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Posted on March 22, 2025March 22, 2025 by admin — 16 Comments

Cable Knit Slippers for Children and Adults – FREE Knitting Pattern

Cable Knit slippers - free knitting pattern

Learn to knit comfy, cozy cabled slippers. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for children from a small size 3 to large 3, and a woman’s and man’s size 4 to 12. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.

If you are newer to knitting and have never done cables before, I’ll show you how. In the Abbreviations section at the end of this pattern, I’ve embedded videos that show you how easy it is to do it. Please note though, in this pattern, one of the first I ever wrote, I refer to the cable as C2F (cable 2 forward) and C2B (cable 2 back). I still refer to it as such in this pattern, though now I refer to it as C4F (cable 4 forward) and C4B (cable 4 back) in my new patterns. It means the same thing. The first refers to the number of stitches you’re pulling forward or back. The later refers to the total number of stitches being used by the cable. People complain about both versions of the terminology so I add this little explanation now 😊

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Things you will need:

If you are having a difficult time locating the supplies you need to make these slippers, click any link below to have it mail right to your door.

200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).

Size 4.5 (US size 7) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Cable knitting needle

Darning needle to sew the seams and work in the ends.

Gauge:

14 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Children’s Sizes 3 – 3

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 3-4 (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3)

Cast on 29 (29, 31, 32, 34, 35, 37)

Row 1: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 K3 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K3 P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Row 2: K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) P3 K3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5) P1 K7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) P1 K3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5) P3 K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5)

Row 3: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Repeat rows 2–5 3 (4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8) times more.

Next row: Repeat row 2.

Shape Toe

Next row: K2tog once (once, once, once, twice, twice, twice) K 1 (1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0) P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17,19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K 1 (1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0) K2tog once (once, once, once, twice, twice, twice) Click here for an explanation.

🌸 Next row (and all remaining even rows): K3 P3 K3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5) P1 K7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) P1 K3 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5) P3 K3

Next row: K2 P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌸 (All rows when wrong side of the work is facing you.)

🌼 Next row: K2 P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌸

Next row: K2 P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌸 🌼

Repeat from 🌼 to 🌼 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times more.

End Toe

Next row: K2tog P1 SL1 K2tog PSSO P1 K1 (1, 1, 0, 0, 1, 0) K2tog 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9) times P1 SL1 K2tog PSSO P1 K2tog.

Next row: Knit

Next row: K2tog to the end of the row. If you have an extra stitch at the end of the row, knit it.

Next row: Knit

Pull yarn through.

Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.

Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.

Row 4: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 5 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 9 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.

Row 16: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 17 – 19: Knit across.

Bind off.

When shaping the toe, once completed the row, you should have 2 knit stitches before the purl of the cable at the beginning of the row and 2 stitches after the last purl after the cable at the end of the row regardless of the size. Depending on the size you either knit 2 stitches together twice or knit two stitches together once and knit the one remaining stitch. Regardless of size this gives the two stitches.

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You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
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Adult Sizes:

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such:

Women’s 4-5 (6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men’s 4 (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

A woman’s size 6-7 is the same as a man’s size 5-6. A woman’s size 8-9 is the same as a man’s size 7-8. etc.

Cast on 40 (44, 46, 48, 50)

Row 1: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 2: K4 (5, 5, 6, 6) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K4 (5, 5, 6, 6)

🍄 Row 3: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 1.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 K2 C2B P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K2 C2B P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 8: Repeat row 2.

Row 9: Repeat row 1.

Row 10: Repeat row 2. 🍄

Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) times more.

Shape Toe:

Next row: K2tog 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) times K1 (2, 2, 1, 1) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 1, 1) K2tog 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) times. 38 (42, 44, 44, 46) sts.

Next row: K3 (4, 4, 4, 4) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K3 (4, 4, 4, 4)

Next row: K2tog K 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) K2tog. 36 (40, 42, 42, 44) sts.

🌻 Next row: K2 (3, 3, 3, 3) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K2 (3, 3, 3, 3)

❤️ Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 K2 C2B P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K2 C2B P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with🌻

⭐️ Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌻

🍞 Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌻

Next row: Repeat row marked with ⭐️

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌻

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤️

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌻

Next row: Repeat row marked with ⭐️

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌻 🍞

Repeat from 🍞 to 🍞 0(1, 1, 2, 3) times more.

End Toe:

Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌻

Next row: Repeat row marked with ⭐️

Next row: Repeat row marked with🌻

Next row: K2tog across.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog 9 (10, 10, 10, 11) times.

Knit the last stitch for women’s sizes 8-9 and 10-11 and the men’s sizes 7-8 and 9-10 only.

Next row: Knit across.

Pull yarn through.

Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches. This video will help you make it if you’re not sure.

Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.

Row 4: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)

Row 5 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 9 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.

Row 16: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 17 – 19 : Knit across.

Row 20: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 21 – 23 : Knit across.

Row 24: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 25 – 27: Knit across.

Bind off.

Hints and tips:

This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurements such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.

The children’s slipper is made with a smaller cable than the adult sizes. It uses C1F and C1B to allow for the smaller foot size.

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

SL 1 – Slip 1 stitch off knit ways

PSSO – Pass the slipped stitch over

Side note:
I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess. Regardless, there are videos below to show you how to do it.

I’m linking the videos to the C2B and C2F to the newer videos I have for the C4F C4B. THEY ARE THE SAME STITCH I’m choosing to link to the newer videos because the old ones are exactly that – old. The new ones are much better and shot in higher definition.

C1F – Cable 1 forward (this is done the same way as the C2F, but instead of knitting and pulling forward 2 stitches, only knit and pull one stitch forward). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the front of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle. There is a video further down this page to help.

C1B – Cable 1 backward (this is done the same way as the C2B, but instead of knitting and pulling of 2 stitches to the back of your work, only knit and pull one stitch back). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle. There is a video further down this page to help.

C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. The video is called C4F but it is the same as C2F.

C2B – Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. The video is called C4B but it is the same as C2B.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected] or through my contact form.

Janis Frank

This pattern gives you permission to sell or give away anything that you make with this pattern. It does NOT give you permission to give away, reproduce in any form or sell this pattern.

Posted on March 18, 2025March 20, 2025 by admin — Leave a comment

Extra Thick and Quick to Knit Owl Mittens – FREE Pattern

Knitted Owl Mittens - knit flat easy quick knitting pattern

Whooo’s ready to knit some cozy mittens? These extra-thick owl mitts are the perfect project to keep your hands warm and your knitting fun! Knit flat on straight needles, with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or super bulky yarn, they’re a fast and easy make, even if you’re newer to knitting. The adorable owl motif adds a charming touch, while the simple construction makes them great for new knitters looking to tackle their first mitten project. Whether you’re making a pair for yourself or as a thoughtful gift, these mitts will fly off your needles in no time!

These owl mitts are designed to fit adult hands from small to large, so you can make a pair for just about anyone. Using super bulky yarn, they knit up quickly and create an extra-thick, cozy fabric that’s perfect for chilly weather. Plus, I’ve included helpful videos to guide you through making the owl motif, so even if you’re new to knitting with decorative details, you’ll have all the support you need to bring these charming mitts to life!

If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.

If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The downloads and paperback versions are available in English only.

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Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Things You Need

You can make the mittenss with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, or one strand of super bulky yarn. Take your pick. But please note, you don’t need both. Choose one or the other.

Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). You’ll have leftover yarn.

Super Bulky yarn – (186 yards/170 m) like Bernat or Lion brand. Not all super bulky yarn is as thick as others. A Bulky yarn may also work if it’s on the thicker side. As long as your gauge is the same your sizing will be accurate.

5.5 mm (9 US) Small/Medium single point needles

6 mm (10 US) Large single point needles

Cable needle

Tapestry needle – to sew seams and work in ends

Sizing

Like my fingerless gloves I’ve designed, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the mitten.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized mitt of this pattern fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge and accurate sizing.

hand sizing for knitting gloves mitts and mittens

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small/Medium (this size will fit most hands comfortably)

Size 5.5 mm (US size 9) single pointed needles

13 stitches every 4 inches (10 cm)

22 rows every 4 inches (10 cm)

Large

Size 6 mm (US size 10) single pointed needles

12 stitches every 4 inches (10 cm)

18 rows every 4 inches (10 cm)

Choose Your Cuff

You have a choice of cuff to make with this mitten pattern. If you prefer a looser cuff with a more solid feel, you can make the first version. If you prefer a tighter, ribbed cuff you can follow the instructions for the K1 P1 version for 12 rows. Choose one or the other. Don’t do both. Once you choose your cuff, move on to row 13.

** If you need any help with any stitch or technique, there are videos at the end of the pattern to help you. **

Click here to watch videos

Left Hand

Cast on 28

* Row 1: K across

Row 2: K1 P2 across. K last st * Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows. The cuff looks like this when done.

If you would prefer a ribbed cuff, make the following for the 12 rows:

Row 1-12: ◊ K1 P1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ across. It will look like this when done.

♠ Row 13: K across

Row 14: P across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ one more time.

Row 17: K11 M1 K1 M1 K16 (30 sts)

Row 18: P across

Row 19: K across

Row 20: P16 PM1 P3 PM1 P11 (32 sts)

Row 21: K across

Row 22: P across

Row 23: K11 M1 K5 M1 K16 (34 sts)

Row 24: P3 K1 P8 K1 P21

Row 25: K21 P1 C4F C4B P1 K3

Row 26: P3 K1 P8 K1 P3 PM1 P7 PM1 P11 (36 sts)

Row 27: K23 P1 K8 P1 K3

Row 28: P3 K1 P8 K1 P23

Row 29: K11 M1 K9 M1 K3 P1 K8 P1 K3 (38 sts)

Row 30: P3 K1 P8 K1 P25

Row 31: K25 P1 K8 P1 K3

Row 32: P3 K1 P8 K1 P25

Row 33: K11 Pass the next 11 sts onto your st holder. K3 P1 C4F C4B P1 K3 (27 sts)

Row 34: P3 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P3 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P11 (28 sts)

Row 35: K15 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K3

Row 36: P3 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P15

Row 37: As row 35

Row 38: As row 36

Row 39: As row 35

Row 40: As row 36

Row 41: As row 35

Row 42: As row 36

Row 43: K15 P1 C4F C4B P1 K3

Row 44: P3 K10 P15

♦ Row 45: K across

Row 46: P across ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ for a total of 12 rows.

Row 59: K2tog across (14 sts)

Row 60: P across

Row 61: K2tog across (7 sts)

Row 62: P across. Break yarn leaving about a foot of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.

Thumb

Pick up the 11 sts from the st holder and put them on you knitting needle.

▲ Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across ▲ Repeat for ▲ to ▲ for a total of 10 rows.

Row 11: K2tog across. K the last st.

Row 12: P across. Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.

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Right Hand

Cast on 28

* Row 1: K across

Row 2: K1 P2 across. K last st * Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.

OR (choose the same as you did for the left hand)

If you would prefer a ribbed cuff, make the following for the 12 rows:

Row 1-12: ◊ K1 P1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ across.

♠ Row 13: K across

Row 14: P across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ one more time.

Row 17: K16 M1 K1 M1 K11 (30 sts)

Row 18: P across

Row 19: K across

Row 20: P11 PM1 P3 PM1 P16 (32 sts)

Row 21: K across

Row 22: P across

Row 23: K16 M1 K5 M1 K11 (34 sts)

Row 24: P21 K1 P8 K1 P3

Row 25: K3 P1 C4F C4B P1 K21

Row 26: P11 PM1 P7 PM1 P3 K1 P8 K1 P3 (36 sts)

Row 27: K3 P1 K8 P1 K23

Row 28: P23 K1 P8 K1 P3

Row 29: K3 P1 K8 P1 K3 M1 K9 M1 K11 (38 sts)

Row 30: P25 K1 P8 K1 P3

Row 31: K3 P1 K8 P1 K25

Row 32: P25 K1 P8 K1 P3

Row 33: K3 P1 C4F C4B P1 K3 Pass the next 11 sts onto your st holder. K11 (27 sts)

Row 34: P11 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P3 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P3 (28 sts)

Row 35: K3 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K15

Row 36: P15 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P3

Row 37: As row 35

Row 38: As row 36

Row 39: As row 35

Row 40: As row 36

Row 41: As row 35

Row 42: As row 36

Row 43: K3 P1 C4F C4B P1 K15

Row 44: P15 K10 P3

♦ Row 45: K across

Row 46: P across ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ for a total of 12 rows.

Row 59: K2tog across (14 sts)

Row 60: P across

Row 61: K2tog across (7 sts)

Row 62: P across. Break yarn leaving about a foot of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.

Thumb

Pick up the 11 sts from the st holder and put them on you knitting needle.

▲ Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across ▲ Repeat for ▲ to ▲ for a total of 10 rows.

Row 11: K2tog across. K the last st.

Row 12: P across. Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.

Hints and Tips

Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.

If you find the fingers a little short, you can make extra rows after the owl. The pattern has 12 rows. They are a little longer than I would make for myself, but my fingers are a bit stubby. They should fit the majority of people as written.

Try mixing a tweed yarn with a plain yarn for an interesting effect. I made the lighter owl with the specks using a tweed yarn and a beige yarn; both worsted weight. Any thing with a subtle fleck of colour will work. The pink/red owl is a bulky yarn with a single ply of white worked into the single large strand. It may be hard to make out the owl if you use a variegated yarn.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

st – stitch

sts – stitches

k2tog – knit 2 together

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.
How to C4B or Cable 4 Back

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how.
How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on
How to PM1 or Purl Make 1

If you need some help with how to use a stitch holder when making the thumb, I have a video for that too 😊

If you aren’t sure how to draw the yarn through at the end of the fingers and thumbs, it’s pretty simple. You’re gathering the stitches together. Watch this video on
How to Gather Stitches.

Posted on March 3, 2025March 3, 2025 by admin — Leave a comment

Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern – Now with How-to Video!

how to knit super simple fingerless gloves how-to video pattern

Are you just learning to knit? Tired of making dishcloths and scarves and want to make something awesome? Here is something that will make you look like a pro when it comes to knitting. A total brag-worthy design that any knitting newbie can make.

I’ve written a bunch of beginner patterns for slippers, but never for fingerless gloves. It was a common request, but for some reason, I never felt compelled to do so. After a bit of false starts and redesigns, I’ve finally come up with a fingerless glove pattern that I am happy with. I’ve kept the seams to a minimum and placed the seam along the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb. If you’re not a fan of seams my other fingerless gloves and mitts knitted on dpn can be found here – Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS, How to Knit Texting Mittens, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves and How to Knit Flip Mitts.

I’ve also jazzed up this basic design a bit. If you want to knit owl gloves flat on 2 needles just like this pattern is, You can use this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to read the free knitting pattern online.

These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches.

And finally, after much procrastinating, the complete how-to video is done! I even show how to sew up the seams and work in the ends. I know there have been a few of you out there that don’t like how their seams turn out. This is how I make mine flat and even.

I’ve also written the pattern to fit different sizes – small, medium and large. Once again I’ll use the analogy of what fits my hand. I wear a medium rubber glove and the medium size fits my hand perfectly. I wash dishes and scrub my toilets. I wear gloves when I do. If you never wear rubber or latex gloves, this won’t make any sense to you, I guess. I’m only saying this because I have had complaints about my sizing references. I don’t live in a gloveless kind of world but I’m glad some people do. It always amazes me what some “Karens” feel the need to bitch about ? If you want to go to a specific size you can try these links. If I’ve done my code correctly, it should take you to the right point on the webpage:

Small

Medium

Large

I’ve made a PDF download for this pattern. I didn’t think it was going to be this long until I wrote it out. I made the decision to write each size and hand out separately to make it even easier for the new knitters out there who want to give this pattern a go. And btw, you can totally do it! To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from this website – KweenBee.com.

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Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing.

2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts

2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows

If You Need Help with the M1 or P1

Scroll down to the end of the page to watch quick how-to videos showing how to do these simple stitches. There’s a video showing how to use a stitch holder too!

Things You Need:

Worsted weight yarn – one regular ball will be more than enough

Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle

Small

Right Hand

Cast on 31

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K18 M1 K1 M1 K12

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P12 PM1 P3 PM1 P18

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K18 M1 K5 M1 K12

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P12 PM1 P7 PM1 P18

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K18 M1 K9 M1 K12

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: K18. Slip the next 11 stitches onto a stitch holder. K12.

Row 38: Purl across

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41-48: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 11 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 31

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K12 M1 K1 M1 K18

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P18 PM1 P3 PM1 P12

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K12 M1 K5 M1 K18

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P18 PM1 P7 PM1 P12

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K12 M1 K9 M1 K18

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: K12. Slip the next 11 stitches onto a stitch holder. K18.

Row 38: Purl across

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41-48: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 11 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Medium

Right Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K19 M1 K1 M1 K13

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P19

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K19 M1 K5 M1 K13

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P19

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K19 M1 K9 M1 K13

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P19

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K19. Slip the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K13.

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-52: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

More of my Stuff on Etsy

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Left Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K13 M1 K1 M1 K19

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P19 PM1 P3 PM1 P13

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K13 M1 K5 M1 K19

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P19 PM1 P7 PM1 P13

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K13 M1 K9 M1 K19

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P19 PM1 P11 PM1 P13

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K13. Slip the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K19.

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-52: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Large

Right Hand

Cast on 35

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K20 M1 K1 M1 K14

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P14 PM1 P3 PM1 P20

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K20 M1 K5 M1 K14

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P14 PM1 P7 PM1 P20

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K20 M1 K9 M1 K14

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P14 PM1 P11 PM1 P20

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K20 M1 13 M1 K14

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: K20. Slip the next 15 stitches onto a stitch holder. K14.

