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Posted on December 5, 2024December 5, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.

This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.

Like always, you can find the ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF version of this pattern through all my regular online purveyors of creation such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts and of course this website at Adult Moccasin Bootie Slippers – Classic Ugg Style – Knitting Pattern.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)

🦉 Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.

Row 3 – 4: K across. 🦉

Repeat from 🦉 to 🦉 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)

Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.

Break yarn when completed row 2.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

🌸 Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. 🌸

Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.

With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap.

With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 26, 28) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Needle arrangement for textured bootie slippers — How the needle arrangement should look.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

How to knit slippers — Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif.
I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern.
The horizontal ridges look the same for you.

Making the Sole

If you need help with the sole, you can watch the video. It starts right where you need it to.

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

🐿️ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across 🐿️

Repeat from 🐿️ to 🐿️ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same
for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)

Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.

Continue to work down the length of the sole.

Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.

♥︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)

Ridges on the side of adult bootie slipper — The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges
when making the larger sizes.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches).

Picking up the stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across ♥︎

Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.

Making the Heel

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.

♦︎ Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♦︎

Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!!

Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.

If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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Posted on November 12, 2024November 14, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Free Pattern: Knitted Owl Slippers with Cozy Cuff for Adults

free knitting pattern - owl slippers with a cuff

Get ready to knit a pair of slippers that are as cozy as they are charming! This knitting pattern brings together the best of warmth and whimsy, featuring a delightful owl motif perched right on top of the foot. These adult-sized slippers have been crafted with both style and function in mind, thanks to a fitted cuff that hugs your ankle for extra warmth and coziness. Perfect for chilly mornings or relaxed evenings, these slippers will be a go-to pair for any owl lover.

This pattern is designed for knitters with a bit of experience—if you’re comfortable with basic stitches, you’ll be able to follow along with ease. And don’t worry, you won’t be left to navigate the trickier parts alone! I’ve included detailed, how-to videos to help guide you through each step, ensuring that even challenging sections feel doable. Before you know it, you’ll have a cozy, owl-adorned pair of slippers that are sure to turn heads and keep feet warm.

if you are a lover of owls, then you are in LUCK! I have a number of patterns with owls including fingerless gloves, owl beanie, owl bucket hat, and an owl scarf. All are knit flat on 2 needles and are FREE to read on this website. Click any of the links and a new window will open a new page with the entire pattern there for you to enjoy.

You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Owl Slippers with a Cuff – Knitting Pattern. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, CreativeFabrica and Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 🥰.

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Happy Knitting!

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough).
You can use a second colour for the cuff.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable Needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy video tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. The embedded video is in the Abbreviations section

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

2” = 9 sts

2” = 18 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Cuff

With CUFF colour

Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42) loosely

 Row 1: K across

Row 2: With the RIGHT side facing you, (K1 P2) across. Maintain this pattern with any remaining sts at the end of the row. 

Repeat from  to  10 (12, 14, 16) times more for a total of 12 (14, 16, 18) rows

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, P across.

Next Row: K across. If cuff colour differs from the MAIN colour, break yarn now. Start the new colour when done knitting this row.

Next Row: K across for 13 (15, 17, 19) rows. Break yarn.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With the MAIN colour and the WRONG side of the ribbing facing you, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

Knit across for 7 (9, 9, 11) rows.

Next Row (with the RIGHT side of the ribbing facing you): K3 P2 K4 P2 K3

Next Row (with the WRONG side of the ribbing facing you): K2 P1 K8 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

♦ Next Row: K2 P1 C4F C4B P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

♥ Next Row: K2 P1 K8 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P8 K3 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 more times

Next Row: Repeat row marked with ♦

Next Row: K3 P2 K4 P2 K3

♪ Next Row: K2 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K2

Next Row: K3 P2 K4 P2 K3 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ 3 more times

Next Row: Repeat row marked with ♦

Next Row: K across for 5 (7, 7, 9) rows.

More of My Stuff on Etsy

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

Sides of Foot

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12, 13,14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

Knit the next 8 (10, 12, 14) rows

There are 4 (5, 6, 7) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The following photo shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 12 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The link starts the video in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - picking up stitches

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).

Working your way down the sides — Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole — Starting the sole. Right side.

Making the Heel

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.

Child moccasin slippers - Picking up stitches to make the heel.

Ҩ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).

