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How to Knit a Scarf – with OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knitted scarf with owls - free knitting pattern

Owls seem to hold a draw for a lot of people, myself included. I think there are as many reasons as there are people as to why this happens. 

This scarf is made to match my very popular Owl Beanie; also knit flat on two needles. If you can make the scarf, I guarantee that you will be able to make the owl toque, if you haven’t already 😉 You can read that pattern for free on my website here: Knit a Beanie – with OWLS!

And in case you haven’t found it yet, there is also a pattern for the matching owl fingerless gloves! These are also knit flat on 2 needles and are seamed along the side of hand along the little finger side. If you would like to read that pattern, you can find it here – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!

scarf knitting pattern
Knit a scarf - with owls
Knit a scarf - with owls
Knit scarf pattern - with owls
how to knit a scarf
scarf knitting pattern
Knit scarf pattern - with owls
Knit scarf pattern - with owls
scarf knitting pattern
scarf knitting pattern
Knit scarf pattern - with owls
Knit a scarf - with owls

You may be wondering why there is a seam to sew and why this isn’t made in one piece. The owls look a bit different when you make cables from the top (head to feet) and from the bottom (feet to head). Also, the band on the end needs to change from knit stitches (garter) to purl stitches. It’s just all around more complicated than it needs to be. Besides, the seam is nearly invisible and less effort than going through the effort of trying to make the ends match if made in one piece. Trust me. I did try to make it one piece. I even wrote it down as I made it. One out of 10. Do not recommend. 

If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Knit Owl Scarf – Knit Flat on 2 Straight Needles, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, and the Kindle version is available on Amazon. If the links aren’t working, they will be soon. I’m still formatting 😀

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

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If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – either complimentary colours or single colour. How much depends on how long you want to make the scarf and if you want fringe.

5 mm (Size 8 US) single pointed knitting needles

4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed needles (optional but strongly suggested)

Cable needle

Crochet hook (for fringe. Size doesn’t matter as long as you can use it for yarn)

Tapestry needle to sew seam and work in ends

Gauge

In stockinette

9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Gauge isn’t really important, but if you are making the beanie or hat to match, you’ll want the gauge to be the same as the hat. 

The scarf is one size fits all.

The Pattern

Cast on 40 sts with the 4 mm needles (you don’t have to use the smaller needles but it helps keep the starting edge from splaying out wider than the scarf).

♠ Row 1: Knit (If using the smaller size needles, switch to the 5 mm needles. Only knit the 1st row with the smaller size needles. All subsequent repeats are done with the size 5 mm needle).

Row 2: (K1 P2) until 1 st remains. K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.) 

To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can click that link or watch tis video.

Row 7-11: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)

Row 12 ♦ K1 P2 K1 P8 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 more times.. K1 P2 K1

Row 13: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4

If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos.

Row 14: ♥ K1 P2 K1 P2 K4 P2  ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 more times. K1 P2 K1

Row 15 K6 ☺ P4 K8 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once. P4 K6

Row 16: As row 14

Row 17: As row 15

Row 18: As row 14

Row 19: As row 15

Row 20: As row 14

Row 21: As row 15

Row 22: As row 14

Row 23: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4

Row 24: ♦ K1 P2 K1 P8 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 more times.. K1 P2 K1

Row 25: Knit

Row 26: As row 24

Row 27: Knit

Row 28: As row 24

Row 29: Knit

Row 30: As row 24

Row 31: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4

Row 32: as row 24 (Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)

Row 33 – 36: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)

▲ ♠ Row 37: Knit

Row 38: (K1 P2) until 1 st remains. K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows.

Row 47 – 50: Knit. ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ as many times as you want. REMEMBER – make it  HALF as long as you want the final scarf. See further suggestions in the Hints and Tips section.

When making the last repeat finish with Row 48. Cast of on the RIGHT side.

Cast off.

Make another half to match.

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Sewing the Seam

Sew the seam to join the two halves. When joining leave a length of yarn on one of the halves to use to sew this seam.

When making the seam, pull the sides together so they are snug but not tight. There is a bit of slack naturally between the rows of garter stitch. You want to mimic this as closely as possible.

To join the ends, you’ll work between the cast off edge and row 48. You can see in the photo some previously joined stitches. Note where the yarn end is coming out.

With your tapestry needle, pick up the bar that is between the bump of the stitch and the cast off row.

Pull snug.

Pick up the bar that is between the cast off row and the bump of the stitch.

Continue down the length of the seam. It should look like the other garter bands on the scarf. You can pull the two ends apart a bit to get the stitches to even out the tension along the seam.

Making the Fringe

This is optional. If you are not a fringe person, don’t add a fringe. You may prefer a different style of fringe than what I did. Whatever you prefer is perfect.

When you switched from the smaller 4 mm needles to the larger, there became a bend at the end. Along that bend are stitches that run along the bottom. These are perfect for adding the fringe.

I preferred to make the fringe with one strand drawn through. You may want more strands and alternate with every other stitch. There are a lot of fringe tutorials and variations online that you may like more. It’s worth taking a look. Regardless, I’ve provided the instructions to show you how I made my fringe.

Cut lengths of yarn for twice the length you want your fringe. Insert your crochet hook in one stitch from the wrong side to the front. Fold one length of yarn in half. Catch with the crochet hook and pull part way through the stitch. 

Catch the 2 ends of the yarn and pull through the loop on your hook. Pull the ends snug. 

Repeat down the length of the edge.

Hints and Tips

You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.

Because this is meant to be flat you’ll need to block or press it. Use your method of preference. A few tips on pressing – make a test piece to see how your yarn will react and adjust accordingly. I used acrylic yarns for my demo pieces. I made sure my iron was set to a low temperature. I then used a spray bottle to wet it on the WRONG side. I then pressed carefully on the WRONG side. Check the front as you press to make sure it isn’t flattening the stitches more than you want. 

Your scarf halves don’t have to be the same length. If you know there is a particular way you want to wear it, such as very long, wrapped once around your neck and the ends hanging down, you may want the seam on one side instead of the middle, right in the front.

I made my brown scarf as an equal divide. I repeated from ▲ to ▲ 12 times more for a total of 13 sections. It’s long enough to wrap around my neck and dangle on each side just like in the photo.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward. 

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

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Easy To Knit Fingerless Gloves – Knit Flat On Straight Needles

Knit fingerless gloves - knit flat on straight needles

For this version of my fingerless gloves, I’m doing something different. Instead of starting at the cuff, I’m starting at the fingers and working to the cuff. Why? Because I’m starting to design gloves with 3D animals, characters, figures, designs, etc. Sometimes these figures can only be made from the bottom up and to do this, I needed to design a basic fingerless glove pattern. Because most of the figures are done with stockinette stitches, I wanted the figures to stand out even more. So, I designed the glove to be done with a garter stitch to contrast with the stockinette.

Whew! That was a lot of extra info you probably didn’t want. But now that you know the plan, you can check out my website to see when I start publishing the new gloves. It could be right away. It could be 6 months. We’ll see how it goes… (FYI I already did 😊 You can check out the hippo fingerless gloves by clicking the link – Super Cute Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mitts – FREE Knitting Pattern.

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Basic Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy 👈🏼 (40% off on Etsy until the end of March). The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. If a link isn’t working I either haven’t formatted and published it on that retailer, I am waiting for approval, or I forgot to come back and add the link.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

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If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.

Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. The seam runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches. 

Things You Need

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.

Size 4 mm (size 6 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Gauge

In garter stitch

20 rows = 5 cm or 2.5 inches

9 sts = 5 cm or 2.5 inches

To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). I don’t usually design extra large gloves, but you’re smart. You can extrapolate from the sizes I’ve given. Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.

hand sizing for knitting

RIGHT Hand 

Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1. 

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K12 (14, 16, 18) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts. Click this link if you need help with casting on.

Row 14 – 16: Knit across

Row 17: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K9 (9, 11, 11,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 42 (45, 50, 53) sts

Row 18 – 20: Knit across

Row 21: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K7 (7, 9, 9,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 40 (43, 48, 51) sts

Row 22 – 24: Knit across

Row 25: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K5 (5, 7, 7,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 38 (41, 46, 49) sts

Row 26 – 28: Knit across

Row 29: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K3 (3, 5, 5,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 36 (39, 44, 47) sts 

Row 30 – 32: Knit across

Row 33: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K1 (1, 3, 3,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 42, 45) sts  

Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥

Row 34 – 36: Knit across

For the LARGE and X-LARGE 

Next row: K0 (0, 16, 18) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts  ) 

♥ Next 13 rows: K across

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

With the RIGHT side facing

Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat for a total of 10 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch the video below or click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

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LEFT Hand 

Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K19 (20, 21, 22) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts Click this link if you need help with casting on.

