Category: Mitt and Glove Patterns

I’ve been wanting to design a super simple mitten pattern for a while now—something warm, easy to make, and knit flat on two needles. And here it is! These adult-sized mittens are thick, cozy, and knit up surprisingly fast. Whether you’re newer to knitting or just want a no-fuss project to whip up in an evening or two, this free mitten pattern is a great one to try.

They’re available in sizes small to extra-large, so you can make a pair for just about anyone. I used basic stitches and construction, and I’ve included lots of helpful how-to videos in the Abbreviations section if you have difficulty with any of the knitting techniques. If you’re looking for an easy knitting pattern for mittens that doesn’t require double-pointed needles, I think you’ll love how simple (and warm!) these turn out.

And if you would like to make a pair that’s a little fancier, I also have the same mittens, but made with an owl motif on the back of the hand. It’s also free to read on my website. You can read it here – Extra Thick Owl Mitts. They are also knit flat on 2 needles and include videos to help you along. When you click the link or photo, a new window opens. You won’t lose this page.

If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.

If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. The Kindle download and paperback versions are available in English only.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Things You Need

You can make the mittens with either 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, or one strand of super bulky yarn. Take your pick. But please note, you don’t need both. Choose one or the other.

Worsted weight yarn – 2 (two) balls of yarn (215 yards/197 m). You’ll have leftover yarn.

or

Super Bulky yarn – (186 yards/170 m) like Bernat or Lion brand. Not all super bulky yarn is as thick as others. A Bulkyyarn may also work if it’s on the thicker side. As long as your gauge is the same your sizing will be accurate.

5 mm (8 US) single point needles

Tapestry needle – to sew seams and work in ends

Sizing

My standard for sizing was my and my son’s hands and designed the knitting pattern to fit us comfortably. Our hands are fairly standard in size and the measurements I used for the mitten sizes are similar to those used for rubber glove sizing. I’ve included a infographic to give you an idea of the measurements of the hands.You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge and accurate sizing.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles

13 stitches every 4 inches (10 cm)

20 rows every 4 inches (10 cm)

Sizes are written as such:

S (M, L, XL)

** If you need help with any stitch or technique, 

there are video links at the end of the pattern in the Abbreviations section to help you **

Left Hand

Cast on 24 (26, 26, 28)

Row 1-12: ◊ K1 P1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ across.

Row 13: K1 (2, 2, 3) INC * K6 INC * Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K the 

remaining 1 (2, 2, 3) sts. (28, 30, 30, 32 sts) 

Row 14: P across 

Row 15: K across

Row 16: P across 

Row 17: K11 (12, 12, 13) M1 K1 M1 K16 (17, 17, 18). (30, 32, 32, 34 sts) 

Row 18: P across

Row 19: K across

Row 20: P16 (17, 17, 18) PM1 P3 PM1 P11 (12, 12, 13). (32, 34, 34, 36 sts) 

Row 21: K across

Row 22: P across

Row 23: K11 (12, 12, 13) M1 K5 M1 K16 (17, 17, 18). (34, 36, 36, 38 sts) 

Row 24: P across

Row 25: K across

Row 26: P16 (17, 17, 18) PM1 P7 PM1 P11 (12, 12, 13). (36, 38, 38, 40 sts)

Row 27: K across

Row 28: P across

Row 29: K11 (12, 12, 13) M1 K9 M1 K16 (17, 17, 18). (38, 40, 40, 42 sts)

Row 30: P across

Row 31: K across

** Stop here if making the M, L and XL size mittens **

Go to the row marked with ✪

Continue with ❤ Row 32 for SMALL

❤ Row 32: P across

Row 33: K11 Pass the next 11 sts onto your st holder. K16 (27 sts)

Row 34: P16 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P11 (28 sts)

** Stop here if making the SMALL size mitten **

Go to the row marked with a ♦

Continue for M, L and XL

✪ Row 32: P0 (17, 17, 18) PM1 P11 PM1 P0 (12, 12, 13). (0, 40, 40, 44 sts)

