Welcome to the next book in the series of my collection of knitting patterns! If you enjoyed my Nine Fingerless Gloves and Mitts to Knit, I’m sure you’ll enjoy this one just as much.
This delightful collection of practical yet stylish fingerless glove designs is sure to inspire knitters of all skill levels. Each pattern is knit flat on two straight needles, making them accessible even to those who may be new to knitting or prefer simpler techniques. Whether you’re a beginner eager to complete your first project or an intermediate knitter looking to expand your repertoire with charming new details, this collection offers something for everyone.
The designs range from playful, whimsical animals that add a touch of fun to your wardrobe, to elegant leaves and decorative motifs that showcase a refined sense of style. Each pattern is thoughtfully crafted with the perfect balance of simplicity and creativity, ensuring that the process is as enjoyable as the result.
As you work through the patterns, you’ll find yourself fully supported by helpful step-by-step videos and detailed photos, making even the trickiest techniques feel approachable. With these resources, you’ll gain confidence in your knitting skills and be able to complete each glove with pride. This collection will not only add a unique flair to your knitting projects but will also fill your crafting time with joy and satisfaction.
There are a number of options available to make the fingerless gloves. All the fingerless gloves patterns are free to read on this website. You can use this link – Fingerless Glove and Mitten Patterns to see all of them. I listed them all individually at the end of this post if you are looking for a specific one. 😁
Another option is to purchase and print the pattern yourself. If you are ok with printing the 104 page document, you can buy it from this website – Eight Fingerless Gloves to Knit or from my Etsy shop. You can click or tap either of those links to see the collection.
If you would prefer to have the paperback version fully printed, bound and sent directly to your door, you can order the book online from Amazon. Be sure to click on your country so shipping will be as low as possible. If you are an Amazon Prime Member, the shipping is free! If you have a Kindle, the cheaper, digital version is available at the same links.
I understand that not everyone is in the financial position to purchase patterns, and that’s ok. That’s why I offer them for free; to enable anyone to use my work and be able to enjoy and even profit from it. That’s why while I give permission for everyone to sell what they make from my patterns, I ask that you respect the patterns themselves. Do NOT make illegal copies of them.
If you know someone who wants to use the patterns, send them the link so they can read the pattern online themselves. It helps me VERY much when you do this. More people on the website tell search engines that what is on my site is valuable and people like it. This makes it more likely that Google, Bing, Yahoo, etc will suggests my patterns when people do a search online.
To make sharing the patterns even easier, there are floating share buttons along the side of this and every page of the website. All you need to do is click it to share it. You can also use these share buttons to share this page.
Now that we’re through all that, here is the list of individual patterns that you can read online for free.
I’m thrilled to share my latest knitting pattern for fingerless mitts, and yes, my love for these cozy accessories shows no sign of stopping! This time around, I’ve added a twist—quite literally—with a unique cable pattern that elegantly winds its way down the back of the hand. It’s a design element that adds both texture and visual interest, making these mitts a true standout piece.
If you’re someone who’s mastered the basics and is looking to elevate your knitting game, this pattern is the perfect next step. It’s designed to bridge the gap between a beginner and an experienced knitter. And if cabling is new to you, don’t worry—this is the ideal project to dive in and learn something new! I’ve made sure to include video tutorials in the Abbreviations section to guide you through the cabling process, so you’ll have all the support you need.
But that’s not all! I’ve also added links to help you with any other potentially tricky parts of the pattern, like increasing for the thumb gusset. I want to ensure you feel confident and supported every step of the way. So, grab your needles, and let’s knit something beautiful together!
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Things You Will Need
Worsted weight yarn (less than 100 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves as written. I know because I weighed them). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.
Set of single pointed needles (see note on sizing)
Stitch holder
Tapestry needle to sew the seams and work in ends
Cable needle
Sizing
Like my other fingerless gloves I’ve designed such as my owl fingerless gloves, I use the size of the needles to change the size of the mitt. This keeps the proportion of the design consistent to the size of the glove.
My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge.
