Category: Crochet Patterns

I came up with this crochet bracelet design years ago and have been selling the occasional one online for quite some time. They are a great little money maker too! It doesn’t cost much in either material or time so are a great thing to put on your table at the next craft fair you attend. I sell them in my online shop on Etsy. Right now, I’m focused on the more gothic, dark colour version. The lighter, more delicate ones are soon to make an appearance. I do alright with them. It’s one thing that people don’t know they want until they see them so I’m finding marketing a bit of a challenge.

This crochet pattern is short and simple. It’s also easy to make and is a great way to use up those awesome, one of a kind buttons that are just a bit too nice to get rid of but you don’t know what else to do with them.

If you are enjoying the free patterns and would like to see more, then please share my work! Those handy little icons up there ☝? let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work

Without further ado, here’s the pattern so you can get your crochet on. And the link in case you’d like to download the ad free version of the pattern instead – Waves Bracelet Crochet Pattern.

If you’re more experienced downloading from Etsy, you can also get that pattern here – Crochet Pattern – How to Crochet a Beautiful Bracelet How to Crochet Jewelry Waves Bracelet

Things you need:

Gauge:

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. The pattern, as written, makes a bracelet that is approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length. If you’re so inclined, you can make this bracelet either longer or shorter in 1.5 cm or 5/8 inch increments. For example, if it is too long by 5/8 of an inch, then chain 6 less stitches (69 chains). If you needed the bracelet to be 3 cm longer, chain 12 more stitches than what the instructions give (87 chains).

The Pattern:

Chain 75.

Round 1: With main colour of thread, sc in 2^nd chain from hook. Sc in each chain to the end. In the last chain, 5sc. On the opposite side (there is a small loop on the bottom of each sc you made down the chain), sc to the end of the chain. In the last chain 4sc. Join with sl st to the first sc made. Break thread.

Round 2: With complimentary colour of thread, join the thread in the 3^rd sc after join of last round. Ch 1, sc in same st as ch 1. 2sc. * ch5, skip next 3 sts, 3sc * repeat from * to * 10 more times. Ch7, sc in middle st of 5sc of previous round. C7, skip next 3 sts, 3sc, repeat from * to * 11 more times. Ch7, sc in top sc of previous round. Ch7, join with sl st to 1^st sc of round. Break thread.

Round 3: With main colour of thread, join in 1^st ch5 loop of previous round. Working in the loop, ch2, 9dc. 10dc in the each ch5 and ch7 loop around. Join with sl st to top of ch2. Break thread.

Round 4: With complimentary colour of thread, and working in the back loop of each dc, join thread in back loop of the 5^thdc of previous round. Ch1, sc in same st as join. Sc in each dc leaving the last dc of shell unworked. In this unworked dc and the 1^st dc of next shell, sc2tog. (In other words, sc2tog between the last dc of this shell and 1^st dc of the following shell. ) * 8sc, sc2tog * repeat from * to * 9 more times. 8sc. (You should be at the end of the bracelet between the shells) ch 10 (or however many sts you need to slide over your selected button). Sl st in sc just made forming a loop. Sc2tog in the last dc of this shell and in the 1^st dc of the next shell. * 8sc, sc2tog * repeat from * to * 11 more times. 8sc. (You should be at the opposite end of the bracelet between the shells). Sc2tog over last and first dc of the end shells. Sc in remaining dc. Sl st to first sc made in the round. Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite the loop as shown above.

Work in thread ends.

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Hints and Tips:

The counts for how many time you repeat the * to * sections of rounds 2 and 4 will change if you’ve made the bracelet longer or shorter than the 7 inches than I wrote this pattern.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making the bracelet.

Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches. The joins are positioned along the pattern so there isn’t too many ends in one area.

You can use 1 to 4 colours to make this bracelet. Just because I’ve only shown examples with 2 colours, doesn’t mean you can’t try something different.

When making the loop to secure the bracelet, chain as many stitches as you think you may need. Sl st to the sc and pass the button through the loop. If it is too small, undo the sl st and add more chains. If too long, undo the sl st and take some out. It’s easier to check now than later. And always easier to sl st to the sc to make sure it’s a good length.