Owl Slippers knitting pattern — The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern — Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and K3tog).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Make sure to increase the same amount of garter stitch rows and ribbed rows equally. If increasing 10 rows, do so on both.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. You can watch the how to video here – how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on October 14, 2024October 17, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Knitted Deer Slippers with a Cuff – FREE Knitting Pattern

I’ve always wanted to design a pair of slippers that had a bit more character and substance—something that not only looks good but fits snugly and keeps you cozy. The deer motif on top of the foot gives these slippers a rustic charm, while the substantial cuff provides extra warmth and a secure fit. These slippers are great for knitters who are comfortable with basic stitches and ready to dive into something a bit more intricate.

This pattern is packed with various cable stitches, so you’ll get plenty of practice with your cable needle. The cables vary—sometimes you’ll be knitting the stitches on the cable needle, sometimes purling, and the number of stitches will also change. To keep things simple, I explain how to work each cable stitch as you go along, so you won’t need to constantly check the Abbreviations section.

This isn’t a beginner pattern, but if you’re familiar with the basics of knitting and feel comfortable using a cable needle, you’ll be able to handle this. I’ve included lots of helpful photos to guide you through the deer motif, so you’ll have plenty of visual aids as you knit.

You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knitted Deer Moccasin Slippers with a Cuff. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, CreativeFabrica and Etsy. It is also available as paperback and as a Kindle book on Amazon. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy 🥰. If a link isn’t working, I either haven’t formatted it for the distributor or I’m waiting for approval.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

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Happy Knitting!

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough)

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable Needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy video tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. The embedded video is in the Abbreviations section

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

2” = 9 sts

2” = 18 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Toe Flap

Cast on 14 sts

🦌 Row 1: P across

Row 2: K across 🦌

Repeat from 🦌 to 🦌 2 (3, 4, 5) times more for a total of 6 (8, 10, 12) rows

Next Row: P6 K2 P6

Next Row: K5 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. P the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, P the next st. P the st on the cable needle. K5

🌼 Next Row: P5 K4 P5

Next Row: K5 P4 K5 🌼 Repeat from 🌼 to 🌼 one more time

Next Row: P4 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. K the st on the cable needle. K2 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, K the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P4

Next Row: K4 P6 K4

Next Row: P4 K6 P4

Next Row: K4 P6 K4

Next Row: P3 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next 2 sts. K the st on the cable needle. K2 Pick up the next 2 sts with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, K the next st. K the 2 sts on the cable needle. P3

Next Row: K3 P8 K3

Next Row: P3 K2 P1 K1 PM1 K1 P1 K2 P3 (15 sts)

Next Row: K3 P2 K1 P1 K1 M1 P1 K1 P2 K3 (16 sts)

Next Row: P3 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) P1 K1 P2 K1 P1 K2tog (as you normally would left to right) P3 (14 sts) This video shows how to knit the first K2tog. It’s for the leaf but it’s done the same way.

Next Row: K5 P1 K2 P1 K5

Next Row: P4 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K1 in the st BELOW (see photos). P1 the st on the cable needle. K1 P2 K1 P1 K1 in the 2^nd st BELOW (knit this st in the knit st you made before the P1 as shown in the photos). P4 (16 sts)

How to knit deer antlers — *Knit in the stitch below*

*The other antler.*
*You already knitted the st so it needs to be*
*2 sts down as shown. This is the st that is*
*bold and italicized in the pattern.*

Next Row: K4 P1 K1 P1 K2 P1 K1 P1 K4

Next Row: P3 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. P the st on the cable needle. P1 K1 P2 K1 P1 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P3

Next Row: K3 P1 K2 P1 K2 P1 K2 P1 K3

Next Row: P2 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, K the next st. P the st on the cable needle. P8 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD, P the next st. K the st on the cable needle. P2

Next Row: K2 P1 K10 P1 K2

🍄 Next Row: P across

Next Row: K16 🍄 Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 1 (2, 3, 4) times more. If you want a different colour for the cuff, break yarn when the last row is completed.

Making the Cuff

Next Row:(with the optional cuff colour) K16. Cast on an additional 11 (12, 13, 14). You now have 27 (28, 29, 30) sts on your needle.

Next Row: K27 (28, 29, 30). Cast on an additional 11 (12, 13, 14). You now have 38 (40, 42, 44) sts on your needle.

Next Rows: K across for a total of 13 (15, 17, 19) rows.

Next Row: With the WRONG side facing you, P across.

🌸 🐿️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing you, (K1 P2) across. Maintain this pattern with any remaining sts at the end of the row.

Next Row: K across. 🌸 Repeat from 🌸 to 🌸 6 (7, 8, 9) times more. For a total of 14 (16, 18, 20) rows.

