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Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults – FREE Knitting Pattern

Ribbed moccasin bootie slippers for adults - green

Shocker. Another slipper design 😂 I really do like this style of slipper but after designing the basic moccasin slipper, I was thinking of ways that I can gussy it up a bit if you will. I liked the idea of doing ribbing around it, simply for the additional visual appeal. When I started I didn’t realize how complicated it would be to make the ribbing line up regardless of the sizing. But I gave it some thought, did the math and tahdah! The ribbed moccasins slippers have arrived.

Like the original design, this style of slipper is knit flat on straight needles. The only catch is that it use 2 sets of needles. Don’t worry though. I’ve added a number of photos to help you along. There’s even a few videos for specific stitches and techniques on YouTube if you need extra help.

If you would prefer a printable, ad-avoiding version, you can download the PDF version of this pattern for a small fee/donation. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Ribbed Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Adults. You can also get it at a number of other online retailers such as RavelryCreativeFabrica, DeviantArt and Etsy. There is also the Kindle and Paperback versions available on Amazon.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use the buttons below to do so easily.

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough).

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers. (You can watch the embedded video in the Hints and Tips section too).

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

The Pattern

Cast on 42 (46, 46, 50)

♠ Row 1: P across

Row 2: K across ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ for a total of 8 rows

♫ Row 9: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 9 (10, 10, 11) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).

Row 10: K across ♫ Repeat from ♫ to ♫ for a total of 10 (10, 12, 12) rows.

Next Row: Repeat row 9.

Toe Flap

Next Row: Pass the next 14 (16, 16, 18) sts on to a stitch holder. K1 M1 K12 M1 K1. Leave the remaining sts unworked on your non-working needle. Turn

♣ ☺ Next Row: P3 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. P1

Next Row: K across. ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 12 (12, 14, 14) times more.

Repeat the row marked with ☺. 28 (28, 36, 36) rows for the toe flap.

Making the Sides

Next Row: Put the sts on the stitch holder back on a knitting needle. With the RIGHT side facing and with your first needle, K14 (16, 16, 18). Pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the first st of the stockinette stripe and in the M1.

Right side of slipper

With your second needle along the sts of the toe flap, K2tog (To make it blend more into the slipper, pick up the first st as if to knit, twist this st and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit this and the next st together going from RIGHT to LEFT. You can also knit the 2 sts together as you normally would if you want.) K12 K2tog (as you normally would).

With your third needle, pick up 16 (16, 20, 20) sts evenly along the toe flap. Be sure to pick up a st in the M1 and the first st of the stockinette stripe. K14 (16, 16, 20).

Left side of the slipper. (I accidentally dropped the next 2 sts when taking the photo)

Your 3 needles will look like this

♥ Next Row: K2 (0, 0, 2) ♦ P2, K2 ♦ Repeat from ♦ to ♦ 17 (18, 20, 21) times more. P0 (2, 2, 0).

Next Row: K across ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 2 (3, 4, 5).

With the WRONG side facing you, cast off 30 (32, 36, 38) sts. (Maintain the P2 K2 pattern while casting off) P1 ◘ K2 P2 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ two times more. Cast off the remaining sts maintaining the P2 K2 pattern. Bind off 

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Making the Sole

If you need more help than the photos provide below, you can watch the how-to video embedded here. The video starts in the correct section. No need to find the spot. I already have it cued up for you. The video is for a different style of slipper, but it is made EXACTLY the same way.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Your slipper will look like the slipper above. (I’m using a similar design to more clearly show the cast off stitches.) 

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - picking up stitches
How to knit slippers

Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - Picking up stitches

Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

ʤ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Working your way down the sides
Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.

Next Row: Knit across ʤ

Repeat from ʤ to ʤ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Making the Heel

You’re now going to make a small triangle to fit in the back of the heel. You’re going to fill this space in the slipper by working on the 14 sole sts already on your needle, and picking up a st on each side of the needle.

I’ve made a specific video showing how to make the heel. It’s for a number of different styles, but it works the same for all. 

Please note: the video decreases every other row. This pattern calls for decreasing EVERY row after the first one or two rows (depending on size). I’ve included photos but if you are still confused, please watch the video embedded below.

Child moccasin slippers - Picking up stitches to make the heel.
Child moccasin slippers - Picking up stitches to make the heel.

♠ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♠ Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 0 (0, 1, 1) time.

◘ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch along the side closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next row: Knit across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the side. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Hints and Tips

I make my K2tog a little differently at the top of the toe only because how the t looks when you knit the two together can look off. I’m very picky though. It doesn’t really matter.

When picking up the first 2 and last 2 sts along the toe, you don’t have to go through the M1. Once again, I’m just overly particular about what it looks like. What works for you will be fine.

There is a lot of breaking and rejoining of yarn with this pattern. I have made a complete tutorial showing How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can watch the video right here.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 sts together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist slightly. Place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch this video to see how. 

Like all of my patterns, you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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Crocheted Sun Hat and Bucket Hat – FREE Crochet Pattern

Crochet hat pattern - sun hat bucket hat cowboy hat

Gussy it up or wear it plain, this crocheted hat pattern is extremely versatile and makes hats for nearly anyone. Anyone but my 14 year old son apparently, who said, with his usual unenthusiastic honesty, “I don’t like it but it fits OK”. How do I know this? I needed to borrow his head to see how the smaller size fit and felt when wearing, so I guess it’s at least fit approved ¯\_(‘~’)_/¯

This hat can be made a number of ways, either as a wider brimmed sun hat with a flower, plain with the brim shaped similar to a cowboy/cowgirl hat, or with a narrower brim to be a bucket hat. Any way you choose is going to be a success! It’s easy to make, and as long as you know the basics of crochet. Literally if you know how to chain, single crochet (sc) and do a slip stitch (sl st), you’ll be able to make the hat. The flower can be a bit more tricky but I’ve included many photos and detailed descriptions to help you along.

The hat is made with 2 strands worsted weight yarn (or one strand of super bulky yarn) and a larger crochet hook. The stitches need to be fairly tight so the hat will hold it’s shape. Anything larger than the gauge given will make it floppy and the sizing may not work out as written. But, like all my patterns, play with it! If you want a floppy hat, no one said you can’t.

There aren’t any specific measurements for the hat sizing. It’s all very general as there is some stretch to the hat when finished and will form to fit the head it’s covering. If you want your hat to fit a little looser, go for the bigger size. 

The way I thought of it when I was designing this hat, if it fit the glass head, it’s a small/medium size. In other words, a regular sized head. If it fits me and looks a little too big on the glass head, it’s a large/extra large. Let me put it this way. I know I have a big head. If you have ever thought you too might have a big head because hats don’t always fit you, hello fellow large head! If this statement makes no sense to you, go for the small/medium.

If you are looking to make the flower and the leaves, they each have their own page on the website. This pattern turned into a bit of a beast as it is. Both patterns are included with the printable PDF version of the sun and bucket hat.

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

If you would like to avoid the ads on this page or would like to print the pattern, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee from this website at Sun Hat with Gorgeous Flower or Simple Bucket Hat – Printable Crochet Pattern, through my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts or on Ravelry.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

Abbreviations

Ch – chain

sc – single crochet

sl st – slip stitch

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble crochet

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Things You Need:

6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook (or what ever size hook you need to get the correct gauge)

3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook for top edging, flowers and leaves (all optional)

2 balls Worsted Weight yarn or 1 ball Super Bulky yarn (for the hat itself)

For the sun hat you’l need:

106 gr or 3.7 oz each of the worsted weight colours (216 m or 237 yards)

or

173 gr or 6 oz Super Bulky yarn (170 m or 185 yards) of course it’s less yarn for the bucket hat.

Worsted weight yarn (for band, flowers, leaves and edging)

Stitch markers (at least 8 but it never hurts to have more. See Hints and Tips section)

Tapestry needle (to sew band and flowers, work in the ends)

Gauge

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn

13 sts = 4”

14 rows = 4”

Check your gauge to obtain correct sizing and density of the final fabric created. The stitching needs to be tight to hold the hat shape.

Small/Medium

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…

Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)

Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.

Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)

Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. 

Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)

Round 8: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (66 sts)

Round 9: Sc around in the back loop.

Crochet in back of loop
Crochet in back of loop

Round 10-20: Sc around.

Round 21: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (77 sts)

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch). 

  • If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!

Round 22: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Sc in the last st. (or crochet as many stitches as you have at the end of the round). (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).