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

2sctog – single crochet 2 stitches together

Back on the bracelet train! This time it’s for a beautiful flower that you can wear on your wrist. I really enjoy making these. It’s fun to see how the flower will turn out based on the colour choices you choose.

The bracelet itself is a very basic design and can easily be made as a stand alone item. Originally, I was going to publish the bracelet alone but figured if you wanted to make just the bracelet you could make that choice all on your own.

And if you are looking to make some extra cash and sell these, which I’m always cool with btw, the cost to make these is next to nothing. You can purchase crochet cotton thread for very reasonable costs at second hand stores and at many big box stores.

Like all my crochet patterns, if you would prefer to read this off line, you can also download the ad free, PDF version for a small fee/donation from another section of my website. To do so, please click on the following link – How to Crochet – Flower and Friendship Bracelet. If you’d prefer, you can also get the download through my Etsy Shop or on Ravelry. (You can click any of those blue links to download.)

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you are enjoying the free patterns and would like to see more, then please share my work! Those handy little icons down there ?? let you do it easily and helps me so much. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

Things you need:

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook

Gauge:

It’s not really important for this crochet project as there isn’t a specific length needed. Make the bracelet as long as you like, keeping in mind that the stitches will relax and stretch a bit over time. The flower shouldn’t be too floppy though. You want the stitches tight enough to hold the shape of the outside petals.

Bracelet:

Ch 10

Sc in 2^nd chain from hook. 3 sc. 3 sc in next ch. 4 sc. Ch 1. Turn.

Next row: Skip the 1^st st. Work the remaining sts in the back loop of the sts of the previous row (creates the ridge effect). 4 sc. 3 sc in the next st. 3 sc. Sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn.

Repeat this row until the bracelet is the length you want. Remember, it will stretch a bit over time!

Don’t turn your work when working the last row!

Edging (optional): If you are making the edging a different colour, don’t ch 1! Break your thread and rejoin with new colour in the last st you made.

1 sc in each row down the length of the bracelet. 3 sc in the corner st. 2 sc. Pull up a loop in the next 3 sts. Draw through all 3 loops on the hook. 2 sc. 3 sc in the corner st. 1 sc in each row down the length of the bracelet to the corner. 3 sc in the corner. Sl st in each st to the corner. Join to original corner.

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Flower:

Ch 2.

Round 1: 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to 1^st sc.

Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in same st. 2 sc in each sc of previous round. Join with sl st in the back loop of 1^st sc. (12 sc). Break thread.

Round 3 – Inner Flower (with mid-range colour): Work all of the following sts in the back loop of previous round. Ch 3 (counts as 1^st dc). 3 trc. 1 dc. Drop the loop from hook. Insert hook through the top of the Ch 3 of this round and the loop you just dropped.

Draw the loop through the top of the ch 3.

Ch 3. *1 dc, 3 trc, 1 dc. Drop the loop from hook. Insert hook through the top of the dc at the start of this petal and the loop you just dropped. Draw a loop through the top of the 1^st dc of this petal. Ch 3.* Repeat from * to * around. Join with sl st to the top of starting ch 3 of this round. Break thread.

Round 4 – Base of Outer Petals (with lightest colour): *Ch 11. Sl st in 10^th ch from hook. Sl st in the st behind next petal of previous round (the stitch you created when you dropped the loop and pulled it through the dc).* Repeat from * to * around. Join last sl st to 1^st ch 1 of the round.

Round 5 – Outer Petals: *Make the stitches between these symbols { } in the 10 ch loop. {1 sc. 1 hdc. 4 dc. 2 trc. Ch 3. Sl st in top of last trc made (picot made). 2 trc. 4 dc. 1 hdc. 1 sc. Sl st.} Sl st in the space behind the next petal of the inner flower (dropped stitch space).* Repeat from * to * around. Join last sl st to base of first petal. Break thread. Work in ends.

