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Posted on December 5, 2024December 5, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.

This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.

Like always, you can find the ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF version of this pattern through all my regular online purveyors of creation such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts and of course this website at Adult Moccasin Bootie Slippers – Classic Ugg Style – Knitting Pattern.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)

🦉 Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.

Row 3 – 4: K across. 🦉

Repeat from 🦉 to 🦉 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)

Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.

Break yarn when completed row 2.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

🌸 Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. 🌸

Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.

With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap.

With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Needle arrangement for textured bootie slippers — How the needle arrangement should look.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

How to knit slippers — Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif.
I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern.
The horizontal ridges look the same for you.

Making the Sole

If you need help with the sole, you can watch the video. It starts right where you need it to.

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

🐿️ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across 🐿️

Repeat from 🐿️ to 🐿️ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same
for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)

Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.

Continue to work down the length of the sole.

Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.

♥︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)

Ridges on the side of adult bootie slipper — The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges
when making the larger sizes.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).

Picking up the stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across ♥︎

Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.

Making the Heel

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.

♦︎ Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♦︎

Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!!

Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.

If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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Posted on November 12, 2024November 14, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Free Pattern: Knitted Owl Slippers with Cozy Cuff for Adults

free knitting pattern - owl slippers with a cuff

Get ready to knit a pair of slippers that are as cozy as they are charming! This knitting pattern brings together the best of warmth and whimsy, featuring a delightful owl motif perched right on top of the foot. These adult-sized slippers have been crafted with both style and function in mind, thanks to a fitted cuff that hugs your ankle for extra warmth and coziness. Perfect for chilly mornings or relaxed evenings, these slippers will be a go-to pair for any owl lover.

This pattern is designed for knitters with a bit of experience—if you’re comfortable with basic stitches, you’ll be able to follow along with ease. And don’t worry, you won’t be left to navigate the trickier parts alone! I’ve included detailed, how-to videos to help guide you through each step, ensuring that even challenging sections feel doable. Before you know it, you’ll have a cozy, owl-adorned pair of slippers that are sure to turn heads and keep feet warm.

if you are a lover of owls, then you are in LUCK! I have a number of patterns with owls including fingerless gloves, owl beanie, owl bucket hat, and an owl scarf. All are knit flat on 2 needles and are FREE to read on this website. Click any of the links and a new window will open a new page with the entire pattern there for you to enjoy.

You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Owl Slippers with a Cuff – Knitting Pattern. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, CreativeFabrica and Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 🥰.

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Happy Knitting!

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough).
You can use a second colour for the cuff.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable Needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy video tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. The embedded video is in the Abbreviations section

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

2” = 9 sts

2” = 18 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Cuff

With CUFF colour

Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) loosely

 Row 1: K across

Row 2: With the RIGHT side facing you, (K1 P2) across. Maintain this pattern with any remaining sts at the end of the row. 

Repeat from  to  10 (12, 14, 16) times more for a total of 12 (14, 16, 18) rows

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, P across.

Next Row: K across. If cuff colour differs from the MAIN colour, break yarn now. Start the new colour when done knitting this row.

Next Row: K across for 13 (15, 17, 19) rows. Break yarn.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With the MAIN colour and the WRONG side of the ribbing facing you, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

Knit across for 7 (9, 9, 11) rows.

Next Row (with the RIGHT side of the ribbing facing you): K3 P2 K4 P2 K3

Next Row (with the WRONG side of the ribbing facing you): K2 P1 K8 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

♦ Next Row: K2 P1 C4F C4B P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

♥ Next Row: K2 P1 K8 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 more times

Next Row: Repeat row marked with ♦

Next Row: K3 P2 K4 P2 K3

♪ Next Row: K2 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P2 K4 P2 K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times

Next Row: Repeat row marked with ♦

Next Row: K across for 5 (7, 7, 9) rows.

More of My Stuff on Etsy

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Sides of Foot

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12, 13,14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14) rows

There are 4 (5, 6, 7) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The following photo shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 12 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The link starts the video in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - picking up stitches

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).

Working your way down the sides — Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole — Starting the sole. Right side.

Making the Heel

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.

Child moccasin slippers - Picking up stitches to make the heel.

Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).

Owl Slippers knitting pattern — The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern — Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and K3tog).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Make sure to increase the same amount of garter stitch rows and ribbed rows equally. If increasing 10 rows, do so on both.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. You can watch the how to video here – how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on October 14, 2024October 17, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Knitted Deer Slippers with a Cuff – FREE Knitting Pattern

I’ve always wanted to design a pair of slippers that had a bit more character and substance—something that not only looks good but fits snugly and keeps you cozy. The deer motif on top of the foot gives these slippers a rustic charm, while the substantial cuff provides extra warmth and a secure fit. These slippers are great for knitters who are comfortable with basic stitches and ready to dive into something a bit more intricate.

This pattern is packed with various cable stitches, so you’ll get plenty of practice with your cable needle. The cables vary—sometimes you’ll be knitting the stitches on the cable needle, sometimes purling, and the number of stitches will also change. To keep things simple, I explain how to work each cable stitch as you go along, so you won’t need to constantly check the Abbreviations section.

This isn’t a beginner pattern, but if you’re familiar with the basics of knitting and feel comfortable using a cable needle, you’ll be able to handle this. I’ve included lots of helpful photos to guide you through the deer motif, so you’ll have plenty of visual aids as you knit.

You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knitted Deer Moccasin Slippers with a Cuff. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, CreativeFabrica and Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 🥰. If a link isn’t working, I either haven’t formatted it for the distributor or I’m waiting for approval.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

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Happy Knitting!

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough)

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable Needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy video tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. The embedded video is in the Abbreviations section

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

2” = 9 sts

2” = 18 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Toe Flap

Cast on 14 sts

🦌 Row 1: P across

Row 2: K across 🦌

Repeat from 🦌 to 🦌 2 (3, 4, 5) times more for a total of 6 (8, 10, 12) rows

Next Row: P6 K2 P6

Next Row: K5 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. P the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, P the next st. P the st on the cable needle. K5

🌼 Next Row: P5 K4 P5

Next Row: K5 P4 K5 🌼 Repeat from 🌼 to 🌼 one more time

Next Row: P4 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. K the st on the cable needle. K2 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, K the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P4

Next Row: K4 P6 K4

Next Row: P4 K6 P4

Next Row: K4 P6 K4

Next Row: P3 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next 2 sts. K the st on the cable needle. K2 Pick up the next 2 sts with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, K the next st. K the 2 sts on the cable needle. P3

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

Next Row: P3 K2 P1 K1 PM1 K1 P1 K2 P3 (15 sts)

Next Row: K3 P2 K1 P1 K1 M1 P1 K1 P2 K3 (16 sts)

Next Row: P3 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) P1 K1 P2 K1 P1 K2tog (as you normally would left to right) P3 (14 sts) This video shows how to knit the first K2tog. It’s for the leaf but it’s done the same way.

Next Row: K5 P1 K2 P1 K5

Next Row: P4 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K1 in the st BELOW (see photos). P1 the st on the cable needle. K1 P2 K1 P1 K1 in the 2^nd st BELOW (knit this st in the knit st you made before the P1 as shown in the photos). P4 (16 sts)

How to knit deer antlers — *Knit in the stitch below*

*The other antler.*
*You already knitted the st so it needs to be*
*2 sts down as shown. This is the st that is*
*bold and italicized in the pattern.*

Next Row: K4 P1 K1 P1 K2 P1 K1 P1 K4

Next Row: P3 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. P the st on the cable needle. P1 K1 P2 K1 P1 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P3

Next Row: K3 P1 K2 P1 K2 P1 K2 P1 K3

Next Row: P2 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. P the st on the cable needle. P8 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P2

Next Row: K2 P1 K10 P1 K2

🍄 Next Row: P across

Next Row: K16 🍄 Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 1 (2, 3, 4) times more. If you want a different colour for the cuff, break yarn when the last row is completed.

Making the Cuff

Next Row:(with the optional cuff colour) K16. Cast on an additional 11 (12, 13, 14). You now have 27 (28, 29, 30) sts on your needle.

Next Row: K27 (28, 29, 30). Cast on an additional 11 (12, 13, 14). You now have 38 (40, 42, 44) sts on your needle.

Next Rows: K across for a total of 13 (15, 17, 19) rows.

Next Row: With the WRONG side facing you, P across.

🌸 🐿️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing you, (K1 P2) across. Maintain this pattern with any remaining sts at the end of the row.

Next Row: K across. 🌸 Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 6 (7, 8, 9) times more. For a total of 14 (16, 18, 20) rows.

Repeat the row marked with 🐿️ one more time.

Cast off loosely with the WRONG side facing you.

If you would like to change the colour around the toe and foot, change colour now.

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Sides of Foot

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 13 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches evenly along the edge of the cuff and place onto one of your needles. Pick up 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (29, 32, 35, 38) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 13 stitches evenly along the end of the toe flap.

With another needle, pick up 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Pick up 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches evenly along the edge of the cuff and place onto the next needle. (29, 32, 35, 38) stitches on this needle)

*I used a capped double pointed needle to work my 13 stitches*
*for the end of the toe. A regular needle also works.*

Knit the next 8 (10, 10, 12) rows

There are 4 (5, 5, 6) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 12 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The link starts the video in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Making the Heel

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain. End with the K across row.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. K3tog. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches). to sew up the remaining seam. Fold the cuff over when done sewing.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

Picking up the stitch to make the second branch of the antler is sort of up to you. If you pick up the stitch right below where you just knitted, it won’t be a disaster. Most deer antlers aren’t perfectly symmetrical in real life anyways. In fact, the more off they are, the more desirable; especially if it has a drop tine.

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Make sure to increase the same amount of garter stitch rows and ribbed rows.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 together

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how.

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would. Watch this video to see how.

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on September 19, 2024October 4, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit

Welcome to the next book in the series of my collection of knitting patterns! If you enjoyed my Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitts to Knit, I’m sure you’ll enjoy this one just as much.

This delightful collection of practical yet stylish fingerless glove designs is sure to inspire knitters of all skill levels. Each pattern is knit flat on two straight needles, making them accessible even to those who may be new to knitting or prefer simpler techniques. Whether you’re a beginner eager to complete your first project or an intermediate knitter looking to expand your repertoire with charming new details, this collection offers something for everyone.

The designs range from playful, whimsical animals that add a touch of fun to your wardrobe, to elegant leaves and decorative motifs that showcase a refined sense of style. Each pattern is thoughtfully crafted with the perfect balance of simplicity and creativity, ensuring that the process is as enjoyable as the result.

As you work through the patterns, you’ll find yourself fully supported by helpful step-by-step videos and detailed photos, making even the trickiest techniques feel approachable. With these resources, you’ll gain confidence in your knitting skills and be able to complete each glove with pride. This collection will not only add a unique flair to your knitting projects but will also fill your crafting time with joy and satisfaction.

free knitting pattern fingerless gloves - zigzag elegance

Free knitting pattern fingerless gloves, mitts, mittens, wrist warmers

Knit Spider Gloves - Fre Knitting Pattern - Fingerless Gloves with Spiders

Hippo fingerless mittens - free knitting pattern

Knit fingerless gloves - knit flat on straight needles

There are a number of options available to make the fingerless gloves. All the fingerless gloves patterns are free to read on this website. You can use this link – Fingerless Glove and Mitten Patterns to see all of them. I listed them all individually at the end of this post if you are looking for a specific one. 😁

Another option is to purchase and print the pattern yourself. If you are ok with printing the 104 page document, you can buy it from this website – Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit or from my Etsy shop. You can click or tap either of those links to see the collection.

If you would prefer to have the paperback version fully printed, bound and sent directly to your door, you can order the book online from Amazon. Be sure to click on your country so shipping will be as low as possible. If you are an Amazon Prime Member, the shipping is free! If you have a Kindle, the cheaper, digital version is available at the same links.