Row 14 – 16: Knit across

Row 17: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K9 (9, 11, 11,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 42 (45, 50, 53) sts

Row 18 – 20: Knit across

Row 21: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K7 (7, 9, 9,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 40 (43, 48, 51) sts

Row 22 – 24: Knit across

Row 25: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K5 (5, 7, 7,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 38 (41, 46, 49) sts

Row 26 – 28: Knit across

Row 29: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K3 (3, 5, 5,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 36 (39, 44, 47) sts 

Row 30 – 32: Knit across

Row 33: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K1 (1, 3, 3,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 42, 45) sts  

Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥

Row 34 – 36: Knit across

For the LARGE and X-LARGE 

Next row: K0 (0, 21, 22) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts  ) 

♥ Next 13 rows: K across

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

With the RIGHT side facing 

Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat for a total of 10 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

Hints and Tips

If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥  If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.

If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are don with the  K1 P2 ribbing sections.

You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.

Watch the Helpful Video

If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.  

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How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knit Owl Beanie Hat - FREE Knitting Pattern

I really do like how well the owl motif worked on this hat! And surprisingly didn’t take much figuring or math once I wrote out the Basic Knit Flat Beanie. I did have to play around with how many rows tall to make the body and head. I didn’t figure it would stretch as much as it does but I’m happy with the final proportions.

And in case you haven’t found it on the website yet, I have a pair of fingerless gloves that have the same owl motif. There is the knit flat owl gloves that were designed specifically to match this beanie. There is also owl gloves that are knit in the round. The cuffs aren’t a perfect match but are seamless.

And happy day! The matching scarf pattern is done ☺️ If you would like to get started on the entire matching set, you can read the free, ad supported knitted scarf pattern here: How to Knit a Scarf – with OWLS! FREE Knitting Pattern

This owl hat knit pattern is a fairly easy project to make if you have some knitting experience. I designed it to be flat, knit on 2 straight needles so more people would be comfortable in making it. Though the cabling can look intimidating, it really isn’t. I have videos on YouTube that will show you how if you’ve never done it before. I embedded videos in the pattern to help you along.

Make the beanie and gloves!

The choice of colour is yours as always. I included where to change colours if you would like to make one with 3 colours like I did for the brown and beige version I made. If you’re making a solid colour toque, you can ignore the notifications in the pattern.

As far as the use of a pom pom on the top… Some love it, some hate it. I know for myself, if I have to put my hood up, I hate them, but aesthetically, they do have their charms NGL. I have more information in the Hints and Tips section about the pom pom on the white and blue beanie.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)

5 mm (Size 8 US) single pointed knitting needles

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

14 or 16 buttons or jewels for eyes (see Hints and Tips)

Pom pom – you can make or buy these, or not use one at all.

Gauge

In stockinette

9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizes are written as such:

S-M (L-XL)

Small and medium = 21 inches (53 cm) around

Large and Extra large = 24.5 inches (62 cm) around

Uses about 160 meters or 180 yards. Does NOT include pom-pom.

This pattern makes either 7 or 8 owls around. Each owl motif is about 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) wide if you follow the gauge given. You can adjust your stitches accordingly to make larger or smaller sizes than what I’ve given. Each owl motif uses 12 stitches. So, if you wanted it smaller by one owl cast on 74 sts (86 – 12 = 74)

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Beanie Hat. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

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Become a Patron on Patreon

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.

The Pattern

Cast on 86 (98) sts

♠ Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.) 

To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can click that link or watch the video here.

Row 11-15: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 15 if desired.)

Row 16: ♦ P2 K1 P8 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 2 sts. P2

Row 17: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2

If you don’t know how to cable you can watch these videos to show you how.

Row 18: ♥ P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ to the last 2 sts. P2

Row 19: K5 ☺ P4 K8 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to☺ 5 (6) times more. P4 K5

Row 20: As row 18

Row 21: As row 19

Row 22: As row 18

Row 23: As row 19

Row 24: As row 18

Row 25: As row 19

Row 26: As row 18

Row 27: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2

Row 28: ♦ P2 K1 P8 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 2 sts. P2.

Row 29: Knit

Row 30: As row 28

Row 31: Knit

Row 32: As row 28

Row 33: Knit

Row 34: As row 28

Row 35: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2

Row 36: as row 28 (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)

Row 37 – 40: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 41 if desired.)

▲ Row 41: Knit

Row 42: ◘ P2 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ tot he last 2 sts. P2 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ for a total 

of 22 (26) rows.

Next row: ♣ K2tog K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2tog

Next row: ◘ P1 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ to the last st. P1

Next row: K2tog to the end of the row.

Next row: P across

Next row: K2tog to the last st. K1

Next row: P across

Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam using the blanket stitch. Add a pom-pom to the top if you like.

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Hints and Tips

I used repurposed yarn for the pom pom on the white toque with the blue banding. Unraveling the slippers I had originally made, it left the wool in the crinkly state that occurs. I haven’t washed it so I don’t know if the fluffy/fuzzy look will stay, but I certainly do like the effect it gave to the final pom pom.

If you are using multiple colours for your toque, I suggest you Work in the Ends While You Knit. It saves you time in the long run. You can either click the link or take a photo of the QR code below to learn how.

Sew the seam using a blanket stitch to make it as invisible as possible. I added enough stitches along the sides so you can do this.

You can make the beanie fit closer to the crown of the head by not doing as many repeats of rows 41 and 42. You can also make it longer (taller and floppy) by doing more. 

You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward. 

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back

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Crocheted Sun Hat and Bucket Hat – FREE Crochet Pattern

Crochet hat pattern - sun hat bucket hat cowboy hat

Gussy it up or wear it plain, this crocheted hat pattern is extremely versatile and makes hats for nearly anyone. Anyone but my 14 year old son apparently, who said, with his usual unenthusiastic honesty, “I don’t like it but it fits OK”. How do I know this? I needed to borrow his head to see how the smaller size fit and felt when wearing, so I guess it’s at least fit approved ¯\_(‘~’)_/¯

This hat can be made a number of ways, either as a wider brimmed sun hat with a flower, plain with the brim shaped similar to a cowboy/cowgirl hat, or with a narrower brim to be a bucket hat. Any way you choose is going to be a success! It’s easy to make, and as long as you know the basics of crochet. Literally if you know how to chain, single crochet (sc) and do a slip stitch (sl st), you’ll be able to make the hat. The flower can be a bit more tricky but I’ve included many photos and detailed descriptions to help you along.

Crochet cowboy hat - free crochet pattern

The hat is made with 2 strands worsted weight yarn (or one strand of super bulky yarn) and a larger crochet hook. The stitches need to be fairly tight so the hat will hold it’s shape. Anything larger than the gauge given will make it floppy and the sizing may not work out as written. But, like all my patterns, play with it! If you want a floppy hat, no one said you can’t.

There aren’t any specific measurements for the hat sizing. It’s all very general as there is some stretch to the hat when finished and will form to fit the head it’s covering. If you want your hat to fit a little looser, go for the bigger size. 

The way I thought of it when I was designing this hat, if it fit the glass head, it’s a small/medium size. In other words, a regular sized head. If it fits me and looks a little too big on the glass head, it’s a large/extra large. Let me put it this way. I know I have a big head. If you have ever thought you too might have a big head because hats don’t always fit you, hello fellow large head! If this statement makes no sense to you, go for the small/medium.

If you are looking to make the flower and the leaves, they each have their own page on the website. This pattern turned into a bit of a beast as it is. Both patterns are included with the printable PDF version of the sun and bucket hat.

Crochet Flower Pattern
Crochet Leaf Pattern

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

If you would like to avoid the ads on this page or would like to print the pattern, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee from this website at Sun Hat with Gorgeous Flower or Simple Bucket Hat – Printable Crochet Pattern, through my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts or on Ravelry.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

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Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

Small/Medium
Large/Extra Large

Abbreviations

Ch – chain

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble crochet

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Things You Need:

6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook (or what ever size hook you need to get the correct gauge)

3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook for top edging, flowers and leaves (all optional)

2 balls Worsted Weight yarn or 1 ball Super Bulky yarn (for the hat itself)

For the sun hat you’l need:

106 gr or 3.7 oz each of the worsted weight colours (216 m or 237 yards)

or

173 gr or 6 oz Super Bulky yarn (170 m or 185 yards) of course it’s less yarn for the bucket hat.

Worsted weight yarn (for band, flowers, leaves and edging)

Stitch markers (at least 8 but it never hurts to have more. See Hints and Tips section)

Tapestry needle (to sew band and flowers, work in the ends)

Gauge

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn

13 sts = 4”

14 rows = 4”

Check your gauge to obtain correct sizing and density of the final fabric created. The stitching needs to be tight to hold the hat shape.

Small/Medium

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…

Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)

Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.

Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)

Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. 

Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)

Round 8: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (66 sts)

Round 9: Sc around in the back loop.

Crochet in back of loop
Crochet in back of loop

Round 10-20: Sc around.

Round 21: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (77 sts)

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch). 

  • If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!

Round 22: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sc in the last st. (or crochet as many stitches as you have at the end of the round). (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).

Round 23: 4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around (Crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round but there should be 0).

Round 24: *10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. 2sc (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round). 

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 31.

Round 25: 5sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 8sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

Round 26: Sc around.

Round 27: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.

Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.

Round 28: Sc around.

Round 29: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around. 

Round 30: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.

Round 31: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Top or Crown Edging (Optional)

With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn…

In the loops left from Round 9, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Work in all ends.

