All my free knitting patterns in one convenient location. You can use any of these patterns as you see fit, including selling finished items. Please do NOT claim these patterns as your own. Links back to the original pattern on my website is always encouraged.
I designed these knitted adult bootie slippers to be as easy to knit as possible. They are knit flat with no extra needles or special techniques required. If you know how to cast on, purl, knit and cast off you will be more than capable of finishing these for yourself or someone else! If you’re not sure or need a little practice, clicking on any of the links below will show you how with a how-to knitting video demonstrating the technique ? And if you’re looking for an ad free pattern you can download to your computer, tablet or phone you can get that here – How to Knit Ribbed Adult Booties or my Etsy shop or Ravelry for a small fee.
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The pattern is written to fit feet from a ladies size 6 – 12 and a man’s 5 – 12. I’m still on the fence as whether to design these to fit children. The sizing involves a lot of math and knitting sample sizes and I’m really not too excited about taking on either of those tasks. Let me know if you want it for kids. If there’s enough of you out there, I’ll do it.
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Things You Need
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Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch for ladies’ size 6-7 and 12 or men’s size 5-6 and 11-12.
Break yarn and pull through.
Make another slipper to match.
Sew seams and work in ends.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
Hints and Tips
When starting the slipper, leave a long length of yarn when casting on. You can use this length to sew up the back seam of the slipper and will give less ends to sew in when done.
Work in the ends and don’t just knot them off. The knots will rub on the wearer’s foot and make them decidedly uncomfortable.
When sewing the seams, be sure to yank on them a bit before working in the ends. You want as much yarn securing the seams so that the seam will stretch the length of the foot and the ankle.
When casting off for the ankle, be sure to do so loosely. It will allow the seam to stretch.
In case you’re not sure what part of the slipper you are making and how it goes together, I’ve added some pictures that will help.
How it goes together. Fold it in half and sew the seams for the toe and ankle.
There has been a bit of confusion on how to sew the seams along the back of the slippers, so I knit another pair and took a few photos to show what the back of the slipper should look like.
Below are two photos showing how to flip up the heel flap triangle and fit it into the back of the slipper. Sew the back seam down to where the top of the heel flap triangle reaches without stretching it. Sew each side of the triangle to the remaining rows along each side as shown.
This is a great knitting pattern for beginners because it only uses basic stitches that are very easy master. I’ve included links in the pattern to videos on YouTube that show you how to preform each stitch, making this a great pattern to teach yourself how to knit.
This is also a great project for experienced knitters because these slippers are very quick and easy to make. The pattern enables you to make a variety of sizes, from a woman’s size 6 up to a man’s size 14.
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If you’d rather have the ad free downloadable version of this pattern for a small fee, you can find it here – Easy to Knit Slippers or in my Etsy shop.
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200 grams of worsted weight yarn (I find Red Heart wears well and easy to maintain).
Darning needle to sew up the seams and work in the ends.
Gauge:
12 rows stockinette = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!
Slippers are given for a woman’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13, 14-15) or man’s sizes 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14). The foot lengths of a woman’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a man’s size 5-6 and so on.
Row 1: *K2P2* Repeat from * to* 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2 P12 Repeat from * to* 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times K2.
Row 2: *P2 K2* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. P2 K12 Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times P2.
Row 3: Repeat row 1.
Row 4: Knit across.
Repeat rows 1 through 4 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more.
Shape toe:
Next row: Repeat row 1.
Next row: Repeat row 2.
Next row: *K2tog P2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2tog. (P2tog) Repeat 5 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K2tog. [20 (24, 24, 24, 24) sts remain.]
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K1 *K2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. (P2tog) Repeat 2 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K1. [11 (13, 13, 13, 13) sts remain.]
Cut the yarn leaving approximately 12” to sew up toe seam. Draw yarn through stitches and pull tight to form toe. Bring edges together and sew half of the stitches together to form toe taking care to match the stitches together to form an invisible seam. Make another slipper to match.
To Make Heel Flap:
***For woman’s size 6-7 and man’s size 5-6 ONLY!***
With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 12 stitches along the sole edge.
Make a heal flap for the other slipper. Sew up the seams of heal flap and work in all the yarn ends.
Extra Tips
The pattern is written as simply as possible, but here are a few extra tips that may help you.
Knit what is between the * * once. Then knit whatever is between the * * again however many times more the pattern instructs you to.
When the pattern say repeat between * * however many times, knit the portion as many times as it instructs. Simply put, the slippers always have an equal number of knitted “ridges” and purled “valleys” on each side of the sole. There are 4 “ridges” and 3 “valleys” on the smallest size and 5 “ridges” and 4 “valleys” on all the other sizes.
When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. You can use darker or variegated yarn but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.
Happy knitting!
If you have any questions or comments you can reach me through my contact page.
This pattern enables you to sell or give away anything you may make with it. It does NOT allow you to redistribute, sell, give away or copy the pattern in any way without WRITTEN permission.
Hand knit slippers are wonderful, but it’s always nice to be able to make a fancier pair, especially if you are making them as a gift. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for girls from size 9 up to a woman’s size 12. You can keep scrolling or click here to read the child pattern.
The stitches used to make the slippers are very basic and this pattern includes detailed instructions and step by step photos that show how to create the bows. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.
If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting on, knit stitch, purl, bind off, knit 2 together, draw through, and how to pick up stitches to make the heel.
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Somehow found yourself on this page and absolutely LOVE these but don’t know or have the time to knit yourself a pair. I sell them right here too! Here’s the link to this shameless plug – Custom Order Bow Slippers
Things you will need:
Having a hard time knowing what you need? Click any of the links below to have everything sent right to your door.
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).
Row 3: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).
Purl the next stitch*
K24 Repeat from * to * K5.
(Row 3 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch* K24 Repeat from * to * K5.
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: Repeat row 3.
Row 8: Repeat row 2. The bow portion will look like this.
Row 9: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.
Knit the next stitch.
Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).
K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.
(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.
The bow portion will look like this.
Row 10: Repeat row 2.
Repeat rows 3 to 10 3(3, 4, 4) more times.
Next row:K2tog K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to *K3 K2tog. (42 sts)
Next row: K5 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K5.
Next row: K2tog K2 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K2 K2tog. (40 sts)
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. (40 sts)
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
♥︎ Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3.
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3.
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3.
Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.
Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.
Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams, work in the ends and enjoy!
Child Slippers size 9 – 3
Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 9-10 (11-12, 13-1, 2-3)
Cast on 34
Row 1: K3 P1 K3 P1 K18 P1 K3 P1 K3
Row 2: K4 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K4
Row 3: K3 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K3
Row 4: Repeat row 2.
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Row 6: Repeat row 2.
Row 7: Repeat row 3.
Row 8: Repeat row 2.
Row 9: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K3.
Row 10: Repeat row 2.
Repeat rows 3 to 10 1(1, 2, 2) more times.
Next row: K2tog K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to *K1 K2tog. (32 sts)
Next row: K3 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K3.
Next row: K2tog *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K2tog. (30 sts)
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
? Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.
Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.
Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2. ?
Repeat from ? to ? 0 (0, 1, 1) times more.
Form Toe:
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K9 P1 K10 P1 K9.
Repeat these two rows 0 (3, 0, 2) times more.
Next row: K2tog K26 K2tog. (28 sts)
Next row: K8 P1 K10 P1 K8.
Next row: K2tog K24 K2tog. (26 sts)
Next row: K7 P1 K10 P1 K7.
Next row: K2tog across. (13 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K2tog 3 times K1 K2tog 3 times (7 sts).
Next row: Knit across.
Break yarn and draw yarn through stitches to gather together to finish the toe.
Form Heel:
With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.
Row 1 – 2 : Knit across.
Row 3: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)
Row 4 – 5: Knit across.
Row 6: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)
Row 7 – 8: Knit across.
Row 9: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)
Row 10 – 11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)
Row 13 – 14: Knit across.
Row 15: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)
Row 16: Knit across.
Bind off.
Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams and work in ends.
Hints and tips:
When creating the strands, pull apart the 3 stitches passed over to the other needle. This allows for some additional slack in the strand across the 3 unworked stitches.
Sometimes the bows will appear lopsided. If you put your knitting needle under the 3 strands and pull gently on one side and then the other, you can easily even them out.
This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurments such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.
Abbreviations:
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
sts – stitches
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.
What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.
This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.
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Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
To Begin
Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)
? Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.
Row 3 – 4: K across. ?
Repeat from ? to ? 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)
Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.
Break yarn when completed row 2.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With RIGHTside facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches(the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
? Next 2 Rows: Knit across.
Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. ?
Repeat from ? to ? 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.
With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap.
With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38)stitches on this needle.
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
How the needle arrangement should look.
Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.
Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif. I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern. The horizontal ridges look the same for you.
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONGside facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
? Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Next Row: Knit across ?