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45: Knit across

Row 46: Purl across

Row 47-54: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 15 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 35

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K14 M1 K1 M1 K20

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P20 PM1 P3 PM1 P14

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K14 M1 K5 M1 K20

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P20 PM1 P7 PM1 P14

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K14 M1 K9 M1 K20

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P20 PM1 P11 PM1 P14

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K14 M1 13 M1 K20

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: K14. Slip the next 15 stitches onto a stitch holder. K20.

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45: Knit across

Row 46: Purl across

Row 47-54: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 15 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

The purple fingerless mitts have 60 rows total between the garter stitch cuff and the start of the thumb gusset (Row 15 – 22). I don’t think I would increase much further than that. The glove itself isn’t very stretchy and won’t fit further up the forearm. Too much bunching may also make the glove push its way further down and off the fingers.

I used some self-striping yarn to make these. Not all striping yarn is created equal. Some of them are designed to stripe for larger projects and don’t really work for smaller projects like this. Though with saying that, you could always cut the yarn and start a new colour where you choose. You will have more ends to deal with, but I have a post that shows you How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. ?? This link will take you right there.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.

How to make one or M1 – Increase between stitches.

PM1- Make one (purl wise). Pick up the stitch as you did for M1, but purl the stitch as you regularly would. You can watch the video below.

And for those of you who are unsure of how to use a stitch holder, I made a quick little video that shows you how to do it without cutting the yarn. It’s a time saver for sure. No one likes working in ends if they can avoid it.

Posted on February 22, 2025February 24, 2025 by admin — Leave a comment

Stay-Put Tie-Up Slippers – Handmade House Slippers You’ll Love!

Looking for a knitting pattern to make cozy hand-knit house slippers that actually stay on your feet? These handmade slippers are easy and quick to make, perfect for beginners who want a simple hand-knitting project with great results. Designed with a unique tie-up feature, they hug your feet for a snug, secure fit—no more slipping off while you walk! Whether you’re knitting for yourself or making a thoughtful gift, this pattern works up fast and can be customized with your favorite colors. Grab your needles and let’s get started!

You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Stay-Put Tie-Up Knitted Slippers for Men and Women. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Buy Me A Coffee, Ravelry, and Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon.

Become a Member

Buy Me A Coffee

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.

Things You Need

1 MAIN colour of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

1 COMPLIMENTARY colours of worsted weight yarn for the tie (optional).

1 set of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. A new page will open so you won’t lose this one.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 18 sts

4” = 36 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Cast on 41(43, 47, 49)

Ϫ Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Repeat form Ϫ to Ϫ for a total of 6 rows.

Row 7: K2 (3, 5, 5). ▲Cast off one stitch, K1▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ 4 times more. Cast off one stitch, K4 (4, 4, 6) ▲Cast off one stitch, K1▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ 4 times more. Cast off one stitch. K1 (2, 4, 4). (29, 31, 35, 37 sts. Problem with the st count? Go to Hints and Tips section for details.)

Space left from casting off the single st.

This is the smallest size with cast off spaces. Larger sizes have more sts at the end and in the middle.

Row 8: P2 (3, 5, 5). ◊ Cast on one stitch, P2 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 4 times more. Cast on one stitch,

P5 (5, 5, 7). ◊ Cast on one stitch, P2 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 4 times more. Cast on one stitch. P2 (3, 5, 5). (41, 43, 47, 49 sts)

Flip the work with the RIGHT side facing you. Cast on as you normally would.

Stitch cast on. Flip your work to the WRONG side and continue with the pattern.

Lace up holes made and back to original number of sts cast on.

Row 9-10: K across.

Row 11: K3 (4, 6, 6) *INC, K4 (4, 4, 3)* Repeat from * to * 6 (6, 6, 8) more times. INC, K2 (3, 5, 6). (49, 51, 55, 59 sts)

Row 12: K across

Row 13: K3 (4, 6, 7) *INC, K5 (5, 5, 4)* Repeat from * to * 6 (6, 6, 8) more times. INC, K3 (4, 6, 6). (57, 59, 63, 69 sts)

Row 14-15: K across

Row 16: K26 (27, 29, 32) ♫ P1 M1 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 3 more times P1 K26 (27, 29, 32). (61, 63, 67, 73 sts)

Row 17: K across

Row 18: K26 (27, 29, 32) ◘ P1 INC ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 3 more times P1 K26 (27, 29, 32). (65, 67, 71, 77 sts)

Row 19: K across

Row 20: K26 (27, 29, 32) ☼ P1 K2 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 3 times more P1 K26 (27, 29, 32).

Row 21: K27 (28, 30, 33) ♠ INC, K2♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 3 more times. K26 (27, 29, 32). (69, 71, 75, 81 sts)

Row 22: K26 (27, 29, 32) □ P1 K3 □ Repeat from □ to □ 3 times more P1 K26 (27, 29, 32).

Row 23: K across

Row 24: As row 22.

Row 25: K27 (28, 30, 33) ☺ K, INC, K2☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 3 more times. K26 (27, 29, 32). (73, 75, 79, 85 sts)

Row 26: K26 (27, 29, 32) ♣ P1 K4 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 3 times more P1 K26 (27, 29, 32).

Row 27: K across.

Row 28: As row 26

Row 29: K27 (28, 30, 33) ♪ K, INC, K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times. K26 (27, 29, 32) . (77, 79, 83, 89 sts)

Row 30: K26 (27, 29, 32) ♯ P1 K5 ♯ Repeat from ♯ to ♯ 3 times more P1 K26 (27, 29, 32) .

For Women’s sizes 6-7 and men’s 6

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: Cast off 36 sts. K4. Cast off 36 sts.

There are 5 sts remaining on your needle.

Continue on to knit the Sole

For Women’s sizes 8-9 and Men’s size 7-8

Row 31: K28, ♪ K2, INC, K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times. K27. (83 sts)

Row 32: K27 # P1 K6 # Repeat from ♯ to ♯ 3 times more P1 K27.

Row 33: K across

Row 34: Cast off 39 sts. K4. Cast off 39 sts.

There are 5 sts remaining on your needle.

Continue on to knit the Sole

For Women’s size (10-11, 12) and men’s sizes (9-10, 11-12)

Row 31: K across

Row 32: As row 30.

Row 33: K (30, 33) ♪ K2, INC, K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times. K (30, 32). (87, 93 sts).

Row 34: K (30, 32) ♯ P1 K6 ♯ Repeat from ♯ to ♯ 3 times more. P1 K (30, 32).

Row 35: K across

Row 36: Cast off (41, 44) sts. K4. Cast off (41, 44) sts.

There are 5 sts remaining on your needle.

Continue on to knit the Sole

Making the Sole

Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first cast off stitch by the 5 sts remaining of the last row (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Work along these cast off sts on both sides.

K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (5 stitches).

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next row: Knit across.

⌖ Next row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K across. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (7 stitches).

Next row: Knit across.

 Next row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (7 stitches).

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row with ⌖ (9 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row with  (9 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row with⌖ (11 sts)

Toe starting to form. View on the RIGHT side.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row with  (11 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row with ⌖ (13 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

♥ Next row: Repeat row with  (13 sts)

Sole starting to form as picking up sts along sides.

Next row: Knit across. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until there are 5 cast off stitches to pick up.

✿ Next row: Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. K2tog twice Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (11 stitches).

Next row: Knit across.

⌘ Next row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (11 stitches).

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row with ✿ (9 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row with ⌘ (9 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row with ✿ (7 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

More of My Stuff on Etsy:

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
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Making the Heel

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.

Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the ridge closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog once. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog once. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (7 stitches).

Next row: K across

Next row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K3tog K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side. (5 sts)

Next row: K across

Next row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side. (5 sts)

Next row: K across

Next row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side. (5 sts)

Next row: K2tog K1 K2tog. (3 sts)

Next row: K3tog. Break yarn and fasten off. Sew the remaining seam up the back of the heel.

Making the Tie and Lacing

Holes for the tie are made with the cast off and cast on sts in rows 7 and 8. There are 6 holes on each side.

Use what you like to make the tie. You can use a crochet hook and make a simple chain, use a shoe lace, a piece of ribbon, or cast on about 62 (65, 71, 74) sts and immediately cast off the next row if you want a plain knot to tie the slippers. Cast on and cast off about 82 (86, 94, 98) sts if you would prefer a bow. Make a braid of 6 or 9 strands. There are many options.

Hints and Tips

If you’re having trouble with Row 7, make sure to knit the cast off stitches (marked in italics) after the repeated cast off stitches. If you skip this step, you’ll end up with too many stitches at the end.

Casting off leaves one stitch on the needle. With K4 there are 5 sts for the start of the sole.

Cast on loosely in Row 8 to create a more noticeable hole. You can also use stitch markers to make them easier to find.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 together

INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to INC When Knitting – Increase one stitch

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or redistribute this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

Posted on January 31, 2025February 22, 2025 by admin — Leave a comment

Flat Knit Slippers with a Puffy Cuff – Simple & Cozy Knitting Pattern

Flat Knit Slippers with a Puffy Cuff knitting pattern

Keep your feet warm and cozy with this slipper pattern! Designed to be knit flat on two sets of needles, this knitting pattern is perfect for those who prefer straight needle knitting. The plush, rolled cuff adds extra warmth around the ankles, and you can customize the length to make them as short or as tall as you like. Whether you’re looking for a quick project or a comfy gift idea, these slippers are a great choice.

To make things even easier, I’ve included plenty of step-by-step photos to guide you through every part of the process. The construction is simple but creates a nearly seamless fabric that keeps your feet toasty. So grab your yarn and needles, and let’s knit up a pair of slippers that will keep your toes warm all season long!

You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Flat Knit Slippers with a Puffy Cuff – Simple & Cozy Knitting Pattern. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon.

Become a Member

Buy Me A Coffee

Things You Need

1 or more COMPLIMENTARY colours of worsted weight yarn. How many colours is up to you.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 32 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin – Cuff

Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) loosely

With first colour for the puffy portion of the cuff (COMPLIMENTARY colour)

* Row 1: P across

Row 2: K across * Repeat from * to * 3 more times for a total of 8 rows.

☺ ♠ Row 9: Change to MAIN colour of slipper. K across

Row 10: P across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 1 more times for a total of 4 rows.

Change to next COMPLIMENTARY colour (if applicable) for puffy portion of the cuff.

Row 14: K across. (Yes, knit)

Row 15: K across. (Yes. Knit again).

♦ Row 16: P across

Row 17: K across ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 1 more time (There are 6 rows for the puffy band). ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺3 more times or how every many colours or puffy portions you would like. As written, it will give you 5 puffy bands. The rainbow slippers are 6 with a total of 4 repeats.

Next row: Change to MAIN colour of slipper. K across

Next row: P across. The remainder of the slipper is done in the MAIN colour.

Toe Flap

Next row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

♥ Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Purl across. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 13 (14, 15, 16) times more for a total of 28 (30, 32, 34) rows total.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up evenly 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. To avoid a hole, make sure the first st you pick up is in this specific st as shown. All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up evenly 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. To avoid a hole, make sure the last st you pick up a stitch in this specific st as shown. Knit the remaining 11 (12,13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle).

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

*This is the basic moccasin slipper but the technique is exactly the same.*
*I used a double pointed needle to work my 14 stitches*
*for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!*

Next row: K32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on the first needle. KNIT all the sts on the toe flap (middle) needle. K32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on the third needle.

Next row: (right side facing you) Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or men’s size 7.

*These are the ridges picked up along the side.*

Next row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

*Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.*

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

*Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.*

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next row: Knit across.

ʤ Next row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Next row: Knit across ʤ

Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

*Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.*

*Continuing to work down the length of the sole*

*Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.*
*Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.*

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Making the Heel

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper. The video link I previously gave on how to make the sole, also has how to make this triangle. It’s not exactly the same as this one, it’s larger, but it can give you a good idea of how to do it if these photos are still confusing for you.

*Pick up sts in these ridges on the RIGHT side*

♪ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog once. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog once. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).

Next row: K across ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 0 (0, 1, 2) more times

Ҩ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).

Next row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.

Next row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left.

Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats than stated in Row 17.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a video that can help you with how to work in your ends while you knit.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Posted on January 13, 2025January 13, 2025 by admin — Leave a comment

Crochet Weighted Granny Square Blanket – Made with Washers!

Use this crochet pattern at your own risk! The washers are choking hazards and the weight may not be appropriate for those with limited abilities. This is NOT a medical product!

This crochet pattern is also VERY basic, lacking the detailed how-to photos and explanations I usually add to my patterns. That’s why the printable download is free. Please be kind with your comments and critiques. If you have additional info you’d like to add, the comment section is open 😊

The squares are purposely kept small. I wanted to add as many washers as possible per square inch. Smaller squares means more squares, which hold more washers.

Join the squares together however you like. You can sew them together or make running SL STs to join them. Like I said, this is a limited crochet pattern and I’m not showing how to do that with this basic pattern.

Please scroll to the bottom of the page if you would prefer to download the FREE PDF version!

Things You Need

To make a 13.4 lb or 6.1 kg weighted blanket (a total of 96 square, lap sized blanket)

96 – 1.5” stainless steel washers. I got mine at Home Depot. Each weighs 64 grams

Worsted weight (8 ply) yarn in colours of your choice. You can use up yarn from your stash to make the flowers and surrounding border. (I haven’t finished the blanket myself as of yet so I can’t give firm amounts). A couple of 1 lb balls (like the Caron brand) should be more than enough if doing one solid colour.

Size 4.5 mm (G/7) crochet hook

Tapestry needle – to work in the ends

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A link will pop up. Tap it to see ALL of my crochet patterns.

To start and with one washer, hook your yarn and pull through the centre. YO and and pull through the loop. This does NOT count as the first SC. Make 24 SC through the hole around the washer. Join with a SL ST to the top of the first SC

Round 2: Ch 4 ◘ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop through the same st as join. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 3 more times. YO and draw through all 5 loops on your hook (petal made). Ch 2. Skip next 2 SC and in the 3^rd SC.

☺♦ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop through the 3rd SC. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 4 more times. YO and draw through all 6 loops on your hook (petal made). Ch 2. Skip next 2 SC.☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ around. Join with SL ST to the top of the starting Ch 4. (8 flower petals).

Round 3: SL ST in first Ch 3 space. Ch 3 (counts as 1 DC) 2 DC. Ch 2. ♠In the next Ch 3 space, 3 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC, Ch 2 (corner made). In the next Ch 3 space, 3 DC Ch 2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ around. In last Ch 3 space, 3 DC, Ch 2, 3 DC, Ch 2 (last corner made). Join with SL ST to top of starting Ch 3.

Round 4: Ch 1 (counts as first SC). SC in each of the next 2 DC. 2 SC in next Ch 2 space. ♫ SC in each of the next 3 DC. 5 SC in the corner Ch 2 space. SC in each of the next 3 DC. 2 SC in the next Ch 2 space. ☼ SC in each of the next 3 DC. 2 SC in the next Ch 2 space. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ around. End with the last repeat at the ☼ mark. Join with SL ST to the top of he starting Ch 1.

Break yarn and pull through.

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Abbreviations

SC – single crochet

DC – double crochet

YO – yarn over

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Hints and Tips

Each washer weighs 64 grams. The average weight of a weighted blanket is about 6.8 kg (15 lbs). A smallish, lap size blanket uses about 96 squares. The total number of washers to meet the weight is 106. If you double up with washers on 10 squares, you can meet the 6.8 kg total weight.

If that’s too heavy, there are plastic washers you can use to replace the metal washer so the squares all look the same. If you want a heavier blanket double up washers on more squares. You can also use smaller washers that weigh less. There are many options to adjust the weight.

And I bought these washers at Home Depot. The number on the washers is the bin number. I don’t know if that’s standard in all Home Depots.

Hold your yarn to the back of your work as you create each square. It will have you less ends to work in.

Click here to read online

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Posted on December 5, 2024December 5, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.

This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.

Like always, you can find the ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF version of this pattern through all my regular online purveyors of creation such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts and of course this website at Adult Moccasin Bootie Slippers – Classic Ugg Style – Knitting Pattern.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)

🦉 Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.

Row 3 – 4: K across. 🦉

Repeat from 🦉 to 🦉 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)

Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.

Break yarn when completed row 2.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

🌸 Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. 🌸

Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.

With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap.

With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.

Needle arrangement for textured bootie slippers — How the needle arrangement should look.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

How to knit slippers — Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif.
I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern.
The horizontal ridges look the same for you.

Making the Sole

If you need help with the sole, you can watch the video. It starts right where you need it to.

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

🐿️ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across 🐿️

Repeat from 🐿️ to 🐿️ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same
for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)

Continue to work down the length of the sole.

Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.

♥︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)

Ridges on the side of adult bootie slipper — The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges
when making the larger sizes.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).

Picking up the stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across ♥︎

Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.

Making the Heel

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.

♦︎ Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♦︎

Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!!

Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
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Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.

If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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Posted on November 12, 2024November 14, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Free Pattern: Knitted Owl Slippers with Cozy Cuff for Adults

free knitting pattern - owl slippers with a cuff

Get ready to knit a pair of slippers that are as cozy as they are charming! This knitting pattern brings together the best of warmth and whimsy, featuring a delightful owl motif perched right on top of the foot. These adult-sized slippers have been crafted with both style and function in mind, thanks to a fitted cuff that hugs your ankle for extra warmth and coziness. Perfect for chilly mornings or relaxed evenings, these slippers will be a go-to pair for any owl lover.