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

I understand that not everyone is in the financial position to purchase patterns, and that’s ok. That’s why I offer them for free; to enable anyone to use my work and be able to enjoy and even profit from it. That’s why while I give permission for everyone to sell what they make from my patterns, I ask that you respect the patterns themselves. Do NOT make illegal copies of them.

If you know someone who wants to use the patterns, send them the link so they can read the pattern online themselves. It helps me VERY much when you do this. More people on the website tell search engines that what is on my site is valuable and people like it. This makes it more likely that Google, Bing, Yahoo, etc will suggests my patterns when people do a search online.

To make sharing the patterns even easier, there are floating share buttons along the side of this and every page of the website. All you need to do is click it to share it. You can also use these share buttons to share this page.

Now that we’re through all that, here is the list of individual patterns that you can read online for free.

Basic Fingerless Gloves

Knitted Owl Fingerless Gloves

Zigzag Eleganc e

Easy to Knit Cable Fingerless Gloves

Autumn Leaf Half Glove s

Spider Fingerless Glove s

Hippo Fingerless Glove s

Lattice Fingerless Gloves

I hope you enjoy this latest addition to my knitting compilations!

Happy knitting everyone!!!

Posted on September 4, 2024September 5, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Easy to Knit Cable Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

I’m thrilled to share my latest knitting pattern for fingerless mitts, and yes, my love for these cozy accessories shows no sign of stopping! This time around, I’ve added a twist—quite literally—with a unique cable pattern that elegantly winds its way down the back of the hand. It’s a design element that adds both texture and visual interest, making these mitts a true standout piece.

If you’re someone who’s mastered the basics and is looking to elevate your knitting game, this pattern is the perfect next step. It’s designed to bridge the gap between a beginner and an experienced knitter. And if cabling is new to you, don’t worry—this is the ideal project to dive in and learn something new! I’ve made sure to include video tutorials in the Abbreviations section to guide you through the cabling process, so you’ll have all the support you need.

But that’s not all! I’ve also added links to help you with any other potentially tricky parts of the pattern, like increasing for the thumb gusset. I want to ensure you feel confident and supported every step of the way. So, grab your needles, and let’s knit something beautiful together!

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Easy Cable Knit Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

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Things You Will Need

Worsted weight yarn (less than 100 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves as written. I know because I weighed them). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of single pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew the seams and work in ends

Cable needle

Sizing

Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.

hand sizing for knitting gloves mitts and mittens

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4) single pointed needles

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6) single pointed needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Left Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1

Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.

Row 7: K15 P1 K16 P1 K3

✰ Row 8: P3 K1 P16 K1 P15

❀ Row 9: K15 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8

Row 11: K15 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Row 12: Repeat ✰Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.

Next row: K12 M1 K M1 K2 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (38 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P17

Next row: K17 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 PM1 P PM1 P13 (40 sts)

Next row: K19 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P19

Next row: K14 M1 K M1 K4 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (42 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P21

Next row: K21 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P5 PM1 P PM1 P15 (44 sts)

Next row: K23 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P23

Next row: K16 M1 K M1 K6 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (46 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P25

Next row: K25 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P7 PM1 P PM1 P17 (48 sts)

Next row: K27 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P27

Next row: K12 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K2 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (35 sts)

❤ Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P14

Next row: K14 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤

✪ Next row: ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 3 sts P2 K1

Next row: P1 ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 2 sts. K2 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.

Cast off

Thumb

Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Cast off

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Right Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1

Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.

Row 7: K3 P1 K16 P1 K15

✰ Row 8: P15 K1 P16 K1 P3

❀ Row 9: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K15

Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8

Row 11: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K15

Row 12: Repeat ✰ Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K2 M1 K M1 K12 (38 sts)

Next row: P17 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K17

Next row: P13 PM1 P PM1 P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 (40 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K19

Next row: P19 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K4 M1 K M1 K14 (42 sts)

Next row: P21 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K21

Next row: P15 PM1 P PM1 P5 K1 P16 K1 P3 (44 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K23

Next row: P23 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K6 M1 K M1 K16 (46 sts)

Next row: P25 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K25

Next row: P17 PM1 P PM1 P7 K1 P16 K1 P3 (48 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K27

Next row: P27 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K2 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K12 (35 sts)

❤ Next row: P14 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K14

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤

✪ Next row: K ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 2 sts P2

Next row: ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 3 sts. K2 P1 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.

Cast off

Thumb

Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Cast off

Sew the seams of the thumbs and along the side of each hand. Work in the ends.

Hints and Tips

You can make the gloves as long or as short as you like. I made 3 repeats of the design. You could do less for a shorter version. The grey pair were repeated 7 times to give you an idea of what it looks like when longer.

Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – Purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on July 23, 2024September 8, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Cozy Knitted Lace Up Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knit Lace Up Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

Perfect for new knitters, these slippers are knit flat on just two needles, making them an ideal project for beginners or anyone looking for a straightforward, relaxing knit.

These charming slippers feature a lace-up design at the front, adding a delightful touch of customization and ensuring a snug fit. You can easily adjust the colours to match your personal style or to use up those leftover yarns in your stash.

Whether you’re knitting for yourself, a loved one, a thoughtful handmade gift, or to sell, these slippers are sure to bring warmth and comfort to any pair of feet. So, gather your materials, find a cozy spot, and let’s get started on creating your very own pair of Cozy Lace-Up Slippers!

If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Cozy Knitted Lace Up Slippers, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and the Kindle and paperback versions are available on Amazon.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 354 yard, 7 oz or 324 m, 198 gram ball will be more than enough to make single colour slippers).

Size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. If you are using multiple colours, you can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men’s size 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Unlike most knitting patterns, this pattern’s right side and wrong side are reversed. All ODD numbered rows are the WRONG side and all the EVEN numbered rows are the RIGHT side.

If you need help with the M1, there is a video in the Hints and Tips section.

With lace up section colour, cast on 52 (60, 60, 68) sts. Leave a longer length to sew the top of the toe (about 18 inches).

Row 1 (wrong side): K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4

Row 2 (right side): K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8

Row 3: As row 1

Row 4: K4 (P2 K2) to last 8 sts. P8

Row 5: As row 1

Row 6: As row 4

Row 7: As row 1

Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. (ie. red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple). See Hints and Tips section for more information.

♠ Row 8: K to last 8 sts. P8

Row 9: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)

Change to colour for heel section.

♦ ☺ Row 20: K to last 8 sts. P8

Row 21: K across ☺

Row 22: K to last 8 sts. M1 P8

Row 23: As row 21 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 3 more times. (56, 64, 64, 72 sts)

Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 0 (1, 2, 3) times more for an additional 0 (2, 4, 6) rows.

♫ Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8

Next row: K across

Next row: K to the last 10 sts. K2tog. P8

Next row: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 3 more times. (52, 60, 60, 68)

Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. Remember to knit the rows in the reverse order you did originally (ie. purple, blue, green, yellow, orange, red)

♣ Next row: As row 8

Next row: As row 9 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)

Change to lace up section colour

Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8

Next row: K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4

Next row: As row 4

Next row: As row 1

Next row: As row 4

Next row: As row 1

Next row: K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8 (As row 2)

Next row: Repeat row 1

Cast off

Make another slipper to match.

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Slipper Laces (make 2)

If you know how to crochet, you can use a size 5 mm (US size 8) and chain as many sts to make it 3 times the length of the slipper. Slip stitch in every chain. Tie off. Stretch out the lace when done.

If you want to knit it instead, cast on 140 (160, 1600, 180) sts. Cast off. Stretch out the lace when done.

You can also braid 3 lengths of yarn to form the lace. I’m not sure how long of lengths you’ll need to do this.

How I laced up the slipper. The lace up areas are sewn together but you don’t have to.

Hints and Tips

There are 12 rows (6 ridges) that form the pattern on the side of the slipper after the lace up area. You can change colours any way you would like for this section. I’ve shown a number of combinations: 1 colour (beige), 2 colour alternating (purple), 3 colour lighter to darker (browns), 6 colour (rainbow), but you may want to try something else.

*The 6 colours are 2 rows each for a total of 12 rows.*

To sew the seams, use a simple whip stitch for the toe and the lace up section. You don’t want thick seams for these slippers. And speaking of the lace up section, you don’t have to sew it all the way. Up part way, past the toes, will work. I sewed mine all the way up to the rolled cuff. I like how it fits, looks and feels when it’s sewn all the way. But that’s just my preference.

Use the whip stitch when sewing the toes. Draw the stitches together as tightly as you can to draw them together to give a rounder look. To have them draw together even tighter, when you are done with the whip stitch, pull the ends through each corner. Flip the slipper inside out. Weave in each end. When doing this pull the yarn ends even tighter and work the end back on itself to secure it.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

P2tog – purl to sts together.

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch.

K2tog – knit 2 sts together.

YO – yarn over. With this pattern, when you go from making the purl st to the knit st, don’t pull the yarn to the back of your work. The YO is forming the hole to weave the lace through.

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on June 17, 2024July 4, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Knit Flat Bucket Hat – with OWLS! Free Knitting Pattern

This is an old riff on a new design. As you may know, I have a thing for owls. I’m also starting to develop a thing for hats. In particular, bucket hats. I have a crochet version and a double thick knit version done thus far. With this hat, the owls can easily be replaceable with any design. And yes, I will be replacing it with various stitch patterns, colours and the like. I may even redesign it so it’s knit in the round on multiple needles so there’s no seam. If you would like that pattern, let me know in the comments.

Unlike my other plain knitted bucket hat, this one doesn’t require anything beyond a single pair of knitting needles and a cable needle. If you’ve made my other owl projects like the scarf, fingerless gloves and the beanie hat, then you’ll be able to make this up in no time.

If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

Not a fan of reading things online or would like to print this pattern? You can download the ad free PDF version of this pattern for a small here – Knit Owl Bucket Hat, from Ravelry, LoveCrafts, my Etsy S hop or as a Kindle or paperback from Amazon.

Another option, become a member on this site. It’s not overly expensive, only $3 per month, and you can cancel at any time.

In the exclusive member area, I’ve listed all of my patterns by category and you can download them with a single click. No waiting for links through an email. Simply click the link, the pattern downloads, and depending on your computer or smart device settings, opens automatically. Easy peasy. Once you become a member, you can also read the pattern online without ads or pop-ups. Interested? Click the link below…

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)

4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

16 buttons or jewels for eyes

Gauge

In stockinette

10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizes are written as such:

S-M (L-XL)

Top

With main colour

Cast on 5

Row 1: INC across (10 sts)

If there are any stitches that you don’t know how to make, please go to the Abbreviations section at the end of the pattern. I embedded the how-to YouTube videos for you to watch there. 😊

Row 2: P across (always P across for every even row, or WRONG side, until told otherwise directed in the instructions)

Row 3: *K1 M1 * Repeat from * to * until last 2 sts. K2 (18 sts)

Row 5: ♠ K2 M1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ until last 2 sts. K2 (26 sts)

Row 7: ♦ K3 M1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until last 2 sts. K2 (34 sts)

Row 9: ♥ K4 M1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until last 2 sts. K2 (42 sts)

Row 11: ♪ K5 M1 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ until last 2 sts. K2 (50 sts)

Row 13: ▲ K6 M1 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ until last 2 sts. K2 (58 sts)

Row 15: ☼ K7 M1 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ until last 2 sts. K2 (66 sts)

Row 17: ⌂ K8 M1 ⌂ Repeat from ⌂ to ⌂ until last 2 sts. K2 (74 sts)

Row 19: ∞ K9 M1 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ until last 2 sts. K2 (82 sts)

Row 21: ♣ K10 M1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ until last 2 sts. K2 (90 sts)

Stop here if making the sm/med size hat. Go to row marked with ■ and skip row 23 and 24.