Repeat from ? to ? down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continue to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
♥︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)
The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges when making the larger sizes.
The above photo shows 9 rows of ridges.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).
Picking up the stitch on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across ♥︎
Repeat from ♥︎ to♥︎ 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.
Making the Heel
I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.
♦︎ Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. ♦︎
Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!!
Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.
Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.
Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.
If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
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There is a certain charm to handmade slippers. Whether they be knitted or crocheted, it is always nice to be able to give someone a handmade gift, even if that gift is for yourself! Made with basic crochet stitches, you can make these very cute and practical slippers for just about anyone. With this pattern you can make slippers from a child’s size 11 to 4, a women’s size 5 to12 and a men’s size 6 to 11). This pattern includes instructions detailing how to make the adorable flower, though the more manly types may not appreciate the extra splash of colour.
If you would prefer to have a permanent copy of this pattern on your smartphone, tablet or computer, you can also download it directly from my website here: Crocheted Ribbed Slippers. A new window will open when you click the link so you won’t lose this page.
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The first set of brackets are are written for children’s sizes (11-12, 1-2, 3-4). The second set of brackets are women’s sizes (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12) and men’s (*-*, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11). Men’s size 6-7 are the same as a women’s 7-8. A men’s 8-9 the same as a woman’s size 9-10. A men’s 10-11 the same as a woman’s size 11-12. There is no men’s size 4-5 given.
Ch (22, 26, 30) (30, 32, 32, 36). Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. Ch 1, turn.
(21, 25, 29 sts) (29, 31, 31, 35 sts)
Row 2: Sc in back loops of next (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts. Hdc in next (9, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11) sts. Sc in back loops of next (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts. Ch 1, turn. (The sc in the back loops forms the ribbed pattern.)
Row 3: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (9, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11) hdc. (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (6.5, 7.5, 8.5) (8.5, 9, 9.5, 11) cm from the edge. (21, 25, 29 sts) (29, 31, 31, 35 sts)
Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, 3 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (23, 27, 31 sts) (31, 33, 33, 37 sts)
Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (11, 11, 11) (11, 13, 13, 13) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (9, 10, 11) (11, 12, 13, 14) cm from the edge.
Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4,4) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (3, 3, 3) (3, 5, 5, 5) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4,4) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25, 29, 33 sts) (33, 35, 35, 39 sts)
Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (6, 8, 10)(10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (11, 13, 14)(14, 15, 16, 17) cm from the edge.
Next row: Ch (6, 6, 6)(6, 8, 8, 8), turn. (You should have the ch 1 from your previous row already completed.) Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. (6, 8, 10)(10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (31, 35, 39 sts)(39, 43, 43, 47 sts)
Next row: Ch (7, 7, 7) (7, 9, 9, 9), turn. Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. 10 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (37, 41, 45 sts) (45, 51, 51, 55 sts)
Next row: (12, 14, 16) (16, 18, 18, 20) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (12, 14, 16) (16, 18, 18, 20) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (13.5, 15, 17) (17, 18, 19, 20.5) cm from edge.
Shape Toe:
Children’s Size (11-12)
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 13 hdc, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (29 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (23 sts)
Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (21 sts)
Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), 1 hdc, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (11 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (12 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Children’s Size (1-2)
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (31 sts)
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), sc in back loop, 11 hdc, sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)
Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (23 sts)
Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), sc in back loops, 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, sc in back loops *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (15 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (16 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Children’s Size (3-4) Women’s Size (5-6)
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), sc in back loops, 13 hdc, sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (35 sts)
Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)
Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), 2 sc in back loop, 11 hdc, 2 sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop in each st. (14 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Women’s Size (7-8, 9-10) Men’s Size (6-7, 8-9)
Next row: 18 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 11 hdc, 2 sctog, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (49 sts)
Next row: 18 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog* (repeat from * to * 5 times more) in back loops, 13 hdc, *2 sctog, sc* (repeat from * to * 5 times more) in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (37 sts)
Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (35 sts)
Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog* (repeat from * to * 3 times more) in back loops, 11 hdc, *2 sctog, sc* (repeat from * to * 3 times more) in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)
Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (14 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Women’s Size (11-12) Men’s Size (10-11)
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 5 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 5 times more). Ch 1, turn. (43 sts)
Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 11 hdc, 2 sctog, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (41 sts)
Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sc in back loop, 13 hdc, 2 sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (31 sts)
Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.
Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), 2 sctog twice, 3 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (17 sts)
Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (18 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.
Make the Heel
With the wrong side facing you and toe facing down.
Row 1: Sc in the each hdc of sole of slipper along starting edge (the loop left from the original chain stitches). Ch 1, turn. (9, 9, 9,)(9, 11, 11, 11 sts)
Row 10: Sc in back loops. Do NOT make ch st or turn! Sc in each row and stitch around the edge of the slipper.
Row 11: Sc in each st around. Finish off.
Flower:
Rnd 1: Ch 2 (second ch counts as 1 sc) work 9 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to ch 1. (10 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3. Sl st in the same sc as join. *Sl st in next 2 sc. In same st as the 2nd sl st, ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3. Sl st in the same sc.* Repeat from * to * around. End with st st in the next sc. (5 flower petals).
Pull up a Loop
Pull up a loop in each stitch as if you were going to make a single crochet. Don’t work the loop. Leave the loop on the hook.
Leave the loop on the hook. 12 sts will make 13 loops including the original ch 1.
Draw the yarn through all the loops.
Cut the yarn and pull the yarn through all the loops.
Draw tight.
Tips and Hints:
If your slipper is a little too big when you finish, one way to tighten it up a bit is to decrease some stitches when making the second round on the edging. Sc two stitches every 4 or 5 stitches will help.
To add a little more awesomeness to your slipper you can layer multiple flowers. Make each flower a different colour or you can change the size of your hook to make each flower smaller and stack them.
Work in your ends; don’t knot them off. Knots rub and can hurt the wearer’s foot.
Abbreviations:
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
trc – treble crochet
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
2 sctog – single crochet 2 stitches together
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.
Well, since the how-to video showing how to knit these gloves in the round went over like a lead balloon, I’ve put in the effort and redesigned the gloves so they can be knit flat on 2 needles. Perfect for a newbie knitter wanting to learn new techniques! In case you still want to learn how to knit in the round or want the seamless version, you can read the pattern here – How to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. The video is embedded on that page too, if you want to watch it.
If you are looking to knit a pair of plain gloves without the owls, the original version this pattern is available here – Super Simple Fingerless Gloves. It’s also knitted flat on 2 needles with a seam on the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb.
If you are so inclined and like to have matching sets of things, I have completed the matching hat or beanie! You could also call it a toque. Whatever floats your boat. It’s free to read on this website too. If you’d like to, click this link –How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern
Once again, I’ve made the gloves as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
I am finished creating the downloadable pdf for this pattern and it’s available in all my usual online selling venues including Ravelry, Etsy, and this website – Super Easy to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS! Click any of those links to avoid the ads and purchase it for a nominal fee.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
I’ve also created videos for you to see how the stitches are done, if any of them are giving you problems. I do have all the basic stitch videos here – Learn Basic Knitting Stitches, but links to the slightly more advanced stitches that show you how to M1, PM1, C4F and C4B are provided on this page. Clicking the links will take you to the video, but will leave this page window open in your browser. You can also scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the stitch abbreviations that also contain the embedded video you can watch right from this page.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Gauge
This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles.
2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts
2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows
in stockinette
Things You Need:
You can click any link below to see what you need.
Row 21: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K4 M1 K1 M1 K to the end of the row
Row 22: P20 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 23: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 24: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P4 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 25: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 26: P22 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 27: K5 P1 K8 P1 K4 M1 K5 M1 K to the end of the row
Row 28: P24 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 29: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row
Row 30: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 31: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 32: P26 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 33: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 M1 K9 M1 K to the end of the row
Row 34: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 35: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 36: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 37: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 38: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 39: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K to the end of the row
Row 40: P17 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 41: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row
Row 42: P17 K10 P to the end of the row
Row 43: Knit across
Row 44: Purl across
Row 45-50: Knit across
Cast off.
Making the Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Purl across
Cast off.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.
You can make these gloves with a ribbed cuff and around the fingers like the originalOwl Fingerless Gloves. You can easily do a K1 P1 ribbing to make that happen.
Abbreviation
K – knit
P – purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.
M1 or Make 1 – Increase between stitches when knitting.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would.
PM1 or Purl Make 1 – Increase between stitches when purling.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C4F or Cable 4 Forward
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
The season is getting colder again, the few apples on my trees are turning red and my mind turns back towards knitting. And oh boy, am I coming up with a bunch of knitting designs! Now here’s to finding the time to publish them all. Work is also back to full-time so that’s great news ?
A couple of things about this knitting pattern before we grab our favourite worsted weight yarn, double pointed and cable needles and get to work. Like my Owl Fingerless Gloves pattern, I am keeping the stitch count the same and only changing the needles size to change the size of the glove. The pattern on the back of the hand stays proportional in size and placement on the glove remains the same for a better overall look.