This pattern is designed for knitters with a bit of experience—if you’re comfortable with basic stitches, you’ll be able to follow along with ease. And don’t worry, you won’t be left to navigate the trickier parts alone! I’ve included detailed, how-to videos to help guide you through each step, ensuring that even challenging sections feel doable. Before you know it, you’ll have a cozy, owl-adorned pair of slippers that are sure to turn heads and keep feet warm.

if you are a lover of owls, then you are in LUCK! I have a number of patterns with owls including fingerless gloves, owl beanie, owl bucket hat, and an owl scarf. All are knit flat on 2 needles and are FREE to read on this website. Click any of the links and a new window will open a new page with the entire pattern there for you to enjoy.

You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Owl Slippers with a Cuff – Knitting Pattern. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, CreativeFabrica and Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 🥰.

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Happy Knitting!

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough).
You can use a second colour for the cuff.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable Needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy video tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. The embedded video is in the Abbreviations section

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

2” = 9 sts

2” = 18 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Cuff

With CUFF colour

Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) loosely

 Row 1: K across

Row 2: With the RIGHT side facing you, (K1 P2) across. Maintain this pattern with any remaining sts at the end of the row. 

Repeat from  to  10 (12, 14, 16) times more for a total of 12 (14, 16, 18) rows

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, P across.

Next Row: K across. If cuff colour differs from the MAIN colour, break yarn now. Start the new colour when done knitting this row.

Next Row: K across for 13 (15, 17, 19) rows. Break yarn.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With the MAIN colour and the WRONG side of the ribbing facing you, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

Knit across for 7 (9, 9, 11) rows.

Next Row (with the RIGHT side of the ribbing facing you): K3 P2 K4 P2 K3

Next Row (with the WRONG side of the ribbing facing you): K2 P1 K8 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

♦ Next Row: K2 P1 C4F C4B P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

♥ Next Row: K2 P1 K8 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 more times

Next Row: Repeat row marked with ♦

Next Row: K3 P2 K4 P2 K3

♪ Next Row: K2 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P2 K4 P2 K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times

Next Row: Repeat row marked with ♦

Next Row: K across for 5 (7, 7, 9) rows.

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Sides of Foot

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12, 13,14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14) rows

There are 4 (5, 6, 7) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The following photo shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 12 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The link starts the video in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - picking up stitches

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).

Working your way down the sides — Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole — Starting the sole. Right side.

Making the Heel

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.

Child moccasin slippers - Picking up stitches to make the heel.

Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).

Owl Slippers knitting pattern — The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern — Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and K3tog).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Make sure to increase the same amount of garter stitch rows and ribbed rows equally. If increasing 10 rows, do so on both.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. You can watch the how to video here – how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on October 14, 2024October 17, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Knitted Deer Slippers with a Cuff – FREE Knitting Pattern

I’ve always wanted to design a pair of slippers that had a bit more character and substance—something that not only looks good but fits snugly and keeps you cozy. The deer motif on top of the foot gives these slippers a rustic charm, while the substantial cuff provides extra warmth and a secure fit. These slippers are great for knitters who are comfortable with basic stitches and ready to dive into something a bit more intricate.

This pattern is packed with various cable stitches, so you’ll get plenty of practice with your cable needle. The cables vary—sometimes you’ll be knitting the stitches on the cable needle, sometimes purling, and the number of stitches will also change. To keep things simple, I explain how to work each cable stitch as you go along, so you won’t need to constantly check the Abbreviations section.

This isn’t a beginner pattern, but if you’re familiar with the basics of knitting and feel comfortable using a cable needle, you’ll be able to handle this. I’ve included lots of helpful photos to guide you through the deer motif, so you’ll have plenty of visual aids as you knit.

You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knitted Deer Moccasin Slippers with a Cuff. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, CreativeFabrica and Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 🥰. If a link isn’t working, I either haven’t formatted it for the distributor or I’m waiting for approval.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

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Happy Knitting!

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough)

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable Needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy video tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. The embedded video is in the Abbreviations section

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

2” = 9 sts

2” = 18 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Toe Flap

Cast on 14 sts

🦌 Row 1: P across

Row 2: K across 🦌

Repeat from 🦌 to 🦌 2 (3, 4, 5) times more for a total of 6 (8, 10, 12) rows

Next Row: P6 K2 P6

Next Row: K5 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. P the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, P the next st. P the st on the cable needle. K5

🌼 Next Row: P5 K4 P5

Next Row: K5 P4 K5 🌼 Repeat from 🌼 to 🌼 one more time

Next Row: P4 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. K the st on the cable needle. K2 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, K the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P4

Next Row: K4 P6 K4

Next Row: P4 K6 P4

Next Row: K4 P6 K4

Next Row: P3 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next 2 sts. K the st on the cable needle. K2 Pick up the next 2 sts with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, K the next st. K the 2 sts on the cable needle. P3

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

Next Row: P3 K2 P1 K1 PM1 K1 P1 K2 P3 (15 sts)

Next Row: K3 P2 K1 P1 K1 M1 P1 K1 P2 K3 (16 sts)

Next Row: P3 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) P1 K1 P2 K1 P1 K2tog (as you normally would left to right) P3 (14 sts) This video shows how to knit the first K2tog. It’s for the leaf but it’s done the same way.

Next Row: K5 P1 K2 P1 K5

Next Row: P4 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K1 in the st BELOW (see photos). P1 the st on the cable needle. K1 P2 K1 P1 K1 in the 2^nd st BELOW (knit this st in the knit st you made before the P1 as shown in the photos). P4 (16 sts)

How to knit deer antlers — *Knit in the stitch below*

*The other antler.*
*You already knitted the st so it needs to be*
*2 sts down as shown. This is the st that is*
*bold and italicized in the pattern.*

Next Row: K4 P1 K1 P1 K2 P1 K1 P1 K4

Next Row: P3 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. P the st on the cable needle. P1 K1 P2 K1 P1 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P3

Next Row: K3 P1 K2 P1 K2 P1 K2 P1 K3

Next Row: P2 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. P the st on the cable needle. P8 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P2

Next Row: K2 P1 K10 P1 K2

🍄 Next Row: P across

Next Row: K16 🍄 Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 1 (2, 3, 4) times more. If you want a different colour for the cuff, break yarn when the last row is completed.

Making the Cuff

Next Row:(with the optional cuff colour) K16. Cast on an additional 11 (12, 13, 14). You now have 27 (28, 29, 30) sts on your needle.

Next Row: K27 (28, 29, 30). Cast on an additional 11 (12, 13, 14). You now have 38 (40, 42, 44) sts on your needle.

Next Rows: K across for a total of 13 (15, 17, 19) rows.

Next Row: With the WRONG side facing you, P across.

🌸 🐿️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing you, (K1 P2) across. Maintain this pattern with any remaining sts at the end of the row.

Next Row: K across. 🌸 Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 6 (7, 8, 9) times more. For a total of 14 (16, 18, 20) rows.

Repeat the row marked with 🐿️ one more time.

Cast off loosely with the WRONG side facing you.

If you would like to change the colour around the toe and foot, change colour now.

More of My Stuff on Etsy

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Sides of Foot

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 13 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches evenly along the edge of the cuff and place onto one of your needles. Pick up 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (29, 32, 35, 38) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 13 stitches evenly along the end of the toe flap.

With another needle, pick up 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Pick up 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches evenly along the edge of the cuff and place onto the next needle. (29, 32, 35, 38) stitches on this needle)

*I used a capped double pointed needle to work my 13 stitches*
*for the end of the toe. A regular needle also works.*

Knit the next 8 (10, 10, 12) rows

There are 4 (5, 5, 6) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 12 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The link starts the video in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Making the Heel

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain. End with the K across row.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. K3tog. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches). to sew up the remaining seam. Fold the cuff over when done sewing.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

Picking up the stitch to make the second branch of the antler is sort of up to you. If you pick up the stitch right below where you just knitted, it won’t be a disaster. Most deer antlers aren’t perfectly symmetrical in real life anyways. In fact, the more off they are, the more desirable; especially if it has a drop tine.

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Make sure to increase the same amount of garter stitch rows and ribbed rows.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 together

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would. Watch this video to see how.

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on October 2, 2024October 3, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Crocheted Pumpkin Beanie Hat – FREE Jack o’ Lantern Crochet Pattern

Crochet Halloween Pumpkin Beanie Pattern

As the crisp autumn air rolls in and the scent of pumpkin spice fills the air, there’s no better time to crochet a fun and festive beanie to keep you warm. This pumpkin beanie (or toque) is the perfect project to get into the fall spirit. Whether you’re heading out for a pumpkin patch adventure or just cozying up with your favourite latte, this hat is sure to become your go-to accessory for chilly weather.

The design features a whimsical green stem at the top, capturing the playful essence of the season. You can also take it a step further by adding optional felt embellishments like a cute nose, eyes, and mouth to give your beanie a jack-o’-lantern twist. With the freedom to personalize it, you can wear a pumpkin on your head that matches your style and personality!

Don’t worry if you’re newer to the art of crochet—this pattern is easy to follow and comes with plenty of helpful photos along the way. Whether you’re making it for yourself, a friend, or as a gift for a pumpkin-loving family member, this project is as enjoyable to make as it is to wear. Grab your hook, settle in with a cozy blanket, and let’s make something magical for the autumn season!

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Crochet Halloween Pumpkin Beanie – Jack-o-latern Hat. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. No Amazon version for this one. I left it too close to the holiday before I posted this. Maybe next year 😊

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Happy Knitting!

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn. Green for the stem and orange for the pumpkin. An equivalent amount of the 2 colours to one standard ball (278 yards or 255 m) will do

Size 5 mm (H or size 8) crochet hook

Tapestry needle so work in ends

Black felt for face (optional)

Gauge

In single crochet

17 sts = 4 inches or 10 cm

16 rows = 4 inches or 10 cm

The Pattern

To achieve the ribbing effect, all stitches are made in the BACK loop only!

With GREEN Ch 20. Switch to ORANGE and Ch 36. (56 ch total). Turn. In second ch from hook, start row 1:

Row 1: With ORANGE 35 SC. In the 35^th st pull up a loop as you regularly would. Pull the ORANGE yarn forward and switch to GREEN. Complete the SC as normal. 20 SC in remaining chains. Ch 1. Turn.

Row 2: With GREEN 20 SC. In the 20^th st pull up a loop as you regularly would. Pull the GREEN yarn forward and switch to ORANGE. Complete the SC as normal. 35 SC in remaining sts. Ch 1. Turn.

* Row 3: With ORANGE 32 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).

*HDC over these sts. These are the orange sts.*
*(Ignore the green sts. We don’t work them now.)*

*Pull up a loop in the back loop of each st*

Row 4: 33 SC, Ch 1. Turn.

Row 5: 27 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).

*Pull up loops in the back loop of these 2 sts.*
*YO and draw through all 3 loops.*
*Leave remaining 4 sts unworked.*

Row 6: 28 SC, Ch 1. Turn.

Row 7: 22 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).

Row 8: 23 SC, Ch 1.Turn.

Row 9: With ORANGE 35 SC (see photos below for extra help where to crochet the sts). In the 35^th st pull up a loop as you regularly would. Pull the ORANGE yarn forward and switch to GREEN. Complete the SC as normal. 20 SC in remaining chains. Ch 1. Turn.

The followiong is extra help with this row:

To complete this row, you need to pick up the stitches that were decreased. Yours will be ORANGE.

*Stitch made. Continue SC in the back loop.*

Row 10: With GREEN 20 SC. In the 20^th st pull up a loop as you regularly would. Pull the GREEN yarn forward and switch to ORANGE. Complete the SC as normal. 35 SC in remaining sts. Ch 1. Turn.

Row 11: As row 9

Row 12: As row 10 *

Repeat from * to * 7 more times (for a total of 8 sections). End with Row 9 (including the CH 1 and turn) when done the 8^th section.

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Finishing

Bring up the starting edge towards you. The edge you just made is behind the starting edge.

Push your hook between the spaces of the sts on the starting edge AND through the back loop of the row you just finished. Sl st down the length of the beanie, switching from GREEN to ORANGE where the transition occurs.

Break yarn when done. Work in the ends. Turn the hat inside out when done the seam.

Abbreviations

SC – single crochet

HDC – half double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Hints and Tips

The hat is designed to fit adults with the ribbing allowing to fit from small to large. If you have someone with a very large head, I woulduse a larger size hook than what is written.

Form the green stem into a curve. The stitches are dense enough that you can reposition it any way you like.

If you’d like it to be for children, Make less ORANGE sts. The ORANGE chain sts are from the forehead to the crown, so if you know how long this measurement is, you should be able to make it work.

If you feel that the pumpkin needs a little more, you can always add felt cut outs for eyes, nose and a mouth. Cut out the shapes you like with paper first to get the right size and shape you want. Then transfer it onto the felt. If you can find self sticking felt, it’s even easier! And you can take them off and change it out from year to year.

*The basic cut outs I used (not to size)*

You can also add curly tendrils. Actual pumpkins don’t have this but it may look nice regardless. To do so, CH as many as you like and SC in each CH. It will automatically curl.

You can also add leaves. I do have a leaf pattern on my website. It’s not a pumpkin leaf, but could work. Here’s the link How to Crochet Leaves

The photos aren’t all from the pumpkin hat, there is a regular ribbed beanie/hat/toque pattern I did before this. The hat pattern is free on my website.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

Posted on September 19, 2024October 4, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit

Welcome to the next book in the series of my collection of knitting patterns! If you enjoyed my Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitts to Knit, I’m sure you’ll enjoy this one just as much.

This delightful collection of practical yet stylish fingerless glove designs is sure to inspire knitters of all skill levels. Each pattern is knit flat on two straight needles, making them accessible even to those who may be new to knitting or prefer simpler techniques. Whether you’re a beginner eager to complete your first project or an intermediate knitter looking to expand your repertoire with charming new details, this collection offers something for everyone.

The designs range from playful, whimsical animals that add a touch of fun to your wardrobe, to elegant leaves and decorative motifs that showcase a refined sense of style. Each pattern is thoughtfully crafted with the perfect balance of simplicity and creativity, ensuring that the process is as enjoyable as the result.

As you work through the patterns, you’ll find yourself fully supported by helpful step-by-step videos and detailed photos, making even the trickiest techniques feel approachable. With these resources, you’ll gain confidence in your knitting skills and be able to complete each glove with pride. This collection will not only add a unique flair to your knitting projects but will also fill your crafting time with joy and satisfaction.

free knitting pattern fingerless gloves - zigzag elegance

Free knitting pattern fingerless gloves, mitts, mittens, wrist warmers

Knit Spider Gloves - Fre Knitting Pattern - Fingerless Gloves with Spiders

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Knit fingerless gloves - knit flat on straight needles

There are a number of options available to make the fingerless gloves. All the fingerless gloves patterns are free to read on this website. You can use this link – Fingerless Glove and Mitten Patterns to see all of them. I listed them all individually at the end of this post if you are looking for a specific one. 😁

Another option is to purchase and print the pattern yourself. If you are ok with printing the 104 page document, you can buy it from this website – Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit or from my Etsy shop. You can click or tap either of those links to see the collection.

If you would prefer to have the paperback version fully printed, bound and sent directly to your door, you can order the book online from Amazon. Be sure to click on your country so shipping will be as low as possible. If you are an Amazon Prime Member, the shipping is free! If you have a Kindle, the cheaper, digital version is available at the same links.

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

I understand that not everyone is in the financial position to purchase patterns, and that’s ok. That’s why I offer them for free; to enable anyone to use my work and be able to enjoy and even profit from it. That’s why while I give permission for everyone to sell what they make from my patterns, I ask that you respect the patterns themselves. Do NOT make illegal copies of them.

If you know someone who wants to use the patterns, send them the link so they can read the pattern online themselves. It helps me VERY much when you do this. More people on the website tell search engines that what is on my site is valuable and people like it. This makes it more likely that Google, Bing, Yahoo, etc will suggests my patterns when people do a search online.

To make sharing the patterns even easier, there are floating share buttons along the side of this and every page of the website. All you need to do is click it to share it. You can also use these share buttons to share this page.

Now that we’re through all that, here is the list of individual patterns that you can read online for free.

Basic Fingerless Gloves

Knitted Owl Fingerless Gloves

Zigzag Eleganc e

Easy to Knit Cable Fingerless Gloves

Autumn Leaf Half Glove s

Spider Fingerless Glove s

Hippo Fingerless Glove s

Lattice Fingerless Gloves

I hope you enjoy this latest addition to my knitting compilations!

Happy knitting everyone!!!

Posted on September 11, 2024February 24, 2025 by admin — 3 Comments

Knitted Slippers for Men and Women – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knitted Slippers for Men - FREE Knitting Pattern

These slippers are a perfect blend of comfort, style, and simplicity! Whether you’re a knitting novice or a seasoned pro, this pattern is designed to be approachable and fun for everyone. If you’re more experienced, you’ll find that these slippers practically knit themselves, coming together in no time. For beginners, it’s a wonderful way to build confidence while creating something cozy and practical.

The beauty of these slippers lies in their simplicity. The stitches and techniques are basic, but the finished product looks effortlessly elegant. As long as you know how to cast on, knit, purl, K2tog (knit two together), and increase (by knitting two stitches in one), you’ve got everything you need to bring these slippers to life.

Don’t worry if you’re still working on perfecting these skills—this project is forgiving and a fantastic way to practice. Plus, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of slipping your feet into something handmade by you. So, grab your needles and yarn, and let’s knit up some cozy magic!

