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Easy to Knit Rolled Cuff Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Easy to Knit One Piece Rolled Cuff Slippers - free knitting pattern

I’ve written a number of slipper patterns over the years with a couple of goals in mind, two goals to be specific. The first is to never have any seams to sew. This pattern didn’t meet this requirement. I offer a heartfelt apology for this. 

The other goal is to make them as easy as possible so new knitters or those with not as much experience, can knit something that gives a great final product. This pattern was written specifically to avoid any difficult techniques, specifically, picking up stitches. That is why this pattern is done in one piece; starting at the heel and working towards the toe. 

The cuff is made as you knit the piece. Because of the stitches used, it automatically rolls back up on itself giving a nice finished edge without adding any additional stitches or work. I’m also thinking of making a slipper with a tighter more fitted cuff done in the same, one piece design. Let me know what you think. You can send me an email through my contact page at KweenBee.com/contact.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏽 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

If you would like to avoid the ads on this page or would like to print the pattern, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee from this website at Easy to Knit Rolled Cuff Slippers , through my Etsy shop or on Ravelry. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded to the distributor yet.

Things You Need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 5 mm (US 8 ) single pointed needles

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

Gauge(in stockinette)

18 stitches = 4 inches 

24 rows = 4 inches 

Sizes are written as such:

  • Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
  • Men’s 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13)

Heel Flap

Cast on 2

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Increase in each stitch. (4 sts)

Row 3 – 4 : Knit across.

Row 5: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (6 sts)

Row 6 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (8 sts)

Row 9 – 10: Knit across.

Row 11: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (10 sts)

Row 12 – 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (12 sts)

Row 15 – 16: Knit across.

PLEASE NOTE:

The following rows are for sizes Women’s 10, 11 and 12 and Men’s sizes 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 ONLY:

Next row: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch (14 sts)

Next 2 rows: Knit across.

Continue the pattern for all sizes.

Next row: Cast on 16 stitches. (Yes, you already have 12 (12, 14, 14, 14) stitches on your needle. After casting on, you’ll have 28 (28, 30, 30, 30) sts on your needle). The following is worked over the stitches you just cast on and the stitches from the heel. P4 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). As you worked those stitches, your work was transferred onto the other needle. Cast on another 16 sts onto this needle. (You now have 44 (44, 46, 46, 46 sts) on your needle)

♥ Next row: Knit across.

Next row: P4 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 times more. P4. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) times more for 24, (26, 28, 30, 32) rows total.

Shaping Toe

Next row: K2tog K to the last 2 sts K2tog. (42 (42, 44, 44, 44) sts)

Next row: P3 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P3.

Next row: K2tog K to the last 2 sts K2tog. (40 (40, 42, 42, 42) sts)

Next row: P2 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P2.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: P2 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P2. ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times more for 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) rows total.

End Toe

Next row: K2tog 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) times. K1 K2tog to last 3 sts. K1 K2tog. 

Next row: P1 K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * once P1 K6 (6, 7, 7, 7) *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 time more. P1.

Next row: K1 K2tog 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) times. K1 (1, 0, 0, 0) times. K2tog until last st. K1

Next row: P1 K1 P3 K3 P4.

Break yarn and pull through. Pull tight to draw loops together.

Sew seam on top of toe and the heel flap to the sides of the slipper (the 16 stitches you cast on earlier) and join the edges of the cuff together in the back above the flap.

Hints and Tips

Sew the seam on the top of the toe up to where you K2tog when shaping the toe. If you don’t like what the join looks like, you can always make a pom pom to cover it.

Leave a longer length of yarn when you first start the slipper. You can use this piece to sew one of the seams along the heel flap. When you end the slipper, leave that yarn length longer too. You can use the length to sew the toe seam.

The sizing of these slippers is very forgiving. The garter stitch used throughout helps the slipper to stretch both width and length wise. If your gauge is off by a row or a stitch, you should be able to get the size of slipper you want.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

The pattern allows you to make, sell or give away any of the slippers that you make. You are NOT permitted to redistribute this pattern in any way. The purchase the PDF is for your PERSONAL USE ONLY! Sharing copies of my patterns robs me of what I financially gain from my hard work and creativity that goes into designing my patterns. Please respect my copyright.

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Two Styles of Knitted Slippers with One FREE Knitting Pattern

Two slipper styles with one Knitting pattern

These two slipper styles are actually the same knitting pattern but showcase one side of the work or the other. They are easily made with the same basic knitting stitches and if you can make one style, you can make the other! The pattern is for slippers from a men’s size 6 to 13 and for a women’s 6 to 13. I’ve also provided direct links in the pattern to my YouTube videos demonstrating the knitting stitches required if you need a little help.

If you have never picked up stitches or knitted in the round, this is a great pattern to learn. I made a YouTube video showing how to do this for another pattern (you can read that pattern here – How to Knit Adult Booties), but the technique is similar. You can watch the video snippet right here – Picking up Stitches to Make the Heel the Cuff. The stitch pattern used this video is different, but would still look ok when done the final project.

If you’re loving the free patterns on this site, please consider a small donation to help with the hosting costs of the site. You can learn more about how you can help by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to help financially, which is totally ok btw, please share this pattern with anyone you think may like it. You can use these handy links 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 to share on social media or send it as an email to your friends and family.


And if you’re wanting to get off the internet and would prefer to have this on your phone, tablet or computer, you can download this pattern from my website here – Two Slipper Styles with One Pattern. You can also purchase this pattern through my Etsy shop or through Ravelry. The download is a PDF that you can read on any device or even print if you so desire.


Things you will need:

Click any of the links below to have everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.

200 grams of worsted weight yarn

Set of 2 size 5 mm ( US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Set of 4 size 5 (US size 8) double pointed knitting needles or whatever size needed to obtain the correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew up seams and work in ends.

Two Slippers with one pattern
Two Styles with One Knitting Pattern

Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Cast on 42 sts.

Row 1: P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K12 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3

Row 2: K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 K12 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3

Repeat these two rows until slippers measures as shown in the chart below. End with row 2.

Shoe Size (North America)Length
Men’s 6 – 78″ (20 cm)
Men’s 8 – 98 ½” (21 cm)
Men’s 10 – 119″ (22.5 cm)
Men’s 12 – 139 ½” (24 cm)
Women’s 6 – 77 ½” (18 cm)
Women’s 8 – 98″ (20 cm)
Women’s 10 – 118 ½” (21 cm)
Women’s 12 – 139″ (22.5 cm)
two slippers with one pattern
Slipper A


End Toe – Slipper “A”

Row 1: *(P2tog K2tog) repeat from * 3 times more.  K2tog twice K1 K2tog 3 times *(P2tog K2tog) repeat from * 2 times more P2tog P1

Row 2: K2 *(P1 K1) repeat from * two more times. K7 *(K1 P1) repeat from * two more times. K1

Row 3: K2tog 11 times

Row 4: P11

Draw yarn through loops and pull tight.