Large/Extra Large 

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…

Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)

Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.

Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)

Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. 

Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)

Round 8: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (63 sts)

Round 9: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (70 sts)

Round 10: Sc around in the back loop. 

Crochet in back of loop
Crochet in back loop

Round 11-23: Sc around.

Round 24: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (84 sts)

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch). 

  • If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!

Round 25: *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to the beginning of the row. (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).

Round 26: 6sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 5sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

Round 27: *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 3 more times. 

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 34.

Round 28: 6sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *12sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 13sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 7sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

Round 29: Sc around.

Round 30: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.

Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.

Round 31: Sc around.

Round 32: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around. 

Round 33: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.

Round 34: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a sl st. Tie off and break yarn.

Top or Crown Edging (Optional)

With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn…

In the loops left from Round 10, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Work in all ends.

Band (Optional)

With a single strand of worsted weight yarn and your large 6mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook: 

Small/Medium – Chain 74 

Large/Extra Large – Chain 79

In second chain from hook, sc in each chain. Bring the ends of the band together and sc in the first sc of previous row. Be sure not to twist. We are now working in rounds. 

Round 2-3: Sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Working in the bottom loop of the original chains…

Work 3 rounds of sc evenly. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn. Work in ends. Attach to the hat sewing the bottom edge of the band to where the brim joins the hat.

Add flowers or other embellishments of your choice.

Click a button to go to the flowers and leaf patterns

Crochet Flower Pattern
Crochet Leaf Pattern

Hints and Tips

Colour choice of the 2 different worsted weight yarns can make a huge difference to your final hat. I mixed 2 tones of one colour for the cowboy/cowgirl hat, white and beige for the yellow flower hat, camo and black for the camo bucket hat. Variegated yarns should be used with a solid colour of yarn for the best effect.

Stitch markers make this so much easier. Pieces of yarn also work. I like to use a single bobby pin to note where the round starts and use regular stitch markers for where I’m making the increases. 

Using stitch markers for the sun hat

In regards to the stitch markers, if you don’t want to use the stitch counts given for the rows, you can use the stitch markers instead. Think of it as increase 8 times evenly around. I did the math to figure out what was even spacing and to stagger the increases between the rows around the brim for the crochet purists.

I like to move my start of the round stitch marker as I make each row (the bobby pin in the photos). I leave the increases for the brim where they are. It makes things go a little quicker and avoids keeping track of stitch counts.

Speaking of stitch counts. This is crocheted in the round, meaning if your stitch counts become a little off, too many or not enough between the increases, it will still work out in the long run. I gave the number of stitches between the increases mainly to avoid repeating increases along the brim. It looked very noticeable and unsightly to me when the increases in increases lined up, but I’m a bit of a stickler for things like that. If you could care less how it look, have at it!

Edging is done with worsted weight yarn! If you are using a double strand of worsted weight yarn, select one of the colours and go with that. If you are using Super Bulky yarn, you’ll need to use any complimentary colour of worsted weight yarn you like. You don’t need very much.

Why I made the band the way I did. It’s very easy to twist the band if you join the chain right away. It’s considerably easier to avoid this if you sc in each chain first then bring the ends together.

The cowboy/cowgirl hat is the sun hat but with the brim formed into a more familiar cowboy hat style. 

Crochet cowboy hat - free crochet pattern

The band on the cowboy/cowgirl hat has daisy chain embellishments. You can either embroider them on or use your crochet hook. Place your yarn at the back of the band and pull up a loop to the front. Push your hook through the next hole and pull up a loop. Keep going down the length of the band.

Crochet band for the cowboy and sun hat

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

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FREE Knitting Pattern – Ultra Thick Slip-On Bootie Slippers

Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - dark green

The ultimate thick slipper knit with super bulky yarn on straight needles. These booties for adults (up to a man’s size 14) knit up quicker than the average slipper and are super cozy and long-lasting for the wearer. Who could ask for anything more? Ummmm, maybe a finished pair??? You can order a custom colour and size here – Double Thick Hand Knit Slippers

Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - dark green
Bulky Slippers Knit on straight needles - peach
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - dark green
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky Slippers Knit on straight needles - peach
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - dark green
Bulky Slippers Knit on straight needles - peach
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - flecked
Bulky Slippers Knit on straight needles - peach
Bulky Slippers Knit on straight needles - peach
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers
Bulky yarn Slippers Knit on straight needles - Multi-colored flecked slippers

This pattern is the extra thick version of my Adult Moccasin Slippers pattern that has been so popular over the years. As a seller of slippers, many of my customers wanted extra thick versions. Who doesn’t want their slippers to last as long as possible, am I right? So I busted out my knitting needles and a pencil to redo the math. Now you can make the slippers with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, or one strand of super bulky yarn. Take your pick. But please note, you don’t need both. Choose one or the other.

And a note about the toe flap, this version uses a stockinette toe flap instead of a garter stitch. It was too thick and lumpy to be a garter stitch. But to make my life easier, I repurposed the photos from my original Moccasin Slipper pattern that has the toe flap as a garter stitch. I’m sorry if it causes any confusion. The technique to pick up stitches along he sides is exactly the same for both versions.

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Ultra Thick Slip-On Bootie Slippers. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The paperback and Kindle version are also on Amazon.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Become a Member
Become a Patron on Patreon

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.

This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos and a how-to video to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me. You can use this link – How to Knit Moccasin Slippers. The only differences between this pattern and the demo video is the toe flap is done in stockinette and of course, double thick (or extra thick) yarn. The techniques are all the same.

There is a lot of breaking and reconnecting the yarn to create the different portions of the slipper: the cuff, toe, sides and sole. I’ve created a very succinct picture tutorial showing how to work in the ends as you go so there are fewer to sew in at the end. If you do it right, you’ll only have one, and that’s the length you leave at the end to sew up the heel seam. Here’s the link to see how – Working in the Ends While Knitting. This also a handy skill to have when knitting just about anything, tbh. 

Things You Need

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.

Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) standard balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.

or 

Super Bulky yarn – 2 standard balls of ONE colour with matching lot numbers (90 yards/82 m). 

One ball makes one slipper. There will be yarn left over from each ball.

2 sets of size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Stitch holder

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

13 sts – 10 cm (4″) 

22 rows – 10 cm (4”) 

Sizes are written as such:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

To Begin

Cast on 32 (34, 36, 38, 40)

ᴥ Row 1: Knit across 

Row 2: Purl across ᴥ Repeat from ᴥ to ᴥ for 6 times more for a total of 8 rows.

☺ Row 9: Knit across

Row 10: Knit 11 (12, 13, 14,15) P10 Knit 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ one more time for a total of 4 rows.

Toe Flap

Row 13: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 10 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 10 toe flap stitches only!

♠ Next row: Knit across 

Next row: Purl across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more for 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) rows total.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 10 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 10 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches. Pick up 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on  ONE needle. (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, knit the 10 stitches of the toe flap. (10 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12,13, 14, 15) stitches on the next needle. (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) stitches on this needle)

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. As mentioned in the introduction, the photos have been repurposed from the original pattern. Your toe flap has less stitches across and is in stockinette. 

You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

How to knit slippers
I used a double pointed needle to work my 10 stitches
for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 10 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) rows

There are 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

Knit 1 more row, if required, so the WRONG side is facing you.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 9 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video below

The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. The video is for the original pattern, but is done EXACTLY the same way for this pattern.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (10 stitches).

Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle. This is the hardest of all the stitches to pick up.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (10 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Starting the sole. Right side
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. 
Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.

Making the Heel

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video by using this link – https://youtu.be/ZZ93FyF4qDIsi=FW0lLCLWZqOEIPSe&t=624

The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. Once again, this is from the original pattern, but the technique is done EXACTLY the same way.

More of My Stuff on Etsy


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.

Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (8 stitches).

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper. 
Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above
After you K2tog across, you’ll pick up a stitch here.
Stitch picked up at the end of the row.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch around the edge of the foot and sole, allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

If you want a straight or longer cuff at the top like in the original pattern, knit across on the right and wrong side for a garter stitch at the beginning after you cast on. 

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge. Theres a little knot nub along the edges that make it a bit easier to space evenly along.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.

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How to Knit Slippers with a Cuff – FREE Printable Pattern!

Chevron Moccasin Slippers for adults - Free knitting pattern

This is another version of my very popular Adult Moccasin Slippers. I thought I’d jazz these slippers up a bit by adding some details to the top of the toe with a striped eyelet/chevron combo. I also made the cuff a little longer to fit even more like a bootie. I like how the final product turned out and is very gender neutral.

Because of the request by many saying that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for FREE! Because I’m getting more people making donations through Buy Me a Coffee and having more Website Members and patrons on Patreon, I can bear the cost of offering a few free downloads on the site now. If the support continues, I’d like to make this the standard for all my patterns.

In addition to the printable patterns you can get when you support my work, I’m also adding shoutouts to all who contribute. I’ll show your name in my longer videos to thank you. If you’d like to see what I mean, I do it at the end of the video above.

So thank you to all for all your support! I really do appreciate it 😊 And here is the free download that anyone can get.