Make Ties:

Cut 4 strands of thread approximately 8 inches long. They can be the same colour as the bracelet, one of the colours used for the flower or a combination of all the thread colours. Fold in half. Insert your crochet hook through the front of your bracelet. Catch the middle where folded and pull through to form a small loop. Feed the 8 ends of the thread through the loop. Pull tight. Trim ends so they are all the same length. Repeat for the other end.

Hints and Tips:

No matter what, don’t stretch out the bracelet before you are completely finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making your project. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches.

I decided to use ties to secure this bracelet so you can tighten it as the stitches relax and the bracelet loosens over time. This way, you can make it tighter to keep from spinning around the wrist when worn. It drives me nuts when bracelets do that ?

Instead of making ties, you can use a button to secure the bracelet. When making the edging, add the loop to pass over the button. I’ve also used a snap to secure it when making only the bracelet with no flower. If you decide to use a button or snap, it’s best to overlap the bracelet a bit by an inch or so. Make it longer than you would if using ties.

Using variegated thread for the bracelet and/or flower will give unique effects. In particular, it will make stripes on the bracelet and blotches of colour for the petals. You may need to play with it a bit to see what kind of effect you’ll get. Colour changing threads vary in how much change there is and how much thread is dyed the colours.

You can make the bracelet thicker than what is written here. You can easily add stitches. Make sure they’re equal on both sides. For example, this row could read… Skip the 1^st st. Work the remaining sts in the back loop of the sts of the previous row (creates the ridge effect). 6 sc (instead of 4). 3 sc in the next st. 5 sc (instead of 3). Sc2tog. Ch 1. Turn. You’d chain 14 instead of 10 at the start. Just remember to keep the 3 sc in the middle, forming the point, the same.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble (or triple) crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here. 

I originally published this pattern way back in 2016; seems like a lifetime ago these days. Back then, I was charging for it, but like all my patterns, I’m making this crochet pattern free for anyone who would like it. This particular pattern started off as a bracelet design, then subsequently morphed into necklaces because I liked it so much. Also, I found some way cool charms and pendants that I just had to use. 

As far as the difficulty of the pattern, adding the charms may be a little tricky at first, especially if you’re using charms that have one good side. If the charms are printed or carved, like the teacups or Buddhas shown above in the bracelets, then it’s not so important. If you find one sided charms, no worries. There are a bunch of pictures I’ve included that show you how to attach the charms so they’ll face the right direction.

To make things a smidgen easier for you here is the link if you want to make the bracelet and this is the link for the necklace. I’ve included all the photos in both versions to make it easier for you. If recommend starting with the bracelet so you can get the feel of how to do it. And if you would prefer a ad free, PDF downloadable version of the pattern instead of being online, you can get that for a small fee/donation here – Crocheted Victorian Charm Bracelet and Necklace or here in my Etsy shop.

Lovin’ the free patterns and want to help support this website? Please share this pattern on your social media and send an email to anyone you think may like it. Those handy links up there will certainly help you do it. I’m also fond of any financial donation you may see fit to give. You can go to my Help Support My Work page to find out how.

Things you need:

Gauge: 

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. This pattern can be made as long as you like and you can easily adjust the length to what you want when you’re making it. Each fan adds approximately 25/32″ or 2 cm. Generally speaking, I make my bracelets approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length making 9 fans total. Necklaces vary depending on the length you want. I wrote the instructions for a necklace approximately 18 7/64 inches or 46 cm and 24 fans long.

Another point to remember, your final product will stretch a bit longer as the stitches relax over time or if you press it with an iron.

Crocheted Victorian Charm Necklace

Chain 194. (Instructions are for 11 charm necklace)

Row 1: Dc 3^rd chain from hook. Dc in each chain. Ch1. Turn.

Row 2: 4sc *ch2 skip next st. 3sc. Ch3. Skip next st. 3sc.* Repeat from * to * ending with ch2. Skip next st. 3sc. Ch1. Turn. (Click here if you have too many or not enough dc’s)

Row 3: *7trc in ch2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch3 space. Ch2.* Repeat from * to * 6 more times ending the last repeat with the sc in the ch3 space. Ch1. 