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knitted Slippers for Men and Women with a Plaid Pattern. You can also get it at a number of other online ebook retailers such as Buy Me A Coffee, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and my Etsy Shop. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

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Happy knitting!

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn Any standard ball of yarn (283 g/10 oz, 471 meters/515 yards) will do.

4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In stockinette

4” = 20 sts

4” = 30 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Heel Flap

Cast on 2 sts

Row 1-3: Knit across.

Row 4: K2 in each st (4 sts). This is also known as INC. See the Abbreviations section for help and a video link.

Row 5-7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (6 sts)

Row 9-11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (8 sts)

Row13 -15: Knit across.

Row 16: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (10 sts)

Row 17-19: Knit across.

Row 20: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (12 sts)

Row 21-23: Knit across.

Row 24: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (14 sts)

Row 25-27: Knit across.

Row 28: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (16 sts)

Row 29-30: Knit across.

Forming the Foot

Row 31: Knit across. Cast on 15 sts. (31 sts)

Row 32: K4 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K16 Cast on 15 (46 sts)

Row 33: K5 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K5

Row 34: K4 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K16 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K4

Row 35: Repeat row 33.

Row 36: K4 P3 K3 P2 K22 P2 K3 P3 K4

Row 37: K7 P3 K2 P4 K14 P4 K2 P3 K7

Row 38: Repeat row 36

Row 39: Repeat row 37

* Row 40: K4 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K16 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K4

Row 41: K5 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K5

Row 42: Repeat row 40

Row 43: Repeat row 41

Row 44: K4 P3 K3 P2 K22 P2 K3 P3 K4

Row 45: K7 P3 K2 P4 K14 P4 K2 P3 K7

Row 46: Repeat row 44

Row 47: Repeat row 45 *

Repeat from * to * 1 (2, 2, 3) more times.

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Shaping Toe

Next row: K2tog K2 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K16 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K2 K2tog (44 sts)

Next row: K4 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K4

Next row: K2tog K1 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K16 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K1 K2tog (42 sts)

Next row: K3 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K3

❤ Next row: K2 P3 K3 P2 K22 P2 K3 P3 K2

❀ Next row: K5 P3 K2 P4 K14 P4 K2 P3 K5

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❀

✪ ✬ Next row: K2 P1 K2 P3 K2 P3 K16 P3 K2 P3 K2 P1 K2

❈ Next row: K3 P2 K3 P2 K3 P1 K14 P1 K3 P2 K3 P2 K3

Next row: Repeat row marked with ✬

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❈

❤ Next row: K2 P3 K3 P2 K22 P2 K3 P3 K2

❀ Next row: K5 P3 K2 P4 K14 P4 K2 P3 K5

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❀ ✪

Repeat from ✪ to ✪ once.

End Toe

For women’s size 6-7 and 10-11 ONLY

and men’s sizes 5-6 and 9-10 ONLY

Do not knit the following 4 rows for the other sizes!

Next row: Knit across.

☺ Next row: K13 P1 K14 P1 K13

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: Repeat row marked with ☺

Knit the following rows for ALL sizes.

Next row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (40 sts)

Next row: K12 P1 K14 P1 K12

Next row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (38 sts)

Next row: K11 P1 K14 P1 K11

Next row: K2tog across. (19 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog across. K last st. (10 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Draw yarn through loops.

Make another slipper to match. Flip up the heel flap triangle and sew the edges of the triangle to the cast on edges. Sew the seam at the top of the foot to the first decreases and work in the ends.

Abbreviations

K – knit

INC – increase a stitch or knit 2 sts in one stitch

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

st- stitch

sts – sts

Hints and Tips

If your K2tog for the second to last row is off, no worries. If there’s 2 stitches, knit them together. It’s not a big deal and it won’t make a noticeable difference.

If you need a larger size slipper than what I’ve written for, you can add more knitting rows onto the end of the toe. If your gauge is correct, 4 rows of knitting will add approximately 1/2” or 1.75cm.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on September 4, 2024September 5, 2024 by admin — 2 Comments

Easy to Knit Cable Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

I’m thrilled to share my latest knitting pattern for fingerless mitts, and yes, my love for these cozy accessories shows no sign of stopping! This time around, I’ve added a twist—quite literally—with a unique cable pattern that elegantly winds its way down the back of the hand. It’s a design element that adds both texture and visual interest, making these mitts a true standout piece.

If you’re someone who’s mastered the basics and is looking to elevate your knitting game, this pattern is the perfect next step. It’s designed to bridge the gap between a beginner and an experienced knitter. And if cabling is new to you, don’t worry—this is the ideal project to dive in and learn something new! I’ve made sure to include video tutorials in the Abbreviations section to guide you through the cabling process, so you’ll have all the support you need.

But that’s not all! I’ve also added links to help you with any other potentially tricky parts of the pattern, like increasing for the thumb gusset. I want to ensure you feel confident and supported every step of the way. So, grab your needles, and let’s knit something beautiful together!

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Easy Cable Knit Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

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Things You Will Need

Worsted weight yarn (less than 100 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves as written. I know because I weighed them). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of single pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew the seams and work in ends

Cable needle

Sizing

Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4) single pointed needles

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6) single pointed needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Left Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1

Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.

Row 7: K15 P1 K16 P1 K3

✰ Row 8: P3 K1 P16 K1 P15

❀ Row 9: K15 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8

Row 11: K15 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Row 12: Repeat ✰Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.

Next row: K12 M1 K M1 K2 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (38 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P17

Next row: K17 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 PM1 P PM1 P13 (40 sts)

Next row: K19 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P19

Next row: K14 M1 K M1 K4 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (42 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P21

Next row: K21 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P5 PM1 P PM1 P15 (44 sts)

Next row: K23 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P23

Next row: K16 M1 K M1 K6 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (46 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P25

Next row: K25 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P7 PM1 P PM1 P17 (48 sts)

Next row: K27 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P27

Next row: K12 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K2 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (35 sts)

❤ Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P14

Next row: K14 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤

✪ Next row: ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 3 sts P2 K1

Next row: P1 ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 2 sts. K2 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.

Cast off

Thumb

Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Cast off

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Right Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1

Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.

Row 7: K3 P1 K16 P1 K15

✰ Row 8: P15 K1 P16 K1 P3

❀ Row 9: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K15

Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8

Row 11: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K15

Row 12: Repeat ✰ Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K2 M1 K M1 K12 (38 sts)

Next row: P17 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K17

Next row: P13 PM1 P PM1 P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 (40 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K19

Next row: P19 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K4 M1 K M1 K14 (42 sts)

Next row: P21 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K21

Next row: P15 PM1 P PM1 P5 K1 P16 K1 P3 (44 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K23

Next row: P23 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K6 M1 K M1 K16 (46 sts)

Next row: P25 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K25

Next row: P17 PM1 P PM1 P7 K1 P16 K1 P3 (48 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K27

Next row: P27 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K2 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K12 (35 sts)

❤ Next row: P14 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K14

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤

✪ Next row: K ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 2 sts P2

Next row: ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 3 sts. K2 P1 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.

Cast off

Thumb

Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Cast off

Sew the seams of the thumbs and along the side of each hand. Work in the ends.

Hints and Tips

You can make the gloves as long or as short as you like. I made 3 repeats of the design. You could do less for a shorter version. The grey pair were repeated 7 times to give you an idea of what it looks like when longer.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – Purl

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on August 24, 2024September 4, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Lattice Fingerless Gloves, Mitts, Wrist Warmers – FREE Knitting Pattern

I want to start this intro off with making everyone aware that this pattern is NOT for beginners. If you are looking for something a little easier or plain I have a couple options that may work better for you. You can try Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern or see what all the options are available by going to the Fingerless Mitts and Glove section on the website.

Even though an experienced knitter will be able to make these, I have provided some photos to help with the pattern. I’m assuming you know how to carry yarn behind your work to change colours. It’s not hard to do, but you do need to watch the tension and make sure that it is neither too tight or loose and is consistent.

I really like how this pattern turned out, though it did take some fiddling to figure out how to incorporate the lattice pattern into the gloves. Now that I’ve figured it out, I thinking about other patterns I can add this detail to ☺. Yes, I am thinking slippers!

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Lattice Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 10 US (6 mm) knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Sizing

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 6 mm (US size 10) knitting needles

8 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

10 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Colours

MC – Main colour. The colour of the cuffs and lattice design

BG – Background colour. The colour the lattice is on. The palm and back of the hand.

HC – Highlight colour. The band at the end of the wrist section and start of the cuff at the fingers

Continue using the colour until stated to change in the pattern.

You can use more colours than the 3 colours listed. You can use one colour and made tone on tone fingerless mitts. It’s up to you.

Right Hand

Cast on 33 sts

Row 1: With MC K across

Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: K across

Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Carry yarn behind your work for row 23 (saves an end to work in)

Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)

Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at the end of row 22.

Row 23: *With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. With BG K13. Break BG colour.

Row 24: Pass next 13 sts onto working needle. With MC YF, Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat to the end of the row. (Don’t work this stitch. Let yarn hang).

Row 25: Join BG K across.

Row 26: P across.

☼ ♣ Row 27: With MC K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times more. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. (see Abbreviations for photos to LK).

♦ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise *YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise

Row 29: With BG K across

Row 30: P across

♥ Row 31: With MC *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

■ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise * YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise, * Repeat from * to * 3 times more.

Row 33: With BG K across

Row 34: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.

Row 35: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 36: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 37: With BG K26 M1 K M1 K11 (40 sts)

Row 38: P across

Row 39: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 40: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 41: With BG K across

Row 42: P12 PM1 P PM1 P27 (42 sts)

Row 43: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 44: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 45: With BG K across

Row 46: P across

Row 47: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 48: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 49: With BG K28 M1 K M1 K13 (44 sts)

Row 50: P across

Row 51: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 52: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 53: With BG K across

Row 54: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P29 (46 sts)

Row 55: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 56: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 57: With BG K across

Row 58: P across

Row 59: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 60: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 61: With BG K30 M1 K1 M1 K15 (48 sts)

Row 62: P across

Row 63: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 64: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 65: With BG K across

Row 66: P16 PM1 P PM1 P31 (50 sts)

Row 67: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 68: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 69: With BG K across

Row 70: P across

Row 71: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 72: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 73: With BG K26 Pass next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K11 (37 sts)

Row 74: P across. Break BG yarn

Row 75: Repeat ♣ Row 27. Break MC yarn. Pass the 25 sts just worked onto the other needle with 12 unworked stitches.

Row 76: With HC K4 * K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more.K2tog K4 (33 sts)

Row 77-79: Knit across

Row 80: With MC K across

Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Row 82: Repeat row 80

Row 83: Repeat row 81

Cast off.

Make Thumb

Transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle.

☺ Row 1: With MC K across

♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K

Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1

Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2

Cast off

Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.

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Left Hand

Cast on 33 sts

Row 1: With MC K across

Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: K across

Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Break yarn.

Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts. This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)

Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at end of row 22.

Row 23: With BG K13.*With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. Break BG colour.

Row 24: With MC and YF Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat from * to * 3 times more. YF. Pass next 13 sts onto working needle.

Row 25: Join BG K across.

Row 26: P across

۞ § Row 27: With BG K13. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (see Hints and Tips andAbbreviations for photos to cross yarn and LK respectively).

۩ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise . Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

◊ Row 29: With BG K25 over the 25 sts from previous row.

Row 30: P across.

ʘ Row 31: With BG K13 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (40 sts)

▲ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise *YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 33: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 34: P across. ۞ Repeat from ۞ to ۞ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.

Row 35: With BG K11 M1 K M1 K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1 Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (40 sts)

Row 36: Repeat ۩ Row 28.

Row 37: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 38: P across

Row 39: With BG K15 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.

Row 40: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 41: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 42: P27 PM1 P PM1 P12. (42 sts)

Row 43: With BG K17. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.

Row 44: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

Row 45: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 46: P across

Row 47: With BG K13 M1 K M1 K3 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (44 sts)

Row 48: Repeat ▲ row 32

Row 49: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 50: P across

Row 51: With BG K19. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.

Row 52: Repeat ۩ Row 28

Row 53: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 54: P29 PM1 P PM1 P14 (46 sts)

Row 55: With BG K21 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.

Row 56: Repeat ▲ row 32

Row 57: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 58: P across.

Row 59: With BG K15 M1 K M1 K5. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (48 sts)

Row 60: Repeat ۩ Row 28

Row 61: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 62: P across

Row 63: With BG K23 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.

Row 64: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 65: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 66: P31 PM1 P PM1 P16 (50 sts)

Row 67: With BG K25. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.

Row 68: Repeat ۩ row 28

Row 69: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 70: P across

Row 71: With BG K11. Pass the next 13 sts onto a st holder K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. LK. (37 sts)

Row 72: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 73: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 74: P across

Row 75: With BG K12 Break BG colour yarn. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Break MC. Pass ALL of the sts just worked onto the non-working needle.

*Where the needle point is when done the row.*

*Where the needle point needs to be at the start of the row*

Row 76: With HC K4 *K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K2tog. K4 (33 sts)

Row 77-79: Knit across. Break yarn.

Row 80:With MC K across

Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K

Row 82: Repeat row 80

Row 83: Repeat row 81

Cast off.

Make Thumb

transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle.

☺ Row 1: With MC K to the last st. K

♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1

Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2

Cast off

Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.

Hints and Tips

Don’t pull your yarn tight when pulling the yarn across the back of your work. Give enough slack to let the stitches stretch as they should and NOT bunch up. Not doing so will make the gauge significantly smaller and the glove won’t fit.

The lattice pattern is worked when the WRONG side is facing you.

The palm of the hand is plain. FYI I tried to make the lattice pattern all over the mitt. It looked and felt weird and had NO stretch.

You don’t need to add the rolled edge. Rows 1-8 create the roll. You can start with the ribbing at Row 9.

If you want to have a longer version of the glove than what is written, you may need to add more sts to the 13 st section so it will fit around the forearm. There isn’t a lot of stretch to allow for the wide part of the upper forearm.

Crossing over the yarn is straight forward. It needs to look like this or you will get odd shaped stitches.

If you are a left handed knitter, the crossing over of the yarn may need to be done on the right hand instead of the left. I’m not left handed, but logic would dictate things are reversed. In light of you being left handed, I’m assuming this isn’t the first time you’ve run across this issue.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – Purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches

YF – pull the yarn to the FRONT of your work

YB – pull the yarn to the BACK of your work

Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle without working the stitch.

LK – loop knit. Pick up the loop running across between the sts. Knit this and the next st on the needle.

*Knit the st and loop and drop the st from*
*the non-working needle as you normally would.*

The loops on the edge are slightly harder to see but done the same way.

*Yarn is crossed.*
*Loop between the edge and the st picked up.*

*Knitting the loop and next st nearly finished.*

*The loop between the st and the edge is a little harder to see.*

*…and the last st on the non-working needle.*
*Work this as you did the others.*

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on August 12, 2024August 14, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Zigzag Elegance – FREE Fingerless Gloves Knitting Pattern

Once again, I’m back to one of my favourite, smaller projects to knit: fingerless gloves! I’ve designed a number of different ones over the years with some of my most popular being the Owl Gloves, Spider Fingerless Gloves, Hippo Gloves and the Autumn Leaves Fingerless Gloves, to name a few. Like this pattern, they too are knit flat on straight needles. Over the years I’ve found that most people prefer this to those knit in the round, though I do have those too ☺

Like the other patterns, and to keep the design on the back of the hand centered, I change the size of the needles to make them larger or smaller. There’s more about that in the Gauge section with a quick reference info graphic to help you with the sizing. These are designed for adult hands,but if you would like them even smaller for children, I recommend using thinner yarn and needles. I can’t help with what the final sizing would be unfortunately. It’ll be a guess on your part unless you know how to do the math.

If you need help with any of the techniques used in the pattern, there are links and playable videos in the Abbreviations section after the pattern. All the videos that will show you exactly how to do it.

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Zigzag Elegance Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)

Knitting needles – described below in sizing and gauge

Stitch Holder

Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends

Sizing and Gauge

Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the spider consistent to the size of the glove.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off. Most knitting is tbh.

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4)

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6)

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8)

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

All use stockinette for gauge.

Right Hand

Cast on 35

♠ Row 1: * K2 P1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. K2

Row 2: * P2 K1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: K across

Row 10: P across

♦Row 11: K2 [K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO] K18 (33 sts) The pattern between the [ and ] make up the pattern up the back of the hand on the RIGHT side.

Row 12: P22 YO P6 YO P5 ♦ (35 sts) Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 7 more times (You can repeat these 2 rows as more than 7 times if you want longer gloves.)

Row 27: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO K3 M1 K1 M1 K14 (35 sts)

Row 28: P24 YO P6 YO P5 (37 sts)

Row 29: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO K20 (35 sts)

Row 30: P14 PM1 P3 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (39 sts)

Row 31: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K22 (37 sts)

Row 32: P26 YO P6 YO P5 (39 sts)

Row 33: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3 M1 K5 M1 K14 (39 sts)

Row 34: P28 YO P6 YO P5 (41 sts)

Row 35: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K24 (39 sts)

Row 36: P14 PM1 P7 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (43 sts)

Row 37: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K26 (41 sts)

Row 38: P30 YO P6 YO P5 (43 sts)

Row 39: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3 M1 K9 M1 K14 (43 sts)

Row 40: P32 YO P6 YO P5 (45 sts)

Row 41: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K28 (43 sts)

Row 42: P14 PM1 P11 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (47 sts)

Row 43: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K30 (45 sts)

Row 44: P34 YO P6 YO P5 (47 sts)

Row 45: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3. Transfer the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K14 (32 sts)

Row 46: P21 YO P6 YO P5 (34 sts)

Row 47: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K17 (32 sts)

Row 48: P21 YO P6 YO P5 (34 sts)

Row 49: K across

Row 50: * K1 P2 * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1

Row 51: P1 * K2 P1 * Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Row 52: as row 50

Row 53: as row 51

Cast off

Making the Thumb

Transfer the the sts on the st holder back to the knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing:

Row 1: K across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: K across

Cast off

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Left Hand

Cast on 35

♠ Row 1: * K2 P1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. K2

Row 2: * P2 K1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: K across

Row 10: P across

♦Row 11: K18 [K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO] K2 (33 sts) The pattern between the [ and ] make up the pattern up the back of the hand on the RIGHT side.