Row 23: ◄ K11 M1 ◄ Repeat from ◄ to ◄ until last 2 sts. K2 (98 sts)

Owl Band

■ Change colour for top stripe.

Next 4 rows: K across.

Change colour for owls.

Next row (right side): K across.

Next row (wrong side): K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1(2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ɵ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) ɵ Repeat from ɵ to ɵ 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ɸ P1(2) C4F C4B P2 ɸ Repeat from ɸ to ɸ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 Ʊ K2 P8 K1(2) Ʊ Repeat from Ʊ to Ʊ 7 times more. K1

☺Next row (right side): P1 ¤ P1(2) K8 P2 ¤ Repeat from ¤ to ¤ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ɚ K2 P8 K1(2) ɚ Repeat from ɚ to ɚ 7 times more. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺

2 times more.

Next row: P1 ☻ P1(2) C2F C2B P2 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1

◊ Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1 (2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ȸ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) ȸ Repeat from ȸ to ȸ 7 times more. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊

4 times more.

Change colour for bottom stripe.

Next row: K1 ∆ K1(2) C4F C4B K2 ∆ Repeat from ∆ to ∆ 7 times more. K1

Next 3 rows: K across

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Brim

Change to main colour.

Next row: * K2 M1 K1* Repeat across. K0(2). (120 (162 sts)

۞ Next row: K0(2) ♥ P3 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ across

Next row: K across

Next row: Repeat row marked with ۞

Next row: ♫ INC K3 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ across. K0(2). (150 (162 sts)

Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across

§ Next row: K across

Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across § Repeat from § to § 2 more times.

Cast off.

Hints and Tips

Unlike the other knit bucket hat I have, there is nothing overly tricky about this one. It knits flat on one set of needles making it much easier to make.

Blocking your final project is always up to you. Most things I make I never block. I did with the smaller version (yellow with the yarn eyes) so it would fit the mannequin head better. I cannot recommend a steamer enough! There are a variety on Amazon for fairly cheap. These use nothing but steam, and even when using acrylic yarn, it still holds its shape while relaxing the stitches and doesn’t squash the knitting like a standard iron will.

I also decided to try embroidering on the eyes for the owls. I’m also running out of the half cabochons for eyes so I kinda had to. Do I love it? I don’t hate it and prefer the half cabs but that’s just me. All I did was run a single strand of yarn behind the owls and embroider over the stitches in the eye position. You can see the yarn running behind a bit. If it was a lighter yarn behind a darker colour it would look better. I also left enough yarn between eyes to stretch with the hat. Make sure it’s not too tight if you do this!

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch Click this link to watch this video to see how.

Posted on May 5, 2024May 5, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Knit Flat Owl Beanie, Scarf and Fingerless Glove Collection

Owl beanie, scarf and fingerless gloves - Knit flat on 2 needles

The knitted owl hat, scarf and mitt collection is now available and you have a few options to choose from. There is the ad-supported, free web versions, the printable 3 patterns in one PDF, and last but not least, the paperback and Kindle versions are now on Amazon! Keep scrolling down the page to see all the options to choose from.

These patterns use very basic stitches, making it a great pattern collection for newbies and super quick for those with more experience. The patterns themselves only involve the knit and purl stitch, k2tog, and cabling. I added scannable QR codes to how-to videos to help you along if you are a new knitter or just need a bit of extra help with how to do cable stitches.

If you would like to get the paperback, you can find it on Amazon. Make sure that you select your country so if you are a Prime Member on Amazon, shipping is included in the final price.

The print and Kindle versions are only in English. Other language are not available.

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

If you’d prefer to print the 3 pattern collection yourself, there are a couple options for you also. You can buy the printable PDF from my Etsy shop here:

Owl Knitting Patterns – Owls Scarf Beanie Hat Toque Mitts Gloves Wrist Warmers – 3 Pattern Owl Collection

Or from my website here:

Owls Scarf, Beanie and Fingerless Gloves Knitting Pattern Collection

The patterns still exist in their ad-supported, free read-only versions on the website. You can find these at the following pages:

How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

How to Knit a Scarf – with OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

If you don’t want all of the patterns (I don’t know why you wouldn’t, but I won’t judge 😉) you can also buy individual patterns here on my website Knit Owl Beanie Hat, Knitted Owl Fingerless Gloves, and Knit Owl Scarf.

and in my Etsy shop: Knit Owl Beanie Hat, Knitted Owl Fingerless Gloves, and Knit Owl Scarf.

I hope you enjoy them all in whatever way you prefer.

Posted on April 9, 2024September 8, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern

These colourful, cuffed owl fingerless mitts are made to match my very popular Owl Beanie and Owl Scarf, also knit flat on two needles. You can click the links if you would like to make either one; or both 😉. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page.

I’ve made these owl wrist warmers similar to my original knit flat owl half gloves but with this version, they are knit from the fingers to the wrist cuff. The owls are made from feet to head, matching the aforementioned hat and scarf. There is a slight difference with the appearance of the owls when made from head to feet and I couldn’t live with that. Once you see it you can’t not see it, if you know what I mean.

And since I was doing a redesign, I figured I should make the cuffs match. So I did. I did two versions of the glove. One with a rolled cuff edge (blue and brown) and one without (green). It is clearly marked in the pattern where to stop knitting and cast off depending on the edging you want. And speaking of the final appearance of the granny gloves, there is no reason that these gloves have to match anything. You can also knit them in a single colour. It really is up to you and what look you are after.

To make the thumb gusset blend as much as possible and match on both sides of the thumb, there are different ways to knit and purl the stitches together. It changes whether it is on the left or the right side of the thumb. It is noted how to knit and purl the stitches in the pattern. I’ve also added links to a helpful how-to video to show you how. You don’t have to make the stitches the way I did, but it gives a much better overall look. There’s more about this in the Hints and Tips section.

If casting on the 13 stitches for the thumb or picking up stitches is confusing for you, there is also a video to help you with that too. The link is after the Hints and Tips section.

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. The Amazon link goes to the US store. If ordering the paperback, make sure you pick the region where you live!

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

4 – 8 mm flat back cabochons or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizing

Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.

To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, The gloves will stretch a bit as the stitches relax.

Right Hand

Cast on 34 sts

◊ Row 1: K across

Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)

To save yourself time if you’re changing colours, I suggest that you Work in the Ends While Knitting.

Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)

Row 12: P5 K1 P8 K1 P19

Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts K6 C4B C4F K6

If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos below:

Row 14: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P32

Row 15: K35 P4 K8

Row 16: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P14

If you need some extra help with making these stitches, you can click this link How to P2tog and K2tog to Make the Gusset or watch the video below

Row 17: K33 P4 K8

Row 18: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P30

Row 19: K14 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K8 P4 K8

This is the same video as above but automatically starts at the how to K2tog section.

Row 20: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P28

Row 21: K31 P4 K8

Row 22: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P14.

Row 23: K27 C4B C4F K6

Row 24: P5 K1 P8 K1 P26

Row 25: K14 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K20

Row 26: P5 K1 P8 K1 P24

Row 27: K across

Row 28: P5 K1 P8 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P14

Row 29: K across

Row 30: P5 K1 P8 K1 P22

Row 31: K14 K3tog (from left to right) K6 C4B C4F K6

Row 32: P5 K1 P8 K1 P20

(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)

Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)

Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.

☺ Row39: K across

Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.

Continue with the rest of the pattern if you would like a rolled edge to match the edging of the owl beanie hat. If you don’t like the rolled edge, cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.

◘ Row 49: K across

Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.

Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.

Thumb

With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.

Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)

Row 5: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1

Row 6: K across

Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1

Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.

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Left Hand

Cast on 34 sts

◊ Row 1: K across

Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)

Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)

Row 12: P19 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 13: K6 C4B C4F K6 Cast on 13 sts K14

Row 14: P32 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 15: K8 P4 K35

Row 16: P14 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 17: K8 P4 K33

Row 18: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 19: K8 P4 K8 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K14

Row 20: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 21: K8 P4 K31

Row 22: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5

Row 23: K6 C4B C4F K27

Row 24: P26 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 25: K20 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K14

Row 26: P24 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 27: K across

Row 28: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P5 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 29: K across

Row 30: P22 K1 P8 K1 P5

Row 31: K6 C4B C4F K6 K3tog (from left to right) K14

Row 32: P20 K1 P8 K1 P5

(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)

Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)

Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.

☺ Row39: K across

Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.

◘ Row 49: K across

Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.

Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.

Thumb

With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.

Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)

Row 5: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1

Row 6: K across

Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1

Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.

Hints and Tips

If you don’t P2tog and K2tog as indicated in the pattern, you’ll end up with one very defined line on one side of the thumb gusset, and a much less refined edge on the other. I tried many combos to make the side of the gusset match. Making the stitches as indicated in the pattern allow for this.

This photo is what the thumb gusset will look like if you knit and purl the stitches without following the instructions.

You don’t need to add the extra garter and ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.

You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.

Watch the Helpful Thumb Video

If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb The video is for a different fingerless glove style, but is a very similar technique.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

P2tog – purl 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 stitches together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Posted on February 1, 2024February 3, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults – FREE Knitting Pattern

Ribbed moccasin bootie slippers for adults - green

Shocker. Another slipper design 😂 I really do like this style of slipper but after designing the basic moccasin slipper, I was thinking of ways that I can gussy it up a bit if you will. I liked the idea of doing ribbing around it, simply for the additional visual appeal. When I started I didn’t realize how complicated it would be to make the ribbing line up regardless of the sizing. But I gave it some thought, did the math and tahdah! The ribbed moccasins slippers have arrived.

Like the original design, this style of slipper is knit flat on straight needles. The only catch is that it use 2 sets of needles. Don’t worry though. I’ve added a number of photos to help you along. There’s even a few videos for specific stitches and techniques on YouTube if you need extra help.

If you would prefer a printable, ad-avoiding version, you can download the PDF version of this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults. You can also get it at a number of other online retailers such as Ravelry, CreativeFabrica, DeviantArt and Etsy. There is also the Kindle and Paperback versions available on Amazon.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough).

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. (You can watch the embedded video in the Hints and Tips section too).

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Cast on 42 (46, 46, 50)

♠ Row 1: P across

Row 2: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows

♫ Row 9: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 9 (10, 10, 11) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).

Row 10: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ for a total of 10 (10, 12, 12) rows.

Next Row: Repeat row 9.

Toe Flap

Next Row: Pass the next 14 (16, 16, 18) sts on to a stitch holder. K1 M1 K12 M1 K1. Leave the remaining sts unworked on your non-working needle. Turn

♣ ☺ Next Row: P3 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. P1

Next Row: K across. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 12 (12, 14, 14) times more.

Repeat the row marked with ☺. 28 (28, 36, 36) rows for the toe flap.

Making the Sides

Next Row: Put the sts on the stitch holder back on a knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing and with your first needle, K14 (16, 16, 18). Pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the first st of the stockinette stripe and in the M1.

Right side of slipper

With your second needle along the sts of the toe flap, K2tog (To make it blend more into the slipper, pick up the first st as if to knit, twist this st and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit this and the next st together going from RIGHT to LEFT. You can also knit the 2 sts together as you normally would if you want.) K12 K2tog (as you normally would).

With your third needle, pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the M1 and the first st of the stockinette stripe. K14 (16, 16, 20).

Left side of the slipper. (I accidentally dropped the next 2 sts when taking the photo)

Your 3 needles will look like this

♥ Next Row: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 17 (18, 20, 21) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).

Next Row: K across ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 (3, 4, 5).

