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Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

2 needle owl gloves

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Well, since the how-to video showing how to knit these gloves in the round went over like a lead balloon, I’ve put in the effort and redesigned the gloves so they can be knit flat on 2 needles. Perfect for a newbie knitter wanting to learn new techniques! In case you still want to learn how to knit in the round or want the seamless version, you can read the pattern here – How to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. The video is embedded on that page too, if you want to watch it.

If you are looking to knit a pair of plain gloves without the owls, the original version this pattern is available here – Super Simple Fingerless Gloves. It’s also knitted flat on 2 needles with a seam on the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb.

If you are so inclined and like to have matching sets of things, I have completed the matching hat or beanie! You could also call it a toque. Whatever floats your boat. It’s free to read on this website too. If you’d like to, click this link – How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern


Once again, I’ve made the gloves as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.

I am finished creating the downloadable pdf for this pattern and it’s available in all my usual online selling venues including Ravelry, Etsy, and this website – Super Easy to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS! Click any of those links to avoid the ads and purchase it for a nominal fee.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

I’ve also created videos for you to see how the stitches are done, if any of them are giving you problems. I do have all the basic stitch videos here – Learn Basic Knitting Stitches, but links to the slightly more advanced stitches that show you how to M1, PM1, C4F and C4B are provided on this page. Clicking the links will take you to the video, but will leave this page window open in your browser. You can also scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the stitch abbreviations that also contain the embedded video you can watch right from this page.

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Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles.

2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts

2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows

in stockinette

Things You Need:

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 8 US (5mm) knitting needles

Worsted weight yarn

Cable Needle – There are a number a styles but I prefer the hook version

Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle

Left Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 21: K13 M1 K1 M1 K4 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 22: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 23: K20 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 24: P5 K1 P8 K1 P4 PM1 P3 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 25: K22 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row



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Row 26: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 27: K13 M1 K5 M1 K4 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 28: P5 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 29: K24 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 30: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P4 PM1 P7 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 31: K26 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 32: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 33: K13 M1 K9 M1 K4 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 34: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 35: K28 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 36: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P4 PM1 P11 PM1 P to the end of the row

Row 37: K30 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 38: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 39: K13 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K4 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 40: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 41: K17 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 42: P5 K10 P to the end of the row

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-50: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

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Right Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: P18 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 21: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K4 M1 K1 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 22: P20 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 23: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 24: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P4 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 25: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 26: P22 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 27: K5 P1 K8 P1 K4 M1 K5 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 28: P24 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 29: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 30: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 31: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 32: P26 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 33: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 M1 K9 M1 K to the end of the row

Row 34: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 35: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 36: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 37: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row

Row 38: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 39: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K to the end of the row

Row 40: P17 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row

Row 41: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row

Row 42: P17 K10 P to the end of the row

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-50: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

You can make these gloves with a ribbed cuff and around the fingers like the original Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can easily do a K1 P1 ribbing to make that happen.

Abbreviation

K – knit

P – purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.

M1 or Make 1 – Increase between stitches when knitting.

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would.

PM1 or Purl Make 1 – Increase between stitches when purling.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4F or Cable 4 Forward

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B or Cable 4 Back

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9 thoughts on “Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

  1. Where do I find the directions for knitting in the round? Thanks

  2. How do I know what size to make? My granddaughter’s hand measures about 8-8.5 inches in around.

  3. I’ve made about 8 pairs now of the double pointed needle pattern, decided to do a pair on straight. Thanks so much for the pattern!

  4. Hi there, I absolutely love this pattern, thank you so much! I’m a beginner knitter and this helped me out so much!

    I was wondering, if I didn’t want to make it fingerless so like a mitten/glove how would you recommend doing so??

    Thank you so much!

    1. I would keep knitting in the round after I made the thumb for however long you need it. You can do some decreasing rows at the end then draw all the stitches together. Or, you can end it like a sock and grafts the stitches like you would the toe of a sock. I show how to do that on my sock pattern.

  5. Why do you cast on 36 stitches when knitting in the round and knitted on straight needles you only cast on 33?

    1. It all has to do with gauge. The stitches are tighter when knitting in the round because you’re consistently knitting into every stitch. When flat, you are purling the stitches on the wrong side. Purl stitches are naturally a looser stitch. Hence, the difference in the number of stitches to cast on. It’s all about gauge. It’s not a mistake. It actually improves the fit of the flat knit version.

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