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Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit

Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit cover art

I’ve been busy as of late! I’ve updated photos and rewritten a few of my fingerless glove and mitt patterns over the last few weeks to bring you yet another compilation of all my mitt and glove patterns! To date, there are a total of 9 patterns all together. All the favourites, and a couple that were so old you may not have even known they existed. For some reason, people don’t seem to like to do searches of this site or follow links. It’s weird TBH.

Currently, it is only available through retailers online. You can order a physical copy through Amazon with free shipping if you are an Amazon Prime member. As I write this I am making a selection of my publications to physical book stores. It’s a bit of a process to make this happen but hopefully 🤞🏼 I’ll get the formatting down and accepted. Marketing is pricey so I need to be selective on how I’m going to approach this. Wish me luck!

Patterns to make all of the mitts and gloves in the photos below are included with this pattern collection.

But on to my latest publication. This collection contains patterns for fingerless gloves knit flat on 2 needles and seamless gloves and mittens knit in the round on double pointed needles (DPN). This compilation also includes mitts that are specifically designed for texting. And lastly, another design to free your fingers when you need them but cover your fingers when required. In short, this collection meets all your fashion and functionality requirements.

You can purchase and print the PDF yourself if you like. It is cheaper that way, of course. You can purchase it from my website here – Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit or from my Etsy shop here – Nine Knitting Patterns! – Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Collection. Either way I would like you to know it’s 106 pages. It’s a lot to print, but if you are comfortable reading PDF’s on your table or phone, this a very economical option. You can also just print the pattern you want by selecting the pages and printing on two sides of the page, but you’ll have to know how to do this. I can’t help you because every printer has a different way of doing it.

If you want to purchase the printed book, delivered to your door for free if you’re an Amazon Prime member, please click the country you are in:

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

This publication is available in English only.

Like always, all of the patterns are free to read on this website. They are ad supported and unprintable. Sorry, but too many people were just printing the pages leaving me with nothing but a bill for web hosting costs. You may not realize this, but with each illegal print, you cost me advertising revenue. I am writing patterns to help support me and my family, not charity. I can only give so much folks!

The list of the patterns in this collection include the following (all titles are clickable links to the pattern btw):

Super Simple Fingerless Gloves
Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!
Basic Long Fingerless Gloves
Cable Fingerless Gloves or Mitts
Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves
Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts
Arm Warmers or Gloves – with BOWS!

I’ve also organized it so there is a specific page with all of the glove and mitten patterns in one place. You can see that here: Fingerless Gloves and Flip Mitts – FREE Knitting Patterns

I hope to keep you all informed of my progress with getting my patterns in real stores. The potential is there and I’m really excited where this next stage of my pattern writing journey takes me.

Happy knitting everyone!!!

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Super Simple Easy to Knit Slippers – Free Knitting Pattern

Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern

These slippers are perfect for a beginner! If you know how to cast on, knit, purl, K2tog, M1, and draw through (or gather) stitches you will be able to make these slippers. Don’t know how? I have videos. They’re REALLY old but they show you what to do. Here’s the playlist to get you started:

And just to let you know, if you’re looking for a how-to for a specific stitch, if you click the 3 bars with the arrow in the upper right hand corner of the video below, the complete video tutorial list pops up.

Happy days! Because I was asked by a number of people to make a printable version this pattern, I made up the PDF! You can get it in all my usual places. The first is right from this site. Click this link to download and print this pattern – Super Simple Easy to Knit Slippers – Great Knitting Pattern for Beginners. You can also find it in my Etsy shop and on Ravelry.

Loving the free patterns on this site? You can always help me out by sharing this with people you think may like it. A share on social media is always appreciated. You can use the links below👇🏽👇🏽👇🏽. Financial donations are always welcome, too! I recently started a profile on Buy Me a Coffee. It’s a one time donation that is a simple thanks for all the hard work I put into my patterns and this website.


If you are looking to print this pattern and others, You can help support me on Patreon. I have a number of printable patterns available to download when you support me at $4 USD and month. You can access the patterns as long as you remain a supporter and download them as many times as you like. As of the writing of this post, there are 16 knitting patterns on there; it’s a heck of a good deal. And as a plus, I post every new pattern I write on Patreon to download. Patreon also sends all my supporters an email with each new post. This means you’ll never miss a new pattern.

Sound good? Awesome! Click this link to get started…


Things You Will Need:

Worsted weight yarn (aka 4 or Aran weight or 10 ply) I like acrylic. It washes and wears well. It’s also easy to find and rather inexpensive.