Round 23: 4sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around (Crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round but there should be 0).

Round 24: *10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. 2sc (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round). 

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 31.

Round 25: 5sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 8sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

Round 26: Sc around.

Round 27: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.

Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.

Round 28: Sc around.

Round 29: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around. 

Round 30: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.

Round 31: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Top or Crown Edging (Optional)

With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn

In the loops left from Round 9, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Work in all ends.

Large/Extra Large 

With 2 strands of worsted weight yarn or 1 strand of super bulky yarn and your 6 mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook…

Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)

Round 1: 12sc around. Do NOT join. The following rounds are worked without joining.

Round 2: Sc in first sc of previous round. 2sc in the next stitch. *Sc in next stitch. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around. Place stitch marker. (18 sts)

Round 3: *2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 4: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. 

Round 5: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 6: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker.

Round 7: *3sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 2sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (54 sts)

Round 8: *5sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (63 sts)

Round 9: *8sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (70 sts)

Round 10: Sc around in the back loop. 

Crochet in back of loop
Crochet in back loop

Round 11-23: Sc around.

Round 24: *4sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to stitch marker. (84 sts)

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT, crochet these stitches as you normally would (through both loops of the stitch). 

  • If you are making the SUN HAT, crochet these stitches through the front loop ONLY!

Round 25: *9sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around to the beginning of the row. (Mark each increase with a stitch marker as you go for a total of 8 markers. You will use these later on. I’m no longer giving final stitch counts. See the Hints and Tips section for clarification if needed).

Round 26: 6sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 10sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 5sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

Round 27: *11sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 3 more times. 

***Please note – If you are making the BUCKET HAT sc around and continue on the Round 34.

Round 28: 6sc. 2sc in the next stitch. *12sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 13sc. 2sc in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * around 2 more times. 12sc. 2sc in the next stitch. 7sc. (or crochet as many stitches as you have to the end of the round).

Round 29: Sc around.

Round 30: *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would. Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch.* Repeat from * to * around.

Other ways to state this round…Increase 4 times evenly around. Or…Increase every other stitch marker.

Round 31: Sc around.

Round 32: *Sc to the next stitch marker. 2sc in this stitch. *Sc to the next stitch marker. Sc as you normally would.* Repeat from * to * around. 

Round 33: Sc around and join with a slip stitch. Tie off and break yarn.

Round 34: With the inside of the hat facing you and with one strand of worsted weight yarn and the same hook you made the hat with, sc around. Join with a sl st. Tie off and break yarn.

Top or Crown Edging (Optional)

With 3.5 mm (US 4 or E) crochet hook and a single strand of worsted weight yarn

In the loops left from Round 10, sc in each stitch around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Work in all ends.

Band (Optional)

With a single strand of worsted weight yarn and your large 6mm (US 10 or J) crochet hook: 

Small/Medium – Chain 74 

Large/Extra Large – Chain 79

In second chain from hook, sc in each chain. Bring the ends of the band together and sc in the first sc of previous row. Be sure not to twist. We are now working in rounds. 

Round 2-3: Sc around. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn.

Working in the bottom loop of the original chains…

Work 3 rounds of sc evenly. Join with a slip st. Tie off and break yarn. Work in ends. Attach to the hat sewing the bottom edge of the band to where the brim joins the hat.

Add flowers or other embellishments of your choice.

Click a button to go to the flowers and leaf patterns

Hints and Tips

Colour choice of the 2 different worsted weight yarns can make a huge difference to your final hat. I mixed 2 tones of one colour for the cowboy/cowgirl hat, white and beige for the yellow flower hat, camo and black for the camo bucket hat. Variegated yarns should be used with a solid colour of yarn for the best effect.

Stitch markers make this so much easier. Pieces of yarn also work. I like to use a single bobby pin to note where the round starts and use regular stitch markers for where I’m making the increases. 

Using stitch markers for the sun hat

In regards to the stitch markers, if you don’t want to use the stitch counts given for the rows, you can use the stitch markers instead. Think of it as increase 8 times evenly around. I did the math to figure out what was even spacing and to stagger the increases between the rows around the brim for the crochet purists.

I like to move my start of the round stitch marker as I make each row (the bobby pin in the photos). I leave the increases for the brim where they are. It makes things go a little quicker and avoids keeping track of stitch counts.

Speaking of stitch counts. This is crocheted in the round, meaning if your stitch counts become a little off, too many or not enough between the increases, it will still work out in the long run. I gave the number of stitches between the increases mainly to avoid repeating increases along the brim. It looked very noticeable and unsightly to me when the increases in increases lined up, but I’m a bit of a stickler for things like that. If you could care less how it look, have at it!

Edging is done with worsted weight yarn! If you are using a double strand of worsted weight yarn, select one of the colours and go with that. If you are using Super Bulky yarn, you’ll need to use any complimentary colour of worsted weight yarn you like. You don’t need very much.

Why I made the band the way I did. It’s very easy to twist the band if you join the chain right away. It’s considerably easier to avoid this if you sc in each chain first then bring the ends together.

The cowboy/cowgirl hat is the sun hat but with the brim formed into a more familiar cowboy hat style. 

Crochet cowboy hat - free crochet pattern

The band on the cowboy/cowgirl hat has daisy chain embellishments. You can either embroider them on or use your crochet hook. Place your yarn at the back of the band and pull up a loop to the front. Push your hook through the next hole and pull up a loop. Keep going down the length of the band.

Crochet band for the cowboy and sun hat

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the physical items that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

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Snug Slip-On Slippers – Easy Slippers to Knit on Straight Needles – FREE Knitting Pattern

Snug Slip-on Knit Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

A great pattern for someone just learning to knit. If you know how to purl, knit, K2tog, M1 and cast on, you will be able to make these slippers. And if you don’t, don’t worry. I’ve included links to the videos that show you exactly how to do the stitches.

These minimal cuff, snug fitting slippers for adults fit folks up to a men’s size 14. Big enough to fit nearly everyone. Knit flat on a pair of straight needles, you don’t need any extra supplies to get these done. If you are an experienced knitter, you’ll be able to whip these up in no time.

Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell or give away any of the patterns that you make. All I ask that you respect the hard work that goes into designing and publishing a pattern and not violate my copyright.

If you would prefer a printable or ad free version of this pattern, you can get it in all the usual places including this website here – Snug Slip-On Slippers, through my Etsy shopLoveCrafts, Amazon, Google Books, Patreon,  Ravelry, or my newest place Creative Fabrica. If the links aren’t working, I’m in the process formatting and uploading to the retailer.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

Love the free patterns? You can say thanks in a couple of ways. You can read more about how you can Support My Work by clicking that link or make a small donation and Buy Me a Coffee. ?? That is a website where you can make a one time donation as a thanks. (FYI I have some great offers if you would like to buy me multiple coffees. You can see those by clicking on the Extras tab or you can click this link Janis Frank Extras).

If you don’t want to or are unable to make a financial donation, sharing this pattern through social media is a great way to help out too! The links below are a super easy way for you to do so.

Things You will Need

7oz (198 g) worsted weight yarn. Any standard ball of yarn you can get at craft or big box stores will be more than enough with yarn to spare.

Set of size 6 US (4 mm) single pointed knitting needles

Tapestry needle – to sew seams and work in ends.

Gauge

In garter stitch

2” (10 cm) – 9 stitches

2” (10 cm) – 18 rows

Sizes are written as such:

Women 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14)

Abbreviations

If you need help with any of the stitches, you can go to my how-to video page. Here’s the link – Learn to Knit With Videos. A new page will open so you’re sure to not lose this one.

K – knit

P – purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

M1 – Make 1. Increase one stitch between stitches.

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Heel Flap

Cast on 4

K across for 10 (10, 12, 12, 14) rows.

Next row: K1 M1. K across to last st. M1. K1.

Next 3 rows: K across * Repeat from * to * until there are 14 (14, 14, 16, 16) sts. Make sure to knit the 3 rows after the increase row. Cast on an additional 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts. 28 (29, 30, 33, 34) sts total.

Next row: K across. Cast on another 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) sts. 42 (44, 46, 50, 52) sts total.

Next row: K5 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K5. 

♠ Next row: K across.

Next row: K5 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K5 ♠

Repeat from ♠ to ♠ 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times more for a total of 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) rows.

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Form Toe

♦ Next row: K2tog. K across to the last 2 sts. K2tog.

Next row: K4 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K4.

Next row: Repeat row marked with ♦.

Next row: K3 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K3.