Repeat the row marked with 🐿️ one more time.

Cast off loosely with the WRONG side facing you.

If you would like to change the colour around the toe and foot, change colour now.

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Sides of Foot

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 13 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches evenly along the edge of the cuff and place onto one of your needles. Pick up 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (29, 32, 35, 38) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 13 stitches evenly along the end of the toe flap.

With another needle, pick up 18 (20, 22, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Pick up 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches evenly along the edge of the cuff and place onto the next needle. (29, 32, 35, 38) stitches on this needle)

*I used a capped double pointed needle to work my 13 stitches*
*for the end of the toe. A regular needle also works.*

Knit the next 8 (10, 10, 12) rows

There are 4 (5, 5, 6) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 12 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The link starts the video in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (13 stitches).

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Making the Heel

If you need more help than the photos provide, you can watch the how-to video. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you.

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across. Ҩ Repeat from Ҩ to Ҩ until 7 stitches remain. End with the K across row.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. K3tog. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches). to sew up the remaining seam. Fold the cuff over when done sewing.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

Picking up the stitch to make the second branch of the antler is sort of up to you. If you pick up the stitch right below where you just knitted, it won’t be a disaster. Most deer antlers aren’t perfectly symmetrical in real life anyways. In fact, the more off they are, the more desirable; especially if it has a drop tine.

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Make sure to increase the same amount of garter stitch rows and ribbed rows.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

K3tog – knit 3 together

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how.

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would. Watch this video to see how.

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on September 19, 2024October 4, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit

Welcome to the next book in the series of my collection of knitting patterns! If you enjoyed my Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitts to Knit, I’m sure you’ll enjoy this one just as much.

This delightful collection of practical yet stylish fingerless glove designs is sure to inspire knitters of all skill levels. Each pattern is knit flat on two straight needles, making them accessible even to those who may be new to knitting or prefer simpler techniques. Whether you’re a beginner eager to complete your first project or an intermediate knitter looking to expand your repertoire with charming new details, this collection offers something for everyone.

The designs range from playful, whimsical animals that add a touch of fun to your wardrobe, to elegant leaves and decorative motifs that showcase a refined sense of style. Each pattern is thoughtfully crafted with the perfect balance of simplicity and creativity, ensuring that the process is as enjoyable as the result.

As you work through the patterns, you’ll find yourself fully supported by helpful step-by-step videos and detailed photos, making even the trickiest techniques feel approachable. With these resources, you’ll gain confidence in your knitting skills and be able to complete each glove with pride. This collection will not only add a unique flair to your knitting projects but will also fill your crafting time with joy and satisfaction.

free knitting pattern fingerless gloves - zigzag elegance

Free knitting pattern fingerless gloves, mitts, mittens, wrist warmers

Knit Spider Gloves - Fre Knitting Pattern - Fingerless Gloves with Spiders

Hippo fingerless mittens - free knitting pattern

Knit fingerless gloves - knit flat on straight needles

There are a number of options available to make the fingerless gloves. All the fingerless gloves patterns are free to read on this website. You can use this link – Fingerless Glove and Mitten Patterns to see all of them. I listed them all individually at the end of this post if you are looking for a specific one. 😁

Another option is to purchase and print the pattern yourself. If you are ok with printing the 104 page document, you can buy it from this website – Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit or from my Etsy shop. You can click or tap either of those links to see the collection.

If you would prefer to have the paperback version fully printed, bound and sent directly to your door, you can order the book online from Amazon. Be sure to click on your country so shipping will be as low as possible. If you are an Amazon Prime Member, the shipping is free! If you have a Kindle, the cheaper, digital version is available at the same links.

United States

United Kingdom

Canada

Australia

I understand that not everyone is in the financial position to purchase patterns, and that’s ok. That’s why I offer them for free; to enable anyone to use my work and be able to enjoy and even profit from it. That’s why while I give permission for everyone to sell what they make from my patterns, I ask that you respect the patterns themselves. Do NOT make illegal copies of them.

If you know someone who wants to use the patterns, send them the link so they can read the pattern online themselves. It helps me VERY much when you do this. More people on the website tell search engines that what is on my site is valuable and people like it. This makes it more likely that Google, Bing, Yahoo, etc will suggests my patterns when people do a search online.

To make sharing the patterns even easier, there are floating share buttons along the side of this and every page of the website. All you need to do is click it to share it. You can also use these share buttons to share this page.