Row 12: P6YO P6 YO P21 ♦ (35 sts) Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 7 more times (You can repeat these 2 rows as more than 7 times if you want longer gloves.)

Row 27: K14 M1 K1 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (35 sts)

Row 28: P6 YO P6 YO P23 (37 sts)

Row 29: K20 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (35 sts)

Row 30: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P3 PM1 P14 (39 sts)

Row 31: K22 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (37 sts)

Row 32: P6 YO P6 YO P25 (39 sts)

Row 33: K14 M1 K5 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO] K2 (39 sts)

Row 34: P6 YO P6 YO P27 (41 sts)

Row 35: K24 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (39 sts)

Row 36: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P7 PM1 P14 (43 sts)

Row 37: K26 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (41 sts)

Row 38: P6 YO P6 YO P29 (43 sts)

Row 39: K14 M1 K9 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (43 sts)

Row 40: P6 YO P6 YO P31 (45 sts)

Row 41: K28 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (43 sts)

Row 42: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P11 PM1 P14 (47 sts)

Row 43: K30 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (45 sts)

Row 44: P6 YO P6 YO P33 (47 sts)

Row 45: K14 Transfer the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (32 sts)

Row 46: P6 YO P6 YO P20 (34 sts)

Row 47: K17 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (32 sts)

Row 48: P6 YO P6 YO P20 (34 sts)

Row 49: K across

Row 50: * K1 P2 * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1

Row 51: P1 * K2 P1 * Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Row 52: as row 50

Row 53: as row 51

Cast off

Making the Thumb

Transfer the the sts on the st holder back to the knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing:

Row 1: K across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: K across

Cast off

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

st – stitch

sts – stitches

YO – Yarn over. Pull the yarn FORWARD under your working needle when knitting and knit the next stitch OR pull the yarn BACK under your working needle for a purl and purl the next stitch. Increases one stitch in your work and makes a hole.

How to YO the KNITTING

How to YO when PURLING

K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together

Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle. Do NOT knit the stitch.

PSSO – on your working needle, pass the slipped stitch over the stitch just worked. It may be a knit or a K2tog. This and Sl st are a combo that are often done together.

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.

Hints and Tips

If you prefer to knit the last two stitches together on the left side of the design instead of Sl st and PSSO, make sure that you twist the stitch and put it back on your non-working needle. I did this for the autumn leaf gloves I mentioned earlier. You can watch how I do it here – Motif Edges – Autumn Leaf Half Gloves

I like using ombre or colour transitioning yarns for these. Solid colours also work well. Lighter colours tend to be better as it can be hard to discern the pattern with dark colours like black, brown, purple and such. Variegated colours would probably make the pattern indistinguishable.

You can make the cuff at the fingers and wrist different colours for a little extra flair.

Make the fingerless mittens as long as you like. I made an additional 7 repeats of the design, but you could do more or less. If you do more you should probably cast on more stitches as the arm get thicker towards the elbow, then decrease down to the number of stitches as written in the instructions.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on July 23, 2024September 8, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Cozy Knitted Lace Up Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knit Lace Up Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

Perfect for new knitters, these slippers are knit flat on just two needles, making them an ideal project for beginners or anyone looking for a straightforward, relaxing knit.

These charming slippers feature a lace-up design at the front, adding a delightful touch of customization and ensuring a snug fit. You can easily adjust the colours to match your personal style or to use up those leftover yarns in your stash.

Whether you’re knitting for yourself, a loved one, a thoughtful handmade gift, or to sell, these slippers are sure to bring warmth and comfort to any pair of feet. So, gather your materials, find a cozy spot, and let’s get started on creating your very own pair of Cozy Lace-Up Slippers!

If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Cozy Knitted Lace Up Slippers, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and the Kindle and paperback versions are available on Amazon.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 354 yard, 7 oz or 324 m, 198 gram ball will be more than enough to make single colour slippers).

Size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. If you are using multiple colours, you can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men’s size 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Unlike most knitting patterns, this pattern’s right side and wrong side are reversed. All ODD numbered rows are the WRONG side and all the EVEN numbered rows are the RIGHT side.

If you need help with the M1, there is a video in the Hints and Tips section.

With lace up section colour, cast on 52 (60, 60, 68) sts. Leave a longer length to sew the top of the toe (about 18 inches).

Row 1 (wrong side): K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4

Row 2 (right side): K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8

Row 3: As row 1

Row 4: K4 (P2 K2) to last 8 sts. P8

Row 5: As row 1

Row 6: As row 4

Row 7: As row 1

Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. (ie. red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple). See Hints and Tips section for more information.

♠ Row 8: K to last 8 sts. P8

Row 9: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)

Change to colour for heel section.

♦ ☺ Row 20: K to last 8 sts. P8

Row 21: K across ☺

Row 22: K to last 8 sts. M1 P8

Row 23: As row 21 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 3 more times. (56, 64, 64, 72 sts)

Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 0 (1, 2, 3) times more for an additional 0 (2, 4, 6) rows.

♫ Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8

Next row: K across

Next row: K to the last 10 sts. K2tog. P8

Next row: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 3 more times. (52, 60, 60, 68)

Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. Remember to knit the rows in the reverse order you did originally (ie. purple, blue, green, yellow, orange, red)

♣ Next row: As row 8

Next row: As row 9 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)

Change to lace up section colour

Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8

Next row: K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4

Next row: As row 4

Next row: As row 1

Next row: As row 4

Next row: As row 1

Next row: K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8 (As row 2)

Next row: Repeat row 1

Cast off

Make another slipper to match.

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Slipper Laces (make 2)

If you know how to crochet, you can use a size 5 mm (US size 8) and chain as many sts to make it 3 times the length of the slipper. Slip stitch in every chain. Tie off. Stretch out the lace when done.

If you want to knit it instead, cast on 140 (160, 1600, 180) sts. Cast off. Stretch out the lace when done.

You can also braid 3 lengths of yarn to form the lace. I’m not sure how long of lengths you’ll need to do this.

How I laced up the slipper. The lace up areas are sewn together but you don’t have to.

Hints and Tips

There are 12 rows (6 ridges) that form the pattern on the side of the slipper after the lace up area. You can change colours any way you would like for this section. I’ve shown a number of combinations: 1 colour (beige), 2 colour alternating (purple), 3 colour lighter to darker (browns), 6 colour (rainbow), but you may want to try something else.

*The 6 colours are 2 rows each for a total of 12 rows.*

To sew the seams, use a simple whip stitch for the toe and the lace up section. You don’t want thick seams for these slippers. And speaking of the lace up section, you don’t have to sew it all the way. Up part way, past the toes, will work. I sewed mine all the way up to the rolled cuff. I like how it fits, looks and feels when it’s sewn all the way. But that’s just my preference.

Use the whip stitch when sewing the toes. Draw the stitches together as tightly as you can to draw them together to give a rounder look. To have them draw together even tighter, when you are done with the whip stitch, pull the ends through each corner. Flip the slipper inside out. Weave in each end. When doing this pull the yarn ends even tighter and work the end back on itself to secure it.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

P2tog – purl to sts together.

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch.

K2tog – knit 2 sts together.

YO – yarn over. With this pattern, when you go from making the purl st to the knit st, don’t pull the yarn to the back of your work. The YO is forming the hole to weave the lace through.

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on June 17, 2024July 4, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Knit Flat Bucket Hat – with OWLS! Free Knitting Pattern

This is an old riff on a new design. As you may know, I have a thing for owls. I’m also starting to develop a thing for hats. In particular, bucket hats. I have a crochet version and a double thick knit version done thus far. With this hat, the owls can easily be replaceable with any design. And yes, I will be replacing it with various stitch patterns, colours and the like. I may even redesign it so it’s knit in the round on multiple needles so there’s no seam. If you would like that pattern, let me know in the comments.

Unlike my other plain knitted bucket hat, this one doesn’t require anything beyond a single pair of knitting needles and a cable needle. If you’ve made my other owl projects like the scarf, fingerless gloves and the beanie hat, then you’ll be able to make this up in no time.

If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

Not a fan of reading things online or would like to print this pattern? You can download the ad free PDF version of this pattern for a small here – Knit Owl Bucket Hat, from Ravelry, LoveCrafts, my Etsy S hop or as a Kindle or paperback from Amazon.

Another option, become a member on this site. It’s not overly expensive, only $3 per month, and you can cancel at any time.

In the exclusive member area, I’ve listed all of my patterns by category and you can download them with a single click. No waiting for links through an email. Simply click the link, the pattern downloads, and depending on your computer or smart device settings, opens automatically. Easy peasy. Once you become a member, you can also read the pattern online without ads or pop-ups. Interested? Click the link below…

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)

4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

16 buttons or jewels for eyes

Gauge

In stockinette

10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizes are written as such:

S-M (L-XL)

Top

With main colour

Cast on 5

Row 1: INC across (10 sts)

If there are any stitches that you don’t know how to make, please go to the Abbreviations section at the end of the pattern. I embedded the how-to YouTube videos for you to watch there. 😊

Row 2: P across (always P across for every even row, or WRONG side, until told otherwise directed in the instructions)

Row 3: *K1 M1 * Repeat from * to * until last 2 sts. K2 (18 sts)

Row 5: ♠ K2 M1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ until last 2 sts. K2 (26 sts)

Row 7: ♦ K3 M1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until last 2 sts. K2 (34 sts)

Row 9: ♥ K4 M1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until last 2 sts. K2 (42 sts)

Row 11: ♪ K5 M1 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ until last 2 sts. K2 (50 sts)

Row 13: ▲ K6 M1 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ until last 2 sts. K2 (58 sts)

Row 15: ☼ K7 M1 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ until last 2 sts. K2 (66 sts)

Row 17: ⌂ K8 M1 ⌂ Repeat from ⌂ to ⌂ until last 2 sts. K2 (74 sts)

Row 19: ∞ K9 M1 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ until last 2 sts. K2 (82 sts)

Row 21: ♣ K10 M1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ until last 2 sts. K2 (90 sts)

Stop here if making the sm/med size hat. Go to row marked with ■ and skip row 23 and 24.

Row 23: ◄ K11 M1 ◄ Repeat from ◄ to ◄ until last 2 sts. K2 (98 sts)

Owl Band

■ Change colour for top stripe.

Next 4 rows: K across.

Change colour for owls.

Next row (right side): K across.

Next row (wrong side): K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1(2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ɵ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) ɵ Repeat from ɵ to ɵ 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ɸ P1(2) C4F C4B P2 ɸ Repeat from ɸ to ɸ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 Ʊ K2 P8 K1(2) Ʊ Repeat from Ʊ to Ʊ 7 times more. K1

☺Next row (right side): P1 ¤ P1(2) K8 P2 ¤ Repeat from ¤ to ¤ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ɚ K2 P8 K1(2) ɚ Repeat from ɚ to ɚ 7 times more. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺

2 times more.

Next row: P1 ☻ P1(2) C2F C2B P2 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1

◊ Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1 (2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ȸ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) ȸ Repeat from ȸ to ȸ 7 times more. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊

4 times more.

Change colour for bottom stripe.

Next row: K1 ∆ K1(2) C4F C4B K2 ∆ Repeat from ∆ to ∆ 7 times more. K1

Next 3 rows: K across

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Brim

Change to main colour.

Next row: * K2 M1 K1* Repeat across. K0(2). (120 (162 sts)

۞ Next row: K0(2) ♥ P3 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ across

Next row: K across

Next row: Repeat row marked with ۞

Next row: ♫ INC K3 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ across. K0(2). (150 (162 sts)

Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across

§ Next row: K across

Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across § Repeat from § to § 2 more times.

Cast off.

Hints and Tips

Unlike the other knit bucket hat I have, there is nothing overly tricky about this one. It knits flat on one set of needles making it much easier to make.

Blocking your final project is always up to you. Most things I make I never block. I did with the smaller version (yellow with the yarn eyes) so it would fit the mannequin head better. I cannot recommend a steamer enough! There are a variety on Amazon for fairly cheap. These use nothing but steam, and even when using acrylic yarn, it still holds its shape while relaxing the stitches and doesn’t squash the knitting like a standard iron will.

I also decided to try embroidering on the eyes for the owls. I’m also running out of the half cabochons for eyes so I kinda had to. Do I love it? I don’t hate it and prefer the half cabs but that’s just me. All I did was run a single strand of yarn behind the owls and embroider over the stitches in the eye position. You can see the yarn running behind a bit. If it was a lighter yarn behind a darker colour it would look better. I also left enough yarn between eyes to stretch with the hat. Make sure it’s not too tight if you do this!

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch Click this link to watch this video to see how.

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

Posted on May 29, 2024February 24, 2025 by admin — Leave a comment

Knit Bucket Hat for Children and Adults – FREE Knitting Pattern

Looking for something to keep the sun off this summer? Why not try a knitted bucket hat. You can even make them for the whole family!

Made with thick yarn, this bucket hat works up faster than most knitted hats. And the stitches are tight. The brim can hold its shape to keep the sun out of your eyes. Because it is knitted you can fold or roll it up to fit any small space in your luggage, pack or bag. Upon arrival, it will look great once you put it on.

For this pattern, I use a very different technique involving multiple needles. Why the extra needles? Round things don’t like to be flat and the stitches get tight if not separated on multiple needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me. Where you end with one needle, the tip of the next needle is there for you to continue on knitting. By doing it this way, the hat is knit flat and NOT in the round.

If you are the type that also crochets, I have a couple of summer hat crochet patterns you may want to take a look at. My Sunny Days Bucket Hat and my very popular Crochet Flower and Bucket Hat. Both are designed only for adults.

If you would like to ad free versions that you can download and print, there are a couple options. You can purchase it from this website – Knit Bucket Hat Pattern for Adults and Children. You can also get the pattern from Buy Me a Coffee, Ravlery, my Etsy Shop or get the paperback and Kindle version from Amazon.

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Things You Will Need

2 balls of worsted weight yarn or 1 ball of Super Bulky Yarn – The standard large size balls (360 yards of worsted weight) will do and you’ll have a lot left over. When using 2 strands of yarn use either the same colour or 2 colours. Combining shades, colours and textures can give interesting effects. (Acrylic, blends and cotton all work)

One set of size US 8 (5 mm) straight (single point) knitting needles

One set of size US 8 (5 mm) dpn (double pointed) knitting needles – We’re using these needles a single pointed needles. These usually come with 5 in a set, are shorter and are less unwieldy when knitting. You can use stitch stoppers at one end of each needle or wrap the end with an elastic band to keep the stitches from slipping off the end.

2 Size US 8 (5 mm) circular needles (optional) – The last rows of the brim for the largest size has a large number of stitches. It can be easier to use circular needles to knit these when used as a regular single pointed needle.

Stitch stoppers (optional) – for the ends of the dpn’s or circular needles to make them single pointed needles. Elastics wrapped around the end of the dpn’s or circular needles work just as well.

Tapestry needle – To sew the seam and work in ends.

How to Use the Needles

The rows work back and forth like every other flat thing you’ve knitted. The only difference with the hat is you are going to be adding stitches for each section and these additional stitches are going to make it round. To help you visualize what you’re going to make I’ve include the following graphic. The hat is divided into 5 sections, each divided with knit stitches. You work back and forth, from one needle to the next, until you have the correct number of stitches for the size hat you are making.

You don’t need to use 5 separate needles with one working needle. 2 or sometimes 3 sections will fit on one needle before the stitches become to tight to knit. Switch to a new needle when it suits you. There is no right or wrong time to add a new needle.

The stitches at the start of the hat need to be split between at least 2 needles with one additional working needle. The stitches quickly become too tight to work with a single straight needle.

You can also use 2 sets of circular needles when you get further along in the hat. Use each needle as a long and flexible single pointed needle. You can wrap an elastic band or use a stitch stopper at the end so the stitches don’t slide off the end.

Sizing

Every 3 sts equals approximately 1 inch. When making the child hat, you can make it slightly bigger by adding additional M1 sts to each section past what is written in Row 11. If you need an inch larger, when knitting the next increase row, evenly add one M1 st in 3 of the 5 sections (ie section 1, 3, and 5). If 2 inches, 2 M1 sts in 3 sections. The ribbing for the brim will work for every inch (or 3 M1 sts) you add.

If you need a smaller hat, when making Row 11, knit 3 M1 sts less in 3 sections. You’ll have a total of 52 sts.

If you are adjusting for size, only knit an additional 18 rows instead of 20.

If adding or subtracting M1 sts, the number of repeats and stitch counts for the child size for the brim will be off. Adjust accordingly.