With the WRONG side facing you, cast off 30 (32, 36, 38) sts. (Maintain the P2 K2 pattern while casting off) P1 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. Cast off the remaining sts maintaining the P2 K2 pattern. Bind off

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Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide below, you can watch the how-to video embedded here. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. The video is for a different style of slipper, but it is made EXACTLY the same way.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Your slipper will look like the slipper above. (I’m using a similar design to more clearly show the cast off stitches.)

Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Making the Heel

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper by working on the 14 sole sts already on your needle, and picking up a st on each side of the needle.

I’ve made a specific video showing how to make the heel. It’s for a number of different styles, but it works the same for all.

Please note: the video decreases every other row. This pattern calls for decreasing EVERY row after the first one or two rows (depending on size). I’ve included photos but if you are still confused, please watch the video embedded below.

♠ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 0 (0, 1, 1) time.

◘ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next row: Knit across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the side. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Hints and Tips

I make my K2tog a little differently at the top of the toe only because how the t looks when you knit the two together can look off. I’m very picky though. It doesn’t really matter.

When picking up the first 2 and last 2 sts along the toe, you don’t have to go through the M1. Once again, I’m just overly particular about what it looks like. What works for you will be fine.

There is a lot of breaking and rejoining of yarn with this pattern. I have made a complete tutorial showing How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can watch the video right here.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on November 8, 2023January 23, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

Are you just learning to knit? Tired of making dishcloths and scarves and want to make something awesome? Here is something that will make you look like a pro when it comes to knitting. A total brag-worthy design that any knitting newbie can make.

I’ve written a bunch of beginner patterns for slippers, but never for fingerless gloves. It was a common request, but for some reason, I never felt compelled to do so. After a bit of false starts and redesigns, I’ve finally come up with a fingerless glove pattern that I am happy with. I’ve kept the seams to a minimum and placed the seam along the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb. If you’re not a fan of seams my other fingerless gloves and mitts knitted on dpn can be found here – Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS, How to Knit Texting Mittens, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves and How to Knit Flip Mitts.

These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches. If you need help with increasing stitches, there is a video showing how to increase when making the P1 and the M1.I also just made a video showing How to Use a Stitch Holder. You can click those links to watch the how-to videos. They are also embedded at the end of this page. Scroll to the bottom to watch.

I’ve also jazzed up this basic design a bit. If you want to knit owl gloves flat on 2 needles just like this pattern is, You can use this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to read the free knitting pattern online.

I’ve also written the pattern to fit different sizes – small, medium and large. Once again I’ll use the analogy of what fits my hand. I wear a medium rubber glove and the medium size fits my hand perfectly. I wash dishes and scrub my toilets. I wear gloves when I do. If you never wear rubber or latex gloves, this won’t make any sense to you, I guess. I’m only saying this because I have had complaints about my sizing references. I don’t live in a gloveless kind of world but I’m glad some people do. It always amazes me what some “Karens” feel the need to bitch about ? If you want to go to a specific size you can try these links. If I’ve done my code correctly, it should take you to the right point on the webpage:

Small
Medium
Large

I’ve made a PDF download for this pattern. I didn’t think it was going to be this long until I wrote it out. I made the decision to write each size and hand out separately to make it even easier for the new knitters out there who want to give this pattern a go. And btw, you can totally do it! To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and from this website – KweenBee.com.

If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. Available in English only.

I also plan on making a how-to video for this. It will cover the medium size as that’s what most people order when I sell online. I always am hopeful I’ll get the videos done in a timely manner, but they’re always more work than I think they’re going to be. You can check out my other videos in the meantime with this handy link – KweenBee on YouTube – Janis Frank.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clocking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing.

2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts

2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows

If You Need Help with the M1 or P1

Scroll down to the end of the page to watch quick how-to videos showing how to do these simple stitches. There’s a video showing how to use a stitch holder too!

Things You Need:

You can click any link below to see what you need.

Worsted weight yarn

Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle

Small

Right Hand

Cast on 31

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K18 M1 K1 M1 K12

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P12 PM1 P3 PM1 P18

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K18 M1 K5 M1 K12

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P12 PM1 P7 PM1 P18

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K18 M1 K9 M1 K12

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: K18. Slip the next 11 stitches onto a stitch holder. K12.

Row 38: Purl across

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41-48: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 11 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 31

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K12 M1 K1 M1 K18

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P18 PM1 P3 PM1 P12

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K12 M1 K5 M1 K18

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P18 PM1 P7 PM1 P12

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K12 M1 K9 M1 K18

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: K12. Slip the next 11 stitches onto a stitch holder. K18.

Row 38: Purl across

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41-48: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 11 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Medium

Right Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K19 M1 K1 M1 K13

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P19

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K19 M1 K5 M1 K13

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P19

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K19 M1 K9 M1 K13

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P19

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K19. Slip the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K13.

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-52: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 33

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K13 M1 K1 M1 K19

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P19 PM1 P3 PM1 P13

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K13 M1 K5 M1 K19

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P19 PM1 P7 PM1 P13

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K13 M1 K9 M1 K19

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P19 PM1 P11 PM1 P13

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K13. Slip the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K19.

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: Knit across

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45-52: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Large

Right Hand

Cast on 35

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K20 M1 K1 M1 K14

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P14 PM1 P3 PM1 P20

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K20 M1 K5 M1 K14

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P14 PM1 P7 PM1 P20

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K20 M1 K9 M1 K14

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P14 PM1 P11 PM1 P20

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K20 M1 13 M1 K14

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: K20. Slip the next 15 stitches onto a stitch holder. K14.

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45: Knit across

Row 46: Purl across

Row 47-54: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 15 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Left Hand

Cast on 35

Rows 1-14: Knit across

Row 15: Knit across

Row 16: Purl across

Row 17: Knit across

Row 18: Purl across

Row 19: Knit across

Row 20: Purl across

Row 21: Knit across

Row 22: Purl across

Row 23: K14 M1 K1 M1 K20

Row 24: Purl across

Row 25: Knit across

Row 26: P20 PM1 P3 PM1 P14

Row 27: Knit across

Row 28: Purl across

Row 29: K14 M1 K5 M1 K20

Row 30: Purl across

Row 31: Knit across

Row 32: P20 PM1 P7 PM1 P14

Row 33: Knit across

Row 34: Purl across

Row 35: K14 M1 K9 M1 K20

Row 36: Purl across

Row 37: Knit across

Row 38: P20 PM1 P11 PM1 P14

Row 39: Knit across

Row 40: Purl across

Row 41: K14 M1 13 M1 K20

Row 42: Purl across

Row 43: K14. Slip the next 15 stitches onto a stitch holder. K20.

Row 44: Purl across

Row 45: Knit across

Row 46: Purl across

Row 47-54: Knit across

Cast off.

Making the Thumb

Pick up the 15 stitches on the stitch holder

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Row 4: Purl across

Cast off.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

The purple fingerless mitts have 60 rows total between the garter stitch cuff and the start of the thumb gusset (Row 15 – 22). I don’t think I would increase much further than that. The glove itself isn’t very stretchy and won’t fit further up the forearm. Too much bunching may also make the glove push its way further down and off the fingers.

I used some self-striping yarn to make these. Not all striping yarn is created equal. Some of them are designed to stripe for larger projects and don’t really work for smaller projects like this. Though with saying that, you could always cut the yarn and start a new colour where you choose. You will have more ends to deal with, but I have a post that shows you How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. ?? This link will take you right there.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

How to make one or M1 – Increase between stitches.

PM1- Make one (purl wise). Pick up the stitch as you did for M1, but purl the stitch as you regularly would. You can watch the video below.

And for those of you who are unsure of how to use a stitch holder, I made a quick little video that shows you how to do it without cutting the yarn. It’s a time saver for sure. No one likes working in ends if they can avoid it.

Posted on July 10, 2023January 9, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Snug Slip-On Slippers – Easy Slippers to Knit on Straight Needles – FREE Knitting Pattern

Snug Slip-on Knit Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

A great pattern for someone just learning to knit. If you know how to purl, knit, K2tog, M1 and cast on, you will be able to make these slippers. And if you don’t, don’t worry. I’ve included links to the videos that show you exactly how to do the stitches.

These minimal cuff, snug fitting slippers for adults fit folks up to a men’s size 14. Big enough to fit nearly everyone. Knit flat on a pair of straight needles, you don’t need any extra supplies to get these done. If you are an experienced knitter, you’ll be able to whip these up in no time.

Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any of the patterns that you make. All I ask that you respect the hard work that goes into designing and publishing a pattern and not violate my copyright.

If you would prefer a printable or ad free version of this pattern, you can get it in all the usual places including this website here – Snug Slip-On Slippers, through my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts, Amazon, Google Books, Patreon, Ravelry, or my newest place Creative Fabrica. If the links aren’t working, I’m in the process formatting and uploading to the retailer.

Become a Member

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Things You will Need

7oz (198 g) worsted weight yarn. Any standard ball of yarn you can get at craft or big box stores will be more than enough with yarn to spare.

Set of size 6 US (4 mm) single pointed knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew seams and work in ends.

Gauge

In garter stitch

2” (10 cm) – 9 stitches

2” (10 cm) – 18 rows

Sizes are written as such:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)

Abbreviations

If you need help with any of the stitches, you can go to my how-to video page. Here’s the link – Learn to Knit With Videos. A new page will open so you’re sure to not lose this one.

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

M1 – Make 1. Increase one stitch between stitches.

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Heel Flap

Cast on 4

K across for 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) rows.

* Next row: K1 M1. K across to last st. M1. K1.

Next 3 rows: K across * Repeat from * to * until there are 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) sts. Make sure to knit the 3 rows after the increase row. Cast on an additional 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts. 28 (29, 30, 33, 34) sts total.

Next row: K across. Cast on another 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts. 42 (44, 46, 50, 52) sts total.

Next row: K5 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K5.

♠ Next row: K across.

Next row: K5 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K5 ♠

Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times more for a total of 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) rows.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Form Toe

♦ Next row: K2tog. K across to the last 2 sts. K2tog.

Next row: K4 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K4.

Next row: Repeat row marked with ♦.

Next row: K3 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K3.

Next row: Repeat row marked with ♦.

Next row: K2 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K2.

Next row: Repeat row marked with ♦.

Next row: K1 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K1.

♣ Next row: K across.

Next row: P10 (11, 12, 13, 14) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P10 (11, 12, 13, 14). ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 7 (7, 7, 8, 9) times morefor a total of 16 (16, 16, 18, 20) rows.

End Toe

Next row: K0 (1, 0, 1, 0) K2tog to last st (if there is one). K0 (1, 0, 1, 0)

Next row: P5 (6, 6, 7, 7) K7 (7, 6, 7, 8 ) P5 (6, 6, 7, 7).

Next row: K1 (0, 0, 1, 1) K2 tog 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) times, K1, K2tog to last st (if there is one). K1 (0, 0, 0, 0).

Next row: P3 (3, 3, 4, 3) K4 P3 (3, 3, 4, 4).

Break yarn and draw through.

Flip up the triangle-ish shaped flap in the back of the slipper to form the heel. Sew along the sides of the heel flap to form the back of the slipper.

Make another slipper to match.

Hints and Tips

When ending the toe, due to the differing number of stitches for the various sizes, there may or may not be an extra stitch that needs working at the ends. I’ve marked the sizes accordingly.

The heel flap may not match up perfectly with the sides of the slipper but it will be close. Hold the garter edges at the top to make sure it lines up to form the cuff.

Leave a length of yarn when casting on and after you draw the yarn through when forming the toe. You can use it to sew the seams along one of the sides of the heel and along the top of the toe.

Posted on May 31, 2023January 10, 2024 by admin — 10 Comments

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children – FREE Knitting Pattern and How-to Video!

