Welcome to the next book in the series of my collection of knitting patterns! If you enjoyed my Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitts to Knit, I’m sure you’ll enjoy this one just as much.
This delightful collection of practical yet stylish fingerless glove designs is sure to inspire knitters of all skill levels. Each pattern is knit flat on two straight needles, making them accessible even to those who may be new to knitting or prefer simpler techniques. Whether you’re a beginner eager to complete your first project or an intermediate knitter looking to expand your repertoire with charming new details, this collection offers something for everyone.
The designs range from playful, whimsical animals that add a touch of fun to your wardrobe, to elegant leaves and decorative motifs that showcase a refined sense of style. Each pattern is thoughtfully crafted with the perfect balance of simplicity and creativity, ensuring that the process is as enjoyable as the result.
As you work through the patterns, you’ll find yourself fully supported by helpful step-by-step videos and detailed photos, making even the trickiest techniques feel approachable. With these resources, you’ll gain confidence in your knitting skills and be able to complete each glove with pride. This collection will not only add a unique flair to your knitting projects but will also fill your crafting time with joy and satisfaction.
There are a number of options available to make the fingerless gloves. All the fingerless gloves patterns are free to read on this website. You can use this link – Fingerless Glove and Mitten Patterns to see all of them. I listed them all individually at the end of this post if you are looking for a specific one. 😁
Another option is to purchase and print the pattern yourself. If you are ok with printing the 104 page document, you can buy it from this website – Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit or from my Etsy shop. You can click or tap either of those links to see the collection.
If you would prefer to have the paperback version fully printed, bound and sent directly to your door, you can order the book online from Amazon. Be sure to click on your country so shipping will be as low as possible. If you are an Amazon Prime Member, the shipping is free! If you have a Kindle, the cheaper, digital version is available at the same links.
I understand that not everyone is in the financial position to purchase patterns, and that’s ok. That’s why I offer them for free; to enable anyone to use my work and be able to enjoy and even profit from it. That’s why while I give permission for everyone to sell what they make from my patterns, I ask that you respect the patterns themselves. Do NOT make illegal copies of them.
If you know someone who wants to use the patterns, send them the link so they can read the pattern online themselves. It helps me VERY much when you do this. More people on the website tell search engines that what is on my site is valuable and people like it. This makes it more likely that Google, Bing, Yahoo, etc will suggests my patterns when people do a search online.
To make sharing the patterns even easier, there are floating share buttons along the side of this and every page of the website. All you need to do is click it to share it. You can also use these share buttons to share this page.
Now that we’re through all that, here is the list of individual patterns that you can read online for free.
I’m thrilled to share my latest knitting pattern for fingerless mitts, and yes, my love for these cozy accessories shows no sign of stopping! This time around, I’ve added a twist—quite literally—with a unique cable pattern that elegantly winds its way down the back of the hand. It’s a design element that adds both texture and visual interest, making these mitts a true standout piece.
If you’re someone who’s mastered the basics and is looking to elevate your knitting game, this pattern is the perfect next step. It’s designed to bridge the gap between a beginner and an experienced knitter. And if cabling is new to you, don’t worry—this is the ideal project to dive in and learn something new! I’ve made sure to include video tutorials in the Abbreviations section to guide you through the cabling process, so you’ll have all the support you need.
But that’s not all! I’ve also added links to help you with any other potentially tricky parts of the pattern, like increasing for the thumb gusset. I want to ensure you feel confident and supported every step of the way. So, grab your needles, and let’s knit something beautiful together!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Will Need
Worsted weight yarn (less than 100 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves as written. I know because I weighed them). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.
Set of single pointed needles (see note on sizing)
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seams and work in ends
Cable needle
Sizing
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) single pointed needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) single pointed needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Left Hand
Cast on 36
Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1
Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K15 P1 K16 P1 K3
✰ Row 8: P3 K1 P16 K1 P15
❀ Row 9: K15 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8
Row 11: K15 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Row 12: Repeat ✰Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.
Next row: K12 M1 K M1 K2 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (38 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P17
Next row: K17 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 PM1 P PM1 P13 (40 sts)
Next row: K19 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P19
Next row: K14 M1 K M1 K4 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (42 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P21
Next row: K21 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P5 PM1 P PM1 P15 (44 sts)
Next row: K23 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P23
Next row: K16 M1 K M1 K6 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (46 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P25
Next row: K25 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P7 PM1 P PM1 P17 (48 sts)
Next row: K27 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P27
Next row: K12 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K2 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (35 sts)
❤ Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P14
Next row: K14 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤
✪ Next row: ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 3 sts P2 K1
Next row: P1 ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 2 sts. K2 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.
Cast off
Thumb
Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,
Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1
Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K3 P1 K16 P1 K15
✰ Row 8: P15 K1 P16 K1 P3
❀ Row 9: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K15
Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8
Row 11: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K15
Row 12: Repeat ✰ Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K2 M1 K M1 K12 (38 sts)
Next row: P17 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K17
Next row: P13 PM1 P PM1 P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 (40 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K19
Next row: P19 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K4 M1 K M1 K14 (42 sts)
Next row: P21 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K21
Next row: P15 PM1 P PM1 P5 K1 P16 K1 P3 (44 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K23
Next row: P23 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K6 M1 K M1 K16 (46 sts)
Next row: P25 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K25
Next row: P17 PM1 P PM1 P7 K1 P16 K1 P3 (48 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K27
Next row: P27 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K2 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K12 (35 sts)
❤ Next row: P14 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K14
Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤
✪ Next row: K ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 2 sts P2
Next row: ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 3 sts. K2 P1 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.
Cast off
Thumb
Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,
Next row: K across
Next row: P across
Next row: K across
Next row: P across
Cast off
Sew the seams of the thumbs and along the side of each hand. Work in the ends.
Hints and Tips
You can make the gloves as long or as short as you like. I made 3 repeats of the design. You could do less for a shorter version. The grey pair were repeated 7 times to give you an idea of what it looks like when longer.
Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
I want to start this intro off with making everyone aware that this pattern is NOT for beginners. If you are looking for something a little easier or plain I have a couple options that may work better for you. You can try Super Simple Fingerless Gloves – FREE Knitting Pattern or see what all the options are available by going to the Fingerless Mitts and Glove section on the website.
Even though an experienced knitter will be able to make these, I have provided some photos to help with the pattern. I’m assuming you know how to carry yarn behind your work to change colours. It’s not hard to do, but you do need to watch the tension and make sure that it is neither too tight or loose and is consistent.
I really like how this pattern turned out, though it did take some fiddling to figure out how to incorporate the lattice pattern into the gloves. Now that I’ve figured it out, I thinking about other patterns I can add this detail to ☺. Yes, I am thinking slippers!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 10 US (6 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Sizing
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 6 mm (US size 10) knitting needles
8 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
10 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Colours
MC – Main colour. The colour of the cuffs and lattice design
BG – Background colour. The colour the lattice is on. The palm and back of the hand.
HC – Highlight colour. The band at the end of the wrist section and start of the cuff at the fingers
Continue using the colour until stated to change in the pattern.
You can use more colours than the 3 colours listed. You can use one colour and made tone on tone fingerless mitts. It’s up to you.
Right Hand
Cast on 33 sts
Row 1: With MC K across
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Carry yarn behind your work for row 23 (saves an end to work in)
Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)
Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at the end of row 22.
Row 23: *With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. With BG K13. Break BG colour.
Row 24: Pass next 13 sts onto working needle. With MC YF, Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat to the end of the row. (Don’t work this stitch. Let yarn hang).
Row 25: Join BG K across.
Row 26: P across.
☼ ♣ Row 27: With MC K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times more. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn. (see Abbreviations for photos to LK).
♦ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise *YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise
Row 29: With BG K across
Row 30: P across
♥ Row 31: With MC *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
■ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise * YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise, * Repeat from * to * 3 times more.
Row 33: With BG K across
Row 34: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.
Row 35: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 36: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 37: With BG K26 M1 K M1 K11 (40 sts)
Row 38: P across
Row 39: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 40: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 41: With BG K across
Row 42: P12 PM1 P PM1 P27 (42 sts)
Row 43: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 44: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 45: With BG K across
Row 46: P across
Row 47: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 48: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 49: With BG K28 M1 K M1 K13 (44 sts)
Row 50: P across
Row 51: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 52: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 53: With BG K across
Row 54: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P29 (46 sts)
Row 55: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 56: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 57: With BG K across
Row 58: P across
Row 59: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 60: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 61: With BG K30 M1 K1 M1 K15 (48 sts)
Row 62: P across
Row 63: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 64: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 65: With BG K across
Row 66: P16 PM1 P PM1 P31 (50 sts)
Row 67: Repeat ♣ Row 27
Row 68: Repeat ♦ Row 28
Row 69: With BG K across
Row 70: P across
Row 71: Repeat ♥ Row 31
Row 72: Repeat ■ Row 32
Row 73: With BG K26 Pass next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K11 (37 sts)
Row 74: P across. Break BG yarn
Row 75: Repeat ♣ Row 27. Break MC yarn. Pass the 25 sts just worked onto the other needle with 12 unworked stitches.
Row 76: With HC K4 * K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more.K2tog K4 (33 sts)
Row 77-79: Knit across
Row 80: With MC K across
Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 82: Repeat row 80
Row 83: Repeat row 81
Cast off.
Make Thumb
Transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle.
☺ Row 1: With MC K across
♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K
Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1
Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2
Cast off
Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.
Row 2: P across. Repeat row 1 and 2 for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. Repeat rows 9 and 10 for a total of 10 rows. Break yarn.
Row 19: With HC K5 *M1 K6* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. M1 K4 (38 sts. This count is constant until you start making the thumb gusset. Stitch counts are given for the increases.)
Row 20 – 22: K across. Break yarn at end of row 22.
Row 23: With BG K13.*With MC K. With BG K5* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. With MC K. Break BG colour.
Row 24: With MC and YF Sl st as if to purl. *YB Sl 5sts as if to purl, YF Sl st as if to purl,* repeat from * to * 3 times more. YF. Pass next 13 sts onto working needle.
Row 25: Join BG K across.
Row 26: P across
۞ §Row 27: With BG K13. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (see Hints and Tips andAbbreviations for photos to cross yarn and LK respectively).
۩ Row 28: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise . Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
◊ Row 29: With BG K25 over the 25 sts from previous row.
Row 30: P across.
ʘRow 31: With BG K13 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (40 sts)
▲ Row 32: With MC Sl st purl-wise *YB Sl 5sts purl-wise, YF Sl st purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked.
Row 33: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 34: P across. ۞ Repeat from ۞ to ۞ one more time. If you would like a longer length between the cuff and wrist, do more repeats.
Row 35: With BG K11 M1 K M1 K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1 Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (40 sts)
Row 36: Repeat ۩ Row 28.
Row 37: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 38: P across
Row 39: With BG K15 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 40: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 41: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 42: P27 PM1 P PM1 P12. (42 sts)
Row 43: With BG K17. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 44: With MC YF Sl st. YB Sl 2sts purl-wise * YF Sl st purl-wise, YB Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. YF Sl st purl-wise YB Sl 2sts purl-wise YF Sl st purl-wise. Leave remaining sts unworked. Turn.
