These slippers are a perfect blend of comfort, style, and simplicity! Whether you’re a knitting novice or a seasoned pro, this pattern is designed to be approachable and fun for everyone. If you’re more experienced, you’ll find that these slippers practically knit themselves, coming together in no time. For beginners, it’s a wonderful way to build confidence while creating something cozy and practical.
The beauty of these slippers lies in their simplicity. The stitches and techniques are basic, but the finished product looks effortlessly elegant. As long as you know how to cast on, knit, purl, K2tog (knit two together), and increase (by knitting two stitches in one), you’ve got everything you need to bring these slippers to life.
Don’t worry if you’re still working on perfecting these skills—this project is forgiving and a fantastic way to practice. Plus, there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of slipping your feet into something handmade by you. So, grab your needles and yarn, and let’s knit up some cozy magic!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Happy knitting!
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn Any standard ball of yarn (283 g/10 oz, 471 meters/515 yards) will do.
4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In stockinette
4” = 20 sts
4” = 30 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
Heel Flap
Cast on 2 sts
Row 1-3: Knit across.
Row 4: K2 in each st (4 sts). This is also known as INC. See the Abbreviations section for help and a video link.
Row 5-7: Knit across.
Row 8: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (6 sts)
Row 9-11: Knit across.
Row 12: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (8 sts)
Row13 -15: Knit across.
Row 16: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (10 sts)
Row 17-19: Knit across.
Row 20: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (12 sts)
Row 21-23: Knit across.
Row 24: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (14 sts)
Row 25-27: Knit across.
Row 28: K2 in the first st. Knit across to the last st. K2 in the last stitch. (16 sts)
Do not knit the following 4 rows for the other sizes!
Next row: Knit across.
☺ Next row: K13 P1 K14 P1 K13
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: Repeat row marked with ☺
Knit the following rows for ALLsizes.
Next row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (40 sts)
Next row: K12 P1 K14 P1 K12
Next row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. (38 sts)
Next row: K11 P1 K14 P1 K11
Next row: K2tog across. (19 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Next row: K2tog across. K last st. (10 sts)
Next row: Knit across.
Draw yarn through loops.
Make another slipper to match. Flip up the heel flap triangle and sew the edges of the triangle to the cast on edges. Sew the seam at the top of the foot to the first decreases and work in the ends.
Abbreviations
K – knit
INC – increase a stitch or knit 2 sts in one stitch
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
st- stitch
sts – sts
Hints and Tips
If your K2tog for the second to last row is off, no worries. If there’s 2 stitches, knit them together. It’s not a big deal and it won’t make a noticeable difference.
If you need a larger size slipper than what I’ve written for, you can add more knitting rows onto the end of the toe. If your gauge is correct, 4 rows of knitting will add approximately 1/2” or 1.75cm.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. You will NOT get that permission, btw.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
I’m thrilled to share my latest knitting pattern for fingerless mitts, and yes, my love for these cozy accessories shows no sign of stopping! This time around, I’ve added a twist—quite literally—with a unique cable pattern that elegantly winds its way down the back of the hand. It’s a design element that adds both texture and visual interest, making these mitts a true standout piece.
If you’re someone who’s mastered the basics and is looking to elevate your knitting game, this pattern is the perfect next step. It’s designed to bridge the gap between a beginner and an experienced knitter. And if cabling is new to you, don’t worry—this is the ideal project to dive in and learn something new! I’ve made sure to include video tutorials in the Abbreviations section to guide you through the cabling process, so you’ll have all the support you need.
But that’s not all! I’ve also added links to help you with any other potentially tricky parts of the pattern, like increasing for the thumb gusset. I want to ensure you feel confident and supported every step of the way. So, grab your needles, and let’s knit something beautiful together!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Will Need
Worsted weight yarn (less than 100 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves as written. I know because I weighed them). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.
Set of single pointed needles (see note on sizing)
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seams and work in ends
Cable needle
Sizing
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) single pointed needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) single pointed needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Left Hand
Cast on 36
Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1
Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K15 P1 K16 P1 K3
✰ Row 8: P3 K1 P16 K1 P15
❀ Row 9: K15 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8
Row 11: K15 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Row 12: Repeat ✰Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.
Next row: K12 M1 K M1 K2 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (38 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P17
Next row: K17 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 PM1 P PM1 P13 (40 sts)
Next row: K19 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P19
Next row: K14 M1 K M1 K4 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (42 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P21
Next row: K21 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P5 PM1 P PM1 P15 (44 sts)
Next row: K23 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P23
Next row: K16 M1 K M1 K6 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (46 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P25
Next row: K25 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P7 PM1 P PM1 P17 (48 sts)
Next row: K27 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P27
Next row: K12 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K2 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (35 sts)
❤ Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P14
Next row: K14 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤
✪ Next row: ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 3 sts P2 K1
Next row: P1 ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 2 sts. K2 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.
Cast off
Thumb
Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,
Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1
Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K3 P1 K16 P1 K15
✰ Row 8: P15 K1 P16 K1 P3
❀ Row 9: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K15
Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8
Row 11: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K15
Row 12: Repeat ✰ Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K2 M1 K M1 K12 (38 sts)
Next row: P17 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K17
Next row: P13 PM1 P PM1 P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 (40 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K19
Next row: P19 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K4 M1 K M1 K14 (42 sts)
Next row: P21 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K21
Next row: P15 PM1 P PM1 P5 K1 P16 K1 P3 (44 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K23
Next row: P23 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K6 M1 K M1 K16 (46 sts)
Next row: P25 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K25
Next row: P17 PM1 P PM1 P7 K1 P16 K1 P3 (48 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K27
Next row: P27 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K2 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K12 (35 sts)
❤ Next row: P14 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K14
Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤
✪ Next row: K ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 2 sts P2
Next row: ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 3 sts. K2 P1 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.
Cast off
Thumb
Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,
Next row: K across
Next row: P across
Next row: K across
Next row: P across
Cast off
Sew the seams of the thumbs and along the side of each hand. Work in the ends.
Hints and Tips
You can make the gloves as long or as short as you like. I made 3 repeats of the design. You could do less for a shorter version. The grey pair were repeated 7 times to give you an idea of what it looks like when longer.
Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
I want to start this intro off with making everyone aware that this pattern is NOT for beginners. If you are looking for something a little easier or plain I have a couple options that may work better for you. You can try Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern or see what all the options are available by going to the Fingerless Mitts and Glove section on the website.
Even though an experienced knitter will be able to make these, I have provided some photos to help with the pattern. I’m assuming you know how to carry yarn behind your work to change colours. It’s not hard to do, but you do need to watch the tension and make sure that it is neither too tight or loose and is consistent.
I really like how this pattern turned out, though it did take some fiddling to figure out how to incorporate the lattice pattern into the gloves. Now that I’ve figured it out, I thinking about other patterns I can add this detail to ☺. Yes, I am thinking slippers!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 10 US (6 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Sizing
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 6 mm (US size 10) knitting needles
8 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
10 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Colours
MC – Main colour. The colour of the cuffs and lattice design
BG – Background colour. The colour the lattice is on. The palm and back of the hand.
HC – Highlight colour. The band at the end of the wrist section and start of the cuff at the fingers
Continue using the colour until stated to change in the pattern.
You can use more colours than the 3 colours listed. You can use one colour and made tone on tone fingerless mitts. It’s up to you.
Right Hand
Cast on 33 sts
Row 1: With MC K across
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Carry yarn behind your work for row 23 (saves an end to work in)
Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)
Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at the end of row 22.
Row 23: *With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. With BG K13. Break BG colour.
Row 24: Pass next 13 sts onto working needle. With MC YF, Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat to the end of the row. (Don’t work this stitch. Let yarn hang).
Row 25: Join BG K across.
Row 26: P across.
☼ ♣ Row 27: With MC K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times more. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. (see Abbreviations for photos to LK).
♦ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise *YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise
Row 29: With BG K across
Row 30: P across
♥ Row 31: With MC *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
■ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise * YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise, * Repeat from * to * 3 times more.
Row 33: With BG K across
Row 34: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.
Row 35: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 36: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 37: With BG K26 M1 K M1 K11 (40 sts)
Row 38: P across
Row 39: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 40: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 41: With BG K across
Row 42: P12 PM1 P PM1 P27 (42 sts)
Row 43: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 44: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 45: With BG K across
Row 46: P across
Row 47: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 48: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 49: With BG K28 M1 K M1 K13 (44 sts)
Row 50: P across
Row 51: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 52: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 53: With BG K across
Row 54: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P29 (46 sts)
Row 55: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 56: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 57: With BG K across
Row 58: P across
Row 59: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 60: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 61: With BG K30 M1 K1 M1 K15 (48 sts)
Row 62: P across
Row 63: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 64: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 65: With BG K across
Row 66: P16 PM1 P PM1 P31 (50 sts)
Row 67: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 68: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 69: With BG K across
Row 70: P across
Row 71: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 72: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 73: With BG K26 Pass next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K11 (37 sts)
Row 74: P across. Break BG yarn
Row 75: Repeat ♣ Row 27. Break MC yarn. Pass the 25 sts just worked onto the other needle with 12 unworked stitches.
Row 76: With HC K4 * K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more.K2tog K4 (33 sts)
Row 77-79: Knit across
Row 80: With MC K across
Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 82: Repeat row 80
Row 83: Repeat row 81
Cast off.
Make Thumb
Transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle.
☺ Row 1: With MC K across
♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K
Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1
Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2
Cast off
Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Break yarn.
Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts. This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)
Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at end of row 22.
Row 23: With BG K13.*With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. Break BG colour.
Row 24: With MC and YF Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat from * to * 3 times more. YF. Pass next 13 sts onto working needle.
Row 25: Join BG K across.
Row 26: P across
۞ §Row 27: With BG K13. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (see Hints and Tips andAbbreviations for photos to cross yarn and LK respectively).
۩ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise . Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
◊ Row 29: With BG K25 over the 25 sts from previous row.
Row 30: P across.
ʘRow 31: With BG K13 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (40 sts)
▲ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise *YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.
Row 33: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 34: P across. ۞ Repeat from ۞ to ۞ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.
Row 35: With BG K11 M1 K M1 K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1 Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (40 sts)
Row 36: Repeat ۩ Row 28.
Row 37: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 38: P across
Row 39: With BG K15 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 40: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 41: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 42: P27 PM1 P PM1 P12. (42 sts)
Row 43: With BG K17. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 44: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
Row 45: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 46: P across
Row 47: With BG K13 M1 K M1 K3 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (44 sts)
Row 48: Repeat ▲ row 32
Row 49: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 50: P across
Row 51: With BG K19. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 52: Repeat ۩ Row 28
Row 53: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 54: P29 PM1 P PM1 P14 (46 sts)
Row 55: With BG K21 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 56: Repeat ▲ row 32
Row 57: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 58: P across.
Row 59: With BG K15 M1 K M1 K5. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (48 sts)
Row 60: Repeat ۩ Row 28
Row 61: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 62: P across
Row 63: With BG K23 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 64: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 65: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 66: P31 PM1 P PM1 P16 (50 sts)
Row 67: With BG K25. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 68: Repeat ۩ row 28
Row 69: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 70: P across
Row 71: With BG K11. Pass the next 13 sts onto a st holder K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. LK. (37 sts)
Row 72: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 73: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 74: P across
Row 75: With BG K12 Break BG colour yarn. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Break MC. Pass ALL of the sts just worked onto the non-working needle.
Where the needle point is when done the row.
Where the needle point needs to be at the start of the row
Row 76: With HC K4 *K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K2tog. K4 (33 sts)
Row 77-79: Knit across. Break yarn.
Row 80:With MC K across
Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K
Row 82: Repeat row 80
Row 83: Repeat row 81
Cast off.
Make Thumb
transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle.
☺ Row 1: With MC K to the last st. K
♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1
Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2
Cast off
Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.
Hints and Tips
Don’t pull your yarn tight when pulling the yarn across the back of your work. Give enough slack to let the stitches stretch as they should and NOT bunch up. Not doing so will make the gauge significantly smaller and the glove won’t fit.
The lattice pattern is worked when the WRONG side is facing you.
The palm of the hand is plain. FYI I tried to make the lattice pattern all over the mitt. It looked and felt weird and had NO stretch.
You don’t need to add the rolled edge. Rows 1-8 create the roll. You can start with the ribbing at Row 9.
If you want to have a longer version of the glove than what is written, you may need to add more sts to the 13 st section so it will fit around the forearm. There isn’t a lot of stretch to allow for the wide part of the upper forearm.
Crossing over the yarn is straight forward. It needs to look like this or you will get odd shaped stitches.
If you are a left handed knitter, the crossing over of the yarn may need to be done on the right hand instead of the left. I’m not left handed, but logic would dictate things are reversed. In light of you being left handed, I’m assuming this isn’t the first time you’ve run across this issue.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
YF – pull the yarn to the FRONT of your work
YB – pull the yarn to the BACK of your work
Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle without working the stitch.
LK – loop knit. Pick up the loop running across between the sts. Knit this and the next st on the needle.
The loop running between sts
Pick up the loop
Knit the next st.
Knit the st and loop and drop the st from the non-working needle as you normally would.
The loops on the edge are slightly harder to see but done the same way.
Yarn is crossed. Loop between the edge and the st picked up.
Knitting the loop and next st nearly finished.
The loop between the st and the edge is a little harder to see.
Pick up the loop…
…and the last st on the non-working needle. Work this as you did the others.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
Once again, I’m back to one of my favourite, smaller projects to knit: fingerless gloves! I’ve designed a number of different ones over the years with some of my most popular being the Owl Gloves, Spider Fingerless Gloves, Hippo Gloves and the Autumn Leaves Fingerless Gloves, to name a few. Like this pattern, they too are knit flat on straight needles. Over the years I’ve found that most people prefer this to those knit in the round, though I do have those too ☺
Like the other patterns, and to keep the design on the back of the hand centered, I change the size of the needles to make them larger or smaller. There’s more about that in the Gauge section with a quick reference info graphic to help you with the sizing. These are designed for adult hands,but if you would like them even smaller for children, I recommend using thinner yarn and needles. I can’t help with what the final sizing would be unfortunately. It’ll be a guess on your part unless you know how to do the math.
If you need help with any of the techniques used in the pattern, there are links and playable videos in the Abbreviations section after the pattern. All the videos that will show you exactly how to do it.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Zigzag Elegance Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)
Knitting needles – described below in sizing and gauge
Stitch Holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends
Sizing and Gauge
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the spider consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off. Most knitting is tbh.
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4)
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6)
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8)
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
All use stockinette for gauge.
Right Hand
Cast on 35
♠ Row 1: * K2 P1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 2: * P2 K1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: P across
♦Row 11: K2 [K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO] K18 (33 sts) The pattern between the [ and ] make up the pattern up the back of the hand on the RIGHT side.
Row 12: P22 YO P6 YO P5 ♦ (35 sts) Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 7 more times (You can repeat these 2 rows as more than 7 times if you want longer gloves.)
Row 27: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO K3 M1 K1 M1 K14 (35 sts)
Row 28: P24 YO P6 YO P5 (37 sts)
Row 29: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO K20 (35 sts)
Row 30: P14 PM1 P3 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (39 sts)
Row 31: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K22 (37 sts)
Row 32: P26 YO P6 YO P5 (39 sts)
Row 33: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3 M1 K5 M1 K14 (39 sts)
Row 34: P28 YO P6 YO P5 (41 sts)
Row 35: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K24 (39 sts)
Row 36: P14 PM1 P7 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (43 sts)
Row 37: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K26 (41 sts)
Row 38: P30 YO P6 YO P5 (43 sts)
Row 39: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3 M1 K9 M1 K14 (43 sts)
Row 40: P32 YO P6 YO P5 (45 sts)
Row 41: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K28 (43 sts)
Row 42: P14 PM1 P11 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (47 sts)
Row 43: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K30 (45 sts)
Row 44: P34 YO P6 YO P5 (47 sts)
Row 45: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3. Transfer the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K14 (32 sts)
Row 46: P21 YO P6 YO P5 (34 sts)
Row 47: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K17 (32 sts)
Row 48: P21 YO P6 YO P5 (34 sts)
Row 49: K across
Row 50: * K1 P2 * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1
Row 51: P1 * K2 P1 * Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 52: as row 50
Row 53: as row 51
Cast off
Making the Thumb
Transfer the the sts on the st holder back to the knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing:
♠ Row 1: * K2 P1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 2: * P2 K1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: P across
♦Row 11: K18 [K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO] K2 (33 sts) The pattern between the [ and ] make up the pattern up the back of the hand on the RIGHT side.
Row 12: P6YO P6 YO P21 ♦ (35 sts) Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 7 more times (You can repeat these 2 rows as more than 7 times if you want longer gloves.)
Row 27: K14 M1 K1 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (35 sts)
Row 28: P6 YO P6 YO P23 (37 sts)
Row 29: K20 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (35 sts)
Row 30: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P3 PM1 P14 (39 sts)
Row 31: K22 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (37 sts)
Row 32: P6 YO P6 YO P25 (39 sts)
Row 33: K14 M1 K5 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO] K2 (39 sts)
Row 34: P6 YO P6 YO P27 (41 sts)
Row 35: K24 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (39 sts)
Row 36: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P7 PM1 P14 (43 sts)
Row 37: K26 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (41 sts)
Row 38: P6 YO P6 YO P29 (43 sts)
Row 39: K14 M1 K9 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (43 sts)
Row 40: P6 YO P6 YO P31 (45 sts)
Row 41: K28 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (43 sts)
Row 42: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P11 PM1 P14 (47 sts)
Row 43: K30 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (45 sts)
Row 44: P6 YO P6 YO P33 (47 sts)
Row 45: K14 Transfer the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (32 sts)
Row 46: P6 YO P6 YO P20 (34 sts)
Row 47: K17 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (32 sts)
Row 48: P6 YO P6 YO P20 (34 sts)
Row 49: K across
Row 50: * K1 P2 * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1
Row 51: P1 * K2 P1 * Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 52: as row 50
Row 53: as row 51
Cast off
Making the Thumb
Transfer the the sts on the st holder back to the knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing:
Row 1: K across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: K across
Cast off
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
st – stitch
sts – stitches
YO – Yarn over. Pull the yarn FORWARD under your working needle when knitting and knit the next stitch OR pull the yarn BACK under your working needle for a purl and purl the next stitch. Increases one stitch in your work and makes a hole.
How to YO the KNITTING
How to YO when PURLING
K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle. Do NOT knit the stitch.
PSSO – on your working needle, pass the slipped stitch over the stitch just worked. It may be a knit or a K2tog. This and Sl st are a combo that are often done together.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
Hints and Tips
If you prefer to knit the last two stitches together on the left side of the design instead of Sl st and PSSO, make sure that you twist the stitch and put it back on your non-working needle. I did this for the autumn leaf gloves I mentioned earlier. You can watch how I do it here – Motif Edges – Autumn Leaf Half Gloves
I like using ombre or colour transitioning yarns for these. Solid colours also work well. Lighter colours tend to be better as it can be hard to discern the pattern with dark colours like black, brown, purple and such. Variegated colours would probably make the pattern indistinguishable.
You can make the cuff at the fingers and wrist different colours for a little extra flair.
Make the fingerless mittens as long as you like. I made an additional 7 repeats of the design, but you could do more or less. If you do more you should probably cast on more stitches as the arm get thicker towards the elbow, then decrease down to the number of stitches as written in the instructions.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
Perfect for new knitters, these slippers are knit flat on just two needles, making them an ideal project for beginners or anyone looking for a straightforward, relaxing knit.
These charming slippers feature a lace-up design at the front, adding a delightful touch of customization and ensuring a snug fit. You can easily adjust the colours to match your personal style or to use up those leftover yarns in your stash.
Whether you’re knitting for yourself, a loved one, a thoughtful handmade gift, or to sell, these slippers are sure to bring warmth and comfort to any pair of feet. So, gather your materials, find a cozy spot, and let’s get started on creating your very own pair of Cozy Lace-Up Slippers!
If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Cozy Knitted Lace Up Slippers, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and the Kindle and paperback versions are available on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 354 yard, 7 oz or 324 m, 198 gram ball will be more than enough to make single colour slippers).
Size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.
Tapestry needle to sew in ends. If you are using multiple colours, you can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men’s size 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
The Pattern
Unlike most knitting patterns, this pattern’s right side and wrong side are reversed. All ODD numbered rows are the WRONG side and all the EVEN numbered rows are the RIGHT side.
If you need help with the M1, there is a video in the Hints and Tips section.
With lace up section colour, cast on 52 (60, 60, 68) sts. Leave a longer length to sew the top of the toe (about 18 inches).
Row 1 (wrong side): K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4
Row 2 (right side): K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8
Row 3: As row 1
Row 4: K4 (P2 K2) to last 8 sts. P8
Row 5: As row 1
Row 6: As row 4
Row 7: As row 1
Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. (ie. red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple). See Hints and Tips section for more information.
♠ Row 8: K to last 8 sts. P8
Row 9: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)
Change to colour for heel section.
♦ ☺ Row 20: K to last 8 sts. P8
Row 21: K across ☺
Row 22: K to last 8 sts. M1 P8
Row 23: As row 21 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 3 more times. (56, 64, 64, 72 sts)
Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 0 (1, 2, 3) times more for an additional 0 (2, 4, 6) rows.
♫ Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8
Next row: K across
Next row: K to the last 10 sts. K2tog. P8
Next row: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 3 more times. (52, 60, 60, 68)
Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. Remember to knit the rows in the reverse order you did originally (ie. purple, blue, green, yellow, orange, red)
♣ Next row: As row 8
Next row: As row 9 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)
Change to lace up section colour
Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8
Next row: K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4
Next row: As row 4
Next row: As row 1
Next row: As row 4
Next row: As row 1
Next row: K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8 (As row 2)
If you know how to crochet, you can use a size 5 mm (US size 8) and chain as many sts to make it 3 times the length of the slipper. Slip stitch in every chain. Tie off. Stretch out the lace when done.
If you want to knit it instead, cast on 140 (160, 1600, 180) sts. Cast off. Stretch out the lace when done.
You can also braid 3 lengths of yarn to form the lace. I’m not sure how long of lengths you’ll need to do this.
How I laced up the slipper. The lace up areas are sewn together but you don’t have to.
Hints and Tips
There are 12 rows (6 ridges) that form the pattern on the side of the slipper after the lace up area. You can change colours any way you would like for this section. I’ve shown a number of combinations: 1 colour (beige), 2 colour alternating (purple), 3 colour lighter to darker (browns), 6 colour (rainbow), but you may want to try something else.
The 6 colours are 2 rows each for a total of 12 rows.
To sew the seams, use a simple whip stitch for the toe and the lace up section. You don’t want thick seams for these slippers. And speaking of the lace up section, you don’t have to sew it all the way. Up part way, past the toes, will work. I sewed mine all the way up to the rolled cuff. I like how it fits, looks and feels when it’s sewn all the way. But that’s just my preference.
Use the whip stitch when sewing the toes. Draw the stitches together as tightly as you can to draw them together to give a rounder look. To have them draw together even tighter, when you are done with the whip stitch, pull the ends through each corner. Flip the slipper inside out. Weave in each end. When doing this pull the yarn ends even tighter and work the end back on itself to secure it.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
P2tog – purl to sts together.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch.
K2tog – knit 2 sts together.