Add charm as follows:

With the loop already on your hook, pull to make larger. Drop the loop from the hook.

Pick up the charm and put hook through the hole from BACK to FRONT.

Pull loop through the hole. Make sure that the loop isn’t twisted. Slightly pull on it to make sure the thread pulls easily on the LEFT side.

Pass the loop over the charm and pull snug but not tight.

Put the hook through the top of the sc in the ch3 space.

Hook the thread and pull the thread through. 

You now have a loop on your hook to continue crocheting. This stitch also turns the charm to the front.

*Ch2. 7trc in ch 2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch 3 space. Ch1. Add charm.* Repeat from * to * until all the charms have been added.

Ch2 *7trc in ch2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch3 space. Ch2.* Repeat from * to * 6 more times ending the last repeat with the 7trc in ch2 space. 3sc in the 1^st sc of the 4sc of the previous row (forms the corner for the edging).

Row 4: Working along the edge, sc in the post of the dc. 

3Sc in the back loop of the original ch. 

For a Round Necklace:

Sc in the loop of each ch to the end of the necklace to the last ch.

For a V-Shaped Necklace (or using a heavy middle charm)

Find the st above the middle charm. Count back 6 stitches. Mark this stitch with a stitch marker, safety pin, etc. Sc in the back loop of the original ch until you reach this marked stitch. Sc2tog 6 times (these 12 stitches are now 6). Sc in the back loop of each ch to the end of the necklace to the last ch

Instructions regardless of shape

3sc in the corner ch. Sc around the post of the dc. Ch as many chains as required to slip over your selected button. Sl st in the last sc you made. Sc around the sc post. Sc in corner st. 

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite the loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

Crocheted Victorian Charm Bracelet

Chain 73. (Instructions are for 7 charms)

Row 1: Sc in 2^nd chain from hook. Sc in each chain. Ch1. Turn.

Row 2: 4sc *ch2 skip next st. 3sc. Ch3. Skip next st. 3sc.* Repeat from * to * ending with ch2. Skip next st. 3sc. Ch1. Turn. (Click here if you have too many or not enough sc’s)

Row 3: *7trc in ch2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch3 space. Ch1.

Add charm as follows:

With the loop already on your hook, pull to make larger. Drop the loop from the hook.

Pick up the charm and put hook through the hole from BACK to FRONT.

Pull loop through the hole. Make sure that the loop isn’t twisted. Slightly pull on it to make sure the thread pulls easily on the LEFT side.

Pass the loop over the charm and pull snug but not tight.

Put the hook through the top of the sc in the ch3 space.

Hook the thread and pull the thread through. 

You now have a loop on your hook to continue crocheting. This stitch also turns the charm to the front.

*Ch2. 7trc in ch 2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch 3 space. Ch1. Add charm.* Repeat from * to * until all the charms have been added.

Ch2 *7trc in ch2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch3 space. Ch2. 7trc in ch2 space. 3sc in the 1^st sc of the 4sc of the previous row (forms the corner for the edging.)

Row 4: Working along the edge, sc in the post of the sc.

3Sc in the back loop of the original ch. 

Sc in the loop of each ch to the end of the bracelet to the last ch.

3sc in the corner ch.

Sc around the post of the sc. Ch as many chains as required to slip over your selected button. Sl st in the last sc you made. Sc around the sc post. Sc in corner st. .

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite the loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

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Hints and Tips:

It is very easy to either miss a chain, chain the wrong number, or chain twice by accident in the same chain. This will throw off the counts for Row 2 and you may end up with too many or not enough dc for the necklace (sc for the bracelet) to work Row 3 over. Don’t panic! Make it work with what you have. A stitch or 2 more or less won’t ruin the final piece. You can either sc stitches together if too many or sc 2 stitches in one stitch if you don’t have enough. FYI making things work like this, works great for all projects. Many times it can be hidden in a seam or the back of the work 😉

It’s best to pick charms that have a large hole that you can pass your crochet hook through. If not you can twist up the loop and feed it through the hole. This can be difficult and time consuming though. If the charm’s hole is sideways (hole is left to right), you can use a jump ring to get it to hang correctly.