Row 45: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 46: P across
Row 47: With BG K13 M1 K M1 K3 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK. (44 sts)
Row 48: Repeat ▲ row 32
Row 49: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 50: P across
Row 51: With BG K19. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 52: Repeat ۩ Row 28
Row 53: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 54: P29 PM1 P PM1 P14 (46 sts)
Row 55: With BG K21 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 56: Repeat ▲ row 32
Row 57: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 58: P across.
Row 59: With BG K15 M1 K M1 K5. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. (48 sts)
Row 60: Repeat ۩ Row 28
Row 61: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 62: P across
Row 63: With BG K23 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts purl-wise* Repeat from * to * 3 times more. LK.
Row 64: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 65: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 66: P31 PM1 P PM1 P16 (50 sts)
Row 67: With BG K25. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st.
Row 68: Repeat ۩ row 28
Row 69: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 70: P across
Row 71: With BG K11. Pass the next 13 sts onto a st holder K1 With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 3 more times. LK. (37 sts)
Row 72: Repeat ▲ Row 32
Row 73: Repeat ◊ row 29
Row 74: P across
Row 75: With BG K12 Break BG colour yarn. With MC cross yarn under BG yarn then K1. Keep YB for this row. Sl 2sts as if to purl *LK, Sl 5sts as if to purl* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. LK, Sl 2sts purl-wise K next st. Break MC. Pass ALL of the sts just worked onto the non-working needle.
Where the needle point is when done the row.
Where the needle point needs to be at the start of the row
Row 76: With HC K4 *K2tog K7* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K2tog. K4 (33 sts)
Row 77-79: Knit across. Break yarn.
Row 80:With MC K across
Row 81: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K
Row 82: Repeat row 80
Row 83: Repeat row 81
Cast off.
Make Thumb
transfer the 13 stitches on the stitch holder, back onto your knitting needle.
☺ Row 1: With MC K to the last st. K
♪ Row 2: *K P2* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 3: Repeat ☺ Row 1
Row 4: Repeat ♪ Row 2
Cast off
Sew seams along the thumb and the side of the gloves.
Hints and Tips
Don’t pull your yarn tight when pulling the yarn across the back of your work. Give enough slack to let the stitches stretch as they should and NOT bunch up. Not doing so will make the gauge significantly smaller and the glove won’t fit.
The lattice pattern is worked when the WRONG side is facing you.
The palm of the hand is plain. FYI I tried to make the lattice pattern all over the mitt. It looked and felt weird and had NO stretch.
You don’t need to add the rolled edge. Rows 1-8 create the roll. You can start with the ribbing at Row 9.
If you want to have a longer version of the glove than what is written, you may need to add more sts to the 13 st section so it will fit around the forearm. There isn’t a lot of stretch to allow for the wide part of the upper forearm.
Crossing over the yarn is straight forward. It needs to look like this or you will get odd shaped stitches.
If you are a left handed knitter, the crossing over of the yarn may need to be done on the right hand instead of the left. I’m not left handed, but logic would dictate things are reversed. In light of you being left handed, I’m assuming this isn’t the first time you’ve run across this issue.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
YF – pull the yarn to the FRONT of your work
YB – pull the yarn to the BACK of your work
Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle without working the stitch.
LK – loop knit. Pick up the loop running across between the sts. Knit this and the next st on the needle.
The loop running between sts
Pick up the loop
Knit the next st.
Knit the st and loop and drop the st from the non-working needle as you normally would.
The loops on the edge are slightly harder to see but done the same way.
Yarn is crossed. Loop between the edge and the st picked up.
Knitting the loop and next st nearly finished.
The loop between the st and the edge is a little harder to see.
Pick up the loop…
…and the last st on the non-working needle. Work this as you did the others.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1
K2tog – knit 2 stitches together.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
Once again, I’m back to one of my favourite, smaller projects to knit: fingerless gloves! I’ve designed a number of different ones over the years with some of my most popular being the Owl Gloves, Spider Fingerless Gloves, Hippo Gloves and the Autumn Leaves Fingerless Gloves, to name a few. Like this pattern, they too are knit flat on straight needles. Over the years I’ve found that most people prefer this to those knit in the round, though I do have those too ☺
Like the other patterns, and to keep the design on the back of the hand centered, I change the size of the needles to make them larger or smaller. There’s more about that in the Gauge section with a quick reference info graphic to help you with the sizing. These are designed for adult hands,but if you would like them even smaller for children, I recommend using thinner yarn and needles. I can’t help with what the final sizing would be unfortunately. It’ll be a guess on your part unless you know how to do the math.
If you need help with any of the techniques used in the pattern, there are links and playable videos in the Abbreviations section after the pattern. All the videos that will show you exactly how to do it.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Zigzag Elegance Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)
Knitting needles – described below in sizing and gauge
Stitch Holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends
Sizing and Gauge
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the spider consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off. Most knitting is tbh.
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4)
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6)
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8)
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
All use stockinette for gauge.
Right Hand
Cast on 35
♠ Row 1: * K2 P1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 2: * P2 K1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: P across
♦Row 11: K2 [K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO] K18 (33 sts) The pattern between the [ and ] make up the pattern up the back of the hand on the RIGHT side.
Row 12: P22 YO P6 YO P5 ♦ (35 sts) Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 7 more times (You can repeat these 2 rows as more than 7 times if you want longer gloves.)
Row 27: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO K3 M1 K1 M1 K14 (35 sts)
Row 28: P24 YO P6 YO P5 (37 sts)
Row 29: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise. K1 PSSO K20 (35 sts)
Row 30: P14 PM1 P3 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (39 sts)
Row 31: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K22 (37 sts)
Row 32: P26 YO P6 YO P5 (39 sts)
Row 33: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3 M1 K5 M1 K14 (39 sts)
Row 34: P28 YO P6 YO P5 (41 sts)
Row 35: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K24 (39 sts)
Row 36: P14 PM1 P7 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (43 sts)
Row 37: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K26 (41 sts)
Row 38: P30 YO P6 YO P5 (43 sts)
Row 39: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3 M1 K9 M1 K14 (43 sts)
Row 40: P32 YO P6 YO P5 (45 sts)
Row 41: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K28 (43 sts)
Row 42: P14 PM1 P11 PM1 P7 YO P6 YO P5 (47 sts)
Row 43: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K30 (45 sts)
Row 44: P34 YO P6 YO P5 (47 sts)
Row 45: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K3. Transfer the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K14 (32 sts)
Row 46: P21 YO P6 YO P5 (34 sts)
Row 47: K2 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K17 (32 sts)
Row 48: P21 YO P6 YO P5 (34 sts)
Row 49: K across
Row 50: * K1 P2 * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1
Row 51: P1 * K2 P1 * Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 52: as row 50
Row 53: as row 51
Cast off
Making the Thumb
Transfer the the sts on the st holder back to the knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing:
♠ Row 1: * K2 P1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. K2
Row 2: * P2 K1 * repeat from * to * to the last 2 sts. P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows.
Row 9: K across
Row 10: P across
♦Row 11: K18 [K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO] K2 (33 sts) The pattern between the [ and ] make up the pattern up the back of the hand on the RIGHT side.
Row 12: P6YO P6 YO P21 ♦ (35 sts) Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 7 more times (You can repeat these 2 rows as more than 7 times if you want longer gloves.)
Row 27: K14 M1 K1 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (35 sts)
Row 28: P6 YO P6 YO P23 (37 sts)
Row 29: K20 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (35 sts)
Row 30: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P3 PM1 P14 (39 sts)
Row 31: K22 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (37 sts)
Row 32: P6 YO P6 YO P25 (39 sts)
Row 33: K14 M1 K5 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO] K2 (39 sts)
Row 34: P6 YO P6 YO P27 (41 sts)
Row 35: K24 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (39 sts)
Row 36: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P7 PM1 P14 (43 sts)
Row 37: K26 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (41 sts)
Row 38: P6 YO P6 YO P29 (43 sts)
Row 39: K14 M1 K9 M1 K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (43 sts)
Row 40: P6 YO P6 YO P31 (45 sts)
Row 41: K28 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (43 sts)
Row 42: P6 YO P6 YO P6 PM1 P11 PM1 P14 (47 sts)
Row 43: K30 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (45 sts)
Row 44: P6 YO P6 YO P33 (47 sts)
Row 45: K14 Transfer the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K3 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (32 sts)
Row 46: P6 YO P6 YO P20 (34 sts)
Row 47: K17 K2tog K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K2tog PSSO K2 YO K2 Sl st knit-wise K1 PSSO K2 (32 sts)
Row 48: P6 YO P6 YO P20 (34 sts)
Row 49: K across
Row 50: * K1 P2 * Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1
Row 51: P1 * K2 P1 * Repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 52: as row 50
Row 53: as row 51
Cast off
Making the Thumb
Transfer the the sts on the st holder back to the knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing:
Row 1: K across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: K across
Cast off
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
st – stitch
sts – stitches
YO – Yarn over. Pull the yarn FORWARD under your working needle when knitting and knit the next stitch OR pull the yarn BACK under your working needle for a purl and purl the next stitch. Increases one stitch in your work and makes a hole.
How to YO the KNITTING
How to YO when PURLING
K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
Sl st – slip the stitch onto your working needle. Do NOT knit the stitch.
PSSO – on your working needle, pass the slipped stitch over the stitch just worked. It may be a knit or a K2tog. This and Sl st are a combo that are often done together.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
Hints and Tips
If you prefer to knit the last two stitches together on the left side of the design instead of Sl st and PSSO, make sure that you twist the stitch and put it back on your non-working needle. I did this for the autumn leaf gloves I mentioned earlier. You can watch how I do it here – Motif Edges – Autumn Leaf Half Gloves
I like using ombre or colour transitioning yarns for these. Solid colours also work well. Lighter colours tend to be better as it can be hard to discern the pattern with dark colours like black, brown, purple and such. Variegated colours would probably make the pattern indistinguishable.
You can make the cuff at the fingers and wrist different colours for a little extra flair.
Make the fingerless mittens as long as you like. I made an additional 7 repeats of the design, but you could do more or less. If you do more you should probably cast on more stitches as the arm get thicker towards the elbow, then decrease down to the number of stitches as written in the instructions.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
These colourful, cuffed owl fingerless mitts are made to match my very popular Owl Beanieand Owl Scarf, also knit flat on two needles. You can click the links if you would like to make either one; or both 😉. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page.
I’ve made these owl wrist warmers similar to my original knit flat owl half gloves but with this version, they are knit from the fingers to the wrist cuff. The owls are made from feet to head, matching the aforementioned hat and scarf. There is a slight difference with the appearance of the owls when made from head to feet and I couldn’t live with that. Once you see it you can’t not see it, if you know what I mean.
And since I was doing a redesign, I figured I should make the cuffs match. So I did. I did two versions of the glove. One with a rolled cuff edge (blue and brown) and one without (green). It is clearly marked in the pattern where to stop knitting and cast off depending on the edging you want. And speaking of the final appearance of the granny gloves, there is no reason that these gloves have to match anything. You can also knit them in a single colour. It really is up to you and what look you are after.
To make the thumb gusset blend as much as possible and match on both sides of the thumb, there are different ways to knit and purl the stitches together. It changes whether it is on the left or the right side of the thumb. It is noted how to knit and purl the stitches in the pattern. I’ve also added links to a helpful how-to video to show you how. You don’t have to make the stitches the way I did, but it gives a much better overall look. There’s more about this in the Hints and Tips section.