Now that we’re through all that, here is the list of individual patterns that you can read online for free.

Basic Fingerless Gloves

Knitted Owl Fingerless Gloves

Zigzag Eleganc e

Easy to Knit Cable Fingerless Gloves

Autumn Leaf Half Glove s

Spider Fingerless Glove s

Hippo Fingerless Glove s

Lattice Fingerless Gloves

I hope you enjoy this latest addition to my knitting compilations!

Happy knitting everyone!!!

Posted on September 4, 2024September 5, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Easy to Knit Cable Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern

I’m thrilled to share my latest knitting pattern for fingerless mitts, and yes, my love for these cozy accessories shows no sign of stopping! This time around, I’ve added a twist—quite literally—with a unique cable pattern that elegantly winds its way down the back of the hand. It’s a design element that adds both texture and visual interest, making these mitts a true standout piece.

If you’re someone who’s mastered the basics and is looking to elevate your knitting game, this pattern is the perfect next step. It’s designed to bridge the gap between a beginner and an experienced knitter. And if cabling is new to you, don’t worry—this is the ideal project to dive in and learn something new! I’ve made sure to include video tutorials in the Abbreviations section to guide you through the cabling process, so you’ll have all the support you need.

But that’s not all! I’ve also added links to help you with any other potentially tricky parts of the pattern, like increasing for the thumb gusset. I want to ensure you feel confident and supported every step of the way. So, grab your needles, and let’s knit something beautiful together!

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Easy Cable Knit Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

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Things You Will Need

Worsted weight yarn (less than 100 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves as written. I know because I weighed them). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of single pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew the seams and work in ends

Cable needle

Sizing

Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.

hand sizing for knitting gloves mitts and mittens

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4) single pointed needles

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6) single pointed needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Left Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1

Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.

Row 7: K15 P1 K16 P1 K3

✰ Row 8: P3 K1 P16 K1 P15

❀ Row 9: K15 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8

Row 11: K15 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Row 12: Repeat ✰Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.

Next row: K12 M1 K M1 K2 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (38 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P17

Next row: K17 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 PM1 P PM1 P13 (40 sts)

Next row: K19 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P19

Next row: K14 M1 K M1 K4 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (42 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P21

Next row: K21 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P5 PM1 P PM1 P15 (44 sts)

Next row: K23 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P23

Next row: K16 M1 K M1 K6 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (46 sts)

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P25

Next row: K25 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P7 PM1 P PM1 P17 (48 sts)

Next row: K27 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P27

Next row: K12 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K2 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (35 sts)

❤ Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P14

Next row: K14 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤

✪ Next row: ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 3 sts P2 K1

Next row: P1 ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 2 sts. K2 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.

Cast off

Thumb

Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Cast off

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Right Hand

Cast on 36

Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1

Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.

Row 7: K3 P1 K16 P1 K15

✰ Row 8: P15 K1 P16 K1 P3

❀ Row 9: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K15

Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8

Row 11: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K15

Row 12: Repeat ✰ Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K2 M1 K M1 K12 (38 sts)

Next row: P17 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K17

Next row: P13 PM1 P PM1 P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 (40 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K19

Next row: P19 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K4 M1 K M1 K14 (42 sts)

Next row: P21 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K21

Next row: P15 PM1 P PM1 P5 K1 P16 K1 P3 (44 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K23

Next row: P23 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K6 M1 K M1 K16 (46 sts)

Next row: P25 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K25

Next row: P17 PM1 P PM1 P7 K1 P16 K1 P3 (48 sts)

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K27

Next row: P27 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K2 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K12 (35 sts)

❤ Next row: P14 K1 P16 K1 P3

Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K14

Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤

✪ Next row: K ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 2 sts P2

Next row: ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 3 sts. K2 P1 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.

Cast off

Thumb

Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Next row: K across

Next row: P across

Cast off

Sew the seams of the thumbs and along the side of each hand. Work in the ends.

Hints and Tips

You can make the gloves as long or as short as you like. I made 3 repeats of the design. You could do less for a shorter version. The grey pair were repeated 7 times to give you an idea of what it looks like when longer.

Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – Purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on July 23, 2024September 8, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Cozy Knitted Lace Up Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knit Lace Up Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

Perfect for new knitters, these slippers are knit flat on just two needles, making them an ideal project for beginners or anyone looking for a straightforward, relaxing knit.

These charming slippers feature a lace-up design at the front, adding a delightful touch of customization and ensuring a snug fit. You can easily adjust the colours to match your personal style or to use up those leftover yarns in your stash.