Next row: Repeat row marked with ♦.

Next row: K2 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K2.

Next row: Repeat row marked with ♦.

Next row: K1 P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P9 (10, 11, 12, 13) K1.

♣ Next row: K across.

Next row: P10 (11, 12, 13, 14) K14 (14, 14, 16, 16) P10 (11, 12, 13, 14). ♣ Repeat from ♣ to ♣ 7 (7, 7, 8, 9) times morefor a total of 16 (16, 16, 18, 20) rows.

End Toe

Next row: K0 (1, 0, 1, 0) K2tog to last st (if there is one). K0 (1, 0, 1, 0)

Next row: P5 (6, 6, 7, 7) K7 (7, 6, 7, 8 ) P5 (6, 6, 7, 7).

Next row: K1 (0, 0, 1, 1) K2 tog 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) times, K1, K2tog to last st (if there is one). K1 (0, 0, 0, 0).

Next row: P3 (3, 3, 4, 3) K4 P3 (3, 3, 4, 4).

Break yarn and draw through.

Flip up the triangle-ish shaped flap in the back of the slipper to form the heel. Sew along the sides of the heel flap to form the back of the slipper. 

Make another slipper to match.

Hints and Tips

When ending the toe, due to the differing number of stitches for the various sizes, there may or may not be an extra stitch that needs working at the ends. I’ve marked the sizes accordingly.

The heel flap may not match up perfectly with the sides of the slipper but it will be close. Hold the garter edges at the top to make sure it lines up to form the cuff.

Leave a length of yarn when casting on and after you draw the yarn through when forming the toe. You can use it to sew the seams along one of the sides of the heel and along the top of the toe.

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Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children – FREE Knitting Pattern and How-to Video!

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - Knit on Straight Needles

After a bit of math and a little tweaking of the results, the child sizes of the FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern is finally available! (You can click that link if you need the adult sizes). Because these are made for little feet, they often don’t need much yarn. This makes them a great way to use up the smaller leftover bits from larger projects. Not to mention, these tend to sell like hotcakes at local farmers’ markets, craft fairs and consignment shops. The smaller pairs are “so cute” making for an easy sale and the return on the investment of your time is great! They’re quick to make and since the yarn has already been bought for a larger project, anything made from the leftovers, like these child shippers, is gravy, baby!

If you stumbled upon this post looking for a finished pair of slippers, I have them for sale in my Etsy shop. Prices vary depending on size. You can use this link – CUSTOM MADE Hand Knit Camo House Slippers – Slippers for Children – Kids Moccasin Booties – Slippers with a Cuff – Handcrafted House Shoes

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If you can’t help financially, I totally get it. Sharing on your social media is the next best thing.

And yes, you have my permission to sell or give away anything you make from my patterns. You’re just not allow to redistribute any of the patterns themselves in any form. Linking to and sharing is always welcome though! You can use those buttons ?? to do so easily.


Please note, this isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles, but no worries! I included photos and now a how-to video demonstrating how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

And if you are concerned with the number of ends you’ll need to weave in when done, I’ve also created a tutorial to help you with that too! It’s so much easier to work the ends in as you go, though there will be a few you’ll have to do (i.e. when you sew up the seam for the heel), but if you are interested in easing your work load, here’s the link showing you How to Weave in the Ends While Knitting. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page ?. There’s also a clickable card in the scrolling free pattern pics running across the top of this website if you need to find the page again.

If you don’t want to read it online and want to print it, this knitting pattern is available in all the usual places including this website – Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children, Ravelry, in my Etsy shop, LoveCrafts, a paperback on Amazon, and as an ePub that you can download on your Kindle. I’ll link to all of them as I get them completed and uploaded to the retailers. If a link isn’t working, it’s on its way. I need to reformat everything to get things on Amazon…

FYI I’m working at uploading my work to a distributor that also works with libraries. I’m publishing paperbacks of the patterns that you’ll be able to borrow! Some are available right now like the slipper and fingerless glove compilations I have. The single pattern paperbacks should be available as I get them uploaded and the distributor gets them out to the libraries. If they aren’t there now, you can always ask them to get it for you ?

The printable version of this pattern will also be in the member section and at Patreon also. Here are the links where you can get it.

Abbreviations

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. I really enjoying watching how the colours pool on the finished project. Little weird, I know… And In case you were thinking of trying self-striping yarn. Don’t. It looks terrible.

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart and Bernat worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Use this product to help prevent slippers from sliding on slick floors

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows


Sizes (are written as such)

Child’s 1-2 (3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3, 4-5)

I’m using a colour code to denote the number of stitches for the various sizes. I hope this helps when making the sizes of slippers.

SizeLength
1-24 inches10 cm
3-44.5 inches11.4 cm
5-65 inches12.5 cm
7-85 3/4 inches14.5 cm
9-106 inches15 cm
11-126 3/4 inches17 cm
13-17 1/4 inches18.5 cm
2-38 1/4 inches21 cm
4-58 3/4 inches22 cm
All measurements are approximate. Knitted slippers are very forgiving for size and foot shape.

To Begin

Cast on 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34)

Knit across for 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20, 20) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) to create the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 6 (6, 8, 8,10, 10, 10, 12, 12) toe flap stitches only!

Knit across for 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 30, 32, 36, 40) rows.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit these stitches. Pick up 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are now on ONE needle – 15 (17, 18, 20, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31) stitches

With another needle, knit the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the other needle unworked for now.

With another needle, pick up 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the next needle. There are now 15 (17, 18, 20, 21, 24, 26, 28, 31) stitches on this needle.

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Knitting on 4 Needles
I used double pointed needles because they were handy and I don’t like the longer needles flopping and waggling about while I knit. Regular knitting needles work perfectly fine, too!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows.

There are 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the sizes 2-3 and 4-5.

How to knit slippers
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap
Ridges for child slippers
The 2 ridges for small size 1-2 and 3-4.

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11) stitches of the toe flap.

Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Making the Sole

If you need help with making the sole, picking up stitches along the side etc, you can watch this video. It starts exactly where you need it to.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - picking up stitches
How to knit slippers
Pick up this stitch at the start of the row.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. – 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches

Knitted Moccasin Bootie Slippers for Children - Picking up stitches
Pick up this stitch at the end of the row.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

? Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. – 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches 

Working your way down the sides
Keep working your way down the slipper to make the sole.

Next Row: Knit across ?

Repeat from ? to ? in every stitch down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Starting the sole. Right side. This is shows the adult size but will have less stitches for child sizes.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.
Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches.

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Making the Heel

If you need help with making the heel, you can watch the video. It starts where you need it to. As mentioned in the video, you’ll need to follow how to decrease with the pattern as written below.

If You Have 6 Stitches

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog 3 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Child moccasin slippers - Picking up stitches to make the heel.
Child moccasin slippers - Picking up stitches to make the heel.
Owl Slippers knitting pattern
The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. These are rows you knit to form the edges of the slipper. 
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Stitch picked up on the right edge in the 9th row shown above
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
After you K2tog at the end of the row, you’ll pick up a stitch here.
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Stitch picked up on the left or end of the row.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

If You Have 8 Stitches

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog 4 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side. (Scroll up to the “If you have 6 stitches” section to see the photos if you need help).

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

If you have 10 or More Stitches

♀️ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (Scroll up to the “If you have 6 stitches” section to see the photos if you need help).

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♀️ Repeat from ♀️ to ♀️ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Because smaller kid-lettes tend to have chunkier legs (aka – cankles ?), which is so gosh-darn cute btw, don’t go too crazy with the length.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is roughly 1 stitch every ridge.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. And yes, this is the third time I’m sharing it, but I made a photo tutorial showing how to do this. You can see it here – How to Work in the Ends as You Knit.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something. Especially on the smaller slippers that involve so many different stitch counts for the numerous sizes.

To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work!  A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely ?


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How to Crochet Leaves – FREE Crochet Pattern to Make a Leaf for Sun Hat

FREE Crochet Leaf Pattern

This crocheted leaf pattern was designed to go along with a flower made for my sun hat (Crochet sun hat pattern coming soon!). As I was getting the photos ready, I was thinking how these could also be used to highlight many things, especially a crocheted wreath for autumn. I like how the leaves look in the variety of fall colours.

The leaves by themselves aren’t really much to look at. I didn’t want them to be. I want them to be fill behind the flowers highlighting the flowers themselves.

I’m going to add buttons so you can easily go to the pages with the flower pattern and the hat (when it’s done).