YO – yarn over. With this pattern, when you go from making the purl st to the knit st, don’t pull the yarn to the back of your work. The YO is forming the hole to weave the lace through.
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
This is an old riff on a new design. As you may know, I have a thing for owls. I’m also starting to develop a thing for hats. In particular, bucket hats. I have a crochet versionand a double thick knit version done thus far. With this hat, the owls can easily be replaceable with any design. And yes, I will be replacing it with various stitch patterns, colours and the like. I may even redesign it so it’s knit in the round on multiple needles so there’s no seam. If you would like that pattern, let me know in the comments.
Unlike my other plain knitted bucket hat, this one doesn’t require anything beyond a single pair of knitting needles and a cable needle. If you’ve made my other owl projects like the scarf, fingerless gloves and the beanie hat, then you’ll be able to make this up in no time.
If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!
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Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)
4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
16 buttons or jewels for eyes
Gauge
In stockinette
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
Top
With main colour
Cast on 5
Row 1: INC across (10 sts)
If there are any stitches that you don’t know how to make, please go to the Abbreviations section at the end of the pattern. I embedded the how-to YouTube videos for you to watch there. 😊
Row 2: P across (always P across for every even row, or WRONG side, until told otherwise directed in the instructions)
Row 3: *K1 M1 * Repeat from * to * until last 2 sts. K2 (18 sts)
Row 5: ♠ K2 M1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ until last 2 sts. K2 (26 sts)
Row 7: ♦ K3 M1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until last 2 sts. K2 (34 sts)
Row 9: ♥ K4 M1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until last 2 sts. K2 (42 sts)
Row 11: ♪ K5 M1 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ until last 2 sts. K2 (50 sts)
Row 13: ▲ K6 M1 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ until last 2 sts. K2 (58 sts)
Row 15: ☼ K7 M1 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ until last 2 sts. K2 (66 sts)
Row 17: ⌂ K8 M1 ⌂ Repeat from ⌂ to ⌂ until last 2 sts. K2 (74 sts)
Row 19: ∞ K9 M1 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ until last 2 sts. K2 (82 sts)
Row 21: ♣ K10 M1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ until last 2 sts. K2 (90 sts)
Stop here if making the sm/med size hat. Go to row marked with ■ and skip row 23 and 24.
Row 23: ◄ K11 M1 ◄ Repeat from ◄ to ◄ until last 2 sts. K2 (98 sts)
Owl Band
■ Change colour for top stripe.
Next 4 rows: K across.
Change colour for owls.
Next row (right side): K across.
Next row (wrong side): K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1
Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1(2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ɵ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) ɵ Repeat from ɵ to ɵ 7 times more. K1
Next row (right side): P1 ɸ P1(2) C4F C4B P2 ɸ Repeat from ɸ to ɸ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 Ʊ K2 P8 K1(2) Ʊ Repeat from Ʊ to Ʊ 7 times more. K1
☺Next row (right side): P1 ¤ P1(2) K8 P2 ¤ Repeat from ¤ to ¤ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ɚ K2 P8 K1(2) ɚ Repeat from ɚ to ɚ 7 times more. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺
2 times more.
Next row: P1 ☻ P1(2) C2F C2B P2 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1
◊ Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1 (2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1
Next row: K1 ȸ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) ȸ Repeat from ȸ to ȸ 7 times more. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊
4 times more.
Change colour for bottom stripe.
Next row: K1 ∆ K1(2) C4F C4B K2 ∆ Repeat from ∆ to ∆ 7 times more. K1
۞Next row: K0(2) ♥ P3 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ across
Next row: K across
Next row: Repeat row marked with ۞
Next row: ♫ INC K3 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ across. K0(2). (150 (162 sts)
Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across
§ Next row: K across
Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across § Repeat from § to § 2 more times.
Cast off.
Hints and Tips
Unlike the other knit bucket hat I have, there is nothing overly tricky about this one. It knits flat on one set of needles making it much easier to make.
Blocking your final project is always up to you. Most things I make I never block. I did with the smaller version (yellow with the yarn eyes) so it would fit the mannequin head better. I cannot recommend a steamer enough! There are a variety on Amazon for fairly cheap. These use nothing but steam, and even when using acrylic yarn, it still holds its shape while relaxing the stitches and doesn’t squash the knitting like a standard iron will.
I also decided to try embroidering on the eyes for the owls. I’m also running out of the half cabochons for eyes so I kinda had to. Do I love it? I don’t hate it and prefer the half cabs but that’s just me. All I did was run a single strand of yarn behind the owls and embroider over the stitches in the eye position. You can see the yarn running behind a bit. If it was a lighter yarn behind a darker colour it would look better. I also left enough yarn between eyes to stretch with the hat. Make sure it’s not too tight if you do this!
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch Click this link to watch this video to see how.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how.
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.
Looking for something to keep the sun off this summer? Why not try a knitted bucket hat. You can even make them for the whole family!
Made with thick yarn, this bucket hat works up faster than most knitted hats. And the stitches are tight. The brim can hold its shape to keep the sun out of your eyes. Because it is knitted you can fold or roll it up to fit any small space in your luggage, pack or bag. Upon arrival, it will look great once you put it on.
For this pattern, I use a very different technique involving multiple needles. Why the extra needles? Round things don’t like to be flat and the stitches get tight if not separated on multiple needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me. Where you end with one needle, the tip of the next needle is there for you to continue on knitting. By doing it this way, the hat is knit flat and NOT in the round.
If you are the type that also crochets, I have a couple of summer hat crochet patterns you may want to take a look at. My Sunny Days Bucket Hat and my very popular Crochet Flower and Bucket Hat. Both are designed only for adults.
Another way to support my work is to become a website member. Not only can you print this pattern, but you can download and print over 50 patterns. When you subscribe to my website for $3 a month, you’ll have access to all existing and future patterns. You can cancel your subscription at any time. For more info on becoming a member you click this button:
Don’t forget to support my work with a share! Letting people know about my patterns is the easiest way for you to help me.
Things You Will Need
2 balls of worsted weight yarn or 1 ball of Super Bulky Yarn – The standard large size balls (360 yards of worsted weight) will do and you’ll have a lot left over. When using 2 strands of yarn use either the same colour or 2 colours. Combining shades, colours and textures can give interesting effects. (Acrylic, blends and cotton all work)
One set of size US 8 (5 mm) straight (single point) knitting needles
One set of size US 8 (5 mm) dpn (double pointed) knitting needles – We’re using these needles a single pointed needles. These usually come with 5 in a set, are shorter and are less unwieldy when knitting. You can use stitch stoppers at one end of each needle or wrap the end with an elastic band to keep the stitches from slipping off the end.
2 Size US 8 (5 mm) circular needles(optional) – The last rows of the brim for the largest size has a large number of stitches. It can be easier to use circular needles to knit these when used as a regular single pointed needle.
Stitch stoppers (optional) – for the ends of the dpn’s or circular needles to make them single pointed needles. Elastics wrapped around the end of the dpn’s or circular needles work just as well.
Tapestry needle – To sew the seam and work in ends.
How to Use the Needles
The rows work back and forth like every other flat thing you’ve knitted. The only difference with the hat is you are going to be adding stitches for each section and these additional stitches are going to make it round. To help you visualize what you’re going to make I’ve include the following graphic. The hat is divided into 5 sections, each divided with knit stitches. You work back and forth, from one needle to the next, until you have the correct number of stitches for the size hat you are making.
You don’t need to use 5 separate needles with one working needle. 2 or sometimes 3 sections will fit on one needle before the stitches become to tight to knit. Switch to a new needle when it suits you. There is no right or wrong time to add a new needle.
The stitches at the start of the hat need to be split between at least 2 needles with one additional working needle. The stitches quickly become too tight to work with a single straight needle.
You can also use 2 sets of circular needles when you get further along in the hat. Use each needle as a long and flexible single pointed needle. You can wrap an elastic band or use a stitch stopper at the end so the stitches don’t slide off the end.
Sizing
Every 3 sts equals approximately 1 inch. When making the child hat, you can make it slightly bigger by adding additional M1 sts to each section past what is written in Row 11. If you need an inch larger, when knitting the next increase row, evenly add one M1 st in 3 of the 5 sections (ie section 1, 3, and 5). If 2 inches, 2 M1 sts in 3 sections. The ribbing for the brim will work for every inch (or 3 M1 sts) you add.
If you need a smaller hat, when making Row 11, knit 3 M1 sts less in 3 sections. You’ll have a total of 52 sts.
If you are adjusting for size, only knit an additional 18 rows instead of 20.
If adding or subtracting M1 sts, the number of repeats and stitch counts for the child size for the brim will be off. Adjust accordingly.
With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn
in stockinette
6 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
11 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Measurements for the sizes:
child = 18.5 inches (47 cm)
sm/med adult = 21.5 inches (54.5 cm)
lg/x-lg adult = 23.5 inches (60 cm)
Pattern is written as such:
Child (sm/med adult, lg/x-lg adult)
The Pattern
Cast on 5
Row 1: Inc in every st (10 sts)
You can watch the video below if you are uncertain how to make the increases.
Row 2: P across
Purl across for every even row [the WRONG side] until making the brim
Row 3: ◊ K M1 K ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 4 more times. (15 sts)
Click on the video below if you need help with the M1 stitch
You’ll need to start using the extra needles. The first 2 sections (*K M1 K* twice) are on the first needle with the remaining sections are on the second needle.
Row 5: ○ K M1 K M1 K ○ Repeat from ○ to ○ 4 more times. (25 sts)
The first 2 sections (*K M1 K M1 K* twice) are on the first needle with the remaining sections on the second needle.
Row 7: ◘ K M1 K3 M1 K ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 4 more times. (35 sts)
The first 2 sections (*K M1 K3 M1 K* twice) are on the first needle. Sections 3 & 4 (*K M1 K3 M1 K* twice) are on the second needle. Section 5 on the third needle.
You can use any combo of stitches that you like
When purling the wrong side, I purled one section, purled 3 sections on the middle needle, and still need to purl the last section.
Or maybe this combo
The first sections is on the first needle. Sections 2 & 3 are on the second needle. Section 4 is on the third needle. Section 5 on the fourth needle. Whatever works for you is perfect!
Row 9: ☺ K M1 K5 M1 K ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 4 more times. (45 sts)
Row 11: ♠ K M1 K5 M1 K ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 4 more times. (55 sts)
Stop here if making the child size bucket hat.
Move on to Row 16.
Row 13: ♪ K M1 K7 M1 K ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 4 more times. (65 sts)
Stop here if making the teen/small adult size bucket hat.
Move on to Row 16.
Row 15: ▲ K M1 K9 M1 K ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ 4 more times. (75 sts)
Row 16: P across
Row 17: K across
Row 18: P across
Repeat rows 17 and 18 for a total of 20 (22, 24) rows.
About to start on the repeating rows.
Make the Brim
Next Row: K3 (1, 2) ♥ K1 M1 K2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 16 (20, 23) times more. K1 (1, 1). 72 (86, 99 sts)
Next Row: P1 K1 ■ P3 K ■ Repeat from ■ to ■ 16 (20, 23) times more. P2 (0, 1).
Next Row: K2 (4, 1) ☼ Inc, K3 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 16 (19, 23) times more. Inc, K1. 90 (107, 124 sts)
✿ Next Row: P1 K2 ∞ P3 K2 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ 16 (19, 23) times more. P2 (3, 1) K0 (1, 0).
Next Row: K across
Next Row: Repeat row marked with ✿
Next Row: K across
Next Row: Repeat row marked with ✿
Cast off. Leave a longer length of 1 strand of your yarn to sew seam and draw the circle closed at the top of the head. Work in the remaining ends of yarn.
Hints and Tips
Where you split the stitches is up to you. If the stitches are getting difficult to knit, use a new needle from the set.
When separating the sections between needles, lines can form in your work where the needles meet. To avoid this, knit a few stitches off the next needle. When knitting on the other side, knit one or two stitches from the next needle. This alternates the stitches where the needles meet and can prevent the line from forming.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
Inc – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
Looking for a more form fitting hat or toque to keep yourself or your loved ones a bit extra warm? This ribbed crochet beanie will certainly do that. Made with simple stitches and many photos to help you along, this crochet project is perfect for all levels of crocheters.
Due to the sideways, ribbed design, it is very forgiving in the sizing. It snugs in tightly to the head of the wearer and is very customizable. You can make it with or without extra folded edging across the forehead and ears. It all depends on how many stitches you chain at the start. Don’t worry I explain this all later on in the pattern.
If you aren’t a fan of crocheting, this was originally designed as a knitted beanie. It too, is done in an up and down fashion like this. If you would like to see that pattern, you can click this link – Winter Beanie Toque or Touque or Tuque with Vertical Stripes
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).
If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn. One standard ball (278 yards or 255 m) will do but if you want other colour segments, of course it will be more skeins of yarn. This doesn’t include yarn for an optional pom pom.
Size 5 mm (H or size 8) crochet hook
Tapestry needle so work in ends
Gauge
In single crochet
17 sts = 4 inches or 10 cm
16 rows = 4 inches or 10 cm
The Pattern
To achieve the ribbing effect, all stitches are made in the BACK loop only! ALL stitches throughout the pattern are made in the back loop.
Ch 51. In second ch from hook:
*Row 1 – 4: 50 SC across in the back loop of every st
Row 5: 47 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
HDC over these sts
Pull up a loop in the back loop of each st
YO and draw through all 3 loops
Row 6: 48 SC, Ch 1. Turn.
Row 7: 42 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
Pull up loops in the back loop of these 2 sts. YO and draw through all 3 loops. Leave remaining 4 sts unworked.
Row 8: 43 SC, Ch 1. Turn.
Row 9: 37 SC, HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1, Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
Row 10: 38 SC, Ch 1.Turn.*
Repeat from * to * 7 more times (for a total of 8 sections). If you want to change colours, do so BEFORE the Ch 1. Then turn.
When repeating you need to pick up the stitches that were decreased.
Bring the edges together and slip stitch the seam together. Go through the back loop, and between the sts of the row 1 as you SL ST down the length of the toque. Turn the hat inside out when done the seam.
Work in the back loop like before.
Insert your hook in the back loop of the st. Do NOT YO yet!
Insert your hook between the sts of the first row. YO now and pull through.
Continue to slip the YO through so there is a single loop on your hook.
Making a few stitches of the seam.
Leave a length of yarn about 8 inches long. Draw the ends of the rows together to close the hole at the top of the beanie. Add a pom pom if you like.
Alternate Pattern for ANY Length
If you would like to make a larger folded edge over the forehead and ears, you can chain more sts to make it as long as you want. You can also have no folded edge. For this, chain less stitches. How many chains all depends on what you’re looking to accomplish and will take some trial and error. Of course, if you are doing this, the st counts will be off.
Another way to write the pattern for any number of sts is as follows.
*Row 1 – 4: SC across in the back loop of every stitch
Row 5: SC until there is 3 sts remaining. HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn (leave remaining sts unworked).
Row 6: SC to the end of the row. Ch 1. Turn.
Row 7: SC until there are 6 sts unworked of the previous row (doesn’t include sts from previous row). HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn
Row 8: SC to the end of the row., Ch 1. Turn.
Row 9: SC until there are 6 sts unworked of the previous row (doesn’t include sts from previous rows). HDC over the next 2 sts. Ch 1. Turn
Row 10: SC to the end of the row., Ch 1.Turn.*
Repeat from * to * 7 more times (for a total of 8 sections). If you want to change colours, do so BEFORE the Ch 1. Then turn.
Bring the edges together and slip stitch the seam together. Go through the back loop, and between the sts of the row 1 as you SL ST down the length of the toque. Turn the hat inside out when done the seam.
Leave a length of yarn about 8 inches long. Draw the ends of the rows together to close the hole at the top of the beanie. Add a pom pom if you like.
Abbreviations
SC – single crochet
HDC – half double crochet
YO – yarn over
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Hints and Tips
If you would like to alternate colours, anything that goes evenly into 8 will work; any 2 or 4 colours.
Speaking of colours, this design works particularly well with ombre, variegated and self striping yarns.
I’m always a fan of these yarns, but find that there aren’t many patterns where I can use them.
If you would like to make it fit child sized heads, you have a couple of options. You can either use a smaller size hook so there are more stitches per inch/cm. The other option is to make less sections and ch fewer sts when starting. Changes such as these are beyond what I can calculate for so I can’t help you much with that. It will be trial and error on your part.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
The knitted owl hat, scarf and mitt collection is now available and you have a few options to choose from. There is the ad-supported, free web versions, the printable 3 patterns in one PDF, and last but not least, the paperback and Kindle versions are now on Amazon! Keep scrolling down the page to see all the options to choose from.
Make the beanie and gloves!
These patterns use very basic stitches, making it a great pattern collection for newbies and super quick for those with more experience. The patterns themselves only involve the knit and purl stitch, k2tog, and cabling. I added scannable QR codes to how-to videos to help you along if you are a new knitter or just need a bit of extra help with how to do cable stitches.
If you would like to get the paperback, you can find it on Amazon. Make sure that you select your country so if you are a Prime Member on Amazon, shipping is included in the final price.
The print and Kindle versions are only in English. Other language are not available.
If you’d prefer to print the 3 pattern collection yourself, there are a couple options for you also. You can buy the printable PDF from my Etsy shop here:
I decided to make a new style of bucket hat when I became enamoured with the many granny square hats I was seeing online. While I appreciate the basic granny square, I felt I needed to jazz up the square a bit. I found a very basic flat flower, which I liked, but I knew I could make it a bit nicer with a textured flower and more leaves.
While I wouldn’t say that this is a beginner pattern, I’ve supplied numerous photos to show you how to make all of the more complicated parts.
The hat itself is made to fit adults and is a one size fits most. It’s not too small to fit a larger head (that would be someone like me) but tight enough to be a roomy, easy fit for those with an average size head.out of 100% cotton yarn for comfort, but you can use whatever you prefer, or have on hand.
If you are looking for photos to help you along with the granny square, I made a separate post that will show you how with photos. I didn’t add them here because there are already so many photos, it would make for a behemoth of a post. It’s easier to just do 2. It makes it less of a burden on the server to separate them into different posts. To see the photos along with the written instructions, click this link – Flower and Leaves Granny Square – Easy Crochet Pattern
Use the Table of Contents tab on the left to easily navigate through the pattern and avoid photos if you don’t need them.
If you decide to purchase the downloadable PDF or the Kindle or paperback version on Amazon, the photos for everything ARE included in the single publication. If you want the printable copy you can buy it on this website here – Sunny Days Granny Square Bucket Hat, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry and the aforementioned, Amazon in both a Kindle and Paperback versions. If ordering the paperback, make sure you select the correct country. It’s set to USA by default.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That link is to a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).
Another way to support my work is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area.
If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Things You Need
4 colours of worsted weight yarn (center, flower, leaves and hat body and brim). I used 100% cotton yarn for breathability in hot temperatures but you can use anything. You will need at least 2 of the smaller balls of cotton yarn for the main colour. I used the yarn that comes in the large balls of cotton yarn for my main colour.
3.5 mm (size E or 4) crochet hook
Stitch markers – spare pieces of yarn will work.
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
Gauge
In DC – double crochet
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
5 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Each square measures approximately 12 cm (4.75 inches) wide.
The Granny Square (make 5)
With your choice of center colour,
Ch 2 making first chain large enough to fit the next 8 sts.
Round 1
8 HDC. Join with sl st at the top of the first ch. Break yarn.
In any HDC, join with sl st. Ch 1 and make it into a large loop. Pull up a large loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO draw through all the loops ion your hook. Ch 2. ♠ In the next HDC, *Pull up a loop. YO* Repeat from * to * 3 times more (total of 4 large loops). Draw through all loops on your hook. Ch 2 ♠ Repeat form ♠ to ♠ around for a total of 8 petals. Join with sl st to the first ch 1 of the first petal. Break yarn. Tie off.
Round 3
With your choice of leaf colour,
Join with sl st in any Ch 2 space. Ch 1 ♣ YO. Draw up a loop as if to make a DC. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on your hook unworked.♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ one more time. YO and draw through the all loops on your hook. (Small middle leaf complete). ▲ Ch 4.. In the next Ch 2 space, ♥ ◘ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop as before. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.◘Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 more times. YO and draw through all 4 loops on your hook. ♥ (1st corner leaf made). Ch 5. Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 1 time staying in the same Ch 5 space of the leaf just made. (2nd corner leaf made). Ch 4. In the next Ch 2 space, Repeat from ♣ to ♣ but repeat 3 times total. (Small middle leaf made).▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ ending with last 2 corner leaves. Ch 4. Join with sl st to the top of 1st small middle leaf. Break yarn. Tie off.
Round 4
With your choice of edging colour,
Join with sl st in the DC of any small middle leaf, Ch 2. ♫ In the next Ch 4 space, (DC, HDC, SC). SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 5 corner space, 5 SC, SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 4 space (SC, HDC, DC) DC in the next 2 sts. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ ending with 1 DC in the next st. Join with sl st in the top of the starting Ch 2.
Round 5
Working evenly over the sts unless otherwise stated, 6 SC, 3 SC in the corner st, ☼ 16 SC, 3 SC in the corner st. ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 2 more times. 8 SC. Join with sl st in starting SC. Break yarn. Tie off.
Make 4 more granny squares. Join squares together to make a circle. You can sew them together or use a sl st along the edges. Make the seam from middle corner SC to the middle corner SC.
With the RIGHT side of the circle facing you, and on either edge, count back 4 sts from any joining seam. Join yarn with a sl st, SC, HDC, DC. Place a st marker at the seam. 18 DC *2DCtog twice. 16 DC. Place st marker on the seam* Repeat from * to * around to the 2 sts before the st marker. Do NOT join! You will now work continuously around the top of the hat.
Count back 4 sts
Join with Sl St, SC, HDC, DC. Place marker.
18 DC
2DCtog in these 2 stitches (decrease)
2DCtog made
2DCtog on other side of the seam
2DCtog at end of round.
Round 2 and beyond
☺ 2DCtog on each side of the st marker. DC to the 2 sts before the st marker. ☺. Repeat around from ☺ to ☺ until there are no sts between the 2DCtog. Make 2DCtog until there are 6 sts left. HDC over 2 sts. (Pull up loop in next 2 sts. YO and draw through all 3 loops on your hook). Join with a sl st in the next st. Break yarn. Tie off. Work in end.
Hat Brim
Round 1
With the RIGHT side of the hat facing you, count back 4 sts from any joining seam. SC, HDC, DC. Place a st marker at the seam. DC around to st marker. Do NOT join but work in continuous rounds.
Round 2
◊ 4 DC 2DC in next st. ◊ Repeat around from ◊ to ◊ to the st marker.
Round 3
8 DC, 2 DC in next st. ♪ 5 DC 2DC in next st. ♪ Repeat around from ♪ to ♪ to the st marker. 2 DC in last st. (don’t worry if your off by a few sts).
Round 4
DC around to the st marker. HDC, SC, sl st in the next st to join. Ch 1. Turn.
Round 5
With the WRONG side facing you, SC around to st marker. Join with sl st in Ch 1. Break yarn. Tie off. Work in ends.
Abbreviations
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
HDC – half double crochet
2DCtog – crochet 2 sts together. Do NOT YO. Pull up a loop in the next st as if to make a SC. Pull up a loop in the next st. YO. Draw through 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the 2 loops on your hook. Decrease made. 2 stitches are now crocheted together.