Whether you’re knitting for yourself, a loved one, a thoughtful handmade gift, or to sell, these slippers are sure to bring warmth and comfort to any pair of feet. So, gather your materials, find a cozy spot, and let’s get started on creating your very own pair of Cozy Lace-Up Slippers!

If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Cozy Knitted Lace Up Slippers, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and the Kindle and paperback versions are available on Amazon.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 354 yard, 7 oz or 324 m, 198 gram ball will be more than enough to make single colour slippers).

Size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. If you are using multiple colours, you can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men’s size 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Unlike most knitting patterns, this pattern’s right side and wrong side are reversed. All ODD numbered rows are the WRONG side and all the EVEN numbered rows are the RIGHT side.

If you need help with the M1, there is a video in the Hints and Tips section.

With lace up section colour, cast on 52 (60, 60, 68) sts. Leave a longer length to sew the top of the toe (about 18 inches).

Row 1 (wrong side): K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4

Row 2 (right side): K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8

Row 3: As row 1

Row 4: K4 (P2 K2) to last 8 sts. P8

Row 5: As row 1

Row 6: As row 4

Row 7: As row 1

Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. (ie. red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple). See Hints and Tips section for more information.

♠ Row 8: K to last 8 sts. P8

Row 9: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)

Change to colour for heel section.

♦ ☺ Row 20: K to last 8 sts. P8

Row 21: K across ☺

Row 22: K to last 8 sts. M1 P8

Row 23: As row 21 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 3 more times. (56, 64, 64, 72 sts)

Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 0 (1, 2, 3) times more for an additional 0 (2, 4, 6) rows.

♫ Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8

Next row: K across

Next row: K to the last 10 sts. K2tog. P8

Next row: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 3 more times. (52, 60, 60, 68)

Change to other colour – This is the 12 row section you can use to create your colour design. Remember to knit the rows in the reverse order you did originally (ie. purple, blue, green, yellow, orange, red)

♣ Next row: As row 8

Next row: As row 9 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 more times or a total of 12 rows. (each colour is one repeat if making the rainbow colours)

Change to lace up section colour

Next row: K to the last 8 sts. P8

Next row: K8 (P2 K2) to the last 4 sts. P4

Next row: As row 4

Next row: As row 1

Next row: As row 4

Next row: As row 1

Next row: K4 (P2tog YO K2) to last 8 sts. P8 (As row 2)

Next row: Repeat row 1

Cast off

Make another slipper to match.

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Slipper Laces (make 2)

If you know how to crochet, you can use a size 5 mm (US size 8) and chain as many sts to make it 3 times the length of the slipper. Slip stitch in every chain. Tie off. Stretch out the lace when done.

If you want to knit it instead, cast on 140 (160, 1600, 180) sts. Cast off. Stretch out the lace when done.

You can also braid 3 lengths of yarn to form the lace. I’m not sure how long of lengths you’ll need to do this.

How I laced up the slipper. The lace up areas are sewn together but you don’t have to.

Hints and Tips

There are 12 rows (6 ridges) that form the pattern on the side of the slipper after the lace up area. You can change colours any way you would like for this section. I’ve shown a number of combinations: 1 colour (beige), 2 colour alternating (purple), 3 colour lighter to darker (browns), 6 colour (rainbow), but you may want to try something else.

*The 6 colours are 2 rows each for a total of 12 rows.*

To sew the seams, use a simple whip stitch for the toe and the lace up section. You don’t want thick seams for these slippers. And speaking of the lace up section, you don’t have to sew it all the way. Up part way, past the toes, will work. I sewed mine all the way up to the rolled cuff. I like how it fits, looks and feels when it’s sewn all the way. But that’s just my preference.

Use the whip stitch when sewing the toes. Draw the stitches together as tightly as you can to draw them together to give a rounder look. To have them draw together even tighter, when you are done with the whip stitch, pull the ends through each corner. Flip the slipper inside out. Weave in each end. When doing this pull the yarn ends even tighter and work the end back on itself to secure it.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

P2tog – purl to sts together.

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch.

K2tog – knit 2 sts together.

YO – yarn over. With this pattern, when you go from making the purl st to the knit st, don’t pull the yarn to the back of your work. The YO is forming the hole to weave the lace through.