This pattern isn’t available alone as a downloadable and printable PDF. It will be included with the sunhat/bucket hat/cowboy/cowgirl hat along with the flower. It was easier to divide the hat, flower and leaf into separate pages on the website.

If you know someone you think would like this post, by all means, share it! The more eyeballs on my work the better. If you are enjoying the free patterns, this is a great way to support my work. You can also Buy Me A Coffee or check out the other options when you check out the Help Support My Work page. If you’re looking for something new to share with your friends on your website or on social media, these links will help you do it.

The hints and tips for how to finish and press the flowers is written below the pattern. You can also ask any questions in the comments section.

Abbreviations

ch – chain 

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble crochet

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Things You Need

Worsted weigh yarn (small quantities from your stash)

3.5 mm (US E or 4) crochet hook.

Stitch marker. (A piece of yarn or bobby pin will do).

The Pattern

Please note: 

The rounds end in various places on the bottom of the leaf. Regardless, the stitch counts work. Round 4 evens out the stitches giving the leaf shape.

Ch 2 (make the first chain large enough to fit in all the stitches for Round 1)

Round 1: 11sc in 2nd chain from hook. Do NOT join. Begin to work in the round.

Round 2: In the 1st sc from the last round, sc. 2sc in the next st. In the next st, sc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, dc. 2dc in the next 2 sts. In the next st, dc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, sc. 2sc in the next st. Sc.

Round 3: *2sc in the next st, sc* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. In the next st, sc, hdc. (Mark the hdc with a stitch marker). In the next st, hdc, dc. 2dc in the next st. In the next st, dc, trc. In the next st, trc, dc. 2dc in the next st. In the next st, dc, hdc. In the next st, hdc, sc. *Sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 2 more times.

Round 4: *2sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 2 more times. (Or as many sc as you need to get to the stitch marker). Sc in the stitch marked with the marker. As you normally would, proceed as follows, hdc, 4dc. In the next st (the 1st trc from the previous round), dc, trc. Ch 2 sl st in the 2nd chain from hook. In the next st, trc, dc. As you normally would, proceed as follows, 4dc, hdc, sc. *2sc, 2sc in the next st* Repeat from * to * 4 more times. 2Sc. Sl st in the next st. Break yarn. Tie off.

Work in the ends and sew into place.

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Hints and Tips

Add extra embroidered details to the leaves as you see fit. Maybe some extra veining lines or stitches around the edge in a slightly darker shade? It really is up to you.

As much as I wanted to avoid pressing anything, the leaves also need to be pressed to have them lie flat. Be sure to do a test swatch BEFORE you press anything. Acrylic is notorious for melting and losing all constructive properties when pressed. It melts to give a flat, melted look. Press with your iron at the lowest setting possible. Press with a damp cloth between the iron and the leaf. Iron the leaves from the BACK only! 

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FREE Knitting Pattern – Winter Beanie Toque or Touque or Tuque with Vertical Stripes

Free Knitting Pattern - Toque, Touque, Beanie with vertical stripes

It wasn’t until this very moment in my life that I realized that naming a knitting pattern for winter headgear was going to be complicated. For those that don’t know about the internet and how information is found, writers have to write around keywords so web crawlers can find the information. I won’t bore you any further with that, but it does cause some, indecision, shall we say, when it comes to naming this knitting pattern. As it so happens, there are at least 3 ways to spell what I know as a touque. I’m Canadian. That’s what we call it and how I have always spelled it. My autocorrect on the other hand, is calling me a doofus and insists that it’s toque. In a state of mild rage I went to the internet to see what’s what in regard to this winter hat dilemma. Turns out there is a third option: tuque. What the actual “f”?! 

I do realize that a lot of people generally refer to winter headwear as beanies. TBH that to me is a more tight fitting winter hat that conforms to the shape of your head and NEVER has a pom pom. These are the manly toques worn under hooded things like hoodies and winter jackets, especially when it gets really cold outside.

This pattern is different from most touque patterns I’ve seen and knit up over the years. I’m a little obsessed with short rows this last couple of months. So far I’ve made dishcloths and coasters and slippers using this technique. Instead of casting on all the stitches you’ll need to go around the head, this touque is knit from the forehead to the crown or top of the head. It’s still knit flat, with the shaping of the head being worked as you go. It also gives a neat vertical striping effect if you’re using self striping yarn. And just so you know, the smaller the stripes the narrower the stripes on the toque. 

If you would prefer a printed copy of this pattern, there are a couple options for you. No, you don’t need to message me how you’re up in arms that you can’t print this webpage. You can keep scrolling down this page and read the pattern row by row on your phone or tablet in the comfort of your chair as you knit. A printed copy is a preference but not necessary to read and use this pattern.

If you would like a formatted, printable copy, you can purchase it from this website – Easy Knitting Pattern – Winter Beanie Toque/Touque/Tuque with Vertical Stripes, my Etsy shop, Ravelry, Google Books, Love Crafts and from Amazon for Kindle and as a paperback. Be sure you pick the correct country so shipping for your paperback is free if you are an Amazon Prime member.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you like the vertical stripes but have no self striping yarn, I’ve marked in the pattern where to change the colours. This makes this touque a great project to use up all those left over bits of yarn from other projects. I keep them too. I just can’t bring myself to throw out those bits. I always feel I’ll find a use for them.

But enough. You’re here to knit…

Things You Need:

Worsted weight yarn – a standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). It may need to be more if you want a big, dense and fluffy pom pom.

Size 5 mm (size 8 US) knitting needles or whatever you need to acquire the correct gauge.

Tapestry needle to sew the seam and work in the ends

Pom pom maker – or you can use the two pieces of cardboard method. I’m sure there’s a video on YouTube showing how to do this.

Gauge

In stockinette 

9 sts – 5 cm (2″) 

12 rows – 5 cm (2”) 

Sizes are for small, medium and large and are written as such sm (med, lg).

Small – 21 inches

Medium – 22.5 inches

Large – 24 inches

Sizing is always general for knitting as it has a fair amount of stretch to it and tends to contract and expand as needed.

Abbreviations

K – knit

P – purl 

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Starting the Toque, Touque, Tuque, Beanie….*Sigh* I give up SMH

Cast on 39 (45, 48)

Row 1: P9 (12, 12) K30 (33, 36)

Row 2: P30 (33, 36) K9 (12, 12)

♥ Row 3: K37 (43, 46) (leave last 2 sts unworked. Turn).

leave 2 stitches unworked
Leave last 2 stitches unworked
Flip and knit

Row 4: P28 (31, 34) K9 (12, 12)

Row 5: P9 (12, 12) K27 (30, 33) (leave last 3 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 6: P27 (30, 33) K9 (12, 12)

Row 7: K35 (41, 44) (leave last 4 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 8: P26 (29, 32) K9 (12, 12)

Row 9: P9 (12, 12) K25 (28, 31) (leave last 5 sts unworked. Turn). ** Break yarn and change colour here if desired.

Row 10: P25 (28, 31) K9 (12, 12)

Row 11: K35 (41, 44) (leave last 4 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 12: P26 (29, 32) K9 (12, 12)

Row 13: P9 (12, 12) K27 (30, 33) (leave last 3 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 14: P27 (30, 33) K9 (12, 12)

Row 15: K37 (43, 46) (leave last 2 sts unworked. Turn).

Row 16: P28 (31, 34) K9 (12, 12)

Row 17: P9 (12, 12) K30 (33, 36) **Break yarn and change colour here if desired. 

(No need to colour change if this is the last of your repeats. Stop here and cast off on the wrong side if all repeats are complete.)

Row 18: P30 (33, 36) K9 (12, 12) ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 6 times more for a total of 7 times.

You’ll have 7 lines dividing the sections when you look at the toque from the top.

The seven sections. Stitches around the top hole are NOT drawn together.

Sew up the seams, draw the top center stitches together. You don’t need to add a pom pom, but I think it looks a lot better with one.

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Hints and Tips

Any type of yarn will work for this project. It doesn’t have to be striped just because that’s how I did it. A solid colour would look just as good. Another option it to use the ombre yarns that gently shift from one colour to another. It’s nice to be able to make a beanie that has the colour transition go up and down instead of the usual horizontal way.

Colour changes have to be done in groups of 2 or 7 colours if you want to maintain the proper sequence. For example: black, white, black white, black white, etc. for 2 colours. If you want 7 different colours it would have to be something like: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, black and then repeat those colours again in that order. Of course, it you’re using up leftover yarn and aren’t repeating colours, it doesn’t matter. 