Size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

Tapestry needle (to sew seams and work in the ends)

Knitted socks can be slippery on wood floors but I find that this can help:

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Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size needles you need to create the number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge or the sizing could be off. But even in saying that, this is a very forgiving pattern. If you’re off a bit, it’ll be okay.

4″ = 16 stitches

4″ = 40 rows

Sizes are written as follows:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11,12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

It’s only the numbers of rows that are going to change with the sizing.

To Begin – Making the Heel Flap

Cast on 3 stitches

(I’m counting this as row 1 only because I mis-numbered the rows when I originally posted this knitting pattern. It was easier to change it at the beginning than renumbering the entire pattern.)

Rows 2 – 3: Knit across

Row 4: K1 M1 K2. (4 sts)

Rows 5 – 6: Knit across

Row 7: K1 M1 K2 M1 K1 (6 sts)

Rows 8 – 9: Knit across

Row 10: K1 M1 K4 M1 K1 (8 sts)

Rows 11 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K1 M1 K6 M1 K1 (10 sts)

Rows 14 – 15: Knit across

Row 16: K1 M1 K8 M1 K1 (12 sts)

Rows 17 – 18: Knit across

Row 19: K1 M1 K10 M1 K1 (14 sts)

Rows 20 – 21: Knit across

Row 22: K1 M1 K12 M1 K1 (16 sts)

Row 23 – 24: Knit across

Row 25: Cast on 14 sts. (Yes, you already have 16 stitches on your needle. Don’t break your yarn. Simply cast on. The next stitches are knit into the stitches you cast on and the original 16 that were there). * P1 K1 * Repeat from * to * 6 more times. P1 K14 P1. (30 sts)

Row 26: Cast on 14 sts. (Yes again.) ⟡ K1 P1 ⟡ Repeat from ⟡ to ⟡ 6 more times. K16 ⦷ P1 K1 ⦷ Repeat for ⦷ to ⦷ 6 more times. (44 sts)

Row 27: ⧱ P1 K1 ⧱ Repeat from ⧱ to ⧱ 6 more times. P1 K14 P1. ⨳ K1 P1 ⨳ Repeat from ⨳ to ⨳ 6 more times (44 sts)

Row 28: ⋚ K1 P1 ⋚ Repeat from ⋚ to ⋚ 6 more times. K16 ⨈ P1 K1 ⨈ Repeat from ⨈ to ⨈ 6 more times.⧭

Repeat ⧭ to ⧭ 28 (31, 34, 37) times.

Another way to think of it, you will have knit 56 (62, 68, 74) rows TOTAL.

***END WITH ROW 27***. This maintains the pattern.

More of my stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Ending the Toe

Next row: K1 K2tog 12 times. K1 K2tog to the end of the row.

Next row: P8 K7 P8

Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch.

Next row: P5 K3 P4.

Pull the yarn through or draw stitches together. Cut the yarn leaving 12″ or so.

Finishing

Sew up the seam from where you gathered the toe stitches to roughly 2/3 up the foot.

Flip up the heel flap and sew up the seams on the back of the heel.

Work in your ends.

Abbreviations

If you’re unsure how to do any of the following, click the link to watch the video demo.

Cast on – cast on

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

M1 – Make one (Makes one stitch increase)

draw through (or gather) stitches

Hints and Tips

It’s important to sew the toe seam close to 2/3 of the way from the toe to the ankle. Any less and it will feel a bit sloppy on the wearer’s foot. Any further and it will be too tight for the wearer to get over their heel. You can lay it out and measure it or simply eyeball it. It’s not rocket science.

If you want to pick up stitches to add the heel flap after instead of how I did it in one piece, cast on 44 sts to start and then start at row 27.

This is a good pattern to use variegated yarn. The pattern is very simple so the yarn texture and print can really show off. You can use the self striping yarn, but getting the stripes to match will be difficult.

Like all my patterns, you can sell whatever slippers you make with this pattern. You are NOT permitted to print or copy this pattern in any way. You are not permitted to copy or redistribute this pattern in any form including, but not limited to, any physical or digital versions. To do so will violated copyright law. And give you bad karma.

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FREE Knit Slipper Pattern – Chevron Striped Moccasin Slippers

Chevron Stripe Knitted Slipper Pattern - Moccasin Style

This is another version of my very popular Adult Moccasin Slippers. I thought I’d jazz these slippers up a bit by adding some details to the top of the toe with a striped eyelet/chevron combo. I also made the cuff a little longer to fit even more like a bootie. I like how the final product turned out and is very gender neutral.

Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Adult Chevron Stripe Moccasin Slippers. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to the website yet 😉.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Support my work on patreon

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons 👇🏼 to do so easily.