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) single pointed needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) single pointed needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Left Hand
Cast on 36
Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1
Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K15 P1 K16 P1 K3
✰ Row 8: P3 K1 P16 K1 P15
❀ Row 9: K15 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8
Row 11: K15 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Row 12: Repeat ✰Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.
Next row: K12 M1 K M1 K2 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (38 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P17
Next row: K17 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 PM1 P PM1 P13 (40 sts)
Next row: K19 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P19
Next row: K14 M1 K M1 K4 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (42 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P21
Next row: K21 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P5 PM1 P PM1 P15 (44 sts)
Next row: K23 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P23
Next row: K16 M1 K M1 K6 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3 (46 sts)
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P25
Next row: K25 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P7 PM1 P PM1 P17 (48 sts)
Next row: K27 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P27
Next row: K12 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K2 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K3 (35 sts)
❤ Next row: P3 K1 P16 K1 P14
Next row: K14 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K3
Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤
✪ Next row: ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 3 sts P2 K1
Next row: P1 ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 2 sts. K2 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.
Cast off
Thumb
Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,
Row 1: P1 * K2 P2 * repeat from * to * to the last 3 sts. K2 P1
Row 2: K1 ✥ P2 K2 ✥ repeat from ✥ to ✥ to the last 3 sts. P2 K1
Repeat rows 1 and 2 for a total of 6 rows.
Row 7: K3 P1 K16 P1 K15
✰ Row 8: P15 K1 P16 K1 P3
❀ Row 9: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K15
Row 10: Repeat ✰ Row 8
Row 11: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K15
Row 12: Repeat ✰ Row 8 ❀ Repeat from ❀ to ❀ 3 times more. If you would like longer gloves, make more repeats.
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K2 M1 K M1 K12 (38 sts)
Next row: P17 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K17
Next row: P13 PM1 P PM1 P3 K1 P16 K1 P3 (40 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K19
Next row: P19 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K4 M1 K M1 K14 (42 sts)
Next row: P21 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K21
Next row: P15 PM1 P PM1 P5 K1 P16 K1 P3 (44 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K23
Next row: P23 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K6 M1 K M1 K16 (46 sts)
Next row: P25 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K25
Next row: P17 PM1 P PM1 P7 K1 P16 K1 P3 (48 sts)
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K27
Next row: P27 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 C4F K8 C4B P1 K2 Pass the next 13 sts onto a stitch holder K12 (35 sts)
❤ Next row: P14 K1 P16 K1 P3
Next row: K3 P1 K4 C4F C4B K4 P1 K14
Next row: Repeat row marked with ❤
✪ Next row: K ♦ P2 K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ to last 2 sts P2
Next row: ☺ K2 P2 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ to the last 3 sts. K2 P1 ✪ Repeat from ✪ to ✪ one more time.
Cast off
Thumb
Pass the 13 sts on the stitch holder back onto your knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing,
Next row: K across
Next row: P across
Next row: K across
Next row: P across
Cast off
Sew the seams of the thumbs and along the side of each hand. Work in the ends.
Hints and Tips
You can make the gloves as long or as short as you like. I made 3 repeats of the design. You could do less for a shorter version. The grey pair were repeated 7 times to give you an idea of what it looks like when longer.
Make the seam as narrow as you can when sewing it along the side. Less seam means less irritation. Make sure that it still looks good. If you don’t know how, there are a number of videos online that will show you how to do a blanket stitch.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.
C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4F or Cable 4 Forward.
C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how. How to C4B or Cable 4 Back
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how. How to Make One or M1 – Increase between stitches
PM1 – Make one (purl wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Purl the stitch. Watch this video on How to PM1 or Purl Make 1 to see how.
Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.
If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].
Inspired by the series Outlander, these gorgeous fingerless gloves are absolutely lovely! Like the designer Louise Bollanos, I too enjoy of the show and have noticed the great hand knit items that Claire wears throughout the series. The Hobbit was also pretty awesome and had knitters right onset knitting stuff. For real. It was in the extended version behind the scenes if you’d like to see for yourself. But I digress…
These fingerless gloves are knit in the round on double point needles (dpn) and the use of a cable needle. If you are comfortable with both techniques, then this pattern should be no problem for you to make.
