Stay warm this winter with this free knitted ear warmer headband pattern! It’s double-thick, soft, and designed to cover your ears and forehead for extra warmth. This is a great first knitting project for beginners to learn the basics, and a fast, satisfying knit for experienced knitters.
The pattern is free to read online and includes a complete how-to video tutorial, showing you every step from cast on to bind off to sewing the seam. This cozy winter headband makes a thoughtful handmade gift or a simple cold-weather project an experienced knitter can make in an evening.
For now, I’m going to make just this PDF version available to my supporters on Buy Me a Coffee. I set a ridiculous price for purchase for non-members. For current, or future members, you can use this link – Cozy Double Thick Ear Warmer Headbandand download and print it now.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy the free patterns, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!
Once you’ve mastered all the stitches, you can easily move on to some other projects. Both my Easiest Beanie Winter Hat and Super Simple Fingerless Gloves use the same stitches and both have complete how-to videos to show you how to make them. You can either click the links or the photo below to see the videos and patterns.
Tapestry needles – to sew the seam and work in ends
Gauge
In stockinette
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
I’ve included this handy chart showing how many stitches you need to cast on for every head size.
Watch the Video
Watch the full how-to video to make this pattern. All sections are divided by title cards to make it easy to find the help you need by scrolling through the video.
Pattern
Cast on according to chart
Row 1: Knit across for (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15) rows.
Next row: P across
Next row: K1 * P2 K1 * Repeat from * to * to end of the row.
♫ Next row: P1 ♥ K2 P1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ to the end of the row.
Next row: K1 * P2 K1 * Repeat from * to * to end of the row. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ (16, 16, 20, 20, 20, 24, 24, 24, 24, 24, 28) more times for a total of (19, 19, 23, 23, 23, 27, 27, 27, 27, 27, 31) rows for the ribbed section.
Next row: With the RIGHT side of the ribbing facing you. P across.
Next row: Knit across for (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 13, 13, 15) rows.
Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
When sewing the seams, please watch the video! You want the seam to be a slim as it can be. Anything bulky will rub on the head and be annoying after a while.
Make sure you STRETCH the seam along the length as you sew! This will be be the limit of the stretch of the final piece. If you sew the seam tight, there won’t be enough stretch to fit around the head.
The measurements for child ages are based on UN head size standards and are approximate common measurements for heads throughout the world. If you know the measurement of the head, use that instead of what I’ve given.
I’ve designed this pattern to fit nearly everyone. I didn’t go any younger because it’s my experience that babies rarely keep anything on their heads, let alone any headbands. They’re cute but completely impractical.
I have not done this, but if you want to make the head bands windproof, no knitting ever is, you can try putting felt, or another windproof material between the ribbing and garter stitch sections when you sew it up. You can either make it one long piece, taking into account the extra material to accommodate the stretch, or patches to go over the ear only. I’ve thought about whether to tack it in place for the ears, or just let it float around in there once you sandwich it together. I’m not sure which method would work better. Let me know if you try this.
Even if your headband doesn’t turn out perfectly and this is your first knitting project, don’t be discouraged! Keep going. You can still be proud of what you made and it still usable.
This knit beanie pattern is about as easy as it gets — no complicated charts or weird stitches here. You just need to know knit, purl, and a simple decrease, plus how to pick up stitches (but don’t stress, the pick-up joins are totally hidden even if you’re not perfect at it).
Best part? This hat fits anyone. Seriously. Whether you’re making one for yourself, your son or daughter, niece or nephew, husband or wife, the whole family or someone else entirely, everyone gets a great fit without the headache of resizing or guessing.
There’s no printable pattern because honestly, it’s so simple you don’t need one. Just follow along online, watch the YouTube video and you’ll have matching hats for everyone before you know it.
Ready to make your new favorite go-to hat? Let’s do this!
Don’t forget to share this with your friends and family with the icons below! 🙏🏽 🥰
Things You Need
Worsted weight (AKA – 4, medium, or 10 ply) yarn – One standard 5 oz (141 gram) ball will work. Play with colour and texture for unique final products. Please note: pom-pom will require more yarn than estimate given.
Size 5 mm (US size 8) single point knitting needles or whatever size you need to acquire the correct gauge.
Tapestry needle – Sew seams and work in ends.