This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches, knit two stitches together, yarn over and pass a slipped stitch over, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

There is a lot of breaking and reconnecting the yarn to create the different portions of the slipper: the cuff, toe, sides and sole. I’ve created a very succinct picture tutorial showing how to work in the ends as you go so there are fewer to sew in at the end. If you do it right, you’ll only have one, and that’s the length you leave at the end to sew up the heel seam. Here’s the link to see how – Working in the Ends While Knitting. This also a handy skill to have when knitting just about anything, tbh. 


Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support my pattern writing (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I tried using some for one of the test knits for this slipper. It didn’t work. The holes and the angled striping virtually disappeared among the splotches. Also, I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend. Besides, it’s also hard to match the striping up and you waste a lot of yarn.

So here is the stuff you need…

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Use this product to make knitted slippers less slippery.



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)

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To Begin – Cuff

Cast on 35 (37, 39, 41, 43)

Knit across for 9 (9, 911, 11) rows. 

Next Row: With the WRONG side facing, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), P13, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).

🌸 Next Row: K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), K1 Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass this stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle, as if to knit, taking care not to twist. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).

Next Row: K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), P13, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).🌸

Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more. You’ll have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) holes of the pattern made.

Break yarn when completed last row.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn. 

🪲 The following stitch combination is worked over the next 15 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the eyelet and chevron stripe motif). K2 (Yes, 2) Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass the stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K1 Leave the remaining 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked. You will have a line of garter (knit) stitches running along side the chevron stripes.

Next Row: K1 P13 K1. 🪲

The repeating rows are worked back and forth on the 15 stitch toe flap stitches only!

Repeat from 🪲 to 🪲 for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13more times for a total of 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) repeats. You’ll have 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) holes of the pattern made when counted from the beginning.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 15 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 15 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on  ONE needle. There are (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle).

With another needle, knit the 15 stitches of the toe flap. (15 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 10 (11,12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle)

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

How to knit slippers
I used a double pointed needle to work my 15 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 15 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) rows

There are 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

How to knit slippers
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 14 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and pick up the first cast off stitch by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

How to knit slippers
This photo is taken from the right side.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).

Knitting Pattern - Owl Slippers
Left edge

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).

Right edge

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Starting the sole. Right side.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
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Making the Heel

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (15 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across.

Owl Slippers knitting pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making the adult size of this slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers ☺)

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (You’ll have 13 stitches the first time you do this.)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K3tog K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: K3tog.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily. I’ve had a number of positive reviews on Etsy from my well-slippered customers.

Hints and Tips

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. There’s a pictorial on my website that shows you how. Here’s the link – Working in the Ends While Knitting.

Abbreviations

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over

YO – yarn over

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.


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Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.

This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.

Like always, you can find the ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF version of this pattern through all my regular online purveyors of creation such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts and of course this website at Adult Moccasin Bootie Slippers – Classic Ugg Style – Knitting Pattern.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these share links below 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too.

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)

🌺  Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.

Row 3 – 4: K across. 🌺

Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)

Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.

Break yarn when completed row 2.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 2628) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 2628) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

🍎 Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. 🍎

Repeat from 🍎 to 🍎 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap. 

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 2628) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 22 (24, 2628) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 2628) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.

With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. 

With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 2628) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Needle arrangement for textured bootie slippers
How the needle arrangement should look.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif. 
I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern.
The horizontal ridges look the same for you.

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

💋 Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across 💋

Repeat from 💋 to 💋 down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same 
for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continue to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.

Making the Heel

🍄 Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)

Ridges on the side of adult bootie slipper
The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges 
when making the larger sizes.
The above photo shows 9 rows of ridges.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches). 

Picking up the stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across 🍄

Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.

🌻 Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. 🌻

Repeat from 🌻 to 🌻 until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!! 

Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side. 

Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

More of my stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.

If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.

sewing the seam to make a cuff

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.

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FREE Knitting Pattern – Cable Fingerless Gloves

Cable Fingerless Gloves

The season is getting colder again, the few apples on my trees are turning red and my mind turns back towards knitting. And oh boy, am I coming up with a bunch of knitting designs! Now here’s to finding the time to publish them all. Work is also back to full-time so that’s great news 😊

A couple of things about this knitting pattern before we grab our favourite worsted weight yarn, double pointed and cable needles and get to work. Like my Owl Fingerless Gloves pattern, I am keeping the stitch count the same and only changing the needles size to change the size of the glove. The pattern on the back of the hand stays proportional in size and placement on the glove remains the same for a better overall look.