I made a number of different lengths of the glove too, for demonstrative purposes. The taupe with flecks (apparently it’s also known as tweed, who knew) is the pattern exactly as written. I repeated the cable pattern once for the grey pair and 4 times for the purple tweed/flecked. There’s a note in the pattern what rows make up the 5 plait cable pattern. Why do 3 cables when you can do 5? I’ve always been a bit of an overachiever ?
The downloadable PDF version is completed and uploaded it to all my distributors. You can find it on the following fine and upstanding websites – Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and this website.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
And here is the obligatory, shameless self promotion of this website so I have some reason to keep writing patterns. You can check out my Help Support My Work page to read more or you can click this link to Buy Me a Coffee. It’s a place where artists, podcasters and other creatives can go to get a quick, one time donation of support from fans. It’s pretty awesome and I’m always grateful for everything I get.
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Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I also have – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It is very plain Jane and it’s the yarn that makes this one pop.
Ok. Enough of that. Let’s get knitting!!!
Things you will need:
worsted weight yarn – I used Red Heart worsted weight (AKA size 4 or 8 ply) yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.
As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.
Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (35 sts)
Next Row: K17 P1 K15 P1 K1
Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog
Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around
Cast off loosely.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
If you have too many stitches double check to make sure you haven’t picked up a stitch between the needles. If you don’t have enough stitches, did you drop one when you were making the cable? Yes, I do make typos sometimes but I double check and recheck before I publish these patterns and it is more likely you’ve made a slight error while knitting. I’ve given stitch counts at the end of every row to help you along. Please let me know if I legitly did make a mistake. But with saying that, it isn’t always my fault. Some of you get kinda nasty about this and you really need to stop. Here’s the email so you can complain to my manager if that last bit offended you – [email protected]. FYI Karens – I am the manager and that email address doesn’t work.
I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.
I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.
You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the cable motif with one needle having 15 stitches. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the cable.
If you like your ribbing to be a little more snug, you can use a smaller size needles to knit this portion. Stepping it down a half size; small – 3.5 mm, medium – 4.5 mm and large 5.5 mm should work. You may want to go smaller. I don’t do this because I always forget to switch back.
I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section if it works. It’s been acting up since I switched hosting plans. Sorry.
Abbreviations:
C6F – Cable 6 forward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
C6B – Cable 6 backward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
K – Knit
P – Purl
Sts – stitches
P2tog – Purl 2 together
Well, that wraps up this knitting pattern. I hope you liked it, have a lot of fun with it, and maybe even make a bit of money from what you make. Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any gloves/mitts that you make from this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reproduce or republish this pattern in any form. Whether it be illegal screen shots of this page, a copy you print from this webpage, or multiple copies of the ONE pattern you paid for and subsequently give to your friends. Yes. All of those behaviours violate copyright laws. And every time you do that, it makes one less pair of eyeballs on my work that takes away from any ad revenue or other profits I may make from my hard efforts in designing and writing these patterns. I don’t work for free. I’m sure you don’t either.
Knit a fabulous pair of fingerless gloves or mitts with the cutest little bows flowing down the length of your arm and back of your hand. Create the bows as you go; I have pics to show you how. Make them as long or as short as you like. It really depends on how much you like knitting in the round on double pointed needles (DPN).
Don’t want to read this online and avoid the ads. You can download this pattern for 99¢ directly from this website here – How to Knit Fingerless Arm Warmers or Gloves – with Bows! I can now process credit and debit cards right here on the website. Not cool with that? You can also download the pattern through Ravelry, Etsy and other retailers.
Like the owl motif, I have a love affair going on with these bows. So far, I’ve incorporated it into slippers and a dishcloth, both of which are available to read right here on my website for free (that’s right, give those links a click). They are also downloadable in a number of online retailers such as Raverly, Etsy, Google Books and Amazon for a minimal cost. If you’re not a fan of intro blog blather or ads, you can also download this pattern at any of those fine retailers.
A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes and having the bows remain centered, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These mitts knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for theleft hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.
If you’re running into problems with this knitting pattern or have a question, scroll down to the Hints and Tipssection at the bottom of the post. I think I’ve pretty much answered everything. You can also click the link above to take you right there. If there are additional questions, they’ll pop up in the comments over time which are at the bottom of the page.
Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these links below ?????? and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too.
Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your printable PDF copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
worsted weight yarn (any standard ball will be more than enough to make the shorter, hand only version. You’ll need more if you are making them longer. For example, I used less than a 100 gr or 3.5 oz ball to make the long green gloves in size medium.)
Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends
A Note on Sizing
As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.
Like most things I knit, I use myself for standard sizing. To give you an idea of fit, I wear a medium sized latex glove. The medium size bow glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.
Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.
Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around
Rounds 8 – 9: K around
♥︎ Round 10: K8 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19.
Making the strand. Notice that the stitches passed over are spread apart and not bunched together.
Strand complete. Note the slack of the strand.
Round 11: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 12: As round 10
Round 13: As round 11
Round 14: As round 10
Round 15: As round 11
Round 16: As round 10
Round 17: As round 11
Round 18: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up
Four strands on the working needle
And knit the next stitch.
Four strands and about to knit the stitch
Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed).
Pull the yarn down beneath the strands as shown
All strands caught by the knit stitch
The bow once the other 3 stitches are knitted
K3 P1 K19
Round 18 written without photos: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 19: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19 ♥︎
Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ if you would like a longer length of glove. Each ? to ? repeat makes 1 bow motif.
Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 21: K to the P P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 22: K to the P P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 24: As round 22
Round 25: As round 21
Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 27: As round 21
Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 30: As round 22
Round 31: As round 21
Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 33: As round 21
Round 34: As round 22
Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 36: As round 22
Round 37: As round 21
Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K6 P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 39: As round 21
Rounds 40 – 41: K around
Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in lat stitch.
Round 43 – 46: K1 P1 around.
Cast off loosely.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.
Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.
Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around
Rounds 8 – 9: K around
♥︎ Round 10: K22 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5.
Round 11: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 12: As round 10
Round 13: As round 11
Round 14: As round 10
Round 15: As round 11
Round 16: As round 10
Round 17: As round 11
Round 18: K22 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 19: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5 ♥︎
Repeat from ? to ? if you would like a longer length of glove. Each ♥︎ to ♥︎ repeat makes 1 bow motif.
Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 21: K to the P. P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 22: K to the P. P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 24: As round 22
Round 25: As round 21
Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 27: As round 21
Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 30: As round 22
Round 31: As round 21
Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 33: As round 21
Round 34: As round 22
Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 36: As round 22
Round 37: As round 21
Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K to the P. P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 39: As round 21
Rounds 40 – 41: K around
Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in last stitch.
Round 43 – 46: K1 P1 around.
Cast off loosely.
Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.
You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.
Spread the 7 passed stitches apart to allow for some slack in the strand. If you don’t the bows will pucker. I usually spread them as far apart as they will go and stay in a relaxed position.
A quick note on making them longer into arm warmers. The green arm warmers repeat the bow section 4 more times than what is written. As it is written you get the short gloves with 3 bow motifs. The final length is about 25 cm or 9.5 inches long. Depending on the circumference of the arm you may need to add and cast on more stitches. This is where having the bows staying centred gets difficult. I can’t really help you with that. It’s a bunch of additional math, frustration and trial and error I really don’t want to get into. Sorry.
Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.
I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.
You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between 2 knit stitches before the purl at the start of the bow motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the bow and lessens the chances of dropping or adding a stitch when switching between working needles.
When you are done making the bows, they may pull a bit weirdly on one side. Simply put your needle beneath the 4 strands and give a bit of a tug up away from the mitt on both sides. That is enough to straighten and even them out.
If you’ve gained a stitch, check to see that you haven’t picked up a stitch between your needles. This is very easy to do and I even do it on occasion. When switching between needles the yarn will catch on the needle, not falling in behind again like it should. If you’re a little distracted, you’ll knit this new “stitch”, gaining an extra stitch on the next round.
I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn (DK or 3 perhaps) can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.
Abbreviations:
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
K – Knit
P – Purl
Sts – stitches
K2tog – Knit 2 together
I’m going to repeat this statement just in case you missed it earlier…
Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost of 99¢. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.
I’m not sure if this happens to anyone else, but I found some fantastic yarn on clearance that I absolutely had to have. Of course, I had no idea what to do with it. Then I got on my fingerless glove kick. I have written other patterns in the past such as my Owl Fingerless Gloves, Flip Mitts, and Texting Mitts, but they were all made with standard worsted weight yarn. The yarn I couldn’t leave behind was light weight; 3 as by North American terminology. So, a redesign of my gloves was in order! I absolutely love that these are a lighter, more delicate version of my previous patterns. AND I can use colour changing yarn and it works! If this is your first time using one of my patterns, I kinda got a thing for shaded yarns…just sayin’.