Not sure where to get charms for your project? If you can’t find what you’re looking for locally, be sure to try Amazon, Ebay or even Etsy. Always shop local when you can and see what your craft store has in stock!

If you want to make either the bracelet or necklace longer or shorter, add or take away 8 stitches. Each group of 8 stitches is approximately 25/32″ or 2 cm. For example, if you would like the bracelet to be 1 1/2″ longer, add 16 stitches. This of course, will make the repeats for adding charms either more or less for the necklace. 

If you don’t want to make a v-neck and would prefer a choker or rounded edge, sc in the loop of each chain without sc any of them together. It will form a rounded edge. If your center charm is large or heavy the weight of the charm will naturally form a v regardless whether you gather the stitches. It will buckle awkwardly if you don’t gather the stitches.

You don’t always need to make a loop for a necklace. A long length of chains can also work. Wrap the length of chains a few times around the button to hold the necklace snug. This works great for a choker as the circumference of necks can vary and will fit more comfortably. If you’ve used heavy charms, make the loop. This fastener won’t hold it in place.

Sew the button to the final piece as shown here:

No matter what, don’t stretch out the necklace or bracelet before you are completely finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making your project. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches. 

When making the loop to secure the bracelet or necklace, chain as many stitches as you think you may need. Sl st to the sc and pass the button through the loop. If it is too small, undo the sl st and add more chains. If too long, undo the sl st and take some stitches out. It’s easier to check now than later. 

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble (or triple) crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together

ch – chain 

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

Nice idea, but what can I do with a crocheted flower, you may be asking yourself? Well, you can do a lot with them actually. In particular, I designed this pattern to be the perfect size to be a ring. Make a matching set and you have a pair of earrings. Sew the flowers together and you can make a necklace or choker. Add them as an embellishment on one of my existing crochet bracelet patterns. You can see those by click these links: Quick and Easy Bracelet, Fans Bracelet, and Waves Bracelet. If you come up with more ideas, I loved to read about them in my comment section below ?.

I have been designing crochet flowers for number of years but never really got around to publishing any of them to share. Most are done on the fly, free from crochet if you will, with more and more detail being added to each time I make a new crochet flower.

I have shared a few of my flower designs, in particular my Friendship and Flower Bracelet crochet pattern that has been relatively popular. Mostly I’ve been making flowers to add to my art projects like you can see in my Etsy shop and here:

Depending on the response to this, my first stand alone crochet flower pattern, I may add the others.

While I wouldn’t consider this project crochet for beginners, if you know your basic crochet stitches, this is quick and fairly easy to make. Originally when I designed this I was aiming for a crochet sunflower. While it is a bit small to be a sunflower, It does have a sunflower type feel to it. At least I feel it does. Depending on your colour selections, you really can make this be any sort of generic “crochet flower”.

But without further ado, except for the handy share icons ?, here is how to crochet a flower step by step and what you will need.

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Things You Will Need:

Crocheting the Flower:

With the centre colour crochet thread

Ch 2 (make the first loop slightly larger so you can fit in the sc coming up).

Row 1: 9 sc in 2nd ch from the hook. Join with sl st in the top of the first sc (not the ch. Ignore it. It’ll be fine. Trust me.)

Row 2: Ch 2. *(Sc, ch 1)* in the next sc of previous round. Repeat from * to * in each sc around. Join in the first ch 1 of first ch 2. Break thread.

Row 3: Join petal colour thread in any ch 1 space. Ch 2, tr (wrap thread 2 times around hook), tr +1 (wrap thread 3 times around hook), tr, dc. Ch 1. Turn. Join with sl st to top of ch 2. Ch 2. *In next ch 1 space, dc, tr , tr +1 , tr, dc. Ch 1. Turn. Join with sl st to top of the first dc. Ch 2.* Repeat around. Join with a sl st to the sl st at the top of the ch 2 of first petal made. Break thread.