I made a number of different lengths of the glove too, for demonstrative purposes. The taupe with flecks (apparently it’s also known as tweed, who knew) is the pattern exactly as written. I repeated the cable pattern once for the grey pair and 4 times for the purple tweed/flecked. There’s a note in the pattern what rows make up the 5 plait cable pattern. Why do 3 cables when you can do 5? I’ve always been a bit of an overachiever 😉

The downloadable PDF version is completed and uploaded it to all my distributors. You can find it on the following fine and upstanding websites – Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and this website.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…

Support my work on patreon
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And here is the obligatory, shameless self promotion of this website so I have some reason to keep writing patterns. You can check out my Help Support My Work page to read more or you can click this link to Buy Me a Coffee. It’s a place where artists, podcasters and other creatives can go to get a quick, one time donation of support from fans. It’s pretty awesome and I’m always grateful for everything I get.

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Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I also have – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It is very plain Jane and it’s the yarn that makes this one pop.

Ok. Enough of that. Let’s get knitting!!!

Things you will need:

worsted weight yarn – I used Red Heart worsted weight (AKA size 4 or 8 ply) yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

Cable needle


This is the brand of yarn I like to use. I’m sure you can find it cheaper than this, but I wanted to show you which one it was. It’s very popular for slippers and other stuff I sell. Just saying’.

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

A Note on Sizing:

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Left Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1-8: K1 P1 around

Row 9: K4 P1 K15 P1 K15

Row 10: K4 P1 C6F twice. K3 P1 K15 (you can click the blue link for a description of how to do a C6F or scroll to the abbreviations section)

Row 11 – 12: as row 9

Row 13: K4 P1 K3 C6B twice. P1 K15 (you can click the blue link for a description of how to do a C6B or scroll to the abbreviations section)

Row 14 – 15: as row 9

Rows 10 to 15 make the cable pattern. Repeat these rows to make the gloves longer as described earlier.

Next Row: K1 M1 K1 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (38 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K6 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K3 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (40 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K8 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K5 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (42 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K10 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K7 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (44 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K12 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K9 M1 K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (46 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K14 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 M1 K11 M1 K2 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K15 (48 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K16 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K2 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K15 (35 sts)

Next Row: K3 P1 K15 P1 K15

Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog

Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.


More knitting patterns you may like:



Right Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1-8: K1 P1 around

Row 9: K18 P1 K15 P1 K1

Row 10: K18 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1

Row 11 – 12: as row 9

Row 13: K18 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1

Row 14 – 15: as row 9

Rows 10 to 15 make the cable pattern. Repeat these rows to make the gloves longer as described earlier.

Next Row: K1 M1 K1 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (38 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K20 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K3 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (40 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K22 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K5 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (42 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K24 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K7 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (44 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K26 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K9 M1 K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (46 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K28 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 M1 K11 M1 K16 P1 K3 C6B twice P1 K1 (48 sts)

Next 2 Rows: K30 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (35 sts)

Next Row: K17 P1 K15 P1 K1

Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog

Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around

Cast off loosely.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Hints and Tips

If you have too many stitches double check to make sure you haven’t picked up a stitch between the needles. If you don’t have enough stitches, did you drop one when you were making the cable? Yes, I do make typos sometimes but I double check and recheck before I publish these patterns and it is more likely you’ve made a slight error while knitting. I’ve given stitch counts at the end of every row to help you along. Please let me know if I legitly did make a mistake. But with saying that, it isn’t always my fault. Some of you get kinda nasty about this and you really need to stop. Here’s the email so you can complain to my manager if that last bit offended you – stfu@email.com. FYI Karens – I am the manager and that email address doesn’t work.

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the cable motif with one needle having 15 stitches. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the cable.

If you like your ribbing to be a little more snug, you can use a smaller size needles to knit this portion. Stepping it down a half size; small – 3.5 mm, medium – 4.5 mm and large 5.5 mm should work. You may want to go smaller. I don’t do this because I always forget to switch back.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section if it works. It’s been acting up since I switched hosting plans. Sorry.

Abbreviations:

C6F – Cable 6 forward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. 

C6B – Cable 6 backward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle. 

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

P2tog – Purl 2 together

Well, that wraps up this knitting pattern. I hope you liked it, have a lot of fun with it, and maybe even make a bit of money from what you make. Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any gloves/mitts that you make from this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reproduce or republish this pattern in any form. Whether it be illegal screen shots of this page, a copy you print from this webpage, or multiple copies of the ONE pattern you paid for and subsequently give to your friends. Yes. All of those behaviours violate copyright laws. And every time you do that, it makes one less pair of eyeballs on my work that takes away from any ad revenue or other profits I may make from my hard efforts in designing and writing these patterns. I don’t work for free. I’m sure you don’t either.