Row 33: K across

Row 34: P across

** Stop here if making the EXTRA LARGE size mitten **

Go to the row marked with a ✿

Continue with ✚ Row 35 for MEDIUM and LARGE

✚ Row 35: K12 Pass the next 13 sts onto your st holder. K17 (29 sts)

Row 36: P17 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P12 (30 sts)

** Stop here if making the MEDIUM and LARGE size mitten **

Go to the row marked with a ♦

Continue for XL

✿ Row 35: K13 M1 K13 M1 K18. (46 sts)

Row 36: P across

Row 37: K13 Pass the next 15 sts onto your st holder. K18 (31 sts)

Row 38: P18 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P13 (32 sts)

Go to the row marked with a ♦

Starting the Finger Cap of the Mitt

You transferred all the stitches for the thumb onto your stitch holder for all sizes. Now to make the portion that covers your fingers.

♦ Next row: K across

Next row: P across ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ for a total of 22 (24, 26, 28) rows.

Next row: K2tog across. (14, 15, 15, 16 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row: K2tog across. Knit the remaining single st for M and L sizes. (7, 8, 8, 8 sts)

Next row: P across. Break yarn leaving about a foot of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.

Thumb

Pick up the 11 (13, 13, 15) sts from the st holder and put them on you knitting needle. 

▲ Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across ▲ Repeat for ▲ to ▲ for a total of 8 (10, 12, 12) rows.

Next row: K2tog across. K the last st. (6, 7, 7, 8 sts)

Next row: P across. Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.

More of my Stuff on Etsy

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Right Hand

Cast on 24 (26, 26, 28)

Row 1-12: ◊ K1 P1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ across.

Row 13: K1 (2, 2, 3) INC * K6 INC * Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K the 

remaining 1 (2, 2, 3) sts. (28, 30, 30, 32 sts) 

Row 14: P across

Row 15: K across

Row 16: P across

Row 17: K16 (17, 17, 18) M1 K1 M1 K11 (12, 12, 13). (30, 32, 32, 34 sts) 

Row 18: P across

Row 19: K across

Row 20: P11 (12, 12, 13) PM1 P3 PM1 P16 (17, 17, 18). (32, 34, 34, 36 sts) 

Row 21: K across

Row 22: P across

Row 23: K16 (17, 17, 18) M1 K5 M1 K11 (12, 12, 13)). (34, 36, 36, 38 sts) 

Row 24: P across

Row 25: K across

Row 26: P11 (12, 12, 13) PM1 P7 PM1 P16 (17, 17, 18). (36, 38, 38, 40 sts)

Row 27: K across

Row 28: P across

Row 29: K16 (17, 17, 18) M1 K9 M1 K11 (12, 12, 13). (38, 40, 40, 42 sts)

Row 30: P across

Row 31: K across

** Stop here if making the M, L and XL size mittens **

Go to the row marked with ✪

Continue with ❤ Row 32 for SMALL

❤ Row 32: P across

Row 33: K16 Pass the next 11 sts onto your st holder. K11 (27 sts)

Row 34: P11 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P16 (28 sts)

** Stop here if making the SMALL size mitten **

Go to the row marked with a ♦

Continue here for M, L and XL

✪ Row 32: P0 (12, 12, 13) PM1 P11 PM1 P0 (17, 17, 18). (0, 40, 40, 44 sts)

Row 33: K across

Row 34: P across

** Stop here if making the EXTRA LARGE size mitten **

Go to the row marked with a ✿

Continue with ✚ Row 35 for MEDIUM and LARGE

✚ Row 35: K17 Pass the next 13 sts onto your st holder. K12. (29 sts)

Row 36: P12 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P17 (30 sts)

** Stop here if making the MEDIUM and LARGE size mitten **

Go to the row marked with a ♦

Continue here for XL only

✿ Row 35: K18 M1 K13 M1 K3. (46 sts)

Row 36: P across

Row 37: K18 Pass the next 15 sts onto your st holder. K13 (31 sts)

Row 38: P13 PM1 (remake the st used for the thumb) P18 (32 sts)

Go to the row marked with a ♦

Starting the Finger Cap of the Mitt

You transferred all the stitches for the thumb onto your stitch holder for all sizes. Now to make the portion that covers your fingers.