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - Knit on Straight Needles

After a bit of math and a little tweaking of the results, the child sizes of the FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern is finally available! (You can click that link if you need the adult sizes). Because these are made for little feet, they often don’t need much yarn. This makes them a great way to use up the smaller leftover bits from larger projects. Not to mention, these tend to sell like hotcakes at local farmers’ markets, craft fairs and consignment shops. The smaller pairs are “so cute” making for an easy sale and the return on the investment of your time is great! They’re quick to make and since the yarn has already been bought for a larger project, anything made from the leftovers, like these child shippers, is gravy, baby!

If you stumbled upon this post looking for a finished pair of slippers, I have them for sale in my Etsy shop. Prices vary depending on size. You can use this link – CUSTOM MADE Hand Knit Camo House Slippers – Slippers for Children – Kids Moccasin Booties – Slippers with a Cuff – Handcrafted House Shoes

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If you can’t help financially, I totally get it. Sharing on your social media is the next best thing.

And yes, you have my permission to sell or give away anything you make from my patterns. You’re just not allow to redistribute any of the patterns themselves in any form. Linking to and sharing is always welcome though! You can use those buttons ?? to do so easily.

Please note, this isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles, but no worries! I included photos and now a how-to video demonstrating how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

And if you are concerned with the number of ends you’ll need to weave in when done, I’ve also created a tutorial to help you with that too! It’s so much easier to work the ends in as you go, though there will be a few you’ll have to do (i.e. when you sew up the seam for the heel), but if you are interested in easing your work load, here’s the link showing you How to Weave in the Ends While Knitting. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page ?. There’s also a clickable card in the scrolling free pattern pics running across the top of this website if you need to find the page again.

If you don’t want to read it online and want to print it, this knitting pattern is available in all the usual places including this website – Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children, Ravelry, in my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts, a paperback on Amazon, and as an ePub that you can download on your Kindle. I’ll link to all of them as I get them completed and uploaded to the retailers. If a link isn’t working, it’s on its way. I need to reformat everything to get things on Amazon…

FYI I’m working at uploading my work to a distributor that also works with libraries. I’m publishing paperbacks of the patterns that you’ll be able to borrow! Some are available right now like the slipper and fingerless glove compilations I have. The single pattern paperbacks should be available as I get them uploaded and the distributor gets them out to the libraries. If they aren’t there now, you can always ask them to get it for you ?

The printable version of this pattern will also be in the member section and at Patreon also. Here are the links where you can get it.

Become a Member

Become a Patron on Patreon

Abbreviations

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. I really enjoying watching how the colours pool on the finished project. Little weird, I know… And In case you were thinking of trying self-striping yarn. Don’t. It looks terrible.

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart and Bernat worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Use this product to help prevent slippers from sliding on slick floors

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Child’s 1-2 (3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3, 4-5)

I’m using a colour code to denote the number of stitches for the various sizes. I hope this helps when making the sizes of slippers.

Size	Length
1-2	4 inches	10 cm
3-4	4.5 inches	11.4 cm
5-6	5 inches	12.5 cm
7-8	5 3/4 inches	14.5 cm
9-10	6 inches	15 cm
11-12	6 3/4 inches	17 cm
13-1	7 1/4 inches	18.5 cm
2-3	8 1/4 inches	21 cm
4-5	8 3/4 inches	22 cm

All measurements are approximate. Knitted slippers are very forgiving for size and foot shape.

To Begin

Cast on 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34)

Knit across for 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20, 20) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) to create the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 6 (6, 8, 8,10, 10, 10, 12, 12) toe flap stitches only!

Knit across for 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 30, 32, 36, 40) rows.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit these stitches. Pick up 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are now on ONE needle – 15 (17, 18, 20, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31) stitches

With another needle, knit the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the other needle unworked for now.

With another needle, pick up 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the next needle. There are now 15 (17, 18, 20, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31) stitches on this needle.

Knitting on 4 Needles — I used double pointed needles because they were handy and I don’t like the longer needles flopping and waggling about while I knit. Regular knitting needles work perfectly fine, too!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows.

There are 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the sizes 2-3 and 4-5.

Ridges for child slippers — The 2 ridges for small size 1-2 and 3-4.

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11) stitches of the toe flap.

Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need help with making the sole, picking up stitches along the side etc, you can watch this video. It starts exactly where you need it to.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. – 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

? Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. – 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches

Next Row: Knit across ?

Repeat from ? to ? in every stitch down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

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Making the Heel

If you need help with making the heel, you can watch the video. It starts where you need it to. As mentioned in the video, you’ll need to follow how to decrease with the pattern as written below.

If You Have 6 Stitches

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog 3 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

If You Have 8 Stitches

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog 4 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side. (Scroll up to the “If you have 6 stitches” section to see the photos if you need help).

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

If you have 10 or More Stitches

♀️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (Scroll up to the “If you have 6 stitches” section to see the photos if you need help).

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♀️ Repeat from ♀️ to ♀️ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Because smaller kid-lettes tend to have chunkier legs (aka – cankles ?), which is so gosh-darn cute btw, don’t go too crazy with the length.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is roughly 1 stitch every ridge.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. And yes, this is the third time I’m sharing it, but I made a photo tutorial showing how to do this. You can see it here – How to Work in the Ends as You Knit.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something. Especially on the smaller slippers that involve so many different stitch counts for the numerous sizes.

To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work! A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely ?

Posted on February 8, 2023January 14, 2024 by admin — 2 Comments

FREE Knitting Pattern – Winter Beanie Toque or Touque or Tuque with Vertical Stripes

Free Knitting Pattern - Toque, Touque, Beanie with vertical stripes

It wasn’t until this very moment in my life that I realized that naming a knitting pattern for winter headgear was going to be complicated. For those that don’t know about the internet and how information is found, writers have to write around keywords so web crawlers can find the information. I won’t bore you any further with that, but it does cause some, indecision, shall we say, when it comes to naming this knitting pattern. As it so happens, there are at least 3 ways to spell what I know as a touque. I’m Canadian. That’s what we call it and how I have always spelled it. My autocorrect on the other hand, is calling me a doofus and insists that it’s toque. In a state of mild rage I went to the internet to see what’s what in regard to this winter hat dilemma. Turns out there is a third option: tuque. What the actual “f”?!

I do realize that a lot of people generally refer to winter headwear as beanies. TBH that to me is a more tight fitting winter hat that conforms to the shape of your head and NEVER has a pom pom. These are the manly toques worn under hooded things like hoodies and winter jackets, especially when it gets really cold outside.

This pattern is different from most touque patterns I’ve seen and knit up over the years. I’m a little obsessed with short rows this last couple of months. So far I’ve made dishcloths and coasters and slippers using this technique. Instead of casting on all the stitches you’ll need to go around the head, this touque is knit from the forehead to the crown or top of the head. It’s still knit flat, with the shaping of the head being worked as you go. It also gives a neat vertical striping effect if you’re using self striping yarn. And just so you know, the smaller the stripes the narrower the stripes on the toque.

If you would prefer a printed copy of this pattern, there are a couple options for you. No, you don’t need to message me how you’re up in arms that you can’t print this webpage. You can keep scrolling down this page and read the pattern row by row on your phone or tablet in the comfort of your chair as you knit. A printed copy is a preference but not necessary to read and use this pattern.

If you would like a formatted, printable copy, you can purchase it from this website – Easy Knitting Pattern – Winter Beanie Toque/Touque/Tuque with Vertical Stripes, my Etsy shop, Ravelry, Google Books, Love Crafts and from Amazon for Kindle and as a paperback. Be sure you pick the correct country so shipping for your paperback is free if you are an Amazon Prime member.

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If you like the vertical stripes but have no self striping yarn, I’ve marked in the pattern where to change the colours. This makes this touque a great project to use up all those left over bits of yarn from other projects. I keep them too. I just can’t bring myself to throw out those bits. I always feel I’ll find a use for them.

But enough. You’re here to knit…

Things You Need:

Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). It may need to be more if you want a big, dense and fluffy pom pom.

Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles or whatever you need to acquire the correct gauge.

Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends

Pom pom maker – or you can use the two pieces of cardboard method. I’m sure there’s a video on YouTube showing how to do this.

Gauge

In stockinette

9 sts – 5 cm (2″)

12 rows – 5 cm (2”)

Sizes are for small, medium and large and are written as such sm (med, lg).

Small – 21 inches

Medium – 22.5 inches

Large – 24 inches

Sizing is always general for knitting as it has a fair amount of stretch to it and tends to contract and expand as needed.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Starting the Toque, Touque, Tuque, Beanie….Sigh I give up SMH

Cast on 39 (45, 48)

Row 1: P9 (12, 12) K30 (33, 36)

Row 2: P30 (33, 36) K9 (12, 12)

♥ Row 3: K37 (43, 46) (leave last 2 sts unworked. Turn).

leave 2 stitches unworked — Leave last 2 stitches unworked

Row 4: P28 (31, 34) K9 (12, 12)

Row 5: P9 (12, 12) K27 (30, 33) (leave last 3 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 6: P27 (30, 33) K9 (12, 12)

Row 7: K35 (41, 44) (leave last 4 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 8: P26 (29, 32) K9 (12, 12)

Row 9: P9 (12, 12) K25 (28, 31) (leave last 5 sts unworked. Turn). ** Break yarn and change colour here if desired.

Row 10: P25 (28, 31) K9 (12, 12)

Row 11: K35 (41, 44) (leave last 4 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 12: P26 (29, 32) K9 (12, 12)

Row 13: P9 (12, 12) K27 (30, 33) (leave last 3 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 14: P27 (30, 33) K9 (12, 12)

Row 15: K37 (43, 46) (leave last 2 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 16: P28 (31, 34) K9 (12, 12)

Row 17: P9 (12, 12) K30 (33, 36) **Break yarn and change colour here if desired.

(No need to colour change if this is the last of your repeats. Stop here and cast off on the wrong side if all repeats are complete.)

Row 18: P30 (33, 36) K9 (12, 12) ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 6 times more for a total of 7 times.

You’ll have 7 lines dividing the sections when you look at the toque from the top.

*The seven sections. Stitches around the top hole are* ***NOT*** *drawn together.*

Sew up the seams, draw the top center stitches together. You don’t need to add a pom pom, but I think it looks a lot better with one.

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Hints and Tips

Any type of yarn will work for this project. It doesn’t have to be striped just because that’s how I did it. A solid colour would look just as good. Another option it to use the ombre yarns that gently shift from one colour to another. It’s nice to be able to make a beanie that has the colour transition go up and down instead of the usual horizontal way.

Colour changes have to be done in groups of 2 or 7 colours if you want to maintain the proper sequence. For example: black, white, black white, black white, etc. for 2 colours. If you want 7 different colours it would have to be something like: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, black and then repeat those colours again in that order. Of course, it you’re using up leftover yarn and aren’t repeating colours, it doesn’t matter.

Another way to think of it…there are 14 possible colour sections to this winter hat. Any number that fits equally into 14 can be repeated in sequence around the hat.

When making colour changes, you can work in the ends as you go for the first colour change. I show how to do that here – How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can also work them in with the tapestry needle when done.

The second colour change occurs at the top of the hat. I tie and knot the ends of the yarn together as I change colour. When done, I thread them up and through the pom pom and cut off the dangly bits so they blend in with it. The knots are above the crown of the head and don’t actually touch the scalp. It’s an easy, time saving short cut.

Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell, give away or keep any of the physical items you make. You are NOT permitted to reproduced this pattern in any way, including but not limited to, all digital or physical copies.

Posted on January 25, 2023April 17, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

FREE Knitting Pattern – Minimalist Round Toe Slippers

I’ve been looking to simplify my Adult Moccasin Slippers for some time now. I wanted to design a minimalist style slippers that were knit on a single set of knitting needles, without the sewing of seams (which I try to avoid at all costs, btw). I also wanted to keep any tricky techniques to a minimum. With this pattern, there are no additional sets of needles required, and no knitting in the round on double pointed needles (DPN) to make the edging.