If you want to watch the how-to video showing how to use this website and knit the beanie, you can watch it from the start right here 😊
Gauge
In stockinette
23 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)
17 sts = 4 inches (10 cm)
Sizing Notes
First things first: let’s figure out how big to make the hat. When you’re going by age and gender, the measurements are only approximate – especially for kids. Adult sizes are more standardized: small, medium, large, and extra large.
If the person’s head is handy, measuring it directly is always best. That said, knitting isn’t an exact science. It stretches and contracts as needed, especially with the garter stitch brim this hat uses.
Child Sizing
Data is based on World Health Organization and pediatric growth standards. You can also do an online search for sizing if you believe it to be inaccurate. Other organizations located in the USA, UK, etc give sizes as being slightly larger. A gentle reminder that this is knitting and it does stretch to accommodate close measurements. Close IS usually good enough in this case.
Adult Sizing
Small/Medium - 21 to 22 inches (53.5 – 56 cm)
Large/Extra Large - 23 to 24 inches (57 – 61 cm)
Enter the head measurement you computed or selected above. The calculator will instantly show how many stitches to cast on and what rows to knit.
Cast off all sts. Band complete.
With the RIGHT side of the hat facing you (the single line of stitches is visible and the closest to the top), pick up stitches along the edge. Pick up one stitch in the nub of each garter "ridge", and for every group of five stitches picked up, add an extra stitch between the nubs.
If you need a little help with picking up the stitches, the video is cued up to the right spot in the video to help you out.
Work your way down the length repeating pick up a st in every 5 nubs, pick up a st between the nubs. Knit whatever remaining sts remain after picking up between the ridge nubs (ie 4, 3, 2 or 1 st). The number of sts picked up will vary depending on the size. The number isn't overly important. It's still just knitting and stretches afterall. More detail is in the Hints and Tips section further down the page.
🍄 Next row: Knit across
Next row: Purl across 🍄 Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 for the length calculated below.
Use the calculator below to determine the length of the stockinette portion you need. The repeated rows between 🍄 to 🍄
🌸 Next row: K2tog across. Knit any single remaining sts.
Next row: Purl across
Next row: Knit across
Next row: Purl across. 🌸 Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 until you have 12 sts or less. End when you complete the K2tog row with the correct number of sts.
Break the yarn. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the seam. Draw through all remaining sts. Sew seam.
Done! Told you this was easy 😊
You are welcome to sell, gift, or keep any physical items you make using this pattern. However, the pattern itself is protected by copyright. You may not reproduce, distribute, share, or recreate this pattern, in whole or in part, in any form or format without my written permission.
Think of picking up the sts as this math equation. For every 5 sts you need one extra st. So for as many groups of 5 "ridges" you have of garter st for the band, that's how many extra sts you need to pick up evenly.
So say you have 114 rows to knit for the band. Divide that by 2. The number you get (the number of garter "ridges") is then divided by 5. You have 11 groups of 5. Add 11 (the number of groups) to the number of garter "ridges". Add the number of sts left over (the remainder from dividing, in this case 2. That's roughly the number of sts you need to pick up evenly across the edge. Being off by 1 or 2 sts won't make a difference.
114 ÷ 2 = 57 (you can also just count the number of "ridges" you have.
57 ÷ 5 = 11.4 round to 11
57 + 11 = 68
68 + 2 = 70 👈🏼 the total number of sts to pick up.
If you want to make the hat more floppy on the top or the band wider, have at it. This pattern is easily customizable.
If you want a wider band, cast on more sts. More floppy on top, make the stockinette part longer than directed.
Stay warm and whimsical this winter with my adult-sized winter mushroom hat knitting pattern! This fun and cozy design is the cold-weather companion to my popular Mushroom Bucket Hat, and it pairs perfectly with my Mushroom Fingerless Gloves. The beanie features seven adorable toadstools knit into the body of the hat, making it a great project if you love woodland-inspired fashion, fairycore or cottagecore aesthetics, or just want to knit something a little different for the colder months. Whether you’re making it for yourself, as a handmade gift, or to sell at craft fairs or online, this toadstool toque is sure to turn heads.