Chevron Moccasin Slippers for adults - Free knitting pattern


Click here to read online

Click here to Download

If you like the way this pattern downloads, this is exactly how it works when you become a Website Member. It’s another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Become a Member

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons ?? to do so easily.

This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches, knit two stitches together, yarn over and pass a slipped stitch over, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

There is a lot of breaking and reconnecting the yarn to create the different portions of the slipper: the cuff, toe, sides and sole. I’ve created a very succinct picture tutorial showing how to work in the ends as you go so there are fewer to sew in at the end. If you do it right, you’ll only have one, and that’s the length you leave at the end to sew up the heel seam. Here’s the link to see how – Working in the Ends While Knitting. This also a handy skill to have when knitting just about anything, tbh. 

Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support my pattern writing (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I tried using some for one of the test knits for this slipper. It didn’t work. The holes and the angled striping virtually disappeared among the splotches. Also, I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend. Besides, it’s also hard to match the striping up and you waste a lot of yarn.

So here is the stuff you need…

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Use this product to make knitted slippers less slippery.



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)

To Begin – Cuff

Cast on 35 (37, 39, 41, 43)

Knit across for 9 (9, 9, 11, 11) rows. 

Next Row: With the WRONG side facing, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), P13, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).

? Next Row: K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), K1 Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass this stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle, as if to knit, taking care not to twist. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).

Next Row: K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), P13, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).?

Repeat from ? to ? 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more. You’ll have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) holes of the pattern made.

Break yarn when completed last row.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn. 

? The following stitch combination is worked over the next 15 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the eyelet and chevron stripe motif). K2 (Yes, 2) Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass the stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K1 Leave the remaining 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked. You will have a line of garter (knit) stitches running along side the chevron stripes.

Next Row: K1 P13 K1. ?

The repeating rows are worked back and forth on the 15 stitch toe flap stitches only!

Repeat from ? to ? for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more times for a total of 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) repeats. You’ll have 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) holes of the pattern made when counted from the beginning.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 15 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 15 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on  ONE needle. There are (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle).

With another needle, knit the 15 stitches of the toe flap. (15 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 10 (11,12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle)

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

How to knit slippers
I used a double pointed needle to work my 15 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 15 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) rows

There are 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

How to knit slippers
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 14 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and pick up the first cast off stitch by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

How to knit slippers
This photo is taken from the right side.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).

Knitting Pattern - Owl Slippers
Left edge

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).

Right edge

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Starting the sole. Right side.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
More of My Stuff on Etsy

Making the Heel

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you if the photos aren’t enough.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (15 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across.

Owl Slippers knitting pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making the adult size of this slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers ☺)

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (You’ll have 13 stitches the first time you do this.)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K3tog K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: K3tog.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily. I’ve had a number of positive reviews on Etsy from my well-slippered customers.

Hints and Tips

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. There’s a pictorial on my website that shows you how. Here’s the link – Working in the Ends While Knitting.

Abbreviations

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over

YO – yarn over

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].


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Knitted Cozy Cuff Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

knitted cozy cuff slippers - free knitting Pattern


I have a number of slippers that I’ve designed over the years and this basic design is one of my all time favourites. I’ve done a number of different styles including my Granny Slippers and Adult Bootie Slipeprs that are made the exact same way, but look slightly different because of the ribbing. 

This pattern is a great place to start if you are ok with your basic knitting stitches, but want to try something new. If you’ve been toying with the idea of trying to knitting in the round, this is a great place to start. If you would like to learn with this pattern, I’ve embedded how-to videos into the pattern that demonstrate how easy it actually is. If you are a seasoned knitter, then these slippers will be super quick for you to make as there is nothing complicated about them.

If you would like to purchase a copy of this pattern that you can download and print, I have a number of options for you. You can buy the pattern on this website – Knitted Cozy Cuff Slippers– with How-to VIDEOS, Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica, Google Books and Amazon. Amazon has the book in both paperback and Kindle formats.

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If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there 👆🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.

If you like my patterns and want to print more, you can download this pattern and more when you become a Website Member works. Becoming a member is like being a patron of the arts. By supporting me for a small fee every month, you help support me to create more patterns for you to use. You also get access to the patterns in the members area. You can see how many pattern there are currently available in my Current List of Member Patterns. For more information on how you can support me and become a member, click the button below.

Become a Member

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you need help with any of the basic stitches used to make these slippers, there is a playlist on YouTube that will show you how. You can also use this link – Knitting for Beginners – Easy Knitting Videos to Learn Basic Knitting Stitches. It will take you to another page on this website where you can watch them all. A new page will open so you won’t lose this one 😊

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn — (215 yards/197 m). 

Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).

Set of 4 double point needles (DPN’s) – Size 5 mm (size 8 US)

Row markers (optional. Pieces of left over yarn will also work).

Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends .

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

9 sts – 5 cm (2″) 

13 rows – 5 cm (2”) 

Sizes are written as such:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)

The Pattern

Cast on 38 (40, 42, 46, 48) sts

☺ Row 1: K across

Row2: P14 (14, 14, 17, 17) K10 (12, 14, 12, 14) P14 (14, 14, 17, 17)☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 

13 (14,16, 17, 18) times more for a total of 28 (30, 34, 36, 38) rows.

Add row markers on both sides of the slipper. This makes it easier when picking up stitches to make the cuff.

Start Toe

♥ Next Row: (K2 P1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. K14 (16, 18, 16, 18) (P1 K2) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more.

Next Row: (P2 K1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. P2 K10 (12, 14, 12, 14) (P2 K1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. P2♥

Repeat from ♥ to ♥ for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more times for a total of 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) rows for this section. You have a total of 48 (52, 58, 62, 66) rows from the cast on edge.

End Toe

Next Row: (K2tog P1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. K2tog 7 (8, 9, 8, 9) times (P1 K2tog) 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more.

Next Row: (P1 K1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. P1 K5 (6, 7, 6, 7) (P1 K1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. P1.

Next Row: K1 K2tog 5 times. K0 (1, 0, 1, 0) K2tog to the end of the row.

Next Row: P5 (5, 5, 6, 6) K2 (3, 3, 3, 3) P to the end of the row.

Draw through to pull the stitches together.

Make the Heel

If you need a little extra help with this part, the video will show you how to do it. You can either click this link – How to Make the Heel or you can watch the video below.

With the RIGHT side facing, pick up 12 (14, 16, 14, 16) stitches along the cast on edge 

♦ Next 2 Rows: K across.

Next Row: K2tog. K to last 2 sts. K2tog. ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 4 sts on your needle.

Next Row: K2tog twice.

End with the yarn on the left side of the row when the right side of the slipper is facing you. You may need to knit one more row.

Make the Cuff

If you want to make the cuff a different colour from the foot portion of the slippers, break your yarn and start with the new colour now.

There is also a video showing how to pick up the stitches to make the cuff if you are unfamiliar with knitting in the round. You can use this link – How to Make the Cuff or watch the video below.

With the RIGHT side facing and using your DPN’s, pick up 34 (37, 40, 43, 46) sts evenly around the edge of the slipper. You will now have 36 (39, 42, 45, 48) sts total. (As long as the final number of sts picked up is divisible by 3 your cuff will work. Pick up the same number of sts on both feet of course!)

Round 1-6: K2 P1 around 

Round 7-10: K around.

Hints and Tips

Be sure to cast your stitches off loosely when making the cuff. It needs to be able to stretch when going over the top of the foot and the heel. It’s the widest part the slipper has to pass over. The ribbing will snap it back to tighten up on its own.

Make the cuff as long as you like with the K2 P1 ribbing. I made it 6 rows but you may want it longer, especially for the larger sizes.

When casting off for the heel, if you need an extra row to end it so the yarn ending on the left with the right side facing (if right you are handed), that’s ok. When knitting this part, I often lose track of how many rows I’ve knitted between the row with the decreases. I’ve never had a complaint yet.

Don’t feel that the cuff needs to be the same colour as the slipper itself. A nice change is to make the cuff in a complimentary colour, especially if you have used variegated yarn. You can also use this pattern to use up some of your left over wool by making the toe (ribbed section) a different colour also.

This is also a great pattern to use if you have a variegated or any other colour changing yarn. Because there isn’t any specific stitch pattern other than some ribbing, it allows to show off the colours really well.

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Seven Slipper Styles for Comfy Feet – A Knitting Pattern Collection

Seven Slipper Styles for Cozy Feet - Knitting Patterns

As the title suggests, this is my latest knitting pattern compilation. This is the 3rd one I’ve done! I sometimes can’t believe how many slipper patterns I’ve written. It’s a bit crazy. If you’re interested you can see both my Seven Slipper Patterns and Eight Slipper Patterns. Click either of those links if you would like to read more. Keep scrolling for where to get this knitting collection including AMAZON!