♦ Next row: K across

Next row: P across ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ for a total of 22 (24, 26, 28) rows.

Next row: K2tog across. (14, 15, 15, 16 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row: K2tog across. Knit the remaining single st for M and L sizes. (7, 8, 8, 8 sts)

Next row: P across. Break yarn leaving about a foot of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.

Thumb

Pick up the 11 (13, 13, 15) sts from the st holder and put them on you knitting needle. 

▲ Row 1: K across

Row 2: P across ▲ Repeat for ▲ to ▲ for a total of 8 (10, 12, 12) rows.

Next row: K2tog across. K the last st. (6, 7, 7, 8 sts)

Next row: P across. Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of length to sew the seam. Draw yarn through.

Hints and Tips

Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.

If you find the fingers a little short, you can make extra rows after the thumb. They are a little longer than I would make for myself, but my fingers are a bit stubby. They should fit the majority of people as written.

I’ve written the pattern to include 12 rows for the cuff regardless of size. Make it longer or shorter as you see fit. You may want it longer if the wearer prefers a longer cuff to tuck into their sleeve.

Try mixing mixing your strands of worsted weight yarn instead of using one colour for both balls. You could get some neat effects using a variegated yarn and a solid colour of yarn.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

st – stitch

sts – stitches

INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch 
Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to INC When Knitting – Increase one stitch

K2tog – knit 2 sts together. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to K2tog or Knit 2 Together

M1 – 
Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches 

PM1 – 
Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1

If you have never used a stitch holder before, here’s how you hold the stitches so you can make the thumb later. Watch this video on How to Use a Stitch Holder

If you aren’t sure how to draw the yarn through at the end of the fingers and thumbs, it’s pretty simple. You’re gathering the stitches together. Watch this video on How to Gather Stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected]. 

I want to start this intro off with making everyone aware that this pattern is NOT for beginners. If you are looking for something a little easier or plain I have a couple options that may work better for you. You can try Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern or see what all the options are available by going to the Fingerless Mitts and Glove section on the website.

Even though an experienced knitter will be able to make these, I have provided some photos to help with the pattern. I’m assuming you know how to carry yarn behind your work to change colours. It’s not hard to do, but you do need to watch the tension and make sure that it is neither too tight or loose and is consistent. 

I really like how this pattern turned out, though it did take some fiddling to figure out how to incorporate the lattice pattern into the gloves. Now that I’ve figured it out, I thinking about other patterns I can add this detail to ☺. Yes, I am thinking slippers!

If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Lattice Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 10 US (6 mm) knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Sizing

Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 6 mm (US size 10) knitting needles

8 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

10 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Colours

MC – Main colour. The colour of the cuffs and lattice design

BG – Background colour. The colour the lattice is on. The palm and back of the hand.

HC – Highlight colour. The band at the end of the wrist section and start of the cuff at the fingers

Continue using the colour until stated to change in the pattern. 

You can use more colours than the 3 colours listed. You can use one colour and made tone on tone fingerless mitts. It’s up to you.

Right Hand

Cast on 33 sts

Row 1: With MC K across

Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: K across

Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Carry yarn behind your work for row 23 (saves an end to work in)

Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)

Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at the end of row 22.

Row 23: *With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. With BG K13. Break BG colour.

Row 24: Pass next 13 sts onto working needle. With MC YF, Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat to the end of the row. (Don’t work this stitch. Let yarn hang).

Row 25: Join BG K across.

Row 26: P across.

☼ ♣ Row 27: With MC K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times more. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. (see Abbreviations for photos to LK).

♦ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise *YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise

Row 29: With BG K across

Row 30: P across

♥ Row 31: With MC *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

■ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise * YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise, * Repeat from * to * 3 times more.

Row 33: With BG K across

Row 34: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats. 

