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 1 time staying in the same Ch 5 space of the leaf just made. (2nd corner leaf made). Ch 4. In the next Ch 2 space, Repeat from ♣ to ♣ but repeat 3 times total. (Small middle leaf made).▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ ending with last 2 corner leaves. Ch 4. Join with sl st to the top of 1st small middle leaf. Break yarn. Tie off.
YO and draw through first 2 loops as if you were going to make a DC. Leave the 2 loops unworked.
YO
Pull up a loop
YO and draw through the 2 loops. Leave remaining loops unworked
YO and draw through all loops on hook. Smaller middle leaf made. Ch 4
YO 3 times
In next ch 2 space, draw up a loop
YO and draw through 1st 2 loops
YO and draw through next 2 loops
YO and draw through next 2 loops. Leave the remaining loops unworked.
In same ch 2 space, YO 3 times to make next “arm” of leaf
YO and draw up a loop. Repeat the leaf “arm” same as last time.
Leave the remaining loops unworked.
Make the 3rd “arm”
YO and draw through the 4 loops on your hook. Ch 5 and make another leaf in this ch 2 space.
Ch 4. YO and draw up loop in next ch 2 space.
Draw up a loop
YO and draw through 2 loops. Leave remaining loops unworked
YO and draw up a loop in same ch 2 space
YO and draw through the 2 loops on hook. Leave remaining st unworked.
YO and draw through all loops on your hook. Ch 4
Round 4
With your choice of edging colour,
Join with sl st in the DC of any small middle leaf, Ch 2. ♫ In the next Ch 4 space, (DC, HDC, SC). SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 5 corner space, 5 SC, SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 4 space (SC, HDC, DC) DC in the next 2 sts. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ ending with 1 DC in the next st. Join with sl st in the top of the starting Ch 2.
Join in this st on ANY small middle leaf
DC, HDC, SC in ch 4 space
SC in next 2 sts
5 SC in ch 5 space between corner leaves
SC next 2 sts
SC, HDC, DC in ch 4 space
DC in next 2 sts of small middle leaf
Round 5
Working evenly over the sts unless otherwise stated Ch 3, 6 DC, 3 DC in the corner st, ☼ 16 DC, 3 DC in the corner st. ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 2 more times. 8 DC. Join with sl st in starting Ch 3. Break yarn. Tie off.
Please note:You can substitute SC for the DC in round 5. Photos of the granny square show the squares with DC edging. If using SC don’t Ch 3.
Abbreviations
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
HDC – half double crochet
YO – yarn over
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Hints and Tips
If counts are off for round 5, DC as many sts as you need to get to the middle st of the corner (I marked it in the photo). Make sure the 3 sts in one st are always in the middle st.
There are a lot of ends when you make a multi-coloured granny square. To help with things, hold your yarn to the back of your work and catch the end over a few sts while you crochet. There are lots of great videos online that can show how.
These colourful, cuffed owl fingerless mitts are made to match my very popular Owl Beanieand Owl Scarf, also knit flat on two needles. You can click the links if you would like to make either one; or both 😉. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page.
I’ve made these owl wrist warmers similar to my original knit flat owl half gloves but with this version, they are knit from the fingers to the wrist cuff. The owls are made from feet to head, matching the aforementioned hat and scarf. There is a slight difference with the appearance of the owls when made from head to feet and I couldn’t live with that. Once you see it you can’t not see it, if you know what I mean.
And since I was doing a redesign, I figured I should make the cuffs match. So I did. I did two versions of the glove. One with a rolled cuff edge (blue and brown) and one without (green). It is clearly marked in the pattern where to stop knitting and cast off depending on the edging you want. And speaking of the final appearance of the granny gloves, there is no reason that these gloves have to match anything. You can also knit them in a single colour. It really is up to you and what look you are after.