YO – yarn over
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Hints and Tips
If counts are off for round 5, SC as many sts as you need to get to the middle st of the corner. Make sure the 3 sts in one st are always in the middle st.
There are a lot of ends when you make a multi-coloured granny square. Work the ends in as you crochet. Hold your yarn to the back of your work and catch the end over a few sts while you crochet. There are lots of great videos online that can show how.
If you would like a wider brim on your hat, DC with increases every other row around. End one row of DC without increases and a row of SC.
If the hat is too big or too small, you can always switch up the hook size. Use a smaller hook to make it smaller, and a larger hook for a bigger one. I wouldn’t add or take away a square as they are quite large and will make a big difference in the size. A larger size hook will also make the brim less stiff and more floppy. Please note I can’t help you with sizing if you’ve changed the hook size.
I decided to make a new style of bucket hat when I became enamoured with the many granny square hats I was seeing online. While I appreciate the basic granny square, I felt I needed to jazz up the square a bit. While this square is used in the hat, this particular pattern is for the square only.
What can you do with a square? Pretty much anything. A square can be used as a square of course, like a coaster. It’s when you start adding those squares together that you really can do more. Attached them together to make a scarf, more squares to make a larger square for a pillow. Add a lot of squares and make an afghan. Put them together in creative ways to make the body and sleeves of a sweater, or diagonally and make a bag. Add extra stitches to make a hat, more stitches on one side to make a small purse. It really is only limited by imagination.
Use the Table of Contents tab on the left to go to the next round without scrolling past the photos.
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Unlike most of my patterns, this one is NOT available as a printable version, yet. I’m planning on developing a collection of granny squares I’m going to make available. And I have a hat pattern I’m working on where this square will be added in full. But for now, you can scroll along and make the square as you go.
Things You Need
4 colours of worsted weight yarn (center, flower, leaves and border)
3.5 mm (size E or 4) crochet hook
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
Gauge
In DC – double crochet
10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
5 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Each square measures approximately 12 cm (4.75 inches) wide.
This is a fairly densely packed square with more sts per inch. It’s not very “floppy” and is more stiff. If you are wanting more flexibility in your final project, like a blanket, use a larger hook, like a 5 mm (Size H or 6) or so.
If you are making the hat pattern (coming soon!) you’ll need 5 squares.
The Pattern
With your choice of center colour,
Ch 2 making first chain large enough to fit the next 8 sts.
Round 1
8 HDC. Join with sl st at the top of the first ch. Break yarn.
Round 2
With your choice of flower petal colour,
In any HDC, join with sl st. Ch 1 and make it into a large loop. Pull up a large loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO. Pull up a loop. YO draw through all the loops ion your hook. Ch 2. ♠ In the next HDC, *Pull up a loop. YO* Repeat from * to * 3 times more (total of 4 large loops). Draw through all loops on your hook. Ch 2 ♠ Repeat form ♠ to ♠ around for a total of 8 petals. Join with sl st to the first ch 1 of the first petal. Break yarn. Tie off.
Pattern continues after photos. Use the Table of Contents tab on the left to go to the next round without scrolling past the photos.
Pull up large loop
Pull up a large loop
YO and pull up a large loop
YO and pull up another loop
YO
Draw through all loops on hook. Ch 2
In next HDC, pull up a loop
YO and pull up loops like you did before
YO and draw through all loops. Ch 2
Round 3
With your choice of leaf colour,
Join with sl st in any Ch 2 space. Ch 1 ♣ YO. Draw up a loop as if to make a DC. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on your hook unworked.♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ one more time. YO and draw through the all loops on your hook. (Small middle leaf complete). ▲ Ch 4.. In the next Ch 2 space, ♥ ◘ YO 3 times. Draw up a loop as before. YO and draw through the first 2 loops on your hook. YO. Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. YO Draw through the next 2 loops on your hook. Leave the remaining loops on the hook unworked.◘Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 more times. YO and draw through all 4 loops on your hook. ♥ (1st corner leaf made). Ch 5. Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 1 time staying in the same Ch 5 space of the leaf just made. (2nd corner leaf made). Ch 4. In the next Ch 2 space, Repeat from ♣ to ♣ but repeat 3 times total. (Small middle leaf made).▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ ending with last 2 corner leaves. Ch 4. Join with sl st to the top of 1st small middle leaf. Break yarn. Tie off.
YO and draw through first 2 loops as if you were going to make a DC. Leave the 2 loops unworked.
YO
Pull up a loop
YO and draw through the 2 loops. Leave remaining loops unworked
YO and draw through all loops on hook. Smaller middle leaf made. Ch 4
YO 3 times
In next ch 2 space, draw up a loop
YO and draw through 1st 2 loops
YO and draw through next 2 loops
YO and draw through next 2 loops. Leave the remaining loops unworked.
In same ch 2 space, YO 3 times to make next “arm” of leaf
YO and draw up a loop. Repeat the leaf “arm” same as last time.
Leave the remaining loops unworked.
Make the 3rd “arm”
YO and draw through the 4 loops on your hook. Ch 5 and make another leaf in this ch 2 space.
Ch 4. YO and draw up loop in next ch 2 space.
Draw up a loop
YO and draw through 2 loops. Leave remaining loops unworked
YO and draw up a loop in same ch 2 space
YO and draw through the 2 loops on hook. Leave remaining st unworked.
YO and draw through all loops on your hook. Ch 4
Round 4
With your choice of edging colour,
Join with sl st in the DC of any small middle leaf, Ch 2. ♫ In the next Ch 4 space, (DC, HDC, SC). SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 5 corner space, 5 SC, SC in each of the next 2 sts. In the Ch 4 space (SC, HDC, DC) DC in the next 2 sts. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ ending with 1 DC in the next st. Join with sl st in the top of the starting Ch 2.
Join in this st on ANY small middle leaf
DC, HDC, SC in ch 4 space
SC in next 2 sts
5 SC in ch 5 space between corner leaves
SC next 2 sts
SC, HDC, DC in ch 4 space
DC in next 2 sts of small middle leaf
Round 5
Working evenly over the sts unless otherwise stated Ch 3, 6 DC, 3 DC in the corner st, ☼ 16 DC, 3 DC in the corner st. ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ 2 more times. 8 DC. Join with sl st in starting Ch 3. Break yarn. Tie off.
Please note:You can substitute SC for the DC in round 5. Photos of the granny square show the squares with DC edging. If using SC don’t Ch 3.
Abbreviations
SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
HDC – half double crochet
YO – yarn over
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Hints and Tips
If counts are off for round 5, DC as many sts as you need to get to the middle st of the corner (I marked it in the photo). Make sure the 3 sts in one st are always in the middle st.
There are a lot of ends when you make a multi-coloured granny square. To help with things, hold your yarn to the back of your work and catch the end over a few sts while you crochet. There are lots of great videos online that can show how.
These colourful, cuffed owl fingerless mitts are made to match my very popular Owl Beanieand Owl Scarf, also knit flat on two needles. You can click the links if you would like to make either one; or both 😉. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page.
I’ve made these owl wrist warmers similar to my original knit flat owl half gloves but with this version, they are knit from the fingers to the wrist cuff. The owls are made from feet to head, matching the aforementioned hat and scarf. There is a slight difference with the appearance of the owls when made from head to feet and I couldn’t live with that. Once you see it you can’t not see it, if you know what I mean.
And since I was doing a redesign, I figured I should make the cuffs match. So I did. I did two versions of the glove. One with a rolled cuff edge (blue and brown) and one without (green). It is clearly marked in the pattern where to stop knitting and cast off depending on the edging you want. And speaking of the final appearance of the granny gloves, there is no reason that these gloves have to match anything. You can also knit them in a single colour. It really is up to you and what look you are after.
To make the thumb gusset blend as much as possible and match on both sides of the thumb, there are different ways to knit and purl the stitches together. It changes whether it is on the left or the right side of the thumb. It is noted how to knit and purl the stitches in the pattern. I’ve also added links to a helpful how-to video to show you how. You don’t have to make the stitches the way I did, but it gives a much better overall look. There’s more about this in the Hints and Tips section.
If casting on the 13 stitches for the thumb or picking up stitches is confusing for you, there is also a video to help you with that too. The link is after the Hints and Tips section.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. The Amazon link goes to the US store. If ordering the paperback, make sure you pick the region where you live!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
4 – 8 mm flat back cabochons or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, The gloves will stretch a bit as the stitches relax.
Right Hand
Cast on 34 sts
◊ Row 1: K across
Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)
Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)
Row 12: P5 K1 P8 K1 P19
Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts K6 C4B C4F K6
If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos below:
Row 14: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P32
Row 15: K35 P4 K8
Row 16: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P14
Row 19: K14 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K8 P4 K8
This is the same video as above but automatically starts at the how to K2tog section.
Row 20: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P28
Row 21: K31 P4 K8
Row 22: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P14.
Row 23: K27 C4B C4F K6
Row 24: P5 K1 P8 K1 P26
Row 25: K14 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K20
Row 26: P5 K1 P8 K1 P24
Row 27: K across
Row 28: P5 K1 P8 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P14
Row 29: K across
Row 30: P5 K1 P8 K1 P22
Row 31: K14 K3tog (from left to right) K6 C4B C4F K6
Row 32: P5 K1 P8 K1 P20
(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)
Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)
Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.
☺ Row39: K across
Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.
Continue with the rest of the pattern if you would like a rolled edge to match the edging of the owl beanie hat. If you don’t like the rolled edge, cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
◘ Row 49: K across
Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.
Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
Thumb
With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.
Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)
Row 5:♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Row 6: K across
Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.
Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)
Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)
Row 12: P19 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 13: K6 C4B C4F K6 Cast on 13 sts K14
Row 14: P32 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 15: K8 P4 K35
Row 16: P14 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 17: K8 P4 K33
Row 18: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 19: K8 P4 K8 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K14
Row 20: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 21: K8 P4 K31
Row 22: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 23: K6 C4B C4F K27
Row 24: P26 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 25: K20 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K14
Row 26: P24 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 27: K across
Row 28: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P5 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 29: K across
Row 30: P22 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 31: K6 C4B C4F K6 K3tog (from left to right) K14
Row 32: P20 K1 P8 K1 P5
(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)
Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)
Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.
☺ Row39: K across
Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.
Continue with the rest of the pattern if you would like a rolled edge to match the edging of the owl beanie hat. If you don’t like the rolled edge, cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
◘ Row 49: K across
Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.
Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
Thumb
With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.
Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)
Row 5:♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Row 6: K across
Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.
Hints and Tips
If you don’t P2tog and K2tog as indicated in the pattern, you’ll end up with one very defined line on one side of the thumb gusset, and a much less refined edge on the other. I tried many combos to make the side of the gusset match. Making the stitches as indicated in the pattern allow for this.
This photo is what the thumb gusset will look like if you knit and purl the stitches without following the instructions.
You don’t need to add the extra garter and ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.
You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.
Watch the Helpful Thumb Video
If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb The video is for a different fingerless glove style, but is a very similar technique.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
P2tog – purl 2 together
K3tog – knit 3 stitches together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Owls seem to hold a draw for a lot of people, myself included. I think there are as many reasons as there are people as to why this happens.
This scarf is made to match my very popular Owl Beanie; also knit flat on two needles. If you can make the scarf, I guarantee that you will be able to make the owl toque, if you haven’t already 😉 You can read that pattern for free on my website here: Knit a Beanie – with OWLS!
And in case you haven’t found it yet, there is also a pattern for the matching owl fingerless gloves! These are also knit flat on 2 needles and are seamed along the side of hand along the little finger side. If you would like to read that pattern, you can find it here – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!
You may be wondering why there is a seam to sew and why this isn’t made in one piece. The owls look a bit different when you make cables from the top (head to feet) and from the bottom (feet to head). Also, the band on the end needs to change from knit stitches (garter) to purl stitches. It’s just all around more complicated than it needs to be. Besides, the seam is nearly invisible and less effort than going through the effort of trying to make the ends match if made in one piece. Trust me. I did try to make it one piece. I even wrote it down as I made it. One out of 10. Do not recommend.
If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Knit Owl Scarf – Knit Flat on 2 Straight Needles, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, and the Kindle version is available onAmazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – either complimentary colours or single colour. How much depends on how long you want to make the scarf and if you want fringe.
5 mm (Size 8 US) single pointed knitting needles
4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed needles (optional but strongly suggested)
Cable needle
Crochet hook (for fringe. Size doesn’t matter as long as you can use it for yarn)
Tapestry needle to sew seam and work in ends
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Gauge isn’t really important, but if you are making the beanie or hat to match, you’ll want the gauge to be the same as the hat.
The scarf is one size fits all.
The Pattern
Cast on 40 sts with the 4 mm needles (you don’t have to use the smaller needles but it helps keep the starting edge from splaying out wider than the scarf).
♠ Row 1: Knit (If using the smaller size needles, switch to the 5 mm needles. Only knit the 1st row with the smaller size needles. All subsequent repeats are done with the size 5 mm needle).
Row 2: (K1 P2) until 1 st remains. K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7if desired.)
To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can click that link or watch tis video.
Row 7-11: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)
Row 12 ♦ K1 P2 K1 P8 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 more times.. K1 P2 K1
Row 13: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4
If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos.
Row 14: ♥ K1 P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 more times. K1 P2 K1
Row 15 K6 ☺ P4 K8 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once. P4 K6
Row 16: As row 14
Row 17: As row 15
Row 18: As row 14
Row 19: As row 15
Row 20: As row 14
Row 21: As row 15
Row 22: As row 14
Row 23: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4
Row 24: ♦ K1 P2 K1 P8 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 2 more times.. K1 P2 K1
Row 25: Knit
Row 26: As row 24
Row 27: Knit
Row 28: As row 24
Row 29: Knit
Row 30: As row 24
Row 31: ♣ K4 C4B C4F ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 2 more times K4
Row 32: as row 24 (Change colour at the START of row 33if desired.)
Row 33 – 36: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 37if desired.)
▲ ♠ Row 37: Knit
Row 38: (K1 P2) until 1 st remains. K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows.
Row 47 – 50: Knit. ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ as many times as you want. REMEMBER – make it HALF as long as you want the final scarf. See further suggestions in the Hints and Tips section.
When making the last repeat finish with Row 48. Cast of on the RIGHT side.
Sew the seam to join the two halves. When joining leave a length of yarn on one of the halves to use to sew this seam.
When making the seam, pull the sides together so they are snug but not tight. There is a bit of slack naturally between the rows of garter stitch. You want to mimic this as closely as possible.
To join the ends, you’ll work between the cast off edge and row 48. You can see in the photo some previously joined stitches. Note where the yarn end is coming out.
With your tapestry needle, pick up the bar that is between the bump of the stitch and the cast off row.
Pull snug.
Pick up the bar that is between the cast off row and the bump of the stitch.
Continue down the length of the seam. It should look like the other garter bands on the scarf. You can pull the two ends apart a bit to get the stitches to even out the tension along the seam.
Making the Fringe
This is optional. If you are not a fringe person, don’t add a fringe. You may prefer a different style of fringe than what I did. Whatever you prefer is perfect.
When you switched from the smaller 4 mm needles to the larger, there became a bend at the end. Along that bend are stitches that run along the bottom. These are perfect for adding the fringe.
I preferred to make the fringe with one strand drawn through. You may want more strands and alternate with every other stitch. There are a lot of fringe tutorials and variations online that you may like more. It’s worth taking a look. Regardless, I’ve provided the instructions to show you how I made my fringe.
Cut lengths of yarn for twice the length you want your fringe. Insert your crochet hook in one stitch from the wrong side to the front. Fold one length of yarn in half. Catch with the crochet hook and pull part way through the stitch.
Catch the 2 ends of the yarn and pull through the loop on your hook. Pull the ends snug.
Repeat down the length of the edge.
Hints and Tips
You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.
Because this is meant to be flat you’ll need to block or press it. Use your method of preference. A few tips on pressing – make a test piece to see how your yarn will react and adjust accordingly. I used acrylic yarns for my demo pieces. I made sure my iron was set to a low temperature. I then used a spray bottle to wet it on the WRONG side. I then pressed carefully on the WRONG side. Check the front as you press to make sure it isn’t flattening the stitches more than you want.
Your scarf halves don’t have to be the same length. If you know there is a particular way you want to wear it, such as very long, wrapped once around your neck and the ends hanging down, you may want the seam on one side instead of the middle, right in the front.
I made my brown scarf as an equal divide. I repeated from ▲ to ▲ 12 times more for a total of 13 sections. It’s long enough to wrap around my neck and dangle on each side just like in the photo.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
For this version of my fingerless gloves, I’m doing something different. Instead of starting at the cuff, I’m starting at the fingers and working to the cuff. Why? Because I’m starting to design gloves with 3D animals, characters, figures, designs, etc. Sometimes these figures can only be made from the bottom up and to do this, I needed to design a basic fingerless glove pattern. Because most of the figures are done with stockinette stitches, I wanted the figures to stand out even more. So, I designed the glove to be done with a garter stitch to contrast with the stockinette.
Whew! That was a lot of extra info you probably didn’t want. But now that you know the plan, you can check out my website to see when I start publishing the new gloves. It could be right away. It could be 6 months. We’ll see how it goes… (FYI I already did 😊 You can check out the hippo fingerless gloves by clicking the link – Super Cute Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mitts – FREE Knitting Pattern.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Basic Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy👈🏼 (40% off on Etsy until the end of March). The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. If a link isn’t working I either haven’t formatted and published it on that retailer, I am waiting for approval, or I forgot to come back and add the link.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. The seam runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches.
Things You Need
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
Size 4 mm (size 6 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
In garter stitch
20 rows = 5 cm or 2.5 inches
9 sts = 5 cm or 2.5 inches
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). I don’t usually design extra large gloves, but you’re smart. You can extrapolate from the sizes I’ve given. Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.
RIGHT Hand
Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)
Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K12 (14, 16, 18) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts. Click this link if you need help with casting on.
Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥
Row 34 – 36: Knit across
For the LARGE and X-LARGE
Next row: K0 (0, 16, 18) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts )
♥ Next 13 rows: K across
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
With the RIGHT side facing
Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat for a total of 10 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch the video below or click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.
Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥
Row 34 – 36: Knit across
For the LARGE and X-LARGE
Next row: K0 (0, 21, 22) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts )
♥ Next 13 rows: K across
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
With the RIGHT side facing
Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat for a total of 10 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
Hints and Tips
If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥ If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.
If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are don with the K1 P2 ribbing sections.
You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.
Watch the Helpful Video
If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
I really do like how well the owl motif worked on this hat! And surprisingly didn’t take much figuring or math once I wrote out the Basic Knit Flat Beanie. I did have to play around with how many rows tall to make the body and head. I didn’t figure it would stretch as much as it does but I’m happy with the final proportions.
And in case you haven’t found it on the website yet, I have a pair of fingerless gloves that have the same owl motif. There is the knit flat owl gloves that were designed specifically to match this beanie. There is also owl gloves that are knit in the round. The cuffs aren’t a perfect match but are seamless.
And happy day! The matching scarf pattern is done ☺️ If you would like to get started on the entire matching set, you can read the free, ad supported knitted scarf pattern here: How to Knit a Scarf – with OWLS! FREE Knitting Pattern
And for the last announcement, there is also a bucket hat with owls you can make! You can wear your owls all year long. 🦉If you would like to make the summer version with a brim, click this link – Knit Flat Bucket Hat – with OWLS! Free Knitting Pattern
This owl hat knit pattern is a fairly easy project to make if you have some knitting experience. I designed it to be flat, knit on 2 straight needles so more people would be comfortable in making it. Though the cabling can look intimidating, it really isn’t. I have videos on YouTube that will show you how if you’ve never done it before. I embedded videos in the pattern to help you along.
Make the beanie and gloves!
The choice of colour is yours as always. I included where to change colours if you would like to make one with 3 colours like I did for the brown and beige version I made. If you’re making a solid colour toque, you can ignore the notifications in the pattern.
As far as the use of a pom pom on the top… Some love it, some hate it. I know for myself, if I have to put my hood up, I hate them, but aesthetically, they do have their charms NGL. I have more information in the Hints and Tips section about the pom pom on the white and blue beanie.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)
5 mm (Size 8 US) single pointed knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends
14 or 16 buttons or jewels for eyes (see Hints and Tips)
Pom pom – you can make or buy these, or not use one at all.
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
Small and medium = 21 inches (53 cm) around
Large and Extra large = 24.5 inches (62 cm) around
Uses about 160 meters or 180 yards. Does NOT include pom-pom.
This pattern makes either 7 or 8 owls around. Each owl motif is about 3.5 inches (8.9 cm) wide if you follow the gauge given. You can adjust your stitches accordingly to make larger or smaller sizes than what I’ve given. Each owl motif uses 12 stitches. So, if you wanted it smaller by one owl cast on 74 sts (86 – 12 = 74)
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Beanie Hat. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
The Pattern
Cast on 86 (98) sts
♠ Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 10 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 11if desired.)
To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can click that link or watch the video here.
Row 11-15: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 15 if desired.)
Row 16: ♦ P2 K1 P8 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 2 sts. P2
Row 17: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2
If you don’t know how to cable you can watch these videos to show you how.
Row 18: ♥ P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ to the last 2 sts. P2
Row 19: K5 ☺ P4 K8 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to☺ 5 (6) times more. P4 K5
Row 20: As row 18
Row 21: As row 19
Row 22: As row 18
Row 23: As row 19
Row 24: As row 18
Row 25: As row 19
Row 26: As row 18
Row 27: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 28: ♦ P2 K1 P8 K1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 2 sts. P2.
Row 29: Knit
Row 30: As row 28
Row 31: Knit
Row 32: As row 28
Row 33: Knit
Row 34: As row 28
Row 35: ♣ K3 C4B C4F K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 36: as row 28 (Change colour at the START of row 37if desired.)
Row 37 – 40: Knit (Change colour at the START of row 41if desired.)
▲ Row 41: Knit
Row 42: ◘ P2 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ tot he last 2 sts. P2 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ for a total
of 22 (26) rows.
Next row: ♣ K2tog K1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ to the last 2 sts. K2tog
Next row: ◘ P1 K1 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ to the last st. P1
Next row: K2tog to the end of the row.
Next row: P across
Next row: K2tog to the last st. K1
Next row: P across
Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam using the blanket stitch. Add a pom-pom to the top if you like.
I used repurposed yarn for the pom pom on the white toque with the blue banding. Unraveling the slippers I had originally made, it left the wool in the crinkly state that occurs. I haven’t washed it so I don’t know if the fluffy/fuzzy look will stay, but I certainly do like the effect it gave to the final pom pom.
If you are using multiple colours for your toque, I suggest you Work in the Ends While You Knit. It saves you time in the long run. You can either click the link or take a photo of the QR code below to learn how.
Sew the seam using a blanket stitch to make it as invisible as possible. I added enough stitches along the sides so you can do this.
You can make the beanie fit closer to the crown of the head by not doing as many repeats of rows 41 and 42. You can also make it longer (taller and floppy) by doing more.
You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
I do loves me a good crocheted bracelet. Don’t ask me why…
This is a fairly simple bracelet to make and doesn’t involve any complicated or unusual stitches. If you have successfully completed other crocheted projects, this should be easy for you to make.