Row 35: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 36: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 37: With BG K26 M1 K M1 K11 (40 sts)

Row 38: P across

Row 39: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 40: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 41: With BG K across

Row 42: P12 PM1 P PM1 P27 (42 sts)

Row 43: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 44: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 45: With BG K across

Row 46: P across

Row 47: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 48: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 49: With BG K28 M1 K M1 K13 (44 sts)

Row 50: P across

Row 51: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 52: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 53: With BG K across

Row 54: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P29 (46 sts)

Row 55: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 56: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 57: With BG K across

Row 58: P across

Row 59: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 60: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 61: With BG K30 M1 K1 M1 K15 (48 sts)

Row 62: P across

Row 63: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 64: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 65: With BG K across

Row 66: P16 PM1 P PM1 P31 (50 sts)

Row 67: Repeat ♣ Row 27

Row 68: Repeat ♦ Row 28

Row 69: With BG K across

Row 70: P across

Row 71: Repeat ♥ Row 31

Row 72: Repeat ■ Row 32

Row 73: With BG K26 Pass next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K11 (37 sts)

Row 74: P across. Break BG yarn

Row 75:  Repeat ♣ Row 27. Break MC yarn. Pass the 25 sts just worked onto the other needle with 12 unworked stitches.

Row 76: With HC K4 * K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more.K2tog K4 (33 sts)

Row 77-79: Knit across

Row 80: With MC K across

Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Row 82: Repeat row 80

Row 83: Repeat row 81

Cast off.

Make Thumb

Transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle. 

☺ Row 1: With MC K across

♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K

Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1

Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2

Cast off

Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.

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Left Hand

Cast on 33 sts

Row 1: With MC K across

Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.

Row 9: K across

Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Break yarn.

Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts. This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)

Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at end of row 22.

Row 23: With BG K13.*With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. Break BG colour.

Row 24: With MC and YF Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat from * to * 3 times more. YF. Pass next 13 sts onto working needle.

Row 25: Join BG K across.

Row 26: P across

۞ § Row 27: With BG K13. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (see Hints and Tips andAbbreviations for photos to cross yarn and LK respectively).

۩ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise . Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

◊ Row 29: With BG K25 over the 25 sts from previous row.

Row 30: P across.

ʘ Row 31: With BG K13 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (40 sts)

▲ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise *YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 33: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 34: P across. ۞ Repeat from ۞ to ۞ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.

Row 35: With BG K11 M1 K M1 K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1 Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (40 sts)

Row 36: Repeat ۩ Row 28.

Row 37: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 38: P across

Row 39: With BG K15 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. 

Row 40: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 41: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 42: P27 PM1 P PM1 P12. (42 sts)

Row 43: With BG K17. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. 

Row 44: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.

Row 45: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 46: P across

Row 47: With BG K13 M1 K M1 K3 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (44 sts)

Row 48: Repeat ▲ row 32

Row 49: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 50: P across

Row 51: With BG K19. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. 

Row 52: Repeat ۩ Row 28 

Row 53: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 54: P29 PM1 P PM1 P14 (46 sts)

Row 55: With BG K21 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. 

Row 56: Repeat ▲ row 32

Row 57: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 58: P across.

Row 59: With BG K15 M1 K M1 K5. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (48 sts)

Row 60: Repeat ۩ Row 28

Row 61: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 62: P across

Row 63: With BG K23 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. 

Row 64: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 65: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 66: P31 PM1 P PM1 P16 (50 sts)

Row 67: With BG K25. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. 

Row 68: Repeat ۩ row 28

Row 69: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 70: P across

Row 71: With BG K11. Pass the next 13 sts onto a st holder K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. LK. (37 sts)

Row 72: Repeat ▲ Row 32

Row 73: Repeat ◊ row 29

Row 74: P across

Row 75: With BG K12 Break BG colour yarn. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Break MC. Pass ALL of the sts just worked onto the non-working needle. 

Row 76: With HC K4 *K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K2tog. K4 (33 sts)

Row 77-79: Knit across. Break yarn.

Row 80:With MC K across

Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K

Row 82: Repeat row 80

Row 83: Repeat row 81

Cast off.

Make Thumb

transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle. 

☺ Row 1: With MC K to the last st. K

♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.

Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1

Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2

Cast off

Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.

Hints and Tips

Don’t pull your yarn tight when pulling the yarn across the back of your work. Give enough slack to let the stitches stretch as they should and NOT bunch up. Not doing so will make the gauge significantly smaller and the glove won’t fit.

The lattice pattern is worked when the WRONG side is facing you. 