This collection is nearly all of my latest slipper patterns. I am always designing, so depending on when you read this there may be many more. In short, the following patterns are included here:

  1. Snug Slip-On Slippers
  2. Nearly Seamless Cuffed Booties – Extra Thick!
  3. Bulky Yarn Slippers – Extra Thick!
  4. Minimalist Round Toe Slippers
  5. Chevron Striped Moccasin Slippers
  6. Rolled Cuff Slippers
  7. Long Cuffed Slippers
Snug Slip-on Knit Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Adult Cuffed Bootie - Knit on Straight Needles with thick yarn
Flat knit slippers on straight needles with bulky yarn
Chevron Stripe Knitted Slipper Pattern - Moccasin Style
Easy to Knit One Piece Rolled Cuff Slippers - free knitting pattern
FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - Green
Free Knitting Pattern - Round Toe Slippers

All of the pattern listed above are free to read on my website. You can click any title and it will take you directly to the pattern.

And now for why I really made this post. You can now purchase this knitting compilation from a variety of sources! Of course you can always get the printable PDF version from the ever trusted Etsy – Seven Slipper Styles for Cozy Feet – Knitting Patterns Please be warned that when you print it yourself it’s 74 pages long. Not my longest but it is a bit.

You can also buy the pattern here from my website. It’s the same PDF as the one on Etsy but I understand that some people feel sketched out buying from websites. Anywho, you can find that here – Seven Slipper Styles for Comfy Feet – Knitting Patterns

If you would like to have the paperback version sent to you, I have it available to my readers on Amazon! If you have Amazon Prime your shipping is FREE as long as you make sure you order it from your correct country. Be sure that you click on the country closest to you from the list below:

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Unfortunately, this isn’t available in Australia yet. It’s a new listing and sometimes it take a while for me to be able to sell my paperbacks there. I don’t get it either but it’s what I have to work with.

I do sell through another paperback distributor that helps to get my work onto other websites like Walmart and Target and into libraries and such. Once I have those links, I’ll post them here.

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FREE Knitting Graph Paper – Knitting Colorwork Paper – Printable PDF

Free colorwork knitting paper for intarsia knitting design

Get your free knitting colorwork paper here! Perfect for all your intarsia motif design needs.

No need to sign in, sign up or give away any personal information. Simply use the download button to download and print as many copies of the knitting graph paper as you like.

It’s a PDF file meaning that you can easily open it on any device be it your computer, phone or tablet.


View the paper online

Download

If you think someone else could use this free knitting color work paper, please let them know and share it on social media.

The knitting graph paper is to create patterns in the stockinette stitch. You can use it to either make stitch patterns, or use colours to create more intricate designs known as intarsia knitting. It’s fairly large so it will meet most of the requirements for your pattern. You can always tape sheets together if you need something larger.

I’ve also included arrows along the side to show which way you will be knitting based on the shape of the stitch. I also include a very faint pink colour so you can easily determine the number of stitches. I’ve marked them off in 5 stitch and row sections.

To help explain the process of designing your own intarsia motifs, there are photos and explanations on how to use the colorwork knitting paper included with the PDF you can download and print for free.

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Patreon Shop – KweenBee Knitting Patterns

Patreon Shop - KweenBee Knitting Patterns

I’m now selling my patterns on Patreon! So far I have listed 9 of my knitting patterns for a variety of knitted slippers and my fingerless gloves. More are coming soon. If there is anything you’d like to see now, let me know in the comments below.

Click the button below to view my shop now!

Show ME!!!

But wait! There’s more…

Become a patron on Patreon to get the patterns for FREE! All of the patterns for sale in my shop become available to you to download, ad free. I currently have a list of over 28 crochet, but mostly, knitting patterns you can download with a single click. These are listed as posts on my Patreon.

Become a Patron!

If you have any questions, please let me know. You can contact me through my online form here – Contact Me.

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Knitting Calculator – Decrease Stitches Evenly Across the Row

Knitter struggling with how to decrease stitches

The term, “decrease evenly across ? number of stitches” in any pattern can be an unpleasant sight to any knitter (me included). Whereas I try to do this calculation in the patterns I write, some don’t. Regardless, the stitch calculator below will help!

Using this calculator will give you evenly spaced decreases over the length of your work. All you need to enter is the number of stitches you have on your needle and the number of stitches you need to decrease. Everything is calculated for you.








Click here if you need to calculate how many stitches to INCREASE across a row

Please note: If you have more or less stitches at the end of your work, go ahead and knit them. The number of decreases across the stitches is correct.

I want to be completely transparent in where this increase and decrease knitting calculators originated. I did not write the code myself. After much tweaking of this query to ChatGPT, I’ve developed a stitch calculator to determine how to decrease evenly across your work. I knew what I wanted, I just didn’t know how to write the code to make it happen. AI is useful after all!

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Knitting Calculator – How to Increase Evenly Across the Row

Knitter frustrated with how to increase stitches

It’s tough, and frustrating, to do the math to figure out how many stitches you need to knit to make your stitches even across the row. We’ve all been there and we all hate doing the math. Well, you’re in luck! I’ll do it for you ?. And if you don’t know how to M1 (make 1 or increase) scroll down the page or click this link to watch the video.

Using the calculator below will give you evenly spaced increases across the length of your work. All you need to enter is the number of stitches you have on your needle and the number of stitches you need to increase. Everything is calculated for you with a single click!









Click here if you need to calculate how many stitches to DECREASE across a row

I know that sometimes the stitches are a little off on the ends. Adjust accordingly if it bothers you. I really was focused on the making the increases centered in the work with even spacing between the stitches.

I want to be completely transparent in where this knitting calculator and the decreasing calculator originated. I did not write the code myself. After much tweaking of this query to ChatGPT, I’ve developed a stitch calculator to determine how to increase evenly across your work. I knew what I wanted, I just didn’t know how to write the code to make it happen. AI is useful after all!

My notes I entered into ChatGPT to get the code to work.
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Bulky Yarn Slippers on Straight Needles – FREE Knitting Pattern

Adult Cuffed Bootie - Knit on Straight Needles with bulky yarn

If you’ve run across any of my slipper patterns before this, one thing you’ll be very familiar with is my unreasonable dislike for sewing seams on projects. I equally dislike working in ends (go to How to Work in Ends While Knitting for more on this). I have a embarrassing amount of nearly finished projects that collect in a box with unsewn seams and dangling ends. Yes. I just admitted that to everyone. No shame in my game.

This is another attempt to make this happen. It’s quite difficult to make something seamless when the design calls for it to be knit flat on 2 needles. This automatically means there are going to be ends that need to meet at some point. The idea is to make them meet as you knit so they are permanently fixed together with no extra work.

Adult Cuffed Bootie - Knit on Straight Needles with thick yarn

Don’t forget to share this pattern with your family and friends! You can use these buttons??????

This pattern starts with the cast on stitches going around the foot (sans heel). You’ll then work your way up to the top cuff. I’ve pointed out where we’re starting in this photo. 

Cast on edge for Adult Bootie Slippers

I have a bunch of other slipper patterns you can read right here on my website. If you go to this page – FREE Slipper Patterns, you can see everything I have written to date. If you’re looking for other extra thick slippers like this, I’ve written another entitled Easy to Knit Beginner Slipper Pattern – Knit Flat with Bulky Yarn.

As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here – Bulky Yarn Slippers for Adults – Knit on Straight Needles. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts, Etsy and Ravelry. If the link isn’t working I haven’t upload the pattern to the site yet.

Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Become a Member

Now that we’re done all that, if you just need the pattern, you can click this button. Please note, if you click the button you’ll skip the other info like gauge, how much yarn, needle size, etc.

Read the Pattern

Abbreviations

st – stitch

sts – stitches

sl – slip the stitch

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over.

K – knit

P – purl 

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how. 

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how. 

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

K3tog – knit 3 stitches together

P2tog – purl 2 stitches together

P2tog TBL – purl 2 together through the back loop.

p2tog TBL - purl 2 together through back loop
p2tog TBL - purl 2 together through back loop
p2tog TBL - purl 2 together through back loop

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) standard balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.

or 

Super Bulky yarn – 2 standard balls of ONE colour with matching lot numbers (90 yards/82 m). 

One ball makes one slipper. There will be some yarn left over from each ball.

Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).

Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

8 sts – 5 cm (2″) 

7 rows – 5 cm (2”) 

Sizes are written as such:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Cast on 56 (60, 64, 68)

Knit across for 6 (6, 8, 8) rows.

Next Row: K26 (28, 30, 32) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K26 (28, 30, 32).

Next Row: P25 (27, 29, 31) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P25 (27, 29, 31).

Next Row: K24 (26, 28, 30) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K24 (26, 28, 30).

Next Row: P23 (25, 27, 29) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P23 (25, 27, 29).

Next Row: K22 (24, 26, 28) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K22 (24, 26, 28).

Next Row: P21 (23, 25, 27) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P21 (23, 25, 27).

Next Row: K20 (22, 24, 26) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K20 (22, 24, 26).

Next Row: P19 (21, 23, 25) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P19 (21, 23, 25).

Next Row: K18 (20, 22, 24) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K18 (20, 22, 24).

Next Row: P17 (19, 21, 23) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P17 (19, 21, 23).

Next Row: K16 (18, 20, 22) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K16 (18, 20, 22).

Next Row: P15 (17, 19, 21) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P15 (17, 19, 21).

Next Row: K14 (16, 18, 20) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K14 (16, 18, 20).