Two Slippers with one pattern - Slipper B
Slipper B


End Toe – Slipper “B”

Row 1: K1 (K2tog) 10 times K1 (K2tog) 10 times.

Row 2: P8 K6 P8

Row 3: (K2tog) 5 times K1 (K2tog) 5 times K1

Row 4: P4 K3 P4

Draw yarn through loops and pull tight.

Two Slippers with one pattern - Slipper a
Slipper A

Heel and Cuff – Slipper “A”

With right side facing pick up 14 stitches

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Knit across

Repeat the two rows one more time

Row 5: K2tog K10 K2 tog

Row 6: K12

Row 7: K12

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog

Row 9: K10

Row10: K10

Row 11: K2tog K6 K2 tog

Row 12: K8

Row 13: K8

Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog

Row 15: K6

Row 16: K6

Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog

Row 18: K4

Start Cuff:

With double pointed needles, pick up 18 sts over half of one side, 18 sts on the other, and transfer the 4 stitches created when making the heel. Pick up the stitches over the first half of the slipper and leave the rest for the toe. Fold the sides of the slipper together to give an approximate of where to start picking up stitches on the other side of the slipper. You can also count back 18 stitches along the edge for a starting point.

Row 1- 6: P3 K1 repeat 9 more times for total of 40 sts.

Rows 7 – 10: K around

Bind off loosely.

Sew seams and work in ends of the yarn.

Two Slippers with one pattern - Slipper B
Slipper B

Heel and Cuff – Slipper “B”

With right side facing pick up 14 stitches. 

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Knit across

Repeat the two rows one more time

Row 5: K2tog K10 K2 tog

Row 6: K12

Row7: K12

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog

Row 9: K10

Row10: K10

Row 11: K2tog K6 K2 tog

Row 12: K8

Row 13: K8

Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog

Row 15: K6

Row 16: K6

Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog

Row 18: K4

Start Cuff:

With double pointed needles, pick up 18 sts over half of one side, 18 sts on the other, and transfer the 4 stitches created when making the heel. Pick up the stitches over the first half of the slipper and leave the rest for the toe. Fold the sides of the slipper together to give an approximate of where to start picking up stitches on the other side of the slipper. You can also count back 18 stitches along the edge for a starting point.

Row 1- 6: K3 P1 repeat 9 more times for total of 40 sts.

Rows 7 – 10: K around

Bind off loosely.

Sew seams and work in ends of the yarn.

Extra hints and tips:

When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. A lighter colour with flecks also works quite well. You can use darker or variegated yarn, but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.

The “right side” of the slipper is the side you’ve chosen to be on the outside. For Slipper “A” it is the side that has a more striped appearance. Slipper “B” looks more ribbed. No one said that the heel and cuff had to match anyways, so you may want to switch them up!

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

P2tog – purl 2 together

sts – stitches

If you have any questions or comments you’d rather keep private, you can send me an email through my contact page.

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Eight Slipper Styles to Knit

Eight Slipper Styles to Knit - Knitting Pattern Book

Well, I’m back at it again. Updating my old patterns with new photos and the occasional typo fix. I’m also very pleased to say that I have had enough of rehashing the old and am nearly done. Just a couple more to go.

So like always I’ve made this compilation of my original slipper patterns available as a PDF, Kindle and physical book. The book is available only through Amazon at this point. Like my other compilations, please pick the country you’re from so if you are an Amazon Prime member, you’ll get the shipping for free.

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

The patterns themselves are still all free to read on the website (the links are listed further down this post). You won’t be able to print them from the site. I lose ad revenue if you do… Betchya didn’t even think of that before 😉. I’ve kept the cost for a printable PDF very low so it’s definitely within everyone’s budget. It’s less than a ball of yarn! You can purchase the PDF through this website here – Eight Slipper Styles to Knit or you can get it through my Etsy shop here – Eight Slipper Styles to Knit – Updated and Revised.

For those comfortable with reading patterns online, clicking any of the links below will take you right to it.

Easy to Knit Bow Slippers

Easy to Knit Slippers

Two Slippers with One Pattern

How to Knit Children’s Slippers

How to Knit Adult Slippers

How to Knit Slippers Just Like Granny Made

Adult Booties

How to Knit Sheep Slippers

And to beat any Karen’s to the punch…if you’re scrolling past everything here to leave a nasty comment that I’m lying about free patterns. Or maybe you feel you need some passive/aggressive, poor you bullish!t that it’s too hard to close an ad to follow a link, please move on and don’t use my patterns. I don’t want my good in the world tarnished by someone as entitled as yourself. And also, learn how to use the internet before you start your self absorbed, unfounded complaints.

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Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit

Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit cover art

I’ve been busy as of late! I’ve updated photos and rewritten a few of my fingerless glove and mitt patterns over the last few weeks to bring you yet another compilation of all my mitt and glove patterns! To date, there are a total of 9 patterns all together. All the favourites, and a couple that were so old you may not have even known they existed. For some reason, people don’t seem to like to do searches of this site or follow links. It’s weird TBH.

Currently, it is only available through retailers online. You can order a physical copy through Amazon with free shipping if you are an Amazon Prime member. As I write this I am making a selection of my publications to physical book stores. It’s a bit of a process to make this happen but hopefully 🤞🏼 I’ll get the formatting down and accepted. Marketing is pricey so I need to be selective on how I’m going to approach this. Wish me luck!

Patterns to make all of the mitts and gloves in the photos below are included with this pattern collection.

But on to my latest publication. This collection contains patterns for fingerless gloves knit flat on 2 needles and seamless gloves and mittens knit in the round on double pointed needles (DPN). This compilation also includes mitts that are specifically designed for texting. And lastly, another design to free your fingers when you need them but cover your fingers when required. In short, this collection meets all your fashion and functionality requirements.

You can purchase and print the PDF yourself if you like. It is cheaper that way, of course. You can purchase it from my website here – Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knit or from my Etsy shop here – Nine Knitting Patterns! – Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Collection. Either way I would like you to know it’s 106 pages. It’s a lot to print, but if you are comfortable reading PDF’s on your table or phone, this a very economical option. You can also just print the pattern you want by selecting the pages and printing on two sides of the page, but you’ll have to know how to do this. I can’t help you because every printer has a different way of doing it.

If you want to purchase the printed book, delivered to your door for free if you’re an Amazon Prime member, please click the country you are in:

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

This publication is available in English only.