If you are looking to make some extra cash and sell these, which I’m always cool with btw, the cost to make these is next to nothing. You can purchase crochet cotton thread for very reasonable costs, and reuse buttons you’ve collected, found at second hand stores, or even for cheap at many big box stores.
If you’d prefer to download an ad free version of this pattern instead of reading it online, you can get it hereCrocheted Fans Bracelet. This crochet pattern is also available for download from my Etsy Shop and Ravelry if you are more comfortable using those retailers. If you like crocheted jewelry as much as I do, I have a number of other jewelry patterns, free and for sale, available.
If you are enjoying the free patterns and would like to see more, then please share my work social media! Those handy little icons down there ?? you do it easily and help me so much ?. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
Things you need:
1 ball ofcrochet cotton thread (Main colour)
1 ball complimentary colour of crochet cotton thread (accent colour or whatever you’d like the edging to be).
Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook.
A pretty button
Gauge:
It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. This pattern can be made as long as you like and you can easily adjust the length to what you want when you’re making it. Each fan adds approximately 3/16″ or 0.5 cm. Generally speaking, I make my bracelets approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length making 27 fans total
The 2 additional rounds added make it about 1/2 inch longer, so if you need a specific length keep that in mind. Another point to remember, is it will stretch a bit longer as the stitches relax over time or if you press it with an iron.
The Pattern:
Chain 4.
Row 1: With main colour of thread, 2dc in 1st ch. Ch2, 3dc in 1st ch of original ch 4 again. Ch3. Turn.
Row 2: 3dc in ch2 space of previous row. Ch2. 3Dc in ch2 space. Tc in the top of the ch3 of previous round. Ch3. Turn.
Repeat row 2 until work measures the desired length. Break thread.
Round 1: You’ll now be working in rounds going around the bracelet. With the start of the bracelet on your right and the last fan you made on your left and with the complimentary colour of thread, join with a sl st in any ch3 or tc space (counts as a dc). Ch2, dc in same space. *Dc in the top of the ch3 or tr of the fan (see photo A). 2 dc in next ch3 or tc space.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet ending with the 2 dc in the space ch3 or tc space. Dc in the top of each dc of fan. 5dc in the ch2 space of fan. Dc in the top of each dc. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Make 3 dc along the length of the dc or ch3 of the original fan (see photo B). 5Dc in the ch1 in the base of the original fan. Make 3 dc along the length of the dc or ch3 of the original fan. Repeat from * to * until at the beginning ch2 of this round. Join with sl st to the top of the 2nd chain. Break thread.
Photo A:
Photo B:
Round 2: Start with the first fan on your right and the last fan you made on your left. With the main colour of thread, and working in the back loop of each dc, join thread in back loop of any dc of previous round along the length. Ch1, sc in same st as join. Sc in each dc down the length to the 1st dc of the 5dc of the previous round. 2sc in the first dc of the 5 dc, sc in the next dc. Sc in the 3rd dc, ch10 (or how many you need to go around your button), sl st in the sc you just made. Sc in the 3rd dc again. Sc in the next dc. 2sc in the next dc. Sc in each dc down the length of the bracelet to the 1st dc of the 5dc of the previous round. 2sc in the 1st dc of the 5dc, sc in the next st. 3sc in the middle dc of the 5dc. Sc in the next st. 2sc in the next st. Sc in each dc until reaching the 1st sc of round. Join with sl st to first sc. Break thread.
No matter what, don’t stretch out the fan portion before you are finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.
To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making the bracelet. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches. Position the joins so there aren’t too many ends in one area.
You can use 1 to 3 colours to make this bracelet. I’ve included an example above with 3 colours. One colour works particularly well to highlight a button.
When making the loop to secure the bracelet, chain as many stitches as you think you may need. Sl st to the sc and pass the button through the loop. If it is too small, undo the sl st and add more chains. If too long, undo the sl st and take some stitches out. It’s easier to check now than later.
Abbreviations:
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
tc – treble (or triple) crochet
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.
If you love this pattern, be sure to check out my other bracelet patterns: Crocheted Waves Bracelet.
Like all my patterns, you are allowed to sell or give away any of the bracelets that you make, but you are not permitted to redistribute this pattern in any way.
I have wandered into the vastness of toque and/or beanie design once before. I designed the previous rendition a bit differently than the standard touque and used short rows. If you’re so inclined you can click this link to see the pattern – Winter Beanie Toque or Touque or Tuque with Vertical Stripes.
The reason for this very basic, knit flat on 2 needles design is because I want to add my spider, hippo and owl motifs to a toque. But to do that, I needed to create the base design to get the fit and style right. FYI I’m already working on the owls now that this knitting design is complete. It’s coming along swimmingly btw ☺.
I’ve added some notes to the end of the pattern to help you along if you want to do some basic modifications to the beanie like make it longer, bigger, smaller. Head size and taste varies from person to person and this may need a bit of tweaking to fit want you need or want.
I added links to how-to videos to help you along if you are a new knitter or just need a bit of extra help. (Click the link in the pattern to open a new window and watch. You won’t lose this page.) This pattern uses very basic stitches and has an easy seam to sew at the end making it a great pattern for newbies and super quick for those with more experience.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Basic Knit Flat Beanie. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The Kindle version is also on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)
US Size 8 (5 mm) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Tapestry needle to sew up seams
Pom-pom is optional (I found mine on Amazon but you can make yarn ones too).
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
9 sts – 5 cm (2″)
13 rows – 5 cm (2”)
Sizes are written as such:
S-M (L-XL)
Small and medium = 21.5 inches (55 cm) around
Large and Extra large = 23.5 inches (60 cm) around
If you want a longer touque, add more rows than what is mentioned in the pattern. Make more rows than the total of rows 11 and 12.
If you want a beanie that’s more slouchy with a looser weave, you can try using a larger size knitting needle (US size 10 or 6 mm for example). This changes the gauge making it bigger around the head. You’ll have to play with it a bit to figure out how many stitches you’ll need to cast on so it still fits the person’s head.
In saying that, if the hat is too small or too big, any combo of stitches 3x+2 will work. For example, if you need less stitches cast on because you want a looser weave, you may only need 74 sts. You get that with the following equation 3(24)+2=74. Twenty four repeats of the ribbing P2 K1 pattern (on the WRONG side) plus 2 extra P sts. Compare this to the large size that is 30 repeats of the P2 K1 ribbing pattern plus 2 stitches (total of 92 sts).
If you want to make this in child sizes, that’s also possible. As a quick reference, each rib section is about one inch or 2.5 cm if you match the gauge given for this pattern.
I’ve added the 2 stockinette stitches along the side so you can sew the seam easily using the blanket stitch and make it blend in to almost disappear.
Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Shocker. Another slipper design 😂 I really do like this style of slipper but after designing the basic moccasin slipper, I was thinking of ways that I can gussy it up a bit if you will. I liked the idea of doing ribbing around it, simply for the additional visual appeal. When I started I didn’t realize how complicated it would be to make the ribbing line up regardless of the sizing. But I gave it some thought, did the math and tahdah! The ribbed moccasins slippers have arrived.
Like the original design, this style of slipper is knit flat on straight needles. The only catch is that it use 2 sets of needles. Don’t worry though. I’ve added a number of photos to help you along. There’s even a few videos for specific stitches and techniques on YouTube if you need extra help.
If you would prefer a printable, ad-avoiding version, you can download the PDF version of this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults. You can also get it at a number of other online retailers such as Ravelry, CreativeFabrica, DeviantArt and Etsy. There is also the Kindle and Paperback versions available on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough).
2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. (You can watch the embedded video in the Hints and Tips section too).
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
The Pattern
Cast on 42 (46, 46, 50)
♠ Row 1: P across
Row 2: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows
♫ Row 9: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 9 (10, 10, 11) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).
Row 10: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ for a total of 10 (10, 12, 12) rows.
Next Row: Repeat row 9.
Toe Flap
Next Row: Pass the next 14 (16, 16, 18) sts on to a stitch holder. K1 M1 K12 M1 K1. Leave the remaining sts unworked on your non-working needle. Turn
♣ ☺ Next Row: P3 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. P1
Next Row: K across. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 12 (12, 14, 14) times more.
Repeat the row marked with ☺. 28 (28, 36, 36) rows for the toe flap.
Making the Sides
Next Row: Put the sts on the stitch holder back on a knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing and with your first needle, K14 (16, 16, 18). Pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the first st of the stockinette stripe and in the M1.
Right side of slipper
With your second needle along the sts of the toe flap, K2tog (To make it blend more into the slipper, pick up the first st as if to knit, twist this st and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit this and the next st together going from RIGHT to LEFT. You can also knit the 2 sts together as you normally would if you want.) K12 K2tog (as you normally would).
With your third needle, pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the M1 and the first st of the stockinette stripe. K14 (16, 16, 20).
Left side of the slipper. (I accidentally dropped the next 2 sts when taking the photo)
Your 3 needles will look like this
♥ Next Row: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 17 (18, 20, 21) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).
Next Row: K across ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 (3, 4, 5).
With the WRONG side facing you, cast off 30 (32, 36, 38) sts. (Maintain the P2 K2 pattern while casting off) P1 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. Cast off the remaining sts maintaining the P2 K2 pattern. Bind off
If you need more help than the photos provide below, you can watch the how-to video embedded here. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. The video is for a different style of slipper, but it is made EXACTLY the same way.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
Your slipper will look like the slipper above. (I’m using a similar design to more clearly show the cast off stitches.)
Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
ʤNext Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.
Next Row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Making the Heel
You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper by working on the 14 sole sts already on your needle, and picking up a st on each side of the needle.
I’ve made a specific video showing how to make the heel. It’s for a number of different styles, but it works the same for all.
Please note: the video decreases every other row. This pattern calls for decreasing EVERY row after the first one or two rows (depending on size). I’ve included photos but if you are still confused, please watch the video embedded below.
♠ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 0 (0, 1, 1) time.
◘ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up a stitch on the other side.
Next row: Knit across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the side. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Hints and Tips
I make my K2tog a little differently at the top of the toe only because how the t looks when you knit the two together can look off. I’m very picky though. It doesn’t really matter.
When picking up the first 2 and last 2 sts along the toe, you don’t have to go through the M1. Once again, I’m just overly particular about what it looks like. What works for you will be fine.
There is a lot of breaking and rejoining of yarn with this pattern. I have made a complete tutorial showing How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can watch the video right here.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how.
Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
Gussy it up or wear it plain, this crocheted hat pattern is extremely versatile and makes hats for nearly anyone. Anyone but my 14 year old son apparently, who said, with his usual unenthusiastic honesty, “I don’t like it but it fits OK”. How do I know this? I needed to borrow his head to see how the smaller size fit and felt when wearing, so I guess it’s at least fit approved ¯\_(‘~’)_/¯
This hat can be made a number of ways, either as a wider brimmed sun hat with a flower, plain with the brim shaped similar to a cowboy/cowgirl hat, or with a narrower brim to be a bucket hat. Any way you choose is going to be a success! It’s easy to make, and as long as you know the basics of crochet. Literally if you know how to chain, single crochet (sc) and do a slip stitch (sl st), you’ll be able to make the hat. The flower can be a bit more tricky but I’ve included many photos and detailed descriptions to help you along.
crochet sun hat – FREE crochet pattern
The hat is made with 2 strands worsted weight yarn (or one strand of super bulky yarn) and a larger crochet hook. The stitches need to be fairly tight so the hat will hold it’s shape. Anything larger than the gauge given will make it floppy and the sizing may not work out as written. But, like all my patterns, play with it! If you want a floppy hat, no one said you can’t.
There aren’t any specific measurements for the hat sizing. It’s all very general as there is some stretch to the hat when finished and will form to fit the head it’s covering. If you want your hat to fit a little looser, go for the bigger size.
The way I thought of it when I was designing this hat, if it fit the glass head, it’s a small/medium size. In other words, a regular sized head. If it fits me and looks a little too big on the glass head, it’s a large/extra large. Let me put it this way. I know I have a big head. If you have ever thought you too might have a big head because hats don’t always fit you, hello fellow large head! If this statement makes no sense to you, go for the small/medium.
If you are looking to make the flower and the leaves, they each have their own page on the website. This pattern turned into a bit of a beast as it is. Both patterns are included with the printable PDF version of the sun and bucket hat.
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If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook (or what ever size hook you need to get the correct gauge)
3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook for top edging, flowers and leaves (all optional)
2 balls Worsted Weight yarn or 1 ball Super Bulky yarn (for the hat itself)
For the sun hat you’l need:
106 gr or 3.7 oz each of the worsted weight colours (216 m or 237 yards)
or
173 gr or 6 oz Super Bulky yarn (170 m or 185 yards) of course it’s less yarn for the bucket hat.
Worsted weight yarn (for band, flowers, leaves and edging)
Stitch markers (at least 8 but it never hurts to have more. See Hints and Tips section)
Tapestry needle (to sew band and flowers, work in the ends)
Gauge
With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn
13 sts = 4”
14 rows = 4”
Check your gauge to obtain correct sizing and density of the final fabric created. The stitching needs to be tight to hold the hat shape.
Small/Medium
With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.
Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)
Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)
Round 8: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (66 sts)
Round 9: Sc around in the back loop.
Crochet in back of loop
Round 10-20: Sc around.
Round 21: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (77 sts)
***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch).
If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!
Round 22: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sc in the last st. (or crochet as many stitches as you have at the end of the round). (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).
Round 23: 4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around (Crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round but there should be 0).
Round 24: *10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. 2sc (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).
***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 31.
Round 25: 5sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 8sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).
Round 26: Sc around.
Round 27: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.
Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.
Round 28: Sc around.
Round 29: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 30: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.
Round 31: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.
Top or Crown Edging (Optional)
With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn…
In the loops left from Round 9, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.
Work in all ends.
Large/Extra Large
With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.
Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)
Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.
Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)
Round 8: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (63 sts)
Round 9: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (70 sts)
Round 10: Sc around in the back loop.
Crochet in back loop
Round 11-23: Sc around.
Round 24: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (84 sts)
***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch).
If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!
Round 25: *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to the beginning of the row. (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).
Round 26: 6sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 5sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).
Round 27: *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 3 more times.
***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 34.
Round 28: 6sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *12sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 13sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 7sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).
Round 29: Sc around.
Round 30: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.
Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.
Round 31: Sc around.
Round 32: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around.
Round 33: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.
Round 34: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a sl st. Tie off and break yarn.
Top or Crown Edging (Optional)
With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn…
In the loops left from Round 10, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.
Work in all ends.
Band (Optional)
With a single strand of worsted weight yarn and your large 6mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook:
Small/Medium – Chain 74
Large/Extra Large – Chain 79
In second chain from hook, sc in each chain. Bring the ends of the band together and sc in the first sc of previous row. Be sure not to twist. We are now working in rounds.
Round 2-3: Sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.
Working in the bottom loop of the original chains…
Work 3 rounds of sc evenly. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn. Work in ends. Attach to the hat sewing the bottom edge of the band to where the brim joins the hat.
Add flowers or other embellishments of your choice.
Click a button to go to the flowers and leaf patterns
Colour choice of the 2 different worsted weight yarns can make a huge difference to your final hat. I mixed 2 tones of one colour for the cowboy/cowgirl hat, white and beige for the yellow flower hat, camo and black for the camo bucket hat. Variegated yarns should be used with a solid colour of yarn for the best effect.
Stitch markers make this so much easier. Pieces of yarn also work. I like to use a single bobby pin to note where the round starts and use regular stitch markers for where I’m making the increases.
In regards to the stitch markers, if you don’t want to use the stitch counts given for the rows, you can use the stitch markers instead. Think of it as increase 8 times evenly around. I did the math to figure out what was even spacing and to stagger the increases between the rows around the brim for the crochet purists.
I like to move my start of the round stitch marker as I make each row (the bobby pin in the photos). I leave the increases for the brim where they are. It makes things go a little quicker and avoids keeping track of stitch counts.
Speaking of stitch counts. This is crocheted in the round, meaning if your stitch counts become a little off, too many or not enough between the increases, it will still work out in the long run. I gave the number of stitches between the increases mainly to avoid repeating increases along the brim. It looked very noticeable and unsightly to me when the increases in increases lined up, but I’m a bit of a stickler for things like that. If you could care less how it look, have at it!
Edging is done with worsted weight yarn! If you are using a double strand of worsted weight yarn, select one of the colours and go with that. If you are using Super Bulky yarn, you’ll need to use any complimentary colour of worsted weight yarn you like. You don’t need very much.
Why I made the band the way I did. It’s very easy to twist the band if you join the chain right away. It’s considerably easier to avoid this if you sc in each chain first then bring the ends together.
The cowboy/cowgirl hat is the sun hat but with the brim formed into a more familiar cowboy hat style.
The band on the cowboy/cowgirl hat has daisy chain embellishments. You can either embroider them on or use your crochet hook. Place your yarn at the back of the band and pull up a loop to the front. Push your hook through the next hole and pull up a loop. Keep going down the length of the band.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
I originally started this 3D animal adventure with my very popular owl gloves (both knit flat and knit in the round. Those are clickable links btw ☺) It then progressed on to my Spider Gloves and Autumn Leaf Gloves. I wanted to make a cat sitting down on a pair of fingerless mitts. Well, that didn’t turn out as expected but it is how these hippo gloves came to be. I’m still working on the cat gloves…
When making these, I realized that I couldn’t make it in the traditional way by starting at the cuff and working my way to the fingers. I had to go the opposite way to be able to make the arms, legs, body, head and ears. No problem. I rewrote the basic glove pattern. That’s over on Amazon as an exclusive. It will be put on my website eventually so check out this website to see if it’s here at KweenBee.com.
If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mittens, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Google Books, CreativeFabrica and the Kindle and paperback version are both available on Amazon. This is linked to the USA version. If you’re from anther country make sure you switch over to where you live.
Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. Because it is knit flat there is a seam that runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches. And also, the hippo will never fall off. It’s made as you make the glove by going back and forth and making formed bobbles. Other than the thumb, this is made in one piece.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
0.27 inch (7mm) wiggle eyes or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the hippo the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.
PLEASE Note!
I’ve added photos in the rows of the pattern that have trickier parts like making the bobbles, belly and decreases. If you are a seasoned knitter and don’t need the photos, I’ve written out the rows again without the photos. Regardless…you only need to knit each row once!
RIGHT Hand
Cast on 34
Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change colours, do so now.)
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts. K20. (47 sts) If you need help with casting on you can watch this video.
Row 14: Knit across
Row 15 (Feet): K35 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn).
3 sts in one st
Turn and purl
Done working the rows
Knit 3 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT
Stitch completed
K2,
Next 2 sts knitted and going to make another bobble.
Bobble 3 (as before),
Knit the 2 sts together in this bobble fromLEFTtoRIGHT
2nd bobble done
K8.
***Row 15 repeated without the photos***
Row 15 (Feet):K35Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOTturn). K2, Bobble 3 (as before), K8.
Row 16: K8 P4 K35
Row 17 (Belly): K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K9. (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches,
Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9. (51 sts)
Row 17 completed (for left hand)
***Row 17 repeated without the photos***
Row 17 (Belly): K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K9. (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row)K9. (51 sts)
Row 18: K9 P8 K34
Row 19: K across
Row 20: K9 P8 K34
Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.)
Insert your needle as if to knit
Place the loop on your working needle and twist
Place the st back on your non-working needle
Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT.
There is a video I made for another pattern that shows how to twist the stitch to get the nice edge.
K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right as you normally would.), K9. (47 sts)
***Row 21 repeated without the photos***
Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right as you normally would.), K9. (47 sts)
Row 22: K9 P6 K32
Row 23 (Arms): K31 Bobble 3, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K2, K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), Bobble 3, K8. (45 sts)
Row 24:K9, P4 K32
Row 25 (Neck): K14, K2tog K5 K2tog, K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left), K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) K9. (41 sts)
Row 26: K9 P2 K30
Row 27 (Head): K30 (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row), K9. (47 sts)
Row 28: K9 P8 K30
Row 29:K14, K2tog K3 K2tog, K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9. (43 sts)
Row 30: K9 P6 K28
Row 31 (Ears): K28 K2tog (as you did before) AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together).
Flip the st and K2tog from RIGHT to LEFT…
…and make 3 sts in the K2tog. Continue to make a Bobble 3 like before.
K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3,
Knit the 2 sts together from LEFT to RIGHT…
…and start the bobble 3 (3 sts in K2tog)
K9. (41 sts)
***Row 31 repeated without the photos***
Row 31 (Ears): K28 K2tog (as you did before) AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, K9. (41 sts)
With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change colours, do so now.)
*Row 39: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 40: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*
Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch this video.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change colours, do so now.)
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K20 Cast on 13 sts. K14. (47 sts)
Row 14: Knit across
Row 15 (Feet): K8 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). K2, Bobble 3 (as before), K35.
Row 16: K35 P4 K8
Row 17 (Belly): K9, (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9, K2tog K9, K2tog. K14. (51 sts)
Row 18: K34 P8 K9
Row 19: K across
Row 20: K34 P8 K9
Row 21: K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9 K2tog K7 K2tog, K14. (47 sts)
Row 22: K32 P6 K9
Row 23 (Arms): K8 Bobble 3, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K2, K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), Bobble 3, K31. (45 sts)
Row 24:K32, P4 K9
Row 25 (Neck): K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left), K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) K9, K2tog K5 K2tog, K14. (41 sts)
Row 26: K30 P2 K9
Row 27 (Head): K9 (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row), K30. (47 sts)
Row 28: K30 P8 K9
Row 29:K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9, K2tog K3 K2tog, K14. (43 sts)
Row 30: K28 P6 K9
Row 31 (Ears): K9 K2tog AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, K28. (41 sts)
With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change colours, do so now.)
*Row 39: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 40: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*
Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
Hints and Tips
While not necessary, I like to pull the arms closer together for a thinner neck and more noticeable belly. From the back, pass your needle to the front. Pass the yarn over the noticeable decrease stitch beside the arm and under the chest. Go up on the other side of the chest, catch the decrease stitch and pass through the hole next to the arm. Pull together as tight as you like. I leave a bit of slackness.
Catch the sts on the sides like this. Use the same colour as your hippo. I used a contrasting colour to showcase the sts.
Pull the yarn snug.
Tie off and work in the ends.
If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥ If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.
If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are done with the K1 P2 ribbing sections.
You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
K3tog – knit 3 sts together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly.
Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
The perfect knitting project for binge watching the latest series on Netflix and incidentally, how I developed this pattern. To Breaking Bad, if you must know. I’m sure Walter White would be proud. FYI this pattern was written back in 2015 so that reference was a lot more timely back then.
The pattern is easy to follow and repeats the same eight rows for the length of the scarf, which can be as long or as short as you like. If you have never knitted cables before, the pattern includes photos and instructions how to do it. By the time you’re finished this project, you’ll have mastered the art of the cable stitch, have a lovely scarf and hopefully have closure for all your favourite characters. Now in 2020, it’ll probably be something like Stranger Things.
If you need help with the pattern, you can view the complete how to from start to finish with my YouTube video: Knit a Cable Scarf (The video is embedded further along). If you know how to knit but need a little extra help with forming the cables, you can watch how to do the C2F, the C2B with my videos: C2F and C2B. Or if starting the cable pattern is giving you trouble, I have a video for that too: Starting the Cable Pattern. All the video links open to a new page so you won’t lose this one.