To make the thumb gusset blend as much as possible and match on both sides of the thumb, there are different ways to knit and purl the stitches together. It changes whether it is on the left or the right side of the thumb. It is noted how to knit and purl the stitches in the pattern. I’ve also added links to a helpful how-to video to show you how. You don’t have to make the stitches the way I did, but it gives a much better overall look. There’s more about this in the Hints and Tips section.
If casting on the 13 stitches for the thumb or picking up stitches is confusing for you, there is also a video to help you with that too. The link is after the Hints and Tips section.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. The Amazon link goes to the US store. If ordering the paperback, make sure you pick the region where you live!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
4 – 8 mm flat back cabochons or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, The gloves will stretch a bit as the stitches relax.
Right Hand
Cast on 34 sts
◊ Row 1: K across
Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)
Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)
Row 12: P5 K1 P8 K1 P19
Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts K6 C4B C4F K6
If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos below:
Row 14: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P32
Row 15: K35 P4 K8
Row 16: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P14
Row 19: K14 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K8 P4 K8
This is the same video as above but automatically starts at the how to K2tog section.
Row 20: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P28
Row 21: K31 P4 K8
Row 22: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P14.
Row 23: K27 C4B C4F K6
Row 24: P5 K1 P8 K1 P26
Row 25: K14 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K20
Row 26: P5 K1 P8 K1 P24
Row 27: K across
Row 28: P5 K1 P8 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P14
Row 29: K across
Row 30: P5 K1 P8 K1 P22
Row 31: K14 K3tog (from left to right) K6 C4B C4F K6
Row 32: P5 K1 P8 K1 P20
(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)
Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)
Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.
☺ Row39: K across
Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.
Continue with the rest of the pattern if you would like a rolled edge to match the edging of the owl beanie hat. If you don’t like the rolled edge, cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
◘ Row 49: K across
Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.
Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
Thumb
With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.
Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)
Row 5:♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Row 6: K across
Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.
Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)
Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)
Row 12: P19 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 13: K6 C4B C4F K6 Cast on 13 sts K14
Row 14: P32 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 15: K8 P4 K35
Row 16: P14 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 17: K8 P4 K33
Row 18: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 19: K8 P4 K8 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K14
Row 20: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 21: K8 P4 K31
Row 22: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 23: K6 C4B C4F K27
Row 24: P26 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 25: K20 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K14
Row 26: P24 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 27: K across
Row 28: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P5 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 29: K across
Row 30: P22 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 31: K6 C4B C4F K6 K3tog (from left to right) K14
Row 32: P20 K1 P8 K1 P5
(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)
Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)
Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.
☺ Row39: K across
Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.
Continue with the rest of the pattern if you would like a rolled edge to match the edging of the owl beanie hat. If you don’t like the rolled edge, cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
◘ Row 49: K across
Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.
Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
Thumb
With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.
Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)
Row 5:♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Row 6: K across
Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.
Hints and Tips
If you don’t P2tog and K2tog as indicated in the pattern, you’ll end up with one very defined line on one side of the thumb gusset, and a much less refined edge on the other. I tried many combos to make the side of the gusset match. Making the stitches as indicated in the pattern allow for this.
This photo is what the thumb gusset will look like if you knit and purl the stitches without following the instructions.
You don’t need to add the extra garter and ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.
You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.
Watch the Helpful Thumb Video
If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb The video is for a different fingerless glove style, but is a very similar technique.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
P2tog – purl 2 together
K3tog – knit 3 stitches together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Owls seem to hold a draw for a lot of people, myself included. I think there are as many reasons as there are people as to why this happens.
This scarf is made to match my very popular Owl Beanie; also knit flat on two needles. If you can make the scarf, I guarantee that you will be able to make the owl toque, if you haven’t already 😉 You can read that pattern for free on my website here: Knit a Beanie – with OWLS!
And in case you haven’t found it yet, there is also a pattern for the matching owl fingerless gloves! These are also knit flat on 2 needles and are seamed along the side of hand along the little finger side. If you would like to read that pattern, you can find it here – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!
