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Knit Flat Mushroom Bucket Hat – Free Knitting Pattern for Cottagecore Style

Knitted bucket hat with toadstool mushrooms around the brim

I do like fungi and I do like hats. So what better than to combine the 2 and make a hat with mushrooms! Is it to everyone’s taste? Heck, no. And I knew that when I designed it. And boy was it a challenge. It took me 9 complete hats to get the design to work and sit on the head right. It started as a single mushroom, smack dab in the front, but it just didn’t work no matter what I did. Now there are 7 toadstools all around the hat.

For this pattern, you’ll need to pull the stitches together so the mushroom stands out from the background. To do this, pass the yarn behind your work and catch it when knitting on the right side. It’s done the same way you do any colour work when knitting. The video has you pull it tighter for the gloves, but for the hat, how you normally do it will work.

The video is queued to the right spot for each row as you knit the mushrooms. I originally showed how to make the toadstools on gloves but kept the video general enough to apply to anything. You can watch the video by clicking the video below. It will automatically play from the start for the gloves with the intro.

I’ve made this hat to only fit adults as I got tired of making hats. I ran out of patience and desire to do the math and make the samples of smaller hats. If you want me to work up child sized versions, let me know. You can leave me a comment below.

If you would like to make a plain bucket hat that is designed to fit the whole family, be sure to check out this one. Knit flat with straight needles and 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, it works up super fast! Here’s the link to read that pattern – Knitted Bucket Hat for Children and Adults

Knitting pattern - bucket hat for adults

For ease of knitting this hat, I generally used one colour for the mushrooms on my sample hat. There is nothing stopping you from making each mushroom unique with its individual coloured stem and cap. It would be a great way to use up some of those small leftovers of yarn that really aren’t good for much more than a single stripe on a scarf. 

If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy ShopRavelryLoveCraftsBuy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.

If you would prefer to order a Kindle or printed paperback version from Amazon, you can now do so! Shipping is free if you are an Amazon Prime member. Make sure you select the country you are in to take advantage of the free shipping. Click the following link for your country – United StatesUnited KingdomCanada, and Australia. The Kindle download and paperback versions are available in English only. Links for this coming soon!

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Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn in 3 colours:

Main Colour (MC): approx. 100 g (3.5 oz)

Stem Colour (SC): small amount. Each stem uses about 120 cm (47 inches)

Cap Colour (CC): approx. 30 g Each cap uses about 275 cm (108 inches)

1 set of 4 mm (US 6) single pointed knitting needles

1 set of 3.25 or 3.5 mm (US 3 or 4) single pointed knitting needles (optional)

Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.

Gauge

In stockinette

9 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

12 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizes are written as such:

S-M (L-XL)

21-22 inches (23-24 inches)

53.5 – 56 cm (57 – 61 cm)

Brim

With MC cast on 122 (130) sts with the 3.25 or 3.5 mm knitting needles. You can use the 4 mm needles but smaller needles will make a tighter brim edge. 

Switch to the 4 mm (US 6) for the remainder of the pattern.

♥ Row 1: K across

Row 2: *K2 P2* Repeat from * to * until the last 2 sts. K2 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ for a total of 8 rows

Row 9: K4 🍄 K2tog K6  Repeat from 🍄 to 🍄 to the last 6 sts. K2tog K4 (107, 114 sts)

Row 10: K2 P2 🐿️ K1 P2 K2 P2 🐿️ Repeat from 🐿️ to 🐿️ to the last 5 sts. K1 P2 K2

Row 11: K across

Row 12: As row 

Row 13: ♦ K2tog K5 ♦ Repeat to the last 2 sts. K2tog. (91, 97 sts)

Row 14: ♪ K1 P2 ♪ Repeat to the last st. K1

Mushroom Band or Crown

☼  Row 15: K across

Row 16: P across ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ one more time.

Row19: K5. With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ With MC K10 (11). With SC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1, Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P5. Turn. K5. Turn. P5. Turn. K5. ♠ Repeat from  to ♠ 5 times more. With MC K5. (105, 111 sts)

Row 20: P5. With SC P5. ◊ With MC K10 (11). With SC P5.◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 5 times more.  With MC P5.

Row 21: K5. With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC TWK2tog. K1. K2tog. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.(91, 97 sts)

Row 22: P5. With SC P3. ☺ With MC P10 (11). With SC P3. ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 5 times more. With MC P5. 

Row 23: K5. With SC K3. ◘ With MC K10 (11). With SC K3. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 5 times more. With MC K5.

Row 24: As row 22

Row 25: K3. With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13. ₪ With MC K6 (7). With CC K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1 M1 K1. Turn. Leave remaining sts unworked. P13. Turn. K13. Turn. P13. Turn K13.  Repeat from  to  5 times more. With MC K3. ( 133, 139 sts)

Row 26: P3. With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † With MC P6 (7). With CC P2tog P9 TBLP2tog. † Repeat from † to † 5 times more. With MC P3. (119, 125 sts)

Row 27: K3. M1. ♫ With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. K6 (7). M1. With CC TWK2tog K7 K2tog. With MC M1. ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ 5 times more. With MC K3. (119, 125 sts)

Row 28: P4. With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ With MC P8 (9). With CC P2tog P5 TBLP2tog. ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 5 times more. With MC P4. (105, 111 sts)

Row 29: K4. M1. ♣ With CC TWK2tog K3 K2tog. With MC M1 K8 (9) M1. With CC TWK2tog With MC M1. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 5 times more. With MC K4. (105, 111 sts)

Row 30: With MC P across

✾ Row 31: K across 

Row 32: P across ✾ Repeat from ✾ to ✾ 1 (2) times more.