The palm of the hand is plain. FYI I tried to make the lattice pattern all over the mitt. It looked and felt weird and had NO stretch. 

You don’t need to add the rolled edge. Rows 1-8 create the roll. You can start with the ribbing at Row 9.

If you want to have a longer version of the glove than what is written, you may need to add more sts to the 13 st section so it will fit around the forearm. There isn’t a lot of stretch to allow for the wide part of the upper forearm.

Crossing over the yarn is straight forward. It needs to look like this or you will get odd shaped stitches.

If you are a left handed knitter, the crossing over of the yarn may need to be done on the right hand instead of the left. I’m not left handed, but logic would dictate things are reversed. In light of you being left handed, I’m assuming this isn’t the first time you’ve run across this issue.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – Purl

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches 

YF – pull the yarn to the FRONT of your work

YB – pull the yarn to the BACK of your work

Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle without working the stitch.

LK – loop knit. Pick up the loop running across between the sts. Knit this and the next st on the needle.

The loops on the edge are slightly harder to see but done the same way.

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

I originally started this 3D animal adventure with my very popular owl gloves (both knit flat and knit in the round. Those are clickable links btw ☺) It then progressed on to my Spider Gloves and Autumn Leaf Gloves. I wanted to make a cat sitting down on a pair of fingerless mitts. Well, that didn’t turn out as expected but it is how these hippo gloves came to be. I’m still working on the cat gloves…

When making these, I realized that I couldn’t make it in the traditional way by starting at the cuff and working my way to the fingers. I had to go the opposite way to be able to make the arms, legs, body, head and ears. No problem. I rewrote the basic glove pattern. That’s over on Amazon as an exclusive. It will be put on my website eventually so check out this website to see if it’s here at KweenBee.com.

If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mittens, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Google Books, CreativeFabrica and the Kindle and paperback version are both available on Amazon. This is linked to the USA version. If you’re from anther country make sure you switch over to where you live.

Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. Because it is knit flat there is a seam that runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches. And also, the hippo will never fall off. It’s made as you make the glove by going back and forth and making formed bobbles. Other than the thumb, this is made in one piece. 

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.

Knitting needles:

Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles

Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

0.27 inch (7mm) wiggle eyes or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.

Gauge

In stockinette stitch

Small

size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles

11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Medium

size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles

10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Large

size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles

9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizing

Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the hippo the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.

To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.

PLEASE Note!

I’ve added photos in the rows of the pattern that have trickier parts like making the bobbles, belly and decreases. If you are a seasoned knitter and don’t need the photos, I’ve written out the rows again without the photos. Regardless…you only need to knit each row once!

RIGHT Hand

Cast on 34

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change colours, do so now.)

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts. K20. (47 sts) If you need help with casting on you can watch this video.

Row 14: Knit across

Row 15 (Feet): K35 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn).

K2,

Bobble 3 (as before),

K8.

***Row 15 repeated without the photos***

Row 15 (Feet): K35 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOTturn). K2, Bobble 3 (as before), K8.

Row 16: K8 P4 K35

Row 17 (Belly): K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K9. (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches,

P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, 

P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. 

Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9. (51 sts)

***Row 17 repeated without the photos***

Row 17 (Belly): K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K9. (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9. (51 sts)

Row 18: K9 P8 K34

Row 19: K across

Row 20: K9 P8 K34

Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.)

There is a video I made for another pattern that shows how to twist the stitch to get the nice edge. 

K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right as you normally would.), K9. (47 sts)

***Row 21 repeated without the photos***

Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right as you normally would.), K9. (47 sts)

Row 22: K9 P6 K32

Row 23 (Arms): K31 Bobble 3, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K2, K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), Bobble 3, K8. (45 sts)

Row 24: K9, P4 K32

Row 25 (Neck): K14, K2tog K5 K2tog, K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left), K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) K9. (41 sts)

Row 26: K9 P2 K30

Row 27 (Head): K30 (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row), K9. (47 sts)

Row 28: K9 P8 K30

Row 29: K14, K2tog K3 K2tog, K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9. (43 sts)

Row 30: K9 P6 K28

Row 31 (Ears): K28  K2tog (as you did before) AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). 