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on June 17, 2024July 4, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Knit Flat Bucket Hat – with OWLS! Free Knitting Pattern

This is an old riff on a new design. As you may know, I have a thing for owls. I’m also starting to develop a thing for hats. In particular, bucket hats. I have a crochet version and a double thick knit version done thus far. With this hat, the owls can easily be replaceable with any design. And yes, I will be replacing it with various stitch patterns, colours and the like. I may even redesign it so it’s knit in the round on multiple needles so there’s no seam. If you would like that pattern, let me know in the comments.

Unlike my other plain knitted bucket hat, this one doesn’t require anything beyond a single pair of knitting needles and a cable needle. If you’ve made my other owl projects like the scarf, fingerless gloves and the beanie hat, then you’ll be able to make this up in no time.

If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

Not a fan of reading things online or would like to print this pattern? You can download the ad free PDF version of this pattern for a small here – Knit Owl Bucket Hat, from Ravelry, LoveCrafts, my Etsy S hop or as a Kindle or paperback from Amazon.

Another option, become a member on this site. It’s not overly expensive, only $3 per month, and you can cancel at any time.

In the exclusive member area, I’ve listed all of my patterns by category and you can download them with a single click. No waiting for links through an email. Simply click the link, the pattern downloads, and depending on your computer or smart device settings, opens automatically. Easy peasy. Once you become a member, you can also read the pattern online without ads or pop-ups. Interested? Click the link below…

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)

4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

16 buttons or jewels for eyes

Gauge

In stockinette

10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizes are written as such:

S-M (L-XL)

Top

With main colour

Cast on 5

Row 1: INC across (10 sts)

If there are any stitches that you don’t know how to make, please go to the Abbreviations section at the end of the pattern. I embedded the how-to YouTube videos for you to watch there. 😊

Row 2: P across (always P across for every even row, or WRONG side, until told otherwise directed in the instructions)

Row 3: *K1 M1 * Repeat from * to * until last 2 sts. K2 (18 sts)

Row 5: ♠ K2 M1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ until last 2 sts. K2 (26 sts)

Row 7: ♦ K3 M1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until last 2 sts. K2 (34 sts)

Row 9: ♥ K4 M1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until last 2 sts. K2 (42 sts)

Row 11: ♪ K5 M1 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ until last 2 sts. K2 (50 sts)

Row 13: ▲ K6 M1 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ until last 2 sts. K2 (58 sts)

Row 15: ☼ K7 M1 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ until last 2 sts. K2 (66 sts)

Row 17: ⌂ K8 M1 ⌂ Repeat from ⌂ to ⌂ until last 2 sts. K2 (74 sts)

Row 19: ∞ K9 M1 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ until last 2 sts. K2 (82 sts)

Row 21: ♣ K10 M1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ until last 2 sts. K2 (90 sts)

Stop here if making the sm/med size hat. Go to row marked with ■ and skip row 23 and 24.

Row 23: ◄ K11 M1 ◄ Repeat from ◄ to ◄ until last 2 sts. K2 (98 sts)

Owl Band

■ Change colour for top stripe.

Next 4 rows: K across.

Change colour for owls.

Next row (right side): K across.

Next row (wrong side): K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1(2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ɵ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) ɵ Repeat from ɵ to ɵ 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ɸ P1(2) C4F C4B P2 ɸ Repeat from ɸ to ɸ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 Ʊ K2 P8 K1(2) Ʊ Repeat from Ʊ to Ʊ 7 times more. K1

☺Next row (right side): P1 ¤ P1(2) K8 P2 ¤ Repeat from ¤ to ¤ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ɚ K2 P8 K1(2) ɚ Repeat from ɚ to ɚ 7 times more. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺

2 times more.

Next row: P1 ☻ P1(2) C2F C2B P2 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1

◊ Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1 (2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ȸ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) ȸ Repeat from ȸ to ȸ 7 times more. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊

4 times more.

Change colour for bottom stripe.

Next row: K1 ∆ K1(2) C4F C4B K2 ∆ Repeat from ∆ to ∆ 7 times more. K1

Next 3 rows: K across

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Brim

Change to main colour.

Next row: * K2 M1 K1* Repeat across. K0(2). (120 (162 sts)

۞ Next row: K0(2) ♥ P3 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ across

Next row: K across

Next row: Repeat row marked with ۞

Next row: ♫ INC K3 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ across. K0(2). (150 (162 sts)

Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across

§ Next row: K across

Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across § Repeat from § to § 2 more times.

Cast off.

Hints and Tips

Unlike the other knit bucket hat I have, there is nothing overly tricky about this one. It knits flat on one set of needles making it much easier to make.