If casting on the 13 stitches for the thumb or picking up stitches is confusing for you, there is also a video to help you with that too. The link is after the Hints and Tips section.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. The Amazon link goes to the US store. If ordering the paperback, make sure you pick the region where you live!
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m) will make the gloves in one colour. Any colour combinations of your choosing will work.
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
4 – 8 mm flat back cabochons or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, The gloves will stretch a bit as the stitches relax.
Right Hand
Cast on 34 sts
◊ Row 1: K across
Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)
Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)
Row 12: P5 K1 P8 K1 P19
Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts K6 C4B C4F K6
If you are uncertain how to make the C4B or C4F, you can either click the link or watch the videos below:
Row 14: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P32
Row 15: K35 P4 K8
Row 16: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P14
Row 19: K14 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K8 P4 K8
This is the same video as above but automatically starts at the how to K2tog section.
Row 20: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P28
Row 21: K31 P4 K8
Row 22: P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P14.
Row 23: K27 C4B C4F K6
Row 24: P5 K1 P8 K1 P26
Row 25: K14 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K20
Row 26: P5 K1 P8 K1 P24
Row 27: K across
Row 28: P5 K1 P8 K1 P5 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P14
Row 29: K across
Row 30: P5 K1 P8 K1 P22
Row 31: K14 K3tog (from left to right) K6 C4B C4F K6
Row 32: P5 K1 P8 K1 P20
(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)
Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)
Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.
☺ Row39: K across
Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.
Continue with the rest of the pattern if you would like a rolled edge to match the edging of the owl beanie hat. If you don’t like the rolled edge, cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
◘ Row 49: K across
Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.
Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
Thumb
With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.
Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)
Row 5:♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Row 6: K across
Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.
Row 2: *K1 P2* Repeat from * to * to the last st. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ for a total of 6 rows. (Change colour at the START of row 7 if desired.)
Row 7 – 11: K across (Change colour at the START of row 11 if desired.)
Row 12: P19 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 13: K6 C4B C4F K6 Cast on 13 sts K14
Row 14: P32 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 15: K8 P4 K35
Row 16: P14 P2tog (Slip the next st onto your working needle. Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Pass the slipped st back onto the non-working needle. Purl the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). P9 P2tog (Purl these sts together from RIGHT to LEFT – as you normally would). P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 17: K8 P4 K33
Row 18: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 19: K8 P4 K8 K2tog (Knit the sts together from LEFT to RIGHT). K7 K2tog (Pick up the next st, twist and place back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT) K14
Row 20: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 21: K8 P4 K31
Row 22: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P5 P2tog (P right to left) P5 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P5
Row 23: K6 C4B C4F K27
Row 24: P26 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 25: K20 K2tog (from left to right) K3 K2tog (as before – pick up next st, twist, knit from right to left). K14
Row 26: P24 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 27: K across
Row 28: P14 P2tog (as before – pass the next st over, pick up and twist next st, pass slipped st back. Purl from left to right) P1 P2tog (P right to left). P5 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 29: K across
Row 30: P22 K1 P8 K1 P5
Row 31: K6 C4B C4F K6 K3tog (from left to right) K14
Row 32: P20 K1 P8 K1 P5
(Change colour at the START of row 33 if desired.)
Row 33 – 37: K across. (Change colour at the START of row 37 if desired.)
Row 38: K2tog. ♠ P2 K1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ to the end of the row.
☺ Row39: K across
Row 40: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ for a total of 10 rows.
Continue with the rest of the pattern if you would like a rolled edge to match the edging of the owl beanie hat. If you don’t like the rolled edge, cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
◘ Row 49: K across
Row 50: P across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ for a total of 8 rows.
Cast off. Leave a longer length of yarn to sew the seam.
Thumb
With the RIGHT side of the glove facing you, pick up the 13 sts you cast on in row 13.
Row 1 – 4: K across (Change colour at the START of row 4 of the thumb if desired.)
Row 5:♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Row 6: K across
Row 7: ♦ K1 P2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to the last st. K1
Cast off. Leave a length of yarn to sew the thumb seam.
Hints and Tips
If you don’t P2tog and K2tog as indicated in the pattern, you’ll end up with one very defined line on one side of the thumb gusset, and a much less refined edge on the other. I tried many combos to make the side of the gusset match. Making the stitches as indicated in the pattern allow for this.
This photo is what the thumb gusset will look like if you knit and purl the stitches without following the instructions.
You don’t need to add the extra garter and ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.
You can use whatever you like for eyes. Buttons will work. I used 8 mm flat back cabochons. They come in a variety of colours and sizes. I looked for more realistic owl eyes but all I could find were ones for taxidermy and they were too big, and expensive. I also recommend gluing them on as sewing will take a bit of time.
Watch the Helpful Thumb Video
If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb The video is for a different fingerless glove style, but is a very similar technique.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
P2tog – purl 2 together
K3tog – knit 3 stitches together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
For this version of my fingerless gloves, I’m doing something different. Instead of starting at the cuff, I’m starting at the fingers and working to the cuff. Why? Because I’m starting to design gloves with 3D animals, characters, figures, designs, etc. Sometimes these figures can only be made from the bottom up and to do this, I needed to design a basic fingerless glove pattern. Because most of the figures are done with stockinette stitches, I wanted the figures to stand out even more. So, I designed the glove to be done with a garter stitch to contrast with the stockinette.
Whew! That was a lot of extra info you probably didn’t want. But now that you know the plan, you can check out my website to see when I start publishing the new gloves. It could be right away. It could be 6 months. We’ll see how it goes… (FYI I already did 😊 You can check out the hippo fingerless gloves by clicking the link – Super Cute Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mitts – FREE Knitting Pattern.
If you would prefer a PDF printable version of the pattern, you can download it for a small fee/donation from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Basic Fingerless Gloves. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy👈🏼 (40% off on Etsy until the end of March). The Kindle and Paperback version is also on Amazon. If a link isn’t working I either haven’t formatted and published it on that retailer, I am waiting for approval, or I forgot to come back and add the link.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons below to do so easily.
Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. The seam runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches.
Things You Need
And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
Size 4 mm (size 6 US) knitting needles (or whatever you require to get the correct gauge).
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
Gauge
In garter stitch
20 rows = 5 cm or 2.5 inches
9 sts = 5 cm or 2.5 inches
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). I don’t usually design extra large gloves, but you’re smart. You can extrapolate from the sizes I’ve given. Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.
RIGHT Hand
Cast on 31 (34, 37, 40)
Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows.
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K12 (14, 16, 18) Cast on 13 (13, 15, 15) sts. K19 (20, 21, 22). Total of 44 (47, 52, 55) sts. Click this link if you need help with casting on.
Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥
Row 34 – 36: Knit across
For the LARGE and X-LARGE
Next row: K0 (0, 16, 18) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 21, 22). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts )
♥ Next 13 rows: K across
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
With the RIGHT side facing
Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat for a total of 10 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch the video below or click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.
Stop here for SMALL and MEDIUM sizes. Skip ahead to the row marked with ♥
Row 34 – 36: Knit across
For the LARGE and X-LARGE
Next row: K0 (0, 21, 22) K2tog K0 (0, 1, 1,) K2tog K0 (0, 16, 18). Total of 34 (37, 40, 43) sts )
♥ Next 13 rows: K across
If you want to switch colours, do so now.
With the RIGHT side facing
Next row: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Next row: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat for a total of 10 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 (13, 16, 16) sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can click this link – Pick up Thumb Stitches.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
Hints and Tips
If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥ If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.
If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are don with the K1 P2 ribbing sections.
You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.
Watch the Helpful Video
If you need help with casting on the thumb or picking up the stitches to finish the thumb, you can watch the quick how-to video on Youtube here – Basic Fingerless Gloves – How to Make the Thumb
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
I originally started this 3D animal adventure with my very popular owl gloves (both knit flat and knit in the round. Those are clickable links btw ☺) It then progressed on to my Spider Gloves and Autumn Leaf Gloves. I wanted to make a cat sitting down on a pair of fingerless mitts. Well, that didn’t turn out as expected but it is how these hippo gloves came to be. I’m still working on the cat gloves…
When making these, I realized that I couldn’t make it in the traditional way by starting at the cuff and working my way to the fingers. I had to go the opposite way to be able to make the arms, legs, body, head and ears. No problem. I rewrote the basic glove pattern. That’s over on Amazon as an exclusive. It will be put on my website eventually so check out this website to see if it’s here at KweenBee.com.
If you are not a fan of ads or following a pattern online, I also have printable PDF version for sale for a small fee. You can purchase and download the pattern from this website – Hippo Fingerless Gloves or Mittens, from my Etsy shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Google Books, CreativeFabrica and the Kindle and paperback version are both available on Amazon. This is linked to the USA version. If you’re from anther country make sure you switch over to where you live.
Anyways, the pattern is written separately for both the right and left hand. Because it is knit flat there is a seam that runs along the outside of the hand and along the pinky finger. The thumb is knitted once the hand is completed with picked up stitches. And also, the hippo will never fall off. It’s made as you make the glove by going back and forth and making formed bobbles. Other than the thumb, this is made in one piece.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
0.27 inch (7mm) wiggle eyes or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the hippo the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.
PLEASE Note!
I’ve added photos in the rows of the pattern that have trickier parts like making the bobbles, belly and decreases. If you are a seasoned knitter and don’t need the photos, I’ve written out the rows again without the photos. Regardless…you only need to knit each row once!
RIGHT Hand
Cast on 34
Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change colours, do so now.)
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts. K20. (47 sts) If you need help with casting on you can watch this video.
Row 14: Knit across
Row 15 (Feet): K35 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn).
3 sts in one st
Turn and purl
Done working the rows
Knit 3 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT
Stitch completed
K2,
Next 2 sts knitted and going to make another bobble.
Bobble 3 (as before),
Knit the 2 sts together in this bobble fromLEFTtoRIGHT
2nd bobble done
K8.
***Row 15 repeated without the photos***
Row 15 (Feet):K35Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOTturn). K2, Bobble 3 (as before), K8.
Row 16: K8 P4 K35
Row 17 (Belly): K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K9. (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches,
Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9. (51 sts)
Row 17 completed (for left hand)
***Row 17 repeated without the photos***
Row 17 (Belly): K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K9. (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row)K9. (51 sts)
Row 18: K9 P8 K34
Row 19: K across
Row 20: K9 P8 K34
Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.)
Insert your needle as if to knit
Place the loop on your working needle and twist
Place the st back on your non-working needle
Knit the 2 sts together from RIGHT to LEFT.
There is a video I made for another pattern that shows how to twist the stitch to get the nice edge.
K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right as you normally would.), K9. (47 sts)
***Row 21 repeated without the photos***
Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right as you normally would.), K9. (47 sts)
Row 22: K9 P6 K32
Row 23 (Arms): K31 Bobble 3, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K2, K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), Bobble 3, K8. (45 sts)
Row 24:K9, P4 K32
Row 25 (Neck): K14, K2tog K5 K2tog, K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left), K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) K9. (41 sts)
Row 26: K9 P2 K30
Row 27 (Head): K30 (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row), K9. (47 sts)
Row 28: K9 P8 K30
Row 29:K14, K2tog K3 K2tog, K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9. (43 sts)
Row 30: K9 P6 K28
Row 31 (Ears): K28 K2tog (as you did before) AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together).
Flip the st and K2tog from RIGHT to LEFT…
…and make 3 sts in the K2tog. Continue to make a Bobble 3 like before.