And if you were looking to buy a pair of these beauties but accidentally wound up here, click this link Hand Knit Fingerless Gloves and you can purchase a finished pair from my website. Or if you prefer to order through Etsy, you can get them there too – Fingerless Gloves by KweenBee on Etsy.
Like my other fingerless mitts, these are knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. This is definitely not a beginner’s knitting project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.
Plain Cuff Fingerless Gloves
If you are looking to make a pair of longer fingerless mitts, I can help you with that too! The striped fingerless glove pattern is basically the same as this one, but I’ve worked out the decreases to make them go all the way up to the elbow. You can click this link (or the photos) to read the pattern online.
And they don’t need to be striped. For the pair in the photo I used self-striping yarn so no ends to work in. But you can also make a more plain style like the green ones.
The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand. Think a younger teenager. A mediumis an average lady’s hand. I’m a medium when it comes to rubber gloves and I designed the medium mitt to fit my hand. Large is for a larger size hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each.
Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media. You can use the links above to easily do so.
The PDF is also available for your viewing pleasure. If you are tired of the ad supported version, you can download the PDF for a small fee from my website – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves, Ravelry or Etsy. All are the same price no matter where you get it from.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
K2tog – knit 2 together
sts – stitches
st – stitch
Helpful Hints
You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.
Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.
Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/
If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.
Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be ?
I’ve decided to share one of my most favourite things to knit…slippers just like my mom used to make. I’ve given the pattern so anyone can create them for adults from a woman’s size 7-12 or a man’s 6-11. This is one my most popular patterns ( this honour has recently been captured by my Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves ?). This slipper pattern has been dowloaded and viewed thousands of times through various online channels.
Adult slippers – Free knitting pattern
Free slipper pattern
How to knit adult slippers – free knitting pattern
How to knit adult slippers – free knitting pattern
Free slipper pattern
If you’re not a fan of being online, you can also download the ad free PDF version of the pattern directly from the download section of this website for a small fee – How to Knit Adult Slippers. If that is too much of a hassle, you can also find it in my Etsy shop or Ravelry for the same small fee.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
As my latest addition, I’ve also converted this pattern to children’s sizes. You can use this link to see my FREE children’s knitted slippers pattern. Both of these patterns are great to practice if you are a new knitter. Make sure you maintain the correct gauge! The sizing for the slippers is based on it. If you match your gauge to mine then the sizing should work out correctly.
I’ve also added all of the the videos for the necessary knitting stitches you’ll need to make these slippers.You can watch them right on this site by clicking this link – Basic Knitting Stitches. I’ve also embedded the complete step-by-step video showing how to make these. Scroll down or click here to the end of the page to watch it right here. FYI – all the links on this page open in a new page so you won’t lose this one.
I’ve also added links to the specific stitches that you need within the pattern itself. For example, if you forget how to gather stitches to form the toe, there’s a link right there to go to the video.
If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons above let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Don’t think you can make these yourself? Or maybe you would like some examples. Either way you can check them out in my online shop.
Things you will need:
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (this is an estimate. One large ball from any retailer will do.)
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!
Slippers are given for a woman’s size 7-8 (9-10, 11-12) or a man’s sizes 6-7 (8-9, 10-11). The foot lengths of a man’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a woman’s size 7-8 and so on.
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 36 (42, 48) more times TOTAL.
Shape toe:
Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K14 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 5 more times. P1 {This is K1 P1 Ribbing.}
Next Row: With wrong side facing you *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K12 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.
Repeat these 2 rows for 22 (26, 30) more rows. 24 (28, 32) rows ribbed TOTAL.
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 12 times. K1. K2tog 7 times P1. 21 stitches remaining.
Next Row: P8 K6 P7
Next Row: K2tog 10 times. K1. 11 stitches.
Next Row: P5 K3 P3.
Last Row: Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
With right side of work facing you pick up 14 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper. A lot of people have messaged me over the years not knowing how to do this. I made a video! It’s actually for another pattern but is exactly the same as this. Here’s the link to the video – Picking up Stitches for the Heel
Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form, physical or digital, unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. If you would like to link back, that always awesome and feel free to do so. Happy knitting!!
Also known as fingerless mittens, I seem to have a thing going on for this awesome owl motif. If you haven’t seen them already, I also have a Knitted Owl Slipper pattern that you may like. But more about these awesome fingerless gloves… They are fairly quick to make if you’re somewhat of an experienced knitter. If you don’t know how to knit in the round on double pointed needles (dpn), you’re in luck! I rewrote the pattern so anyone who loves the knitted owl motif, but not comfortable knitting in the round can still make an awesome pair of owl fingerless gloves. The pattern is free to read online, too! Click this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to see how to knit these flat on 2 needles instead of in the round on 4.
If you are so inclined and like to have matching sets of things, I have completed the matching hat or beanie! You could also call it a toque. Whatever floats your boat. It’s free to read on this website too. If you’d like to, click this link –How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern
If you’re willing to learn how to knit on 4 needles, I’ve made a step-by-step video showing you every single round. You can watch it here if you need any help along the way – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with Owls! If you scroll down the page, I’ve also embedded the video so you won’t have to leave this page.
Regardless if knitted flat or in the round, this is also a great pattern if you have a bit of left over yarn from other knitting projects. Like enough to knit one slipper, but you’re not sure if you’ll have enough to finish the whole pair. I know. We’ve all been there.
Did you wind up here looking for the finished product and not a pattern? No worries! You can buy your very own pair either from this website here – Hand Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves or in my Etsy shop.
And due to the number of folks contacting me via email and through the comments below, I am now offering a download of this pattern! I can’t give it away for free though; there is a minimal cost. You can download it directly from this site here – Owl Fingerless Gloves, or at other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrafts.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes, and to keep the proportion of the knitted owls the same, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These are knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for theleft hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.
Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these links below and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too.
Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or are more plain Jane and can cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. I forgot I even had those… huh! And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I just finished another fingerless mitten pattern. It’s cleverly titled – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It also is very plain Jane and is owl free!
Things you will need:
worsted weight yarn (less than 50 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves. I know because I weighed them ?). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.
As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. the Grey mittens are a medium. The beige is a small if you like your gloves a bit on the snug side. I didn’t even bother trying to model the red. They were too big. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.
If you are having problems with a particular row, once you push play, you can scroll through the video to find the card with the row number written on it. If you watch the video on YouTube here – How to Knit Fingerless Owls Gloves or Mitts, there are time stamps for each row in the description.
Me on YouTube knitting’ it up!
Left Hand
Cast on 36 sts loosely (you need to allow the ribbing to stretch)
Round 1 – 10: K1 P1
Round 11 – 13: K around
Round 14: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18 (knitted stitches between the M1’s are the thumb increase)
Round 35: K2tog. *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * around ending with P1.
Round 36 – 39: K1 P1 around.
Cast off loosely. It needs to stretch.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.
Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.
I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.
You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the owl motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the owl.
I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.
Abbreviations:
C4F – Cable 4 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C4B – Cable 4 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
Awesome cozy knitted slippers for women and men with a delightful cabled owl motif. The inspiration came to me while scrolling through the wonders of the internet and stumbling on other knitted slippers that were made in one piece on circular needles but back and forth. I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out, the pattern wasn’t in English, so I decided to design my own!
I came up with a very basic knitted slipper design, but then was inspired to make the top of the toe something special. I loved the look of a knitted cable owls on hats, mitts and scarves and next thing you know, this pattern was born! But also realize not everyone wants owls. That’s why I’ve written another pattern with no owls. You can see that pattern here – Free Knitted Slipper Pattern
Like most of my knitting patterns, this one is available for download, ad free, for a very small fee here – Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern or from my Etsy Shop. If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons ?? to do so easily.
Please be warned, this is not a pattern for beginners. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.
Things You Need
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern.
2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.
Stitch holder
Cable needle
4 – 4 mm beads for eyes. You can use larger ones or very small buttons, too.
Needle and thread to sew on eyes
Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
Row 7: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
Row 32: Purl across. Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Row 33: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 15 (17, 20, 22)stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 15 (17, 20,22) stitches. Pick up 13 stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (28, 30, 33, 35) stitches on this needle)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the other needle unworked for now. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 13 stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the next needle. (28, 30, 33, 35 stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 14 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 9 (11, 13, 15, 17) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 6 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
(The photo above is taken from the wrong side. It’s hard to see it from the right side)
(This photo is taken from the right side.)
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
(Left edge)
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
*Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).Click herefor some help on picking up the correct cast off stitches.
(Right edge)
Next Row: Knit across*
Repeat from * to * down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
More of my stuff on Etsy
Making the Heel
I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, count down 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches)
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges on the right edge for women’s size 8-9 or men’s size 7-8.