Like always, all of the patterns are free to read on this website. They are ad supported and unprintable. Sorry, but too many people were just printing the pages leaving me with nothing but a bill for web hosting costs. You may not realize this, but with each illegal print, you cost me advertising revenue. I am writing patterns to help support me and my family, not charity. I can only give so much folks!

The list of the patterns in this collection include the following (all titles are clickable links to the pattern btw):

Super Simple Fingerless Gloves
Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves
How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!
Basic Long Fingerless Gloves
Cable Fingerless Gloves or Mitts
Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves
Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts
Arm Warmers or Gloves – with BOWS!

I’ve also organized it so there is a specific page with all of the glove and mitten patterns in one place. You can see that here: Fingerless Gloves and Flip Mitts – FREE Knitting Patterns

I hope to keep you all informed of my progress with getting my patterns in real stores. The potential is there and I’m really excited where this next stage of my pattern writing journey takes me.

Happy knitting everyone!!!

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How to Knit a Pair of Flip Mittens or Fingerless Gloves

Free knitting pattern - flip mitts

Make yourself a nifty pair of flip mitts. They’re hip, trendy and handier than a pocket on a shirt! Not only can you make these super awesome mitts for just about anyone from teen to adult, but you can forgo the finger portion and make some cool fingerless gloves. Technically, they’re fingerless mittens but that just sounds weird.

They’re knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. You’ll need to know how to knit to make this project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.

The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand, medium is an average lady’s hand, large is for an average man’s hand, and extra large will fit a very large man’s hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each. Keep scrolling to read how to make the finger flap. Sorry, this pattern is a bit of a mammoth 😏



If you would prefer, you can also download this pattern to any device such as a smartphone, computer or tablet. The PDF of this pattern is available on my website here: Knitted Flip Mitts and Fingerless Gloves. It will be available in all my retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy and Lovecraft’s. I’m also working on a compilation of all my glove and mitten patterns that will be a book on Amazon.

Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Support my work on patreon
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Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 5 mm (US size 8) double pointed needles (or whatever size needles you need to get the correct gauge).

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastener (AKA – Velcro*)

Permanent glue

Gauge

18 stitches = 4 inches

24 rows = 4 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 28 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K26.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. K26.

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, K26.

Round 35 – 37: Knit

Round 38 – 42: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 12: Knit

Round 13: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 14: Knit

Pull yarn through.

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You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K30.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. K30.

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, K30.

Round 38 – 40: Knit

Round 41 – 45: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 13: Knit

Round 14: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 15: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. K34.

Round 37 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. K34.

Round 40: K1, pick up a st, K34.

Round 41 – 43: Knit

Round 44 – 49: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 20: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Extra Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 13 – 17: Knit

Round 18: K1, pick up a st, k1, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 37-38: Knit

Round 39: K1, pick up a st, k15, pick up a stitch. K38.

Round 40 – 41: Knit

Round 42: K1, place next 17 sts onto the stitch holder. K38.

Round 43: K1, pick up a st, K38.

Round 44 – 46: Knit

Round 47 – 52: K2, P2

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 17 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 17 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K2tog around. (You may have to pass the last stitch from one dpn the next dpn to do this).

Round 22: Knit

Pull yarn through.

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Finger Flap

Instructions are written for small (medium, large, extra large)

Cast on 32 (36, 40, 44) loosely.

Round 1 – 6: K2 P2

Round 7 and on: Knit around until work measures 3 (3.5, 4, 4.5) inches from the cast on edge.

Next round: K1 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2 tog K2 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2 tog K2 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2 tog K2 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Next round: K1 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2 tog K2 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2tog K1.

Next 2 rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the thumb is along the edge of fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Graft Fingertips

The divided stitches will look something like this:

How to graft stitches knitting

With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.

Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.

🌺 Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.

Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. 🌺

Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 until there are no stitches left on either needle.

 Pull the yarn tight.

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the back of the mitten first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the finger flap back (off the fingers). Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.

How to Pick Up a Stitch

I use this method to increase a stitch or pick up a stitch because it doesn’t leave a hole in your work. It takes a little longer to do but worth the effort in the final piece.

Make the stitch in the yarn stretched between two stitches.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Pick the yarn up with the needle.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Transfer the stitch onto the opposite needle.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

Knit this newly formed stitch. You may have to pull the yarn forward a bit to get your needle beneath the yarn.

how to pick up a stitch knitting

It automatically twists the stitch eliminating the hole.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb or finger flap, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.

Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.

Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be 😎

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FREE Knitting Pattern – How to Knit Texting Mittens

How to Knit Texting Mitts - Knitting Pattern

Improve your texting in cold climates with these thumbless mittens. More than just a pair of fingerless gloves, these keep your hands warm and only expose your thumbs when needed. The thumb pocket is sewn on and the flap is secured at the base of the palm with Velcro* for easy access. The flap hangs in the back out of the way to enable your texting abilities. Plan on using your thumbs for a while? Then simply tuck the flap into the thumb pocket.

The sizes are each written separately as each size is a bit different in row and stitch counts. Scroll down this post to the size you would like to make. Medium fits the average lady’s hand, large for men, and small for pre-teens.

Don’t forget to share this post!

Don’t want to come back here to read the pattern? You can download the pattern to your tablet, phone or computer from my website at Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts. You can also get it from other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrafts. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to the site yet. It will be ASAP.

If you enjoy this and my other free knitting and crochet patterns, please Help Support My Work. It doesn’t have to be financial, though that’s always appreciated. Every like, share and follow also helps me keep this website running.

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Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my

Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 4.5 mm double pointed needles

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastener (AKA – Velcro)

Glue

Gauge

10 stitches = 2 inches

13 rows = 2 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts.. There should be 31 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 35 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 31 sts until work measures approximately 3.5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K10 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K6, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (if you scroll to the end of the post there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Working over the 3 sts you just cast on, K3. Leave these 3 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Transfer these 3 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 25: Knit

Round 28: K2tog, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2tog, K1 .

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog four times

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

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Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 35 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 38 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 35 sts until work measures approximately 4 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K12 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 38 – 39: Knit

Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 39 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 41 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 39 sts until work measures approximately 5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K14 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K13, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K12, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 8: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: K1, pick up a st, K5, pick up a st, K1. (9 sts)

Row 16: Purl

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: Purl

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Purl

Row 21: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 9 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 22 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 4 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 40: Knit

Round 41: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K1, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.If you are unfamiliar with how to end the fingertips on mittens (this works for socks as well), I’ve added a picture tutorial at the end of another pattern. Instead of me adding all the photos and instructions again, here’s the link to learn how – 
How to Graft Fingertips

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Thumb Flap

With the yarn left from where you continued the thumb, attach the thumb flap to the mitten. Make sure that you attach the thumb flap to the back side of the left and right mittens accordingly. Easiest way is to lay the mitts flat with the thumbs pointing in opposite directions.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro that will fit on the base of the thumb flap. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the THUMB FLAP first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the thumb flap forward in the toasty warm thumb position. With the Velcro still together, place the Velcro where the bottom of the flap touches the palm of the mitten. Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.Like grafting the fingertips, I’ve also shown how to pick up a stitch without leaving a hole. If you’d like to see how it’s done, here’s the link to learn how – How to Pick up a Stitch

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

Make sure when attaching the Velcro to the thumb flap, that the fuzzy half of the Velcro is what you use for the flap. In other words, which ever side feels less rough. The other pokey side should go on the palm of the mitt. That way the Velcro won’t stick to the inside of the thumb flap when folded back into itself.