K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3,
Knit the 2 sts together from LEFT to RIGHT…
…and start the bobble 3 (3 sts in K2tog)
K9. (41 sts)
***Row 31 repeated without the photos***
Row 31 (Ears): K28 K2tog (as you did before) AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, K9. (41 sts)
With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change colours, do so now.)
*Row 39: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 40: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*
Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch this video.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change colours, do so now.)
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K20 Cast on 13 sts. K14. (47 sts)
Row 14: Knit across
Row 15 (Feet): K8 Bobble 3 (K3 into one stitch. by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). K2, Bobble 3 (as before), K35.
Row 16: K35 P4 K8
Row 17 (Belly): K9, (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row) K9, K2tog K9, K2tog. K14. (51 sts)
Row 18: K34 P8 K9
Row 19: K across
Row 20: K34 P8 K9
Row 21: K9, K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9 K2tog K7 K2tog, K14. (47 sts)
Row 22: K32 P6 K9
Row 23 (Arms): K8 Bobble 3, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K2, K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), Bobble 3, K31. (45 sts)
Row 24:K32, P4 K9
Row 25 (Neck): K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left), K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) K9, K2tog K5 K2tog, K14. (41 sts)
Row 26: K30 P2 K9
Row 27 (Head): K9 (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn. Continue to work the remaining stitches of the row), K30. (47 sts)
Row 28: K30 P8 K9
Row 29:K9, K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K4 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.), K9, K2tog K3 K2tog, K14. (43 sts)
Row 30: K28 P6 K9
Row 31 (Ears): K9 K2tog AND make a Bobble 3 (pick up 3 sts by knitting into the front, back and front of the 2 sts you’re knitting together). K2, K2tog AND make Bobble 3, K28. (41 sts)
With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change colours, do so now.)
*Row 39: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 40: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.*
Repeat from * to * for a total of 12 rows.
Cast off. Be sure to follow the P1 K2 pattern to create a nice, finished edge.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off following maintaining the P1 K2 pattern.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
Hints and Tips
While not necessary, I like to pull the arms closer together for a thinner neck and more noticeable belly. From the back, pass your needle to the front. Pass the yarn over the noticeable decrease stitch beside the arm and under the chest. Go up on the other side of the chest, catch the decrease stitch and pass through the hole next to the arm. Pull together as tight as you like. I leave a bit of slackness.
Catch the sts on the sides like this. Use the same colour as your hippo. I used a contrasting colour to showcase the sts.
Pull the yarn snug.
Tie off and work in the ends.
If you would like a longer glove, make more rows than indicated with the row marked with the ♥ If you are making a longer glove, cast the stitches off loosely to allow for more stretch.
If you want the cuff to be a different colour than the rest of the glove, I’ve indicated when to switch colours. The cuff on the fingers, wrist and thumb are done with the K1 P2 ribbing sections.
You don’t need to add the extra ribbing for the thumb. It is a finished edge so it won’t come undone. You may want to do a quick single crochet around to give it a bit of a fancy edging.
Abbreviations
k – knit
p – purl
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
K3tog – knit 3 sts together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly.
Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Made with large needles, these fingerless gloves are super fast to make if you know how to knit in the round. And really, knitting in the round isn’t difficult. But damn, it does look impressive when you’re knitting something using four needles. Not gonna lie. But with saying that, if you would prefer to knit this pattern flat on two needles like my Super Simple Fingerless Gloves or my Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves, please leave a comment at the end of this pattern.
But I digress. There are two styles you can make with this pattern. One has a plain cuff. The other has a double cuff. Both allow for your creativity to shine with yarn choice.
Because they are such a plain design, you can use any variety of colours to make these look awesome. Dare I say my favourite – variegated yarn – did wonders here… I really like how the splotching effect worked for the double cuff and how random the colours appeared when making the plain purl cuff with the beginning purl round.
These also are a great stash buster. You can use up the smaller quantities of yarn from other projects to make stripes. I used the self-striping yarn available at one of the big box craft stores to make my striped version. Be warned though. Not all self-striping yarn will work for this. It needs to be smaller sections of striping than most of the self striping yarn out there. If it makes for a great ombre shall or blanket, the striping is too wide.
As always, if you would prefer a printable paper version of this pattern, you can purchase and download the PDF from all of my usual sites. You can make a purchase from this website here – How to Knit Basic Long Fingerless Gloves. You can also purchase a download from my other online retailers which are LoveCrafts, Etsyand Ravelry. Depending on how long ago I published this, the printable pattern may appear below.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
If you want them longer, you can add more rows between the decrease rows. So instead of 6 rows, you could do 8 or more. If you want them to go further up the arm, cast on more when starting. Multiples of four stitches seem to work out quite nicely and let you maintain the ribbing at the fingers. I do recommend that you decrease stitches down to what’s written for the various sizes. It keeps it from getting sloppy, and dare I say annoying, when they don’t fit properly at the hand.
Knitting 2 together, or the decreases, do form a bit of a seam. To keep this out of view and make it run less noticeably down the inside of the arm, the pattern is designed so the thumb hole is on either side of this seam for the left and right hand.
Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.
Round 21 – 26: Knit around
Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.
Round 28 – 33: Knit around
Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.
Round 35 – 40: Knit around
Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.
Round 42 – 47: Knit around
Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.
Round 49 – 54: Knit around
Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.
Round 56 – 67: Knit around
Round 68: Knit 2 (4,6). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round
Round 69: Knit 2 (4, 6). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).
Round 70 – 74: P1 K1 around.
Cast off.
Right Hand (Plain Cuff)
Cast on 28 (32, 36)
Round 1 – 6: Purl around
Round 7 – 19: Knit around
Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.
Round 21 – 26: Knit around
Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.
Round 28 – 33: Knit around
Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.
Round 35 – 40: Knit around
Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.
Round 42 – 47: Knit around
Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.
Round 49 – 54: Knit around
Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.
Round 56 – 67: Knit around
Round 68: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round
Round 69: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).
Round 70 – 74: K1 P1 around.
Cast off.
Left Hand (Double Cuff)
Cast on 28 (32, 36)
Round 1 – 6: Purl around
Round 7 – 15: Knit around (If you are going to change the colour of the yarn for the purl rows, knit round 15 with the new colour).
Round 16 – 19: Purl around
Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.
Round 21 – 26: Knit around
Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.
Round 28 – 33: Knit around
Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.
Round 35 – 40: Knit around
Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.
Round 42 – 47: Knit around
Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.
Round 49 – 54: Knit around
Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.
Round 56 – 67: Knit around
Round 68: Knit 2 (4,6). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round
Round 69: Knit 2 (4, 6). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).
Round 70 – 74: P1 K1 around.
Cast off.
Right Hand (Double Cuff)
Cast on 28 (32, 36)
Round 1 – 6: Purl around
Round 7 – 15: Knit around (If you are going to change the colour of the yarn for the purl rows, knit round 15 with the new colour).
Round 16 – 19: Purl around
Round 20: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 27 (31, 35) sts.
Round 21 – 26: Knit around
Round 27: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 26 (30, 34) sts.
Round 28 – 33: Knit around
Round 34: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 25 (29, 33) sts.
Round 35 – 40: Knit around
Round 41: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 24 (28, 32) sts.
Round 42 – 47: Knit around
Round 48: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 23 (27, 31) sts.
Round 49 – 54: Knit around
Round 55: K2tog. Knit to the end of the round. You now have 22 (26, 30) sts.
Round 56 – 67: Knit around
Round 68: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast off 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round
Round 69: Knit 17 (19, 21). Cast on 3 sts. Knit to the end of the round. (Thumb hole made).
Round 70 – 74: K1 P1 around.
Cast off.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
K2tog – Knit 2 together
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away anything that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
Are you just learning to knit? Tired of making dishcloths and scarves and want to make something awesome? Here is something that will make you look like a pro when it comes to knitting. A total brag-worthy design that any knitting newbie can make.
I’ve written a bunch of beginner patterns for slippers, but never for fingerless gloves. It was a common request, but for some reason, I never felt compelled to do so. After a bit of false starts and redesigns, I’ve finally come up with a fingerless glove pattern that I am happy with. I’ve kept the seams to a minimum and placed the seam along the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb. If you’re not a fan of seams my other fingerless gloves and mitts knitted on dpn can be found here – Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS, How to Knit Texting Mittens, How to Knit Fingerless Gloves and How to Knit Flip Mitts.
These mitts are knitted completely flat, on 2 needles and are perfect for the beginner. There is use of a stitch holder and picking up those stitches to complete the thumb, but it isn’t difficult. Slide them on to the holder, slide them back on the needle when instructed and knit them like any other set of stitches. If you need help with increasing stitches, there is a video showing how to increase when making the P1 and the M1.I also just made a video showing How to Use a Stitch Holder. You can click those links to watch the how-to videos. They are also embedded at the end of this page. Scroll to the bottom to watch.
I’ve also jazzed up this basic design a bit. If you want to knit owl gloves flat on 2 needles just like this pattern is, You can use this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to read the free knitting pattern online.
I’ve also written the pattern to fit different sizes – small, medium and large. Once again I’ll use the analogy of what fits my hand. I wear a medium rubber glove and the medium size fits my hand perfectly. I wash dishes and scrub my toilets. I wear gloves when I do. If you never wear rubber or latex gloves, this won’t make any sense to you, I guess. I’m only saying this because I have had complaints about my sizing references. I don’t live in a gloveless kind of world but I’m glad some people do. It always amazes me what some “Karens” feel the need to bitch about ? If you want to go to a specific size you can try these links. If I’ve done my code correctly, it should take you to the right point on the webpage:
I’ve made a PDF download for this pattern. I didn’t think it was going to be this long until I wrote it out. I made the decision to write each size and hand out separately to make it even easier for the new knitters out there who want to give this pattern a go. And btw, you can totally do it! To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and from this website – KweenBee.com.
If you would prefer to order a printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United States, United Kingdom, Canada, and Australia. Available in English only.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
I also plan on making a how-to video for this. It will cover the medium size as that’s what most people order when I sell online. I always am hopeful I’ll get the videos done in a timely manner, but they’re always more work than I think they’re going to be. You can check out my other videos in the meantime with this handy link – KweenBee on YouTube – Janis Frank.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clocking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. 👈🏼 That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Gauge
This is important to follow for correct sizing.
2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts
2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows
If You Need Help with the M1 or P1
Scroll down to the end of the page to watch quick how-to videos showing how to do these simple stitches. There’s a video showing how to use a stitch holder too!
Things You Need:
You can click any link below to see what you need.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.
The purple fingerless mitts have 60 rows total between the garter stitch cuff and the start of the thumb gusset (Row 15 – 22). I don’t think I would increase much further than that. The glove itself isn’t very stretchy and won’t fit further up the forearm. Too much bunching may also make the glove push its way further down and off the fingers.
I used some self-striping yarn to make these. Not all striping yarn is created equal. Some of them are designed to stripe for larger projects and don’t really work for smaller projects like this. Though with saying that, you could always cut the yarn and start a new colour where you choose. You will have more ends to deal with, but I have a post that shows you How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. ?? This link will take you right there.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.
How to make one or M1 – Increase between stitches.
PM1- Make one (purl wise). Pick up the stitch as you did for M1, but purl the stitch as you regularly would. You can watch the video below.