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges on the left edge for women’s size 8-9 or men’s size 7-8.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 7 (8, 9, 10,11) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (10 stitches)
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (8 stitches)
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (6 stitches)
Next row: Knit across.
❤︎ Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the edge in the space beneath the next ridge. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch along the edge beneath the next ridge.
Next Row: Knit across. ❤︎
Repeat from ❤︎ to ❤︎ until there are no more ridges.
Last Row: Pick up a stitch along the top. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch along the top.
Cast off.
Hints and Tips
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to make. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every other row.
An odd row is always the right side of your work; an even row is the wrong side
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
C4F (cable 4 forward) – With the cable needle, transfer the next 2 stitches to your cable needle. Bring these stitches to the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C4B (cable 4 back) – With the cable needle, transfer the next 2 stitches to your cable needle. Bring these stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the needle. Knit the stitches from the cable needle.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.
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Aren’t these the cutesiest things! This is one of my first patterns I ever wrote and I still make these for anyone who wants a pair.
A few basics before we start…to make these you need to know how to knit on double pointed needles and knit in the round. This is not a beginner project! It’s not tough to make these slippers, but you may need to practice a bit first. There is a FREE sock tutorial on my blog which is an excellent place to learn to make a basic pair of socks so you can master the technique.
To cast on, I cast all the stitches on one needle, then take the first 1/3 of the stitches and slip them onto a free needle, then take the last 1/3 of the stitches and put those on another needle, leaving the remaining 1/3 on the original needle. This method helps me to not twists my stitches. I then start to knit.
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Not wanting to read this behemoth online and would prefer to download the ad free version this knitting pattern for a small fee/donation? You can read it here – How to Knit Adult Sheep Slippers. You can also download the PDF from myEtsy Shop or from Ravelry.
Things You Need:
Clicking any links below to get everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.
Worsted weight yarn (I’m a fan of Red Heart only because of it’s price, it’s easy to find, wears and washes well).
Also, check your tension first! With worsted weight yarn, you’ll need a tension of:
10 stitches = 2 inches
14 rows = 2 inches
The abbreviations are standard:
K = Knit
P = Purl
K2 tog = Knit 2 stitches together
P2 tog = Purl 2 stitches together
FS = Fluff Stitch. This is the loop stitch and is described in detail here. There is also a complete how-to video at the end of this pattern. You can watch that here – Fluff or Loop Stitch Video
Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need.
So let’s go…
Cast on 36 stitches
Rounds 1-15: *K2 P2; repeat from * around
Round 16 – 20: Knit
Heel flap:
Slip last 9 stitches from round 17 to free needle, knit next 9 stitches from next needle onto needle with the 9 slipped stitches from round 17. You will have four needles and will look like this:
Transfer the three stitches on the two needles onto the back needle. Split these 18 stitches between two needles. It will look like this:
You will work these split 18 stitches later to form the top of the foot.
Turn your work. You are now creating the heel flap from the slipped stitches and will work in rows along the 18 stitches that are on the single needle.
With the wrong side (Purl side) facing you. Purl the row. Turn.
With the right side (Knit side) facing you. Knit the row. Turn.
Repeat stocking knit (Purl one row, Knit one row) until the flap measure approximately 2 1/2 inches ending with a Purl row. Turn.
With right side (Knit side) facing you K8 stitches, K2 tog, K8. Turn. (17 stitches on the needle)
Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form the gusset. Transfer the 18 held stitches to one needle. Knit the 18 held stitches. Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form gusset.
K4 stitches of heel. Slip remaining 5 stitches onto next needle. It will look like this:
Your needles will hold:
15 stitches side of foot
18 stitches top of foot
14 stitches side of foot
Next round: Knit. Knit another 15 sts until you are at the start of the 18 sts that make up the top of the foot.
Next round:Turn your work inside out!
With wrong side facing you (Purl side). P1, P2tog. P23 P2tog. P1.
Top of foot (over the 18 stitches): P1. FS16
To make the Fluff stitch (FS): *Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up
To make the Fluff stitch (FS): Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up & over) CLOCKWISE around the needle and the index finger of your LEFT hand TWICE. Leave these loops on your finger until you are finished knitting the entire stitch!
Wrap the yarn ONCE around the needle only.
Pull all 3 loops of yarn through stitch as knitting a regular stitch.
Insert the needle in your LEFT hand through these three loops and transfer these 3 loops onto the LEFT hand needle.
Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.
Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.
The stitch is now completed.
Pattern continued…. P1 in the last remaining stitch from the needle that was holding the 18 stitches that formed the top of the foot.
Next round: P18, FS16, P1. * Repeat from * to * until measures the length you want less 2 1/2 inches. To measure lay the sock flat and measure from the needle holding the side gusset stitches to the back of the heel.
Women’s
Men’s
Sizes (USA)
In Inches
Size (USA)
In Inches
5
8 11/16
7
9 11/16
5 ½
8 13/16
7½
9 13/16
6
9
8
10
6½
9 3/16
8½
10 3/16
7
9 5/16
9
10 5/16
7½
9 ½
8
9 11/16
8½
9 13/16
9
10
9½
10 3/16
10
10 5/16
Sizes larger than 10 5/16 inches need extra stitches cast on to go around the foot. Recommended for experienced knitters only!
Next round: P35
Next round: P17. Flip your work right side out! With Knit side facing.
Transfer stitches onto two needles. 7 stitches and 8 stitches on each needle.
Break yarn leaving enough to graft toe and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.
Graft toe:
With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.
Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.
Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.
? Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. ?
Repeat from ? to ? until there are no stitches left on either needle.
Pull the yarn tight.
Toe is now grafted.
Make another slipper to match!
Extra Knitting Tips:
Check your tension first! There’s nothing more disappointing than putting a bunch of effort into a project and then having it turn out to be the wrong size. The gauge of the rows is not so important for this project as you can make it to fit any size foot. The number of stitches per inch is VERY important! Make sure your gauge is correct.
Work in your ends instead of just knotting them off. Knots can make your foot sore when you step on them or if they rub on your toe.
This pattern can make any size slipper up to about a man’s size 9 or a woman’s size 10. If you want a bigger size make sure your increase the heel flap length and pick up more stitches when you make the gusset of the sock.
You don’t have to use googly eyes and pompoms for the face but I like to. I’ve also used buttons and they have also turned out well. I prefer to use Beacon Quick Grip glue to stick on the eyes and noses. It’s water proof and it works. I even tested it in my washing machine and dryer and everything remained in place. It didn’t discolour or become unglued.
If you would like to make the ears out of felt like I did, make a template from paper first and see if you like the size and how it fits. Cut a second template smaller than the main colour for the inside of the ear. I glued the pieces together and then sewed the ears to the second row in from face. Fiddle around with it to see where you like the placement best.
You can also make knitted ears with a bit of pink yarn, if you have it, or out of the yarn you knitted the slippers with originally. I made triangles and sewed them together. The inside pink was 2 stitches cast on less than the outside white portion. For example, Cast on 12 sts for the white and 10 sts for the pink.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.
So social distancing and forced unemployment seems to be going well for me…or at least incredibly productive as far as my pattern designing goes. Sigh! It certainly is a weird time. Anywho…
If you’ve done a little knitting before and are looking for something that’s a bit more challenging, why not give this knitted dishcloth pattern a whirl! It’s not overly complicated and looks awesome when you’re done. If you know knitting basics, you can easily get this done in an evening over the course of a couple of hours. If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting on, knit stitch, purl, and bind off.
I really like this bow motif. In case you haven’t run across my other use of these cute AF bows, check out my Easy to Knit Bows Slippers knitting pattern. The bows themselves are made as you go and guaranteed to never fall off. For convenience, I’ve included the same pictorial showing how you knit them. If you’ve already made enough bows to choke a small horse, I have the pattern written in full without all the photos – The Whole Damn Pattern Written Without the Photos.
If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons ?? to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!
Due to the popularity of other PDF’s I’ve been creating, I finally got around to making the downloadable version of this pattern. For a minimal cost , you can download the ad free version. You can get it directly from this website here – How to Knit a Cute AF Bows Dishcloth. If you would prefer to use another online retailer to download from, you can also find and download this pattern onLoveCrafts, Ravelry or Etsy.
Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
☺︎ Row 9: K5 ♠︎ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).
Purl the next stitch.
K5 ♠︎ Repeat from ♠︎ to ♠︎ 2 more times.
(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 ♠︎ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 ♠︎ Repeat from ♠︎ to ♠︎ 2 more times.
Row 10: K5 ♣︎ K1 P3 K1 P5 ♣︎ Repeat from ♣︎ to ♣︎ 1 more time. K1 P3 K6
Row 11: Repeat row 9.
Row 12: Repeat row 10.
Row 13: Repeat row 9.
Row 14: Repeat row 10. The bow portion will look like this.
Row 15: K5 ♦︎ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.
Knit the next stitch.
Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).
K1 P1 K5 ♦︎. Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ 2 more times.