When picking up stitches to finish the thumb on the mitt, leave a long piece of yarn to sew on the thumb flap. This saves on the number of ends to sew in when you’re done.

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

*Velcro is a registered trademark.

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Seven Slipper Styles to Knit – A Knitting Pattern Collection

seven slipper styles to knit - a knitting pattern collection

I don’t usually do posts like this but I thought I’d make it easier for everyone to get this knitting pattern collection. There is both a physical book you can get, a downloadable PDF that you can print and of course, all the individual patterns are free to read on this website if purchasing isn’t an option for you.


We’ll start with the links to the FREE, ad supported patterns. Clicking on the title will take you to the pattern page. I’ve listed the slipper patterns included in the publication below:

Adult Moccasin Slippers

Knitted Plaid Slippers

Ribbed Bootie Slippers

Owl Slippers

Cable Knit Slippers

Super Cozy Texture Bootie Slippers

Super Simple Easy to Knit Slippers


Seven Slipper Styles to Knit
Seven Slipper Styles to Knit – Paperback Version

If you would like to purchase the paperback version of the slipper pattern collection, it’s available on Amazon only. It is very reasonably priced at $12.99 USD and shipping is included if you’re a prime member. The price is automatically converted into your county’s currency equivalent. Be sure that you order it from YOUR COUNTRY. If not you’ll be charged shipping. I’ve included the links from each country. Unfortunately, the paperback version isn’t available in very county.

USA

Canada

United Kingdom

If the patten collection isn’t available in your country or you would prefer a less expensive option and print it yourself, you can purchase the PDF Version from two places. Ravelry and LoveCrafts don’t allow for collections like this.

Etsy – Seven Slipper Styles to Knit

This website – Seven Slipper Styles to Knit – A Knitting Pattern Collection

A quick note on other places that you can get this collection from. Amazon does offer the Kindle version of the slipper pattern collection in all countries. I don’t think you can print the pattern off on a Kindle. That defeats the purpose of creating this post that helps you find where you can get a physical copy of the slipper patterns.

Eight Slipper Patterns to Knit

Eight Slipper Styles to Knit

And in case you were unaware, I did another collection of my slipper patterns years ago. I never made it into a paperback (though if anyone was interested, please let me know).

You can purchase the printable PDF from the following places:

Etsy – Eight Slipper Styles to Knit

This Website – Eight Slipper Styles to Knit


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Super Simple Easy to Knit Slippers – Free Knitting Pattern

Super Simple Easy to Knit Slipper Pattern

These slippers are perfect for a beginner! If you know how to cast on, knit, purl, K2tog, M1, and draw through (or gather) stitches you will be able to make these slippers. Don’t know how? I have videos. They’re REALLY old but they show you what to do. Here’s the playlist to get you started:

And just to let you know, if you’re looking for a how-to for a specific stitch, if you click the 3 bars with the arrow in the upper right hand corner of the video below, the complete video tutorial list pops up.

Happy days! Because I was asked by a number of people to make a printable version this pattern, I made up the PDF! You can get it in all my usual places. The first is right from this site. Click this link to download and print this pattern – Super Simple Easy to Knit Slippers – Great Knitting Pattern for Beginners. You can also find it in my Etsy shop and on Ravelry.

Loving the free patterns on this site? You can always help me out by sharing this with people you think may like it. A share on social media is always appreciated. You can use the links below👇🏽👇🏽👇🏽. Financial donations are always welcome, too! I recently started a profile on Buy Me a Coffee. It’s a one time donation that is a simple thanks for all the hard work I put into my patterns and this website.


If you are looking to print this pattern and others, You can help support me on Patreon. I have a number of printable patterns available to download when you support me at $4 USD and month. You can access the patterns as long as you remain a supporter and download them as many times as you like. As of the writing of this post, there are 16 knitting patterns on there; it’s a heck of a good deal. And as a plus, I post every new pattern I write on Patreon to download. Patreon also sends all my supporters an email with each new post. This means you’ll never miss a new pattern.

Sound good? Awesome! Click this link to get started…


Things You Will Need:

Worsted weight yarn (aka 4 or Aran weight or 10 ply) I like acrylic. It washes and wears well. It’s also easy to find and rather inexpensive.

Size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

Tapestry needle (to sew seams and work in the ends)

Knitted socks can be slippery on wood floors but I find that this can help:

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Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size needles you need to create the number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge or the sizing could be off. But even in saying that, this is a very forgiving pattern. If you’re off a bit, it’ll be okay.

4″ = 16 stitches

4″ = 40 rows

Sizes are written as follows:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11,12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

It’s only the numbers of rows that are going to change with the sizing.

To Begin – Making the Heel Flap

Cast on 3 stitches

(I’m counting this as row 1 only because I mis-numbered the rows when I originally posted this knitting pattern. It was easier to change it at the beginning than renumbering the entire pattern.)

Rows 2 – 3: Knit across

Row 4: K1 M1 K2. (4 sts)

Rows 5 – 6: Knit across

Row 7: K1 M1 K2 M1 K1 (6 sts)

Rows 8 – 9: Knit across

Row 10: K1 M1 K4 M1 K1 (8 sts)

Rows 11 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K1 M1 K6 M1 K1 (10 sts)

Rows 14 – 15: Knit across

Row 16: K1 M1 K8 M1 K1 (12 sts)

Rows 17 – 18: Knit across

Row 19: K1 M1 K10 M1 K1 (14 sts)

Rows 20 – 21: Knit across

Row 22: K1 M1 K12 M1 K1 (16 sts)

Row 23 – 24: Knit across

Row 25: Cast on 14 sts. (Yes, you already have 16 stitches on your needle. Don’t break your yarn. Simply cast on. The next stitches are knit into the stitches you cast on and the original 16 that were there). * P1 K1 * Repeat from * to * 6 more times. P1 K14 P1. (30 sts)

Row 26: Cast on 14 sts. (Yes again.) ⟡ K1 P1 ⟡ Repeat from ⟡ to ⟡ 6 more times. K16 ⦷ P1 K1 ⦷ Repeat for ⦷ to ⦷ 6 more times. (44 sts)

Row 27: ⧱ P1 K1 ⧱ Repeat from ⧱ to ⧱ 6 more times. P1 K14 P1. ⨳ K1 P1 ⨳ Repeat from ⨳ to ⨳ 6 more times (44 sts)

Row 28: ⋚ K1 P1 ⋚ Repeat from ⋚ to ⋚ 6 more times. K16 ⨈ P1 K1 ⨈ Repeat from ⨈ to ⨈ 6 more times.⧭

Repeat ⧭ to ⧭ 28 (31, 34, 37) times.