And because there is a bit of starting and stopping when making the sections, this leaves a number of ends to sew in. I strongly recommend working in your ends while you knit. If you don’t know how to do that, you can check out How to Work in the Ends While Knitting on my website. For a quick how to: hold the yarn on the back of your work (the wrong side) and catch the yarn every other stitch. It totally works and in all the slippers I’ve made over the years, I’ve never had a single complaint about it coming undone.

Please note that in some of the photos showing parts of the slipper, I used double pointed needles. These needles are NOT necessary. I just prefer to use shorter needles when knitting narrow pieces. Regular single pointed needles work just as well.

If you would prefer to print the pattern or have it available offline, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee. You can buy it from this website here – Minimalist Round Toe Knitted Slippers Pattern, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. I also have the ebook available on Google Books and both Kindle and the paperback version on Amazon. Make sure you go to your country if ordering from Amazon.

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Things You Need

Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Worsted weight yarn – any standard ball of yarn will suffice. (I’m a fan of Red Heart and Bernat worsted weight as it is easy to find and economical.)

Tapestry needle – to work in the ends.

Abbreviations

K – knit

K2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Gauge

Make sure you match the gauge or sizing will be off.

18 stitches = 4 inches

24 rows = 4 inches

in stockinette

Sizes are written as such:

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Starting the Quarter Circle and Side

Cast on 12 (13, 14, 15)

☺ Row 1 – 2: Knit across.

Row 3: K11 (12, 13, 14) Turn work. Leave last stitch unworked.

Row 4: K11 (12, 13, 14)

Row 5: K10 (11, 12, 13) Turn work. Leave last 2 stitches unworked.

Row 6: K10 (11, 12, 13)

Row 7: K9 (10, 11, 12) Turn work. Leave last 3 stitches unworked.

Row 8: K9 (10, 11, 12)

Row 9: K8 (9, 10, 11) Turn work. Leave last 4 stitches unworked.

Row 10: K8 (9, 10, 11)

Row 11: K7 (8, 9, 10) Turn work. Leave last 5 stitches unworked.

Row 12: K7 (8, 9, 10)

Row 13: K6 (7, 8, 9) Turn work. Leave last 6 stitches unworked.

Row 14: K6 (7, 8, 9)

Row 15: K5 (6, 7, 8) Turn work. Leave last 7 stitches unworked.

Row 16: K5 (6, 7, 8)

Row 17: K4 (5, 6, 7) Turn work. Leave last 8 stitches unworked.

Row 18: K4 (5, 6, 7)

Stop here for women’s size 6-7 and men’s size 5-6. Eighth of a circle completed. Go to instructions marked with ۞

Row 19: K0 (4, 5, 6) Turn work. Leave last 9 stitches unworked.

Row 20: K0 (4, 5, 6)

Stop here for women’s size 8-9 and men’s size 7-8. Eighth of a circle completed. Go to instructions marked with ۞

Row 21: K0 (0, 4, 5) Turn work. Leave last 10 stitches unworked.

Row 22: K0 (0, 4, 5)

Stop here for women’s size 10-11 and men’s size 9-10. Eighth of a circle completed. Go to instructions marked with ۞

Row 23: K0 (0, 0, 4) Turn work. Leave last 10 stitches unworked.

Row 24: K0 (0, 0, 4) ☺

Stop here for men’s size 11-12. Eighth of a circle completed.

۞ Come here when indicated to stop for the size you are making.

Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once to make another eighth of a circle.

*First 1/8*^th of a circle looks like this.

*The second 1/8*^th looks like this. *You now have 1/4*^th of a circle.

When you have made a quarter circle (1/8 + 1/8 = 1/4), start knitting rows as follows:

Next row: Knit across for 40 (42, 46, 50) rows total.

*Starting the back and forth rows.* *What it looks like finished is below.*

Cast off.

With the RIGHT side of your work facing you, pick up 12 (13, 14, 15) sts along the original cast on row.

Repeat from ☺ to ☺ twice.

Knit across for 40 (42, 46, 50) rows total.

Cast off.

Edging (Done before sole)

I know it’s a little unconventional to add an edging at this point. This is usually something you do as a last step. But, to keep this slipper pattern as simple as possible, and to not need any other knitting needles or need to know how to knit in the round, we’ll make the edging now. You can use a complimentary colour or the same colour that you are already using. The choice is yours.

With the RIGHT side of your work facing you, pick up 20 (21, 23, 25) sts along the edge, 7 sts over the curve of the toe and 20 (21, 23, 25) sts along the other edge.

*If you spread the rows apart a bit you can see where to pick up the stitch.*

It doesn’t have to be perfect. As long as the 7 stitches are picked up evenly in this space it’s ok.

Knit 2 (4, 4, 4) rows over the picked up stitches. Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.

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Making the Sole

With the RIGHT side of your work facing you, find the middle seam of the toe. This is the line where you picked up the stitches the first time after making the first quarter section and side strip. Count over 5 (6, 6, 6) ridges. Pick up 11 (13, 13, 13) sts to start the sole. The middle stitch (the 6^th (7^th, 7^th, 7^th stitch) should be picked up in the middle seam.

*Stitches picked up.* *This is the smallest size so there are only 11 stitches.*

Next row: Knit across.

♥ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and pick up a stitch in the ridges by the toe flap. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the ridges by the point of your needle. You now have 11 (13, 13, 13) stitches.

*Keep picking up a stitch on each side down the entire length to form the sole.*

Next row: Knit across. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ down the length of the slipper until there are no ridges left.

*As you pick up stitches along the side, the sole will automatically curve around the toe like this.*

*Keep working your way down the length of the slipper.*

Forming the Heel

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you if the photos aren’t enough.

◘ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the cast off stitch closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side.

Next row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the next cast off stitch. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side.

Next row: Knit across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ until 7 stitches remain.

Next row: K2tog, Knit 3 stitches together, K2tog.

Next row: Knit the 3 stitches together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

heels complete — *Heels sewn and complete.*

Yes, the toe does look a little boxy when they’re not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

If you are up in arms about sewing in the ends when you are done, there is away to avoid it. You can work in the ends on the back side of your work as you are knitting. Not sure how to do that? I have a photo tutorial on my website that will show you how – How to Work in the Ends While Knitting

You can add rows to the edging to make more of a cuff if you like. Or you could also do a K1 P1 ribbing over the stitches. I didn’t like how the slipper fit or looked when it was longer. That’s why I didn’t add any photos of it.

If you have picked up a different number of stitches on each side when making the sole, it’s not a big deal as long as it’s only a row or two. I suggest picking up 2 stitches in one row, rather than skipping a row. It’s less noticeable.

I designed this pattern to have a very minimalist feel to it. Of course, not everyone is into function only wearables. If you want to add pompoms, fancy large buttons or some other decorations, have at it! Be creative and add your personal touch to the design.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on January 16, 2023January 10, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

One Piece Knitted Dishcloth and Coasters – FREE Knitting Pattern for Beginners

Easy knitting pattern for beginners - coaster dishcloth

This knitting pattern is very versatile and can be made to be any size of square. For myself, I like it as a dishcloth. But when I started to knit up samples for the photos I realized that this design could transfer into any thing that can be square. Regardless of the size, because of the method of making it, it will always be square regardless of how many, or few, stitches are cast on at the outset.

And no need to worry about picking up stitches or any other difficult techniques. If you can knit and cast on and cast off, you can make this. It’s not complicated at all.

For myself, I found that 32 stitches made for the perfect size dishcloth and used a little less than one of the smaller balls of cotton yarn. I like mine to be bigger but not unmanageably so. I also found that making a coaster or mini face scrubber, took about 18 stitches. These are just approximate cast on stitch counts. I found that there is some variation in the worsted weight (medium 4) yarn thickness. You may need to add 2 or 3 more cast on stitches if it’s on the thinner side.

I’ve written the pattern to make a dishcloth so started with 32 stitches cast on. A quick tip, if you use a size smaller needle (4 mm or US 6) to cast on, then switch back to the 5 mm (US 8) the starting edge looks a bit more finished and tight.

Another plus about this pattern, I finally designed something that really highlights variegated yarn. I have a great appreciation for the colour changing yarns that are available (I do not have similar feelings towards self striping yarn, but that’s a rant for another time). I found that the variegated yarn did really well with smaller size squares, though I like the pooling of colours when making the larger sized dishcloths as well.

And to sooth my quest for sameness, these washcloths are the same on both sides!! Both sides look pretty much the same. I know in the scheme of things this matters very little, but it somehow screams “correct” to me. I’m weird. I know.

If you’re looking for an ad free pattern you can download to your computer, tablet or phone you can get that here – this website at One Piece Knitted Dishcloth and Coasters – Great Knitting Pattern for Beginners, LoveCrafts, my Etsy shop or Ravelry for a small fee. It is also available on Amazon Kindle and as a paperback.

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And, yes. I know this pattern becomes very obvious in how to make it once you start knitting. I wrote it out in full regardless, as some people (the few but very vocal) have a tendency to contact me if even the most obvious thing is not mentioned in my patterns. I’m trying to avoid these critical emails, just so you know.

It’s so obvious that you may be able to knit this without the pattern at all. That’s why I made the video. I’m sure some of the more experienced knitters out there will watch the first couple minutes of the video below and be like, “Ya. I got this.”

Things You Need

 Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

1 3/4 oz (42g) ball of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn

Large sewing needle (for working in the ends)

Gauge isn’t really important for this project as sizing is approximate.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

st – stitch

That’s it! This is a VERY simple pattern.

The Pattern

Cast on 32 (You will always have 32 stitches on your needle when the right side is facing you)

Row 1 – 2: Knit across

Row 3: K31. Leave the last stitch unworked. Turn.

Row 4: K31.

Row 5: K30. Leave the last 2 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 6: K30.

Row 7: K29. Leave the last 3 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 8: K29.

Row 9: K28. Leave the last 4 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 10: K28.

Row 11: K27. Leave the last 5 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 12: K27.

Row 13: K26. Leave the last 6 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 14: K26.

Row 15: K25. Leave the last 7 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 16: K25.

Row 17: K24. Leave the last 8 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 18: K24.

Row 19: K23. Leave the last 9 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 20: K23.

Row 21: K22. Leave the last 10 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 22: K22.

Row 23: K21. Leave the last 11 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 24: K21.

Row 25: K20. Leave the last 12 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 26: K20.

Row 27: K19. Leave the last 13 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 28: K19.

Row 29: K18. Leave the last 14 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 30: K18.

Row 31: K17. Leave the last 15 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 32: K17.

Row 33: K16. Leave the last 16 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 34: K16.

Row 35: K15. Leave the last 17 stitches unworked. Turn.

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Row 36: K15.

Row 37: K14. Leave the last 18 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 38: K14.

Row 39: K13. Leave the last 19 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 40: K13.

Row 41: K12. Leave the last 20 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 42: K12.

Row 43: K11. Leave the last 21 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 44: K11.

Row 45: K10. Leave the last 22 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 46: K10.

Row 47: K9. Leave the last 23 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 53: K6. Leave the last 26 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 48: K9.

Row 49: K8. Leave the last 24 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 50: K8.

Row 51: K7. Leave the last 25 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 52: K7.

Row 54: K6.

Row 55: K5. Leave the last 27 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 56: K5.

Row 57: K4. Leave the last 28 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 58: K4.

Row 59: K3. Leave the last 29 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 60: K3.

Row 61: K2. Leave the last 30 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 62: K2.

Row 63: K1. Leave the last 31 stitches unworked. Turn.

Halfway Point

If you would like the other half of your square to use a different colour like shown above, attach it now.

Row 64: K1.