If you’re looking for more scarf/dishcloth designs I have a bunch of others you may be interested in. You can click any of the following links to check some of them out.
To get the pattern, click the button to open a new browser window. You can save this document to your device. It varies depending on what device (phone, tablet, computer) and what operating system you are using.
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If you are having a tough time finding what you need, click any of the links below to get everything you need to make this scarf.
200 gr of worsted weight yarn (This could be more of less depending on how long you want your scarf).
Size 5 (US size 8) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.
Cable knitting needle
Tapestry Needle – for working in the ends
Gauge
12 rows stockinette = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″
If your gauge is off your scarf will be either narrower or wider, but it really isn’t overly important for this project.
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And just so you know, this is one of the first videos I ever made. It is old. Try not to judge too harshly.
The Pattern
Cast on 40
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2-7: Sl st as if to knit. Knit across.
Row 8: Sl st as if to knit. K3 P32 K4.
Row 9: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 16 times. P1 K3.
Row 10: Sl st as if to knit. K3 (P1 K1) 16 times K4.
Repeat rows 9-10, 4 times more for an additional 8 rows.
🦊 Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K6 P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 K6 P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
🦋 Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K3 (P1 K1) 3 times. P6 K1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K1 P6 K1 (K1 P1) 2 times. K5.
🌸 Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times.C2F K2 P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 C2F K2 P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
Next row: Repeat row with 🦋
Next row: Repeat row with 🦊
Next row: Repeat row with 🦋
Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 (K1 P1) 3 times. K2 C2B P1 (P1 K1) 3 times. P1 K2 C2B P1 (P1 K1) 2 times. P2 K3.
Next row: Repeat row with 🦋 (🐌 end with this row when scarf is the desired length.)
Next row: Repeat row with 🦊
Next row: Repeat row with 🦋 🌸
Repeat rows from 🌸 to 🌸. These 8 rows form the cable pattern. End the cable pattern with the row marked with 🐌.
Repeat until the scarf is the desired length, keeping in mind that the finished edge adds another 2 1/2 inches on to the length.
Next rows: Repeat rows 9-10 6 times for a total of 12 rows.
Next row: Sl st as if to knit. K2 P1 K32 P1 K3.
Next rows: Repeat rows 2-7.
Cast off.
How to Make the Cable
C2F – Cable 2 forward
With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle
Pull the stitches towards the front of your work.
Knit the next 2 stitches.
Knit the stitches from the cable needle.
Knit the last 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2).
C2B – Cable 2 backward
Knit the first 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2.)
With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle.
Pull the stitches towards the back of your work.
Knit the next 2 stitches.
Knit the stitches from the cable needle.
C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C2B – Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
Sl st – Slip 1 stitch off
Hints and Tips
Be very careful to get the stitches right at the beginning when forming the cable pattern. Once the pattern become more set, it becomes easy to see where you need to purl and knit and what stitches form the cable.
The back of the cables are ALWAYS purl stitches and the stitch on either side of them is ALWAYS a knit.
The stitch at the beginning of each row is slipped off and not knitted. This gives the edges of the scarf less stretch and lets the scarf hold its edge through wear and washings. If you don’t want to and would prefer to just knit, that’s ok. Just be consistent whether you knit it or not.
The easiest way to make any cable pattern is to see the pattern as panels versus individual rows. Unfortunately, there’s no other way to write a knitting pattern other than rows. If you see the scarfs pattern as the knitted edge, the moss stitch panel (the K1 P1 portions), the cable, moss stitch panel, another cable, moss stitch panel, knitted edge, it becomes very easy to do.
I did end up making a dishcloth version of this pattern. Do I love it? No. Do I hate it? No. Would I make it again? No. To be square there isn’t many repeats of the cable. I did four. It looks ok. If I was to redo it, I’d use a smaller gauge needle for sure. I would also cast on with a smaller needle than what I was going to knit the rest of the scarf/dishcloth.
It ain't so great...
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
sts – stitches
C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C2B – Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
I came up with this crochet bracelet design years ago and have been selling the occasional one online for quite some time. They are a great little money maker too! It doesn’t cost much in either material or time so are a great thing to put on your table at the next craft fair you attend. I sell them in my online shop on Etsy. Right now, I’m focused on the moregothic, dark colour version. The lighter, more delicate ones are soon to make an appearance. I do alright with them. It’s one thing that people don’t know they want until they see them so I’m finding marketing a bit of a challenge.
This crochet pattern is short and simple. It’s also easy to make and is a great way to use up those awesome, one of a kind buttons that are just a bit too nice to get rid of but you don’t know what else to do with them.
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Without further ado, here’s the pattern so you can get your crochet on. And the link in case you’d like to download the ad free version of the pattern instead – Waves Bracelet Crochet Pattern.
A pretty button (doesn’t matter what size but bigger than your average dress shirt button)
Gauge:
It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. The pattern, as written, makes a bracelet that is approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length. If you’re so inclined, you can make this bracelet either longer or shorter in 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch increments. For example, if it is too long by 5/8 of an inch, then chain 6 less stitches (69 chains). If you needed the bracelet to be 3 cm longer, chain 12 more stitches than what the instructions give (87 chains).
The Pattern:
Chain 75.
Round 1: With main colour of thread, sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sc in each chain to the end. In the last chain, 5sc. On the opposite side (there is a small loop on the bottom of each sc you made down the chain), sc to the end of the chain. In the last chain 4sc. Join with sl st to the first sc made. Break thread.
Round 2: With complimentary colour of thread, join the thread in the 3rd sc after join of last round. Ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1. 2sc. * ch5, skip next 3 sts, 3sc * repeat from * to * 10 more times. Ch7, sc in middle st of 5sc of previous round. C7, skip next 3 sts, 3sc, repeat from * to * 11 more times. Ch7, sc in top sc of previous round. Ch7, join with sl st to 1st sc of round. Break thread.
Round 3: With main colour of thread, join in 1st ch5 loop of previous round. Working in the loop, ch2, 9dc. 10dc in the each ch5 and ch7 loop around. Join with sl st to top of ch2. Break thread.
Round 4: With complimentary colour of thread, and working in the back loop of each dc, join thread in back loop of the 5thdc of previous round. Ch1, sc in same st as join. Sc in each dc leaving the last dc of shell unworked. In this unworked dc and the 1st dc of next shell, sc2tog. (In other words, sc2tog between the last dc of this shell and 1st dc of the following shell. ) * 8sc, sc2tog * repeat from * to * 9 more times. 8sc. (You should be at the end of the bracelet between the shells) ch 10 (or however many sts you need to slide over your selected button). Sl st in sc just made forming a loop. Sc2tog in the last dc of this shell and in the 1st dc of the next shell. * 8sc, sc2tog * repeat from * to * 11 more times. 8sc. (You should be at the opposite end of the bracelet between the shells). Sc2tog over last and first dc of the end shells. Sc in remaining dc. Sl st to first sc made in the round. Break thread.
Sew button to the end opposite the loop as shown above.
The counts for how many time you repeat the * to * sections of rounds 2 and 4 will change if you’ve made the bracelet longer or shorter than the 7 inches than I wrote this pattern.
To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making the bracelet.
Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches. The joins are positioned along the pattern so there isn’t too many ends in one area.
You can use 1 to 4 colours to make this bracelet. Just because I’ve only shown examples with 2 colours, doesn’t mean you can’t try something different.
When making the loop to secure the bracelet, chain as many stitches as you think you may need. Sl st to the sc and pass the button through the loop. If it is too small, undo the sl st and add more chains. If too long, undo the sl st and take some out. It’s easier to check now than later. And always easier to sl st to the sc to make sure it’s a good length.
Made with large needles, these fingerless gloves are super fast to make if you know how to knit in the round. And really, knitting in the round isn’t difficult. But damn, it does look impressive when you’re knitting something using four needles. Not gonna lie. But with saying that, if you would prefer to knit this pattern flat on two needles like my Super Simple Fingerless Gloves or my Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves, please leave a comment at the end of this pattern.
But I digress. There are two styles you can make with this pattern. One has a plain cuff. The other has a double cuff. Both allow for your creativity to shine with yarn choice.
Because they are such a plain design, you can use any variety of colours to make these look awesome. Dare I say my favourite – variegated yarn – did wonders here… I really like how the splotching effect worked for the double cuff and how random the colours appeared when making the plain purl cuff with the beginning purl round.
These also are a great stash buster. You can use up the smaller quantities of yarn from other projects to make stripes. I used the self-striping yarn available at one of the big box craft stores to make my striped version. Be warned though. Not all self-striping yarn will work for this. It needs to be smaller sections of striping than most of the self striping yarn out there. If it makes for a great ombre shall or blanket, the striping is too wide.
As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here – How to Knit Basic Long Fingerless Gloves. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts, Etsyand Ravelry. Depending on how long ago I published this, the printable pattern may appear below.
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If you want them longer, you can add more rows between the decrease rows. So instead of 6 rows, you could do 8 or more. If you want them to go further up the arm, cast on more when starting. Multiples of four stitches seem to work out quite nicely and let you maintain the ribbing at the fingers. I do recommend that you decrease stitches down to what’s written for the various sizes. It keeps it from getting sloppy, and dare I say annoying, when they don’t fit properly at the hand.
Knitting 2 together, or the decreases, do form a bit of a seam. To keep this out of view and make it run less noticeably down the inside of the arm, the pattern is designed so the thumb hole is on either side of this seam for the left and right hand.
Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.
Round 21 – 26: Knit around
Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.
Round 28 – 33: Knit around
Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.
Round 35 – 40: Knit around
Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.
Round 42 – 47: Knit around
Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.
Round 49 – 54: Knit around
Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.
Round 56 – 67: Knit around
Round 68: Knit 2 (4,6). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round
Round 69: Knit 2 (4, 6). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).
Round 70 – 74: P1 K1 around.
Cast off.
Right Hand (Plain Cuff)
Cast on 28 (32, 36)
Round 1 – 6: Purl around
Round 7 – 19: Knit around
Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.
Round 21 – 26: Knit around
Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.
Round 28 – 33: Knit around
Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.
Round 35 – 40: Knit around
Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.
Round 42 – 47: Knit around
Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.
Round 49 – 54: Knit around
Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.
Round 56 – 67: Knit around
Round 68: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round
Round 69: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).
Round 70 – 74: K1 P1 around.
Cast off.
Left Hand (Double Cuff)
Cast on 28 (32, 36)
Round 1 – 6: Purl around
Round 7 – 15: Knit around (If you are going to change the colour of the yarn for the purl rows, knit round 15 with the new colour).
Round 16 – 19: Purl around
Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.
Round 21 – 26: Knit around
Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.
Round 28 – 33: Knit around
Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.
Round 35 – 40: Knit around
Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.
Round 42 – 47: Knit around
Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.
Round 49 – 54: Knit around
Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.
Round 56 – 67: Knit around
Round 68: Knit 2 (4,6). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round
Round 69: Knit 2 (4, 6). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).
Round 70 – 74: P1 K1 around.
Cast off.
Right Hand (Double Cuff)
Cast on 28 (32, 36)
Round 1 – 6: Purl around
Round 7 – 15: Knit around (If you are going to change the colour of the yarn for the purl rows, knit round 15 with the new colour).
Round 16 – 19: Purl around
Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.
Round 21 – 26: Knit around
Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.
Round 28 – 33: Knit around
Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.
Round 35 – 40: Knit around
Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.
Round 42 – 47: Knit around
Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.
Round 49 – 54: Knit around
Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.
Round 56 – 67: Knit around
Round 68: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round
Round 69: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).
Round 70 – 74: K1 P1 around.
Cast off.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – Knit 2 together
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away anything that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
The ultimate thick slipper knit with super bulky yarn on straight needles. These booties for adults (up to a man’s size 14) knit up quicker than the average slipper and are super cozy and long-lasting for the wearer. Who could ask for anything more? Ummmm, maybe a finished pair??? You can order a custom colour and size here – Double Thick Hand Knit Slippers
This pattern is the extra thick version of my Adult Moccasin Slippers pattern that has been so popular over the years. As a seller of slippers, many of my customers wanted extra thick versions. Who doesn’t want their slippers to last as long as possible, am I right? So I busted out my knitting needles and a pencil to redo the math. Now you can make the slippers with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, or one strand of super bulky yarn. Take your pick. But please note, you don’t need both. Choose one or the other.
And a note about the toe flap, this version uses a stockinette toe flap instead of a garter stitch. It was too thick and lumpy to be a garter stitch. But to make my life easier, I repurposed the photos from my original Moccasin Slipper pattern that has the toe flap as a garter stitch. I’m sorry if it causes any confusion. The technique to pick up stitches along he sides is exactly the same for both versions.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos and a how-to video to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me. You can use this link – How to Knit Moccasin Slippers. The only differences between this pattern and the demo video is the toe flap is done in stockinette and of course, double thick (or extra thick) yarn. The techniques are all the same.
There is a lot of breaking and reconnecting the yarn to create the different portions of the slipper: the cuff, toe, sides and sole. I’ve created a very succinct picture tutorial showing how to work in the ends as you go so there are fewer to sew in at the end. If you do it right, you’ll only have one, and that’s the length you leave at the end to sew up the heel seam. Here’s the link to see how – Working in the Ends While Knitting. This also a handy skill to have when knitting just about anything, tbh.
Things You Need
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.
Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) standard balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
or
Super Bulky yarn – 2 standard balls of ONE colour with matching lot numbers (90 yards/82 m).
One ball makes one slipper. There will be yarn left over from each ball.
2 sets of size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Stitch holder
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
13 sts – 10 cm (4″)
22 rows – 10 cm (4”)
Sizes are written as such:
Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
To Begin
Cast on 32 (34, 36, 38, 40)
ᴥ Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across ᴥ Repeat from ᴥ to ᴥ for 6 times more for a total of 8 rows.
☺ Row 9: Knit across
Row 10: Knit 11 (12, 13, 14,15) P10 Knit 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ one more time for a total of 4 rows.
Toe Flap
Row 13: With RIGHTside facing, transfer the first 11 (12,13, 14, 15) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 10 stitches(the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 11 (12,13, 14, 15) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 10 toe flap stitches only!
♠ Next row: Knit across
Next row: Purl across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more for 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) rows total.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 10 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12,13, 14, 15) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 10 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 11 (12,13, 14, 15) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12,13, 14, 15) stitches. Pick up 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) stitches on this needle)
With another needle, knit the 10 stitches of the toe flap. (10 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12,13, 14, 15) stitches on the next needle. (22, 24, 26, 28, 30)stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. As mentioned in the introduction, the photos have been repurposed from the original pattern. Your toe flap has less stitches across and is in stockinette.
You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used a double pointed needle to work my 10 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 10 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 8 (10,12, 14, 16) rows
There are 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
Knit 1 more row, if required, so the WRONG side is facing you.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 9 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Making the Sole
If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video below
The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. The video is for the original pattern, but is done EXACTLY the same way for this pattern.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (10 stitches).
Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle. This is the hardest of all the stitches to pick up.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
ʤNext Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (10 stitches).
Next Row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.
The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. Once again, this is from the original pattern, but the technique is done EXACTLY the same way.
You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.
ҨNext Row: With the RIGHTside facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (8 stitches).
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.
Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above
After you K2tog across, you’ll pick up a stitch here.
Stitch picked up at the end of the row.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch around the edge of the foot and sole, allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
If you want a straight or longer cuff at the top like in the original pattern, knit across on the right and wrong side for a garter stitch at the beginning after you cast on.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge. Theres a little knot nub along the edges that make it a bit easier to space evenly along.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.
Are you just learning to knit? Tired of making dishcloths and scarves and want to make something awesome? Here is something that will make you look like a pro when it comes to knitting. A total brag-worthy design that any knitting newbie can make.
I’ve written a bunch of beginner patterns for slippers, but never for fingerless gloves. It was a common request, but for some reason, I never felt compelled to do so. After a bit of false starts and redesigns, I’ve finally come up with a fingerless glove pattern that I am happy with. I’ve kept the seams to a minimum and placed the seam along the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb. If you’re not a fan of seams my other fingerless gloves and mitts knitted on dpn can be found here – Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS, How to Knit Texting Mittens, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves and How to Knit Flip Mitts.
These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches. If you need help with increasing stitches, there is a video showing how to increase when making the P1 and the M1.I also just made a video showing How to Use a Stitch Holder. You can click those links to watch the how-to videos. They are also embedded at the end of this page. Scroll to the bottom to watch.
I’ve also jazzed up this basic design a bit. If you want to knit owl gloves flat on 2 needles just like this pattern is, You can use this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to read the free knitting pattern online.
I’ve also written the pattern to fit different sizes – small, medium and large. Once again I’ll use the analogy of what fits my hand. I wear a medium rubber glove and the medium size fits my hand perfectly. I wash dishes and scrub my toilets. I wear gloves when I do. If you never wear rubber or latex gloves, this won’t make any sense to you, I guess. I’m only saying this because I have had complaints about my sizing references. I don’t live in a gloveless kind of world but I’m glad some people do. It always amazes me what some “Karens” feel the need to bitch about ? If you want to go to a specific size you can try these links. If I’ve done my code correctly, it should take you to the right point on the webpage:
I’ve made a PDF download for this pattern. I didn’t think it was going to be this long until I wrote it out. I made the decision to write each size and hand out separately to make it even easier for the new knitters out there who want to give this pattern a go. And btw, you can totally do it! To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and from this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. Available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
I also plan on making a how-to video for this. It will cover the medium size as that’s what most people order when I sell online. I always am hopeful I’ll get the videos done in a timely manner, but they’re always more work than I think they’re going to be. You can check out my other videos in the meantime with this handy link – KweenBee on YouTube – Janis Frank.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clocking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Gauge
This is important to follow for correct sizing.
2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts
2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows
If You Need Help with the M1 or P1
Scroll down to the end of the page to watch quick how-to videos showing how to do these simple stitches. There’s a video showing how to use a stitch holder too!
Things You Need:
You can click any link below to see what you need.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.
The purple fingerless mitts have 60 rows total between the garter stitch cuff and the start of the thumb gusset (Row 15 – 22). I don’t think I would increase much further than that. The glove itself isn’t very stretchy and won’t fit further up the forearm. Too much bunching may also make the glove push its way further down and off the fingers.
I used some self-striping yarn to make these. Not all striping yarn is created equal. Some of them are designed to stripe for larger projects and don’t really work for smaller projects like this. Though with saying that, you could always cut the yarn and start a new colour where you choose. You will have more ends to deal with, but I have a post that shows you How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. ?? This link will take you right there.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.
How to make one or M1 – Increase between stitches.
PM1- Make one (purl wise). Pick up the stitch as you did for M1, but purl the stitch as you regularly would. You can watch the video below.
And for those of you who are unsure of how to use a stitch holder, I made a quick little video that shows you how to do it without cutting the yarn. It’s a time saver for sure. No one likes working in ends if they can avoid it.
This is another version of my very popular Adult Moccasin Slippers. I thought I’d jazz these slippers up a bit by adding some details to the top of the toe with a striped eyelet/chevron combo. I also made the cuff a little longer to fit even more like a bootie. I like how the final product turned out and is very gender neutral.
Because of the request by many saying that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for FREE! Because I’m getting more people making donations throughBuy Me a Coffee and having moreWebsite Members and patrons onPatreon, I can bear the cost of offering a few free downloads on the site now. If the support continues, I’d like to make this the standard for all my patterns.
In addition to the printable patterns you can get when you support my work, I’m also adding shoutouts to all who contribute. I’ll show your name in my longer videos to thank you. If you’d like to see what I mean, I do it at the end of the video above.
So thank you to all for all your support! I really do appreciate it 😊 And here is the free download that anyone can get.
If you like the way this pattern downloads, this is exactly how it works when you become a Website Member. It’s another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons ?? to do so easily.
This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches, knit two stitches together, yarn over and pass a slipped stitch over, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.
There is a lot of breaking and reconnecting the yarn to create the different portions of the slipper: the cuff, toe, sides and sole. I’ve created a very succinct picture tutorial showing how to work in the ends as you go so there are fewer to sew in at the end. If you do it right, you’ll only have one, and that’s the length you leave at the end to sew up the heel seam. Here’s the link to see how – Working in the Ends While Knitting. This also a handy skill to have when knitting just about anything, tbh.
Things You Need
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support my pattern writing (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I tried using some for one of the test knits for this slipper. It didn’t work. The holes and the angled striping virtually disappeared among the splotches. Also, I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend. Besides, it’s also hard to match the striping up and you waste a lot of yarn.
So here is the stuff you need…
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
Use this product to make knitted slippers less slippery.
You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you needto obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)
To Begin – Cuff
Cast on 35 (37, 39, 41, 43)
Knit across for 9 (9, 9, 11, 11) rows.
Next Row: With the WRONG side facing, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), P13, K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).
? Next Row: K11 (12, 13, 14, 15), K1 Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass this stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle, as if to knit, taking care not to twist. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K11 (12, 13, 14, 15).
Repeat from ? to ? 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more. You’ll have 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) holes of the pattern made.
Break yarn when completed last row.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With RIGHTside facing, transfer the first 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn.
? The following stitch combination is worked over the next 15 stitches(the start of the toe flap with the eyelet and chevron stripe motif). K2 (Yes, 2) Pass the stitch you just knit back onto your non-working needle. Pass the next unworked stitch OVER the stitch you passed back. Pass the stitch back to your working needle. K4 YO K1 YO K4. Pass the next stitch over to your working needle. Knit the next stitch PSSO. K1 Leave the remaining 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked. You will have a line of garter (knit) stitches running along side the chevron stripes.
Next Row: K1 P13 K1. ?
The repeating rows are worked back and forth on the 15 stitch toe flap stitches only!
Repeat from ? to ? for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more times for a total of10 (11, 12, 13, 14)repeats. You’ll have 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) holes of the pattern made when counted from the beginning.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 15 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 15 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, transfer the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONEneedle. There are (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle).
With another needle, knit the 15 stitches of the toe flap. (15 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 10 (11,12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (30, 33, 36, 39, 42) stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used a double pointed needle to work my 15 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 15 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) rows
There are 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap
Making the Sole
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 14 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and pick up the first cast off stitch by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
This photo is taken from the right side.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).
Left edge
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (15 stitches).
Right edge
Next Row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side.
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.
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Making the Heel
I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you if the photos aren’t enough.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (15 stitches).
Next Row: Knit across.
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making the adult size of this slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers ☺)
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (You’ll have 13 stitches the first time you do this.)
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K3tog K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog K1 K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: K2tog K1 K2tog.
Next Row: K3tog.
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily. I’ve had a number of positive reviews on Etsy from my well-slippered customers.
Hints and Tips
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. There’s a pictorial on my website that shows you how. Here’s the link – Working in the Ends While Knitting.
Abbreviations
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
PSSO – pass slipped stitch over
YO – yarn over
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
This is the original version of my very popularKnitted Owl Slipper Pattern, Ultra Thick Slip On Bootie Slippersand Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults. I realized that not everyone may want owls on their slippers. That a more plain slipper was something that any man, woman or child would wear as “knitted slippers” without fear of judgement (and if you’re so inclined to experience that lack of judgment, you can now buy a finished pair here – Adult Moccasin Slippers or in my Etsy shop). I’m not sure about someone who’d judge someone wearing owl slippers, but that’s really not the point. And oh yeah. The child sizes are finished! If you would like to knit up a quick pair of the child version, you can read that pattern here – FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern for Children.
Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Adult Moccasin Slippers with a Cuff. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 🥰.
This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos and now a complete how-to video to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.
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Things You Need
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
In garter stitch
4” = 16 sts
4” = 40 rows
Sizes (are written as such)
Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)
Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
To Begin
Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42)
Knit across for 22 (24, 26, 28) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.
Toe Flap
Next row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches. Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!
Knit across for 42 (44, 46, 48) rows.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (32 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)
With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the other needle unworked for now. (14 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38)stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used a double pointed needle to work my 14 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 14 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows
There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Making the Sole
If you need help with the sole, you can watch the video. It starts right where you need it to.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
This photo is taken from the right side.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
♥︎ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).
Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.
Next Row: Knit across ♥︎
Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches .
You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper. If you need extra help you can watch the video. It begins playing at the exact spot.
♀️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count downtime same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.
Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above
After you K2tog across, you’ll pick up a stitch here.
Stitch picked up at the end of the row.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. ♀️ Repeat from ♀️ to ♀️ until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.
Abbreviations
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something.
To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work! A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely ?
I have a number of slippers that I’ve designed over the years and this basic design is one of my all time favourites. I’ve done a number of different styles including my Granny Slippers and Adult Bootie Slipeprs that are made the exact same way, but look slightly different because of the ribbing.
This pattern is a great place to start if you are ok with your basic knitting stitches, but want to try something new. If you’ve been toying with the idea of trying to knitting in the round, this is a great place to start. If you would like to learn with this pattern, I’ve embedded how-to videos into the pattern that demonstrate how easy it actually is. If you are a seasoned knitter, then these slippers will be super quick for you to make as there is nothing complicated about them.
If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there 👆🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.
If you like my patterns and want to print more, you can download this pattern and more when you become a Website Member works. Becoming a member is like being a patron of the arts. By supporting me for a small fee every month, you help support me to create more patterns for you to use. You also get access to the patterns in the members area. You can see how many pattern there are currently available in my Current List of Member Patterns. For more information on how you can support me and become a member, click the button below.
If you need help with any of the basic stitches used to make these slippers, there is a playlist on YouTube that will show you how. You can also use this link – Knitting for Beginners – Easy Knitting Videos to Learn Basic Knitting Stitches. It will take you to another page on this website where you can watch them all. A new page will open so you won’t lose this one 😊
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn — (215 yards/197 m).
Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Set of 4 double point needles (DPN’s) – Size 5 mm (size 8 US)
Row markers (optional. Pieces of left over yarn will also work).
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends .
13 (14,16, 17, 18) times more for a total of 28 (30, 34, 36, 38) rows.
Add row markers on both sides of the slipper. This makes it easier when picking up stitches to make the cuff.
Start Toe
♥ Next Row: (K2 P1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. K14 (16, 18, 16, 18) (P1 K2) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more.
Next Row: (P2 K1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. P2 K10 (12, 14, 12, 14) (P2 K1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. P2♥
Repeat from ♥ to ♥ for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more times for a total of 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) rows for this section. You have a total of 48 (52, 58, 62, 66) rows from the cast on edge.
End Toe
Next Row: (K2tog P1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. K2tog 7 (8, 9, 8, 9) times (P1 K2tog) 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more.
Next Row: (P1 K1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. P1 K5 (6, 7, 6, 7) (P1 K1) Repeat 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) times more. P1.
Next Row: K1 K2tog 5 times. K0 (1, 0, 1, 0) K2tog to the end of the row.
Next Row: P5 (5, 5, 6, 6) K2 (3, 3, 3, 3) P to the end of the row.
Draw through to pull the stitches together.
Make the Heel
If you need a little extra help with this part, the video will show you how to do it. You can either click this link – How to Make the Heel or you can watch the video below.
With the RIGHT side facing, pick up 12 (14, 16, 14, 16) stitches along the cast on edge
♦ Next 2 Rows: K across.
Next Row: K2tog. K to last 2 sts. K2tog. ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until there are 4 sts on your needle.
Next Row: K2tog twice.
End with the yarn on the left side of the row when the right side of the slipper is facing you. You may need to knit one more row.
Make the Cuff
If you want to make the cuff a different colour from the foot portion of the slippers, break your yarn and start with the new colour now.
There is also a video showing how to pick up the stitches to make the cuff if you are unfamiliar with knitting in the round. You can use this link – How to Make the Cuff or watch the video below.
With the RIGHT side facing and using your DPN’s, pick up 34 (37, 40, 43, 46) sts evenly around the edge of the slipper. You will now have 36 (39, 42, 45, 48) sts total. (As long as the final number of sts picked up is divisible by 3 your cuff will work. Pick up the same number of sts on both feet of course!)
Round 1-6: K2 P1 around
Round 7-10: K around.
Hints and Tips
Be sure to cast your stitches off loosely when making the cuff. It needs to be able to stretch when going over the top of the foot and the heel. It’s the widest part the slipper has to pass over. The ribbing will snap it back to tighten up on its own.
Make the cuff as long as you like with the K2 P1 ribbing. I made it 6 rows but you may want it longer, especially for the larger sizes.
When casting off for the heel, if you need an extra row to end it so the yarn ending on the left with the right side facing (if right you are handed), that’s ok. When knitting this part, I often lose track of how many rows I’ve knitted between the row with the decreases. I’ve never had a complaint yet.
Don’t feel that the cuff needs to be the same colour as the slipper itself. A nice change is to make the cuff in a complimentary colour, especially if you have used variegated yarn. You can also use this pattern to use up some of your left over wool by making the toe (ribbed section) a different colour also.
This is also a great pattern to use if you have a variegated or any other colour changing yarn. Because there isn’t any specific stitch pattern other than some ribbing, it allows to show off the colours really well.
The inspiration of this pattern came from my previous Spider Fingerless Gloves pattern. I really like incorporating the design into the final wearable piece. I’ve always liked the leaf pattern and this seemed to be a great way to use it.
There isn’t a full-on how to for this pattern, by I have included helpful videos to show you how to do certain parts of the pattern. These will certainly help with any of the tricker parts like knitting the wrong side of the YO K1 YO and drawing the edges of the leaves together to a point. Click the link and it will open and automatically play the YouTube video.
If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there 👆🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.
If you like my patterns and want to print more, you can download this pattern and more when you become a Website Member works. Becoming a member is like being a patron of the arts. By supporting me for a small fee every month, you help support me to create more patterns for you to use. You also get access to the patterns in the members area. You can see how many pattern there are currently available in my Current List of Member Patterns. For more information on how you can support me and become a member, click the button below.
This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles in stockinette.
2” (5 cm) – 10 sts
2” (5 cm) – 15 rows
Things You Need
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Worsted weight yarn – any standard size ball will do
Cable Needle – There are a number a styles but I prefer the hook version
Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin
Tapestry needle
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the leaves the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
If you are making the small or large size glove, check the gauge for the size 6 US (4 mm). Adjust to the size of the needles to obtain the correct gauge. If you are making the large size, increase your needle size by a size US (mm). For example, you need to use a size 7 US (4.5 mm) to get the correct gauge, use size 9 US (5.5 mm) knitting needles for the large. If you are making a small, use size 5 US (3.75 mm).
To know what size you should make, you can use the infographic below on how to measure your hand, or the hand of whomever you are making them for.
Abbreviations are at the END of the Pattern
Left Hand
Cast on 34
Row 1: (P1 K2) Repeat to last st. P1
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to last st. K1
♥ Row 3: (P1 TB) Repeat to last st. P1
Row 4: As row 2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 3 times more. (Counts as rows 5-10).
Row 21: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P5 (39 sts)
Row 22: K5 P7 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (39 sts)
Row 23: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K3 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) P5 (37 sts)
Row 24: K5 P5 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (37 sts)
Row 25: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P5 (35 sts)
Row 26: K5 P3 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (35 sts)
Row 27: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P6 YO K1 YO P2 K1 P2 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P5 ( 37 sts)
Row 28: K8 P1 K2 P3 K23 (37 sts)
Row 29: P23 (K1 YO) twice. K1 P2 K1 P8 (39 sts)
Row 30: K8 P1 K2 P5 K6 M1 K3 M1 K14 (41 sts)
Row 31: P25 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P2 K1 P8 (43 sts)
Row 32: K8 P1 K2 P7 K25 (43 sts)
Row 33: P14 PM1 P5 PM1 P6 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right ) P2 C1F P7 (43 sts)
Row 34: K7 P1 K3 P5 K27 (43 sts)
Row 35: P27 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left ) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P3 K1 P7 (41 sts)
Row 36: K7 P1 K3 P3 K6 M1 K7 M1 K14 (43 sts)
Row 37: P29 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P3 YO K1 YO P7 (43 sts)
Row 43: P37 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P7 (49 sts)
Row 44: K7 P5 K37 (49 sts)
Row 45: P14 Pass the next 13 sts of the thumb gusset onto a stitch holder. P10 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P7 (34 sts)
Row 46: K7 P3 K24 (34 sts)
Row 47: P24 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P7 (32 sts)
Row 48: K across
Row 49: P across
Row 50: K across
Row 51: P2tog (K2 P1) to the end of the row
☺Row 52: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1
Row 53: (P1 TB) Repeat to the last st. P1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once.
Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.
Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder with the WRONG side facing you. (See hints and tips for more info).
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Cast off on the RIGHT side.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Row 21: P5 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (39 sts)
Row 22: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P7 K5 (39 sts)
Row 23: P5 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left). K3 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (37 sts)
Row 24: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P5 K5 (37 sts)
Row 25: P5 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (35 sts)
Row 26: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P3 K5 (35 sts)
Row 27: P5 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P2 K1 P2 YO K1 YO P6 PM1 P1 PM1 P14 ( 37 sts)
Row 28: K23 P3 K2 P1 K8 (37 sts)
Row 29: P8 K1 P2 (K1 YO) twice. K1 P23 (39 sts)
Row 30: K14 M1 K3 M1 K6 P5 K2 P1 K8 (41 sts)
Row 31: P8 K1 P2 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P25 (43 sts)
Row 32: K25 P7 K2 P1 K8 (43 sts)
Row 33: P7 C1B P2 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P6 PM1 P5 PM1 P14 (43 sts)
Row 34: K27 P5 K3 P1 K7 (43 sts)
Row 35: P7 K1 P3 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P27 (41 sts)
Row 36: K14 M1 K7 M1 K6 P3 K3 P1 K7 (43 sts)
Row 37: P7 YO K1 YO P3 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P29 (43 sts)
Row 43: P7 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P37 (49 sts)
Row 44: K37 P5 K7 (49 sts)
Row 45: P7 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P10 Pass the next 13 sts of the thumb gusset onto a stitch holder. P14 (34 sts)
Row 46: K24 P3 K7 (34 sts)
Row 47: P7 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P24 (32 sts)
Row 48: K across
Row 49: P across
Row 50: K across
Row 51: P2tog (K2 P1) to the end of the row
☺Row 52: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1
Row 53: (P1 TB) Repeat to the last st. P1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once.
Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.
Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder with the WRONG side facing you. (See hints and tips for more info).
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Cast off on the RIGHT side.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.
Everything between and including the PM1 and M1 stitches form the thumb gusset.
When you are making the thumb, you MUST pick up the stitches from the wrong side. Pass the stitches from the stitch holder to the knitting needle then onto the other knitting needle so the wrong side facing you. If you don’t do the second pass, you’ll get a weird line.
Leave the cast off end of the finger cuff and the thumb longer so you can use it to sew up the seam along the side of the gloves and seam of the thumb, respectively.
The striped ombre versions of the gloves are done with Loops & Threads “Facets” yarn you can find at Michaels (as of the printing of this pattern). It’s thin for a worsted weight yarn and I needed to use a 4.5 mm set of dpn’s to get the sizing correct. Make sure to check your gauge and adjust accordingly!
Please be aware that these gloves look like the leaves are off center when they’re not being worn. I actually redesigned them so the motif would be 2 stitches over because when they were on, they looked too close to the thumb. Sometimes designs are weird and the center of the design visually isn’t the middle of the design mathematically or functionally. Ahhh! The joys of art…
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
YO – yarn over
TB – Pick up the stitch with your stitch holder. Hold the stitch at the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the stitch holder.
C1B – Cable 1 back. Pick up next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the BACK of your work. Knit the next stitch. Purl the stitch on the cable needle. This was for the Spider gloves but is the same for this pattern.
C1F – Cable 1 forward. Pick up the next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the FRONT of your work. Purl the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. This was for the Spider gloves but is the same for this pattern.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would. Watch this video to see how.
K2tog – How you do this depends where you are in the pattern. If you are making the right side of the leaf, knit right to left. If you are making the left side of the leaf, knit left to right. If you do it this way you eliminate the twisting of the stitch and the edge of the leaf flows evenly.
The k2tog are given for RIGHT handed knitters. If you are knitting left to right as a LEFT handed knitter, reverse the order that you knit the stitches together. K2tog from left to right then pick up, twist, knit from right to left.
Sl St – slip the stitch
PSSO – pass the slipped stitch over.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or duplicate this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Make your own conversation piece when you knit this funky and original monster purse. Think a monster purse is a “bit much”? You can use the same design without the eyes and appendages and have a really cool fluffy purse. Still guaranteed to get you the occasional comment and looks of envy.
I’ve made this pattern as simple as possible with the least amount of sewing necessary (my least favourite thing to do). It doesn’t even need a zipper, as I designed it to have a flap to fold over and hold in your valuables securely.
The pattern is fairly simple and easy to follow, but in case you have a hard time with the fluff stitch, I made a video which shows the technique. In case you don’t have access to wifi, I also provided pictures and descriptions on how to make the fluff stitch. The pictures are at the end of the pattern with the video just a scroll or two away..
If you like, you can download the pattern as a PDF from my website!
Like the free videos and patterns? Then please share my work! Those handy little icons below 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free learn, how you can Help Support My Work.
If you like how this pattern opens and how easy it is to download, this is exactly how the patterns available through my Member Area works. Becoming a member is like being a patron of the arts. By supporting me for a small fee every month, you help support me to create more patterns for you to use. You also get access to the patterns in the members area. You can see how many pattern there are currently available in my Current List of Member Patterns. For more information on how you can support me and become a member, click the button below.
FS = Fluff Stitch. This is the loop stitch and is described in detail after the tips and hints. You can also watch the video here:
Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need. The tension for this project is:
10 stitches = 2 inches
14 rows = 2 inches
Because there is no sizing to a purse, the tension isn’t overly important. A little tighter or loser won’t make much difference to the final product.
Sew seams down the back and bottom of the purse. Work in the ends.
Arms and Legs (make four)
Cast on 6 sts. (Leave a long cast on end to use to attach the arm or leg)
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3 – 18: Repeat rows 1 and 2.
Row 19: K K2tog twice K
Draw yarn through and pull tight.
Work in the draw through ends. Attach legs and arms to the body as you see fit.
Strap
Cast on 6 sts. (Leave a long cast on and cast off ends to use to attach the strap)
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Repeat rows 1 and 2 until the length you desire. With RIGHT side facing, cast off.
Hints and Tips
You don’t need to sew up the seams of the legs, arms or the strap. The way that it’s knit causes the swatches to roll up on their own.
The top will automatically roll too! The casting off finishes the edge.
When making the strap, remember that the knitting will stretch. Make it shorter than you want the final length to be. Give the strap and the legs a good tug to make them roll up even more.
You can line the purse with any sort of material. A piece of material from an old t-shirt would do nicely.
The top flap can be as long or as short as you like. I wrote the pattern for it to be 30ish rows long but it doesn’t have to be. If you’re comfortable with making it shorter and adding a zipper, you can always do that too.
You don’t need to make a monster. You can skip making the arms and legs and instead of making the empty places for the eyes in rows 22 and 24, make the FS in all 23 stitches.
To make the Fluff stitch (FS): Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up & over) CLOCKWISE around the needle and the index finger of your LEFT hand TWICE. Leave these loops on your finger until you are finished knitting the entire stitch!
Wrap the yarn ONCE around the needle only.
Pull all 3 loops of yarn through stitch as knitting a regular stitch.
Insert the needle in your LEFT hand through these three loops and transfer these 3 loops onto the LEFT hand needle.
Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.
Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.
I went ahead and did it again! Combined all of my current genre of patterns into a single collection. I find that this is a really good way to get my work out there. People seem to be more inclined to buy a collection of multiple patterns, especially when buying a paperback book, than single patterns. It makes sense. You get more value for your buck.
So in this latest collection, I’m offering seven of my dishcloth patterns. When the virus time was running its course years ago, I went on a bit of a dishcloth design rampage. That’s when I came up with a bunch of these.
This summer, I realized it was time to update some of my pattern photos. They were looking a bit dated and now that AI has made taking good photos easier than ever before, it seemed like a no brainer. Like always, a quick update turned into expansions. Some of the patterns were made into other things like scarves, and smaller things like coasters or scrubbies. A few even got updated videos embedded into them. I kinda just went with it.
Don’t forget to SHARE this page 👆🏼
To get the collection, you can go to a number of places. These are all the where you download the PDF of the patterns and print it yourself. The Amazon links are for both the Kindle (which you can’t print) and for the paperback version. Make sure you order the paperback from your country. You’ll save on shipping and duty fees this way.
Like always, the patterns are all still free to read online. All of them are also available for sale individually through all my retailers like Etsy, Ravelry, Amazon, and this website. The titles listed below are also clickable links that will take you to the FREE versions here online.
There’s an ongoing issue that I want to address. I get emails (social media comments and reviews) similar to the ones I included below, on a weekly basis. I think it’s time I let everyone know how hurtful and demoralizing it is to receive these messages.
A direct email I received.
This was posted publicly by this person on my YouTube video. They knew it would be public. That’s why their username is visible.
For years, I have been designing and writing knitting (and a few crochet) patterns and publishing them through various distributors. One of these has been my website. It’s gone though many iterations over the course of my career but my patterns have ALWAYS been free to read online. I make my designs accessible to EVERYONE. They are the complete patterns with links to how-to videos, photos and more. I do this so anyone can access my work. No strings attached. No login required.
Yes, they are ad supported. I also advertise what I make through other marketplaces like Amazon, Etsy, etc. It’s how I can make a living from doing this without charging users directly. I see it as a win-win for everyone. But here is where the problem lies. It’s the printing of my patterns…
I had to disable printing on my website because people would print off everything on my site, without so much as a thank you. My work that I had literally spent weeks designing and more weeks into formatting and publishing. Yes. It does take that long.
To offset the loss of ad revenue from the “print users” not being on or returning to the website, I charge a small fee ($3 USD) to print my patterns. I chose this price keeping in mind that a standard ball of acrylic yarn available at a big box store is a little less than $4. This is the yarn users need to make my patterns. I didn’t think it was too much to ask for my work. Apparently, to some, it is. And somehow translates into accusations like those in the attached email and YouTube comment. Messages that illicit some strong emotions in me. But I digress.
Tbh, these comments are completely inaccurate. Printing of the patterns isn’t necessary. You can pull up my website on your phone or tablet and scroll along with the pattern as you knit. Wanting a paper copy is a preference, not a requirement to read the pattern.
The impetus of making this post is how I continually feel like I need to defend the choices I make in how I disseminate my patterns. I’m tired of defending my right to be financially compensated for my work. I shouldn’t be berated over a $3 purchase or membership subscription fee because someone doesn’t want to scroll down a webpage to read the pattern. Or even worse, being accused of lying that the patterns aren’t free. If you can read it in its entirety, how is that not free?
In short…Please stop sending me messages like this.
For the sake of my mental health, I will selectively acknowledge or respond to the selfish, entitled haters. If you don’t like it, don’t use my work. It’s the simplest solution to the “problem”.
If you’re reading this, I probably sent you the link in response to your very unnecessary message. Keep that in mind when you feel the need to “reach out” to creators on the internet. We’re real people. What you said was hurtful. And untrue.
But if you stumble upon this inadvertently and are a supporter of my work, thank you soooo much! To those who have purchased my patterns and given me great reviews; you are why I keep going and I truly thank you!!
TL;DR – Stop bitching about my patterns not being free or about the ads. You CAN read them for free on my website. I’m allowed to profit from my work.
This is a great project for anyone who is just learning how to knit. It’s not an overly complicated project and the yarn is easy to find and not too expensive. Best of all the final result gives you something you can use, even if it doesn’t turn out perfectly ?
If you are a new knitter, I’ve added links demonstrating how to do each of the stitches necessary for this project. I would recommend that getting the basics down first with a swatch or two, then getting into this project.
I am trying something new with this pattern. Years ago I tried to offer my patterns for free to download. I was taken advantage of at that time. People would download the patterns to never return. I can now embed scannable QR codes in my work and want to see if people come back to the website once they’ve downloaded the pattern and printed it off for themselves. We’ll see how it goes. If it turns out that people do come back and share this pattern with their followers on social media, I may do this with other patterns.
Use these 👇🏼 to share on social media 🥰
If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there 👆🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.
The Pattern
If you would like to read the pattern online, keep scrolling down the page. Otherwise, you can download this FREE knitting pattern right here. 🥰
If you like how this pattern opens and how easy it is to download, this is exactly how the patterns available through my Member Area works. Becoming a member is like being a patron of the arts. By supporting me for a small fee every month, you help support me to create more patterns for you to use. You also get access to the patterns in the members area. You can see how many pattern there are currently available in my Current List of Member Patterns. For more information on how you can support me and become a member, click the button below.
I use a size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles but this can be done with whatever size you like. The size of you needles will determine the final size of your dishcloth. You will also need one ball (42.5 g or 1.5 oz.) of crafter 100% cotton yarn. They are available in a variety of colours just about everywhere. Look for sales or buy a big ball if you plan on making a lot of dishcloths. And don’t forget about Amazon! There’s always a great selection of 100% cotton yarn there.
The dishcloth itself is knit along the diagonal, like how TVs are measured. You can make it as big as you want, but I find 45 to 50 stitches makes for a good sized cloth. If you would like it larger, you will need to buy more balls of yarn. Make sure that your lot numbers on the balls you select are the same or else the colours may be off.
You can make variations of this basic pattern by making wider edging: Instead of K1 before the YO you can K2 or K3. You could also make the center as a stocking knit stitch (purl one row then knit the next).
Feel free to use this pattern to make your own dishcloths to sell or give away. Just don’t reprint this pattern in any form without my permission, but linking to it and sharing is always appreciated!
If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.
This simple technique is something that I’ve been meaning to share for quite sometime. And since I’ve received a number of comments regarding the number of ends for my Owl Slippers and Moccasin Slippers, I realized I needed to get on this ASAP.
I finally made the video! It shows how to work in the cast on end, work in the yarn at the start of the row if making stripes and how to join a new ball in the middle of a row and leave NO hole. I left the photo tutorial further down this page if you prefer that way of learning.
And I still don’t have instructions for left handed people. I’m so sorry about that. I’m right handed so it’s what I have to work with.
Step 1:
With the right side of your work facing you, put your needle through the stitch as if you were to knit. With the end at the back of your work, lay the end over your working needle. With your left hand, hold the end snug, not tight.
Step 2:
Place the working yarn over the needle as you normally would and knit the stitch. Do NOT catch or pull the end through while knitting the stitch.
Drop the stitch from the non-working needle as you normally would.
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Step 3:
Drop the end (or hold out of the way) and knit the next stitch.