Work in the ends. Sew the flower to the ring base.

Hints and Tips:

When starting your flower, leave a generous tail when you make your original ch 2. You can use this thread to sew the flower to the ring.

Hold your thread to the back of your work when making the petals if you can. If you catch the thread when making a few stitches, it will stay in place without any extra sewing. (I really need to show how to do this with some photos at some point. It’s a huge time saver.)

If you can’t find the shade of crochet cotton thread that you want, you’ll be able to find the embroidery thread (aka embroidery floss) that is the correct colour. For the life of me I can’t find any brown crochet cotton thread locally so I decided to use embroidery thread instead. It worked great! It’s actually the centre of the crochet sunflower. Couldn’t tell could you ?. You will have to separate 2 or 3 threads from the skein to acquire the same thickness as the crochet cotton thread. I found 2 pulled out worked best but it may be different depending on what embroidery thread you’re using.

You can make as many petals on the flowers as you like. Either add more original sc at the beginning and corresponding number of sc, ch 1 on the second row. Be carful though. Too many and the flower won’t lie flat. Not enough and it will look less full and not be enough to go around.

If you ended up with more or less petals than 9, technically, you made it wrong. It doesn’t really matter. But if you’re trying to make a product to sell or make a matching set for earrings or a choker, make sure you do it the same way every time. You want to be consistent. To get 9 ch 1 spaces exactly each time, I count the number of ch 1’s I make INCLUDING the first ch 1 at the start of row 2 (the first ch of the ch 2 is really a sc. The 2nd ch is creating the ch 1 space), then I join in the first ch 1 space I made.

You can adjust the size of the petals by changing up the stitches used to make them. Smaller stitch combo’s such as sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc in each ch 1 space will make it smaller. Tr, tr +1, (3 times around hook), dtr (4 times around the hook) tr tr, tr can give some interesting effects.

I prefer the ring type that I’ve shown in the affiliate link (yes, I’ll make a bit of money from the sale) but you may prefer something else. I’ve tried a variety of glues and double sided tape (even professional grade) and none of the products worked to my satisfaction in holding the final crochet flower to the ring base. I found sewing it on by passing the thread through the middle hole and around the sides held it securely. And I could also find these bases easily at my local big box craft store. ?

I never ironed my crochet flower before sewing it to the base. It wouldn’t hurt but it’s a very stitch dense item and I don’t think it would really do much to the finished crochet flower.

Abbreviations:

Sl st – slip stitch

Ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet. Wrap the thread 1 time around the hook.

tr – treble crochet. Wrap the thread 2 times around the hook.

tr +1 – treble crochet plus one additional thread wrap. Wrap the thread 3 times around the hook. (This isn’t a standard stitch so I just made up the most logical name and abbreviation).

This is more than a common granny square…this is what is known as an afghan stitch or tunisian crochet. A few months ago I decided to make another afghan using this method. It’s the second one I’ve made, but this time instead of using my left over yarn I came up with the idea to make it a little more fancy. The house and star patterns are done in a basic cross-stitch and really could be anything you want. What I didn’t realize was how long it was going to take me to finish this project. It was a mammoth undertaking but slowly it’s came together. Since the chances of me making another one like this in the near future is slim to none, I figured I might as well share it with everyone.

To start with, you can make the squares any size you like. For my project I’m making them 41 stitches across and 40 rows long. I found an actual afghan hook at my local Michael’s store but you can use a regular crochet hook in whatever size you want. An afghan hook is very long and has an end on it like the end of a knitting needle. If you can’t find one you can use a traditional style hook. To keep the stitches from falling off the end of a regular crochet hook, you can wrap a rubber band around the end to help hold them on. The size of the hook you use can be whatever you like. I’m using a size 5 mm (size 8 US) hook and the next size smaller for doing the edging around each square once it’s was completed.

Like my knitted sock pattern, this is a read online only pattern. I never had the gumption to make it available as a download. If you’d like to see that change, please contact me and I’ll see what I can do.

To Do the Afghan Stitch (or How to Tunisian Crochet):

Chain 41

1st Row: In the second chain from the hook, pull up a loop as if you were making a single crochet.