Row 65: K2. Leave the last 30 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 66: K2.

Row 67: K3. Leave the last 29 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 68: K3.

Row 69: K4. Leave the last 28 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 70: K4.

Row 71: K5. Leave the last 27 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 72: K5.

Row 73: K6. Leave the last 26 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 74: K6.

Row 75: K7. Leave the last 25 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 76: K7.

Row 77: K8. Leave the last 24 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 78: K8.

Row 79: K9. Leave the last 23 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 80: K9.

Row 81: K10. Leave the last 22 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 82: K10.

Row 83: K11. Leave the last 21 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 84: K11.

Row 85: K12. Leave the last 20 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 86: K12.

Row 87: K13. Leave the last 19 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 88: K13.

Row 89: K14. Leave the last 18 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 90: K14.

Row 91: K15. Leave the last 17 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 92: K15.

Row 93: K16. Leave the last 16 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 94: K16.

Row 95: K17. Leave the last 15 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 96: K17.

Row 97: K18. Leave the last 14 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 98: K18.

Row 99: K19. Leave the last 13 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 100: K19.

Row 101: K20. Leave the last 12 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 102: K20.

Row 103: K21. Leave the last 11 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 104: K21.

Row 105: K22. Leave the last 10 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 106: K22.

Row 107: K23. Leave the last 9 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 108: K23.

Row 109: K24. Leave the last 8 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 110: K24.

Row 111: K25. Leave the last 7 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 112: K25.

Row 113: K26. Leave the last 6 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 114: K26.

Row 115: K27. Leave the last 5 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 116: K27.

Row 117: K28. Leave the last 4 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 118: K28.

Row 119: K29. Leave the last 3 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 120: K29.

Row 121: K30. Leave the last 2 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 122: K30.

Row 123: K31. Leave the last stitch unworked. Turn.

Row 124: K31.

Row 125: K32.

Cast off on the WRONG side.

Hints and Tips

If you would like to make smaller squares for coasters or pot scrubbers, cast on fewer stitches. The basic idea for the pattern is to always leave one less stitch done every other row. Once you’re down to one stitch, knit one extra stitch every other row.

I know I mentioned this in the intro but it deserves repeating. If you use a size smaller needle (4 mm or US 6) to cast on, then switch back to the 5 mm (US 8) the starting edge looks a bit more finished and tight.

You don’t have to use cotton yarn if you’re going to make coasters. An acrylic or wool blend would also work well. And you can also use up some of your yarn stash this way too. Great little things to sell at a garage sale, or craft fair and recoup a little of the money already spent on the yarn.

Use these squares for anything! As long as your yarn is the same thickness and type, all acrylic let’s say, you could easily use up your last little yarn bits to make an afghan or throw blanket. I don’t quilt but I know that triangles and squares make up a good portion of quilt designs. Knitting squares that are two colours along the diagonal put together the solid coloured squares could make some very interesting patterns.

These also make good trivets or pot holders for taking things out of the oven, but only if… they are NOT wet and are made of 100% cotton. Any acrylic or polyester blend will melt to the pot and possible fingers, counter tops or tables. And ain’t nobody got time for that!!

Like all my work, you are permitted to sell, give away or keep whatever physical items you make using this pattern. You do NOT have permission to copy or redistribute this pattern (or any of my patterns) in any form either digitally or physically. That includes printed copies of the pattern either as photos or any file format.

Posted on September 7, 2022January 10, 2024 by admin — 10 Comments

Easy to Knit Rolled Cuff Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Easy to Knit One Piece Rolled Cuff Slippers - free knitting pattern

I’ve written a number of slipper patterns over the years with a couple of goals in mind, two goals to be specific. The first is to never have any seams to sew. This pattern didn’t meet this requirement. I offer a heartfelt apology for this.

The other goal is to make them as easy as possible so new knitters or those with not as much experience, can knit something that gives a great final product. This pattern was written specifically to avoid any difficult techniques, specifically, picking up stitches. That is why this pattern is done in one piece; starting at the heel and working towards the toe.

The cuff is made as you knit the piece. Because of the stitches used, it automatically rolls back up on itself giving a nice finished edge without adding any additional stitches or work.

I also made a longer cuffed version of this pattern. It fits more like a bootie. You can use this link to check out that slipper design – Easy to Knit – Long Cuffed Slippers. There is also a thicker version of this slipper using 2 strands of yarn. It’s quicker to make and extra thick – Easy to Knit Beginner Slipper Pattern – Knit Flat with Bulky Yarn on Straight Needles – FREE Knitting Pattern

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

If you would like to avoid the ads on this page or would like to print the pattern, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee from this website at Easy to Knit Rolled Cuff Slippers , through my Etsy shop or on Ravelry.

Become a Member

Things You Need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 5 mm (US 8 ) single pointed needles

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

Gauge(in stockinette)

18 stitches = 4 inches

24 rows = 4 inches

Sizes are written as such:

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
Men’s 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13)

Heel Flap

Cast on 2

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Increase in each stitch. (4 sts)

Row 3 – 4 : Knit across.

Row 5: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (6 sts)

Row 6 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (8 sts)

Row 9 – 10: Knit across.

Row 11: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (10 sts)

Row 12 – 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (12 sts)

Row 15 – 16: Knit across.

PLEASE NOTE:

The following rows are for sizes Women’s 10, 11 and 12 and Men’s sizes 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 ONLY:

Next row: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch (14 sts)

Next 2 rows: Knit across.

Continue the pattern for all sizes.

Next row: Cast on 16 stitches. (Yes, you already have 12 (12, 14, 14, 14) stitches on your needle. After casting on, you’ll have 28 (28, 30, 30, 30) sts on your needle). The following is worked over the stitches you just cast on and the stitches from the heel. P4 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). As you worked those stitches, your work was transferred onto the other needle. Cast on another 16 sts onto this needle. (You now have 44 (44, 46, 46, 46 sts) on your needle)

♥ Next row: Knit across.

Next row: P4 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 times more. P4. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) times more for 24, (26, 28, 30, 32) rows total.

Shaping Toe

Next row: K2tog K to the last 2 sts K2tog. (42 (42, 44, 44, 44) sts)

Next row: P3 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P3.

Next row: K2tog K to the last 2 sts K2tog. (40 (40, 42, 42, 42) sts)

Next row: P2 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P2.

☺ Next row: Knit across.

Next row: P2 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P2. ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times more for 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) rows total.

End Toe

Next row: K2tog 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) times. K1 K2tog to last 3 sts. K1 K2tog.

Next row: P1 K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * once P1 K6 (6, 7, 7, 7) *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 time more. P1.

Next row: K1 K2tog 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) times. K1 (1, 0, 0, 0) times. K2tog until last st. K1

Next row: P1 K1 P3 K3 P4.

Break yarn and pull through. Pull tight to draw loops together.

Sew seam on top of toe and the heel flap to the sides of the slipper (the 16 stitches you cast on earlier) and join the edges of the cuff together in the back above the flap.

Hints and Tips

Sew the seam on the top of the toe up to where you K2tog when shaping the toe. If you don’t like what the join looks like, you can always make a pom pom to cover it.

Leave a longer length of yarn when you first start the slipper. You can use this piece to sew one of the seams along the heel flap. When you end the slipper, leave that yarn length longer too. You can use the length to sew the toe seam.

The sizing of these slippers is very forgiving. The garter stitch used throughout helps the slipper to stretch both width and length wise. If your gauge is off by a row or a stitch, you should be able to get the size of slipper you want.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

The pattern allows you to make, sell or give away any of the slippers that you make. You are NOT permitted to redistribute this pattern in any way. The purchase the PDF is for your PERSONAL USE ONLY! Sharing copies of my patterns robs me of what I financially gain from my hard work and creativity that goes into designing my patterns. Please respect my copyright.

Posted on August 26, 2022January 15, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Eight Slipper Styles to Knit

Well, I’m back at it again. Updating my old patterns with new photos and the occasional typo fix. I’m also very pleased to say that I have had enough of rehashing the old and am nearly done. Just a couple more to go.

So like always I’ve made this compilation of my original slipper patterns available as a PDF, Kindle and physical book. The book is available only through Amazon at this point. Like my other compilations, please pick the country you’re from so if you are an Amazon Prime member, you’ll get the shipping for free.

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

The patterns themselves are still all free to read on the website (the links are listed further down this post). You won’t be able to print them from the site. I lose ad revenue if you do… Betchya didn’t even think of that before ?. I’ve kept the cost for a printable PDF very low so it’s definitely within everyone’s budget. It’s less than a ball of yarn! You can purchase the PDF through this website here – Eight Slipper Styles to Knit or you can get it through my Etsy shop here – Eight Slipper Styles to Knit – Updated and Revised.

For those comfortable with reading patterns online, clicking any of the links below will take you right to it.

Easy to Knit Bow Slippers

Easy to Knit Slippers

Two Slippers with One Pattern

How to Knit Children’s Slippers

How to Knit Adult Slippers

How to Knit Slippers Just Like Granny Made

Adult Booties

How to Knit Sheep Slippers

And to beat any Karen’s to the punch…if you’re scrolling past everything here to leave a nasty comment that I’m lying about free patterns. Or maybe you feel you need some passive/aggressive, poor you bullish!t that it’s too hard to close an ad to follow a link, please move on and don’t use my patterns. I don’t want my good in the world tarnished by someone as entitled as yourself. And also, learn how to use the internet before you start your self absorbed, unfounded complaints.

Posted on August 8, 2022January 10, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

FREE Knitting Pattern – How to Knit Texting Mittens

How to Knit Texting Mitts - Knitting Pattern

Improve your texting in cold climates with these thumbless mittens. More than just a pair of fingerless gloves, these keep your hands warm and only expose your thumbs when needed. The thumb pocket is sewn on and the flap is secured at the base of the palm with Velcro* for easy access. The flap hangs in the back out of the way to enable your texting abilities. Plan on using your thumbs for a while? Then simply tuck the flap into the thumb pocket.

The sizes are each written separately as each size is a bit different in row and stitch counts. Scroll down this post to the size you would like to make. Medium fits the average lady’s hand, large for men, and small for pre-teens.

Don’t forget to share this post!

Don’t want to come back here to read the pattern? You can download the pattern to your tablet, phone or computer from my website at Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts. You can also get it from other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrafts. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to the site yet. It will be ASAP.

If you enjoy this and my other free knitting and crochet patterns, please Help Support My Work. It doesn’t have to be financial, though that’s always appreciated. Every like, share and follow also helps me keep this website running.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my

Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 4.5 mm double pointed needles

Stitch holder

Hook and loop fastener (AKA – Velcro)

Glue

Gauge

10 stitches = 2 inches

13 rows = 2 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts.. There should be 31 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 35 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 31 sts until work measures approximately 3.5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K10 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K6, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K5, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (if you scroll to the end of the post there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Working over the 3 sts you just cast on, K3. Leave these 3 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Transfer these 3 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 25: Knit

Round 28: K2tog, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2tog, K1 .

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog four times

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

More of my stuff on Etsy

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 35 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 38 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 35 sts until work measures approximately 4 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K12 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K8, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K7, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 16 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 29: Knit

Round 30: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K2, P2 (Creates knit 2 purl 2 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.

Round 38 – 39: Knit

Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 39 sts divided on the three needles.

Round 41 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 39 sts until work measures approximately 5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.

Form Fingertips

Next round: K1, k2tog, K14 K2tog, K2, K2tog, K13, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K12, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K11, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Next round: K1, K2tog, K10, K2 tog, K2, K2tog, K9, K2tog, K1.

Next two rounds: Knit

Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Finishing the Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 8: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Thumb Flap

Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.

Cast on 3 sts.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Purl

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: K1, pick up a st, K5, pick up a st, K1. (9 sts)

Row 16: Purl

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: Purl

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Purl

Row 21: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 9 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.