Another way to think of it, you will have knit 56 (62, 68, 74) rows TOTAL.

***END WITH ROW 27***. This maintains the pattern.

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Ending the Toe

Next row: K1 K2tog 12 times. K1 K2tog to the end of the row.

Next row: P8 K7 P8

Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch.

Next row: P5 K3 P4.

Pull the yarn through or draw stitches together. Cut the yarn leaving 12″ or so.

Finishing

Sew up the seam from where you gathered the toe stitches to roughly 2/3 up the foot.

Flip up the heel flap and sew up the seams on the back of the heel.

Work in your ends.

Abbreviations

If you’re unsure how to do any of the following, click the link to watch the video demo.

Cast on – cast on

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

M1 – Make one (Makes one stitch increase)

draw through (or gather) stitches

Hints and Tips

It’s important to sew the toe seam close to 2/3 of the way from the toe to the ankle. Any less and it will feel a bit sloppy on the wearer’s foot. Any further and it will be too tight for the wearer to get over their heel. You can lay it out and measure it or simply eyeball it. It’s not rocket science.

If you want to pick up stitches to add the heel flap after instead of how I did it in one piece, cast on 44 sts to start and then start at row 27.

This is a good pattern to use variegated yarn. The pattern is very simple so the yarn texture and print can really show off. You can use the self striping yarn, but getting the stripes to match will be difficult.

Like all my patterns, you can sell whatever slippers you make with this pattern. You are NOT permitted to print or copy this pattern in any way. You are not permitted to copy or redistribute this pattern in any form including, but not limited to, any physical or digital versions. To do so will violated copyright law. And give you bad karma.

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How to Knit Ribbed Bootie Slippers for Adults

Knitted adult ribbed bootie slippers

I designed these knitted adult bootie slippers to be as easy to knit as possible. They are knit flat with no extra needles or special techniques required. If you know how to cast onpurlknit and cast off you will be more than capable of finishing these for yourself or someone else! If you’re not sure or need a little practice, clicking on any of the links below will show you how with a how-to knitting video demonstrating the technique 😉 And if you’re looking for an ad free pattern you can download to your computer, tablet or phone you can get that here – How to Knit Ribbed Adult Booties or my Etsy shop or Ravelry for a small fee.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

The pattern is written to fit feet from a ladies size 6 – 12 and a man’s 5 – 12. I’m still on the fence as whether to design these to fit children. The sizing involves a lot of math and knitting sample sizes and I’m really not too excited about taking on either of those tasks. Let me know if you want it for kids. If there’s enough of you out there, I’ll do it.

Knitted adult ribbed bootie slippers

If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons down there 👇🏼 let you do it easily and helps me immensely 😁. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


Things You Need

Click any link below to get everything you need to make these slippers mailed right to your door.

Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles (or whatever size you need to get the correct gauge.)

Darning Needle to sew in ends

Yarn – any standard ball of 200+ yards (220 m) of worsted weight yarn will do.

Use this to stop slippers from sliding



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.



Gauge is in stockinette (Be sure to check to obtain correct sizing!)

18 sts = 4 inches

26 rows = 4 inches

Sizes are written for women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

and for a men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Knitted Adult Ribbed Bootie Slippers Pattern

Heel Flap

Cast on 3

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: K, inc in next stitch, K (4 sts)

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Inc in first stitch, K2, inc in last stitch (6 sts)

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Inc in first stitch, K4, inc in last stitch (8 sts)

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Inc in first stitch, K6, inc in last stitch (10 sts)

Row 9: Knit

Row 10: Inc in first stitch, K8, inc in last stitch (12 sts)


Starting the Ankle and Foot

Row 11: K12. Cast on 23 (26, 26, 29). You now have 35 (38, 38, 41 sts total)

Row 12: Knit across. Cast on 23 (26, 26, 29). You now have 58 (64, 64, 70 sts)

Row 13: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 14: Knit

Row 15: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 16: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

*Row 17: Knit

Row 18: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 19: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 20: Knit

Row 21: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 22: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)*

Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 4, 5more times.

Please note: Repeat rows 17 and 18 for every size.

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Decreasing for the Foot

Next row: Cast off K10 (12, 12, 14), P12 (13, 13, 14), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14). You now have 48 (52, 52, 56 sts total).

Next row: Cast off K10 (12, 12, 14). Knit remaining stitches. You now have 38 (40, 40, 42 sts total).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

✪ Next row: Knit

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: Knit

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).✪

Repeat from ✪ to ✪ 3 more times for every size.

End of Toe

Next row: K2tog across. 19 (20, 20, 21 sts)

Next row: P7 (7, 7, 8) K6 P6 (7, 7, 7)

Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch for ladies’ size 6-7 and 12 or men’s size 5-6 and 11-12.

Break yarn and pull through.

Make another slipper to match.

Sew seams and work in ends.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.


Hints and Tips

When starting the slipper, leave a long length of yarn when casting on. You can use this length to sew up the back seam of the slipper and will give less ends to sew in when done.

Work in the ends and don’t just knot them off. The knots will rub on the wearer’s foot and make them decidedly uncomfortable.

When sewing the seams, be sure to yank on them a bit before working in the ends. You want as much yarn securing the seams so that the seam will stretch the length of the foot and the ankle.

When casting off for the ankle, be sure to do so loosely. It will allow the seam to stretch.

In case you’re not sure what part of the slipper you are making and how it goes together, I’ve added some pictures that will help.

Knitted Ribbed Adult Booties Slipper Pattern

How it goes together. Fold it in half and sew the seams for the toe and ankle.

Knitted Ribbed Adult Booties Slipper Pattern

There has been a bit of confusion on how to sew the seams along the back of the slippers, so I knit another pair and took a few photos to show what the back of the slipper should look like. 

Below are two photos showing how to flip up the heel flap triangle and fit it into the back of the slipper. Sew the back seam down to where the top of the heel flap triangle reaches without stretching it. Sew each side of the triangle to the remaining rows along each side as shown.