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Gauge

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn

in stockinette

6 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

11 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Measurements for the sizes:

child = 18.5 inches (47 cm)

sm/med adult = 21.5 inches (54.5 cm)

lg/x-lg adult = 23.5 inches (60 cm)

Pattern is written as such:

Child (sm/med adult, lg/x-lg adult)

The Pattern

Cast on 5

Row 1: Inc in every st (10 sts)

You can watch the video below if you are uncertain how to make the increases.

Row 2: P across

Purl across for every even row [the WRONG side] until making the brim

Row 3: ◊ K M1 K ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 4 more times. (15 sts)

Click on the video below if you need help with the M1 stitch

Using the extra needles — *You’ll need to start using the extra needles.*
*The first 2 sections (*K M1 K* twice) are on the first needle with the remaining sections are on the second needle.*

Row 5: ○ K M1 K M1 K ○ Repeat from ○ to ○ 4 more times. (25 sts)

Row 7: ◘ K M1 K3 M1 K ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 4 more times. (35 sts)

You can use any combo of stitches that you like

Or maybe this combo

Row 9: ☺ K M1 K5 M1 K ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 4 more times. (45 sts)

Row 11: ♠ K M1 K5 M1 K ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 4 more times. (55 sts)

Stop here if making the child size bucket hat.

Move on to Row 16.

Row 13: ♪ K M1 K7 M1 K ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 4 more times. (65 sts)

Stop here if making the teen/small adult size bucket hat.

Move on to Row 16.

Row 15: ▲ K M1 K9 M1 K ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ 4 more times. (75 sts)

Row 16: P across

Row 17: K across

Row 18: P across

Repeat rows 17 and 18 for a total of 20 (22, 24) rows.

Make the Brim

Next Row: K3 (1, 2) ♥ K1 M1 K2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 16 (20, 23) times more. K1 (1, 1). 72 (86, 99 sts)

Next Row: P1 K1 ■ P3 K ■ Repeat from ■ to ■ 16 (20, 23) times more. P2 (0, 1).

Next Row: K2 (4, 1) ☼ Inc, K3 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 16 (19, 23) times more. Inc, K1. 90 (107, 124 sts)

✿ Next Row: P1 K2 ∞ P3 K2 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ 16 (19, 23) times more. P2 (3, 1) K0 (1, 0).

Next Row: K across

Next Row: Repeat row marked with ✿

Next Row: K across

Next Row: Repeat row marked with ✿

Cast off. Leave a longer length of 1 strand of your yarn to sew seam and draw the circle closed at the top of the head. Work in the remaining ends of yarn.

Hints and Tips

Where you split the stitches is up to you. If the stitches are getting difficult to knit, use a new needle from the set.

When separating the sections between needles, lines can form in your work where the needles meet. To avoid this, knit a few stitches off the next needle. When knitting on the other side, knit one or two stitches from the next needle. This alternates the stitches where the needles meet and can prevent the line from forming.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

Inc – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches

Posted on May 16, 2024May 20, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Easy to Crochet Ribbed Beanie – FREE Crocheted Hat Pattern

Looking for a more form fitting hat or toque to keep yourself or your loved ones a bit extra warm? This ribbed crochet beanie will certainly do that. Made with simple stitches and many photos to help you along, this crochet project is perfect for all levels of crocheters.

Due to the sideways, ribbed design, it is very forgiving in the sizing. It snugs in tightly to the head of the wearer and is very customizable. You can make it with or without extra folded edging across the forehead and ears. It all depends on how many stitches you chain at the start. Don’t worry I explain this all later on in the pattern.

If you aren’t a fan of crocheting, this was originally designed as a knitted beanie. It too, is done in an up and down fashion like this. If you would like to see that pattern, you can click this link – Winter Beanie Toque or Touque or Tuque with Vertical Stripes

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

If you would like to avoid the ads on this page or would like to print the pattern, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee from this website here – Easy to Crochet Beanie – Printable Crochet Hat Pattern, through my Etsy shop, on Ravelry or as Kindle or paperback on Amazon.

Become a Member

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn. One standard ball (278 yards or 255 m) will do but if you want other colour segments, of course it will be more skeins of yarn. This doesn’t include yarn for an optional pom pom.

Size 5 mm (H or size 8) crochet hook

Tapestry needle so work in ends

Gauge

In single crochet

17 sts = 4 inches or 10 cm

16 rows = 4 inches or 10 cm

The Pattern

To achieve the ribbing effect, all stitches are made in the BACK loop only! ALL stitches throughout the pattern are made in the back loop.

Ch 51. In second ch from hook:

*Row 1 – 4: 50 SC across in the back loop of every st

Row 5: 47 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).

Row 6: 48 SC, Ch 1. Turn.

Row 7: 42 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).

Row 8: 43 SC, Ch 1. Turn.

Row 9: 37 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).

Row 10: 38 SC, Ch 1.Turn.*

Repeat from * to * 7 more times (for a total of 8 sections). If you want to change colours, do so BEFORE the Ch 1. Then turn.

When repeating you need to pick up the stitches that were decreased.

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Finishing

Bring the edges together and slip stitch the seam together. Go through the back loop, and between the sts of the row 1 as you SL ST down the length of the toque. Turn the hat inside out when done the seam.

*Insert your hook in the back loop of the st.*
*Do **NOT** YO yet!*

*Insert your hook between the sts of the first row.*
*YO now and pull through.*

*Continue to slip the YO through so*
*there is a single loop on your hook.*

Leave a length of yarn about 8 inches long. Draw the ends of the rows together to close the hole at the top of the beanie. Add a pom pom if you like.

Alternate Pattern for ANY Length

If you would like to make a larger folded edge over the forehead and ears, you can chain more sts to make it as long as you want. You can also have no folded edge. For this, chain less stitches. How many chains all depends on what you’re looking to accomplish and will take some trial and error. Of course, if you are doing this, the st counts will be off.

Another way to write the pattern for any number of sts is as follows.

*Row 1 – 4: SC across in the back loop of every stitch

Row 5: SC until there is 3 sts remaining. HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).

Row 6: SC to the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn.

Row 7: SC until there are 6 sts unworked of the previous row (doesn’t include sts from previous row). HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn

Row 8: SC to the end of the row., Ch 1. Turn.

Row 9: SC until there are 6 sts unworked of the previous row (doesn’t include sts from previous rows). HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn

Row 10: SC to the end of the row., Ch 1.Turn.*

Repeat from * to * 7 more times (for a total of 8 sections). If you want to change colours, do so BEFORE the Ch 1. Then turn.

Leave a length of yarn about 8 inches long. Draw the ends of the rows together to close the hole at the top of the beanie. Add a pom pom if you like.

Abbreviations

SC – single crochet

HDC – half double crochet

YO – yarn over

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Hints and Tips

If you would like to alternate colours, anything that goes evenly into 8 will work; any 2 or 4 colours.

Speaking of colours, this design works particularly well with ombre, variegated and self striping yarns.

I’m always a fan of these yarns, but find that there aren’t many patterns where I can use them.

If you would like to make it fit child sized heads, you have a couple of options. You can either use a smaller size hook so there are more stitches per inch/cm. The other option is to make less sections and ch fewer sts when starting. Changes such as these are beyond what I can calculate for so I can’t help you much with that. It will be trial and error on your part.

Posted on May 5, 2024May 5, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Knit Flat Owl Beanie, Scarf and Fingerless Glove Collection

Owl beanie, scarf and fingerless gloves - Knit flat on 2 needles

The knitted owl hat, scarf and mitt collection is now available and you have a few options to choose from. There is the ad-supported, free web versions, the printable 3 patterns in one PDF, and last but not least, the paperback and Kindle versions are now on Amazon! Keep scrolling down the page to see all the options to choose from.

These patterns use very basic stitches, making it a great pattern collection for newbies and super quick for those with more experience. The patterns themselves only involve the knit and purl stitch, k2tog, and cabling. I added scannable QR codes to how-to videos to help you along if you are a new knitter or just need a bit of extra help with how to do cable stitches.

If you would like to get the paperback, you can find it on Amazon. Make sure that you select your country so if you are a Prime Member on Amazon, shipping is included in the final price.

The print and Kindle versions are only in English. Other language are not available.

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

If you’d prefer to print the 3 pattern collection yourself, there are a couple options for you also. You can buy the printable PDF from my Etsy shop here:

Owl Knitting Patterns – Owls Scarf Beanie Hat Toque Mitts Gloves Wrist Warmers – 3 Pattern Owl Collection

Or from my website here:

Owls Scarf, Beanie and Fingerless Gloves Knitting Pattern Collection

The patterns still exist in their ad-supported, free read-only versions on the website. You can find these at the following pages:

How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

How to Knit a Scarf – with OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

If you don’t want all of the patterns (I don’t know why you wouldn’t, but I won’t judge 😉) you can also buy individual patterns here on my website Knit Owl Beanie Hat, Knitted Owl Fingerless Gloves, and Knit Owl Scarf.

and in my Etsy shop: Knit Owl Beanie Hat, Knitted Owl Fingerless Gloves, and Knit Owl Scarf.

I hope you enjoy them all in whatever way you prefer.

Posted on April 24, 2024May 1, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Sunny Days Flower Bucket Hat – FREE Crochet Pattern

I decided to make a new style of bucket hat when I became enamoured with the many granny square hats I was seeing online. While I appreciate the basic granny square, I felt I needed to jazz up the square a bit. I found a very basic flat flower, which I liked, but I knew I could make it a bit nicer with a textured flower and more leaves.

While I wouldn’t say that this is a beginner pattern, I’ve supplied numerous photos to show you how to make all of the more complicated parts.

The hat itself is made to fit adults and is a one size fits most. It’s not too small to fit a larger head (that would be someone like me) but tight enough to be a roomy, easy fit for those with an average size head.out of 100% cotton yarn for comfort, but you can use whatever you prefer, or have on hand.

If you are looking for photos to help you along with the granny square, I made a separate post that will show you how with photos. I didn’t add them here because there are already so many photos, it would make for a behemoth of a post. It’s easier to just do 2. It makes it less of a burden on the server to separate them into different posts. To see the photos along with the written instructions, click this link – Flower and Leaves Granny Square – Easy Crochet Pattern

Use the Table of Contents tab on the left to easily navigate through the pattern and avoid photos if you don’t need them.

If you decide to purchase the downloadable PDF or the Kindle or paperback version on Amazon, the photos for everything ARE included in the single publication. If you want the printable copy you can buy it on this website here – Sunny Days Granny Square Bucket Hat, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry and the aforementioned, Amazon in both a Kindle and Paperback versions. If ordering the paperback, make sure you select the correct country. It’s set to USA by default.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That link is to a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

Another way to support my work is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area.

Become a Member

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Things You Need

4 colours of worsted weight yarn (center, flower, leaves and hat body and brim). I used 100% cotton yarn for breathability in hot temperatures but you can use anything. You will need at least 2 of the smaller balls of cotton yarn for the main colour. I used the yarn that comes in the large balls of cotton yarn for my main colour.

3.5 mm (size E or 4) crochet hook

Stitch markers – spare pieces of yarn will work.

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

Gauge

In DC – double crochet

10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

5 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Each square measures approximately 12 cm (4.75 inches) wide.

The Granny Square (make 5)

With your choice of center colour,

Ch 2 making first chain large enough to fit the next 8 sts.

Round 1

8 HDC. Join with sl st at the top of the first ch. Break yarn.

To see the photos along with the written instructions, click this link – Flower and Leaves Granny Square – Easy Crochet Pattern

Round 2

With your choice of flower petal colour,

In any HDC, join with sl st. Ch 1 and make it into a large loop. Pull up a large loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO draw through all the loops ion your hook. Ch 2. ♠ In the next HDC, *Pull up a loop. YO* Repeat from * to * 3 times more (total of 4 large loops). Draw through all loops on your hook. Ch 2 ♠ Repeat form ♠ to ♠ around for a total of 8 petals. Join with sl st to the first ch 1 of the first petal. Break yarn. Tie off.

Round 3

With your choice of leaf colour,

Join with sl st in any Ch 2 space. Ch 1 ♣ YO. Draw up a loop as if to make a DC. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on your hook unworked.♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ one more time. YO and draw through the all loops on your hook. (Small middle leaf complete). ▲ Ch 4.. In the next Ch 2 space, ♥ ◘ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop as before. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.◘Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 more times. YO and draw through all 4 loops on your hook. ♥ (1^st corner leaf made). Ch 5. Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 1 time staying in the same Ch 5 space of the leaf just made. (2^nd corner leaf made). Ch 4. In the next Ch 2 space, Repeat from ♣ to ♣ but repeat 3 times total. (Small middle leaf made).▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ ending with last 2 corner leaves. Ch 4. Join with sl st to the top of 1^st small middle leaf. Break yarn. Tie off.

Round 4

With your choice of edging colour,

Join with sl st in the DC of any small middle leaf, Ch 2. ♫ In the next Ch 4 space, (DC, HDC, SC). SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 5 corner space, 5 SC, SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 4 space (SC, HDC, DC) DC in the next 2 sts. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ ending with 1 DC in the next st. Join with sl st in the top of the starting Ch 2.

Round 5

Working evenly over the sts unless otherwise stated, 6 SC, 3 SC in the corner st, ☼ 16 SC, 3 SC in the corner st. ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 2 more times. 8 SC. Join with sl st in starting SC. Break yarn. Tie off.

Make 4 more granny squares. Join squares together to make a circle. You can sew them together or use a sl st along the edges. Make the seam from middle corner SC to the middle corner SC.

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The Hat Top

Round 1

With the RIGHT side of the circle facing you, and on either edge, count back 4 sts from any joining seam. Join yarn with a sl st, SC, HDC, DC. Place a st marker at the seam. 18 DC *2DCtog twice. 16 DC. Place st marker on the seam* Repeat from * to * around to the 2 sts before the st marker. Do NOT join! You will now work continuously around the top of the hat.

Round 2 and beyond

☺ 2DCtog on each side of the st marker. DC to the 2 sts before the st marker. ☺. Repeat around from ☺ to ☺ until there are no sts between the 2DCtog. Make 2DCtog until there are 6 sts left. HDC over 2 sts. (Pull up loop in next 2 sts. YO and draw through all 3 loops on your hook). Join with a sl st in the next st. Break yarn. Tie off. Work in end.

Hat Brim

Round 1

With the RIGHT side of the hat facing you, count back 4 sts from any joining seam. SC, HDC, DC. Place a st marker at the seam. DC around to st marker. Do NOT join but work in continuous rounds.

Round 2

◊ 4 DC 2DC in next st. ◊ Repeat around from ◊ to ◊ to the st marker.

Round 3

8 DC, 2 DC in next st. ♪ 5 DC 2DC in next st. ♪ Repeat around from ♪ to ♪ to the st marker. 2 DC in last st. (don’t worry if your off by a few sts).

Round 4

DC around to the st marker. HDC, SC, sl st in the next st to join. Ch 1. Turn.

Round 5

With the WRONG side facing you, SC around to st marker. Join with sl st in Ch 1. Break yarn. Tie off. Work in ends.

Abbreviations

SC – single crochet

DC – double crochet

HDC – half double crochet

2DCtog – crochet 2 sts together. Do NOT YO. Pull up a loop in the next st as if to make a SC. Pull up a loop in the next st. YO. Draw through 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the 2 loops on your hook. Decrease made. 2 stitches are now crocheted together.

YO – yarn over

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Hints and Tips

If counts are off for round 5, SC as many sts as you need to get to the middle st of the corner. Make sure the 3 sts in one st are always in the middle st.

There are a lot of ends when you make a multi-coloured granny square. Work the ends in as you crochet. Hold your yarn to the back of your work and catch the end over a few sts while you crochet. There are lots of great videos online that can show how.

If you would like a wider brim on your hat, DC with increases every other row around. End one row of DC without increases and a row of SC.

If the hat is too big or too small, you can always switch up the hook size. Use a smaller hook to make it smaller, and a larger hook for a bigger one. I wouldn’t add or take away a square as they are quite large and will make a big difference in the size. A larger size hook will also make the brim less stiff and more floppy. Please note I can’t help you with sizing if you’ve changed the hook size.

Posted on April 23, 2024April 26, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Flower and Leaves Granny Square – Easy Crochet Pattern

I decided to make a new style of bucket hat when I became enamoured with the many granny square hats I was seeing online. While I appreciate the basic granny square, I felt I needed to jazz up the square a bit. While this square is used in the hat, this particular pattern is for the square only.

What can you do with a square? Pretty much anything. A square can be used as a square of course, like a coaster. It’s when you start adding those squares together that you really can do more. Attached them together to make a scarf, more squares to make a larger square for a pillow. Add a lot of squares and make an afghan. Put them together in creative ways to make the body and sleeves of a sweater, or diagonally and make a bag. Add extra stitches to make a hat, more stitches on one side to make a small purse. It really is only limited by imagination.

If you would like to make the bucket, you can find the pattern here – Sunny Days Flower Bucket Hat.

Use the Table of Contents tab on the left to go to the next round without scrolling past the photos.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That link is to a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

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If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Unlike most of my patterns, this one is NOT available as a printable version, yet. I’m planning on developing a collection of granny squares I’m going to make available. And I have a hat pattern I’m working on where this square will be added in full. But for now, you can scroll along and make the square as you go.

Things You Need

4 colours of worsted weight yarn (center, flower, leaves and border)

3.5 mm (size E or 4) crochet hook

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

Gauge

In DC – double crochet

10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

5 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Each square measures approximately 12 cm (4.75 inches) wide.

This is a fairly densely packed square with more sts per inch. It’s not very “floppy” and is more stiff. If you are wanting more flexibility in your final project, like a blanket, use a larger hook, like a 5 mm (Size H or 6) or so.