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Top

Next row:  K8 K2tog Repeat from  to  to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (95, 100 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row:  K7 K2tog Repeat from  to  to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (85, 89 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row:  K6 K2tog Repeat from  to  to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (75, 78 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row:  K5 K2tog Repeat from  to  to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (65, 67 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row:  K4 K2tog Repeat from  to  to the last 5 (1) st. K5 (1). (55, 56 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row:  K3 K2tog Repeat from  to  to the last st. K5 (1). (45, 45 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row:  K2 K2tog Repeat from  to  to the last st. K1. (34, 34 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row:  K1 K2tog Repeat from  to  to the last st. K1. (23, 23 sts)

Next row: P across

Next row: K2tog across. K the last st. (12, 12 sts)

Break yarn and draw through. Sew the seam and add embellishments to the mushrooms if desired. Work in all ends.Watch the video for help on finishing and catching any loose stitches. You can use this link – Finishing

How to Make the Dots (French Knots)

You can make the dots or you can do flecks on your mushroom caps. You can even leave the cap plain if you like. It’s up to you. To make the flecks, just go over a few stitches with a complimentary colour of yarn. 

Mushroom fingerless glove knitting pattern sample

If you want to make the dots, they’re French knots, you can watch the video below.

Hints and Tips

This hat needs to be blocked, so to speak. To get the correct sizing at the end, it’s best to get the stitches to relax. You can do this by steaming the piece and gently stretching it over a bowl, mannequin head or even a Styrofoam ball. If you are able to, using the head of the intended wearer can also work. 

The video showing how the knit the mushroom is very similar but not exactly the same. The stem is shorter than in the original mushroom in the video. It fits the hat better when done like this. Also, the mushroom cap is one row shorter. Because the stitches are stockinette on the right side, purling across on the wrong side with the main colour looks ok on the right side.

I suggest not keeping the lengths of the stem colour long like I did for the mushroom in the video (I also don’t include the french knots in the length required for the stems) There are 7 ends to contend with and can be a bit cumbersome to manage when trying to knit. It’s better to use a shorter length to knit the stem and come back with another, separate length of yarn to make the embellishments like the french knots or the flecks.

The lengths of yarn given for the stem and mushroom are approximate only. You may need more or less depending how much you need to wrap around your fingers for even tension.

Abbreviations

st – stitch

sts – stitches

sl – slip the stitch

K – knit

P – purl 

K2tog – knit 2 stitches together

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video on How to M1 or Make 1 to see how. 

TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left.

TBLP2tog – (Through the Back Loop, Purl 2 sts together) – Purl 2 together through the back loop from left to right. 

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

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Knit Flat Bucket Hat – with OWLS! Free Knitting Pattern

Owl bucket hat - free knitting pattern

This is an old riff on a new design. As you may know, I have a thing for owls. I’m also starting to develop a thing for hats. In particular, bucket hats. I have a crochet version and a double thick knit version done thus far. With this hat, the owls can easily be replaceable with any design. And yes, I will be replacing it with various stitch patterns, colours and the like. I may even redesign it so it’s knit in the round on multiple needles so there’s no seam. If you would like that pattern, let me know in the comments.

Unlike my other plain knitted bucket hat, this one doesn’t require anything beyond a single pair of knitting needles and a cable needle. If you’ve made my other owl projects like the scarf, fingerless gloves and the beanie hat, then you’ll be able to make this up in no time.

If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

Not a fan of reading things online or would like to print this pattern? You can download the ad free PDF version of this pattern for a small here – Knit Owl Bucket Hat, from RavelryLoveCrafts, my Etsy Shop or as a Kindle or paperback from Amazon.

Another option, become a member on this site. It’s not overly expensive, only $3 per month, and you can cancel at any time. 