The hat is knit flat on two straight needles (no circulars or double-points needed) and seamed at the back—ideal for knitters who prefer working flat. It uses worsted weight yarn, and I’ve included detailed instructions along with how-to videos showing exactly how to make the mushrooms. If you’ve already made the brimmed version of this hat for spring or summer, this is the perfect follow-up for your fall and winter wardrobe. It’s a cozy, cute way to bring a bit of whimsy into the cold months.
To get the mushrooms to pop against the background, you’ll need to catch the yarn at the back when switching colours. Just carry the yarn behind the work and pick it up when knitting on the right side. It’s the same technique as regular colourwork. The video shows you how to pull it tighter for the gloves, but for the hat, your usual tension will work just fine.
The video is queued to the right spot for each row as you knit the mushrooms. I originally showed how to make the toadstools on gloves but kept the video general enough to apply to anything. You can watch the video by clicking the video below. It will automatically play from the start for the gloves with the intro.
I’ve made this hat to only fit adults as I got tired of making hats. I ran out of patience and desire to do the math and make the samples of smaller hats. If you want me to work up child sized versions, let me know. You can leave me a comment below.
If you are a fan of mushrooms and cottage core, I have other mushroom patterns you’ll like. Just like this pattern, they are knit flat with straight needles. Click either the link or the photos to read the patterns for Knit Flat Mushroom Bucket Hat and Knit Flat Mushroom Fingerless Gloves.
For ease of knitting this hat, I generally used one colour for the mushrooms on my sample hat. There is nothing stopping you from making each mushroom unique with its individual coloured stem and cap. It would be a great way to use up some of those small leftovers of yarn that really aren’t good for much more than a single stripe on a scarf.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry,LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country –United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Main Colour (MC): approx. 175 g (one standard ball of big box store yarn will be enough).
Stem Colour (SC): small amount. Each stem uses about 120 cm (47 inches)
Cap Colour (CC): approx. 30 g Each cap uses about 275 cm (108 inches)
1 set of 4 mm (US 6) single pointed knitting needles
1 set of 3.25 or 3.5 mm (US 3 or 4) single pointed knitting needles (optional)
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Pom pom for the top (optional)
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
21-22 inches (23-24 inches)
53.5 – 56 cm (57 – 61 cm)
Brim
With MC cast on 92 (98) sts with the 3.25 or 3.5 mm knitting needles. You can use the 4 mm needles but smaller needles will make a tighter brim edge.
Switch to the 4 mm (US 6) for the remainder of the pattern.
♥ Row 1: ♫ K2 P1♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 2: *P2 K1* Repeat from * to * until the last 2 sts. P2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ for a total of 4 rows
Row 9: K across.
Row 10: P across.
Row 11: K acrossto the last 2 sts. K2tog. (91, 97 sts)
Row 12: As row 10
Mushroom Band or Crown
Row 13: K5. With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ With MC K10 (11). With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 times more. With MC K5. (105, 111 sts)
Row 14: P5. With SC P5. ◊ With MC K10 (11). With SC P5.◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 5 times more. With MC P5.
Row 15: K5. With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.(91, 97 sts)
Row 16: P5. With SC P3. ☺ With MC P10 (11). With SC P3. ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 5 times more. With MC P5.
Row 17: K5. With SC K3. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC K3. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.
Row 18: As row 22
Row 19: K3. With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ With MC K6 (7). With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ Repeat from ₪ to ₪ 5 times more. With MC K3. ( 133, 139 sts)
Row 20: P3. With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † With MC P6 (7). With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † Repeat from † to † 5 times more. With MC P3. (119, 125 sts)
Row 21: K3. M1. ♫ With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. K6 (7). M1. With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 5 times more. With MC K3. (119, 125 sts)
Row 22: P4. With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ With MC P8 (9). With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 5 times more. With MC P4. (105, 111 sts)
Row 23: K4. M1. ♣ With CC TWK2tog K3 K2tog. With MC M1 K8 (9) M1. With CC TWK2tog With MC M1. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 times more. With MC K4. (105, 111 sts)
Row 24: With MC P across
✾ Row 25: K across
Row 26: P across ✾ Repeat from ✾ to ✾ for an additional 5 1/2 inches or 14 cm. You can make this shorter if you would like a fitted beanie or longer if you want a longer and floppier toque.
✿ Next row: K2tog across. If a single st remains, knit it.
Next row: P across ✿ Repeat from ✿ to ✿ 2 more times.(14 sts. If you have 1 more or 1 less st it won’t make a difference).
Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam and add embellishments to the mushrooms if desired. Work in all ends.Watch the video for help on finishing and catching any loose stitches. Add a pom pom if you like! You can use this link – Finishing
How to Make the Dots (French Knots)
You can make the dots or you can do flecks on your mushroom caps. You can even leave the cap plain if you like. It’s up to you. To make the flecks, just go over a few stitches with a complimentary colour of yarn.
If you want to make the dots, they’re French knots, you can watch the video below.
Hints and Tips
The video showing how the knit the mushroom is very similar but not exactly the same. The stem is shorter than in the original mushroom in the video. It fits the hat better when done like this. Also, the mushroom cap is one row shorter. Because the stitches are stockinette on the right side, purling across on the wrong side with the main colour looks ok on the right side.
I suggest not keeping the lengths of the stem colour long like I did for the mushroom in the video (I also don’t include the french knots in the length required for the stems) There are 7 ends to contend with and can be a bit cumbersome to manage when trying to knit. It’s better to use a shorter length to knit the stem and come back with another, separate length of yarn to make the embellishments like the french knots or the flecks.
The lengths of yarn given for the stem and mushroom are approximate only. You may need more or less depending how much you need to wrap around your fingers for even tension. Similarly, the amount of yarn given to make this toque doesn’t include a pom pom. Adjust your yarn accordingly.
Abbreviations
st – stitch
sts – stitches
sl – slip the stitch
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.
TBLP2tog – (Through the Back Loop, Purl 2 sts together) – Purl 2 together through the back loop from left to right.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
I do like fungi and I do like hats. So what better than to combine the 2 and make a hat with mushrooms! Is it to everyone’s taste? Heck, no. And I knew that when I designed it. And boy was it a challenge. It took me 9 complete hats to get the design to work and sit on the head right. It started as a single mushroom, smack dab in the front, but it just didn’t work no matter what I did. Now there are 7 toadstools all around the hat.
For this pattern, you’ll need to pull the stitches together so the mushroom stands out from the background. To do this, pass the yarn behind your work and catch it when knitting on the right side. It’s done the same way you do any colour work when knitting. The video has you pull it tighter for the gloves, but for the hat, how you normally do it will work.
The video is queued to the right spot for each row as you knit the mushrooms. I originally showed how to make the toadstools on gloves but kept the video general enough to apply to anything. You can watch the video by clicking the video below. It will automatically play from the start for the gloves with the intro.
I’ve made this hat to only fit adults as I got tired of making hats. I ran out of patience and desire to do the math and make the samples of smaller hats. If you want me to work up child sized versions, let me know. You can leave me a comment below.
If you would like to make a plain bucket hat that is designed to fit the whole family, be sure to check out this one. Knit flat with straight needles and 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, it works up super fast! Here’s the link to read that pattern – Knitted Bucket Hat for Children and Adults
For ease of knitting this hat, I generally used one colour for the mushrooms on my sample hat. There is nothing stopping you from making each mushroom unique with its individual coloured stem and cap. It would be a great way to use up some of those small leftovers of yarn that really aren’t good for much more than a single stripe on a scarf.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country –United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle downloadand paperback versions are available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member. When you become a Website Supporter at $4/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts on Buy Me A Coffee. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Stem Colour (SC): small amount. Each stem uses about 120 cm (47 inches)
Cap Colour (CC): approx. 30 g Each cap uses about 275 cm (108 inches)
1 set of 4 mm (US 6) single pointed knitting needles
1 set of 3.25 or 3.5 mm (US 3 or 4) single pointed knitting needles (optional)
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
21-22 inches (23-24 inches)
53.5 – 56 cm (57 – 61 cm)
Brim
With MC cast on 122 (130) sts with the 3.25 or 3.5 mm knitting needles. You can use the 4 mm needles but smaller needles will make a tighter brim edge.
Switch to the 4 mm (US 6) for the remainder of the pattern.