And for those of you who are unsure of how to use a stitch holder, I made a quick little video that shows you how to do it without cutting the yarn. It’s a time saver for sure. No one likes working in ends if they can avoid it.
The inspiration of this pattern came from my previous Spider Fingerless Gloves pattern. I really like incorporating the design into the final wearable piece. I’ve always liked the leaf pattern and this seemed to be a great way to use it.
There isn’t a full-on how to for this pattern, by I have included helpful videos to show you how to do certain parts of the pattern. These will certainly help with any of the tricker parts like knitting the wrong side of the YO K1 YO and drawing the edges of the leaves together to a point. Click the link and it will open and automatically play the YouTube video.
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This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles in stockinette.
2” (5 cm) – 10 sts
2” (5 cm) – 15 rows
Things You Need
Knitting needles:
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Worsted weight yarn – any standard size ball will do
Cable Needle – There are a number a styles but I prefer the hook version
Stitch holder – It looks like a big safety pin
Tapestry needle
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the leaves the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
If you are making the small or large size glove, check the gauge for the size 6 US (4 mm). Adjust to the size of the needles to obtain the correct gauge. If you are making the large size, increase your needle size by a size US (mm). For example, you need to use a size 7 US (4.5 mm) to get the correct gauge, use size 9 US (5.5 mm) knitting needles for the large. If you are making a small, use size 5 US (3.75 mm).
To know what size you should make, you can use the infographic below on how to measure your hand, or the hand of whomever you are making them for.
Abbreviations are at the END of the Pattern
Left Hand
Cast on 34
Row 1: (P1 K2) Repeat to last st. P1
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to last st. K1
♥ Row 3: (P1 TB) Repeat to last st. P1
Row 4: As row 2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 3 times more. (Counts as rows 5-10).
Row 21: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P5 (39 sts)
Row 22: K5 P7 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (39 sts)
Row 23: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.) K3 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) P5 (37 sts)
Row 24: K5 P5 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (37 sts)
Row 25: P21 K1 P2 K1 P2 K2tog (like you did before: pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P5 (35 sts)
Row 26: K5 P3 K2 P1 K2 P1 K21 (35 sts)
Row 27: P14 PM1 P1 PM1 P6 YO K1 YO P2 K1 P2 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P5 ( 37 sts)
Row 28: K8 P1 K2 P3 K23 (37 sts)
Row 29: P23 (K1 YO) twice. K1 P2 K1 P8 (39 sts)
Row 30: K8 P1 K2 P5 K6 M1 K3 M1 K14 (41 sts)
Row 31: P25 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P2 K1 P8 (43 sts)
Row 32: K8 P1 K2 P7 K25 (43 sts)
Row 33: P14 PM1 P5 PM1 P6 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right ) P2 C1F P7 (43 sts)
Row 34: K7 P1 K3 P5 K27 (43 sts)
Row 35: P27 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left ) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P3 K1 P7 (41 sts)
Row 36: K7 P1 K3 P3 K6 M1 K7 M1 K14 (43 sts)
Row 37: P29 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P3 YO K1 YO P7 (43 sts)
Row 43: P37 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P7 (49 sts)
Row 44: K7 P5 K37 (49 sts)
Row 45: P14 Pass the next 13 sts of the thumb gusset onto a stitch holder. P10 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P7 (34 sts)
Row 46: K7 P3 K24 (34 sts)
Row 47: P24 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P7 (32 sts)
Row 48: K across
Row 49: P across
Row 50: K across
Row 51: P2tog (K2 P1) to the end of the row
☺Row 52: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1
Row 53: (P1 TB) Repeat to the last st. P1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once.
Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.
Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder with the WRONG side facing you. (See hints and tips for more info).
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Cast off on the RIGHT side.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Row 21: P5 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (39 sts)
Row 22: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P7 K5 (39 sts)
Row 23: P5 K2tog (When making this stitch, pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left). K3 K2tog (knit the stitches together from left to right.) P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (37 sts)
Row 24: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P5 K5 (37 sts)
Row 25: P5 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P2 K1 P2 K1 P21 (35 sts)
Row 26: K21 P1 K2 P1 K2 P3 K5 (35 sts)
Row 27: P5 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P2 K1 P2 YO K1 YO P6 PM1 P1 PM1 P14 ( 37 sts)
Row 28: K23 P3 K2 P1 K8 (37 sts)
Row 29: P8 K1 P2 (K1 YO) twice. K1 P23 (39 sts)
Row 30: K14 M1 K3 M1 K6 P5 K2 P1 K8 (41 sts)
Row 31: P8 K1 P2 K2 YO K1 YO K2 P25 (43 sts)
Row 32: K25 P7 K2 P1 K8 (43 sts)
Row 33: P7 C1B P2 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P6 PM1 P5 PM1 P14 (43 sts)
Row 34: K27 P5 K3 P1 K7 (43 sts)
Row 35: P7 K1 P3 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P27 (41 sts)
Row 36: K14 M1 K7 M1 K6 P3 K3 P1 K7 (43 sts)
Row 37: P7 YO K1 YO P3 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P29 (43 sts)
Row 43: P7 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K3 K2tog (knit left to right) P37 (49 sts)
Row 44: K37 P5 K7 (49 sts)
Row 45: P7 K2tog (pick up, twist, knit right to left) K1 K2tog (knit left to right) P10 Pass the next 13 sts of the thumb gusset onto a stitch holder. P14 (34 sts)
Row 46: K24 P3 K7 (34 sts)
Row 47: P7 Sl St (as if to knit) K2tog (knit left to right) PSSO P24 (32 sts)
Row 48: K across
Row 49: P across
Row 50: K across
Row 51: P2tog (K2 P1) to the end of the row
☺Row 52: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1
Row 53: (P1 TB) Repeat to the last st. P1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once.
Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.
Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder with the WRONG side facing you. (See hints and tips for more info).
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Cast off on the RIGHT side.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.
Everything between and including the PM1 and M1 stitches form the thumb gusset.
When you are making the thumb, you MUST pick up the stitches from the wrong side. Pass the stitches from the stitch holder to the knitting needle then onto the other knitting needle so the wrong side facing you. If you don’t do the second pass, you’ll get a weird line.
Leave the cast off end of the finger cuff and the thumb longer so you can use it to sew up the seam along the side of the gloves and seam of the thumb, respectively.
The striped ombre versions of the gloves are done with Loops & Threads “Facets” yarn you can find at Michaels (as of the printing of this pattern). It’s thin for a worsted weight yarn and I needed to use a 4.5 mm set of dpn’s to get the sizing correct. Make sure to check your gauge and adjust accordingly!
Please be aware that these gloves look like the leaves are off center when they’re not being worn. I actually redesigned them so the motif would be 2 stitches over because when they were on, they looked too close to the thumb. Sometimes designs are weird and the center of the design visually isn’t the middle of the design mathematically or functionally. Ahhh! The joys of art…
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
YO – yarn over
TB – Pick up the stitch with your stitch holder. Hold the stitch at the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the stitch holder.
C1B – Cable 1 back. Pick up next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the BACK of your work. Knit the next stitch. Purl the stitch on the cable needle. This was for the Spider gloves but is the same for this pattern.
C1F – Cable 1 forward. Pick up the next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the FRONT of your work. Purl the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. This was for the Spider gloves but is the same for this pattern.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would. Watch this video to see how.
K2tog – How you do this depends where you are in the pattern. If you are making the right side of the leaf, knit right to left. If you are making the left side of the leaf, knit left to right. If you do it this way you eliminate the twisting of the stitch and the edge of the leaf flows evenly.
The k2tog are given for RIGHT handed knitters. If you are knitting left to right as a LEFT handed knitter, reverse the order that you knit the stitches together. K2tog from left to right then pick up, twist, knit from right to left.
Sl St – slip the stitch
PSSO – pass the slipped stitch over.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint or duplicate this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
Creepy? No. Awesome? YES! Knit a pair of fingerless gloves with a spider motif on the back of the hand. Guaranteed to never fall off, the 3D spider is created as you make the mitten.
This isn’t a pattern for beginners. You’ll need to think out of the box a bit for this one; making bobbles and working selectively over given stitches to create the body and head. But the basic glove portion is the same as every other glove with a thumb increase you’ve made, just like mySuper Simple Fingerless Gloves only done with a purl stitch to make the spider stand out even more.
This pattern has been in the works for a number of years now. It originally started as a knit in the round design, but because of the extensive purling, there were always lines left where the needles met. I couldn’t live with that.
So, there was a change in plans from the initial design. First change; it’s knit flat on 2 needles. The second is that instead of including a bunch of how-to pictures, and there were going to be a lot, I decided it was time to utilize links to how-to videos. Everything that may be challenging, particularly rows 25 – 27 can be a little confusing. I made videos that show the trickier parts of these rows. To watch the video, click the link provided. The video opens a new page on the website and you can watch the embedded YouTube video here.
Too much blib blab for you? Want to just print the damn pattern already? You have some options available to you.
Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Knit a Pair of Spider Fingerless Gloves – now with VIDEOS! You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. And the paperback version is also available on Amazon! It’s available to order in most countries. Be sure to make your purchase in the country you love so you can get free shipping with your Amazon Prime membership.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
It is very easy to have the wrong number of stitches created around the spider. This can happen between the gusset for the thumb and the spider, or for the shorter side. If that happens you can take it apart. The other option is to just go with it. Being a stitch or two off won’t be noticable to the wearer.
If you decide to “just go for it”, line up the stitches done to create the spider to previous spider stitches. In general, this is just the legs. They are very obvious. Keep in mind that you always knit the legs on the right side and purl the legs on the wrong side. Adjust the background of the mitt with your incorrect count of purl stitches on the right side and the knit stitches on the wrong side.
For example, if you’re making Row 30, instead of K7 at the start of the row you made a mistake and now have K8. Knit the 8 stitches instead and start the rest of the pattern from there.
Example row:
Row 30: K7 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K6 M1 K11 M1 K12
Abbreviations
If you need help with the less common stitches in the abbreviations list below, all are included in this playlist below. Specific videos for rows 25-27 are included in this list and also embedded below each row for the Left Hand glove.
K – Knit
P – Purl
st – stitch
sts – stitches
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how.
P3tog – Purl 3 stitches together
P2tog – Purl 2 stitches together
K2tog – Knit 2 stitches together
K3tog – Knit 3 stitches together
C1B – Cable 1 back. Pick up next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the BACK of your work. Knit the next stitch. Purl the stitch on the cable needle. Watch this video on Cable 1 Back to see how.
C1F – Cable 1 forward. Pick up the next stitch on a cable needle. Pull this stitch to the FRONT of your work. Purl the next stitch. Knit the stitch on the cable needle. Watch this video on Cable 1 Forward to see how.
FB2 – Knit in the front and back of the next stitch. This is also known as an increase one in the next stitch. I’m labeling it as this because it is very easy to make a mistake here and pick up an extra stitch. This way I know I have your attention and made you look ? No need to thank me..or complain. Both seem to be a likely response tbh.
Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m)
Knitting needles – described below in sizing and gauge
Cable Needle
Stitch Holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends
Sizing & Gauge
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the spider consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off. Most knitting is tbh.