(Row 15 rewritten without photos: K5 ♦︎ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 ♦︎ Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ 2 more times.
The bow portion will look like this.
Row 16: As row 10
Row 17: K across
Row 18: As row 8.
Row 19: K10 ⚽︎ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 ⚽︎ Repeat from ⚽︎ to ⚽︎ once. K5.
Row 20: K5 P5 ✦ K1 P3 K1 P5 ✦ Repeat from ✦ to ✦ 1 more time. K5.
Row 21: As row 19.
Row 22: As row 20.
Row 23: As row 19
Row 24: As row 20
Row 25: K10. ☆ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 ☆ Repeat from ☆ to ☆ 1 more time. K5
Row 26: Repeat row 20.
Row 27: Knit across.
Row 28: As row 8. ☺︎ Repeat ☺︎ to ☺︎ (row 9 to row 28 make the pattern.)
☺︎ Row 9: K5 ♠︎ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 ♠︎ Repeat from ♠︎ to ♠︎ 2 more times.
Row 10: K5 ♣︎ K1 P3 K1 P5 ♣︎ Repeat from ♣︎ to ♣︎ 1 more time. K1 P3 K6
Row 11: Repeat row 9.
Row 12: Repeat row 10.
Row 13: Repeat row 9.
Row 14: Repeat row 10. The bow portion will look like this.
Row 15: K5 ♥︎ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 ♥︎. Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ 2 more times.
Row 16: As row 10
Row 17: K across
Row 18: As row 8.
Row 19: K10 ♦︎ P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 ♦︎ Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ once. K5.
Row 20: K5 P5 ⚽︎ K1 P3 K1 P5 ⚽︎ Repeat from ⚽︎ to ⚽︎ 1 more time. K5.
Row 21: As row 19.
Row 22: As row 20.
Row 23: As row 19
Row 24: As row 20
Row 25: K10. ✦ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 ✦ Repeat from ✦ to ✦ 1 more time. K5
Row 26: Repeat row 20.
Row 27: Knit across.
Row 28: As row 8. ☺︎ Repeat ☺︎ to ☺︎ (row 9 to row 28 make the pattern.)
Like all of my patterns, the viewing of this patterns allows for you to give away or sell any of the physical items you make from this pattern. You are not allowed to claim this pattern as your own, give it away, sell it or redistribute it in ANY form without my WRITTEN consent. That includes Printing this webpage.
And to those who think it doesn’t matter… meh. It’s theft of my intellectual property (ip) and it makes you look like a douche. Just sayin’.
I only use hand knit dishcloths and have for years. I can’t express the superiority of these things! Regardless of the style, and I have designed a few, they last forever, have fabulous scrubbing power and double as a great heat protector when setting a hot pan on the counter or grabbing something out of the oven. They wash well and it’s nice to have something on hand that reminds you of how truly crafty you are ?
Not only are these great to have around, but this is another great project for anyone learning how to knit. This knitting pattern uses very basic stitches and I’ve made a complete how-to video showing every single step! Learn to cast on, knit, purl, cast off and work in the ends when you are finished. All you need to do is press the ▶️ button to start watching.
Learn how to knit and make a lovely dishcloth!
If you’re learning how to knit, this is a great project to learn on. Even if it doesn’t turn out perfectly, you still have a useable item. And if you do know how to knit already, it’s a great way to use up the left overs from your stash. And who couldn’t use an extra dishcloth or two anyways.
Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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This pattern is now available for download for a small fee/donations. You can download the ad free, printable version from a number of online retailers. You can download it from my website – Bars and Stripes Knitted Dishcloth, my Etsy shop, and Ravelry.
The repeat signs are different in this pattern than what is mentioned in the video. If you haven’t watched the video, then you can ignore the unicorn and teddy bear comments written below.
FYI – this image ♠︎ replaces in the video This image ♦︎ replaces in the video
I’ve made the pattern so it is a square as I could get it. If you feel it’s too long (or short) add or take away ♠︎ to ♠︎ repeats. It’s a washcloth, not rocket science. The final piece can be however you like it.
I know some people (Me. I’m some people) like things to have the same motif on both sides. This isn’t one of those things. The backside isn’t terrible, just different from the front. It’s either going to offend you to the core of your being or you won’t give a fµ€k. It’s your call.
If you hold the cast on end to the back of your work and catch the yarn every other stitch, you’ll have one less end to sew in. I’ve made a quick photo tutorial showing you how to do it. You can see it here – How to Work in Ends While Knitting. I hate sewing in ends and this is a great technique to learn.
If you have any questions or comments you can send me an email through my contact page. The comment section at the bottom of this pattern is also great to post your questions. I answer them ASAP.
This pattern grants you the pleasure and profit of selling or giving away anything that you make. It does NOT give you permission to publish, print or distribute it in any format. You are NOT permitted to claim this pattern as your own. Please respect mine, and other author’s rights. You’re a huge jerky jerk if you do this and I’m certain puppy dogs don’t like you because you’re such a horrible person. How can you live with yourself???
Because even pirates and rock stars need to do the dishes, I’ve created the coolest dishcloth known to man. That’s right! A crocheted dishcloth that’s reversible with a skull and crossbones on it. Now who DOESN’T want that in their kitchen! Crazy people, that’s who.
This dishcloth is very easy to make and a great project for beginners as it uses very basic crochet stitches that are easy to master. For the tougher points, like making the teeth (simply an elongated double crochet) and the edging, there are photos and a video to help you along. Or you can keep scrolling down the page to watch it here.
Get the PDF version of the pattern from my website. A PDF file will work on any device (iPad, tablet, smartphone, computer, etc.) however you will need Adobe Reader to open and view the file. This is a free program which can be downloaded here – http://get.adobe.com/reader/
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Things you need:
Size 4.25 crochet hook (Size doesn’t really matter but if you use a larger hook, the dishcloth will be larger, and with a smaller hook, it will be smaller)
Row 7: 11 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 7 dc in each dc (click that link or scroll down the page to see photos to help you along) st below, ch 1 skip next st, 12 dc. Ch 2, turn.
With right side facing, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc between every 2nd dc along the top and bottom edges and around each dc and ch 2 post along the sides. Not sure how to do a backwards single crochet? Watch my how-to video on YouTube here: Crochet Edging for Dishcloths.
Hints and tips:
Use any cotton yarn that you like. Cotton only! Acrylic doesn’t work well for dish washing, and wool will felt and look pretty disgusting after a while. Also, I’ve written the pattern to use less than one ball of the most common cotton yarns available in big box stores (one starts with a “W”). These make great gifts that are extremely affordable to make.
When skipping a stitch you may be making a dc in either a ch or a dc. St is used regardless to make the pattern easier to read.
Hold the starting yarn end behind the your work when making the edging. That way you only have the final end to sew in when done.
You can make the edging in a different colour for a bit of extra pizzazz. I don’t because I strongly dislike sewing in ends. An extra colour means extra work ?
Socks are one of those things that you can make as individual as you are. Made in the round on 4 double pointed needles, it may seem intimidating at first, but really it’s not. And with a little practise you’ll get just as hooked as me.
If you are just getting started one standard ball of yarn, like the kind you can get at Walmart, should be enough to make a pair of ankle socks as pictured above. Choose an acrylic yarn or a blended worsted weight. You can use wool, but cleaning them may be a hassle (shrinkage) and cotton yarn doesn’t stretch enough to make a comfortable pair of socks. It also gets up your nose when working with it. Just want full disclosure here ?
To cast on, I cast all the stitches on one needle, then take the first 1/3 of the stitches and slip them onto a free needle, then take the last 1/3 of the stitches and put those on another needle, leaving the remaining 1/3 on the original needle.This method helps me to not twists my stitches. I then start to knit in the round.
Included with this pattern are photos of every step showing how to graft the toe, or sewing the toe stitches together. Not only does this technique work for socks, but it is the same procedure for grafting the stitches for mittens. If sone correctly, it makes for a nearly perfect seam. Keep scrolling down the page to see the instructions and pics.
This pattern is available as a read online only. No download is available. Sorry. There are so many sock patterns already, I’m sure a quick search will find one you can download.
A quick tip about working with double pointed needles (DPN). I find that using wood or bamboo a bit better than working with the metal needles. Sometimes, when working with the metal needles, you’ll find that you get a line that runs the length of your sock where you start working on a new needle. For some reason, and for me, using bamboo prevents this.
Also, check your tension first! I use a size Size 7 needle (Size 4.5 if your Canadian) with worsted weight yarn and with the tension of:
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10 stitches = 2 inches
14 rows = 2 inches
Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need.
There needs to be some stretch to be able to get them on.
Rounds 1-15: K2 P2
Rounds 16-17: Knit
Heel flap:
Slip last 9 stitches from round 17 to free needle, knit next 9 stitches from next needle onto needle with the 9 slipped stitches from round 17. You will have four needles and will look like this:
Transfer the three stitches on the two needles onto the back needle. Split these 18 stitches between two needles. It will look like this:
You will work these split 18 stitches later to form the top of the foot.