If you are making the hat pattern (coming soon!) you’ll need 5 squares.

The Pattern

With your choice of center colour,

Ch 2 making first chain large enough to fit the next 8 sts.

Round 1

8 HDC. Join with sl st at the top of the first ch. Break yarn.

Round 2

With your choice of flower petal colour,

Pattern continues after photos. Use the Table of Contents tab on the left to go to the next round without scrolling past the photos.

Round 3

With your choice of leaf colour,

Round 4

With your choice of edging colour,

Round 5

Working evenly over the sts unless otherwise stated Ch 3, 6 DC, 3 DC in the corner st, ☼ 16 DC, 3 DC in the corner st. ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 2 more times. 8 DC. Join with sl st in starting Ch 3. Break yarn. Tie off.

Please note: You can substitute SC for the DC in round 5. Photos of the granny square show the squares with DC edging. If using SC don’t Ch 3.

Abbreviations

SC – single crochet

DC – double crochet

HDC – half double crochet

YO – yarn over

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Hints and Tips

If counts are off for round 5, DC as many sts as you need to get to the middle st of the corner (I marked it in the photo). Make sure the 3 sts in one st are always in the middle st.

There are a lot of ends when you make a multi-coloured granny square. To help with things, hold your yarn to the back of your work and catch the end over a few sts while you crochet. There are lots of great videos online that can show how.

The yellow square has an additional SC border.

Posted on April 9, 2024September 8, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

These colourful, cuffed owl fingerless mitts are made to match my very popular Owl Beanie and Owl Scarf, also knit flat on two needles. You can click the links if you would like to make either one; or both 😉. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page.

I’ve made these owl wrist warmers similar to my original knit flat owl half gloves but with this version, they are knit from the fingers to the wrist cuff. The owls are made from feet to head, matching the aforementioned hat and scarf. There is a slight difference with the appearance of the owls when made from head to feet and I couldn’t live with that. Once you see it you can’t not see it, if you know what I mean.

And since I was doing a redesign, I figured I should make the cuffs match. So I did. I did two versions of the glove. One with a rolled cuff edge (blue and brown) and one without (green). It is clearly marked in the pattern where to stop knitting and cast off depending on the edging you want. And speaking of the final appearance of the granny gloves, there is no reason that these gloves have to match anything. You can also knit them in a single colour. It really is up to you and what look you are after.

To make the thumb gusset blend as much as possible and match on both sides of the thumb, there are different ways to knit and purl the stitches together. It changes whether it is on the left or the right side of the thumb. It is noted how to knit and purl the stitches in the pattern. I’ve also added links to a helpful how-to video to show you how. You don’t have to make the stitches the way I did, but it gives a much better overall look. There’s more about this in the Hints and Tips section.

If casting on the 13 stitches for the thumb or picking up stitches is confusing for you, there is also a video to help you with that too. The link is after the Hints and Tips section.

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. The Amazon link goes to the US store. If ordering the paperback, make sure you pick the region where you live!

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

4 – 8 mm flat back cabochons or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizing

Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.

To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, The gloves will stretch a bit as the stitches relax.

Right Hand

Cast on 34 sts

◊ Row 1: K across

Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)

To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting.

Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)

Row 12: P5 K1 P8 K1 P19

Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts K6 C4B C4F K6

If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos below:

Row 14: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P32

Row 15: K35 P4 K8

Row 16: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P14

If you need some extra help with making these stitches, you can click this link How to P2tog and K2tog to Make the Gusset or watch the video below

Row 17: K33 P4 K8

Row 18: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P30

Row 19: K14 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K8 P4 K8

This is the same video as above but automatically starts at the how to K2tog section.

Row 20: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P28

Row 21: K31 P4 K8

Row 22: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P14.

Row 23: K27 C4B C4F K6

Row 24: P5 K1 P8 K1 P26

Row 25: K14 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K20

Row 26: P5 K1 P8 K1 P24

Row 27: K across

Row 28: P5 K1 P8 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P14

Row 29: K across

Row 30: P5 K1 P8 K1 P22

Row 31: K14 K3tog (from left to right) K6 C4B C4F K6

Row 32: P5 K1 P8 K1 P20

(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)

Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)

Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.

☺ Row39: K across

Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.

Continue with the rest of the pattern if you would like a rolled edge to match the edging of the owl beanie hat. If you don’t like the rolled edge, cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.

◘ Row 49: K across

Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.

Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.

Thumb

With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.

Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)

Row 5: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1

Row 6: K across

Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1

Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.

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Left Hand

Cast on 34 sts

◊ Row 1: K across

Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)

Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)

Row 12: P19 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 13: K6 C4B C4F K6 Cast on 13 sts K14

Row 14: P32 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 15: K8 P4 K35

Row 16: P14 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 17: K8 P4 K33

Row 18: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 19: K8 P4 K8 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K14

Row 20: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 21: K8 P4 K31

Row 22: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 23: K6 C4B C4F K27

Row 24: P26 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 25: K20 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K14

Row 26: P24 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 27: K across

Row 28: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P5 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 29: K across

Row 30: P22 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 31: K6 C4B C4F K6 K3tog (from left to right) K14

Row 32: P20 K1 P8 K1 P5

(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)

Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)

Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.

☺ Row39: K across

Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.

◘ Row 49: K across

Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.

Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.

Thumb

With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.

Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)

Row 5: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1

Row 6: K across

Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1

Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.

Hints and Tips

If you don’t P2tog and K2tog as indicated in the pattern, you’ll end up with one very defined line on one side of the thumb gusset, and a much less refined edge on the other. I tried many combos to make the side of the gusset match. Making the stitches as indicated in the pattern allow for this.

This photo is what the thumb gusset will look like if you knit and purl the stitches without following the instructions.

You don’t need to add the extra garter and ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.

You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.

Watch the Helpful Thumb Video

If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb The video is for a different fingerless glove style, but is a very similar technique.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

P2tog – purl 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 stitches together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

Posted on March 22, 2024July 23, 2024 by admin — 4 Comments

How to Knit a Scarf – with OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knitted scarf with owls - free knitting pattern

Owls seem to hold a draw for a lot of people, myself included. I think there are as many reasons as there are people as to why this happens.

This scarf is made to match my very popular Owl Beanie; also knit flat on two needles. If you can make the scarf, I guarantee that you will be able to make the owl toque, if you haven’t already 😉 You can read that pattern for free on my website here: Knit a Beanie – with OWLS!

And in case you haven’t found it yet, there is also a pattern for the matching owl fingerless gloves! These are also knit flat on 2 needles and are seamed along the side of hand along the little finger side. If you would like to read that pattern, you can find it here – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!

You may be wondering why there is a seam to sew and why this isn’t made in one piece. The owls look a bit different when you make cables from the top (head to feet) and from the bottom (feet to head). Also, the band on the end needs to change from knit stitches (garter) to purl stitches. It’s just all around more complicated than it needs to be. Besides, the seam is nearly invisible and less effort than going through the effort of trying to make the ends match if made in one piece. Trust me. I did try to make it one piece. I even wrote it down as I made it. One out of 10. Do not recommend.

If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Knit Owl Scarf – Knit Flat on 2 Straight Needles, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, and the Kindle version is available on Amazon.

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – either complimentary colours or single colour. How much depends on how long you want to make the scarf and if you want fringe.

5 mm (Size 8 US) single pointed knitting needles

4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed needles (optional but strongly suggested)

Cable needle

Crochet hook (for fringe. Size doesn’t matter as long as you can use it for yarn)

Tapestry needle to sew seam and work in ends

Gauge

In stockinette

9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Gauge isn’t really important, but if you are making the beanie or hat to match, you’ll want the gauge to be the same as the hat.

The scarf is one size fits all.

The Pattern

Cast on 40 sts with the 4 mm needles (you don’t have to use the smaller needles but it helps keep the starting edge from splaying out wider than the scarf).

♠ Row 1: Knit (If using the smaller size needles, switch to the 5 mm needles. Only knit the 1^st row with the smaller size needles. All subsequent repeats are done with the size 5 mm needle).

Row 2: (K1 P2) until 1 st remains. K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)

To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can click that link or watch tis video.

Row 7-11: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)

Row 12 ♦ K1 P2 K1 P8 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 more times.. K1 P2 K1

Row 13: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4

If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos.

Row 14: ♥ K1 P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 more times. K1 P2 K1

Row 15 K6 ☺ P4 K8 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once. P4 K6

Row 16: As row 14

Row 17: As row 15

Row 18: As row 14

Row 19: As row 15

Row 20: As row 14

Row 21: As row 15

Row 22: As row 14

Row 23: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4

Row 24: ♦ K1 P2 K1 P8 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 more times.. K1 P2 K1

Row 25: Knit

Row 26: As row 24

Row 27: Knit

Row 28: As row 24

Row 29: Knit

Row 30: As row 24

Row 31: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4

Row 32: as row 24 (Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)

Row 33 – 36: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)

▲ ♠ Row 37: Knit

Row 38: (K1 P2) until 1 st remains. K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows.

Row 47 – 50: Knit. ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ as many times as you want. REMEMBER – make it HALF as long as you want the final scarf. See further suggestions in the Hints and Tips section.

When making the last repeat finish with Row 48. Cast of on the RIGHT side.

Cast off.

Make another half to match.

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Sewing the Seam

Sew the seam to join the two halves. When joining leave a length of yarn on one of the halves to use to sew this seam.

When making the seam, pull the sides together so they are snug but not tight. There is a bit of slack naturally between the rows of garter stitch. You want to mimic this as closely as possible.

To join the ends, you’ll work between the cast off edge and row 48. You can see in the photo some previously joined stitches. Note where the yarn end is coming out.

With your tapestry needle, pick up the bar that is between the bump of the stitch and the cast off row.

Pull snug.

Pick up the bar that is between the cast off row and the bump of the stitch.

Continue down the length of the seam. It should look like the other garter bands on the scarf. You can pull the two ends apart a bit to get the stitches to even out the tension along the seam.

Making the Fringe

This is optional. If you are not a fringe person, don’t add a fringe. You may prefer a different style of fringe than what I did. Whatever you prefer is perfect.

When you switched from the smaller 4 mm needles to the larger, there became a bend at the end. Along that bend are stitches that run along the bottom. These are perfect for adding the fringe.

I preferred to make the fringe with one strand drawn through. You may want more strands and alternate with every other stitch. There are a lot of fringe tutorials and variations online that you may like more. It’s worth taking a look. Regardless, I’ve provided the instructions to show you how I made my fringe.

Cut lengths of yarn for twice the length you want your fringe. Insert your crochet hook in one stitch from the wrong side to the front. Fold one length of yarn in half. Catch with the crochet hook and pull part way through the stitch.

Catch the 2 ends of the yarn and pull through the loop on your hook. Pull the ends snug.

Repeat down the length of the edge.

Hints and Tips

Because this is meant to be flat you’ll need to block or press it. Use your method of preference. A few tips on pressing – make a test piece to see how your yarn will react and adjust accordingly. I used acrylic yarns for my demo pieces. I made sure my iron was set to a low temperature. I then used a spray bottle to wet it on the WRONG side. I then pressed carefully on the WRONG side. Check the front as you press to make sure it isn’t flattening the stitches more than you want.

Your scarf halves don’t have to be the same length. If you know there is a particular way you want to wear it, such as very long, wrapped once around your neck and the ends hanging down, you may want the seam on one side instead of the middle, right in the front.

I made my brown scarf as an equal divide. I repeated from ▲ to ▲ 12 times more for a total of 13 sections. It’s long enough to wrap around my neck and dangle on each side just like in the photo.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

Posted on March 13, 2024March 16, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Easy To Knit Fingerless Gloves – Knit Flat On Straight Needles

For this version of my fingerless gloves, I’m doing something different. Instead of starting at the cuff, I’m starting at the fingers and working to the cuff. Why? Because I’m starting to design gloves with 3D animals, characters, figures, designs, etc. Sometimes these figures can only be made from the bottom up and to do this, I needed to design a basic fingerless glove pattern. Because most of the figures are done with stockinette stitches, I wanted the figures to stand out even more. So, I designed the glove to be done with a garter stitch to contrast with the stockinette.

Whew! That was a lot of extra info you probably didn’t want. But now that you know the plan, you can check out my website to see when I start publishing the new gloves. It could be right away. It could be 6 months. We’ll see how it goes… (FYI I already did 😊 You can check out the hippo fingerless gloves by clicking the link – Super Cute Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mitts – FREE Knitting Pattern.

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Basic Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy 👈🏼 (40% off on Etsy until the end of March). The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. If a link isn’t working I either haven’t formatted and published it on that retailer, I am waiting for approval, or I forgot to come back and add the link.

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Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. The seam runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches.

Things You Need

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.

Size 4 mm (size 6 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Gauge

In garter stitch

20 rows = 5 cm or 2.5 inches

9 sts = 5 cm or 2.5 inches

To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). I don’t usually design extra large gloves, but you’re smart. You can extrapolate from the sizes I’ve given. Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.

RIGHT Hand

Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K12 (14, 16, 18) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts. Click this link if you need help with casting on.

Row 14 – 16: Knit across

Row 17: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K9 (9, 11, 11,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 42 (45, 50, 53) sts

Row 18 – 20: Knit across

Row 21: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K7 (7, 9, 9,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 40 (43, 48, 51) sts

Row 22 – 24: Knit across

Row 25: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K5 (5, 7, 7,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 38 (41, 46, 49) sts

Row 26 – 28: Knit across

Row 29: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K3 (3, 5, 5,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 36 (39, 44, 47) sts

Row 30 – 32: Knit across

Row 33: K12 (14, 16, 18) K2tog K1 (1, 3, 3,) K2tog K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 42, 45) sts

Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥

Row 34 – 36: Knit across

For the LARGE and X-LARGE

Next row: K0 (0, 16, 18) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts )

♥ Next 13 rows: K across

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

With the RIGHT side facing

Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat for a total of 10 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch the video below or click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

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LEFT Hand

Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K19 (20, 21, 22) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts Click this link if you need help with casting on.

Row 14 – 16: Knit across

Row 17: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K9 (9, 11, 11,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 42 (45, 50, 53) sts

Row 18 – 20: Knit across

Row 21: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K7 (7, 9, 9,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 40 (43, 48, 51) sts

Row 22 – 24: Knit across

Row 25: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K5 (5, 7, 7,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 38 (41, 46, 49) sts

Row 26 – 28: Knit across

Row 29: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K3 (3, 5, 5,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 36 (39, 44, 47) sts

Row 30 – 32: Knit across

Row 33: K19 (20, 21, 22) K2tog K1 (1, 3, 3,) K2tog K12 (14, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 42, 45) sts

Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥

Row 34 – 36: Knit across

For the LARGE and X-LARGE

Next row: K0 (0, 21, 22) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts )

♥ Next 13 rows: K across

If you want to switch colours, do so now.

With the RIGHT side facing

Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat for a total of 10 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

Hints and Tips

If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥ If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.

If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are don with the K1 P2 ribbing sections.

You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.

Watch the Helpful Video

If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Posted on March 7, 2024June 17, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knit Owl Beanie Hat - FREE Knitting Pattern

I really do like how well the owl motif worked on this hat! And surprisingly didn’t take much figuring or math once I wrote out the Basic Knit Flat Beanie. I did have to play around with how many rows tall to make the body and head. I didn’t figure it would stretch as much as it does but I’m happy with the final proportions.

And in case you haven’t found it on the website yet, I have a pair of fingerless gloves that have the same owl motif. There is the knit flat owl gloves that were designed specifically to match this beanie. There is also owl gloves that are knit in the round. The cuffs aren’t a perfect match but are seamless.

And happy day! The matching scarf pattern is done ☺️ If you would like to get started on the entire matching set, you can read the free, ad supported knitted scarf pattern here: How to Knit a Scarf – with OWLS! FREE Knitting Pattern

And for the last announcement, there is also a bucket hat with owls you can make! You can wear your owls all year long. 🦉If you would like to make the summer version with a brim, click this link – Knit Flat Bucket Hat – with OWLS! Free Knitting Pattern

This owl hat knit pattern is a fairly easy project to make if you have some knitting experience. I designed it to be flat, knit on 2 straight needles so more people would be comfortable in making it. Though the cabling can look intimidating, it really isn’t. I have videos on YouTube that will show you how if you’ve never done it before. I embedded videos in the pattern to help you along.

The choice of colour is yours as always. I included where to change colours if you would like to make one with 3 colours like I did for the brown and beige version I made. If you’re making a solid colour toque, you can ignore the notifications in the pattern.

As far as the use of a pom pom on the top… Some love it, some hate it. I know for myself, if I have to put my hood up, I hate them, but aesthetically, they do have their charms NGL. I have more information in the Hints and Tips section about the pom pom on the white and blue beanie.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)

5 mm (Size 8 US) single pointed knitting needles

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

14 or 16 buttons or jewels for eyes (see Hints and Tips)

Pom pom – you can make or buy these, or not use one at all.

Gauge

In stockinette

9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizes are written as such:

S-M (L-XL)

Small and medium = 21 inches (53 cm) around

Large and Extra large = 24.5 inches (62 cm) around

Uses about 160 meters or 180 yards. Does NOT include pom-pom.

This pattern makes either 7 or 8 owls around. Each owl motif is about 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) wide if you follow the gauge given. You can adjust your stitches accordingly to make larger or smaller sizes than what I’ve given. Each owl motif uses 12 stitches. So, if you wanted it smaller by one owl cast on 74 sts (86 – 12 = 74)

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Beanie Hat. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

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The Pattern

Cast on 86 (98) sts

♠ Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)

To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can click that link or watch the video here.