Another way to think of it…there are 14 possible colour sections to this winter hat. Any number that fits equally into 14 can be repeated in sequence around the hat. 

When making colour changes, you can work in the ends as you go for the first colour change. I show how to do that here – How to Work in the Ends While Knitting. You can also work them in with the tapestry needle when done.

The second colour change occurs at the top of the hat. I tie and knot the ends of the yarn together as I change colour. When done, I thread them up and through the pom pom and cut off the dangly bits so they blend in with it. The knots are above the crown of the head and don’t actually touch the scalp. It’s an easy, time saving short cut. 

Like all my patterns, you have my permission to sell, give away or keep any of the physical items you make. You are NOT permitted to reproduced this pattern in any way, including but not limited to, all digital or physical copies.

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FREE Knitting Pattern – Minimalist Round Toe Slippers

Free Knitting Pattern - Round Toe Slippers

I’ve been looking to simplify my Adult Moccasin Slippers for some time now. I wanted to design a minimalist style slippers that were knit on a single set of knitting needles, without the sewing of seams (which I try to avoid at all costs, btw). I also wanted to keep any tricky techniques to a minimum. With this pattern, there are no additional sets of needles required, and no knitting in the round on double pointed needles (DPN) to make the edging.

And because there is a bit of starting and stopping when making the sections, this leaves a number of ends to sew in. I strongly recommend working in your ends while you knit. If you don’t know how to do that, you can check out How to Work in the Ends While Knitting on my website. For a quick how to: hold the yarn on the back of your work (the wrong side) and catch the yarn every other stitch. It totally works and in all the slippers I’ve made over the years, I’ve never had a single complaint about it coming undone.

Please note that in some of the photos showing parts of the slipper, I used double pointed needles. These needles are NOT necessary. I just prefer to use shorter needles when knitting narrow pieces. Regular single pointed needles work just as well.

If you would prefer to print the pattern or have it available offline, you can purchase the PDF for a small fee. You can buy it from this website here – Minimalist Round Toe Knitted Slippers Pattern, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, and Etsy. I also have the ebook available on Google Books and both Kindle and the paperback version on Amazon. Make sure you go to your country if ordering from Amazon.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons ?? to do so easily.

Things You Need

Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles

Worsted weight yarn – any standard ball of yarn will suffice. (I’m a fan of Red Heart and Bernat worsted weight as it is easy to find and economical.)

Tapestry needle – to work in the ends.

Abbreviations

K – knit

K2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Gauge

Make sure you match the gauge or sizing will be off.

18 stitches = 4 inches 

24 rows = 4 inches 

in stockinette

Sizes are written as such:

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

Men’s  5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Starting the Quarter Circle and Side

Cast on 12 (13, 14, 15)

☺ Row 1 – 2: Knit across.

Row 3: K11 (12, 13, 14) Turn work. Leave last stitch unworked.

Row 4: K11 (12, 13, 14)

Row 5: K10 (11, 12, 13) Turn work. Leave last 2 stitches unworked.

Row 6:  K10 (11, 12, 13)

Row 7: K9 (10, 11, 12) Turn work. Leave last 3 stitches unworked.

Row 8: K9 (10, 11, 12)

Row 9: K8 (9, 10, 11) Turn work. Leave last 4 stitches unworked.

Row 10: K8 (9, 10, 11)

Row 11: K7 (8, 9, 10) Turn work. Leave last 5 stitches unworked.

Row 12:  K7 (8, 9, 10)

Row 13: K6 (7, 8, 9) Turn work. Leave last 6 stitches unworked.

Row 14: K6 (7, 8, 9)

Row 15: K5 (6, 7, 8) Turn work. Leave last 7 stitches unworked.

Row 16: K5 (6, 7, 8)

Row 17: K4 (5, 6, 7) Turn work. Leave last 8 stitches unworked.

Row 18: K4 (5, 6, 7)

Stop here for women’s size 6-7 and men’s size 5-6. Eighth of a circle completed. Go to instructions marked with ۞

Row 19: K0 (4, 5, 6) Turn work. Leave last 9 stitches unworked.

Row 20: K0 (4, 5, 6)

Stop here for women’s size 8-9 and men’s size 7-8. Eighth of a circle completed. Go to instructions marked with ۞

Row 21: K0 (0, 4, 5) Turn work. Leave last 10 stitches unworked. 

Row 22: K0 (0, 4, 5)

Stop here for women’s size 10-11 and men’s size 9-10. Eighth of a circle completed. Go to instructions marked with ۞

Row 23: K0 (0, 0, 4) Turn work. Leave last 10 stitches unworked.

Row 24: K0 (0, 0, 4) ☺

Stop here for men’s size 11-12. Eighth of a circle completed.

۞ Come here when indicated to stop for the size you are making. 

Repeat from ☺ to ☺ once to make another eighth of a circle.

First 1/8th of a circle looks like this.
The second 1/8th looks like this. You now have 1/4th of a circle.

When you have made a quarter circle (1/8 + 1/8 = 1/4), start knitting rows as follows:

Next row: Knit across for 40 (42, 46, 50) rows total.

Starting the back and forth rows. What it looks like finished is below.

Cast off.

With the RIGHT side of your work facing you, pick up  12 (13, 14, 15) sts along the original cast on row.

Side finished (but not cast off. Make sure yours is!!)
Picking up the stitch.
Stitch picked up.
Two stitches picked up.
Stitches picked up along the edge.

Repeat from ☺ to ☺ twice.

First repeat.
Second repeat.

Knit across for 40 (42, 46, 50) rows total.

Starting the back and forth rows.
Done the toe and sides.

Cast off.

Edging (Done before sole)

I know it’s a little unconventional to add an edging at this point. This is usually something you do as a last step. But, to keep this slipper pattern as simple as possible, and to not need any other knitting needles or need to know how to knit in the round, we’ll make the edging now. You can use a complimentary colour or the same colour that you are already using. The choice is yours. 

With the RIGHT side of your work facing you, pick up 20 (21, 23, 25) sts along the edge, 7 sts over the curve of the toe and 20 (21, 23, 25) sts along the other edge. 

If you spread the rows apart a bit you can see where to pick up the stitch.
First 2 stitches picked up..
Stitches picked up along edge
It doesn’t have to be perfect. As long as the 7 stitches are picked up evenly in this space it’s ok.
Seven stitches picked up.
All stitches picked up.

Knit (4, 4, 4) rows over the picked up stitches. Cast off loosely on the WRONG side.

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Making the Sole

With the RIGHT side of your work facing you, find the middle seam of the toe. This is the line where you picked up the stitches the first time after making the first quarter section and side strip. Count over 5 (6, 6, 6) ridges. Pick up 11 (13, 13, 13) sts to start the sole. The middle stitch (the 6th (7th, 7th, 7th stitch) should be picked up in the middle seam. 

Stitches picked up. This is the smallest size so there are only 11 stitches.

Next row: Knit across.

♥ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and pick up a stitch in the ridges by the toe flap. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up a stitch in the ridges by the point of your needle. You now have 11 (13, 13, 13) stitches.

Keep picking up a stitch on each side down the entire length to form the sole.

Next row: Knit across. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ down the length of the slipper until there are no ridges left.

As you pick up stitches along the side, the sole will automatically curve around the toe like this.
Keep working your way down the length of the slipper.

Forming the Heel

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you if the photos aren’t enough.

◘ Next row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the cast off stitch closest to the sole of the slipper. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side.

Next row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch in the next cast off stitch. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side.

Next row: Knit across. ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ until 7 stitches remain.

Working up the back of the heel.

Next row: K2tog, Knit 3 stitches together, K2tog.

Next row: Knit the 3 stitches together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

The back of the heel completed.
heels complete
Heels sewn and complete.

Yes, the toe does look a little boxy when they’re not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily. 

Hints and Tips

If you are up in arms about sewing in the ends when you are done, there is away to avoid it. You can work in the ends on the back side of your work as you are knitting. Not sure how to do that? I have a photo tutorial on my website that will show you how – How to Work in the Ends While Knitting

You can add rows to the edging to make more of a cuff if you like. Or you could also do a K1 P1 ribbing over the stitches. I didn’t like how the slipper fit or looked when it was longer. That’s why I didn’t add any photos of it.

If you have picked up a different number of stitches on each side when making the sole, it’s not a big deal as long as it’s only a row or two. I suggest picking up 2 stitches in one row, rather than skipping a row. It’s less noticeable. 