Blocking your final project is always up to you. Most things I make I never block. I did with the smaller version (yellow with the yarn eyes) so it would fit the mannequin head better. I cannot recommend a steamer enough! There are a variety on Amazon for fairly cheap. These use nothing but steam, and even when using acrylic yarn, it still holds its shape while relaxing the stitches and doesn’t squash the knitting like a standard iron will.

I also decided to try embroidering on the eyes for the owls. I’m also running out of the half cabochons for eyes so I kinda had to. Do I love it? I don’t hate it and prefer the half cabs but that’s just me. All I did was run a single strand of yarn behind the owls and embroider over the stitches in the eye position. You can see the yarn running behind a bit. If it was a lighter yarn behind a darker colour it would look better. I also left enough yarn between eyes to stretch with the hat. Make sure it’s not too tight if you do this!

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch Click this link to watch this video to see how.

Posted on February 1, 2024February 3, 2024 by admin — 1 Comment

Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults – FREE Knitting Pattern

Ribbed moccasin bootie slippers for adults - green

Shocker. Another slipper design 😂 I really do like this style of slipper but after designing the basic moccasin slipper, I was thinking of ways that I can gussy it up a bit if you will. I liked the idea of doing ribbing around it, simply for the additional visual appeal. When I started I didn’t realize how complicated it would be to make the ribbing line up regardless of the sizing. But I gave it some thought, did the math and tahdah! The ribbed moccasins slippers have arrived.

Like the original design, this style of slipper is knit flat on straight needles. The only catch is that it use 2 sets of needles. Don’t worry though. I’ve added a number of photos to help you along. There’s even a few videos for specific stitches and techniques on YouTube if you need extra help.

If you would prefer a printable, ad-avoiding version, you can download the PDF version of this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults. You can also get it at a number of other online retailers such as Ravelry, CreativeFabrica, DeviantArt and Etsy. There is also the Kindle and Paperback versions available on Amazon.

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Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough).

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. (You can watch the embedded video in the Hints and Tips section too).

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Cast on 42 (46, 46, 50)

♠ Row 1: P across

Row 2: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows

♫ Row 9: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 9 (10, 10, 11) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).

Row 10: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ for a total of 10 (10, 12, 12) rows.

Next Row: Repeat row 9.

Toe Flap

Next Row: Pass the next 14 (16, 16, 18) sts on to a stitch holder. K1 M1 K12 M1 K1. Leave the remaining sts unworked on your non-working needle. Turn

♣ ☺ Next Row: P3 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. P1

Next Row: K across. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 12 (12, 14, 14) times more.

Repeat the row marked with ☺. 28 (28, 36, 36) rows for the toe flap.

Making the Sides

Next Row: Put the sts on the stitch holder back on a knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing and with your first needle, K14 (16, 16, 18). Pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the first st of the stockinette stripe and in the M1.

Right side of slipper

With your second needle along the sts of the toe flap, K2tog (To make it blend more into the slipper, pick up the first st as if to knit, twist this st and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit this and the next st together going from RIGHT to LEFT. You can also knit the 2 sts together as you normally would if you want.) K12 K2tog (as you normally would).

With your third needle, pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the M1 and the first st of the stockinette stripe. K14 (16, 16, 20).

Left side of the slipper. (I accidentally dropped the next 2 sts when taking the photo)

Your 3 needles will look like this

♥ Next Row: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 17 (18, 20, 21) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).

Next Row: K across ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 (3, 4, 5).

With the WRONG side facing you, cast off 30 (32, 36, 38) sts. (Maintain the P2 K2 pattern while casting off) P1 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. Cast off the remaining sts maintaining the P2 K2 pattern. Bind off

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Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide below, you can watch the how-to video embedded here. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. The video is for a different style of slipper, but it is made EXACTLY the same way.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Your slipper will look like the slipper above. (I’m using a similar design to more clearly show the cast off stitches.)

Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Making the Heel

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper by working on the 14 sole sts already on your needle, and picking up a st on each side of the needle.

I’ve made a specific video showing how to make the heel. It’s for a number of different styles, but it works the same for all.

Please note: the video decreases every other row. This pattern calls for decreasing EVERY row after the first one or two rows (depending on size). I’ve included photos but if you are still confused, please watch the video embedded below.

♠ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 0 (0, 1, 1) time.

◘ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next row: Knit across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the side. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Hints and Tips

I make my K2tog a little differently at the top of the toe only because how the t looks when you knit the two together can look off. I’m very picky though. It doesn’t really matter.