Row 25: P28 K2tog, Bobble 6 (K6 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the one stitch, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K2tog 3 times (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle.) K2tog. P8 (39 sts) Click here for the video how-to link – Row 26 Video Tutorial
Row 26: K8 PM1 P3tog PM1 K28 (39 sts) Click here for the video how-to link:Row 26 – Video Tutorial
Row 27: P12 PM1 P9 PM1 P7 FB2 (This is a simple increase knit-wise in the next stitch. These are the start of the front legs). Bobble 5 (K5 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 5 stitches in the one stitch, P5, turn, K5, turn, P2tog P1 P2tog, turn, K3 (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle) FB2 (AKA Increase in the next stitch. Makes the other front legs). P8. (43 sts) Click here for the video how-to link: Row 27 – Video Tutorial
Row 28: K8 P2 K1 P2 K30 (43 sts)
Row 29: P29 C1B K1 P1 K1 C1F P7 (43 sts)
Row 30: K7 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. P1 K6 M1 K11 M1 K12 (45 sts)
Row 31: P30 C1B twice P1 C1F twice P6 (45 sts)
Row 32: K6 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K30 (45 sts)
Row 33: P12. Pass the next 13 stitches to a stitch holder. P7 K1 P3 K1 P8 (32 sts)
Row 34: K8 P1 K3 P1 K19 (32 sts)
Row 35: P across
Row 36: K across
Row 37: P across
Row 38: K across
Row 39 – 42: K1 P1 across
Cast off loosely.
Making the Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder. Transfer them onto the other needle so you start knitting with the WRONGside facing you. If you don’t transfer them onto the other needle you’ll get a line.
Row 25: P8 K2tog, Bobble 6 (K6 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the one stitch, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K6, turn, P6, turn, K2tog 3 times (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (The bobble is now 1 stitch again on your needle.) K2tog. P28 (39 sts)
Row 26: K28 PM1 P3tog PM1 K8 (39 sts)
Row 27: P8 FB2 (This is a simple increase knit-wise in the next stitch. These are the start of the front legs). Bobble 5 (K5 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front and back of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 5 stitches in the one stitch, P5, turn, K5, turn, P2tog P1 P2tog, turn, K3 (do NOT turn). Pass the middle stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. Two bobble stitches remain. Pass the second bobble stitch over the stitch closest to the tip of the needle. (There is now 1 stitch on your needle.) FB2 (AKA Increase in the next stitch. Makes the other front legs). P7 PM1 P9 PM1 P12. (43 sts)
Row 28: K30 P2 K1 P2 K8 (43 sts)
Row 29: P7 C1B K1 P1 K1 C1F P29 (43 sts)
Row 30: K12 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 *K1 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. K7 (45 sts)
Row 31: P6 C1B twice P1 C1F twice P30 (45 sts)
Row 32: K30 P1 K1 P1 K3 P1 K1 P1 K6 (45 sts)
Row 33: P8 K1 P3 K1 P7 Pass the next 13 stitches to a stitch holder P12 (32 sts)
Row 34: K19 P1 K3 P1 K8 (32 sts)
Row 35: P across
Row 36: K across
Row 37: P across
Row 38: K across
Row 39 – 42: K1 P1 across
Cast off loosely.
Making the Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder. Transfer them onto the other needle so you start knitting with the WRONGside facing you. If you don’t transfer them onto the other needle you’ll get a line.
Row 1: K across
Row 2: P across
Row 3: K across
Cast off loosely.
Finishing
I recommend that you finish the body of the spider before sewing the seams along the edge. It’s easier to work it when flat. I like to make a figure 8 around the body, to the head, around the head and back to the start.
To give the spider body and head a more rounded feel, cut a length of yarn about 12” long. Insert your tapestry needle from the wrong side through the front between the head and the body. Pick up stitches around the edge of the body, back to the head. Pull snug until you are happy with the body shape
Pick up stitches around the head back to the body. Pull snug until you’re happy with the shape.
Pull the yarn to the back of your work. Tie off.
I like to tack the body at it’s base to the glove so it won’t flop around and stay in line with the head. Tie off.
No need to work in the ends when finishing the spider body and head. Simply pull the yarn through the body of the spider. Press the body down and cut the yarn. When the body pops back up, the end will be hidden in the body.
Once the spider finishing is complete, sew the seams along the edge and the thumb, working in the ends when finished to avoid lumps from knots.
Like all my patterns, you are welcome to you this pattern to sell, give away or keep any physical items that you make. All I ask is that you respect my work and don’t make copies of my work in any form.
If you feel the need to complain about not being able to print this pattern from this website page, may I suggest you read this post – Your Patterns Aren’t Free! If you still feel a need to vent in the comments, wtf is the matter with you? It’s bad enough I had to take the time to write the blog post because of your fellow entitled users, don’t be like that too. And reassess your life. Seriously.
I’ve been busy as of late! I’ve updated photos and rewritten a few of my fingerless glove and mitt patterns over the last few weeks to bring you yet another compilation of my mitt and glove patterns! In this edition, there are a total of 9 patterns with all the classic favourites, plus a couple that were so old you may not have even known they existed!
If you don’t want to purchase the collection, that’s cool too! 😁 I have 2 options for you.
Scroll down the page to the links to the free-to-read online versions further down the page.
Leave a comment below for a chance to win a FREE printable copy! Scroll to the bottom👇🏼 of the page to learn more.
If you would like to purchase a copy, you can purchase and print the PDF yourself . It is cheaper that way, of course. You can purchase it from my website here – Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Patterns to Knitor from my Etsy shop here – Nine Knitting Patterns! – Fingerless Gloves and Mitten Collection. Either way I would like you to know it’s 93 pages. It’s a lot to print, but if you are comfortable reading PDF’s on your tablet or phone, this a very economical option.
All of the mitts and gloves shown in the photos below are included in this pattern collection.
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Flip mitts – fingers exposed
Flip mitts with no flap attached
FREE Knitting Pattern – Texting Mitts
Grey Cable Fingerless Gloves
Taupe Fingerless Gloves
This collection contains patterns for fingerless gloves knit flat on 2 needles and seamless gloves and mittens knit in the round on double pointed needles (DPN). This compilation also includes mitts that are specifically designed for texting. And lastly, another design to free your fingers when you need them but cover your fingers when required. In short, this collection meets all your fashion and functionality requirements.
If you want to purchase the printed, paperback book, delivered to your door, you can buy it from Amazon. If you’re an Amazon Prime member, shipping is FREE. To make sure you’re getting the best deal for where you live, please click the country you are in or closest to:
Like always, all of the patterns are free to read on this website. They are ad supported and unprintable. Sorry, but too many people were just printing the pages leaving me with nothing but a bill for web hosting costs. You may not realize this, but with each illegal print, you cost me advertising revenue. I am writing patterns to help support me and my family. I’m not a charity. I can only give so much folks!
The list of the patterns in this collection include the following (all titles are clickable links to the read online pattern btw):
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Make yourself a nifty pair of flip mitts. They’re hip, trendy and handier than a pocket on a shirt! Not only can you make these super awesome mitts for just about anyone from teen to adult, but you can forgo the finger portion and make some cool fingerless gloves. Technically, they’re fingerless mittens but that just sounds weird.
They’re knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. You’ll need to know how to knit to make this project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Flip mitts – fingers exposed
Flip mitts – fingers exposed
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Flip mitts – fingers exposed
Flip mitts – fingers exposed
Flip mitts – over the fingers
Flip mitts with no flap attached
Flip mitts with no flap attached
Flip mitts with no flap attached
The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand, medium is an average lady’s hand, large is for an average man’s hand, and extra large will fit a very large man’s hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each. Keep scrolling to read how to make the finger flap. Sorry, this pattern is a bit of a mammoth
If you would prefer, you can also download this pattern to any device such as a smartphone, computer or tablet. The PDF of this pattern is available on my website here: Knitted Flip Mitts and Fingerless Gloves. It will be available in all my retailers such as Ravelry,Etsy and Lovecraft’s. I’m also working on a compilation of all my glove and mitten patterns that will be a book on Amazon.
Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank
Instructions are written for small (medium, large, extra large)
Cast on 32 (36, 40, 44) loosely.
Round 1 – 6: K2 P2
Round 7 and on: Knit around until work measures 3 (3.5, 4, 4.5) inches from the cast on edge.
Next round: K1 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2 tog K2 K2tog K10 (12, 14, 16) K2tog K1.
Next 2 rounds: Knit
Next round: K1 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2 tog K2 K2tog K8 (10, 12, 14) K2tog K1.
Next 2 rounds: Knit
Next round: K1 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2 tog K2 K2tog K6 (8, 10, 12) K2tog K1.
Next 2 rounds: Knit
Next round: K1 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2 tog K2 K2tog K4 (6, 8, 10) K2tog K1.
Next 2 rounds: Knit
Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the thumb is along the edge of fold.
Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.
Graft Fingertips
The divided stitches will look something like this:
With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.
Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.
Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.
? Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.
Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. ?
Repeat from ? to ? until there are no stitches left on either needle.
Pull the yarn tight.
Make another mitten to match.
Attaching the Velcro
Cut a small piece of Velcro. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the back of the mitten first. Glue it in place.
Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the finger flap back (off the fingers). Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.
How to Pick Up a Stitch
I use this method to increase a stitch or pick up a stitch because it doesn’t leave a hole in your work. It takes a little longer to do but worth the effort in the final piece.
Make the stitch in the yarn stretched between two stitches.
Pick the yarn up with the needle.
Transfer the stitch onto the opposite needle.
Knit this newly formed stitch. You may have to pull the yarn forward a bit to get your needle beneath the yarn.
It automatically twists the stitch eliminating the hole.
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
sts – stitches
st – stitch
Helpful Hints
You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.
Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.
Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb or finger flap, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.
Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/
If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.
Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be ?
Improve your texting in cold climates with these thumbless mittens. More than just a pair of fingerless gloves, these keep your hands warm and only expose your thumbs when needed. The thumb pocket is sewn on and the flap is secured at the base of the palm with Velcro* for easy access. The flap hangs in the back out of the way to enable your texting abilities. Plan on using your thumbs for a while? Then simply tuck the flap into the thumb pocket.
The sizes are each written separately as each size is a bit different in row and stitch counts. Scroll down this post to the size you would like to make. Medium fits the average lady’s hand, large for men, and small for pre-teens.
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Don’t want to come back here to read the pattern? You can download the pattern to your tablet, phone or computer from my website at Knit a Pair of Texting Mitts. You can also get it from other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrafts. If the link isn’t working, I haven’t uploaded it to the site yet. It will be ASAP.
If you enjoy this and my other free knitting and crochet patterns, please Help Support My Work. It doesn’t have to be financial, though that’s always appreciated. Every like, share and follow also helps me keep this website running.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my
Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 20 – 21: Knit
Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 23 – 24: Knit
Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 26 – 27: Knit
Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 29 – 30: Knit
Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 32 – 33: Knit
Round 34: K1, place next 11 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts.. There should be 31 sts divided on the three needles.
Round 35 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 31 sts until work measures approximately 3.5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.
Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.
Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (if you scroll to the end of the post there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.
Finishing the Thumb
Worked over the 11 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.
Pick up and divided the 11 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.
Round 1 – 5: Knit
Bind off loosely.
Thumb Flap
Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: Knit
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: Knit
Row 14: Purl
Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Working over the 3 sts you just cast on, K3. Leave these 3 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 3 sts. Transfer these 3 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.
Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 20 – 21: Knit
Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 23 – 24: Knit
Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 26 – 27: Knit
Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 29 – 30: Knit
Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 32 – 33: Knit
Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 35 – 36: Knit
Round 37: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 35 sts divided on the three needles.