Turn your work. You are now creating the heel flap from the slipped stitches and will work in rows along the 18 stitches that are on the single needle.
With the wrong side (Purl side) facing you. Purl the row. Turn.
With the right side (Knit side) facing you. Knit the row. Turn.
Repeat stocking knit (Purl one row, Knit one row) until the flap measure approximately 2 1/2 inches ending with a Purl row. Turn.
With right side (Knit side) facing you K8 stitches, K2 tog, K8. Turn. (17 stitches on the needle)
Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form the gusset. Transfer the 18 held stitches to one needle. Knit the 18 held stitches. Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form gusset.
K4 stitches of heel. Slip remaining 5 stitches onto next needle. It will look like this:
Your needles will hold:
15 stitches side of foot
18 stitches top of foot
14 stitches side of foot
Next 2 rounds: Knit.
Next round: K12, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K11.
Next 2 rounds: K45
Next round: K11, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K10.
Next 2 rounds: K43
Next round: K10, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K9.
Next 2 rounds: K41
Next round: K9, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K8.
Next 2 rounds: K39
Next round: K8, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K7.
Next 2 rounds: K37
Next round: K7, K2tog K1 K18 K1 K2tog K6.
Next round: K35
Repeat the last round (K35) until measures the length you want less 2 1/2 inches. To measure lay the sock flat and measure from the needle holding the side gusset stitches to the back of the heel.
Transfer stitches onto two needles. 7 stitches and 8 stitches on each needle.
Break yarn leaving enough to graft toe and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.
Graft toe:
With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.
Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown. Drop this stitch.
Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.
? Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. ?
Repeat from ? to ? until there are no stitches left on either needle.
Pull the yarn tight.
Toe is now grafted.
Make another sock to match!
Extra Sock Knitting Tips:
Check your tension first! There’s nothing more disappointing than putting a bunch of effort into a project and then having it turn out to be the wrong size. The gauge of the rows is not so important for this project as you can make it to fit any length of foot. The number of stitches per inch is VERY important! Make sure your gauge is correct.
Work in your ends instead of just knotting them off. Knots can make your foot sore when you step on them or if they rub on your toe.
This pattern can make any size sock up to about a man’s size 10 or a woman’s size 11.
This pattern will make ankle length socks. To make a longer sock like these purple ones at the beginning of this post, just knit more plain rows (rows 16-17) before you start to make the heel flap. If you want a sock that will fit further up the calf you will need to cast on more stitches and then decrease evenly to the number of stitches required to make the foot. This takes some tinkering and can be hard if you’re new to sock knitting.
A good point to remember if you are making a larger size sock has to do with decreasing stitches for the gusset. A good rule of thumb is to decrease to the amount of stitches to the amount you originally cast on. For example if you are making an ankle sock to fit a larger size foot, you can cast on 40 stitches, make the heel flap 1/2 inch longer, pick up 12 stitches along each side of the foot for the gusset and decrease stitches until you are down to 39 stitches around the foot.
And if you are making a larger sock, and this is from personal experience, write down how many stitches you cast on, how long you make the heel flap, and how many stitches you pick up along the edge. It can be difficult to recall the numbers if you have to leave the project for a while.
And for the sake of a little shameless self promotion…if you learn how to knit socks you can also knit these sheep slippers. You can read the pattern online here Learn to Knit Adult Sized Sheep Slippers. There are lots of photos and detailed descriptions on how to make them.
If you are enjoying the free patterns and picture tutorials, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and it helps me so much. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. If you would like to link back, that always awesome and feel free to do so. Happy knitting!
What every overly pretentious bottle of wine needs – a hipster sweater! Dress up that cheap bottle of $8 wine for your next hoity-toity dinner party. I’m nearly certain no one will notice you cheaped out and the sweater alone will wow them into a false sense ostentatiousness!
While this project looks complicated, in truth, cable stitches aren’t that difficult to master. It’s VERY repetitive as you can see by the instructions below. Once you see the pattern forming, you’ll know when to pull your stitches either to the front or the back of your work. That’s all you do with a cable needle. It’s a smaller needle that holds, then let’s you work the stitches in a different order to form braids, or in this instance, cable patterns. If you’re not sure how to cable, I provided a simple explanation how to do it and linked the abbreviations C2BC2F, TS, etc. to these descriptions. There are also a couple videos I added showing how to do the stitches. I’m assuming this isn’t your first knitting project and know knitting basics.
I made this a free pattern because it’s a simple project to learn how to cable knit if you’ve never done it before. It uses less than a standard ball of worsted weight yarn and buttons are optional. The cozy doesn’t have button holes and is simply sewn up to form a tube. You can add buttons if you wish. Being of the lazy ilk, I glued mine on ?.
Also, leave a long length of yarn when starting to cast on. Eighteen inches or so should suffice. You can use this extra yarn to sew up the cozy and save on sewing in ends. No matter how long I’ve been knitting and crocheting I still hate sewing in ends and will try to save everyone from this tedious task whenever possible.
Like the majority of the patterns I’ve written, this pattern is available as an instant download on my website. You can download the PDF version for free at this link: Hipster Wine Cozy or Koozie.
If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and help me more than words can say! If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Next row: K3. Pick up a stitch (increase made). K10. Pick up a stitch. K3.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K4. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K4.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K5. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K5.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K6. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K6.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K7. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K7.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K8. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K8.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K9. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K9.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K10. Pick up a stitch. K10. Pick up a stitch. K10.
Next row: Cast off.
TS – Twist Stitch
Transfer the next stitch onto a cable needle and hold the stitch to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle.
C2B – Cable 2 Back
Transfer the next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle. For photos showing how to do this, click this link. Scroll to the bottom of the page.
C2F – Cable 2 Forward
Transfer the next 2 stitches onto a cable needle and hold the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the two stitches from the cable needle. For photos showing how to do this, click this link. Scroll to the bottom of the page.
Sl St K1 PSSO – Slip Stitch Knit 1 Pass Slipped Stitch Over
Transfer the next stitch onto your other knitting needle. Knit the next stitch. Pass the held stitch over the stitch you just made. Kind of like lassoing the stitch you just made with the stitch you transferred over to the other needle.
Pick up a stitch
Pick up the strand of yarn between the two needles and place it on the needle you are knitting your stitches from (If you’re right handed it’s the needle in your left hand. If you’re left handed it the needle in your right hand). Knit this new stitch. You can see pics of how to do this here – Picking up Stitches.
The pattern itself is very easy to do and definitely one that a person new to crocheting could follow. I’ve also provided the pattern with two different edges. My personal preference is to end it with a backwards single crochet, but a single crochet in each stitch and row will also work.
If you are new to crocheting, I’ve included links to points in the video to help you with specific rows and stitches. If you’d like to watch the video from the beginning you can use this link: Crochet a Dishcloth or you can scroll down to watch the video from this page. If you’d like to download the ad free version of this crochet pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from my website: Crochet a Dishcloth.
To help you with some of the more tricky parts, all the rows (and a few of the stitches) are clickable links that will take you to the correct point in the video that demonstrates exactly how to do it. The links will take you off this site and on to YouTube. If you want to watch the video here, scroll to the bottom of the page to view it.
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Row 1: Sc in 4th ch from the hook. *Ch 1, skip a ch, sc in next ch.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the chain. Ch 2, turn. (20 sc) If you have too many chains see how to fix that here: How to Undo Chain Stitches.
Row 2: Sc in the ch 1 space. *Ch 1, sc in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Sc in the ch 4 space from the beginning chain. Ch 2, turn.
Row 3:Sc in the ch 1 space. *Ch 1, sc in next ch 1 space.* Repeat from * to * until the end of the row. Sc in the ch 2 space from the previous row. Ch 2, turn.
Repeat row 3 until the dishcloth is square or the desired length.
Edging:
Single Crochet (White dishcloth as shown above):
Row 1: Sc in each row along the left edge of the dishcloth. 3 sc in the corner st. 1 sc in each sc along bottom edge. 3 sc in corner st. Sc in each row along the right edge of the dishcloth. 3 sc in the corner st. 1 sc in each sc along top edge. Finish off.
Backwards Single Crochet (Purple dishcloth as shown above):
Row 1: Complete 1 bsc (backwards single crochet) in every 2nd stitch of the row you just made. 1 bsc in the corner st. 1 bsc in every 2nd row along the right edge of the dishcloth. 1 bsc in the corner st. 1 bsc in every 2nd st along the bottom edge of the dishcloth. 1 bsc in the corner st. 1 bsc in every 2nd row along the left edge. 1 bsc in the corner st. Finish off.
How to do a bsc (backwards single crochet):
Here’s the video that can show you how. Keep scrolling down the page to see the pictorial how-to.
Unlike regular crochet stitches and instead of working from right to left in regular crochet (if you’re right handed), you’re going to work from left to right.