When picking up the first 2 and last 2 sts along the toe, you don’t have to go through the M1. Once again, I’m just overly particular about what it looks like. What works for you will be fine.

There is a lot of breaking and rejoining of yarn with this pattern. I have made a complete tutorial showing How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can watch the video right here.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Posted on January 27, 2024June 3, 2024 by admin — Leave a comment

Crocheted Sun Hat and Bucket Hat – FREE Crochet Pattern

Crochet hat pattern - sun hat bucket hat cowboy hat

Gussy it up or wear it plain, this crocheted hat pattern is extremely versatile and makes hats for nearly anyone. Anyone but my 14 year old son apparently, who said, with his usual unenthusiastic honesty, “I don’t like it but it fits OK”. How do I know this? I needed to borrow his head to see how the smaller size fit and felt when wearing, so I guess it’s at least fit approved ¯\_(‘~’)_/¯

If you would prefer to have a KNITTED version of the bucket hat, I have that too! Click this link – Knit Bucket Hat for Children and Adults – FREE Pattern to start making hats for the entire family, kids included!

This hat can be made a number of ways, either as a wider brimmed sun hat with a flower, plain with the brim shaped similar to a cowboy/cowgirl hat, or with a narrower brim to be a bucket hat. Any way you choose is going to be a success! It’s easy to make, and as long as you know the basics of crochet. Literally if you know how to chain, single crochet (sc) and do a slip stitch (sl st), you’ll be able to make the hat. The flower can be a bit more tricky but I’ve included many photos and detailed descriptions to help you along.

The hat is made with 2 strands worsted weight yarn (or one strand of super bulky yarn) and a larger crochet hook. The stitches need to be fairly tight so the hat will hold it’s shape. Anything larger than the gauge given will make it floppy and the sizing may not work out as written. But, like all my patterns, play with it! If you want a floppy hat, no one said you can’t.

There aren’t any specific measurements for the hat sizing. It’s all very general as there is some stretch to the hat when finished and will form to fit the head it’s covering. If you want your hat to fit a little looser, go for the bigger size.

The way I thought of it when I was designing this hat, if it fit the glass head, it’s a small/medium size. In other words, a regular sized head. If it fits me and looks a little too big on the glass head, it’s a large/extra large. Let me put it this way. I know I have a big head. If you have ever thought you too might have a big head because hats don’t always fit you, hello fellow large head! If this statement makes no sense to you, go for the small/medium.

If you are looking to make the flower and the leaves, they each have their own page on the website. This pattern turned into a bit of a beast as it is. Both patterns are included with the printable PDF version of the sun and bucket hat.

Crochet Flower Pattern

Crochet Leaf Pattern

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

If you would like to avoid the ads on this page or would like to print the pattern, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee from this website at Sun Hat with Gorgeous Flower or Simple Bucket Hat – Printable Crochet Pattern, through my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts or on Ravelry.

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Small/Medium

Large/Extra Large

Abbreviations

Ch – chain

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble crochet

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Things You Need:

6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook (or what ever size hook you need to get the correct gauge)

3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook for top edging, flowers and leaves (all optional)

2 balls Worsted Weight yarn or 1 ball Super Bulky yarn (for the hat itself)

For the sun hat you’l need:

106 gr or 3.7 oz each of the worsted weight colours (216 m or 237 yards)

173 gr or 6 oz Super Bulky yarn (170 m or 185 yards) of course it’s less yarn for the bucket hat.

Worsted weight yarn (for band, flowers, leaves and edging)

Stitch markers (at least 8 but it never hurts to have more. See Hints and Tips section)

Tapestry needle (to sew band and flowers, work in the ends)

Gauge

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn

13 sts = 4”

14 rows = 4”

Check your gauge to obtain correct sizing and density of the final fabric created. The stitching needs to be tight to hold the hat shape.

Small/Medium

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…

Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)

Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.

Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)

Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)

Round 8: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (66 sts)

Round 9: Sc around in the back loop.

Round 10-20: Sc around.

Round 21: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (77 sts)

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch).

If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!

Round 22: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sc in the last st. (or crochet as many stitches as you have at the end of the round). (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).

Round 23: 4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around (Crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round but there should be 0).

Round 24: *10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. 2sc (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 31.

Round 25: 5sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 8sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

Round 26: Sc around.

Round 27: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.

Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.

Round 28: Sc around.

Round 29: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around.

Round 30: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.

Round 31: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Top or Crown Edging (Optional)

With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn…

In the loops left from Round 9, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Work in all ends.