Round 38 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 35 sts until work measures approximately 4 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.
Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.
Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.
Finishing the Thumb
Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.
Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.
Round 1 – 5: Knit
Bind off loosely.
Thumb Flap
Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: Knit
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: Knit
Row 14: Purl
Row 15: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 7 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.
With the right side of your work facing you:
Round 16 – 27: Knit
Round 28: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 3 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.
Round 29: Knit
Round 30: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K2tog, K1
Draw loops together and sew in the ends.
Large
The Mitt
Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.
Round 19: K1, pick up a st (scroll down to the bottom of the page if you want to see photos of how I do this), k1, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 20 – 21: Knit
Round 22: K1, pick up a st, k3, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 23 – 24: Knit
Round 25: K1, pick up a st, k5, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 26 – 27: Knit
Round 28: K1, pick up a st, k7, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 29 – 30: Knit
Round 31: K1, pick up a st, k9, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 32 – 33: Knit
Round 34: K1, pick up a st, k11, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 35 – 36: Knit
Round 37: K1, pick up a st, k13, pick up a stitch. Knit remaining sts.
Round 38 – 39: Knit
Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. Knit the remaining sts. There should be 39 sts divided on the three needles.
Round 41 and on: Knit in the round on these remaining 39 sts until work measures approximately 5 inches from the stitches held back to form the thumb.
Transfer the stitches onto two needles being sure that the stitches held back for the thumb are along the fold.
Break yarn leaving enough to graft the fingertips (scroll to the bottom of the post where there are photos showing you how to do this) and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.
Finishing the Thumb
Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder. Leave the end you attach to complete the thumb longer than you normally would. You can use this to sew the thumb flap onto the mitten.
Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.
Round 1 – 8: Knit
Bind off loosely.
Thumb Flap
Using 2 of your double pointed needles and working back and forth.
Cast on 3 sts.
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: K1, pick up a st, K1 pick up a st, K1. (5 sts)
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Knit
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: K1, pick up a st, K3, pick up a st, K1. (7 sts)
Row 10: Purl
Row 11: Knit
Row 12: Purl
Row 13: Knit
Row 14: Purl
Row 15: K1, pick up a st, K5, pick up a st, K1. (9 sts)
Row 16: Purl
Row 17: Knit
Row 18: Purl
Row 19: Knit
Row 20: Purl
Row 21: With the right side of your work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Working over the 5 sts you just cast on, K5. Leave these 5 sts on the needle you used to knit them. With another double pointed needle, knit the 9 sts from the previous row. With the wrong side of you work facing you, cast on 5 sts. Transfer these 5 sts onto another double pointed needle. You will now start knitting in the round.
With the right side of your work facing you:
Round 22 – 38: Knit
Round 39: K2tog twice, K1, K2 tog 4 times, K1, K2 tog twice, K1.
Round 40: Knit
Round 41: K2tog, K1, K2tog twice, K1, K2tog, K1
Draw loops together and sew in the ends.If you are unfamiliar with how to end the fingertips on mittens (this works for socks as well), I’ve added a picture tutorial at the end of another pattern. Instead of me adding all the photos and instructions again, here’s the link to learn how – How to Graft Fingertips.
Make another mitten to match.
Attaching the Thumb Flap
With the yarn left from where you continued the thumb, attach the thumb flap to the mitten. Make sure that you attach the thumb flap to the back side of the left and right mittens accordingly. Easiest way is to lay the mitts flat with the thumbs pointing in opposite directions.
Attaching the Velcro
Cut a small piece of Velcro that will fit on the base of the thumb flap. Keeping both halves of the Velcro together, attach it to the THUMB FLAP first. Glue it in place.
Keeping the Velcro pieces together, place some glue on the other half of the Velcro. Pull the thumb flap forward in the toasty warm thumb position. With the Velcro still together, place the Velcro where the bottom of the flap touches the palm of the mitten. Press firmly. DO NOT pull the Velcro apart until ALL the glue has dried completely.Like grafting the fingertips, I’ve also shown how to pick up a stitch without leaving a hole. If you’d like to see how it’s done, here’s the link to learn how – How to Pick up a Stitch.
Abbreviations
K – Knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
sts – stitches
st – stitch
Helpful Hints
Make sure when attaching the Velcro to the thumb flap, that the fuzzy half of the Velcro is what you use for the flap. In other words, which ever side feels less rough. The other pokey side should go on the palm of the mitt. That way the Velcro won’t stick to the inside of the thumb flap when folded back into itself.
When picking up stitches to finish the thumb on the mitt, leave a long piece of yarn to sew on the thumb flap. This saves on the number of ends to sew in when you’re done.
You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.
Instead of glue, you can also sew the Velcro on. I find glue is simpler and quicker.
Well, since the how-to video showing how to knit these gloves in the round went over like a lead balloon, I’ve put in the effort and redesigned the gloves so they can be knit flat on 2 needles. Perfect for a newbie knitter wanting to learn new techniques! In case you still want to learn how to knit in the round or want the seamless version, you can read the pattern here – How to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves. The video is embedded on that page too, if you want to watch it.
If you are looking to knit a pair of plain gloves without the owls, the original version this pattern is available here – Super Simple Fingerless Gloves. It’s also knitted flat on 2 needles with a seam on the outside of the hand and inside of the thumb.
If you are so inclined and like to have matching sets of things, I have completed the matching hat or beanie! You could also call it a toque. Whatever floats your boat. It’s free to read on this website too. If you’d like to, click this link –How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern
Once again, I’ve made the gloves as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the owl the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
I am finished creating the downloadable pdf for this pattern and it’s available in all my usual online selling venues including Ravelry, Etsy, and this website – Super Easy to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS! Click any of those links to avoid the ads and purchase it for a nominal fee.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
I’ve also created videos for you to see how the stitches are done, if any of them are giving you problems. I do have all the basic stitch videos here – Learn Basic Knitting Stitches, but links to the slightly more advanced stitches that show you how to M1, PM1, C4F and C4B are provided on this page. Clicking the links will take you to the video, but will leave this page window open in your browser. You can also scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the stitch abbreviations that also contain the embedded video you can watch right from this page.
Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.
Gauge
This is important to follow for correct sizing. This is when using the US size 6 (4 mm) knitting needles.
2″ (5 cm) = 10 sts
2″ (5 cm) – 16 rows
in stockinette
Things You Need:
You can click any link below to see what you need.
Row 21: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K4 M1 K1 M1 K to the end of the row
Row 22: P20 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 23: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 24: P13 PM1 P3 PM1 P4 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 25: K5 P1 K8 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 26: P22 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 27: K5 P1 K8 P1 K4 M1 K5 M1 K to the end of the row
Row 28: P24 K1 P8 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 29: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row
Row 30: P13 PM1 P7 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 31: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 32: P26 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 33: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 M1 K9 M1 K to the end of the row
Row 34: P28 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 35: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 36: P13 PM1 P11 PM1 P4 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 37: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K to the end of the row
Row 38: P30 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 39: K5 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K4 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder. K to the end of the row
Row 40: P17 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P to the end of the row
Row 41: K5 P1 C4F C4B P1 K to the end of the row
Row 42: P17 K10 P to the end of the row
Row 43: Knit across
Row 44: Purl across
Row 45-50: Knit across
Cast off.
Making the Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches on the stitch holder
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Purl across
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Purl across
Cast off.
Sew seam along the side of the glove and the inside of the thumb. Work in ends.
Hints and Tips
Make your seams as narrow as possible when sewing them. The bulkier the seam the more noticeable and possibly uncomfortable for the wearer.
You can make these gloves with a ribbed cuff and around the fingers like the originalOwl Fingerless Gloves. You can easily do a K1 P1 ribbing to make that happen.
Abbreviation
K – knit
P – purl
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video below to see how.
M1 or Make 1 – Increase between stitches when knitting.
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the purl stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch as you regularly would.
PM1 or Purl Make 1 – Increase between stitches when purling.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C4F or Cable 4 Forward
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
The season is getting colder again, the few apples on my trees are turning red and my mind turns back towards knitting. And oh boy, am I coming up with a bunch of knitting designs! Now here’s to finding the time to publish them all. Work is also back to full-time so that’s great news ?
A couple of things about this knitting pattern before we grab our favourite worsted weight yarn, double pointed and cable needles and get to work. Like my Owl Fingerless Gloves pattern, I am keeping the stitch count the same and only changing the needles size to change the size of the glove. The pattern on the back of the hand stays proportional in size and placement on the glove remains the same for a better overall look.
I made a number of different lengths of the glove too, for demonstrative purposes. The taupe with flecks (apparently it’s also known as tweed, who knew) is the pattern exactly as written. I repeated the cable pattern once for the grey pair and 4 times for the purple tweed/flecked. There’s a note in the pattern what rows make up the 5 plait cable pattern. Why do 3 cables when you can do 5? I’ve always been a bit of an overachiever ?
The downloadable PDF version is completed and uploaded it to all my distributors. You can find it on the following fine and upstanding websites – Etsy, Ravelry, LoveCrafts and this website.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
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Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I also have – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It is very plain Jane and it’s the yarn that makes this one pop.
Ok. Enough of that. Let’s get knitting!!!
Things you will need:
worsted weight yarn – I used Red Heart worsted weight (AKA size 4 or 8 ply) yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.
As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.
Next Row: K1 Pass the next 13 stitches onto a stitch holder. K16 P1 C6F twice K3 P1 K1 (35 sts)
Next Row: K17 P1 K15 P1 K1
Next Row: K1 P1 around to last 2 sts. P2tog
Next 4 Rows: K1 P1 around
Cast off loosely.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
If you have too many stitches double check to make sure you haven’t picked up a stitch between the needles. If you don’t have enough stitches, did you drop one when you were making the cable? Yes, I do make typos sometimes but I double check and recheck before I publish these patterns and it is more likely you’ve made a slight error while knitting. I’ve given stitch counts at the end of every row to help you along. Please let me know if I legitly did make a mistake. But with saying that, it isn’t always my fault. Some of you get kinda nasty about this and you really need to stop. Here’s the email so you can complain to my manager if that last bit offended you – [email protected]. FYI Karens – I am the manager and that email address doesn’t work.
I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.
I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.
You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the cable motif with one needle having 15 stitches. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the cable.
If you like your ribbing to be a little more snug, you can use a smaller size needles to knit this portion. Stepping it down a half size; small – 3.5 mm, medium – 4.5 mm and large 5.5 mm should work. You may want to go smaller. I don’t do this because I always forget to switch back.
I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section if it works. It’s been acting up since I switched hosting plans. Sorry.
Abbreviations:
C6F – Cable 6 forward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
C6B – Cable 6 backward. With your cable needle, slip 3 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches from the cable needle.
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
K – Knit
P – Purl
Sts – stitches
P2tog – Purl 2 together
Well, that wraps up this knitting pattern. I hope you liked it, have a lot of fun with it, and maybe even make a bit of money from what you make. Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any gloves/mitts that you make from this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reproduce or republish this pattern in any form. Whether it be illegal screen shots of this page, a copy you print from this webpage, or multiple copies of the ONE pattern you paid for and subsequently give to your friends. Yes. All of those behaviours violate copyright laws. And every time you do that, it makes one less pair of eyeballs on my work that takes away from any ad revenue or other profits I may make from my hard efforts in designing and writing these patterns. I don’t work for free. I’m sure you don’t either.