You may be wondering why there is a seam to sew and why this isn’t made in one piece. The owls look a bit different when you make cables from the top (head to feet) and from the bottom (feet to head). Also, the band on the end needs to change from knit stitches (garter) to purl stitches. It’s just all around more complicated than it needs to be. Besides, the seam is nearly invisible and less effort than going through the effort of trying to make the ends match if made in one piece. Trust me. I did try to make it one piece. I even wrote it down as I made it. One out of 10. Do not recommend.
If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Knit Owl Scarf – Knit Flat on 2 Straight Needles, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, and the Kindle version is available onAmazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – either complimentary colours or single colour. How much depends on how long you want to make the scarf and if you want fringe.
5 mm (Size 8 US) single pointed knitting needles
4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed needles (optional but strongly suggested)
Cable needle
Crochet hook (for fringe. Size doesn’t matter as long as you can use it for yarn)
Tapestry needle to sew seam and work in ends
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Gauge isn’t really important, but if you are making the beanie or hat to match, you’ll want the gauge to be the same as the hat.
The scarf is one size fits all.
The Pattern
Cast on 40 sts with the 4 mm needles (you don’t have to use the smaller needles but it helps keep the starting edge from splaying out wider than the scarf).
♠ Row 1: Knit (If using the smaller size needles, switch to the 5 mm needles. Only knit the 1st row with the smaller size needles. All subsequent repeats are done with the size 5 mm needle).
Row 2: (K1 P2) until 1 st remains. K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7if desired.)
To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can click that link or watch tis video.
Row 7-11: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)
Row 12 ♦ K1 P2 K1 P8 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 more times.. K1 P2 K1
Row 13: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4
If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos.
Row 14: ♥ K1 P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 more times. K1 P2 K1
Row 15 K6 ☺ P4 K8 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once. P4 K6
Row 16: As row 14
Row 17: As row 15
Row 18: As row 14
Row 19: As row 15
Row 20: As row 14
Row 21: As row 15
Row 22: As row 14
Row 23: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4
Row 24: ♦ K1 P2 K1 P8 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 more times.. K1 P2 K1
Row 25: Knit
Row 26: As row 24
Row 27: Knit
Row 28: As row 24
Row 29: Knit
Row 30: As row 24
Row 31: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4
Row 32: as row 24 (Change colour at the START of row 33if desired.)
Row 33 – 36: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 37if desired.)
▲ ♠ Row 37: Knit
Row 38: (K1 P2) until 1 st remains. K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows.
Row 47 – 50: Knit. ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ as many times as you want. REMEMBER – make it HALF as long as you want the final scarf. See further suggestions in the Hints and Tips section.
When making the last repeat finish with Row 48. Cast of on the RIGHT side.
Sew the seam to join the two halves. When joining leave a length of yarn on one of the halves to use to sew this seam.
When making the seam, pull the sides together so they are snug but not tight. There is a bit of slack naturally between the rows of garter stitch. You want to mimic this as closely as possible.
To join the ends, you’ll work between the cast off edge and row 48. You can see in the photo some previously joined stitches. Note where the yarn end is coming out.
With your tapestry needle, pick up the bar that is between the bump of the stitch and the cast off row.
Pull snug.
Pick up the bar that is between the cast off row and the bump of the stitch.
Continue down the length of the seam. It should look like the other garter bands on the scarf. You can pull the two ends apart a bit to get the stitches to even out the tension along the seam.
Making the Fringe
This is optional. If you are not a fringe person, don’t add a fringe. You may prefer a different style of fringe than what I did. Whatever you prefer is perfect.
When you switched from the smaller 4 mm needles to the larger, there became a bend at the end. Along that bend are stitches that run along the bottom. These are perfect for adding the fringe.
I preferred to make the fringe with one strand drawn through. You may want more strands and alternate with every other stitch. There are a lot of fringe tutorials and variations online that you may like more. It’s worth taking a look. Regardless, I’ve provided the instructions to show you how I made my fringe.