K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, 

K9. (41 sts)

***Row 31 repeated without the photos***

Row 31 (Ears): K28  K2tog (as you did before) AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, K9. (41 sts)

Row 32: K across

Row 33: K14, K2tog K1 K2tog, K8, K2tog, K2 K2tog, K8 (37 sts)

♥ Row 34 – 38: Knit across

With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change colours, do so now.)

*Row 39: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 40: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*

Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch this video.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

More of My Stuff on Etsy

You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website

LEFT Hand 

Cast on 34

Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1. 

Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change colours, do so now.)

Row 7 – 12: Knit across

Row 13: K20 Cast on 13 sts. K14. (47 sts)

Row 14: Knit across

Row 15 (Feet): K8 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). K2, Bobble 3 (as before), K35.

Row 16: K35 P4 K8

Row 17 (Belly): K9, (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9, K2tog K9, K2tog. K14. (51 sts)

Row 18: K34 P8 K9

Row 19: K across

Row 20: K34 P8 K9

Row 21: K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9 K2tog K7 K2tog, K14. (47 sts)

Row 22: K32 P6 K9

Row 23 (Arms): K8 Bobble 3, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K2, K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), Bobble 3, K31. (45 sts)

Row 24: K32, P4 K9

Row 25 (Neck): K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left), K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) K9, K2tog K5 K2tog, K14. (41 sts)

Row 26: K30 P2 K9

Row 27 (Head): K9 (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row), K30. (47 sts)

Row 28: K30 P8 K9

Row 29: K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9, K2tog K3 K2tog, K14. (43 sts)

Row 30: K28 P6 K9

Row 31 (Ears): K9  K2tog AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, K28. (41 sts)

Row 32: K across

Row 33: K8, K2tog, K2 K2tog, K8, K2tog K1 K2tog K14. (37 sts)

♥ Row 34 – 38: Knit across

With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change colours, do so now.)

*Row 39: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 40: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*

Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.

Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.

Make the Thumb

With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on.

With the WRONG side facing

Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.

Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.

Row 3: Repeat row 1

Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.

Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.

Hints and Tips

While not necessary, I like to pull the arms closer together for a thinner neck and more noticeable belly. From the back, pass your needle to the front. Pass the yarn over the noticeable decrease stitch beside the arm and under the chest. Go up on the other side of the chest, catch the decrease stitch and pass through the hole next to the arm. Pull together as tight as you like. I leave a bit of slackness.

If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥ If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.

If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are done with the K1 P2 ribbing sections.

You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

K3tog – knit 3 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. 

Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

The inspiration of this pattern came from my previous Spider Fingerless Gloves pattern. I really like incorporating the design into the final wearable piece. I’ve always liked the leaf pattern and this seemed to be a great way to use it.

There isn’t a full-on how to for this pattern, by I have included helpful videos to show you how to do certain parts of the pattern. These will certainly help with any of the tricker parts like knitting the wrong side of the YO K1 YO and drawing the edges of the leaves together to a point. Click the link and it will open and automatically play the YouTube video.

If you would like to purchase a copy of this pattern that you can download and print, I have a number of options for you. You can buy the pattern on this website – Autumn Leaf Half Gloves – with How-to VIDEOS, Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts, Creative Fabrica, Google Books and Amazon. Amazon has the book in both paperback and Kindle formats.

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Gauge

This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles in stockinette.

2” (5 cm) – 10 sts

2” (5 cm) – 15 rows

Things You Need

Knitting needles:

• Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
• Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
• Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

Worsted weight yarn – any standard size ball will do

Cable Needle – There are a number a styles but I prefer the hook version

Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin

Tapestry needle

Sizing

Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the leaves the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.

If you are making the small or large size glove, check the gauge for the size 6 US (4 mm). Adjust to the size of the needles to obtain the correct gauge. If you are making the large size, increase your needle size by a size US (mm). For example, you need to use a size 7 US (4.5 mm) to get the correct gauge, use size 9 US (5.5 mm) knitting needles for the large. If you are making a small, use size 5 US (3.75 mm).

To know what size you should make, you can use the infographic below on how to measure your hand, or the hand of whomever you are making them for.