Step 1: Insert the hook from front to back in the next st.
Step 2: Hook the yarn and draw the loop through the front of your work.
Step 3: Hook the yarn and draw through the two loops. Pretty simple, huh?
You can adjust the size as you see fit. I prefer a smaller dishcloth but you may like it larger. You can either add more chains at the start of the cloth or you can make more rows. Either way will work but remember to buy more yarn if you want it larger. You can also use a larger size hook to make the stitches looser.
And as promised, here is the complete step-by-step video for you to watch.
I’ve been asked by a number of people to knit them slippers that are a little more snug. A surprising number of people like to sleep with slippers on and have a difficult time finding ones the don’t keep coming off. Now, I can’t guarantee that these will stay on your feet all night but with the extended cuff, these knitted adult bootie slippers will stay on much better than any of the other knitted slippers that I make. This particular knitted slipper design fits feet that are a woman’s size 6 – 11 and a man’s size 5 – 10. I was going to make them for larger and smaller sizes, but there was no demand for it ?
Don’t forget to show your support and share this pattern with your friends and family on social media. These links make it super easy to do.??
This is also a great pattern to practice your knitting stitches. In particular, picking up stitches and working on double pointed needles, AKA working in the round. Double pointed needles seems very intimidating but really it’s the same as regular knitting needles; you just don’t flip your work back and forth. If you’ve never done it before, don’t worry! In the tutorial below I show every single step including how to pick up the stitches for the heel and cuff. Once you watch how it’s done you’ll wonder why you never did it before.
If you need a more detailed video that shows you each step from casting on to sewing in the ends, scroll to the bottom of the page. You can watch the video without leaving this page. You can also download the ad free version of this pattern for a small fee here – How to Knit Adult Booties, on Ravelry or from my Etsy Shop.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you are having a tough time finding what you need to make these slippers, click any link below to have all your supplies devoured right to your door.
250 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).
Break yarn and draw yarn through the stitches to form the toe.
Form Heel:
Need a bit of extra help with the heel and cuff? Scroll to the top of the page for a shorter video demonstrating where and how to do it.
With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts on one of your double pointed needles along the sole of the slipper. Work the stitches with another of your double pointed needles.
Row 1-4: Knit across.
Row 5: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)
Row 6-7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)
Row 9-10: Knit across.
Row 11: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)
Row 12-13: Knit across.
Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)
Row 15-16: Knit across.
Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)
Row 18-19: Knit across.
Row 20: K2tog twice. (2 sts)
Row 21-22: Knit across.
Keeping the two stitches on your double pointed needle, pick up 36(36, 36) stitches to form the cuff. Pick up 17 stitches down one side, evenly spaced, along the length to where you knitted two together. Starting at where you knitted two together along the other edge, pick up another 17 stitches, evenly spaced. There will be 36 stitches total.
Row 1-10: *K2 P2* Repeat from *to* 7 more times. 8 times total for matching ribbed effect.
Row 11-13: Knit around.
Cast off loosely.
Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams and work in ends.
If you like the free videos and patterns, then please share my work on social media! Those handy little icons along the top of the page and embedded in this and all my patterns let you do it easily. It’s quick and easy for you and helps me immensely! ? If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Because it seemed wrong to not have the children’s version of this knitting pattern, I did all the math and here it is! I’ve made the pattern fit children’s feet from a small size 5 up to a teen size 5. That means you can make a slipper to fit feet that measure 5 1/4″ to 9″ long. Anything larger than that can be made with my other free pattern entitled How to Knit a Pair of Adult Slippers. And just like that pattern, I’ve included links to all the knitting stitches you need to make the slippers. By clicking the links you’ll go to my YouTube channel and I will show you how to do the required stitch or technique. The ad free download for this pattern is available here for a very small fee from this website – How to Knit Children’s Slippers, Etsy and Ravelry.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Like the free videos and patterns? Then please share my work on social media! Those handy little icons above let you do it easily and help me so much. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work and keep the site free for everyone.
A couple of quick notes before you get started…be sure to use the correct size when ending the toe. The number of stitches knitted together differ depending on the size. Be sure to find the one that is for the size of slipper you are making. Scroll down the page to find the size you need. The same holds true for forming the heel flap. Be sure you pick up the right number of stitches or the heel flap won’t be the right length.
Without further ado, let’s get knitting! And in case you need a little extra help, there’s a complete step-by-step instructional video here:
Things you will need:
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
You can try this product to keep your slippers from sliding on slick floors.
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is a lot less but better to have too much. I like to use Red Heart because of price, wearability, ease of maintenance, and it’s easy to find online and IRL).
Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from *2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) more times K9 (K9, K10, K10, K11, K11, K14) *(P1 K1) Repeat from *2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) more times. P1 {This is K1 P1 Ribbing.}
Next Row: With wrong side facing you *(K1 P1) Repeat from *3(3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times K7 (K7, K8, K8, K9, K9, K12) *(P1 K1) Repeat from *3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) more times.
Repeat these 2 rows for 12 (12, 16, 16, 18, 18, 20) more rows. 14 (14, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22) rows ribbed TOTAL.
End toe for size 5-6 and 7-8
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 11 times. K1. (12 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P5 K3 P4
Next Row: K2tog 6 times. (6 stitches. remaining)
Next Row: P3 K1 P2
Last Row:Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
End toe for sizes 9-10, and 11-12
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. K1. K2tog 6 times. K1. (15 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P6 K4 P5
Next Row: K2tog 7 times K1. (8 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P4 K2 P2
Last Row:Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
End toe for size 13-1 and 2-3
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 16 times. K1. (17 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P7 K4 P6
Next Row: K2tog 8 times K1. (9 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P4 K2 P3
Last Row:Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches)and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
End toe for sizes 4-5
Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 9 times. K1. K2tog 8 times K1. (19 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P7 K6 P6
Next Row: K2tog 9 times K1. (10 stitches remaining)
Next Row: P4 K3 P3
Last Row:Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches)and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.
To form back flap of heel:
For sizes 5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12
With right side of work facing you pick up 10 sts between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper.
A great knitting pattern for beginners and experts alike! The stitches and techniques used to make these simple looking slippers are very basic. As long as you can cast on, knit, purl, and the like, you’ll be able to make these with no problems whatsoever. If you’re a more experienced knitter, you’ll be able to whip up a pair in no time!
This adult slipper pattern makes women’s sizes 6-13 and men’s sizes 7-12. That should cover the majority of feet out there.
If you would prefer to download this adult’s knitted slipper pattern and take it with you wherever you go, you can do that here – Knitted Adult Slippers – Plaid Pattern. There’s a very small, one time fee to download the ad free PDF version of this knitting pattern. Once downloaded, you can read it on any device be it your phone, tablet, laptop or computer.
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
in Stockinette
4” = 20 sts
4” = 30 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
Heel Flap
Cast on 2 sts
Row 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K2 in each st (You now have 4 sts).
Row 5-7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (6 sts)
Row 9-11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (8 sts)
Row13 -15: Knit across.
Row 16: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (10 sts)
Row 17-19: Knit across.
Row 20: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (12 sts)
Row 21-23: Knit across.
Row 24: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (14 sts)
Row 25-27: Knit across.
Row 28: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (16 sts)
Do not knit the following 4 rows for the other sizes!
Next row: Knit across.
☺ Next row: K13 P1 K14 P1 K13
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Repeat row marked with☺
Knit the following rows for ALL sizes.
Next row: K2tog Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (40 sts)
Next row: K12 P1 K14 P1 K12
Next row: K2tog Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (38 sts)
Next row: K11 P1 K14 P1 K11
Next row: K2tog across.
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K2tog across. K last st.
Next row: Knit across.
Draw yarn through loops.
Make another slipper to match. Sew the seams and work in the ends.
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Hints and Tips
I’ve written the pattern to divide the rows up into sections of the slipper. You’ll see where certain stitches line up to form a crease (between the cuff and side of the slipper) and definitive lines that demarcate the sole of the slipper. I debated whether to write it as a more traditional pattern with running all the same stitches together (ie. K7 instead of K4 K1 K2) but felt it would be easier for a less experienced knitter to see what stitches were forming the different parts of the pattern.
A good way to think of the pattern is in groups (hence the spacing). How I thought of it when designing these slippers was 4 rows formed bottom half of the plaid pattern. The other 4 rows form the top half of the plaid pattern. The 8 rows together formed one repeat. Not sure if that helped anyone but it made it very easy for me to figure out where to put in the repeat marks.
If your K2tog for the second to last row is off, no worries. If there’s 2 stitches, knit them together. It’s not a big deal and it won’t make a noticeable difference.
If you need a larger size slipper than what I’ve written for, you can add more knitting rows onto the end of the toe. If your gauge is correct, 4 rows of knitting will add approximately 1/2” or 1.75cm.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at here – contact me.
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