How to sew the back seam of ribbed adult slippers.
Sew the seam of ribbed adult slippers.

Happy knitting!

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FREE Knit Slipper Pattern – Chevron Striped Moccasin Slippers

Chevron Stripe Knitted Slipper Pattern - Moccasin Style

This is another version of my very popular Adult Moccasin Slippers. I thought I’d jazz these slippers up a bit by adding some details to the top of the toe with a striped eyelet/chevron combo. I also made the cuff a little longer to fit even more like a bootie. I like how the final product turned out and is very gender neutral.

Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Adult Chevron Stripe Moccasin Slippers. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to the website yet 😉.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Support my work on patreon

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons 👇🏼 to do so easily.


This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches, knit two stitches together, yarn over and pass a slipped stitch over, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

There is a lot of breaking and reconnecting the yarn to create the different portions of the slipper: the cuff, toe, sides and sole. I’ve created a very succinct picture tutorial showing how to work in the ends as you go so there are fewer to sew in at the end. If you do it right, you’ll only have one, and that’s the length you leave at the end to sew up the heel seam. Here’s the link to see how – Working in the Ends While Knitting. This also a handy skill to have when knitting just about anything, tbh. 


Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support my pattern writing (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I tried using some for one of the test knits for this slipper. It didn’t work. The holes and the angled striping virtually disappeared among the splotches. Also, I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend. Besides, it’s also hard to match the striping up and you waste a lot of yarn.

So here is the stuff you need…

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Use this product to make knitted slippers less slippery.



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

To Begin – Cuff

Cast on 35 (37, 39, 41, 43)

Knit across for 9 (9, 911, 11) rows. 

Next Row: With the WRONG side facing, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), P13, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).

🌸 Next Row: K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), K1 Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass this stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle, as if to knit, taking care not to twist. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).

Next Row: K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), P13, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).🌸

Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more. You’ll have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) holes of the pattern made.

Break yarn when completed last row.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn. 

🪲 The following stitch combination is worked over the next 15 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the eyelet and chevron stripe motif). K2 (Yes, 2) Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass the stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K1 Leave the remaining 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked. You will have a line of garter (knit) stitches running along side the chevron stripes.

Next Row: K1 P13 K1. 🪲

The repeating rows are worked back and forth on the 15 stitch toe flap stitches only!

Repeat from 🪲 to 🪲 for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13more times for a total of 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) repeats. You’ll have 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) holes of the pattern made when counted from the beginning.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 15 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 15 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on  ONE needle. There are (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle).

With another needle, knit the 15 stitches of the toe flap. (15 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 10 (11,12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle)

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

How to knit slippers
I used a double pointed needle to work my 15 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 15 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) rows

There are 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

How to knit slippers
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 14 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and pick up the first cast off stitch by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

How to knit slippers
This photo is taken from the right side.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).

Knitting Pattern - Owl Slippers
Left edge

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).

Right edge

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Starting the sole. Right side.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
More of My Stuff on Etsy

Making the Heel

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (15 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across.

Owl Slippers knitting pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making the adult size of this slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers ☺)

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (You’ll have 13 stitches the first time you do this.)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K3tog K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: K3tog.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily. I’ve had a number of positive reviews on Etsy from my well-slippered customers.

Hints and Tips

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. There’s a pictorial on my website that shows you how. Here’s the link – Working in the Ends While Knitting.

Abbreviations

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

PSSO – pass slipped stitch over

YO – yarn over

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.


Posted on 24 Comments

FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern – Moccasin Style

FREE Knitted Slippers Pattern

This is a simplified version of my very popular Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern. I realized that not everyone may want owls on their slippers. That a more plain slipper was something that any man, woman or child would wear as “knitted slippers” without fear of judgement (and if you’re so inclined to experience that lack of judgment, you can now buy a finished pair here – Adult Moccasin Slippers or in my Etsy shop). I’m not sure about someone who’d judge someone wearing owl slippers, but that’s really not the point. And oh yeah. The child sizes are finished! If you would like to knit up a quick pair of the child version, you can read that pattern here – FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern for Children.

Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Adult Moccasin Slippers with a Cuff. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, Google Play, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 😉.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Support my work on patreon

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons 👇🏼 to do so easily.


This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Use this product to make knitted slippers less slippery.



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop


Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows


Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42)

Knit across for 22 (24, 26, 28) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.

Toe Flap

Next row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches. Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

Knit across for 42 (44, 46, 48) rows.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.


Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (32 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the other needle unworked for now. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

How to knit slippers
I used a double pointed needle to work my 14 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 14 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

How to knit slippers
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

How to knit slippers
This photo is taken from the right side.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Knitting Pattern - Owl Slippers
Left edge

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

🦋 Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Owl Slippers Knitting Pattern - Pick up a Stitch
Right edge

Next Row: Knit across 🦋

Repeat from 🦋 to 🦋 down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Starting the sole. Right side.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches .

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Making the Heel

🧚🏽‍♀️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count downtime same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).

Owl Slippers knitting pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making the adult size of this slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers 😉)

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. 🧚🏽‍♀️ Repeat from 🧚🏽‍♀️ to 🧚🏽‍♀️ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.


Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.

Abbreviations

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something.

To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work!  A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely 🥰


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Easy to Knit Slippers – Great Beginner FREE Knitting Pattern

Easy to Knit Slippers Pattern

This is a great knitting pattern for beginners because it only uses basic stitches that are very easy master. I’ve included links in the pattern to videos on YouTube that show you how to preform each stitch, making this a great pattern to teach yourself how to knit.

This is also a great project for experienced knitters because these slippers are very quick and easy to make. The pattern enables you to make a variety of sizes, from a woman’s size 6 up to a man’s size 14. 

If you are loving the free patterns, please feel free to share this pattern with anyone and everyone you think may like it. You can use any of the buttons below to share it with whatever social media accounts you have.


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I don’t have this pattern up on my Patreon site yet, but it’s in the works. In the meantime, there are 13 patterns that you can download and print when yo support me at $4 a month. You can click this link Janis Frank on Patreon or click the button below.

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If you’d rather have the ad free downloadable version of this pattern for a small fee, you can find it here – Easy to Knit Slippers or in my Etsy shop.

Things you will need:

Having a hard time finding what you need? Click any of the links below to have exactly what you require to finish these slippers mailed right to your door.

200 grams of worsted weight yarn (I find Red Heart wears well and easy to maintain).

Set of size 5 ( US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew up the seams and work in the ends.

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Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Slippers are given for a woman’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13, 14-15)
or man’s sizes 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14). The foot lengths of a woman’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a man’s size 5-6 and so on.