Abbreviations are at the END of the Pattern

Left Hand

Cast on 34

Row 1: (P1 K2) Repeat to last st. P1

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to last st. K1

♥ Row 3: (P1 TB) Repeat to last st. P1

Row 4: As row 2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 3 times more. (Counts as rows 5-10).

Row 11: P1 P2tog P21 K3 P7 (33 sts)

Row 12: K7 P3 K23

Row 13: P23 K2 C1F P6

Row 14: K6 P1 K1 P2 K23

Row 15: P23 K2 P1 C1F P5

Row 16: K5 P1 K2 P2 K23

Row 17: P22 C1B K1 P2 YO K1 YO P5 (35 sts)

Row 18: K5 P3 K2 P1 K1 P1 K22 (35 sts)

Row 19: P21 C1B P1 K1 P2 (K1 YO) twice K1 P5 (37 sts)

Row 20: K5 P5 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (37 sts)

Row 21: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P5 (39 sts)

Row 22: K5 P7 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (39 sts)

Row 23: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K3 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) P5 (37 sts)

Row 24: K5 P5 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (37 sts)

Row 25: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P5 (35 sts)

Row 26: K5 P3 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (35 sts)

Row 27: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P6 YO K1 YO P2 K1 P2 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P5 ( 37 sts)

Row 28: K8 P1 K2 P3 K23 (37 sts)

Row 29: P23 (K1 YO) twice. K1 P2 K1 P8 (39 sts)

Row 30: K8 P1 K2 P5 K6 M1 K3 M1 K14 (41 sts)

Row 31: P25 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P2 K1 P8 (43 sts)

Row 32: K8 P1 K2 P7 K25 (43 sts)

Row 33: P14 PM1 P5 PM1 P6 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right ) P2 C1F P7 (43 sts)

Row 34: K7 P1 K3 P5 K27 (43 sts)

Row 35: P27 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left ) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P3 K1 P7 (41 sts)

Row 36: K7 P1 K3 P3 K6 M1 K7 M1 K14 (43 sts)

Row 37: P29 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P3 YO K1 YO P7 (43 sts)

Row 38: K7 P3 K33 (43 sts)

Row 39: P14 PM1 P9 PM1 P10 (K1 YO) twice K1 P7 (47 sts)

Row 40: K7 P5 K35 (47 sts)

Row 41: P35 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P7 (49 sts)

Row 42: K7 P7 K10 M1 K11 M1 K14 (51 sts)

Row 43: P37 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P7 (49 sts)

Row 44: K7 P5 K37 (49 sts)

Row 45: P14 Pass the next 13 sts of the thumb gusset onto a stitch holder. P10 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P7 (34 sts)

Row 46: K7 P3 K24 (34 sts)

Row 47: P24 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P7 (32 sts)

Row 48: K across

Row 49: P across

Row 50: K across

Row 51: P2tog (K2 P1) to the end of the row

☺Row 52: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1

Row 53: (P1 TB) Repeat to the last st. P1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once.

Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.

Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder with the WRONG side facing you. (See hints and tips for more info).

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Cast off on the RIGHT side.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

Right Hand

Cast on 34

Row 1: (P1 K2) Repeat to last st. P1

Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to last st. K1

♥ Row 3: (P1 TB) Repeat to last st. P1

Row 4: As row 2 ♥ Repeat form ♥ to ♥ 3 times more. (Counts as rows 5-10).

Row 11: P7 K3 P21 P2tog P1 (33 sts)

Row 12: K23 P3 K7

Row 13: P6 C1B K2 P23

Row 14: K23 P2 K1 P1 K6

Row 15: P5 C1B P1 K2 P23

Row 16: K23 P2 K2 P1 K5 

Row 17: P5 YO K1 YO P2 K1 C1F P22 (35 sts)

Row 18: K22 P1 K1 P1 K2 P3 K5 (35 sts)

Row 19: P5 (K1 YO) twice K1 P2 K1 P1 C1F P21 (37 sts)

Row 20: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P5 K5 (37 sts)

Row 21: P5 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (39 sts)

Row 22: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P7 K5 (39 sts)

Row 23: P5 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left). K3 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (37 sts)

Row 24: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P5 K5 (37 sts)