Next Row: P13 (15, 17, 19) P2tog TBL. P2tog. P13 (15, 17, 19). If making women’s size 6-7 or men’s size 6, go to the row marked with ☺.

*Next Row: K4 M1. K0 (10, 12, 14). K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K0 (10, 12, 14). M1 K4.

Next Row: P2 PM1. P0 (12, 14, 16). P2tog TBL. P2tog. P0 (12, 14, 16). PM1 P2.*

Repeat from * to * 0 (1, 2, 3) times more.

☺Knit across for 6 (6, 8, 8) rows.

Cast off loosely.

Making the Sole

This photo will help you in how and where to pick up the following stitches. Hold your work so it looks like this with the pointy end up. The RED arrow is for right handed knitters.

Picking up stitches for the sole

Pick up 6 sts at the toe in bottom loop of cast on stitches. (3 sts on either side of middle clearly marked with p2tog line.)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K6. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. 

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K8. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. 

Next Row: Knit across.

If you are making women’s sizes 6-9 or men’s sizes 6-8, skip to row marked with ♥

For all other sizes continue as follows:

Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K10. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. 

Next Row: Knit across.

♥ ☼ Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches.

Next Row: Knit across. ☼ 

Repeat rows marked with ☼ to ☼ down the length of the sole. You will ALWAYS have 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle.

Forming the Heel

There are two ways to do this. The easiest way is to make a small triangle.

Using the 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle.

♦ Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog.

Next Row: Knit across. ♦

Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until 5 (5, 6, 6) sts

If making women’s sizes 6-9 or men’s sizes 6-8:

Next Row: K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam. 

If making women’s sizes 10-12 or men’s sizes 9-12:

Next Row: K2tog 3 times.

Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam. 

For all sizes:

Flip up the triangle to fit into the back of the heel. Sew seams along sides of triangle and up the back of the slipper.

Or

Make the seams as you go:

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you if the photos aren’t enough.

Using the 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle,

♦ Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to last 4 sts. K2tog twice. Pick up a st along side of the slipper and work in the ends. 

Picking up stitches to make the heel
Picking up stitches to make the heel

Next Row: Knit across. ♦

Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until 6 (6, 8, 8) sts.

§ Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog across. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.

Next Row: Knit across. §

If making women’s sizes 10-12 or men’s sizes 9-12, repeat from § to § once.

Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog.

Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam. Sew the seam up the back of the slipper and work in the ends.

Hints and Tips

You can make the slippers truly seamless when you are making the seamed triangle for the back of the heel. Continue picking up stitches on each side while working up the heel seam. Continue doing this using the 5 sts and repeating as follows: 

Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.

Next Row: Knit across.

I didn’t include it in the instructions because… I didn’t. It was already complicated enough for the heel.

If you are up in arms about how many ends there are to sew in, you can work the ends in while you are knitting. I have a detailed photo tutorial on my website here that you can watch – How to Work In the Ends While Knitting.

Play around with the colours you choose if you’re using worsted weight yarn. You can get some neat effects by blending a solid colour with a variegated one, or by using colours that are the same colour but a different tone. I used both of these techniques for the red booties.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or duplicate this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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Seven Crochet Jewelry Patterns

How to crochet jewelry with seven crochet patterns

It’s taken me a while to get around to adding this to my website for some reason. Not sure why that happened? Anywho, for those who enjoy crocheting something different or want quick, fast and cheap things to sell online or in craft markets, these crochet patterns are for you.

All of them are available for FREE on my website to read. They always will be. If you want or prefer to have a printed version, I have the downloadable and printable versions available through a number of retailers. You can get it from my:

Etsy shop

this website

if you would prefer a paperback version, you can order it through Amazon. Below I’ve included the countries that its available in. Be sure to pick your country, or the one closest to you so you won’t have to pay for shipping if you are an Amazon Prime member.

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

If you would prefer to read the patterns for free on my website, you can click any of the titles below and it will take you directly to the pattern. Not all of them are on here. I’m not sure why?? I plan to fix this ASAP.

Crocheted Victorian Charm Bracelet and Necklace

Quick to Make Crochet Bracelet

Crocheted Waves Bracelet

Crocheted Fans Bracelet

Crochet Flower and Friendship Bracelets

Beads and Ladders Crochet Bracelet

Crochet a Necklace: Mandala & Flower

I’ve made a note to myself about the last two patterns not being on my website for free. I’m very sorry about that. Trust me, it’s in the pile of things to do.

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How to Crochet Leaves – FREE Crochet Pattern to Make a Leaf for Sun Hat

FREE Crochet Leaf Pattern

This crocheted leaf pattern was designed to go along with a flower made for my sun hat (Crochet sun hat pattern coming soon!). As I was getting the photos ready, I was thinking how these could also be used to highlight many things, especially a crocheted wreath for autumn. I like how the leaves look in the variety of fall colours.

The leaves by themselves aren’t really much to look at. I didn’t want them to be. I want them to be fill behind the flowers highlighting the flowers themselves.

I’m going to add buttons so you can easily go to the pages with the flower pattern and the hat (when it’s done).

Crochet Flower Pattern
Crochet Sun Hat Pattern
Crochet flower sun hat

This pattern isn’t available alone as a downloadable and printable PDF. It will be included with the sunhat/bucket hat/cowboy/cowgirl hat along with the flower. It was easier to divide the hat, flower and leaf into separate pages on the website.

If you know someone you think would like this post, by all means, share it! The more eyeballs on my work the better. If you are enjoying the free patterns, this is a great way to support my work. You can also Buy Me A Coffee or check out the other options when you check out the Help Support My Work page. If you’re looking for something new to share with your friends on your website or on social media, these links will help you do it.

The hints and tips for how to finish and press the flowers is written below the pattern. You can also ask any questions in the comments section.

Abbreviations

ch – chain 

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble crochet

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Things You Need

Worsted weigh yarn (small quantities from your stash)

3.5 mm (US E or 4) crochet hook.

Stitch marker. (A piece of yarn or bobby pin will do).

The Pattern

Please note: 

The rounds end in various places on the bottom of the leaf. Regardless, the stitch counts work. Round 4 evens out the stitches giving the leaf shape.

Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)

Round 1: 11sc in 2nd chain from hook. Do NOT join. Begin to work in the round.

Round 2: In the 1st sc from the last round, sc. 2sc in the next st. In the next st, sc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, dc. 2dc in the next 2 sts. In the next st, dc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, sc. 2sc in the next st. Sc.

Round 3: *2sc in the next st, sc* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. In the next st, sc, hdc. (Mark the hdc with a stitch marker). In the next st, hdc, dc. 2dc in the next st. In the next st, dc, trc. In the next st, trc, dc. 2dc in the next st. In the next st, dc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, sc. *Sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 2 more times.

Round 4: *2sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. (Or as many sc as you need to get to the stitch marker). Sc in the stitch marked with the marker. As you normally would, proceed as follows, hdc, 4dc. In the next st (the 1st trc from the previous round), dc, trc. Ch 2 sl st in the 2nd chain from hook. In the next st, trc, dc. As you normally would, proceed as follows, 4dc, hdc, sc. *2sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 4 more times. 2Sc. Sl st in the next st. Break yarn. Tie off.

Work in the ends and sew into place.

More of my stuff on Etsy


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Hints and Tips

Add extra embroidered details to the leaves as you see fit. Maybe some extra veining lines or stitches around the edge in a slightly darker shade? It really is up to you.

As much as I wanted to avoid pressing anything, the leaves also need to be pressed to have them lie flat. Be sure to do a test swatch BEFORE you press anything. Acrylic is notorious for melting and losing all constructive properties when pressed. It melts to give a flat, melted look. Press with your iron at the lowest setting possible. Press with a damp cloth between the iron and the leaf. Iron the leaves from the BACK only! 

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Super Simple Easy to Knit Slippers – Free Knitting Pattern – Now with a Complete How-to Video!

easy to knit slipper pattern

These slippers are perfect for a beginner! If you know how to cast on, knit, purl, K2tog, M1, and draw through (or gather) stitches you will be able to make these slippers. Don’t know how? I have a full online video tutorial to show you how to do it!.

If you’re looking for the pattern, keep scrolling down the page. It’s written out in full below.

Happy days! Because I was asked by a number of people to make a printable version this pattern, I made up the PDF! You can get it in all my usual places. The first is right from this site. Click this link to download and print this pattern – Super Simple Easy to Knit Slippers – Great Knitting Pattern for Beginners. You can also find it in my Etsy shop, Love Crafts and on Ravelry. If you like Amazon, you can also get the Kindle version there.

Loving the free patterns on this site? You can always help me out by sharing this with people you think may like it. A share on social media is always appreciated. You can use the links below??????. Financial donations are always welcome, too! I recently started a profile on Buy Me a Coffee. It’s a one time donation that is a simple thanks for all the hard work I put into my patterns and this website.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Become a Member
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern
easy to knit slipper pattern
easy to knit slipper pattern
easy to knit slipper pattern
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern
Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern

Things You Will Need:

Worsted weight yarn (aka 4 or Aran weight or 10 ply) I like acrylic. It washes and wears well. It’s also easy to find and rather inexpensive.