Cast on 40 (48, 48, 48, 48)

Row 1: *K2 P2* Repeat from * to* 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2 P12 Repeat from * to* 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times K2.

Row 2: *P2 K2* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. P2 K12 Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times P2.

Row 3: Repeat row 1.

Row 4: Knit across.

Repeat rows 1 through 4 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more.


Shape toe: 

Next row: Repeat row 1.

Next row: Repeat row 2.

Next row: *K2tog P2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2tog. (P2tog) Repeat 5 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K2tog. [20 (24, 24, 24, 24) sts remain.]

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K1 *K2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. (P2tog) Repeat 2 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K1. [11 (13, 13, 13, 13) sts remain.]

Next row: P4 (P5, P5, P5, P5) K3 P4 (P5, P5, P5, P5).

Cut the yarn leaving approximately 12” to sew up toe seam.  Draw yarn through stitches and pull tight to form toe. Bring edges together and sew half of the stitches together to form toe taking care to match the stitches together to form an invisible seam. Make another slipper to match.

To Make Heel Flap:

***For woman’s size 6-7 and man’s size 5-6 ONLY!***

With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 12 stitches along the sole edge.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: P2tog P8 P2tog (10 sts)

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K2tog K6 K2tog (8 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row11: Knit

Row 12: P2tog P4 P2tog (6 sts)

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: K2tog K2 K2tog (4 sts)

Row 16: Purl

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: P1 P2tog P1 (3 sts)

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Bind off.

For all remaining slipper sizes:

With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 12 stitches along the sole edge.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Repeat rows 1 – 2 3 times more

Row 9: Knit

Row 10: P2tog P8 P2tog (10 sts)

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: K2tog K6 K2tog (8 sts)

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: Knit

Row 16: P2tog P4 P2tog (6 sts)

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: Purl

Row 19: K2tog K2 K2tog (4 sts)

Row 20: Purl

Row 21: Knit

Row 22: P1 P2tog P1 (3 sts)

Row 23: Knit

Row 24: Bind off.

Make a heal flap for the other slipper. Sew up the seams of heal flap and work in all the yarn ends.


Extra Tips

The pattern is written as simply as possible, but here are a few extra tips that may help you.

Knit what is between the * * once. Then knit whatever is between the * * again however many times more the pattern instructs you to.

When the pattern say repeat between * * however many times, knit the portion as many times as it instructs. Simply put, the slippers always have an equal number of knitted “ridges” and purled “valleys” on each side of the sole. There are 4 “ridges” and 3 “valleys” on the smallest size and 5 “ridges” and 4 “valleys” on all the other sizes.

When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. You can use darker or variegated yarn but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.

Happy knitting!

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me through my contact page.

This pattern enables you to sell or give away anything you may make with it. It does NOT allow you to redistribute, sell, give away or copy the pattern in any way without WRITTEN permission.

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FREE Knitting Pattern – Adult & Child Knitted Slippers…With BOWS!!

Bow Slippers Knitting Pattern

Hand knit slippers are wonderful, but it’s always nice to be able to make a fancier pair, especially if you are making them as a gift. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for girls from size 9 up to a woman’s size 12. You can keep scrolling or click here to read the child pattern.

The stitches used to make the slippers are very basic and this pattern includes detailed instructions and step by step photos that show how to create the bows. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.


If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting onknit stitchpurlbind offknit 2 togetherdraw through, and how to pick up stitches to make the heel. 


If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons 👆🏼 to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

Not a fan of reading things online or would like to print this pattern? You can download the ad free PDF version of this pattern for a small here – Easy to Knit Bow Slippers, from Ravelry or from my Etsy Shop.

If you like the patterns and would like to print this and many other of my patterns, support me on Patreon. For only $4 a month you can easily print this and other patterns ad free. Click this link Janis Frank on Patreon or the button below to see all of my patterns.

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Somehow found yourself on this page and absolutely LOVE these but don’t know or have the time to knit yourself a pair. I sell them right here too! Here’s the link to this shameless plug – Custom Order Bow Slippers

Things you will need:

Having a hard time knowing what you need? Click any of the links below to have everything sent right to your door.

200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).

Size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew seams and work in the ends

I use this yarn a lot.

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Gauge: 

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Woman’s size 6 – 12

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Cast on 44

Row 1: K5 P1 K3 P1 K24 P1 K3 P1 K5

Row 2: K6 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K6

Row 3: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).

Purl the next stitch*

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K24 Repeat from * to * K5.

(Row 3 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch* K24 Repeat from * to * K5.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Repeat row 3.

Row 8: Repeat row 2. The bow portion will look like this.

 How to knit a bow

Row 9: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.

How to knit a bow

Knit the next stitch.

How to knit a bow

Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.

(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.

The bow portion will look like this.

How to knit a bow

Row 10: Repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3 to 10 3(3, 4, 4) more times.

Next row: K2tog K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to *K3 K2tog. (42 sts)

Next row: K5 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K5.

Next row: K2tog K2 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K2 K2tog. (40 sts)

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. (40 sts)

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

🍄 Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4. 🍄

Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 1(1, 2, 2) times more.


Form Toe:

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K13 P1 K12 P1 K13.

Repeat these two rows 0 (1, 0, 3) times more.

Next row: K2tog K36 K2tog. (38 sts)

Next row: K12 P1 K12 P1 K12.

Next row: K2tog K34 K2tog. (36 sts)

Next row: K11 P1 K12 P1 K11.

Next row: K2tog across. (18 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog across (9 sts).

Next row: Knit across.

Break yarn and draw yarn through stitches to gather together to finish the toe.

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Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches. 

Row 1 – 4 : Knit across.

Row 5: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)

Row 6 -7 Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 9 – 10: Knit across.

Row 11: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 12 – 13: Knit across.

Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 15 – 16: Knit across.

Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 18: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 19 – 20: Knit across.

Bind off

Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams, work in the ends and enjoy!


Child Slippers size 9 – 3

Knitting pattern for kids - Slippers

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 9-10 (11-12, 13-1, 2-3)

Cast on 34

Row 1: K3 P1 K3 P1 K18 P1 K3 P1 K3

Row 2: K4 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K4

Row 3: K3 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K3 

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Repeat row 3.

Row 8: Repeat row 2.

Row 9: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K3.

Row 10: Repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3 to 10 1(1, 2, 2) more times.

Next row: K2tog K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to *K1 K2tog. (32 sts)

Next row: K3 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K3.

Next row: K2tog *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K2tog. (30 sts)

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

🍔 Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2. 🍔

Repeat from  🍔 to 🍔 0 (0, 1, 1) times more.

Form Toe:

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K9 P1 K10 P1 K9.

Repeat these two rows 0 (3, 0, 2) times more.

