I want to start this intro off with making everyone aware that this pattern is NOT for beginners. If you are looking for something a little easier or plain I have a couple options that may work better for you. You can try Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern or see what all the options are available by going to the Fingerless Mitts and Glove section on the website.

Even though an experienced knitter will be able to make these, I have provided some photos to help with the pattern. I’m assuming you know how to carry yarn behind your work to change colours. It’s not hard to do, but you do need to watch the tension and make sure that it is neither too tight or loose and is consistent. 

I really like how this pattern turned out, though it did take some fiddling to figure out how to incorporate the lattice pattern into the gloves. Now that I’ve figured it out, I thinking about other patterns I can add this detail to ☺. Yes, I am thinking slippers!

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Lattice Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 10 US (6 mm) knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Sizing

Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 6 mm (US size 10) knitting needles

8 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

10 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Colours

MC – Main colour. The colour of the cuffs and lattice design

BG – Background colour. The colour the lattice is on. The palm and back of the hand.

HC – Highlight colour. The band at the end of the wrist section and start of the cuff at the fingers

Continue using the colour until stated to change in the pattern. 

You can use more colours than the 3 colours listed. You can use one colour and made tone on tone fingerless mitts. It’s up to you.

Right Hand

Cast on 33 sts

Row 1: With MC K across

Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: K across

Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Carry yarn behind your work for row 23 (saves an end to work in)

Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)

Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at the end of row 22.

Row 23: *With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. With BG K13. Break BG colour.

Row 24: Pass next 13 sts onto working needle. With MC YF, Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat to the end of the row. (Don’t work this stitch. Let yarn hang).

Row 25: Join BG K across.

Row 26: P across.

☼ ♣ Row 27: With MC K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times more. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. (see Abbreviations for photos to LK).

♦ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise *YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise

Row 29: With BG K across

Row 30: P across

♥ Row 31: With MC *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

■ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise * YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise, * Repeat from * to * 3 times more.

Row 33: With BG K across

Row 34: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats. 

Row 35: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 36: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 37: With BG K26 M1 K M1 K11 (40 sts)

Row 38: P across

Row 39: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 40: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 41: With BG K across

Row 42: P12 PM1 P PM1 P27 (42 sts)

Row 43: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 44: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 45: With BG K across

Row 46: P across

Row 47: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 48: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 49: With BG K28 M1 K M1 K13 (44 sts)

Row 50: P across

Row 51: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 52: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 53: With BG K across

Row 54: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P29 (46 sts)

Row 55: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 56: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 57: With BG K across

Row 58: P across

Row 59: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 60: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 61: With BG K30 M1 K1 M1 K15 (48 sts)

Row 62: P across

Row 63: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 64: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 65: With BG K across

Row 66: P16 PM1 P PM1 P31 (50 sts)

Row 67: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 68: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 69: With BG K across

Row 70: P across

Row 71: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 72: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 73: With BG K26 Pass next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K11 (37 sts)

Row 74: P across. Break BG yarn

Row 75:  Repeat ♣ Row 27. Break MC yarn. Pass the 25 sts just worked onto the other needle with 12 unworked stitches.

Row 76: With HC K4 * K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more.K2tog K4 (33 sts)

Row 77-79: Knit across

Row 80: With MC K across

Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Row 82: Repeat row 80

Row 83: Repeat row 81

Cast off.

Make Thumb

Transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle. 

☺ Row 1: With MC K across

♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K

Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1

Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2

Cast off

Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.

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Left Hand

Cast on 33 sts

Row 1: With MC K across

Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: K across

Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Break yarn.

Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts. This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)

Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at end of row 22.

Row 23: With BG K13.*With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. Break BG colour.

Row 24: With MC and YF Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat from * to * 3 times more. YF. Pass next 13 sts onto working needle.

Row 25: Join BG K across.

Row 26: P across

۞ § Row 27: With BG K13. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (see Hints and Tips andAbbreviations for photos to cross yarn and LK respectively).

۩ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise . Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

◊ Row 29: With BG K25 over the 25 sts from previous row.

Row 30: P across.

ʘ Row 31: With BG K13 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (40 sts)

▲ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise *YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 33: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 34: P across. ۞ Repeat from ۞ to ۞ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.

Row 35: With BG K11 M1 K M1 K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1 Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (40 sts)

Row 36: Repeat ۩ Row 28.

Row 37: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 38: P across

Row 39: With BG K15 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. 

Row 40: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 41: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 42: P27 PM1 P PM1 P12. (42 sts)

Row 43: With BG K17. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. 

Row 44: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

Row 45: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 46: P across

Row 47: With BG K13 M1 K M1 K3 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (44 sts)

Row 48: Repeat ▲ row 32

Row 49: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 50: P across

Row 51: With BG K19. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. 

Row 52: Repeat ۩ Row 28 

Row 53: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 54: P29 PM1 P PM1 P14 (46 sts)

Row 55: With BG K21 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. 

Row 56: Repeat ▲ row 32

Row 57: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 58: P across.

Row 59: With BG K15 M1 K M1 K5. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (48 sts)

Row 60: Repeat ۩ Row 28

Row 61: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 62: P across

Row 63: With BG K23 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. 

Row 64: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 65: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 66: P31 PM1 P PM1 P16 (50 sts)

Row 67: With BG K25. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. 

Row 68: Repeat ۩ row 28

Row 69: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 70: P across

Row 71: With BG K11. Pass the next 13 sts onto a st holder K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. LK. (37 sts)

Row 72: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 73: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 74: P across

Row 75: With BG K12 Break BG colour yarn. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Break MC. Pass ALL of the sts just worked onto the non-working needle. 

Row 76: With HC K4 *K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K2tog. K4 (33 sts)

Row 77-79: Knit across. Break yarn.

Row 80:With MC K across

Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K

Row 82: Repeat row 80

Row 83: Repeat row 81

Cast off.

Make Thumb

transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle. 

☺ Row 1: With MC K to the last st. K

♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1

Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2

Cast off

Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.

Hints and Tips

Don’t pull your yarn tight when pulling the yarn across the back of your work. Give enough slack to let the stitches stretch as they should and NOT bunch up. Not doing so will make the gauge significantly smaller and the glove won’t fit.

The lattice pattern is worked when the WRONG side is facing you. 

The palm of the hand is plain. FYI I tried to make the lattice pattern all over the mitt. It looked and felt weird and had NO stretch. 

You don’t need to add the rolled edge. Rows 1-8 create the roll. You can start with the ribbing at Row 9.

If you want to have a longer version of the glove than what is written, you may need to add more sts to the 13 st section so it will fit around the forearm. There isn’t a lot of stretch to allow for the wide part of the upper forearm.

Crossing over the yarn is straight forward. It needs to look like this or you will get odd shaped stitches.

If you are a left handed knitter, the crossing over of the yarn may need to be done on the right hand instead of the left. I’m not left handed, but logic would dictate things are reversed. In light of you being left handed, I’m assuming this isn’t the first time you’ve run across this issue.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – Purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches 

YF – pull the yarn to the FRONT of your work

YB – pull the yarn to the BACK of your work

Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle without working the stitch.

LK – loop knit. Pick up the loop running across between the sts. Knit this and the next st on the needle.

The loops on the edge are slightly harder to see but done the same way.

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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