In the exclusive member area, I’ve listed all of my patterns by category and you can download them with a single click. No waiting for links through an email. Simply click the link, the pattern downloads, and depending on your computer or smart device settings, opens automatically. Easy peasy. Once you become a member, you can also read the pattern online without ads or pop-ups. Interested? Click the link below…

Things You Need

Worsted weight yarn (either complimentary colours or single colour)

4 mm (Size 6 US) single pointed knitting needles

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

16 buttons or jewels for eyes 

Gauge

In stockinette

10 sts = 2 inches (5 cm)

13 rows = 2 inches (5 cm)

Sizes are written as such:

S-M (L-XL)

Top

With main colour 

Cast on 5

Row 1: INC across (10 sts)

If there are any stitches that you don’t know how to make, please go to the Abbreviations section at the end of the pattern. I embedded the how-to YouTube videos for you to watch there. 😊

Row 2: P across (always P across for every even row, or WRONG side, until told otherwise directed in the instructions)

Row 3: *K1 M1 * Repeat from * to * until last 2 sts. K2 (18 sts)

Row 5: ♠ K2 M1 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ until last 2 sts. K2 (26 sts)

Row 7: ♦ K3 M1 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ until last 2 sts. K2 (34 sts)

Row 9: ♥ K4 M1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ until last 2 sts. K2 (42 sts)

Row 11: ♪ K5 M1 ♪ Repeat from ♪ to ♪ until last 2 sts. K2 (50 sts)

Row 13: ▲ K6 M1 ▲ Repeat from ▲ to ▲ until last 2 sts. K2 (58 sts)

Row 15: ☼ K7 M1 ☼ Repeat from ☼ to ☼ until last 2 sts. K2 (66 sts)

Row 17: ⌂ K8 M1 ⌂ Repeat from ⌂ to ⌂ until last 2 sts. K2 (74 sts)

Row 19: ∞ K9 M1 ∞ Repeat from ∞ to ∞ until last 2 sts. K2 (82 sts)

Row 21: ♣ K10 M1 ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ until last 2 sts. K2 (90 sts)

Stop here if making the sm/med size hat. Go to row marked with ■ and skip row 23 and 24.

Row 23: ◄ K11 M1 ◄ Repeat from ◄ to ◄ until last 2 sts. K2 (98 sts)

Owl Band

■ Change colour for top stripe.

Next 4 rows: K across.

Change colour for owls.

Next row (right side): K across.

Next row (wrong side): K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1(2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ɵ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1(2) ɵ Repeat from ɵ to ɵ 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ɸ P1(2) C4F C4B P2 ɸ Repeat from ɸ to ɸ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 Ʊ K2 P8 K1(2) Ʊ Repeat from Ʊ to Ʊ 7 times more. K1

Next row (right side): P1 ¤ P1(2) K8 P2 ¤ Repeat from ¤ to ¤ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 ɚ K2 P8 K1(2) ɚ Repeat from ɚ to ɚ 7 times more. K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺

2 times more.

Next row: P1 ☻ P1(2) C2F C2B P2 ☻ Repeat from ☻ to ☻ 7 times more. P1

Next row: K1 * K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) * Repeat from * to * 7 times more. K1

◊ Next row (right side): P1 ♠ P1 (2) K2 P4 K2 P2 ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 7 times more. P1 

Next row: K1 ȸ K2 P2 K4 P2 K1 (2) ȸ Repeat from ȸ to ȸ 7 times more. K1 ◊ Repeat from ◊ to ◊ 

4 times more.

Change colour for bottom stripe.

Next row: K1 ∆ K1(2) C4F C4B K2 ∆ Repeat from ∆ to ∆ 7 times more. K1

Next 3 rows: K across

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Brim

Change to main colour.

Next row: * K2 M1 K1* Repeat across. K0(2). (120 (162 sts)

۞ Next row: K0(2) ♥ P3 K1 ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ across

Next row: K across

Next row: Repeat row marked with ۞

Next row: ♫ INC K3 ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ across. K0(2). (150 (162 sts)

Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across

§ Next row: K across

Next row: K0(2) ɷ P3 K2 ɷ Repeat from ɷ to ɷ across § Repeat from § to § 2 more times.

Cast off.

Hints and Tips

Unlike the other knit bucket hat I have, there is nothing overly tricky about this one. It knits flat on one set of needles making it much easier to make.

Blocking your final project is always up to you. Most things I make I never block. I did with the smaller version (yellow with the yarn eyes) so it would fit the mannequin head better. I cannot recommend a steamer enough! There are a variety on Amazon for fairly cheap. These use nothing but steam, and even when using acrylic yarn, it still holds its shape while relaxing the stitches and doesn’t squash the knitting like a standard iron will.

I also decided to try embroidering on the eyes for the owls. I’m also running out of the half cabochons for eyes so I kinda had to. Do I love it? I don’t hate it and prefer the half cabs but that’s just me. All I did was run a single strand of yarn behind the owls and embroider over the stitches in the eye position. You can see the yarn running behind a bit. If it was a lighter yarn behind a darker colour it would look better. I also left enough yarn between eyes to stretch with the hat. Make sure it’s not too tight if you do this!

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl

INC – Make 2 sts in one st. Knit in the front of the stitch and the back of the stitch Click this link to watch this video to see how.

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Click this link to watch this video to see how.

Side note: I use both versions of the terminology when it comes to cable stitches. I’ve been corrected that I’m using the wrong one for both occasions so it’s a no win for me. What I mean is that C4F is the same technique as C2F. Just like how C2B is the same as C4B. Do you think of it as the just the stitches you’re pulling or the number of stitches you’re using in total when you do it? It’s a personal choice, I guess.

C4F – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the FRONT of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.

C4B – Pick up the next 2 stitches with your cable needle. Pull the stitches to the BACK of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. Watch this video to see how.