Size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

Tapestry needle (to sew seams and work in the ends)

Knitted socks can be slippery on wood floors but I find that this can help:

Abbreviations

If you’re unsure how to do any of the following, click the link to watch the video demo.

Cast on – cast on

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

M1 – Make one (Makes one stitch increase)

draw through (or gather) stitches

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size needles you need to create the number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge or the sizing could be off. But even in saying that, this is a very forgiving pattern. If you’re off a bit, it’ll be okay.

4″ = 16 stitches

4″ = 40 rows

Sizes are written as follows:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11,12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

It’s only the numbers of rows that are going to change with the sizing.

To Begin – Making the Heel Flap

Cast on 3 stitches

(I’m counting this as row 1 only because I mis-numbered the rows when I originally posted this knitting pattern. It was easier to change it at the beginning than renumbering the entire pattern.)

Rows 2 – 3: Knit across

Row 4: K1 M1 K2. (4 sts)

Rows 5 – 6: Knit across

Row 7: K1 M1 K2 M1 K1 (6 sts)

Rows 8 – 9: Knit across

Row 10: K1 M1 K4 M1 K1 (8 sts)

Rows 11 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K1 M1 K6 M1 K1 (10 sts)

Rows 14 – 15: Knit across

Row 16: K1 M1 K8 M1 K1 (12 sts)

Rows 17 – 18: Knit across

Row 19: K1 M1 K10 M1 K1 (14 sts)

Rows 20 – 21: Knit across

Row 22: K1 M1 K12 M1 K1 (16 sts)

Row 23 – 24: Knit across

If you are having difficulties with casting on the stitches, the video above ???? starts exactly at that spot. If you know how to do that, keep on going with the pattern.

Row 25: Cast on 14 sts. (Yes, you already have 16 stitches on your needle. Don’t break your yarn. Simply cast on. The next stitches are knit into the stitches you cast on and the original 16 that were there). * P1 K1 * Repeat from * to * 6 more times. P1 K14 P1. (30 sts)

Row 26: Cast on 14 sts. (Yes again.) ⟡ K1 P1 ⟡ Repeat from ⟡ to ⟡ 6 more times. K16 ⦷ P1 K1 ⦷ Repeat for ⦷ to ⦷ 6 more times. (44 sts)

⧭Row 27: ⧱ P1 K1 ⧱ Repeat from ⧱ to ⧱ 6 more times. P1 K14 P1. ⨳ K1 P1 ⨳ Repeat from ⨳ to ⨳ 6 more times (44 sts)

Row 28: ⋚ K1 P1 ⋚ Repeat from ⋚ to ⋚ 6 more times. K16 ⨈ P1 K1 ⨈ Repeat from ⨈ to ⨈ 6 more times.⧭

Repeat ⧭ to ⧭ 28 (31, 34, 37) times.

Another way to think of it, you will have knit 56 (62, 68, 74) rows TOTAL.

***END WITH ROW 27***. This maintains the pattern.

More of my stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Ending the Toe

Like with the casting on, some people have difficulties with forming the toe. The video below starts exactly at that point.

Next row: K1 K2tog 12 times. K1 K2tog to the end of the row.

Next row: P8 K7 P8

Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch.

Next row: P5 K3 P4.

Pull the yarn through or draw stitches together. Cut the yarn leaving 12″ or so.

Finishing

Sew up the seam from where you gathered the toe stitches to roughly 2/3 up the foot.

Flip up the heel flap and sew up the seams on the back of the heel.

Work in your ends.

Hints and Tips

It’s important to sew the toe seam close to 2/3 of the way from the toe to the ankle. Any less and it will feel a bit sloppy on the wearer’s foot. Any further and it will be too tight for the wearer to get over their heel. You can lay it out and measure it or simply eyeball it. It’s not rocket science.

If you want to pick up stitches to add the heel flap after instead of how I did it in one piece, cast on 44 sts to start and then start at row 27.

This is a good pattern to use variegated yarn. The pattern is very simple so the yarn texture and print can really show off. You can use the self striping yarn, but getting the stripes to match will be difficult.

Like all my patterns, you can sell whatever slippers you make with this pattern. You are NOT permitted to print or copy this pattern in any way. You are not permitted to copy or redistribute this pattern in any form including, but not limited to, any physical or digital versions. To do so will violated copyright law. And give you bad karma.

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Easy to Knit Long Cuffed Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - Green

This easy to knit slipper pattern is a variation of my Rolled Cuff Slipper pattern. This pattern has the same foot design, but I know that some people prefer a longer cuff to help keep their ankles warm.

Like my previous slipper pattern, this was written to avoid any difficult techniques, specifically, picking up stitches. That is why this pattern is done in one piece; starting at the heel flap and working towards the toe. 

Also, the extended cuff is worked in one piece as you knit the slipper. I’ve given instructions and included photos to show how you’ll need to flip the slipper so the seam for the folded down section is on the right side. When folded, the seam disappears. You can read more about that when you go to the Hints and Tips section at the end of this post.

FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - purple
FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - Green
FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - purple
FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - Green
FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - Green
FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - Green
FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - purple
FREE Knitting Pattern -Long Cuffed slippers - purple

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

If you would like to avoid the ads on this page or would like to print the pattern, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee from this website at Easy to Knit Long Cuffed Slippers , through my Etsy shop or on Ravelry.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Become a Member

Things You Need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn such as this will be more than enough)

Size 5 mm (US 8 ) single pointed needles

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

Gauge

18 stitches = 4 inches 

24 rows = 4 inches 

in stockinette

Sizes are written as such:

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men’s 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13)

Heel Flap

Cast on 2

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Increase in each stitch. (4 sts)

Row 3 – 4 : Knit across.

Row 5: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (6 sts)

Row 6 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (8 sts)

Row 9 – 10: Knit across.

Row 11: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (10 sts)

Row 12 – 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (12 sts)

Row 15 – 16: Knit across.

PLEASE NOTE:

The following rows are for sizes Women’s size 12 and Men’s sizes 11, 12 and 13 ONLY:

Next row: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch (14 sts)

Next 2 rows: Knit across.

Continue the pattern for all sizes.

Next row: Cast on 29 stitches. (Yes, you already have 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) stitches on your needle. After casting on, you’ll have 41 (41, 41, 43, 43) sts on your needle). The following is worked over the stitches you just cast on and the stitches from the heel. K8 P1 Knit to the end of the row.  As you worked those stitches, your work was transferred onto the other needle. Cast on another 29 sts onto this needle. (You now have 70 (70, 70, 72, 72 sts) on your needle)

Next row: K16 P1 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K12 (K12, K12, K14, K14) *P1 K3* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K16.

♥ ☺ Next row: P9 K52 (K52, K52, K54, K54) P9

Next row: K16 P1 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K12 (K12, K12, K14, K14) *P1 K3* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K16.

Next row: K8 P1 K52 (K52, K52, K54, K54) P1 K8.

Next row: K16 P1 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K12 (K12, K12, K14, K14) *P1 K3* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K16. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) times more for 30, (30, 34, 34, 38) rows total.

Please note – Repeat the row marked with ☺ once to maintain the pattern.

Shaping Toe

Next row: Cast off 15 sts. P1 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K12 (K12, K12, K14, K14) *P1 K3* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K16.

Next row: Cast of 15 sts. Knit across.

◊ ♫ Next row: P2 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 12, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 times more. P2.

Next row: Knit across. ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 9 (10, 10, 11, 11) times more for 22 (24, 24, 26, 26) rows total.

Please note – Repeat the row marked with ♫ once to maintain the pattern.

End Toe

Next row: K2tog 10 (10, 10, 11, 11) times. K1 K2tog to last 3 sts. K1 K2tog. 

Next row: P1 K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * once P1 K6 (6, 6, 7, 7) *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 time more. P1.

Next row: K1 K2tog 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) times. K1 (1, 1, 0, 0). K2tog until last st. K1

Next row: P1 K1 P3 K3 P4.

Break yarn and pull through. Pull tight to draw loops together.

Hints and Tips

Leave a longer length of yarn when you first start the slipper. You can use this piece to sew one of the seams along the heel flap. When you end the slipper, leave that yarn length longer too. You can use the length to sew the toe seam.

When sewing the seams to form the cuff, when you get to the part that folds over, be sure to turn the slipper inside out so the seam is on the RIGHT side.

Learn how to knit slippers with a longer cuff with this free knitting pattern
How to sew the seam for the cuff

The sizing of these slippers is very forgiving. The garter stitch used throughout helps the slipper to stretch both width and length wise. If your gauge is off by a row or a stitch, you should be able to get the size of slipper you want.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

The use of this pattern allows you to make and sell the slippers you make, but you may not redistribute or resell this pattern.

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Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit

Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit cover art

I’ve been busy as of late! I’ve updated photos and rewritten a few of my fingerless glove and mitt patterns over the last few weeks to bring you yet another compilation of all my mitt and glove patterns! To date, there are a total of 9 patterns all together. All the favourites, and a couple that were so old you may not have even known they existed. For some reason, people don’t seem to like to do searches of this site or follow links. It’s weird TBH.