Next row: K2tog K26 K2tog. (28 sts)

Next row: K8 P1 K10 P1 K8.

Next row: K2tog K24 K2tog. (26 sts)

Next row: K7 P1 K10 P1 K7.

Next row: K2tog across. (13 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog 3 times K1 K2tog 3 times (7 sts).

Next row: Knit across.

Break yarn and draw yarn through stitches to gather together to finish the toe.

Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.

Row 1 – 2 : Knit across.

Row 3: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 4 – 5: Knit across.

Row 6: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 7 – 8: Knit across.

Row 9: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 10 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 13 – 14: Knit across.

Row 15: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 16: Knit across.

Bind off.

Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams and work in ends.


Hints and tips:

When creating the strands, pull apart the 3 stitches passed over to the other needle. This allows for some additional slack in the strand across the 3 unworked stitches.

Sometimes the bows will appear lopsided. If you put your knitting needle under the 3 strands and pull gently on one side and then the other, you can easily even them out.

This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurments such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.

Posted on

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.

This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.

Like always, you can find the ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF version of this pattern through all my regular online purveyors of creation such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts and of course this website at Adult Moccasin Bootie Slippers – Classic Ugg Style – Knitting Pattern.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these share links below 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too.

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

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Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)

🌺  Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.

Row 3 – 4: K across. 🌺

Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)

Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.

Break yarn when completed row 2.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 2628) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 2628) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

🍎 Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. 🍎

Repeat from 🍎 to 🍎 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap. 

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 2628) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 22 (24, 2628) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 2628) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.

With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. 

With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 2628) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Needle arrangement for textured bootie slippers
How the needle arrangement should look.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif. 
I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern.
The horizontal ridges look the same for you.

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

💋 Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across 💋

Repeat from 💋 to 💋 down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same 
for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continue to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.

Making the Heel

🍄 Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)

Ridges on the side of adult bootie slipper
The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges 
when making the larger sizes.
The above photo shows 9 rows of ridges.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches). 

Picking up the stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across 🍄

Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.

🌻 Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. 🌻

Repeat from 🌻 to 🌻 until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!! 

Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side. 

Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

More of my stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.

If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.

sewing the seam to make a cuff

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.

Help Support My Work!

Follow me on InstagramTwitterFacebookPinterest and YouTube. Every follow, subscribe, thumbs up, like, heart and share help increase my popularity on the web and get more viewers to my work. It costs you nothing but helps me sooooo much! 

For more printable patterns like this one, support me on Patreon! I’m adding new patterns regularly. As of this printing there are 8 additonal patterns to download for only $4 per month. You can read more about that at www.Patreon.com/JanisFrank

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Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern – FREE Knitting Pattern

Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern - FREE Knitting Pattern

If you have ever made one of my dishcloths in the past, it really bothers me when one side of a dishcloth doesn’t look the same way on the reverse side. To me, a dishcloth should be reversible. I know, it’s weird and really isn’t that important, but we all have these random, arbitrary rules we like to follow. Well, this one hits that same-both-side requirement! Yay! My mildly OCD brain is happy.

There’s not a whole lot to say about this one. If you make it 50 stitches wide, you’ll end up making a dishcloth that is approximately 9 inches (23 cm) square. Here are links if you’re interested in making any of my other dishcloths. I have a number of them now… Diamonds Dishcloth, Cute AF Bows Dishcloth, Bars and Stripes Dishcloth, Knit a Simple Dishcloth, and Knitting for Beginners Dishcloth.


As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here – Textured Knitted Dishcloth Pattern. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCraftsEtsy and Ravelry. If the link isn’t working I haven’t upload the pattern to the site yet.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…

Support my work on patreon
Click this 👆🏼👆🏼

Gauge

Gauge doesn’t really matter for this. It’s a dishcloth. The smaller the needle the tighter the knit. If it’s a bit looser of a knit, it’ll still work.

Things You Need:

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Worsted weight yarn – I always use cotton yarn for dishcloths. You can use something else if you are going to make a scarf with this pattern.

Tapestry needle – to work in the ends.

Patterns, Jewelry and More for Sale in My Shop

Making the Dishcloth

Cast on 5

Row 1: K across

Row 2: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across.

Row 3: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 P1 K3

Row 4: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 P1 K1 P1 K2

Row 5 – 6: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across.

🌼 Row 7: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.

Row 8: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 3 stitches P1 K2.

Row 9 – 10: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across. 🌼 Repeat from 🌼 to 🌼 until you have 50 stitches total.

Next row: K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.

Next row: K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.

Next 2 rows: K across.

💙 Next row: K2tog *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.

Next row: K2tog *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 3 stitches P1 K2. 

Next 2 rows: K across. 💙 Repeat from 💙 to 💙 until down to 8 stitches. You will have finished the first knit across row when there are 8 stitches on your needle.

Next row: K2tog. K the next stitch. Pass the K2tog loop on your working needle over the stitch you just knitted (AKA Cast off). Continue to cast off until there are 2 stitches on your non-working needle. K2tog these 2 stitches. You now have 2 stitches on your working needle. Pass the stitch over the the K2tog loop (the loop on the right over the loop on the left, if you are right handed). 

Work in the ends.

More of my stuff on Etsy:


You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Hints and Tips

This pattern can easily be made into a scarf of any width with pointed ends you could attach tassels to. If you want to make this super long, repeat the rows in the middle (the rows not designated with the repeat symbols or where you are not increasing or decreasing). It’s always 4 rows for one repeat of the pattern.

Make this as wide or as narrow as you like. If you feel 50 stitches are too wide, or not wide enough, do what you wish. Just always end on the second row of the knitting across rows to maintain the pattern texture.

If you want a more finished edge, you can easily do a single crochet around the edge of the dishcloth. The lighter beige dishcloth has the single crocheted edge if you’d like to see an example. I found that 2 stitches at each of the corners maintained a spaced out edging that lays flat.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

Increase in the first stitch – knit in the front and back of the stitch.

K2tog – knit 2 together

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.

Help Support My Work!

Follow me on TikTokInstagramTwitterFacebookPinterest and YouTube. Every follow, subscribe, thumbs up, like, heart and share help increase my popularity on the web and get more viewers to my work. It costs you nothing but helps me sooooo much! 

If you would like to help a little more, you can always support me on Patreon or you can make a single time donation at Buy Me a Coffee.

And just to see how many people read the entirety of a blog post…

For even more FREE knitting and crochet patterns, be sure to check out my newest website – KweenBee.ca I add new patterns regularly.

If you are a fibre artist and have a pattern you would like to share, I’d love to show case your work! Paid or free, on your own website, in your Etsy shop, on Ravelry or anywhere else, you can add your pattern. Go to – KweenBee.ca The service is free for anyone to u