Repeat steps 1-3 for roughly 10 stitches. With this technique you are alternating in order to catch the end between the stitches at the back of your work as shown below.
What it looks like from the wrong side.
View from the front. Can’t see the end at all!
When you are done, pull the end so it is snug. It’ll take up any slack that’s between the stitches you skipped. Before I trim it off, I always stretch the final piece to make sure there is just enough slack to ensure there’s no puckering.
If you need a little more security, you can always give an additional back weave with a tapestry needle to catch the end of the end a bit, but I don’t.
And yes, this does keep the yarn in place even with 100% acrylic yarn. I’ve made a number of slippers with the ends worked in this way and an afghan. I’ve washed the afghan a number of times with no issue whatsoever.
I hope this helps speed up your work. I hate sewing in ends just as much as the next person and anything that lessens the number of them is worth a huge ?? in my books.
And I also haven’t had much success doing this with purl stitches. If you have any ideas, by all means, let us know in the comment section.
The K1 P1 ribbing that I do for the cuffs of my Owl Fingerless Gloves works well using this method, too. Catch the end on your knit stitch and purl the purl stitch as you normally would. Because it is right on the cuff and needs to stretch and contract, I do catch the end a bit with a tapestry needle just to give it a little extra security.
As the title suggests, this is my latest knitting pattern compilation. This is the 3rd one I’ve done! I sometimes can’t believe how many slipper patterns I’ve written. It’s a bit crazy. If you’re interested you can see both my Seven Slipper Patterns and Eight Slipper Patterns. Click either of those links if you would like to read more. Keep scrolling for where to get this knitting collection including AMAZON!
This collection is nearly all of my latest slipper patterns. I am always designing, so depending on when you read this there may be many more. In short, the following patterns are included here:
All of the pattern listed above are free to read on my website. You can click any title and it will take you directly to the pattern.
And now for why I really made this post. You can now purchase this knitting compilation from a variety of sources! Of course you can always get the printable PDF version from the ever trusted Etsy – Seven Slipper Styles for Cozy Feet – Knitting Patterns Please be warned that when you print it yourself it’s 74 pages long. Not my longest but it is a bit.
You can also buy the pattern here from my website. It’s the same PDF as the one on Etsy but I understand that some people feel sketched out buying from websites. Anywho, you can find that here – Seven Slipper Styles for Comfy Feet – Knitting Patterns
If you would like to have the paperback version sent to you, I have it available to my readers on Amazon! If you have Amazon Prime your shipping is FREE as long as you make sure you order it from your correct country. Be sure that you click on the country closest to you from the list below:
Unfortunately, this isn’t available in Australia yet. It’s a new listing and sometimes it take a while for me to be able to sell my paperbacks there. I don’t get it either but it’s what I have to work with.
I do sell through another paperback distributor that helps to get my work onto other websites like Walmart and Target and into libraries and such. Once I have those links, I’ll post them here.
This pattern is one of the first patterns that I ever wrote; over 10 years ago now! And though it wasn’t a bad pattern as it was written, over the years I saw some things that I wanted to change. The sizing was fairly general. I wanted to make it a little more tailored to the various sizes and simplify how it was written.
I also wanted to increase the sizes. Though I don’t get many requests for sizes larger than a man’s size 12, I thought I’d make it larger in case there are those who wanted it. It’s simple math so figured I might as well add it.
I also wanted to make the sole thicker. It was originally done as a stockinette, and I always feel a garter stitch sole wears better. I’m hoping that with the rougher, garter stitch sole, the slippers will be a bit more grippy; on carpet anyway.
And last but definitely not least, I’ve made a YouTube tutorial showing how to make these slippers from start to finish. It includes everything from cast on the stitches, to sewing up the seams at the end. And of course, the trickiest part, picking up the heel and making the cuff. This actually isn’t that hard once you see how to do it. Below, I’ve embedded the video so you can watch it right here!
If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there 👆🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Repeat from ✬ to ✬ 13 (14,16, 17, 18) times more for a total of 28 (30, 34, 36, 38) rows.
Shape toe
❤︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, P1 ❂ K1 P1 ❂ Repeat from ❂ to ❂ 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) more times. K12 (14, 14, 16, 16) P1, ✿ K1 P1 ✿ Repeat from ✿ to ✿ 5 (5, 6, 6, 6) more times.
Next Row: ☻ K1 P1 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) more times. K10 (12, 12, 14, 14) ☀︎ P1 K1 ☀︎ Repeat from ☀︎ to ☀︎ 6 (6, 7, 7, 7) more times.❤︎
Repeat from ❤︎ to ❤︎ 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) more times for a total of 20 (22, 24, 26, 28) rows for this section. You have a total of 48 (52, 58, 62, 66) rows from the cast on edge.
End Toe
Next Row: K2tog 10 times. K1 K2tog to the last st. P1.
Next Row: K1 P7 (7, 8, 8, 8). K 5(6, 6, 7, 7) P to the end of the row.
Next Row: K1 K2tog 5 times. K0 (1, 1, 0, 0) K2tog to the last st. P1.
Next Row: K1 P4 K2 (3, 4, 4, 4) P to the end of the row.
Draw through to pull the stitches together.
Heel and Cuff
If you need a little extra help with this part, the video will show you how to do it. You can either click this link – Making the Heel and Cuff. It starts at the correct spot in the video.
With the RIGHT side facing, pick up 12 (14, 14, 16, 16) stitches along the cast on edge
✦Next 2 Rows: K across.
Next Row: K2tog. K to last 2 sts. K2tog. ✦ Repeat from ✦ to ✦ until there are 4 sts on your needle.
Next Row: K2tog twice.
End with the yarn on the left side of the row when the right side of the slipper is facing you. You may need to knit one more row.
With the RIGHT side facing and your DPN’s, pick up 36 (38, 42, 44, 48) sts evenly around the edge of the slipper. You will now have 38 (40, 44, 46, 50) sts total.
Rounds 1-6: K1 P1 around.
Rounds 7-10: K around.
Cast off loosely.
Sew seams along the top of the foot and along the sides of the heel. Make another slipper to match.
Hints and Tips:
Be sure to cast your stitches off loosely when making the cuff. It needs to be able to stretch when going over the top of the foot and the heel. It’s the widest part the slipper has to pass over. The ribbing will snap it back to tighten up on its own.
When picking up stitches for the cuff, it doesn’t have to be the exact stitch count I give, but your final number of stitches on your needles MUST be an even number. Make sure your slippers have the same number of stitches around the cuff.
Make the cuff as long as you like with the K1 P1 ribbing. I made it 6 rows but you may want it longer, especially for the larger sizes.
When casting off for the heel, if you need an extra row to end it so the yarn ending on the left with the right side facing (if right you are handed), that’s ok. When knitting this part, I often lose track of how many rows I’ve knitted between the row with the decreases. I’ve never had a complaint yet.
Don’t feel that the cuff needs to be the same colour as the slipper itself. A nice change is to make the cuff in a complimentary colour, especially if you have used variegated yarn. You can also use this pattern to use up some of your left over wool by making the toe (ribbed section) a different colour also.
This is also a great pattern to use if you have a variegated or any other colour changing yarn. Because there isn’t any pattern created by the stitches, it allows to show off the colours really well.
Get your free knitting colorwork paper here! Perfect for all your intarsia motif design needs.
No need to sign in, sign up or give away any personal information. Simply use the download button to download and print as many copies of the knitting graph paper as you like.
It’s a PDF file meaning that you can easily open it on any device be it your computer, phone or tablet.
If you think someone else could use this free knitting color work paper, please let them know and share it on social media.
The knitting graph paper is to create patterns in the stockinette stitch. You can use it to either make stitch patterns, or use colours to create more intricate designs known as intarsia knitting. It’s fairly large so it will meet most of the requirements for your pattern. You can always tape sheets together if you need something larger.
I’ve also included arrows along the side to show which way you will be knitting based on the shape of the stitch. I also include a very faint pink colour so you can easily determine the number of stitches. I’ve marked them off in 5 stitch and row sections.
To help explain the process of designing your own intarsia motifs, there are photos and explanations on how to use the colorwork knitting paper included with the PDF you can download and print for free.
I’m now selling my patterns on Patreon! So far I have listed 9 of my knitting patterns for a variety of knitted slippers and my fingerless gloves. More are coming soon. If there is anything you’d like to see now, let me know in the comments below.
Become a patron on Patreon to get the patterns for FREE! All of the patterns for sale in my shop become available to you to download, ad free. I currently have a list of over 28 crochet, but mostly, knitting patterns you can download with a single click. These are listed as posts on my Patreon.
A great pattern for someone just learning to knit. If you know how to purl, knit, K2tog, M1 and cast on, you will be able to make these slippers. And if you don’t, don’t worry. I’ve included links to the videos that show you exactly how to do the stitches.
These minimal cuff, snug fitting slippers for adults fit folks up to a men’s size 14. Big enough to fit nearly everyone. Knit flat on a pair of straight needles, you don’t need any extra supplies to get these done. If you are an experienced knitter, you’ll be able to whip these up in no time.
Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any of the patterns that you make. All I ask that you respect the hard work that goes into designing and publishing a pattern and not violate my copyright.
If you would prefer a printable or ad free version of this pattern, you can get it in all the usual places including this website here – Snug Slip-On Slippers, through myEtsy shop, LoveCrafts, Amazon, Google Books, Patreon, Ravelry, or my newest place Creative Fabrica. If the links aren’t working, I’m in the process formatting and uploading to the retailer.
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If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Things You will Need
7oz (198 g) worsted weight yarn. Any standard ball of yarn you can get at craft or big box stores will be more than enough with yarn to spare.
Set of size 6 US (4 mm) single pointed knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew seams and work in ends.
Gauge
In garter stitch
2” (10 cm) – 9 stitches
2” (10 cm) – 18 rows
Sizes are written as such:
Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)
Abbreviations
If you need help with any of the stitches, you can go to my how-to video page. Here’s the link –Learn to Knit With Videos. A new page will open so you’re sure to not lose this one.
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
M1 – Make 1. Increase one stitch between stitches.
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Heel Flap
Cast on 4
K across for 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) rows.
* Next row: K1 M1. K across to last st. M1. K1.
Next 3 rows: K across * Repeat from * to * until there are 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) sts. Make sure to knit the 3 rows after the increase row. Cast on an additional 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts. 28 (29, 30, 33, 34) sts total.
Next row: K across. Cast on another 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts. 42 (44, 46, 50, 52) sts total.
Next row: K1 (0, 0, 1, 1) K2 tog 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) times, K1, K2tog to last st (if there is one). K1 (0, 0, 0, 0).
Next row: P3 (3, 3, 4, 3) K4 P3 (3, 3, 4, 4).
Break yarn and draw through.
Flip up the triangle-ish shaped flap in the back of the slipper to form the heel. Sew along the sides of the heel flap to form the back of the slipper.
Make another slipper to match.
Hints and Tips
When ending the toe, due to the differing number of stitches for the various sizes, there may or may not be an extra stitch that needs working at the ends. I’ve marked the sizes accordingly.
The heel flap may not match up perfectly with the sides of the slipper but it will be close. Hold the garter edges at the top to make sure it lines up to form the cuff.
Leave a length of yarn when casting on and after you draw the yarn through when forming the toe. You can use it to sew the seams along one of the sides of the heel and along the top of the toe.
Watch the full documentary style video that tells the entire story of the fox and badger interaction. Click to watch ??
Watch the highlight from the videos with the shorts
Thanks for watching! I know that this set of videos doesn’t reflect the overall direction and niche of this website. This was such a unique thing to watch that I just wanted to share it with as many folks as I could. And for the record though I didn’t mention it anywhere else, everyone present was Team Fox. And somehow the badger was a “He” and the bad guy. I tried to present this as unbiased as possible but after watching the foxes all spring (my parents) and I hearing about them, it was hard not to feel attached to the foxes.
The term, “decrease evenly across ? number of stitches” in any pattern can be an unpleasant sight to any knitter (me included). Whereas I try to do this calculation in the patterns I write, some don’t. Regardless, the stitch calculator below will help!
Using this calculator will give you evenly spaced decreases over the length of your work. All you need to enter is the number of stitches you have on your needle and the number of stitches you need to decrease. Everything is calculated for you.
Please note: If you have more or less stitches at the end of your work, go ahead and knit them. The number of decreases across the stitches is correct.
I want to be completely transparent in where this increase and decrease knitting calculators originated. I did not write the code myself. After much tweaking of this query to ChatGPT, I’ve developed a stitch calculator to determine how to decrease evenly across your work. I knew what I wanted, I just didn’t know how to write the code to make it happen. AI is useful after all!
It’s tough, and frustrating, to do the math to figure out how many stitches you need to knit to make your stitches even across the row. We’ve all been there and we all hate doing the math. Well, you’re in luck! I’ll do it for you ?. And if you don’t know how to M1 (make 1 or increase) scroll down the page or click this link towatch the video.
Using the calculator below will give you evenly spaced increases across the length of your work. All you need to enter is the number of stitches you have on your needle and the number of stitches you need to increase. Everything is calculated for you with a single click!
I know that sometimes the stitches are a little off on the ends. Adjust accordingly if it bothers you. I really was focused on the making the increases centered in the work with even spacing between the stitches.
I want to be completely transparent in where this knitting calculator and the decreasing calculator originated. I did not write the code myself. After much tweaking of this query to ChatGPT, I’ve developed a stitch calculator to determine how to increase evenly across your work. I knew what I wanted, I just didn’t know how to write the code to make it happen. AI is useful after all!
My notes I entered into ChatGPT to get the code to work.
The dishcloth obsession continues, though I am getting a bit weary of these. Time to get around to making more art pieces.
So I’m providing this in two sizes – roughly 7 inches square and 8 inches square. The smaller size seemed almost a smidgen too small but the larger one seemed a bit larger than I would like. I suppose it could have easily been fixed with changing needle sizes but I figured I’d let others deal with that. With that said, this knitting pattern is written accordingly. The larger size repeat counts are in brackets.
It’s important to note that for this specific knitting pattern, odd rows are NOT the right side of your work. The dropping and picking up stitches happens on what would be usually considered the WRONG side or all even rows. So in short, the right side of your work is all the EVEN rows.
Also, I’ve included a bunch of photos to help you along with YO, dropping stitches, slipping stitches and making the crossed over stitches. The YO, slipping and dropping stitches are standard stitches and if you’re an experienced knitter, you probably won’t need the photos. I’ve included the photos as you go along in the pattern, but if you already feel comfortable with these stitches, the pattern is also written without the photos further down the post here – the pattern without the photos.
If you would like to show your continued support of my work and this website, for only $3 you can become a Website Member. This is an easy way for you to support my work and get a bunch of other patterns you can easily print off. As of the writing there are 34 patterns I’ve added to this list. I also have a Patreon option available too, but there aren’t as many patterns over there. You can use either of the links below to check out supporting my work.
If you are loving the free patterns, please consider helping me out offsetting the hosting costs of the website. You can learn more by going to this page – Help Support My Work. If you can’t make a small donation, that’s OK ?. Instead, you can help others see my work by using the share buttons. It’s such an easy thing to do and helps me so much.
Things you will need
Click any of the links below to get everything you need to make this dishcloth.
Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle.
Stitches passed back to non-working needle.
Pick up and knit the dropped stitch.
Picking up the stitch.
Working the stitch.
Stitch knitted. Cross over complete.
K2 ♣︎ Repeat from ♣︎ to ♣︎ 4 (5) more times. K2
Row 7: ✙ P4 YO P1 YO P1 ✙ Repeat from ✙ to ✙ 4 (5) more times. P4
Row 8: ♥︎ K4, SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO ♥︎ Repeat ♥︎ to ♥︎ 4 (5) more times. K4
Row 9: ♦︎ P4 SL2 ♦︎ Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ 4 (5) more times. P4
Row 10: K2 ▲ SL2, Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle and knit this stitch. K2. Drop the next stitch. K2. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ 4 (5) more times. K2. ☺︎
Repeat from ☺︎ to ☺︎ 4 (5) more times. (Rows 3 – 10 make up one repeat of the diamond motif).
Next row: Purl across
Next row: Cast off. Do NOT cut the yarn, unless you are making the edging a different colour.
Edging
To make things as easy as possible, I’ve embedded the (very) old video I made demonstrating how to do this technique. It’s basically a backwards single crochet (Bsc) that creates a more ropey kind of look.
You may have to play around a bit with the size of hook that’s going to work the best for you. For me, based on my tension for knitting the dishcloth and tension for how I crochet, a 3.75 mm crochet hook worked best.
Row 1: With right side facing, and in the first cast off stitch that you can easily insert your hook, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc in every 2nd cast off stitch along the top and bottom edges
Skip every other stitch.
Insert your hook like this.
Hook the yarn and pull through.
Hook the yarn again and pull through the two loops. Stitch made.
Bsc in every other row along the sides.
Insert hook in this stitch when working along the rows.
Join to the start of the row. Work in ends.
I found there is enough slack that you don’t need multiple stitches in the corner.
Pattern Without the Photos
Cast on 34 (40 sts)
Row 1: Purl across (wrong side)
Row 2: Knit across (right side)
☺︎Row 3: P2 YO ✿ P5 YO P1 YO ✿ Repeat from ✿ to ✿ 3 (4) more times. P5 YO P3
Row 4: K2 SL1, Drop the YO, K4 ◆ SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO, K4 ◆ Repeat from ◆ to ◆ 3 (4) more times. SL1, Drop the YO, K2
Row 5: P2 SL1 P4 ♠︎ SL2 P4 ♠︎ Repeat ♠︎ to ♠︎ 3 (4) more times. SL1 P2
Row 6: K2 ♣︎ Drop the next stitch, K2. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle. Knit this stitch. SL2 Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. K2 ♣︎ Repeat from ♣︎ to ♣︎ 4 (5) more times. K2
Row 7: ♥︎ P4 YO P1 YO P1 ♥︎ Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ 4 (5) more times. P4
Row 8: ♦︎ K4, SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO ♦︎ Repeat ♦︎ to ♦︎ 4 (5) more times. K4
Row 9: ✦ P4 SL2 ✦ Repeat from ✦ to ✦ 4 (5) more times. P4
Row 10: K2 ⚽︎ SL2, Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle and knit this stitch. K2. Drop the next stitch. K2. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. ⚽︎ Repeat from ⚽︎ to ⚽︎ 4 (5) more times. K2. ☺︎.
Repeat from ☺︎ to ☺︎ 4 (5) more times. (Rows 3 – 10 make up one repeat of the diamond motif).
Next row: Purl across
Next row: Cast off
Edging
The edging is a backwards single crochet (Bsc) that creates a more ropey kind of look.
You may have to play around a bit with the size of hook that’s going to work the best for you. For me, based on my tension for knitting the dishcloth and tension for how I crochet, a 3.75 mm crochet hook worked best.
Row 1: With right side facing, and in the first cast off stitch that you can easily insert your hook, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc in every 2nd cast off stitch along the top and bottom edges. Bsc in every other row along the sides.
Join to the start of the row. Work in ends.
I found there is enough slack that you don’t need multiple stitches in the corner.
Hints and Tips
You may have to play around a bit with the size of the crochet hook you use.
I haven’t had any problem with the dropped stitch unraveling while knitting other stitches. If you do, you can use a cable needle to hold it in place.
Try a variation in colours too! You could make each diamond repeat a different colour. What’s marked with ? to ?. And you can also make the edging a different colour like I did. It would be a great way to use up the extra bits of cotton yarn you have.
Abbreviations
Non-working needle – Left needle if you are right handed. Right needle if you are left handed)
YO – Yarn Over. When doing a YO for the purl stitch, pull your yarn to the back of your work (like you were going to knit) and purl the next stitch. The yarn will form an extra stitch on your needle.
Starting the yarn over
Pull the yarn to the back of your work
Pull your yarn forward and work the stitch. Increase made.
The yarn over (increased stitched)
K – Knit
P – Purl
SL – Slip the next stitch, without working it, onto your working needle. (Right needle if you’re right handed. Left needle if you’re left handed).
After a bit of math and a little tweaking of the results, the child sizes of the FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern is finally available! (You can click that link if you need the adult sizes). Because these are made for little feet, they often don’t need much yarn. This makes them a great way to use up the smaller leftover bits from larger projects. Not to mention, these tend to sell like hotcakes at local farmers’ markets, craft fairs and consignment shops. The smaller pairs are “so cute” making for an easy sale and the return on the investment of your time is great! They’re quick to make and since the yarn has already been bought for a larger project, anything made from the leftovers, like these child shippers, is gravy, baby!
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If you can’t help financially, I totally get it. Sharing on your social media is the next best thing.
And yes, you have my permission to sell or give away anything you make from my patterns. You’re just not allow to redistribute any of the patterns themselves in any form. Linking to and sharing is always welcome though! You can use those buttons ?? to do so easily.
Please note, this isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles, but no worries! I included photos and now a how-to video demonstrating how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.
And if you are concerned with the number of ends you’ll need to weave in when done, I’ve also created a tutorial to help you with that too! It’s so much easier to work the ends in as you go, though there will be a few you’ll have to do (i.e. when you sew up the seam for the heel), but if you are interested in easing your work load, here’s the link showing you How to Weave in the Ends While Knitting. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page ?. There’s also a clickable card in the scrolling free pattern pics running across the top of this website if you need to find the page again.
If you don’t want to read it online and want to print it, this knitting pattern is available in all the usual places including this website – Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippersfor Children, Ravelry, in my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts, a paperback on Amazon, and as an ePub that you can download on your Kindle. I’ll link to all of them as I get them completed and uploaded to the retailers. If a link isn’t working, it’s on its way. I need to reformat everything to get things on Amazon…
FYI I’m working at uploading my work to a distributor that also works with libraries. I’m publishing paperbacks of the patterns that you’ll be able to borrow! Some are available right now like the slipper and fingerless glove compilations I have. The single pattern paperbacks should be available as I get them uploaded and the distributor gets them out to the libraries. If they aren’t there now, you can always ask them to get it for you ?
The printable version of this pattern will also be in the member section and at Patreon also. Here are the links where you can get it.
If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. I really enjoying watching how the colours pool on the finished project. Little weird, I know… And In case you were thinking of trying self-striping yarn. Don’t. It looks terrible.
1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart and Bernat worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.
Use this product to help prevent slippers from sliding on slick floors
Gauge
With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.
I’m using a colour code to denote the number of stitches for the various sizes. I hope this helps when making the sizes of slippers.
Size
Length
1-2
4 inches
10 cm
3-4
4.5 inches
11.4 cm
5-6
5 inches
12.5 cm
7-8
5 3/4 inches
14.5 cm
9-10
6 inches
15 cm
11-12
6 3/4 inches
17 cm
13-1
7 1/4 inches
18.5 cm
2-3
8 1/4 inches
21 cm
4-5
8 3/4 inches
22 cm
All measurements are approximate. Knitted slippers are very forgiving for size and foot shape.
To Begin
Cast on 18 (20,22, 24,26,28,30, 32,34)
Knit across for 10 (12,12, 14,14,16,18, 20,20) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.
Toe Flap
Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) to create the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches on the needle unworked.
The following rows are worked back and forth on the 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) toe flap stitches only!