♥ Row 1: K across
Row 2: *K2 P2* Repeat from * to * until the last 2 sts. K2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ for a total of 8 rows
Row 9: K4 🍄 K2tog K6 Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 to the last 6 sts. K2tog K4 (107, 114 sts)
Row 10: K2 P2 🐿️ K1 P2 K2 P2 🐿️ Repeat from 🐿️ to 🐿️ to the last 5 sts. K1 P2 K2
Row 11: K across
Row 12: As row 10
Row 13: ♦ K2tog K5 ♦ Repeat to the last 2 sts. K2tog. (91, 97 sts)
Row 14: ♪ K1 P2 ♪ Repeat to the last st. K1
Mushroom Band or Crown
☼ Row 15: K across
Row 16: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time.
Row19: K5. With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ With MC K10 (11). With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 times more. With MC K5. (105, 111 sts)
Row 20: P5. With SC P5. ◊ With MC K10 (11). With SC P5.◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 5 times more. With MC P5.
Row 21: K5. With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.(91, 97 sts)
Row 22: P5. With SC P3. ☺ With MC P10 (11). With SC P3. ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 5 times more. With MC P5.
Row 23: K5. With SC K3. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC K3. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.
Row 24: As row 22
Row 25: K3. With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ With MC K6 (7). With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ Repeat from ₪ to ₪ 5 times more. With MC K3. ( 133, 139 sts)
Row 26: P3. With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † With MC P6 (7). With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † Repeat from † to † 5 times more. With MC P3. (119, 125 sts)
Row 27: K3. M1. ♫ With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. K6 (7). M1. With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 5 times more. With MC K3. (119, 125 sts)
Row 28: P4. With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ With MC P8 (9). With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 5 times more. With MC P4. (105, 111 sts)
Row 29: K4. M1. ♣ With CC TWK2tog K3 K2tog. With MC M1 K8 (9) M1. With CC TWK2tog With MC M1. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 times more. With MC K4. (105, 111 sts)
Row 30: With MC P across
✾ Row 31: K across
Row 32: P across ✾ Repeat from ✾ to ✾ 1 (2) times more.
Next row: K8 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (95, 100 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K7 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (85, 89 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K6 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (75, 78 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K5 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (65, 67 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K4 K2tog Repeat from to to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (55, 56 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K3 K2tog Repeat from to to the last st. K5 (1). (45, 45 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K2 K2tog Repeat from to to the last st. K1. (34, 34 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K1 K2tog Repeat from to to the last st. K1. (23, 23 sts)
Next row: P across
Next row: K2tog across. K the last st. (12, 12 sts)
Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam and add embellishments to the mushrooms if desired. Work in all ends.Watch the video for help on finishing and catching any loose stitches. You can use this link – Finishing
How to Make the Dots (French Knots)
You can make the dots or you can do flecks on your mushroom caps. You can even leave the cap plain if you like. It’s up to you. To make the flecks, just go over a few stitches with a complimentary colour of yarn.
If you want to make the dots, they’re French knots, you can watch the video below.
Hints and Tips
This hat needs to be blocked, so to speak. To get the correct sizing at the end, it’s best to get the stitches to relax. You can do this by steaming the piece and gently stretching it over a bowl, mannequin head or even a Styrofoam ball. If you are able to, using the head of the intended wearer can also work.
The video showing how the knit the mushroom is very similar but not exactly the same. The stem is shorter than in the original mushroom in the video. It fits the hat better when done like this. Also, the mushroom cap is one row shorter. Because the stitches are stockinette on the right side, purling across on the wrong side with the main colour looks ok on the right side.
I suggest not keeping the lengths of the stem colour long like I did for the mushroom in the video (I also don’t include the french knots in the length required for the stems) There are 7 ends to contend with and can be a bit cumbersome to manage when trying to knit. It’s better to use a shorter length to knit the stem and come back with another, separate length of yarn to make the embellishments like the french knots or the flecks.
The lengths of yarn given for the stem and mushroom are approximate only. You may need more or less depending how much you need to wrap around your fingers for even tension.
Abbreviations
st – stitch
sts – stitches
sl – slip the stitch
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.
TBLP2tog – (Through the Back Loop, Purl 2 sts together) – Purl 2 together through the back loop from left to right.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
This is an old riff on a new design. As you may know, I have a thing for owls. I’m also starting to develop a thing for hats. In particular, bucket hats. I have a crochet versionand a double thick knit version done thus far. With this hat, the owls can easily be replaceable with any design. And yes, I will be replacing it with various stitch patterns, colours and the like. I may even redesign it so it’s knit in the round on multiple needles so there’s no seam. If you would like that pattern, let me know in the comments.