I designed this pattern to have a very minimalist feel to it. Of course, not everyone is into function only wearables. If you want to add pompoms, fancy large buttons or some other decorations, have at it! Be creative and add your personal touch to the design.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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One Piece Knitted Dishcloth and Coasters – FREE Knitting Pattern for Beginners

Easy knitting pattern for beginners - coaster dishcloth

This knitting pattern is very versatile and can be made to be any size of square. For myself, I like it as a dishcloth. But when I started to knit up samples for the photos I realized that this design could transfer into any thing that can be square. Regardless of the size, because of the method of making it, it will always be square regardless of how many, or few, stitches are cast on at the outset. 

And no need to worry about picking up stitches or any other difficult techniques. If you can knit and cast on and cast off, you can make this. It’s not complicated at all.

For myself, I found that 32 stitches made for the perfect size dishcloth and used a little less than one of the smaller balls of cotton yarn. I like mine to be bigger but not unmanageably so. I also found that making a coaster or mini face scrubber, took about 18 stitches. These are just approximate cast on stitch counts. I found that there is some variation in the worsted weight (medium 4) yarn thickness. You may need to add 2 or 3 more cast on stitches if it’s on the thinner side.

I’ve written the pattern to make a dishcloth so started with 32 stitches cast on. A quick tip, if you use a size smaller needle (4 mm or US 6) to cast on, then switch back to the 5 mm (US 8) the starting edge looks a bit more finished and tight.

Another plus about this pattern, I finally designed something that really highlights variegated yarn. I have a great appreciation for the colour changing yarns that are available (I do not have similar feelings towards self striping yarn, but that’s a rant for another time). I found that the variegated yarn did really well with smaller size squares, though I like the pooling of colours when making the larger sized dishcloths as well.

And to sooth my quest for sameness, these washcloths are the same on both sides!! Both sides look pretty much the same. I know in the scheme of things this matters very little, but it somehow screams “correct” to me. I’m weird. I know. 

If you’re looking for an ad free pattern you can download to your computer, tablet or phone you can get that here – this website at One Piece Knitted Dishcloth and Coasters – Great Knitting Pattern for Beginners, LoveCrafts, my Etsy shop or Ravelry for a small fee. It is also available on Amazon Kindle and as a paperback.

Another way to avoid ads and pop-ups, get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and others, is by becoming a Member on this website. When you become a Website Supporter for $3/month, you’ll gain access to exclusive member only posts. These posts contain one click downloads of the patterns. Simply click the Download & Print button. The PDF will automatically download to your computer or smart device. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $3 each month. You can go to this page to learn more, become a member and support my work… Exclusive Member Area

And, yes. I know this pattern becomes very obvious in how to make it once you start knitting. I wrote it out in full regardless, as some people (the few but very vocal) have a tendency to contact me if even the most obvious thing is not mentioned in my patterns. I’m trying to avoid these critical emails, just so you know.

It’s so obvious that you may be able to knit this without the pattern at all. That’s why I made the video. I’m sure some of the more experienced knitters out there will watch the first couple minutes of the video below and be like, “Ya. I got this.”

Things You Need


Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles

1 3/4 oz (42g) ball of 100% cotton worsted weight yarn

Large sewing needle (for working in the ends)

Gauge isn’t really important for this project as sizing is approximate.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

st – stitch

That’s it! This is a VERY simple pattern.

The Pattern

Cast on 32 (You will always have 32 stitches on your needle when the right side is facing you)

Row 1 – 2: Knit across

Row 3: K31. Leave the last stitch unworked. Turn.

Leave a stitch
Flip and knit
Back side of work always looks like normal knitting when the row is completed

Row 4: K31.

Row 5: K30. Leave the last 2 stitches unworked. Turn.

leave 2 stitches unworked

Row 6: K30.

Row 7: K29. Leave the last 3 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 8: K29.

Row 9: K28. Leave the last 4 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 10: K28.

Row 11: K27. Leave the last 5 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 12: K27.

Row 13: K26. Leave the last 6 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 14: K26.

Row 15: K25. Leave the last 7 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 16: K25.

Row 17: K24. Leave the last 8 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 18: K24.

Row 19: K23. Leave the last 9 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 20: K23.

Row 21: K22. Leave the last 10 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 22: K22.

Row 23: K21. Leave the last 11 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 24: K21.

Row 25: K20. Leave the last 12 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 26: K20.

Row 27: K19. Leave the last 13 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 28: K19.

Row 29: K18. Leave the last 14 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 30: K18.

Row 31: K17. Leave the last 15 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 32: K17.

Row 33: K16. Leave the last 16 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 34: K16.

Row 35: K15. Leave the last 17 stitches unworked. Turn.

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Row 36: K15.

Row 37: K14. Leave the last 18 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 38: K14.

Row 39: K13. Leave the last 19 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 40: K13.

Row 41: K12. Leave the last 20 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 42: K12.

Row 43: K11. Leave the last 21 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 44: K11.

Row 45: K10. Leave the last 22 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 46: K10.

Row 47: K9. Leave the last 23 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 53: K6. Leave the last 26 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 48: K9.

Row 49: K8. Leave the last 24 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 50: K8.

Row 51: K7. Leave the last 25 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 52: K7.

Row 54: K6.

Row 55: K5. Leave the last 27 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 56: K5.

Row 57: K4. Leave the last 28 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 58: K4.

Row 59: K3. Leave the last 29 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 60: K3.

Row 61: K2. Leave the last 30 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 62: K2.

Row 63: K1. Leave the last 31 stitches unworked. Turn.

Two colour knitted square

Halfway Point

If you would like the other half of your square to use a different colour like shown above, attach it now.

Row 64: K1.

Row 65: K2. Leave the last 30 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 66: K2.

Row 67: K3. Leave the last 29 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 68: K3.

Row 69: K4. Leave the last 28 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 70: K4.

Row 71: K5. Leave the last 27 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 72: K5.

Row 73: K6. Leave the last 26 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 74: K6.

Row 75: K7. Leave the last 25 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 76: K7.

Row 77: K8. Leave the last 24 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 78: K8.

Row 79: K9. Leave the last 23 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 80: K9.

Row 81: K10. Leave the last 22 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 82: K10.

Row 83: K11. Leave the last 21 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 84: K11.

Row 85: K12. Leave the last 20 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 86: K12.

Row 87: K13. Leave the last 19 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 88: K13.

Row 89: K14. Leave the last 18 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 90: K14.

Row 91: K15. Leave the last 17 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 92: K15.

Row 93: K16. Leave the last 16 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 94: K16.

Row 95: K17. Leave the last 15 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 96: K17.

Row 97: K18. Leave the last 14 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 98: K18.

Row 99: K19. Leave the last 13 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 100: K19.

Row 101: K20. Leave the last 12 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 102: K20.

Row 103: K21. Leave the last 11 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 104: K21.

Row 105: K22. Leave the last 10 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 106: K22.

Row 107: K23. Leave the last 9 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 108: K23.

Row 109: K24. Leave the last 8 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 110: K24.

Row 111: K25. Leave the last 7 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 112: K25.

Row 113: K26. Leave the last 6 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 114: K26.

Row 115: K27. Leave the last 5 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 116: K27.

Row 117: K28. Leave the last 4 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 118: K28.

Row 119: K29. Leave the last 3 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 120: K29.

Row 121: K30. Leave the last 2 stitches unworked. Turn.

Row 122: K30.

Row 123: K31. Leave the last stitch unworked. Turn.

Row 124: K31.

Row 125: K32. 

Cast off on the WRONG side.

Hints and Tips

If you would like to make smaller squares for coasters or pot scrubbers, cast on fewer stitches. The basic idea for the pattern is to always leave one less stitch done every other row. Once you’re down to one stitch, knit one extra stitch every other row.

I know I mentioned this in the intro but it deserves repeating. If you use a size smaller needle (4 mm or US 6) to cast on, then switch back to the 5 mm (US 8) the starting edge looks a bit more finished and tight.

You don’t have to use cotton yarn if you’re going to make coasters. An acrylic or wool blend would also work well. And you can also use up some of your yarn stash this way too. Great little things to sell at a garage sale, or craft fair and recoup a little of the money already spent on the yarn.

Use these squares for anything! As long as your yarn is the same thickness and type, all acrylic let’s say, you could easily use up your last little yarn bits to make an afghan or throw blanket. I don’t quilt but I know that triangles and squares make up a good portion of quilt designs. Knitting squares that are two colours along the diagonal put together the solid coloured squares could make some very interesting patterns.