Without completing the previous stitch, pull up a loop through the next chain.

Pull up a loop through the next chain and repeat until you get to the end of the chain.  You will have 41 loops on your crochet hook.

With the 1st loop on the end of your hook, chain 1.

With the loop you just made, pull up a loop through this stitch and the next loop on your hook.

Pull up a loop through the loop you just made and the next loop on your hook.  Repeat this until there is only one loop remaining on your hook.

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2nd Row: There will be a vertical bar formed by each stitch from the last row.  You work the stitches along these bars.

Place your hook under the first bar.  Draw up a loop as if making a single crochet. Do not complete the stitch.

Place your hook under the next bar draw up another loop.  Repeat this with all of the bars. 

The last stitch looks like two chains.  Draw up a loop through the top chain.  You will have 41 loops on your hook.

With the first loop on your hook, chain 1.

Draw a loop through the loop you just made and the next loop on your hook.  Repeat until there is only one loop remaining on your hook.

Repeat row 2 for each subsequent row. 

You can make the squares as long as you want.  For my project I’m making 40 rows.

To finish:

There will be one loop on your hook.  Place your hook under the vertical bar.  Draw up a loop but this time, complete the single crochet. Repeat with all the bars.  Once again the last stitch looks like 2 chains.  Draw up a loop through the top chain and complete the single crochet. Finish off.

When your square is completed they tend to roll up. A quick ironing will help the fibers relax and lie flat. Be sure to read the care instructions that came with your yarn. Some may have specific recommendations on temperature settings or blocking.

To create the edging on your pieces, you can do whatever you like. You may want to surround it with a combination of rows like double crochet and single crochet, or you may want single crochet with the following rows in the back stitch of previous rows. It really doesn’t matter and is your personal preference. Just be sure that your work lies flat. You may need to use a smaller crochet hook than the one you used to make the squares to create a flat edge or decrease where necessary.

My project is 2 rows of double crochet and one row of single crochet on the 2 side edges. I’m then stitching the squares together along these edges making a long strip. I then do 2 rows of double crochet and one row of single crochet along the tops and bottoms of these strips. Then, I’m sewing the strips together and working in the ends. 

For a more interesting effect you can try using two colours of yarn and alternate the colours for each row. The yarn will naturally keep to the back when you switch between colours. You can also try using a very fine yarn or fingering with a regular worsted weight yarn. Work them together as if they are one strand.

For myself, I think that this will be my first and last afghan like this. I’ve been considering maybe making pillows with this stitch and doing more elaborate cross-stitch decorations on them. I’ve also considered wall hangings to be more like art pieces, but I always have a list as long as my arm of to-do projects in the works. 

I hope you found this helpful or at the very least inspiring. If you are enjoying the free patterns and how-to pics, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and helps me tremendously. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

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If you’ve crocheted before and are familiar with most of the stitches, this will be a snap for you to make. If you’re new, it may push you a bit, but is still totally doable. It’s extremely repetitive and once you catch on, the repeated sections will be second nature to you.

I’ve written instructions to make the bracelet in one colour (easiest if you’re new to crocheting) and separate instructions for the two-tone version. Only Round 2 is a bit different, but I figured it would be easier to have it written out in full for both versions instead of having to scroll back to look. Keep scrolling down the page to read the two-tone instructions.

If you’re making the single colour bracelet, selecting a variegated thread could add some interesting variations to the look of the bracelet. Sorry I never made a one colour one though. I’m rather fond of two colour…

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But let’s get to the pattern.

Things you need:

1 or 2 balls of crochet cotton thread

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook

A pretty button ( approximately 1/2” or 1.5 cm diameter)

Gauge:  

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. This pattern can be made as long as you like and you can easily adjust the length to what you want when you’re making it. Each loop adds approximately 25/32″ or 2 cm. It depends how tightly you crochet. Generally speaking, I make my bracelets approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length. I make 10 loops total for this pattern but you can add or make less as you see fit.

