It wasn’t until this very moment in my life that I realized that naming a knitting pattern for winter headgear was going to be complicated. For those that don’t know about the internet and how information is found, writers have to write around keywords so web crawlers can find the information. I won’t bore you any further with that, but it does cause some, indecision, shall we say, when it comes to naming this knitting pattern. As it so happens, there are at least 3 ways to spell what I know as a touque. I’m Canadian. That’s what we call it and how I have always spelled it. My autocorrect on the other hand, is calling me a doofus and insists that it’s toque. In a state of mild rage I went to the internet to see what’s what in regard to this winter hat dilemma. Turns out there is a third option: tuque. What the actual “f”?!
I do realize that a lot of people generally refer to winter headwear as beanies. TBH that to me is a more tight fitting winter hat that conforms to the shape of your head and NEVER has a pom pom. These are the manly toques worn under hooded things like hoodies and winter jackets, especially when it gets really cold outside.
This pattern is different from most touque patterns I’ve seen and knit up over the years. I’m a little obsessed with short rows this last couple of months. So far I’ve made dishcloths and coasters and slippers using this technique. Instead of casting on all the stitches you’ll need to go around the head, this touque is knit from the forehead to the crown or top of the head. It’s still knit flat, with the shaping of the head being worked as you go. It also gives a neat vertical striping effect if you’re using self striping yarn. And just so you know, the smaller the stripes the narrower the stripes on the toque.
If you would prefer a printed copy of this pattern, there are a couple options for you. No, you don’t need to message me how you’re up in arms that you can’t print this webpage. You can keep scrolling down this page and read the pattern row by row on your phone or tablet in the comfort of your chair as you knit. A printed copy is a preference but not necessary to read and use this pattern.
If you would like a formatted, printable copy, you can purchase it from this website – Easy Knitting Pattern – Winter Beanie Toque/Touque/Tuque with Vertical Stripes, my Etsy shop, Ravelry, Google Books, Love Crafts and from Amazon for Kindle and as a paperback. Be sure you pick the correct country so shipping for your paperback is free if you are an Amazon Prime member.
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If you like the vertical stripes but have no self striping yarn, I’ve marked in the pattern where to change the colours. This makes this touque a great project to use up all those left over bits of yarn from other projects. I keep them too. I just can’t bring myself to throw out those bits. I always feel I’ll find a use for them.
But enough. You’re here to knit…
Things You Need:
Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). It may need to be more if you want a big, dense and fluffy pom pom.
Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles or whatever you need to acquire the correct gauge.
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends
Pom pom maker – or you can use the two pieces of cardboard method. I’m sure there’s a video on YouTube showing how to do this.
Gauge
In stockinette
9 sts – 5 cm (2″)
12 rows – 5 cm (2”)
Sizes are for small, medium and large and are written as such sm (med, lg).
Small – 21 inches
Medium – 22.5 inches
Large – 24 inches
Sizing is always general for knitting as it has a fair amount of stretch to it and tends to contract and expand as needed.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Starting the Toque, Touque, Tuque, Beanie….*Sigh* I give up SMH
Cast on 39 (45, 48)
Row 1: P9 (12, 12) K30 (33, 36)
Row 2: P30 (33, 36) K9 (12, 12)
♥ Row 3: K37 (43, 46) (leave last 2 sts unworked. Turn).
Row 4: P28 (31, 34) K9 (12, 12)
Row 5: P9 (12, 12) K27 (30, 33) (leave last 3 sts unworked. Turn).
Row 6: P27 (30, 33) K9 (12, 12)
Row 7: K35 (41, 44) (leave last 4 sts unworked. Turn).
Row 8: P26 (29, 32) K9 (12, 12)
Row 9: P9 (12, 12) K25 (28, 31) (leave last 5 sts unworked. Turn). ** Break yarn and change colour here if desired.
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Row 10: P25 (28, 31) K9 (12, 12)
Row 11: K35 (41, 44) (leave last 4 sts unworked. Turn).
Row 12: P26 (29, 32) K9 (12, 12)
Row 13: P9 (12, 12) K27 (30, 33) (leave last 3 sts unworked. Turn).
Row 14: P27 (30, 33) K9 (12, 12)
Row 15: K37 (43, 46) (leave last 2 sts unworked. Turn).
Row 16: P28 (31, 34) K9 (12, 12)
Row 17: P9 (12, 12) K30 (33, 36) **Break yarn and change colour here if desired.
(No need to colour change if this is the last of your repeats. Stop here and cast off on the wrong side if all repeats are complete.)
Row 18: P30 (33, 36) K9 (12, 12) ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 6 times more for a total of 7 times.
You’ll have 7 lines dividing the sections when you look at the toque from the top.
Sew up the seams, draw the top center stitches together. You don’t need to add a pom pom, but I think it looks a lot better with one.
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Hints and Tips
Any type of yarn will work for this project. It doesn’t have to be striped just because that’s how I did it. A solid colour would look just as good. Another option it to use the ombre yarns that gently shift from one colour to another. It’s nice to be able to make a beanie that has the colour transition go up and down instead of the usual horizontal way.
Colour changes have to be done in groups of 2 or 7 colours if you want to maintain the proper sequence. For example: black, white, black white, black white, etc. for 2 colours. If you want 7 different colours it would have to be something like: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, black and then repeat those colours again in that order. Of course, it you’re using up leftover yarn and aren’t repeating colours, it doesn’t matter.
Another way to think of it…there are 14 possible colour sections to this winter hat. Any number that fits equally into 14 can be repeated in sequence around the hat.
When making colour changes, you can work in the ends as you go for the first colour change. I show how to do that here – How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can also work them in with the tapestry needle when done.
The second colour change occurs at the top of the hat. I tie and knot the ends of the yarn together as I change colour. When done, I thread them up and through the pom pom and cut off the dangly bits so they blend in with it. The knots are above the crown of the head and don’t actually touch the scalp. It’s an easy, time saving short cut.
Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell, give away or keep any of the physical items you make. You are NOT permitted to reproduced this pattern in any way, including but not limited to, all digital or physical copies.
Where are rows 18 & 19? Row 20 is the same as
It was just a row numbering typo based on my notes taken when designing the pattern. It’s been fixed.