These also make good trivets or pot holders for taking things out of the oven, but only if… they are NOT wet and are made of 100% cotton. Any acrylic or polyester blend will melt to the pot and possible fingers, counter tops or tables. And ain’t nobody got time for that!!

Like all my work, you are permitted to sell, give away or keep whatever physical items you make using this pattern. You do NOT have permission to copy or redistribute this pattern (or any of my patterns) in any form either digitally or physically. That includes printed copies of the pattern either as photos or any file format.

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Easy to Knit Rolled Cuff Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Easy to Knit One Piece Rolled Cuff Slippers - free knitting pattern

I’ve written a number of slipper patterns over the years with a couple of goals in mind, two goals to be specific. The first is to never have any seams to sew. This pattern didn’t meet this requirement. I offer a heartfelt apology for this. 

The other goal is to make them as easy as possible so new knitters or those with not as much experience, can knit something that gives a great final product. This pattern was written specifically to avoid any difficult techniques, specifically, picking up stitches. That is why this pattern is done in one piece; starting at the heel and working towards the toe. 

The cuff is made as you knit the piece. Because of the stitches used, it automatically rolls back up on itself giving a nice finished edge without adding any additional stitches or work.

I also made a longer cuffed version of this pattern. It fits more like a bootie. You can use this link to check out that slipper design – Easy to Knit – Long Cuffed Slippers. There is also a thicker version of this slipper using 2 strands of yarn. It’s quicker to make and extra thick – Easy to Knit Beginner Slipper Pattern – Knit Flat with Bulky Yarn on Straight Needles – FREE Knitting Pattern

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Things You Need

Yarn (a standard ball of worsted weight yarn will be more than enough)

Size 5 mm (US 8 ) single pointed needles

Tapestry needle to sew seams and work in ends

Gauge(in stockinette)

18 stitches = 4 inches 

24 rows = 4 inches 

Sizes are written as such:

  • Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)
  • Men’s 6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13)

Heel Flap

Cast on 2

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Increase in each stitch. (4 sts)

Row 3 – 4 : Knit across.

Row 5: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (6 sts)

Row 6 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (8 sts)

Row 9 – 10: Knit across.

Row 11: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (10 sts)

Row 12 – 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch. (12 sts)

Row 15 – 16: Knit across.

PLEASE NOTE:

The following rows are for sizes Women’s 10, 11 and 12 and Men’s sizes 9, 10, 11, 12 and 13 ONLY:

Next row: Increase in the first stitch. K until one stitch remains. Increase in this stitch (14 sts)

Next 2 rows: Knit across.

Continue the pattern for all sizes.

Next row: Cast on 16 stitches. (Yes, you already have 12 (12, 14, 14, 14) stitches on your needle. After casting on, you’ll have 28 (28, 30, 30, 30) sts on your needle). The following is worked over the stitches you just cast on and the stitches from the heel. P4 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). As you worked those stitches, your work was transferred onto the other needle. Cast on another 16 sts onto this needle. (You now have 44 (44, 46, 46, 46 sts) on your needle)

♥ Next row: Knit across.

Next row: P4 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 times more. P4. ♥ Repeat from ♥ to ♥ 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) times more for 24, (26, 28, 30, 32) rows total.

Shaping Toe

Next row: K2tog K to the last 2 sts K2tog. (42 (42, 44, 44, 44) sts)

Next row: P3 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P3.

Next row: K2tog K to the last 2 sts K2tog. (40 (40, 42, 42, 42) sts)

Next row: P2 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P2.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: P2 *K3 P1* Repeat from * to * 2 times more. K12 (12, 14, 14, 14). ◘ P1 K3 ◘ Repeat from ◘ to ◘ 2 timesmore. P2. ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺ 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) times more for 26 (28, 30, 32, 34) rows total.

End Toe

Next row: K2tog 10 (10, 11, 11, 11) times. K1 K2tog to last 3 sts. K1 K2tog. 

Next row: P1 K2 *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * once P1 K6 (6, 7, 7, 7) *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * 2 time more. P1.

Next row: K1 K2tog 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) times. K1 (1, 0, 0, 0) times. K2tog until last st. K1

Next row: P1 K1 P3 K3 P4.

Break yarn and pull through. Pull tight to draw loops together.

Sew seam on top of toe and the heel flap to the sides of the slipper (the 16 stitches you cast on earlier) and join the edges of the cuff together in the back above the flap.

Hints and Tips

Sew the seam on the top of the toe up to where you K2tog when shaping the toe. If you don’t like what the join looks like, you can always make a pom pom to cover it.

Leave a longer length of yarn when you first start the slipper. You can use this piece to sew one of the seams along the heel flap. When you end the slipper, leave that yarn length longer too. You can use the length to sew the toe seam.

The sizing of these slippers is very forgiving. The garter stitch used throughout helps the slipper to stretch both width and length wise. If your gauge is off by a row or a stitch, you should be able to get the size of slipper you want.

Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

The pattern allows you to make, sell or give away any of the slippers that you make. You are NOT permitted to redistribute this pattern in any way. The purchase the PDF is for your PERSONAL USE ONLY! Sharing copies of my patterns robs me of what I financially gain from my hard work and creativity that goes into designing my patterns. Please respect my copyright.

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Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Super Cozy Textured Adult Bootie Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

What happens when you cross a slipper with a dishcloth? No, this isn’t a joke. This is exactly what inspired me to design this new slipper. I had recently written and published my latest pattern Textured Easy to Knit Dishcloth Pattern and thought to my self, “That texture is reversible. I bet I could work that into a slipper pattern. But which one?” Then it dawned on me. Because this isn’t a very stretchy texture, it would be slouchy and baggy, but it would have to fit snuggly around the foot to stay on. Then I realized my super popular Free Knitted Moccasin Slipper Pattern does exactly that! And this knitting pattern was born… But enough about the genesis of slipper patterns.

This pattern is written for adult sizes. If there are enough folks that leave a comment requesting child sizes, I’ll happily do it. It involves a lot of math and if there is no demand, I don’t want to put all the effort into it for nothing.

Like always, you can find the ad-free, downloadable, printable PDF version of this pattern through all my regular online purveyors of creation such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts and of course this website at Adult Moccasin Bootie Slippers – Classic Ugg Style – Knitting Pattern.

Another way to get instant, PRINTABLE downloads of this pattern and more, is by becoming a patron and supporting me on Patreon. When you support my work at the $4/month level or higher, the locked posts become visible and you can immediately access the download link. No waiting for an email. Simply click the PDF link at the bottom of the Patreon post and the download is now on your computer, smart phone, tablet or whatever device you’re using. You can then read it on your device or print it at your leisure. You can download as many patterns as you like for the same $4 each month. You can go to this website to become a patron and support my work…https://www.patreon.com/JanisFrank

Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these share links below ?????? and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too.

Things You Need

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 58 (62, 66, 70)

?  Row 1 – 2: K1 P1 across.

Row 3 – 4: K across. ?

Repeat from ? to ? 8 more times. (If you want a longer bootie, make more repeats of these 4 rows.)

Repeat Row 1 – 2 one more time.

Break yarn when completed row 2.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 22 (24, 2628) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and K1 P1 across the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap). Leave the remaining 22 (24, 2628) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

? Next 2 Rows: Knit across.

Next 2 Rows: K1 P1 across. ?

Repeat from ? to ? 6 (7, 8, 9) more times. You now have 28 (32, 36, 40) rows total for the toe flap. 

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 22 (24, 2628) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.

Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around of the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 22 (24, 2628) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and K2tog the 22 (24, 2628) stitches. You will now have 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on your working needle.

With the working needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (There are now 32, (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. 

With your working needle that has the picked up stitches, K2tog the 22 (24, 2628) stitches that are on the non-working needle. You will now have 32 (34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle.

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Needle arrangement for textured bootie slippers
How the needle arrangement should look.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

Five ridges picked up along the toe flap. The ridges going vertically are the textured motif. 
I forgot to take a new photo and reused the photo from another pattern.
The horizontal ridges look the same for you.

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

PLEASE NOTE: To make the picking up of the cast off stitches easier, count the number of cast off stitches on one side and count off the same number of cast off stitches on the other side. In other words, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches when picking up the first stitch, work across as written above, count up 32 (34, 36, 38) cast off stitches on the opposite side and pick up a stitch.