With the right side of your work facing you:

Round 22 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 4 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.

Round 40: Knit

Round 41: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K1, K2tog, K1

Draw loops together and sew in the ends.If you are unfamiliar with how to end the fingertips on mittens (this works for socks as well), I’ve added a picture tutorial at the end of another pattern. Instead of me adding all the photos and instructions again, here’s the link to learn how –
How to Graft Fingertips.

Make another mitten to match.

Attaching the Thumb Flap

With the yarn left from where you continued the thumb, attach the thumb flap to the mitten. Make sure that you attach the thumb flap to the back side of the left and right mittens accordingly. Easiest way is to lay the mitts flat with the thumbs pointing in opposite directions.

Attaching the Velcro

Cut a small piece of Velcro that will fit on the base of the thumb flap. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the THUMB FLAP first. Glue it in place.

Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the thumb flap forward in the toasty warm thumb position. With the Velcro still together, place the Velcro where the bottom of the flap touches the palm of the mitten. Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.Like grafting the fingertips, I’ve also shown how to pick up a stitch without leaving a hole. If you’d like to see how it’s done, here’s the link to learn how – How to Pick up a Stitch.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

Make sure when attaching the Velcro to the thumb flap, that the fuzzy half of the Velcro is what you use for the flap. In other words, which ever side feels less rough. The other pokey side should go on the palm of the mitt. That way the Velcro won’t stick to the inside of the thumb flap when folded back into itself.

When picking up stitches to finish the thumb on the mitt, leave a long piece of yarn to sew on the thumb flap. This saves on the number of ends to sew in when you’re done.

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.

*Velcro is a registered trademark.

Posted on July 29, 2019August 30, 2020 by admin — Leave a comment

Celtic Cable Fingerless Gloves Pattern

Inspired by the series Outlander, these gorgeous fingerless gloves are absolutely lovely! Like the designer Louise Bollanos, I too enjoy of the show and have noticed the great hand knit items that Claire wears throughout the series. The Hobbit was also pretty awesome and had knitters right onset knitting stuff. For real. It was in the extended version behind the scenes if you’d like to see for yourself. But I digress…

These fingerless gloves are knit in the round on double point needles (dpn) and the use of a cable needle. If you are comfortable with both techniques, then this pattern should be no problem for you to make.

You’ll need to scroll quite a ways down the page ?? Celtic Cable Fingerless Gloves Pattern ?? to get to the pattern, but it’s there. If you would prefer an ad free version, you can purchase, download and print the knitting pattern from her online shop here – Celtic Cable Fingerless Gloves Knitting Pattern PDF

Posted on July 24, 2019August 30, 2020 by admin — Leave a comment

Lace Knit shawl by Valentinasknits

Valentina shares step by step instructions for knitting this beautiful lace knit shawl. It would look gorgeous made with all of the self-striping yarns that are out there. The triangular shawl shape, with a diamond repeat pattern features a border edge with a series of romantic floral bouquet motifs.

Read the pattern online here: Lace Knit shawl by Valentinasknits

Posted on July 24, 2019August 30, 2020 by admin — Leave a comment

Excellent Blogs You Should Read

As a blogger and pattern creator myself, I always have a soft spot for my fellow online posters of great patterns. I think there is something to be said for folks that go out of their way to design a pattern, a ton of work btw, and then give it away for free! So here is my latest shoutout to those I’ve found on the “intertubes” that deserve a a few extra page visits, views, likes and shares thrown their way.

Watermelon Chunky Slippers

These are some super cute slippers! Designed to fit both adults and children, you can read this pattern in full on the blog here. And did I mention, it’s free ?

Kreisel Fingerless Gloves

I’ve always been a fan of crocheted mittens of any style, but I REALLY like the looks of these. I’m a fan of both the design and the colour. Bit of a sucker for the cooler shades… You can read the pattern on the blog here.

Annabelle by DROPS Design

I’m always so impressed by the number of patterns available at this site and love these crocheted slippers! You can read the pattern for this lovely design here.

Ombre Basket Pattern

I actually like this purse/basket so much that I’m going to share this one again. I did once with another website I was running, but that’s a story for another day. The basket is going to turn out based entirely on the yarn colour selections. I know that the yarn cakes are really popular right now but the colour changes may not be short enough to get this fabulous colour transition. But enough on my views, get to making this now! Read the pattern here.

This is a great project for anyone! If you’re learning how to crochet or even if you’re an experienced crocheter (is that even a word) you’ll find the final product super useful. I have one sitting by my kitchen sink right now. And it was from a fellow crocheter (still not sure if that’s a word ?). I’m including the how to video and the link where you can read the pattern online – The Best Kitchen Scrubbie

Posted on July 24, 2019August 30, 2020 by admin — Leave a comment

Stuff for Kids – FREE Knitting Patterns

Sometimes it’s nice to have smaller projects that use up our stash ends. Sometimes we want to give something to that favourite child in our lives. Maybe we are sill looking for an excuse to make something a little more on the fun and whimsical side. Whatever the reason, knitting patterns designed for children seem to involve all those factors. Here’s a quick sampling of the few things I’ve found lurking about on the web.

Almost Lost Washcloth

So not necessarily a kid thing, it’s a bit more on the whimsical side by not being your basic square washcloth. It looks like tit’s knitted in the round but in reality, it’s knitted flat on 2 needles. The swooping effect is created by leaving a few stitches on the needle. Very ingenious. Click here to read the pattern online.

Stacking Stars

Remember the stacking rings that children played with years ago? MThat was the first thing I thought of when I saw this. The star motif for the pattern is the same regardless of the size. What creates the difference in the sizes of the star is how many repeats you do. Available as a download only, You can get the pattern through Ravelry here – Stacking Stars

Snowman Hat Knitting Pattern

Awesomely super cute! Knit up this toque (I’m Canadian, that’s what we call these here ?) that’s sure to make all the preschoolers a little envious. You can read the pattern in full online here. There is also a PDF download but there is a fee required for that. The links to the downloads are on the website.

Bear With Me Dishcloth

Available as a PDF download from KnitPicks, (tons of patterns there btw), I added this primarily because of the awwwwwww factor. You can get the pattern here – Bear Washcloth

Knitted Pencil Case

I didn’t know that a knitted pencil case was a thing until I found this. I have to admit, I like it. Available as a download only, you can find it on Ravelry here – The Toby Case

Posted on July 24, 2019August 30, 2020 by admin — Leave a comment

Free Knitting Patterns that Can Make a Difference – Knitting for Charity

Knitting patterns that either help raise awareness for a cause or charity or are to give to someone comfort in their time of need. If you can’t directly help the organization that provides the pattern, maybe you can start a similar group to help those that live in your community. Let this page be an inspiration to you.

Tote for a Cause

Knit up this tote bag to help raise cancer awareness. This would make a great gift for someone as a show of support. Get the pattern here – Tote for a Cause

Knitted Knockers

These “knockers” are useful for ladies as a prosthetic after a mastectomy. These are especially useful if the surgery is recent and the patient is tender. Just about every country out there has a chapter of this group. A little research will certainly turn up something near you. The link provided here offers complete step-by-step videos and has both crocheted and knitted versions of the patterns to download for free. Download the pattern – Knitted Knockers

Baby Angel Pocket or Blanket

These are for babies that have been lost due to miscarriage, stillbirth and other complications. There is both a crocheted and knitted version of this pattern. Click here to get the pattern – Baby Angel Pocket or Blanket Why you may want to make these for your local hospital (as taken from the page linked to this entry) :

The babies are treated with dignity and respect just as a live baby would be wrapped up when it is born.
The blankets and angel pockets help hospital staff present babies to their family in a respectful way.
The angel pockets allow parents to ‘hold’ their baby without touching their skin, which is very fragile and deteriorates quite quickly.
A dead baby’s body starts to seep fluids shortly after death and the blankets help to ‘soak up’ some of that fluid.
Some parents want to keep the blankets they have bought for their baby so choose to bury or cremate them in the donated blanket.
The blankets may be kept as a keepsake. When there is very little to show for a baby, a pretty angel pocket or blanket will often be treasured forever.

Knitting Pattern: Five Finger Puppets

It can get pretty dull for anyone who’s stuck in a hospital for any length of time. It’s even harder if you’re a young child. Why not whip up these cute inner puppets. You probably have enough leftovers in your stash to make them right now (I know I do). Read the pattern in full here – Five Finger Puppets

Pink Ribbon Hat

Another knitting pattern to help raise awareness of breast cancer and show your support for those who’s lives it touches. Read the pattern online here – Pink Ribbon Hat

Hello Preemie Free Baby Hat Knitting Pattern

These are perfect for the tiny little newborns in the hospital. They look super cute and help keep these new additions warm. Just about every hospital with babies can use these. Get the pattern here – Hello Preemie Free Baby Hat

Posted on July 24, 2019August 30, 2020 by admin — Leave a comment

Socks, Slippers and More!!

I do like a nice pair of slippers; I certainly do design a lot. But for some reason, maybe because all my spawn are older, I don’t get around to making children’s sizes very often. I actually don’t get around to designing much of anything for kids. Maybe I should… or better yet, I’ll let all the other good people out there design for kids and I’ll share their patterns on my website!

So with that, here is this week’s instalment of some fun, cute and quick to make knitting patterns for children I thought may tickle your fancy. And because I didn’t want anyone to feel left out, there is a treat for you adults in here too. Who doesn’t love Bunny Slippers ??

Knit Animal Slippers for Children

This is a basic knitted slipper pattern for kids with instructions on how to make cat and the dog head as shown. There are other head patterns that you can buy. Read the pattern here – Animal Slippers

Knit Mice Socks for Kids

OMG! How cute are these!! A basic sock design with a few extra embellishments at the end to create some genuine mouse-y goodness. Now I don’t want to toot my own horn too much, but if you want to make something similar for an adult, I have a knitted sock pattern for adults all ready to go on here. Just sayin’ is all… You can read the pattern for these super cuties here – Knit Mice Socks

Das Monster – Knitted Toddler Pants

Possibly the most fantastic knitted toddler pants to ever be created. And though the original pattern was more like the purple and green ones with the teeth, with a bit of tweaking, you could personalize these to be like the Elmo ones. But of course that would be Elmo inspired or a tribute to Elmo. Not the actual Elmo himself because that would be copyright infringement and we don’t want none of that sorta stuff ’round here. Read the pattern here – Das Monster

Duck Feet – Knitted Slippers/Socks

I’ve shared these awesome slippers or socks before because I love them so much! This version is written for toddlers, but you can make them for adults too! Go to Ravelry and you can download the PDF from the same designer. The pattern is written in full here – Knitted Duck Feet for toddlers and here – Duck Feet for Adults.

Bunny Toes – Knitted Baby Booties

Yet another super cute pair of what really are tiny socks with ears and a bit of extra embroidery. But gosh, darn it! Look at what you get! The pattern ranges from 1 month to 4 years. I haven’t tried this pattern yet, but it’s done with very fine yarn and small DPN. If you used a larger gauge of needle and some thicker yarn, it may magically transform into adult sized socks. The number of cast on stitches is the same as my socks, so technically, it should work… let me know if you try. Read the pattern here – Bunny Toes – Knitted Baby Booties

Bunny Hop – Thrummed Bunny Slippers

I’ll be honest, I had no idea what “thrummed” or “thrumming” was (or that it was even a word) until I found this pattern. Thankfully, this pattern not only explains it, but shows you how to do it. In this instance, it makes a cushier, thicker sole. I may need to keep this in mind for future designs… The pattern is in adult sizes only and can be sans bunny parts to make a more sophisticated slipper for those with discerning tastes. Read the pattern here – Bunny Hop Thrummed Bunny Slippers