The ultimate thick slipper knit with super bulky yarn on straight needles. These booties for adults (up to a man’s size 14) knit up quicker than the average slipper and are super cozy and long-lasting for the wearer. Who could ask for anything more? Ummmm, maybe a finished pair??? You can order a custom colour and size here – Double Thick Hand Knit Slippers
This pattern is the extra thick version of my Adult Moccasin Slippers pattern that has been so popular over the years. As a seller of slippers, many of my customers wanted extra thick versions. Who doesn’t want their slippers to last as long as possible, am I right? So I busted out my knitting needles and a pencil to redo the math. Now you can make the slippers with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, or one strand of super bulky yarn. Take your pick. But please note, you don’t need both. Choose one or the other.
And a note about the toe flap, this version uses a stockinette toe flap instead of a garter stitch. It was too thick and lumpy to be a garter stitch. But to make my life easier, I repurposed the photos from my original Moccasin Slipper pattern that has the toe flap as a garter stitch. I’m sorry if it causes any confusion. The technique to pick up stitches along he sides is exactly the same for both versions.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Ultra Thick Slip-On Bootie Slippers. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The paperback and Kindle version are also on Amazon.
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This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos and a how-to video to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me. You can use this link – How to Knit Moccasin Slippers. The only differences between this pattern and the demo video is the toe flap is done in stockinette and of course, double thick (or extra thick) yarn. The techniques are all the same.
There is a lot of breaking and reconnecting the yarn to create the different portions of the slipper: the cuff, toe, sides and sole. I’ve created a very succinct picture tutorial showing how to work in the ends as you go so there are fewer to sew in at the end. If you do it right, you’ll only have one, and that’s the length you leave at the end to sew up the heel seam. Here’s the link to see how – Working in the Ends While Knitting. This also a handy skill to have when knitting just about anything, tbh.
Things You Need
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.
Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) standard balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
or
Super Bulky yarn – 2 standard balls of ONE colour with matching lot numbers (90 yards/82 m).
One ball makes one slipper. There will be yarn left over from each ball.
2 sets of size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Stitch holder
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
13 sts – 10 cm (4″)
22 rows – 10 cm (4”)
Sizes are written as such:
Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
To Begin
Cast on 32 (34, 36, 38, 40)
ᴥ Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across ᴥ Repeat from ᴥ to ᴥ for 6 times more for a total of 8 rows.
☺ Row 9: Knit across
Row 10: Knit 11 (12, 13, 14,15) P10 Knit 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ one more time for a total of 4 rows.
Toe Flap
Row 13: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 10 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches on the needle unworked.
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The following rows are worked back and forth on the 10 toe flap stitches only!
♠ Next row: Knit across
Next row: Purl across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more for 22 (24, 26, 28, 30) rows total.
Break yarn. You’ll have the 10 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.
Making the Sides of the Slipper
This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 10 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches. Pick up 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) stitches on this needle)
With another needle, knit the 10 stitches of the toe flap. (10 stitches on this needle)
With another needle, pick up 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12,13, 14, 15) stitches on the next needle. (22, 24, 26, 28, 30) stitches on this needle)
You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. As mentioned in the introduction, the photos have been repurposed from the original pattern. Your toe flap has less stitches across and is in stockinette.
You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.
for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!
Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 10 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.
Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) rows
There are 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.
Knit 1 more row, if required, so the WRONG side is facing you.
The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.
Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 9 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.
Making the Sole
If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video below
The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. The video is for the original pattern, but is done EXACTLY the same way for this pattern.
Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).
K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (10 stitches).
Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle. This is the hardest of all the stitches to pick up.
You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.
Next Row: Knit across.
ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (10 stitches).
Next Row: Knit across ʤ
Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.
Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.
Making the Heel
If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video by using this link – https://youtu.be/ZZ93FyF4qDIsi=FW0lLCLWZqOEIPSe&t=624
The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. Once again, this is from the original pattern, but the technique is done EXACTLY the same way.
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You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.
Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHTside facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (8 stitches).
These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.
Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.
Next Row: Knit across.
Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).
Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.
Make another slipper.
Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch around the edge of the foot and sole, allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.
Hints and Tips
If you want a straight or longer cuff at the top like in the original pattern, knit across on the right and wrong side for a garter stitch at the beginning after you cast on.
When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.
If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.
Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge. Theres a little knot nub along the edges that make it a bit easier to space evenly along.
To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.