Another point to remember, your final product will stretch a bit longer as the stitches relax over time or if you press it with an iron.

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double crochet

trc – treble (or triple) crochet

tr-trc – triple treble crochet (wrap the thread around the hook 6 times)

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

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Single Colour Bracelet  

(keep scrolling if you want the 2 colour version)

Starting loop:

Chain 7. Tr-trc (triple treble crochet – wrap the thread 6 time around the hook) in 7th  chain from hook.

Additional loops:

Chain 8. Tr-trc in 7th chain from hook. Repeat 8 more times for 10 loops total. You can add more or make less loops depending on the length you want.

Round 1:  Ch1. *12 sc in loop just formed. Sl st in ch between loops.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Work 24 sc in last loop. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. 12 sc in last loop. Join with sl st to first sc.

Round 2:  *2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * 2  more  times. Ch 6.  In the next loop after sl st in space between loops, skip next 3 sts and starting in the 4th  st,  ?  5 sc, ch 6.  ?ﾠRepeat from  ?ﾠto  ?ﾠdown the length of the bracelet. In last loop starting after the sl st between loops, skip first 3 sts and starting in the 4th st  ⛄  2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.⛄  Repeat from  ⛄  to  ⛄  5  more  times. Ch 6. Repeat from  ?ﾠto  ?ﾠdown the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops and starting in the 4th st, repeat from * to * 3 times total. Join with sl st  in the back loop  of the first sc of the round.

Round 3:  Sc in the back loop of every sc of previous round. (Sc, hd, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc) in every ch 6 space. Join with sl st to first sc of the round.

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite of either loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

Two-Tone Bracelet

Starting loop:

Chain 7. Tr-trc (triple treble crochet – wrap the thread 6 time around the hook) in 7th  chain from hook.

Additional loops:

Chain 8. Tr-trc in 7thchain from hook. Repeat 8 more times for 10 loops total. You can add more or make less loops depending on the length you want.

Round 1:  Ch1. *12 sc in loop just formed. Sl st in ch between loops.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Work 24 sc in last loop. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. 12 sc in last loop. Join with sl st to first sc. Break thread.

Round 2:In any loop other than a loop on the end, and starting after the sl st between loops, skip the first 3 sts join the thread in the 4th  st, ch 1 (counts as first sc), 4  sc, ch 6.  ?ﾠ5 sc, ch 6.?ﾠRepeat from  ?ﾠto  ? down the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops, skip first 3 sts and starting in the 4th st  ?ﾠ2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.  ?ﾠRepeat from  ?ﾠto  ?ﾠ5  more  times. Ch 6. Repeat from  ?ﾠto  ?ﾠdown the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops, and starting in the 4th st, repeat from ?ﾠto  ?ﾠ6 times total. Ch 6. Join with sl st  in the back loop  of the first sc of the round.

Round 3:  Sc in the back loop of every sc of previous round. (Sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc) in every ch 6 space. Join with sl st to first sc of the round.

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite of either loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

Hints and Tips:

It is very easy to either miss a chain, chain the wrong number, or sc the wrong number by accident in Round 1. This will throw off the counts for Round 2 and you may end up with too many or not enough sc. Don’t panic! Round 3 is very forgiving and will hide all. As long as your skipped stitches on either side of the 5 sc clusters are the same, you won’t really be able to tell; even if you only make 4 stitches or make it 6 sc. Make it work with what you have. Another fix, you can either sc stitches together if too many or sc 2 stitches in one stitch if you don’t have enough. FYI making things work like this, works great for all projects. Many times it can be hidden in a seam or the back of the work 😉

No matter what, don’t stretch out the necklace or bracelet before you are completely finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making your project. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches.

Be sure you don’t twist your loops when adding the sc’s in Round 1. The chains should be on the  BOTTOM  of the loop and the tr-trc on the  TOP.

A simple rule to follow for this very repetitive pattern, after the 5 sc clusters and the large numbers of sc’s made on the end loops, always remember to ch 6. Simply put, every time you run across the sl st between the loops, ch 6.

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Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the bracelets that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission from me to do so.