Cut lengths of yarn for twice the length you want your fringe. Insert your crochet hook in one stitch from the wrong side to the front. Fold one length of yarn in half. Catch with the crochet hook and pull part way through the stitch.
Catch the 2 ends of the yarn and pull through the loop on your hook. Pull the ends snug.
Repeat down the length of the edge.
Hints and Tips
You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.
Because this is meant to be flat you’ll need to block or press it. Use your method of preference. A few tips on pressing – make a test piece to see how your yarn will react and adjust accordingly. I used acrylic yarns for my demo pieces. I made sure my iron was set to a low temperature. I then used a spray bottle to wet it on the WRONG side. I then pressed carefully on the WRONG side. Check the front as you press to make sure it isn’t flattening the stitches more than you want.
Your scarf halves don’t have to be the same length. If you know there is a particular way you want to wear it, such as very long, wrapped once around your neck and the ends hanging down, you may want the seam on one side instead of the middle, right in the front.
I made my brown scarf as an equal divide. I repeated from ▲ to ▲ 12 times more for a total of 13 sections. It’s long enough to wrap around my neck and dangle on each side just like in the photo.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
For this version of my fingerless gloves, I’m doing something different. Instead of starting at the cuff, I’m starting at the fingers and working to the cuff. Why? Because I’m starting to design gloves with 3D animals, characters, figures, designs, etc. Sometimes these figures can only be made from the bottom up and to do this, I needed to design a basic fingerless glove pattern. Because most of the figures are done with stockinette stitches, I wanted the figures to stand out even more. So, I designed the glove to be done with a garter stitch to contrast with the stockinette.
Whew! That was a lot of extra info you probably didn’t want. But now that you know the plan, you can check out my website to see when I start publishing the new gloves. It could be right away. It could be 6 months. We’ll see how it goes… (FYI I already did 😊 You can check out the hippo fingerless gloves by clicking the link – Super Cute Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mitts – FREE Knitting Pattern.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Basic Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy👈🏼 (40% off on Etsy until the end of March). The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. If a link isn’t working I either haven’t formatted and published it on that retailer, I am waiting for approval, or I forgot to come back and add the link.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. The seam runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches.
Things You Need
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
Size 4 mm (size 6 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
In garter stitch
20 rows = 5 cm or 2.5 inches
9 sts = 5 cm or 2.5 inches
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). I don’t usually design extra large gloves, but you’re smart. You can extrapolate from the sizes I’ve given. Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.
RIGHT Hand
Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)
Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K12 (14, 16, 18) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts. Click this link if you need help with casting on.
Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥
Row 34 – 36: Knit across
For the LARGE and X-LARGE
Next row: K0 (0, 16, 18) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts )
♥ Next 13 rows: K across
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
With the RIGHT side facing
Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat for a total of 10 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch the video below or click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.
Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥
Row 34 – 36: Knit across
For the LARGE and X-LARGE
Next row: K0 (0, 21, 22) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts )
♥ Next 13 rows: K across
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
With the RIGHT side facing
Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat for a total of 10 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
Hints and Tips
If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥ If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.
If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are don with the K1 P2 ribbing sections.
You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.
Watch the Helpful Video
If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
I really do like how well the owl motif worked on this hat! And surprisingly didn’t take much figuring or math once I wrote out the Basic Knit Flat Beanie. I did have to play around with how many rows tall to make the body and head. I didn’t figure it would stretch as much as it does but I’m happy with the final proportions.
And in case you haven’t found it on the website yet, I have a pair of fingerless gloves that have the same owl motif. There is the knit flat owl gloves that were designed specifically to match this beanie. There is also owl gloves that are knit in the round. The cuffs aren’t a perfect match but are seamless.