Row 25: P5 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (35 sts)

Row 26: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P3 K5 (35 sts)

Row 27: P5 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P2 K1 P2 YO K1 YO P6 PM1 P1 PM1 P14 ( 37 sts)

Row 28: K23 P3 K2 P1 K8 (37 sts)

Row 29: P8 K1 P2 (K1 YO) twice. K1 P23 (39 sts)

Row 30: K14 M1 K3 M1 K6 P5 K2 P1 K8 (41 sts)

Row 31: P8 K1 P2 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P25 (43 sts)

Row 32: K25 P7 K2 P1 K8 (43 sts)

Row 33: P7 C1B P2 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P6 PM1 P5 PM1 P14 (43 sts)

Row 34: K27 P5 K3 P1 K7 (43 sts)

Row 35: P7 K1 P3 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P27 (41 sts)

Row 36: K14 M1 K7 M1 K6 P3 K3 P1 K7 (43 sts)

Row 37: P7 YO K1 YO P3 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P29 (43 sts)

Row 38: K33 P3 K7 (43 sts)

Row 39: P7 (K1 YO) twice K1 P10 PM1 P9 PM1 P14 (47 sts)

Row 40: K35 P5 K7 (47 sts)

Row 41: P7 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P35 (49 sts)

Row 42: K14 M1 K11 M1 K10 P7 K7 (51 sts)

Row 43: P7 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P37 (49 sts)

Row 44: K37 P5 K7 (49 sts)

Row 45: P7 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P10 Pass the next 13 sts of the thumb gusset onto a stitch holder. P14 (34 sts)

Row 46: K24 P3 K7 (34 sts)

Row 47: P7 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P24 (32 sts)

Row 48: K across

Row 49: P across

Row 50: K across

Row 51: P2tog (K2 P1) to the end of the row

☺Row 52: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1

Row 53: (P1 TB) Repeat to the last st. P1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once.

Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.

Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder with the WRONG side facing you. (See hints and tips for more info).

Row 1: Knit across

Row 2: Purl across

Row 3: Knit across

Cast off on the RIGHT side.

Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.

Hints and Tips

Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.

Everything between and including the PM1 and M1 stitches form the thumb gusset.

When you are making the thumb, you MUST pick up the stitches from the wrong side. Pass the stitches from the stitch holder to the knitting needle then onto the other knitting needle so the wrong side facing you. If you don’t do the second pass, you’ll get a weird line.

Leave the cast off end of the finger cuff and the thumb longer so you can use it to sew up the seam along the side of the gloves and seam of the thumb, respectively.

The striped ombre versions of the gloves are done with Loops & Threads “Facets” yarn you can find at Michaels (as of the printing of this pattern). It’s thin for a worsted weight yarn and I needed to use a 4.5 mm set of dpn’s to get the sizing correct. Make sure to check your gauge and adjust accordingly!

Please be aware that these gloves look like the leaves are off center when they’re not being worn. I actually redesigned them so the motif would be 2 stitches over because when they were on, they looked too close to the thumb. Sometimes designs are weird and the center of the design visually isn’t the middle of the design mathematically or functionally. Ahhh! The joys of art…

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

YO – yarn over

TB – Pick up the stitch with your stitch holder. Hold the stitch at the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the stitch holder.

C1B – Cable 1 back. Pick up next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the BACK of your work. Knit the next stitch. Purl the stitch on the cable needle. This was for the Spider gloves but is the same for this pattern.

C1F – Cable 1 forward. Pick up the next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the FRONT of your work. Purl the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. This was for the Spider gloves but is the same for this pattern.

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how. 

PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would. Watch this video to see how. 

K2tog – How you do this depends where you are in the pattern. If you are making the right side of the leaf, knit right to left. If you are making the left side of the leaf, knit left to right. If you do it this way you eliminate the twisting of the stitch and the edge of the leaf flows evenly.

The k2tog are given for RIGHT handed knitters. If you are knitting left to right as a LEFT handed knitter, reverse the order that you knit the stitches together. K2tog from left to right then pick up, twist, knit from right to left.

Sl St – slip the stitch

PSSO – pass the slipped stitch over.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or duplicate this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.