Row 11-15: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 15 if desired.)

Row 16: ♦ P2 K1 P8 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 2 sts. P2

Row 17: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2

If you don’t know how to cable you can watch these videos to show you how.

Row 18: ♥ P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ to the last 2 sts. P2

Row 19: K5 ☺ P4 K8 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to☺ 5 (6) times more. P4 K5

Row 20: As row 18

Row 21: As row 19

Row 22: As row 18

Row 23: As row 19

Row 24: As row 18

Row 25: As row 19

Row 26: As row 18

Row 27: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2

Row 28: ♦ P2 K1 P8 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 2 sts. P2.

Row 29: Knit

Row 30: As row 28

Row 31: Knit

Row 32: As row 28

Row 33: Knit

Row 34: As row 28

Row 35: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2

Row 36: as row 28 (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)

Row 37 – 40: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 41 if desired.)

▲ Row 41: Knit

Row 42: ◘ P2 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ tot he last 2 sts. P2 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ for a total

of 22 (26) rows.

Next row: ♣ K2tog K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2tog

Next row: ◘ P1 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ to the last st. P1

Next row: K2tog to the end of the row.

Next row: P across

Next row: K2tog to the last st. K1

Next row: P across

Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam using the blanket stitch. Add a pom-pom to the top if you like.

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Hints and Tips

I used repurposed yarn for the pom pom on the white toque with the blue banding. Unraveling the slippers I had originally made, it left the wool in the crinkly state that occurs. I haven’t washed it so I don’t know if the fluffy/fuzzy look will stay, but I certainly do like the effect it gave to the final pom pom.

If you are using multiple colours for your toque, I suggest you Work in the Ends While You Knit. It saves you time in the long run. You can either click the link or take a photo of the QR code below to learn how.

Sew the seam using a blanket stitch to make it as invisible as possible. I added enough stitches along the sides so you can do this.

You can make the beanie fit closer to the crown of the head by not doing as many repeats of rows 41 and 42. You can also make it longer (taller and floppy) by doing more.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

Posted on February 14, 2024February 14, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

How to Crochet – Fans Bracelet Pattern – FREE Crochet Pattern

I do loves me a good crocheted bracelet. Don’t ask me why…

This is a fairly simple bracelet to make and doesn’t involve any complicated or unusual stitches. If you have successfully completed other crocheted projects, this should be easy for you to make.

If you are looking to make some extra cash and sell these, which I’m always cool with btw, the cost to make these is next to nothing. You can purchase crochet cotton thread for very reasonable costs, and reuse buttons you’ve collected, found at second hand stores, or even for cheap at many big box stores.

If you’d prefer to download an ad free version of this pattern instead of reading it online, you can get it here Crocheted Fans Bracelet. This crochet pattern is also available for download from my Etsy Shop and Ravelry if you are more comfortable using those retailers. If you like crocheted jewelry as much as I do, I have a number of other jewelry patterns, free and for sale, available.

If you are enjoying the free patterns and would like to see more, then please share my work social media! Those handy little icons down there ?? you do it easily and help me so much ?. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

Things you need:

1 ball of crochet cotton thread (Main colour)

1 ball complimentary colour of crochet cotton thread (accent colour or whatever you’d like the edging to be).

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook.

A pretty button

Gauge:

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. This pattern can be made as long as you like and you can easily adjust the length to what you want when you’re making it. Each fan adds approximately 3/16″ or 0.5 cm. Generally speaking, I make my bracelets approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length making 27 fans total

The 2 additional rounds added make it about 1/2 inch longer, so if you need a specific length keep that in mind. Another point to remember, is it will stretch a bit longer as the stitches relax over time or if you press it with an iron.

The Pattern:

Chain 4.

Row 1: With main colour of thread, 2dc in 1^st ch. Ch2, 3dc in 1^st ch of original ch 4 again. Ch3. Turn.

Row 2: 3dc in ch2 space of previous row. Ch2. 3Dc in ch2 space. Tc in the top of the ch3 of previous round. Ch3. Turn.

Repeat row 2 until work measures the desired length. Break thread.

Round 1: You’ll now be working in rounds going around the bracelet. With the start of the bracelet on your right and the last fan you made on your left and with the complimentary colour of thread, join with a sl st in any ch3 or tc space (counts as a dc). Ch2, dc in same space. *Dc in the top of the ch3 or tr of the fan (see photo A). 2 dc in next ch3 or tc space.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet ending with the 2 dc in the space ch3 or tc space. Dc in the top of each dc of fan. 5dc in the ch2 space of fan. Dc in the top of each dc. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Make 3 dc along the length of the dc or ch3 of the original fan (see photo B). 5Dc in the ch1 in the base of the original fan. Make 3 dc along the length of the dc or ch3 of the original fan. Repeat from * to * until at the beginning ch2 of this round. Join with sl st to the top of the 2^nd chain. Break thread.

Photo A:

Photo B:

Round 2: Start with the first fan on your right and the last fan you made on your left. With the main colour of thread, and working in the back loop of each dc, join thread in back loop of any dc of previous round along the length. Ch1, sc in same st as join. Sc in each dc down the length to the 1^st dc of the 5dc of the previous round. 2sc in the first dc of the 5 dc, sc in the next dc. Sc in the 3^rd dc, ch10 (or how many you need to go around your button), sl st in the sc you just made. Sc in the 3^rd dc again. Sc in the next dc. 2sc in the next dc. Sc in each dc down the length of the bracelet to the 1^st dc of the 5dc of the previous round. 2sc in the 1^st dc of the 5dc, sc in the next st. 3sc in the middle dc of the 5dc. Sc in the next st. 2sc in the next st. Sc in each dc until reaching the 1^st sc of round. Join with sl st to first sc. Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite the loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

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Hints and Tips:

No matter what, don’t stretch out the fan portion before you are finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making the bracelet. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches. Position the joins so there aren’t too many ends in one area.

You can use 1 to 3 colours to make this bracelet. I’ve included an example above with 3 colours. One colour works particularly well to highlight a button.

When making the loop to secure the bracelet, chain as many stitches as you think you may need. Sl st to the sc and pass the button through the loop. If it is too small, undo the sl st and add more chains. If too long, undo the sl st and take some stitches out. It’s easier to check now than later.

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

tc – treble (or triple) crochet

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.

If you love this pattern, be sure to check out my other bracelet patterns: Crocheted Waves Bracelet.

Like all my patterns, you are allowed to sell or give away any of the bracelets that you make, but you are not permitted to redistribute this pattern in any way.

Posted on February 13, 2024March 1, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Basic Knit Flat Beanie or Toque – FREE Hat Knitting Pattern for Straight Needles

easy knitting pattern beanie - knit on straight needles

I have wandered into the vastness of toque and/or beanie design once before. I designed the previous rendition a bit differently than the standard touque and used short rows. If you’re so inclined you can click this link to see the pattern – Winter Beanie Toque or Touque or Tuque with Vertical Stripes.

The reason for this very basic, knit flat on 2 needles design is because I want to add my spider, hippo and owl motifs to a toque. But to do that, I needed to create the base design to get the fit and style right. FYI I’m already working on the owls now that this knitting design is complete. It’s coming along swimmingly btw ☺.

I’ve added some notes to the end of the pattern to help you along if you want to do some basic modifications to the beanie like make it longer, bigger, smaller. Head size and taste varies from person to person and this may need a bit of tweaking to fit want you need or want.

I added links to how-to videos to help you along if you are a new knitter or just need a bit of extra help. (Click the link in the pattern to open a new window and watch. You won’t lose this page.) This pattern uses very basic stitches and has an easy seam to sew at the end making it a great pattern for newbies and super quick for those with more experience.

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Basic Knit Flat Beanie. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The Kindle version is also on Amazon.

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)

US Size 8 (5 mm) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).

Tapestry needle to sew up seams

Pom-pom is optional (I found mine on Amazon but you can make yarn ones too).

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

9 sts – 5 cm (2″)

13 rows – 5 cm (2”)

Sizes are written as such:

S-M (L-XL)

Small and medium = 21.5 inches (55 cm) around

Large and Extra large = 23.5 inches (60 cm) around

The Pattern

Cast on 86 (92)

♠ Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows.

♥ Row 11: K across

Row 12: ♦ P2 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last 2 sts. P2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ for a total of 44 (48) rows.

Next row: ♣ K2tog K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2tog

Next row: ◘ P1 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ to the last st. P1

Next row: ☺ K1 K2tog ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the end of the row.

Next row: P across

Next row: K2tog to the last st. K1

Next row: P across

Break yarn and draw through and gather stitches. Sew the seam using the blanket stitch. Add a pom-pom to the top if you like.

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer touque, add more rows than what is mentioned in the pattern. Make more rows than the total of rows 11 and 12.

If you want a beanie that’s more slouchy with a looser weave, you can try using a larger size knitting needle (US size 10 or 6 mm for example). This changes the gauge making it bigger around the head. You’ll have to play with it a bit to figure out how many stitches you’ll need to cast on so it still fits the person’s head.

In saying that, if the hat is too small or too big, any combo of stitches 3x+2 will work. For example, if you need less stitches cast on because you want a looser weave, you may only need 74 sts. You get that with the following equation 3(24)+2=74. Twenty four repeats of the ribbing P2 K1 pattern (on the WRONG side) plus 2 extra P sts. Compare this to the large size that is 30 repeats of the P2 K1 ribbing pattern plus 2 stitches (total of 92 sts).

If you want to make this in child sizes, that’s also possible. As a quick reference, each rib section is about one inch or 2.5 cm if you match the gauge given for this pattern.

I’ve added the 2 stockinette stitches along the side so you can sew the seam easily using the blanket stitch and make it blend in to almost disappear.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

Posted on February 1, 2024February 3, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults – FREE Knitting Pattern

Ribbed moccasin bootie slippers for adults - green

Shocker. Another slipper design 😂 I really do like this style of slipper but after designing the basic moccasin slipper, I was thinking of ways that I can gussy it up a bit if you will. I liked the idea of doing ribbing around it, simply for the additional visual appeal. When I started I didn’t realize how complicated it would be to make the ribbing line up regardless of the sizing. But I gave it some thought, did the math and tahdah! The ribbed moccasins slippers have arrived.

Like the original design, this style of slipper is knit flat on straight needles. The only catch is that it use 2 sets of needles. Don’t worry though. I’ve added a number of photos to help you along. There’s even a few videos for specific stitches and techniques on YouTube if you need extra help.

If you would prefer a printable, ad-avoiding version, you can download the PDF version of this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults. You can also get it at a number of other online retailers such as Ravelry, CreativeFabrica, DeviantArt and Etsy. There is also the Kindle and Paperback versions available on Amazon.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough).

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. (You can watch the embedded video in the Hints and Tips section too).

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Cast on 42 (46, 46, 50)

♠ Row 1: P across

Row 2: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows

♫ Row 9: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 9 (10, 10, 11) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).

Row 10: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ for a total of 10 (10, 12, 12) rows.

Next Row: Repeat row 9.

Toe Flap

Next Row: Pass the next 14 (16, 16, 18) sts on to a stitch holder. K1 M1 K12 M1 K1. Leave the remaining sts unworked on your non-working needle. Turn

♣ ☺ Next Row: P3 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. P1

Next Row: K across. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 12 (12, 14, 14) times more.

Repeat the row marked with ☺. 28 (28, 36, 36) rows for the toe flap.

Making the Sides

Next Row: Put the sts on the stitch holder back on a knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing and with your first needle, K14 (16, 16, 18). Pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the first st of the stockinette stripe and in the M1.

Right side of slipper

With your second needle along the sts of the toe flap, K2tog (To make it blend more into the slipper, pick up the first st as if to knit, twist this st and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit this and the next st together going from RIGHT to LEFT. You can also knit the 2 sts together as you normally would if you want.) K12 K2tog (as you normally would).

With your third needle, pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the M1 and the first st of the stockinette stripe. K14 (16, 16, 20).

Left side of the slipper. (I accidentally dropped the next 2 sts when taking the photo)

Your 3 needles will look like this

♥ Next Row: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 17 (18, 20, 21) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).

Next Row: K across ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 (3, 4, 5).

With the WRONG side facing you, cast off 30 (32, 36, 38) sts. (Maintain the P2 K2 pattern while casting off) P1 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. Cast off the remaining sts maintaining the P2 K2 pattern. Bind off

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Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide below, you can watch the how-to video embedded here. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. The video is for a different style of slipper, but it is made EXACTLY the same way.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Your slipper will look like the slipper above. (I’m using a similar design to more clearly show the cast off stitches.)

Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Making the Heel

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper by working on the 14 sole sts already on your needle, and picking up a st on each side of the needle.

I’ve made a specific video showing how to make the heel. It’s for a number of different styles, but it works the same for all.

Please note: the video decreases every other row. This pattern calls for decreasing EVERY row after the first one or two rows (depending on size). I’ve included photos but if you are still confused, please watch the video embedded below.

♠ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 0 (0, 1, 1) time.

◘ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next row: Knit across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the side. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Hints and Tips

I make my K2tog a little differently at the top of the toe only because how the t looks when you knit the two together can look off. I’m very picky though. It doesn’t really matter.

When picking up the first 2 and last 2 sts along the toe, you don’t have to go through the M1. Once again, I’m just overly particular about what it looks like. What works for you will be fine.

There is a lot of breaking and rejoining of yarn with this pattern. I have made a complete tutorial showing How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can watch the video right here.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on January 27, 2024June 3, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Crocheted Sun Hat and Bucket Hat – FREE Crochet Pattern

Gussy it up or wear it plain, this crocheted hat pattern is extremely versatile and makes hats for nearly anyone. Anyone but my 14 year old son apparently, who said, with his usual unenthusiastic honesty, “I don’t like it but it fits OK”. How do I know this? I needed to borrow his head to see how the smaller size fit and felt when wearing, so I guess it’s at least fit approved ¯\_(‘~’)_/¯

If you would prefer to have a KNITTED version of the bucket hat, I have that too! Click this link – Knit Bucket Hat for Children and Adults – FREE Pattern to start making hats for the entire family, kids included!

This hat can be made a number of ways, either as a wider brimmed sun hat with a flower, plain with the brim shaped similar to a cowboy/cowgirl hat, or with a narrower brim to be a bucket hat. Any way you choose is going to be a success! It’s easy to make, and as long as you know the basics of crochet. Literally if you know how to chain, single crochet (sc) and do a slip stitch (sl st), you’ll be able to make the hat. The flower can be a bit more tricky but I’ve included many photos and detailed descriptions to help you along.

The hat is made with 2 strands worsted weight yarn (or one strand of super bulky yarn) and a larger crochet hook. The stitches need to be fairly tight so the hat will hold it’s shape. Anything larger than the gauge given will make it floppy and the sizing may not work out as written. But, like all my patterns, play with it! If you want a floppy hat, no one said you can’t.

There aren’t any specific measurements for the hat sizing. It’s all very general as there is some stretch to the hat when finished and will form to fit the head it’s covering. If you want your hat to fit a little looser, go for the bigger size.

The way I thought of it when I was designing this hat, if it fit the glass head, it’s a small/medium size. In other words, a regular sized head. If it fits me and looks a little too big on the glass head, it’s a large/extra large. Let me put it this way. I know I have a big head. If you have ever thought you too might have a big head because hats don’t always fit you, hello fellow large head! If this statement makes no sense to you, go for the small/medium.

If you are looking to make the flower and the leaves, they each have their own page on the website. This pattern turned into a bit of a beast as it is. Both patterns are included with the printable PDF version of the sun and bucket hat.

Crochet Flower Pattern

Crochet Leaf Pattern

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

If you would like to avoid the ads on this page or would like to print the pattern, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee from this website at Sun Hat with Gorgeous Flower or Simple Bucket Hat – Printable Crochet Pattern, through my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts or on Ravelry.

Become a Member

Small/Medium

Large/Extra Large

Abbreviations

Ch – chain

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble crochet

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Things You Need:

6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook (or what ever size hook you need to get the correct gauge)

3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook for top edging, flowers and leaves (all optional)

2 balls Worsted Weight yarn or 1 ball Super Bulky yarn (for the hat itself)

For the sun hat you’l need:

106 gr or 3.7 oz each of the worsted weight colours (216 m or 237 yards)

173 gr or 6 oz Super Bulky yarn (170 m or 185 yards) of course it’s less yarn for the bucket hat.

Worsted weight yarn (for band, flowers, leaves and edging)

Stitch markers (at least 8 but it never hurts to have more. See Hints and Tips section)

Tapestry needle (to sew band and flowers, work in the ends)

Gauge

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn

13 sts = 4”

14 rows = 4”

Check your gauge to obtain correct sizing and density of the final fabric created. The stitching needs to be tight to hold the hat shape.

Small/Medium

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…

Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)

Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.

Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)

Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)

Round 8: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (66 sts)

Round 9: Sc around in the back loop.

Round 10-20: Sc around.

Round 21: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (77 sts)

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch).

If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!

Round 22: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sc in the last st. (or crochet as many stitches as you have at the end of the round). (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).

Round 23: 4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around (Crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round but there should be 0).

Round 24: *10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. 2sc (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 31.

Round 25: 5sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 8sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

Round 26: Sc around.

Round 27: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.

Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.

Round 28: Sc around.

Round 29: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around.

Round 30: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.

Round 31: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Top or Crown Edging (Optional)

With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn…

In the loops left from Round 9, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Work in all ends.