Knit a fabulous pair of fingerless gloves or mitts with the cutest little bows flowing down the length of your arm and back of your hand. Create the bows as you go; I have pics to show you how. Make them as long or as short as you like. It really depends on how much you like knitting in the round on double pointed needles (DPN).
Don’t want to read this online and avoid the ads. You can download this pattern for 99¢ directly from this website here – How to Knit Fingerless Arm Warmers or Gloves – with Bows! I can now process credit and debit cards right here on the website. Not cool with that? You can also download the pattern through Ravelry, Etsy and other retailers.
Like the owl motif, I have a love affair going on with these bows. So far, I’ve incorporated it into slippers and a dishcloth, both of which are available to read right here on my website for free (that’s right, give those links a click). They are also downloadable in a number of online retailers such as Raverly, Etsy, Google Books and Amazon for a minimal cost. If you’re not a fan of intro blog blather or ads, you can also download this pattern at any of those fine retailers.
A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes and having the bows remain centered, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These mitts knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for theleft hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.
If you’re running into problems with this knitting pattern or have a question, scroll down to the Hints and Tipssection at the bottom of the post. I think I’ve pretty much answered everything. You can also click the link above to take you right there. If there are additional questions, they’ll pop up in the comments over time which are at the bottom of the page.
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Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your printable PDF copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.
Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups and get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
worsted weight yarn (any standard ball will be more than enough to make the shorter, hand only version. You’ll need more if you are making them longer. For example, I used less than a 100 gr or 3.5 oz ball to make the long green gloves in size medium.)
Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends
A Note on Sizing
As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.
Like most things I knit, I use myself for standard sizing. To give you an idea of fit, I wear a medium sized latex glove. The medium size bow glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.
Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.
Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around
Rounds 8 – 9: K around
♥︎ Round 10: K8 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19.
Making the strand. Notice that the stitches passed over are spread apart and not bunched together.
Strand complete. Note the slack of the strand.
Round 11: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 12: As round 10
Round 13: As round 11
Round 14: As round 10
Round 15: As round 11
Round 16: As round 10
Round 17: As round 11
Round 18: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up
Four strands on the working needle
And knit the next stitch.
Four strands and about to knit the stitch
Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed).
Pull the yarn down beneath the strands as shown
All strands caught by the knit stitch
The bow once the other 3 stitches are knitted
K3 P1 K19
Round 18 written without photos: K8 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 19: K8 P1 K7 P1 K19 ♥︎
Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ if you would like a longer length of glove. Each ? to ? repeat makes 1 bow motif.
Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 21: K to the P P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 22: K to the P P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 24: As round 22
Round 25: As round 21
Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 27: As round 21
Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 30: As round 22
Round 31: As round 21
Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K6 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K19
Round 33: As round 21
Round 34: As round 22
Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 K7 P1 K19
Round 36: As round 22
Round 37: As round 21
Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K6 P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K19
Round 39: As round 21
Rounds 40 – 41: K around
Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in lat stitch.
Round 43 – 46: K1 P1 around.
Cast off loosely.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.
Cast on 36 sts loosely. You need to allow the ribbing to stretch.
Rounds 1 – 7: K1 P1 around
Rounds 8 – 9: K around
♥︎ Round 10: K22 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5.
Round 11: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 12: As round 10
Round 13: As round 11
Round 14: As round 10
Round 15: As round 11
Round 16: As round 10
Round 17: As round 11
Round 18: K22 P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 19: K22 P1 K7 P1 K5 ♥︎
Repeat from ? to ? if you would like a longer length of glove. Each ♥︎ to ♥︎ repeat makes 1 bow motif.
Round 20: K1 M1 K1 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 21: K to the P. P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 22: K to the P. P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 23: K1 M1 K3 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 24: As round 22
Round 25: As round 21
Round 26: K1 M1 K5 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 27: As round 21
Round 28: K to the P. P1 K3 Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 29: K1 M1 K7 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 30: As round 22
Round 31: As round 21
Round 32: K1 M1 K9 M1 K20 P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 7 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1 K5
Round 33: As round 21
Round 34: As round 22
Round 35: K1 M1 K11 M1 K20 P1 K7 P1 K5
Round 36: As round 22
Round 37: As round 21
Round 38: K1 Pass next 13 stitches onto the stitch holder. K to the P. P1 K3. Pick up the 4 strands from the bottom up and knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 4 strands (Bow completed). K3 P1 K5
Round 39: As round 21
Rounds 40 – 41: K around
Round 42: K2tog P1 K1 around. P1 in last stitch.
Round 43 – 46: K1 P1 around.
Cast off loosely.
Sew in the ends and close the hole at the base of the thumb.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.
You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.
Spread the 7 passed stitches apart to allow for some slack in the strand. If you don’t the bows will pucker. I usually spread them as far apart as they will go and stay in a relaxed position.
A quick note on making them longer into arm warmers. The green arm warmers repeat the bow section 4 more times than what is written. As it is written you get the short gloves with 3 bow motifs. The final length is about 25 cm or 9.5 inches long. Depending on the circumference of the arm you may need to add and cast on more stitches. This is where having the bows staying centred gets difficult. I can’t really help you with that. It’s a bunch of additional math, frustration and trial and error I really don’t want to get into. Sorry.
Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.
I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.
You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between 2 knit stitches before the purl at the start of the bow motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the bow and lessens the chances of dropping or adding a stitch when switching between working needles.
When you are done making the bows, they may pull a bit weirdly on one side. Simply put your needle beneath the 4 strands and give a bit of a tug up away from the mitt on both sides. That is enough to straighten and even them out.
If you’ve gained a stitch, check to see that you haven’t picked up a stitch between your needles. This is very easy to do and I even do it on occasion. When switching between needles the yarn will catch on the needle, not falling in behind again like it should. If you’re a little distracted, you’ll knit this new “stitch”, gaining an extra stitch on the next round.
I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn (DK or 3 perhaps) can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.
Abbreviations:
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
K – Knit
P – Purl
Sts – stitches
K2tog – Knit 2 together
I’m going to repeat this statement just in case you missed it earlier…
Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell any of the arm warmers, gloves or mitts you make from this pattern. You do NOT have permission to redistribute this pattern in any form. Which includes, reprinting or republishing it in any form: physical, digital or anything else. That statement includes you. No, you can’t print this webpage for yourself, your friends, family or anyone else. Please purchase your copy at any of these fine distributors – this website, Ravelry or Etsy for the very minimal cost of 99¢. Help support the hard work of the author and encourage future publications.
I’m not sure if this happens to anyone else, but I found some fantastic yarn on clearance that I absolutely had to have. Of course, I had no idea what to do with it. Then I got on my fingerless glove kick. I have written other patterns in the past such as my Owl Fingerless Gloves, Flip Mitts, and Texting Mitts, but they were all made with standard worsted weight yarn. The yarn I couldn’t leave behind was light weight; 3 as by North American terminology. So, a redesign of my gloves was in order! I absolutely love that these are a lighter, more delicate version of my previous patterns. AND I can use colour changing yarn and it works! If this is your first time using one of my patterns, I kinda got a thing for shaded yarns…just sayin’.
And if you were looking to buy a pair of these beauties but accidentally wound up here, click this link Hand Knit Fingerless Gloves and you can purchase a finished pair from my website. Or if you prefer to order through Etsy, you can get them there too – Fingerless Gloves by KweenBee on Etsy.
Like my other fingerless mitts, these are knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. This is definitely not a beginner’s knitting project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.
Plain Cuff Fingerless Gloves
If you are looking to make a pair of longer fingerless mitts, I can help you with that too! The striped fingerless glove pattern is basically the same as this one, but I’ve worked out the decreases to make them go all the way up to the elbow. You can click this link (or the photos) to read the pattern online.
And they don’t need to be striped. For the pair in the photo I used self-striping yarn so no ends to work in. But you can also make a more plain style like the green ones.
The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand. Think a younger teenager. A mediumis an average lady’s hand. I’m a medium when it comes to rubber gloves and I designed the medium mitt to fit my hand. Large is for a larger size hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each.
Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media. You can use the links above to easily do so.
The PDF is also available for your viewing pleasure. If you are tired of the ad supported version, you can download the PDF for a small fee from my website – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves, Ravelry or Etsy. All are the same price no matter where you get it from.
Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
K2tog – knit 2 together
sts – stitches
st – stitch
Helpful Hints
You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.
Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.
Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/
If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.
Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be ?
Also known as fingerless mittens, I seem to have a thing going on for this awesome owl motif. If you haven’t seen them already, I also have a Knitted Owl Slipper pattern that you may like. But more about these awesome fingerless gloves… They are fairly quick to make if you’re somewhat of an experienced knitter. If you don’t know how to knit in the round on double pointed needles (dpn), you’re in luck! I rewrote the pattern so anyone who loves the knitted owl motif, but not comfortable knitting in the round can still make an awesome pair of owl fingerless gloves. The pattern is free to read online, too! Click this link – Easy to Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves to see how to knit these flat on 2 needles instead of in the round on 4.
If you are so inclined and like to have matching sets of things, I have completed the matching hat or beanie! You could also call it a toque. Whatever floats your boat. It’s free to read on this website too. If you’d like to, click this link –How To Knit A Beanie Hat – With OWLS! – FREE Knitting Pattern
If you’re willing to learn how to knit on 4 needles, I’ve made a step-by-step video showing you every single round. You can watch it here if you need any help along the way – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with Owls! If you scroll down the page, I’ve also embedded the video so you won’t have to leave this page.
Regardless if knitted flat or in the round, this is also a great pattern if you have a bit of left over yarn from other knitting projects. Like enough to knit one slipper, but you’re not sure if you’ll have enough to finish the whole pair. I know. We’ve all been there.
Did you wind up here looking for the finished product and not a pattern? No worries! You can buy your very own pair either from this website here – Hand Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves or in my Etsy shop.
And due to the number of folks contacting me via email and through the comments below, I am now offering a download of this pattern! I can’t give it away for free though; there is a minimal cost. You can download it directly from this site here – Owl Fingerless Gloves, or at other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, and LoveCrafts.
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A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes, and to keep the proportion of the knitted owls the same, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These are knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for theleft hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.
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Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or are more plain Jane and can cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. I forgot I even had those… huh! And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I just finished another fingerless mitten pattern. It’s cleverly titled – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It also is very plain Jane and is owl free!
Things you will need:
worsted weight yarn (less than 50 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves. I know because I weighed them ?). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.
As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. the Grey mittens are a medium. The beige is a small if you like your gloves a bit on the snug side. I didn’t even bother trying to model the red. They were too big. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.
If you are having problems with a particular row, once you push play, you can scroll through the video to find the card with the row number written on it. If you watch the video on YouTube here – How to Knit Fingerless Owls Gloves or Mitts, there are time stamps for each row in the description.
Me on YouTube knitting’ it up!
Left Hand
Cast on 36 sts loosely (you need to allow the ribbing to stretch)
Round 1 – 10: K1 P1
Round 11 – 13: K around
Round 14: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18 (knitted stitches between the M1’s are the thumb increase)
Round 35: K2tog. *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * around ending with P1.
Round 36 – 39: K1 P1 around.
Cast off loosely. It needs to stretch.
Make Thumb
Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.
Hints and Tips
I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.
Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.
I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.
You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the owl motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the owl.
I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.
Abbreviations:
C4F – Cable 4 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
C4B – Cable 4 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.
M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.