Currently, it is only available through retailers online. You can order a physical copy through Amazon with free shipping if you are an Amazon Prime member. As I write this I am making a selection of my publications to physical book stores. It’s a bit of a process to make this happen but hopefully ?? I’ll get the formatting down and accepted. Marketing is pricey so I need to be selective on how I’m going to approach this. Wish me luck!

Patterns to make all of the mitts and gloves in the photos below are included with this pattern collection.

Free knitting pattern - flip mitts
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Free knitting pattern - flip mitts
Flip mitts – fingers exposed
Free knitting pattern - flip mitts
Flip mitts with no flap attached
How to Knit Texting Mitts - Knitting Pattern
FREE Knitting Pattern – Texting Mitts
How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves - FREE Knitting Pattern
How to Knit Long Fingerless Gloves - FREE Knitting Pattern
2 needle owl gloves
2 needle owl gloves
Simple Knit Fingerless Gloves
Simple to Knit Fingerless Gloves
Cable Fingerless Gloves
Grey Cable Fingerless Gloves
Cable Fingerless Gloves
Taupe Fingerless Gloves
how to knit fingerless mitts
how to knit fingerless mitts
red owl knitted fingerless gloves
grey owl knitted fingerless gloves

But on to my latest publication. This collection contains patterns for fingerless gloves knit flat on 2 needles and seamless gloves and mittens knit in the round on double pointed needles (DPN). This compilation also includes mitts that are specifically designed for texting. And lastly, another design to free your fingers when you need them but cover your fingers when required. In short, this collection meets all your fashion and functionality requirements.

You can purchase and print the PDF yourself if you like. It is cheaper that way, of course. You can purchase it from my website here – Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit or from my Etsy shop here – Nine Knitting Patterns! – Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Collection. Either way I would like you to know it’s 106 pages. It’s a lot to print, but if you are comfortable reading PDF’s on your table or phone, this a very economical option. You can also just print the pattern you want by selecting the pages and printing on two sides of the page, but you’ll have to know how to do this. I can’t help you because every printer has a different way of doing it.

If you want to purchase the printed book, delivered to your door for free if you’re an Amazon Prime member, please click the country you are in:

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

This publication is available in English only.

Like always, all of the patterns are free to read on this website. They are ad supported and unprintable. Sorry, but too many people were just printing the pages leaving me with nothing but a bill for web hosting costs. You may not realize this, but with each illegal print, you cost me advertising revenue. I am writing patterns to help support me and my family, not charity. I can only give so much folks!

Another option to purchase the paperback if you are in the United States is through Walmart. I can’t find it on Target, but hopefully it will be there soon. Click the button below:

Walmart

The list of the patterns in this collection include the following (all titles are clickable links to the pattern btw):

Super Simple Fingerless Gloves
Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!
Basic Long Fingerless Gloves
Cable Fingerless Gloves or Mitts
Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves
Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts
Arm Warmers or Gloves – with BOWS!

I’ve also organized it so there is a specific page with all of the glove and mitten patterns in one place. You can see that here: Fingerless Gloves and Flip Mitts – FREE Knitting Patterns

I hope to keep you all informed of my progress with getting my patterns in real stores. The potential is there and I’m really excited where this next stage of my pattern writing journey takes me.

Happy knitting everyone!!!

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Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.

This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern
Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

Like always, you can find the ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF version of this pattern through all my regular online purveyors of creation such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts and of course this website at Adult Moccasin Bootie Slippers – Classic Ugg Style – Knitting Pattern.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these share links below ?????? and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too.

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)

?  Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.

Row 3 – 4: K across. ?

Repeat from ? to ? 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)

Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.

Break yarn when completed row 2.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

? Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. ?

Repeat from ? to ? 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap. 

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.

With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. 

With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Needle arrangement for textured bootie slippers
How the needle arrangement should look.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif. 
I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern.
The horizontal ridges look the same for you.

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

? Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across ?

Repeat from ? to ? down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same 
for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continue to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.

♥︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)

Ridges on the side of adult bootie slipper
The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges 
when making the larger sizes.
The above photo shows 9 rows of ridges.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches). 

Picking up the stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across ♥︎

Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.

Making the Heel

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.

♦︎ Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♦︎

Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!! 

Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side. 

Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

More of my stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.

If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.

sewing the seam to make a cuff

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Help Support My Work!

Follow me on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, Pinterest and YouTube. Every follow, subscribe, thumbs up, like, heart and share help increase my popularity on the web and get more viewers to my work. It costs you nothing but helps me sooooo much! 

For more printable patterns like this one, support me on Patreon! I’m adding new patterns regularly. As of this printing there are 8 additonal patterns to download for only $4 per month. You can read more about that at www.Patreon.com/JanisFrank

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FREE Knitting Pattern – Cable Fingerless Gloves

Cable Fingerless Gloves

The season is getting colder again, the few apples on my trees are turning red and my mind turns back towards knitting. And oh boy, am I coming up with a bunch of knitting designs! Now here’s to finding the time to publish them all. Work is also back to full-time so that’s great news ?

A couple of things about this knitting pattern before we grab our favourite worsted weight yarn, double pointed and cable needles and get to work. Like my Owl Fingerless Gloves pattern, I am keeping the stitch count the same and only changing the needles size to change the size of the glove. The pattern on the back of the hand stays proportional in size and placement on the glove remains the same for a better overall look.

I made a number of different lengths of the glove too, for demonstrative purposes. The taupe with flecks (apparently it’s also known as tweed, who knew) is the pattern exactly as written. I repeated the cable pattern once for the grey pair and 4 times for the purple tweed/flecked. There’s a note in the pattern what rows make up the 5 plait cable pattern. Why do 3 cables when you can do 5? I’ve always been a bit of an overachiever ?

The downloadable PDF version is completed and uploaded it to all my distributors. You can find it on the following fine and upstanding websites – Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and this website.

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Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I also have – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It is very plain Jane and it’s the yarn that makes this one pop.

Ok. Enough of that. Let’s get knitting!!!

Things you will need:

worsted weight yarn – I used Red Heart worsted weight (AKA size 4 or 8 ply) yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

Cable needle

A Note on Sizing:

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Left Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1-8: K1 P1 around

Row 9: K4 P1 K15 P1 K15

Row 10: K4 P1 C6F twice. K3 P1 K15 (you can click the blue link for a description of how to do a C6F or scroll to the abbreviations section)

Row 11 – 12: as row 9

Row 13: K4 P1 K3 C6B twice. P1 K15 (you can click the blue link for a description of how to do a C6B or scroll to the abbreviations section)

Row 14 – 15: as row 9

Rows 10 to 15 make the cable pattern. Repeat these rows to make the gloves longer as described earlier.

Next Row: K1 M1 K1 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (38 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K6 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K3 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (40 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K8 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K5 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (42 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K10 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K7 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (44 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K12 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K9 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (46 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K14 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K11 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (48 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K16 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (35 sts)

Next Row: K3 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog

Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

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Right Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1-8: K1 P1 around

Row 9: K18 P1 K15 P1 K1

Row 10: K18 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1

Row 11 – 12: as row 9

Row 13: K18 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1

Row 14 – 15: as row 9

Rows 10 to 15 make the cable pattern. Repeat these rows to make the gloves longer as described earlier.

Next Row: K1 M1 K1 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (38 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K20 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K3 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (40 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K22 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K5 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (42 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K24 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K7 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (44 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K26 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K9 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (46 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K28 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K11 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (48 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K30 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (35 sts)

Next Row: K17 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog

Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Hints and Tips

If you have too many stitches double check to make sure you haven’t picked up a stitch between the needles. If you don’t have enough stitches, did you drop one when you were making the cable? Yes, I do make typos sometimes but I double check and recheck before I publish these patterns and it is more likely you’ve made a slight error while knitting. I’ve given stitch counts at the end of every row to help you along. Please let me know if I legitly did make a mistake. But with saying that, it isn’t always my fault. Some of you get kinda nasty about this and you really need to stop. Here’s the email so you can complain to my manager if that last bit offended you – [email protected]. FYI Karens – I am the manager and that email address doesn’t work.

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the cable motif with one needle having 15 stitches. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the cable.

If you like your ribbing to be a little more snug, you can use a smaller size needles to knit this portion. Stepping it down a half size; small – 3.5 mm, medium – 4.5 mm and large 5.5 mm should work. You may want to go smaller. I don’t do this because I always forget to switch back.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section if it works. It’s been acting up since I switched hosting plans. Sorry.

Abbreviations:

C6F – Cable 6 forward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. 

C6B – Cable 6 backward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. 

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

P2tog – Purl 2 together

Well, that wraps up this knitting pattern. I hope you liked it, have a lot of fun with it, and maybe even make a bit of money from what you make. Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any gloves/mitts that you make from this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reproduce or republish this pattern in any form. Whether it be illegal screen shots of this page, a copy you print from this webpage, or multiple copies of the ONE pattern you paid for and subsequently give to your friends. Yes. All of those behaviours violate copyright laws. And every time you do that, it makes one less pair of eyeballs on my work that takes away from any ad revenue or other profits I may make from my hard efforts in designing and writing these patterns. I don’t work for free. I’m sure you don’t either.