Knit across for 18 (20,22, 24,26,30,32, 36,40) rows.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10,10,10, 12, 12) stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 6 (7, 7, 8, 8,9,10, 10, 11) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit these stitches. Pick up 9 (10,11, 12,13,15,16, 18,20) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are now on ONE needle – 15 (17,18, 20,21,24,26, 28,31) stitches
With another needle, knit the 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches on the other needle unworked for now.
With another needle, pick up 9 (10,11, 12,13,15,16, 18,20) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 6 (7,7, 8,8,9,10, 10,11) stitches on the next needle. There are now 15 (17,18, 20,21,24,26, 28,31) stitches on this needle.
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
I used double pointed needles because they were handy and I don’t like the longer needles flopping and waggling about while I knit. Regular knitting needles work perfectly fine, too!
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 4 (4,6, 6,8,8,8, 10,10) rows.
There are 2 (2,3, 3,4,4,4, 5,5) ridges on the tip of the toe.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the sizes 2-3 and 4-5.
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap
The 2 ridges for small size 1-2 and 3-4.
Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 5 (5,7, 7,9,9,9, 11,11) stitches of the toe flap.
Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Making the Sole
If you need help with making the sole, picking up stitches along the side etc, you can watch this video. It starts exactly where you need it to.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. – 6 (6,8, 8,10,10,10, 12,12) stitches
Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
? Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. – 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches
Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.
Next Row: Knit across ?
Repeat from ? to ? in every stitch down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Starting the sole. Right side. This is shows the adult size but will have less stitches for child sizes.
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.
If you need help with making the heel, you can watch the video. It starts where you need it to. As mentioned in the video, you’ll need to follow how to decrease with the pattern as written below.
If You Have 6 Stitches
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog 3 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.
These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.
Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above
After you K2tog at the end of the row, you’ll pick up a stitch here.
Stitch picked up on the left or end of the row.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
If You Have 8 Stitches
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog 4 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side. (Scroll up to the “If you have 6 stitches” section to see the photos if you need help).
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
If you have 10 or More Stitches
♀️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (Scroll up to the “If you have 6 stitches” section to see the photos if you need help).
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. ♀️ Repeat from ♀️ to ♀️ until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Because smaller kid-lettes tend to have chunkier legs (aka – cankles ?), which is so gosh-darn cute btw, don’t go too crazy with the length.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is roughly 1 stitch every ridge.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. And yes, this is the third time I’m sharing it, but I made a photo tutorial showing how to do this. You can see it here – How to Work in the Ends as You Knit.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something. Especially on the smaller slippers that involve so many different stitch counts for the numerous sizes.
To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work! A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely ?
If you’ve run across any of my slipper patterns before this, one thing you’ll be very familiar with is my unreasonable dislike for sewing seams on projects. I equally dislike working in ends (go to How to Work in Ends While Knitting for more on this). I have a embarrassing amount of nearly finished projects that collect in a box with unsewn seams and dangling ends. Yes. I just admitted that to everyone. No shame in my game.
This is another attempt to make this happen. It’s quite difficult to make something seamless when the design calls for it to be knit flat on 2 needles. This automatically means there are going to be ends that need to meet at some point. The idea is to make them meet as you knit so they are permanently fixed together with no extra work.
Don’t forget to share this pattern with your family and friends! You can use these buttons??????
This pattern starts with the cast on stitches going around the foot (sans heel). You’ll then work your way up to the top cuff. I’ve pointed out where we’re starting in this photo.
As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here –Bulky Yarn Slippers for Adults – Knit on Straight Needles. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts,Etsy and Ravelry. If the link isn’t working I haven’t upload the pattern to the site yet.
Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Now that we’re done all that, if you just need the pattern, you can click this button. Please note, if you click the button you’ll skip the other info like gauge, how much yarn, needle size, etc.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
K3tog – knit 3 stitches together
P2tog – purl 2 stitches together
P2tog TBL – purl 2 together through the back loop.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) standard balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
or
Super Bulky yarn – 2 standard balls of ONE colour with matching lot numbers (90 yards/82 m).
One ball makes one slipper. There will be some yarn left over from each ball.
Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
8 sts – 5 cm (2″)
7 rows – 5 cm (2”)
Sizes are written as such:
Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
The Pattern
Cast on 56 (60, 64, 68)
Knit across for 6 (6, 8, 8) rows.
Next Row: K26 (28, 30, 32) K2tog. Sl 1 as if to knit. K1 PSSO. K26 (28, 30, 32).
This photo will help you in how and where to pick up the following stitches. Hold your work so it looks like this with the pointy end up. The RED arrow is for right handed knitters.
Pick up 6 sts at the toe in bottom loop of cast on stitches. (3 sts on either side of middle clearly marked with p2tog line.)
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K6. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K8. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches.
Next Row: Knit across.
If you are making women’s sizes 6-9 or men’s sizes 6-8, skip to row marked with ♥
For all other sizes continue as follows:
Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K10. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches.
Next Row: Knit across.
♥ ☼ Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches. K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the bottom loop of the cast on stitches.
Next Row: Knit across. ☼
Repeat rows marked with ☼ to ☼ down the length of the sole. You will ALWAYS have 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle.
Forming the Heel
There are two ways to do this. The easiest way is to make a small triangle.
Using the 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle.
♦ Next 2 Rows: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog. Knit to last 2 sts. K2tog.
Next Row: Knit across. ♦
Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until 5 (5, 6, 6) sts
If making women’s sizes 6-9 or men’s sizes 6-8:
Next Row: K2tog K1 K2tog.
Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam.
If making women’s sizes 10-12 or men’s sizes 9-12:
Next Row: K2tog 3 times.
Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam.
For all sizes:
Flip up the triangle to fit into the back of the heel. Sew seams along sides of triangle and up the back of the slipper.
Or
Make the seams as you go:
I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you if the photos aren’t enough.
Using the 10 (10, 12, 12) sts on your needle,
♦ Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to last 4 sts. K2tog twice. Pick up a st along side of the slipper and work in the ends.
Next Row: Knit across. ♦
Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until 6 (6, 8, 8) sts.
§ Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog across. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.
Next Row: Knit across. §
If making women’s sizes 10-12 or men’s sizes 9-12, repeat from § to § once.
Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog.
Next Row: K3tog. Cut yarn and draw yarn through last st. Leave a length of yarn long enough to sew the remaining seam. Sew the seam up the back of the slipper and work in the ends.
Hints and Tips
You can make the slippers truly seamless when you are making the seamed triangle for the back of the heel. Continue picking up stitches on each side while working up the heel seam. Continue doing this using the 5 sts and repeating as follows:
Next Row: Pick up a st along side of the slipper. K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pick up a st along side of the slipper.
Next Row: Knit across.
I didn’t include it in the instructions because… I didn’t. It was already complicated enough for the heel.
If you are up in arms about how many ends there are to sew in, you can work the ends in while you are knitting. I have a detailed photo tutorial on my website here that you can watch – How to Work In the Ends While Knitting.
Play around with the colours you choose if you’re using worsted weight yarn. You can get some neat effects by blending a solid colour with a variegated one, or by using colours that are the same colour but a different tone. I used both of these techniques for the red booties.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or duplicate this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
It’s taken me a while to get around to adding this to my website for some reason. Not sure why that happened? Anywho, for those who enjoy crocheting something different or want quick, fast and cheap things to sell online or in craft markets, these crochet patterns are for you.
All of them are available for FREE on my website to read. They always will be. If you want or prefer to have a printed version, I have the downloadable and printable versions available through a number of retailers. You can get it from my:
if you would prefer a paperback version, you can order it through Amazon. Below I’ve included the countries that its available in. Be sure to pick your country, or the one closest to you so you won’t have to pay for shipping if you are an Amazon Prime member.
If you would prefer to read the patterns for free on my website, you can click any of the titles below and it will take you directly to the pattern. Not all of them are on here. I’m not sure why?? I plan to fix this ASAP.
I’ve made a note to myself about the last two patterns not being on my website for free. I’m very sorry about that. Trust me, it’s in the pile of things to do.
This crocheted leaf pattern was designed to go along with a flower made for my sun hat (Crochet sun hat pattern coming soon!). As I was getting the photos ready, I was thinking how these could also be used to highlight many things, especially a crocheted wreath for autumn. I like how the leaves look in the variety of fall colours.
The leaves by themselves aren’t really much to look at. I didn’t want them to be. I want them to be fill behind the flowers highlighting the flowers themselves.
I’m going to add buttons so you can easily go to the pages with the flower pattern and the hat (when it’s done).
This pattern isn’t available alone as a downloadable and printable PDF. It will be included with the sunhat/bucket hat/cowboy/cowgirl hat along with the flower. It was easier to divide the hat, flower and leaf into separate pages on the website.
If you know someone you think would like this post, by all means, share it! The more eyeballs on my work the better. If you are enjoying the free patterns, this is a great way to support my work. You can also Buy Me A Coffee or check out the other options when you check out the Help Support My Workpage. If you’re looking for something new to share with your friends on your website or on social media, these links will help you do it.
The hints and tips for how to finish and press the flowers is written below the pattern. You can also ask any questions in the comments section.
Abbreviations
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
trc – treble crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Things You Need
Worsted weigh yarn (small quantities from your stash)
3.5 mm (US E or 4) crochet hook.
Stitch marker. (A piece of yarn or bobby pin will do).
The Pattern
Please note:
The rounds end in various places on the bottom of the leaf. Regardless, the stitch counts work. Round 4 evens out the stitches giving the leaf shape.
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 11sc in 2nd chain from hook. Do NOT join. Begin to work in the round.
Round 2: In the 1st sc from the last round, sc. 2sc in the next st. In the next st, sc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, dc. 2dc in the next 2 sts. In the next st, dc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, sc. 2sc in the next st. Sc.
Round 3: *2sc in the next st, sc* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. In the next st, sc, hdc. (Mark the hdc with a stitch marker). In the next st, hdc, dc. 2dc in the next st. In the next st, dc, trc. In the next st, trc, dc. 2dc in the next st. In the next st, dc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, sc. *Sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 2 more times.
Round 4: *2sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. (Or as many sc as you need to get to the stitch marker). Sc in the stitch marked with the marker. As you normally would, proceed as follows, hdc, 4dc. In the next st (the 1st trc from the previous round), dc, trc. Ch 2 sl st in the 2nd chain from hook. In the next st, trc, dc. As you normally would, proceed as follows, 4dc, hdc, sc. *2sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 4 more times. 2Sc. Sl st in the next st. Break yarn. Tie off.
Add extra embroidered details to the leaves as you see fit. Maybe some extra veining lines or stitches around the edge in a slightly darker shade? It really is up to you.
As much as I wanted to avoid pressing anything, the leaves also need to be pressed to have them lie flat. Be sure to do a test swatch BEFORE you press anything. Acrylic is notorious for melting and losing all constructive properties when pressed. It melts to give a flat, melted look. Press with your iron at the lowest setting possible. Press with a damp cloth between the iron and the leaf. Iron the leaves from the BACK only!
This flower is specifically designed to go with a crochet sun hat/bucket hat/cowboy/cowgirl hat that I’m making. The downloadable and printable version of this pattern is available in the pattern for the multi-hat. It was too much to add to the pattern for the hat on the website. It was easier to make its own page.
I have a number of tips and suggestions if you run into problems making the flower. Scroll down to the bottom of the page to read them or to leave a question in the comments.
Though the flower is made with yarn in this example, I originally designed it to be made with crochet cotton thread and a small crochet hook. You can add it to a band and make a bracelet with it. I have a number of bracelet designs that it will work with Waves Bracelet, Fans Bracelet Pattern, Quick Crochet Bracelet and my Friendship Flower Bracelet. The last one has a flower already made for it but you could easily switch that flower out for this one.
I’m not making any promises, but I do hope to post other flowers and leaves on my website. I have a number of different designs I’d like to get on there. At the moment I have two flowers (3 if you count the one included with my crocheted slippers) that you can take a look at. The flowers are done with crochet cotton thread and I’m not sure how large the final flower would be when made with yarn. I’ll leave that up to you. The one that would also work with the yarn is my Free Crochet Flower Pattern. It should be slightly smaller than the flower I designed to go with the hat.
If you know someone you think would like this post, by all means, share it! The more eyeballs on my work the better. If you are enjoying the free patterns, this is a great way to support my work. You can also Buy Me A Coffee or check out the other options when you check out the Help Support My Workpage. If you’re looking for something new to share with your friends on your website or on social media, these links will help you do it.
3 to 4 colours of worsted weigh yarn (all small amounts from your stash)
3 mm (US E or 4) crochet hook
Tapestry needle
The Pattern
With the colour you want for your centre…
Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)
Round 1: 10sc in 2nd chain from hook. Join with sl st in first sc. Break yarn. Tie off.
Round 2: With the 2nd colour of your choice, join in any sc. 2sc in same st as join, 2sc around. Join with sl st to 1st sc of the round.
Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in same st as join. *Ch 4. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each chain. (3sc total). Join with sl st in the starting sc of the Ch 4. Sc in the next 2 stitches. Ch 5. Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each chain. (4sc total). Join with sl st in the starting sc of the Ch 5. Sc in the next 2 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around, ending with 1sc instead of the 2sc. Join with sl st to 1st sc of the round. Break yarn. Tie off.
Round 3 completed
Round 4: Working in the Ch 4 petals only! And with your third colour choice…
Join with sl st in 1st sc before Ch 4 petal. *In the bottom loops of the chain from the previous round, sc, hdc in 1st loop. Hdc, dc in the 2nd loop, 2dc in the 3rd loop. In the top loop, 2dc, ch 2 sl st in 2nd chain from hook, 2dc. Working on the other edge of the petal, 2dc in the 1st st, dc, hdc in the 2nd st, hdc, sc in the 3rd st. Sl st in the sl st of the previous round. Hold the next Ch 5 petal back, sc in the next 2nd sc between the Ch 5 and the next Ch 4 petal.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with sl st in the 1st sc of the round. Break yarn. Tie off.
Round 5: Working in the Ch 5 petals only! And with your third (or fourth) colour choice…
Join with a sl st to the 1st loop of the chain. *2sc in the same loop, 2hdc in the 2nd loop, 2dc in the 3rd and 4th loops. In the top loop, 2dc, ch 2 sl st in 2nd chain from hook, 2dc. Working on the other edge of the petal, 2dc in the 1st and 2ndsts, 2hdc in the 3rd st, 2sc in the 4th st. Ch1. Hold the ch 4 petal forward and working in the next ch 5 petal.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to the 1st sc of the round. Break yarn. Tie off.
Work in all the ends. Attach to the hat. Link coming soon!
Hints and Tips
Add extra embroidered details to the flowers as you see fit. I made the white/blue flower with one solid colour with the middle and inside leaves to see what it would look like. I didn’t like it so did some quick stitches around to make it green.
Advice for working in the ends of the flowers. It’s easier to hold the yarn to the back of your work and catch the yarn for 4 or 5 sts as you are making the flower. It works the ends in automatically and involves less to fix at the end.
As much as I wanted to avoid pressing anything, the flowers need to be pressed to have the petals lie flat. Be sure to do a test swatch BEFORE you press your flower. Acrylic is notorious for melting and losing all constructive properties when pressed. It melts to give a flat, melted look. Press with your iron at the lowest setting possible. Press with a damp cloth between the iron and the flower petals. Iron the flower from the BACK.
It’s not overly important where you single crochet between the petals on Round 4. As long as it’s only 1sc and consistent.
I like to stagger where I join the next colour of yarn to make the flower. That way the joins and end points don’t all congest at one point.
If you have ever made one of my dishcloths in the past, it really bothers me when one side of a dishcloth doesn’t look the same way on the reverse side. To me, a dishcloth should be reversible. I know, it’s weird and really isn’t that important, but we all have these random, arbitrary rules we like to follow. Well, this one hits that same-both-side requirement! Yay! My mildly OCD brain is happy.
Want to make the scarf or the coasters instead? It’s easy peasy! Follow the pattern below shows which rows to repeat when making the scarf. And when making the coasters, only make it about 26 stitches wide instead of the 50 stitches for the dishcloth. Any even number will work for the width regardless if you’re making the scarf, dishcloth or the coasters.
As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here – Textured Knitted Scarf, Dishcloth and Coasters Pattern. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts, Etsy and Ravelry. If the link isn’t working I haven’t upload the pattern to the site yet.
Want to make a monthly contribution, avoid ads and pop-ups, and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of my patterns? Become a Member on this website! When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Worsted weight yarn – I always use cotton yarn for dishcloths. You can use something else if you are going to make a scarf with this pattern. The amount of yarn you’ll need depends on how long and wide you want a scarf. If making dishcloths or coasters, one standard ball will be enough.
Row 2: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across.
Row 3: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 P1 K3
Row 4: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 P1 K1 P1 K2
Row 5 – 6: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across.
★ Row 7: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.
Row 8: Increase in the first knit stitch. K1 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 3 stitches P1 K2.
Row 9 – 10: Increase in the first knit stitch. K across. ★ Repeat from ★ to ★ until you have 50 stitches total.
♥︎ Next row: K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.
Next row: K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.
Next 2 rows: K across. ♥︎
If you are making a scarf, repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ until it’s the length you want. If NOT making a scarf, continue with the pattern as follows…
♦︎ Next row: K2tog *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 4 stitches P1 K3.
Next row: K2tog *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * to the last 3 stitches P1 K2.
Next 2 rows: K2tog. K across. ♦︎ Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ until down to 8 stitches. You will have finished the first knit across row when there are 8 stitches on your needle.
Next row: K2tog. K the next stitch. Pass the K2tog loop on your working needle over the stitch you just knitted (AKA Cast off). Continue to cast off until there are 2 stitches on your non-working needle. K2tog these 2 stitches. You now have 2 stitches on your working needle. Pass the stitch over the the K2tog loop (the loop on the right over the loop on the left, if you are right handed).
This pattern can easily be made into a scarf of any width. I used fringe on the point for my scarf but you could attach tassels if you so desire. If you want to make this into a scarf, repeat the rows in the middle marked with the ?. It’s always 4 rows for one repeat of the pattern. The scarf in the photos is 26 stitches wide.
Not a fan of the scarf but could use some coasters? This pattern could easily be made smaller following the pattern exactly as written for the dishcloth but only making the coaster 26 stitches wide.
Make this as wide or as narrow as you like. If you feel 50 stitches are too wide, or not wide enough, do what you wish. Just always end on the second row of the knitting across rows to maintain the pattern texture.
If you want a more finished edge, you can easily do a single crochet around the edge of the dishcloth. The lighter beige dishcloth has the single crocheted edge if you’d like to see an example. I found that 2 stitches at each of the corners maintained a spaced out edging that lays flat.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
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For even more FREE knitting and crochet patterns, be sure to check out my newest website – KweenBee.ca I add new patterns regularly.
If you are a fibre artist and have a pattern you would like to share, I’d love to show case your work! Paid or free, on your own website, in your Etsy shop, on Ravelry or anywhere else, you can add your pattern. Go to – KweenBee.caThe service is free for anyone to use. I’m trying to generate a safe space for everyone to share their work that isn’t related to any of the social media sites.
Knit fast and keep your feet toasty warm with this quick to knit pattern. Made with 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, or choose to use super bulky yarn, these extra thick, super quick slippers are sure to be a hit with you and anyone that wears the slippers.
I had a number of people over the years ask about faster to knit and thicker versions of my slippers using either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or using the thicker yarns that are available. I decided to do the math and come up with something simple and quick for anyone to make. I decided on the thicker version of my Easy to Knit Rolled Cuff Slippers that I published a while back. It’s simple and made one piece. This lent itself well to a rewrite of the pattern taking into account the new gauge of the yarn.
A word on yarn. You can use super bulky yarn. This is equal to 14 ply or No. 6 yarn. How it’s referenced depends on where you live. This pattern also works well, and for our purposes, equals to a double strand of worsted weight yarn (10 ply or No. 4 yarn). As long as the gauge is the same, the sizing of the slippers should be consistent. I found that using size 5 mm (US 8) knitting needles worked for both the super bulky and the double strand of worsted weight giving the same stitches and rows per inch for both.
A note on super bulky yarn selections. Make sure what you are using is the one that is like regular worsted weight yarn but only thicker. Using any of the blanket yarns (the ones that are similar to a terry towel type texture) don’t stretch the way they should.
It’s easier to use 2 separate balls of yarn when using two strands of worsted weight yarn for this project. It also lets you play with colour a bit. Using colours that are in the same colour family or have a slightly different shade can make for some interesting variations. Mixing a solid colour with a variegated yarn can also make for unique effects. It really is up to you how you want to blend the colours. Of course, you can use the same colour for both strands. The choice is yours.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).
If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) standard balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
or
Super Bulky yarn – 2 standard balls of ONE colour with matching lot numbers (90 yards/82 m). One ball makes one slipper. There will be some yarn left over from each ball.
Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
In garter stitch
8 sts – 5 cm (2″)
7 rows – 5 cm (2”)
The sizing for this pattern is written as such:
Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together
P2tog – purl 2 stitches together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
The Pattern
Cast on 2
Row 1-2: Knit across.
Row 3: Increase in both stitches. (4 sts)
Row 4-5: Knit across.
Row 6: Increase in the first st. K to the last st. Increase in the last st. (6 sts)
Row 7-8: Knit across.
Row 9: Increase in the first st. K to the last st. Increase in the last st. (8 sts)
Row 10-11: Knit across.
Row 12: Increase in the first st. K to the last st. Increase in the last st. (10 sts)
Row 13-14: Knit across. Go to the row marked with ◘ for women’s sizes 6-9 and for men’s sizes 6-8. Continue for all larger sizes as follows:
Next row: Increase in the first st. K to the last st. Increase in the last st. (12 sts)
Next 2 rows: Knit across.
◘ Next row: Cast on 12 (12, 15, 15). 22 (22, 27, 27 sts)
Next row: P3 *K2 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. K 10 (10, 12, 12).
Next row: Cast on 12 (12, 15, 15) Knit across. 34 (34, 42, 42 sts)
♥ Next row: P3 *K2 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. K 10 (10, 12, 12). *P1 K2* Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. P3.
Next row: Knit across. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 11 (12, 13, 14) more times for a total of 24 (26, 28, 30) rows.
Next row: P2tog P1*K2 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. K 10 (10, 12, 12). *P1 K2* Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. P1 P2 tog. 32 (32, 40, 40 sts)
☻ Next row: Knit across.
Next row: P2 *K2 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. K 10 (10, 12, 12). *P1 K2* Repeat from * to * 2 (2,3, 3) times more. P2.☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 10 (11, 10, 11) more times for a total of 22 (24, 22, 24) rows.
Next row: *K2tog K1* Repeat from * to * 3 (3, 4, 4) times more. K2tog 5 (5, 6, 6) times. *K1 K2tog * Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. K1.
Next row: P2 *K1 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. K5 (5, 6, 6). *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 (2, 3, 3) times more. P1.
For women’s size 6-9 and men’s size 6-8
Next row: K1 K2tog 9 times. K1.
Next row: P5 K2 P4.
Draw through and pull tight.
For women’s size 10-12 and men’s size 9-12
Next row: K1 K2tog 7 times. K1 K2tog 4 times. K1.
Next row: P6 K3 P5.
Draw through and pull tight.
Sew the seam on the top of the foot. Flip up the triangle of the heel and sew the seams on both sides. Sew the ends of the rolled cuff section together above the tip of the triangle.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or duplicate this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below.