Unlike my other plain knitted bucket hat, this one doesn’t require anything beyond a single pair of knitting needles and a cable needle. If you’ve made my other owl projects like the scarf, fingerless gloves and the beanie hat, then you’ll be able to make this up in no time.
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Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)
4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
16 buttons or jewels for eyes
Gauge
In stockinette
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
Top
With main colour
Cast on 5
Row 1: INC across (10 sts)
If there are any stitches that you don’t know how to make, please go to the Abbreviations section at the end of the pattern. I embedded the how-to YouTube videos for you to watch there. 😊
Row 2: P across (always P across for every even row, or WRONG side, until told otherwise directed in the instructions)
Row 3: *K1 M1 * Repeat from * to * until last 2 sts. K2 (18 sts)
Row 5: ♠ K2 M1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ until last 2 sts. K2 (26 sts)
Row 7: ♦ K3 M1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until last 2 sts. K2 (34 sts)
Row 9: ♥ K4 M1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until last 2 sts. K2 (42 sts)
Row 11: ♪ K5 M1 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ until last 2 sts. K2 (50 sts)
Row 13: ▲ K6 M1 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ until last 2 sts. K2 (58 sts)
Row 15: ☼ K7 M1 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ until last 2 sts. K2 (66 sts)
Row 17: ⌂ K8 M1 ⌂ Repeat from ⌂ to ⌂ until last 2 sts. K2 (74 sts)
Row 19: ∞ K9 M1 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ until last 2 sts. K2 (82 sts)
Row 21: ♣ K10 M1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ until last 2 sts. K2 (90 sts)
Stop here if making the sm/med size hat. Go to row marked with ■ and skip row 23 and 24.
Row 23: ◄ K11 M1 ◄ Repeat from ◄ to ◄ until last 2 sts. K2 (98 sts)
Owl Band
■ Change colour for top stripe.
Next 4 rows: K across.
Change colour for owls.
Next row (right side): K across.
Next row (wrong side): K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1
Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1(2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ɵ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) ɵ Repeat from ɵ to ɵ 7 times more. K1
Next row (right side): P1 ɸ P1(2) C4F C4B P2 ɸ Repeat from ɸ to ɸ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 Ʊ K2 P8 K1(2) Ʊ Repeat from Ʊ to Ʊ 7 times more. K1
☺Next row (right side): P1 ¤ P1(2) K8 P2 ¤ Repeat from ¤ to ¤ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ɚ K2 P8 K1(2) ɚ Repeat from ɚ to ɚ 7 times more. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺
2 times more.
Next row: P1 ☻ P1(2) C2F C2B P2 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1
◊ Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1 (2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ȸ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) ȸ Repeat from ȸ to ȸ 7 times more. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊
4 times more.
Change colour for bottom stripe.
Next row: K1 ∆ K1(2) C4F C4B K2 ∆ Repeat from ∆ to ∆ 7 times more. K1
۞Next row: K0(2) ♥ P3 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ across
Next row: K across
Next row: Repeat row marked with ۞
Next row: ♫ INC K3 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ across. K0(2). (150 (162 sts)
Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across
§ Next row: K across
Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across § Repeat from § to § 2 more times.
Cast off.
Hints and Tips
Unlike the other knit bucket hat I have, there is nothing overly tricky about this one. It knits flat on one set of needles making it much easier to make.
Blocking your final project is always up to you. Most things I make I never block. I did with the smaller version (yellow with the yarn eyes) so it would fit the mannequin head better. I cannot recommend a steamer enough! There are a variety on Amazon for fairly cheap. These use nothing but steam, and even when using acrylic yarn, it still holds its shape while relaxing the stitches and doesn’t squash the knitting like a standard iron will.
I also decided to try embroidering on the eyes for the owls. I’m also running out of the half cabochons for eyes so I kinda had to. Do I love it? I don’t hate it and prefer the half cabs but that’s just me. All I did was run a single strand of yarn behind the owls and embroider over the stitches in the eye position. You can see the yarn running behind a bit. If it was a lighter yarn behind a darker colour it would look better. I also left enough yarn between eyes to stretch with the hat. Make sure it’s not too tight if you do this!
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch Click this link to watch this video to see how.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how.
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.