And happy day! The matching scarf pattern is done ☺️ If you would like to get started on the entire matching set, you can read the free, ad supported knitted scarf pattern here: How to Knit a Scarf – with OWLS! FREE Knitting Pattern
And for the last announcement, there is also a bucket hat with owls you can make! 🦉If you would like to make the summer version with a brim, click this link – Knit Flat Bucket Hat – with OWLS! Free Knitting Pattern. If you would like to make a beanie winter hat with mushrooms 🍄 instead of owls, I’ve got that too. Here’s that link – Mushroom Beanie Winter Hat
This owl hat knit pattern is a fairly easy project to make if you have some knitting experience. I designed it to be flat, knit on 2 straight needles so more people would be comfortable in making it. Though the cabling can look intimidating, it really isn’t. I have videos on YouTube that will show you how if you’ve never done it before. I embedded videos in the pattern to help you along.
Make the beanie and gloves!
The choice of colour is yours as always. I included where to change colours if you would like to make one with 3 colours like I did for the brown and beige version I made. If you’re making a solid colour toque, you can ignore the notifications in the pattern.
As far as the use of a pom pom on the top… Some love it, some hate it. I know for myself, if I have to put my hood up, I hate them, but aesthetically, they do have their charms NGL. I have more information in the Hints and Tips section about the pom pom on the white and blue beanie.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)
5 mm (Size 8 US) single pointed knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
14 or 16 buttons or jewels for eyes (see Hints and Tips)
Pom pom – you can make or buy these, or not use one at all.
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
Small and medium = 21 inches (53 cm) around
Large and Extra large = 24.5 inches (62 cm) around
Uses about 160 meters or 180 yards. Does NOT include pom-pom.
This pattern makes either 7 or 8 owls around. Each owl motif is about 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) wide if you follow the gauge given. You can adjust your stitches accordingly to make larger or smaller sizes than what I’ve given. Each owl motif uses 12 stitches. So, if you wanted it smaller by one owl cast on 74 sts (86 – 12 = 74)
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Beanie Hat. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
The Pattern
Cast on 86 (98) sts
♠ Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 11if desired.)
To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can click that link or watch the video here.
Row 11-15: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 15 if desired.)
Row 16: ♦ P2 K1 P8 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 2 sts. P2
Row 17: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2
If you don’t know how to cable you can watch these videos to show you how.
Row 18: ♥ P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ to the last 2 sts. P2
Row 19: K5 ☺ P4 K8 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to☺ 5 (6) times more. P4 K5
Row 20: As row 18
Row 21: As row 19
Row 22: As row 18
Row 23: As row 19
Row 24: As row 18
Row 25: As row 19
Row 26: As row 18
Row 27: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 28: ♦ P2 K1 P8 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 2 sts. P2.
Row 29: Knit
Row 30: As row 28
Row 31: Knit
Row 32: As row 28
Row 33: Knit
Row 34: As row 28
Row 35: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 36: as row 28 (Change colour at the START of row 37if desired.)
Row 37 – 40: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 41if desired.)
▲ Row 41: Knit
Row 42: ◘ P2 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ tot he last 2 sts. P2 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ for a total
of 22 (26) rows.
Next row: ♣ K2tog K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2tog
Next row: ◘ P1 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ to the last st. P1
Next row: K2tog to the end of the row.
Next row: P across
Next row: K2tog to the last st. K1
Next row: P across
Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam using the blanket stitch. Add a pom-pom to the top if you like.
I used repurposed yarn for the pom pom on the white toque with the blue banding. Unraveling the slippers I had originally made, it left the wool in the crinkly state that occurs. I haven’t washed it so I don’t know if the fluffy/fuzzy look will stay, but I certainly do like the effect it gave to the final pom pom.
If you are using multiple colours for your toque, I suggest you Work in the Ends While You Knit. It saves you time in the long run. You can either click the link or take a photo of the QR code below to learn how.
Sew the seam using a blanket stitch to make it as invisible as possible. I added enough stitches along the sides so you can do this.
You can make the beanie fit closer to the crown of the head by not doing as many repeats of rows 41 and 42. You can also make it longer (taller and floppy) by doing more.
You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