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

? Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Next Row: Knit across ?

Repeat from ? to ? down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Starting the sole. Right side. (I reused the photos but making the sole is the same 
for this pattern. The centre portion has the textured motif for what you’re making.)
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.
Continue to work down the length of the sole.
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go.
Keep going until you reach the end of the cast off stitches.

♥︎ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the side of the slipper before the cuff pattern begins.)

Ridges on the side of adult bootie slipper
The photo above shows 5 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 5 ridges 
when making the larger sizes.
The above photo shows 9 rows of ridges.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (14 stitches). 

Picking up the stitch on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across ♥︎

Repeat from ♥︎ to ♥︎ 0 (1, 2, 3) more times. Count down one less ridge for each row where you pick up a stitch along the side of the slipper. Another way to say it is…Work your way up the ridges closer to the cuff pattern when you pick up a stitch on each side when the RIGHT side facing you.

Making the Heel

I recently made a video showing how to do this. It’s how I make a lot of my slipper heels including this pattern. You can watch the video below to help you.

♦︎ Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. ♦︎

Repeat from ♦︎ to ♦︎ until 6 stitches remain. You will start picking up stitches in the patterned cuff on each side. That’s OK!!! 

Next Row: Pick up a stitch. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch on the other side. 

Next Row (wrong side): K2tog K1 K2tog.

Next Row: Knit the 3 sts together.

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (12ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch on the sides and the sole allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.

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Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more repeats of the first 4 rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. The red striped slippers have approximately twice the number of repeats as written. The purple slippers have the exact number of repeats as written.

If you want to fold the slipper and create a cuff, sew the seam on the wrong side as you usually would.. Work your way down until a little less than half way. Sew the rest of the seam on with the right side facing. You’ll have a nearly invisible seam if you do this. See the photo below.

sewing the seam to make a cuff

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you previously picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. I have a tutorial on my website at KweenBee.com that shows you how. You can search my website for the title How to Work in the Ends While Knitting – KweenBee.com You have to add KweenBee to the title to get my how-to when doing a search through your preferred search engine.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at [email protected].

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FREE Knitted Jewelry Patterns

If you’re looking to knit something different than a pair of slippers, sweaters, socks or mittens, look no further (and I bet you didn’t even know that knitted jewelry was “a thing” ?). Well folks, it certainly is and here are a few of my favourite designs that I found online to share with you.


Leaf Lace Cotton Cuff 

OMG the is so pretty!!! The free PDF is available as a download through Ravelry. Includes both written and chart instructions and is written in English and Dutch.

Download it here – Leaf Lace Cotton Cuff


Knitted Bluebird Brooch 

I really like the look of this one. Simple and cute! Be warned. I’m not sure how long/if the link will continue to work. This was apparently uploaded to the internet a while ago and is actually in an archive section. It may take a while to load the page.

Hope this works, but here’s the link – Knitted Bluebird Brooch


Knecklace

Love the title for this one ?. This is another one of those knitting patterns that really can be made to suit the wearer with something as simple as choosing a variegated yarn. Regardless, this lacy necklace would make a great gift, even or yourself ?

Read it here – Knecklace


Perdita – A Pretty Knitted Bracelet

I absolutely love this and is what inspired this list, if I can be honest. The pattern is written out in full as a chart AND as the written pattern. I love the final look of this knitted bracelet.

You can read it here – Perdita


Band Cuffs

These would look great alone or stacked together as shown. And what a great way to use up the left over stash! (We all have those tiny balls that we hoard for projects just like these. Admit it.) 

Read it online or get the PDF here – Band Cuffs


The Nameless Choker

If you’re into lace knitting, this may be right up your alley. Made with a small quantity of sock yarn, you could get a bunch of different effects if using a variegated yarn. 

You can read the pattern in full online here – The Nameless Choker

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Stuff for Kids – FREE Knitting Patterns

Dishcloth

Sometimes it’s nice to have smaller projects that use up our stash ends. Sometimes we want to give something to that favourite child in our lives. Maybe we are sill looking for an excuse to make something a little more on the fun and whimsical side. Whatever the reason, knitting patterns designed for children seem to involve all those factors. Here’s a quick sampling of the few things I’ve found lurking about on the web.


Almost Lost Washcloth

So not necessarily a kid thing, it’s a bit more on the whimsical side by not being your basic square washcloth. It looks like tit’s knitted in the round but in reality, it’s knitted flat on 2 needles. The swooping effect is created by leaving a few stitches on the needle. Very ingenious. Click here to read the pattern online.

Stacking Stars

Remember the stacking rings that children played with years ago? MThat was the first thing I thought of when I saw this. The star motif for the pattern is the same regardless of the size. What creates the difference in the sizes of the star is how many repeats you do. Available as a download only, You can get the pattern through Ravelry here – Stacking Stars

Snowman Hat Knitting Pattern

Awesomely super cute! Knit up this toque (I’m Canadian, that’s what we call these here ?) that’s sure to make all the preschoolers a little envious. You can read the pattern in full online here. There is also a PDF download but there is a fee required for that. The links to the downloads are on the website.

Bear With Me Dishcloth

Available as a PDF download from KnitPicks, (tons of patterns there btw), I added this primarily because of the awwwwwww factor. You can get the pattern here – Bear Washcloth

Knitted Pencil Case

I didn’t know that a knitted pencil case was a thing until I found this. I have to admit, I like it. Available as a download only, you can find it on Ravelry here – The Toby Case
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More Free Patterns for Cute Things

It’s been a while since I did a little research and found some great patterns that are available to read online or to download. As always, this short list is curated and all of the knitting and crochet patterns linked to are free. If you find that a link isn’t working, or the pattern is no longer free, please leave a comment below.

 

Child Sweater Knitting Pattern

OMG! Soooooo cute! I absolutely love this knitted sweater. Gives the full instructions to make it in 4 different sizes. For sure one will be the right size for the little one you have in mind.

You can read the pattern in full here – Knitted Truck Sweater.


 

Crocheted Soccasins

“What is a Soccasin? It is a unisex moccasin-style slipper with a built-in sock leg to keep little feet very toasty and warm.” You can also switch up the pattern to make a ballet slipper or Mary Jane’s. I’ve given the link to the main page. The link to the pattern is here.

Read the pattern online –  Crocheted Soccasins



 

FREE Knitting Stitches

Not necessarily falling under the “cute” title, I think many of you will find this incredibly useful. This is a great collection of various knitting stitches to use in upcoming projects. Some are for texture, some use colour, but the collection of various stitches a guaranteed to impress.

Look at the collection of them here – Free Knit Stitches


 

Abominable Baby Slippers

Another of those very old patterns that’s been archived, but you can still read online. You can use this crochet pattern to make slippers that are for a new born up to 2 years old.

Read it in full online here – Abominable Baby Slippers


 

Just Ducky – Hat & Slipper Socks

These links are a bit more complicated and the ducky hat and the ducky slipper socks are on two separate webpages. Put them together and you get this awesome knitted combo!

Be aware that the author of this pattern doesn’t want you to sell anything you make from the patterns. It’s for personal use only.

Get the patterns here – Just Ducky Hat and Just Ducky Slipper Socks



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Knitted Scarf & Cowl – FREE Knitting Patterns

When the wind starts to blow and temperatures get cold, it’s time to bundle up and keep warm with these knitted scarf and cowl patterns. All are free and available as either a download or to read online.

Pleated Scarf Pattern

 
Make a lovely scarf with this pattern. The pattern itself forms the pleats with no folding or ironing involved. If I don’t have to iron to make it look like this, I’m sold!  Get the download on Ravelry here – Arisaid Pleated Scarf

 

Twined Flowers

A bit of a different design that makes for a lovely, drape-y kind of feel. The pattern is online and can also be downloaded. The link to see it says download, but it will open up in your browser window. Read it here – Twin Flowers Scarf Pattern

 

Knitted Cowl Pattern

A simple and repetitive pattern and great for the beginner knitter. You can read the pattern in full online here – Birthday Cowl.

 

Textured Knit Purl Cowl 

This cowl made with a soft wool would feel absolutely amazing! The pattern is written out in full on the website. And it’s so easy, it’s literally 2 rows repeated over and over. Read the pattern here – Textured Knit Purl Cowl

 

First-Timer Knit Lace Scarf

Another pattern that’s great for a beginning knitter. As long as you know how to Yarn Over and have your basic stitches down, you’ll do great at this! Read the pattern in full online here – First-Timer Knit Lace Scarf