Bring the magic of the holidays to your knitting with this Reindeer Fingerless Gloves knitting pattern! Designed in adult sizes only, these cozy and festive gloves feature a sweet reindeer motif with little antlers that make them extra fun for winter wear. Whether you’re getting ready for Christmas parties, enjoying a holiday market, or just want something cozy and seasonal, these fingerless mitts are a perfect choice.
The pattern is not for beginners, but it does include step-by-step photos showing exactly how to create the antlers and work through the trickier details. If you love making handmade Christmas gifts, these reindeer gloves are a great project—ideal as stocking stuffers, gifts for knit-worthy friends, or a special treat just for you.
Inspired by the holiday classic Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer, these festive fingerless gloves capture the charm of winter’s favourite reindeer while keeping your hands warm and practical for everyday wear.
Love the reindeer motif? I also have Christmas slippers with the same deer face you can make for the entire family. Click this link – Reindeer Slippers for the Whole Family or tap the photo.
If you would to prefer to support my work and have access to a printable, ad-free version of this pattern, I offer that too. To get the downloadable pattern for a small fee you can get it in my Etsy Shop, Ravelry, LoveCrafts, Buy Me A Coffee and from the shop section on this website – KweenBee.com.
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Things You Need
Worsted weight yarn – 1 standard ball of yarn (215 yards/197 m). Any colours of your choosing.
MC – main colour
DFC – deer face colour
AC – antler colour
CC – cuff colour
Knitting needles: (See notes on sizing)
Small – Size 3 US (3.25 mm) knitting needles
Medium – Size 6 US (4 mm) knitting needles
Large – Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles
Cable needle
Tapestry needle – to sew the seam and work in the ends.
0.27 inch (7mm) wiggle eyes or small buttons. You can also embroider eyes on if you prefer.
Pom poms
Gauge
In stockinette stitch
Small
size 3.5 mm (US size 4) knitting needles
11 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
16 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Medium
size 4 mm (US size 6) knitting needles
10 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
14 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Large
size 5 mm (US size 8) knitting needles
9 stitches every 2 inches (5 cm)
12 rows every 2 inches (5 cm)
Sizing
Like my other fingerless mitt patterns, I’ve made this as one pattern and adjusted the needle size to change the sizes. This makes it a heck of a lot easier to design and keeps the proportion of the hippo the same on all sizes. Frankly, the overall look is better.
To help with the hand sizing, I’ve included a handy infographic (pun intended). Keep in mind, the garter stitch is very forgiving and will stretch and contract as needed to fit.
RIGHT Hand
With MC or CC – cast on 34
Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change to MC, do so now.)
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K14 Cast on 13 sts. K20. (47 sts) Watch the video below if you need help with casting on.
Row 14-16: Knit across
Row 17: K14, K2tog K9, K2tog, K20. (45 sts)
Row 18-20: K across
Row 21: K14, K2tog K7 K2tog, K9, In DFC (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn). In MC K9. (49 sts)
Row 22: In MC K9 In DFC P8. In MC K32
Row 23: In MC K32 In DFC K8. In MC K9.
Row 24: In MC K9 In DFC P8. In MC K32
Row 25 : In MC K14, K2tog K5 K2tog, K9, In DFC DFC TWK2tog. K4 K2tog. In MC K9. (45 sts)
Row 26: In MC K9 In DFC P6. In MC K30
Row 27: In MC K30 In DFC TWK2tog. K2 K2tog. In MC K9. (43 sts)
Row 28: In MC K9 In DFC P4. In MC K30
Row 29: In MC K14, K2tog K3 K2tog, K8, In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, TWK3tog (do NOT turn). In AC TWK2tog K2tog. In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). In MC K8. (39 sts) Break DFC yarn.
Row 30: In MC K9 In AC P2 In MC K28
Row 31: In MC K27 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle. In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC In MC K8. (39 sts)
Row 32: In MC K8. In AC P1. In MC K2. In AC P1. In MC K27.
Row 33: In MC K14, K2tog K1 K2tog, K7, Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, In AC K the st on the non-working needle, IN MC K the st on the cable needle. In AC pick up and K the st BELOW (see photos). In MC K2 . In AC pick up and K in the 2nd st BELOW. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K7 (39 sts)
First Antler
Place it on the non-working needle
Knit the stitch
Stitch completed
Second Antler
Lift and place on non-working needle
Knit the stitch
Row 34: In MC K7. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K24.
Row 35: In MC K23. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K st on the cable needle. K the next st on the non-working needle. In AC K. In MC K2. In AC K. In MC K. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K6
Row 36: In MC K6. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K23).
Row 37: In MC K23. In AC K. In MC K8. In AC K. In MC K6.
Row 38: In MC K6. In AC P. In MC K8. In AC P. In MC K23. Break AC.
Rows 39 – 44: Knit across
With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change to CC, do so now.)
Row 45: K across
Row 46: P1 K1 ☺ P2 K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺to the last st. P1.
*Row 47: K1 P1 ◊ K2 P1 ◊. Repeat from ◊ to ◊ to the last st. K1.
Row 48: As row 46 *
Repeat from * to * for 8 more rows. Repeat these 2 rows for a longer cuff.
Cast off.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on. If you need help you can watch the video below.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
More of My Stuff On Etsy
You can make a widget like this for your blog or website, too.
Instructions are on my website here: How to Display Etsy Items on Your Website
LEFT Hand
With MC or CC – cast on 34
Row 1: (P1 K2). Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 2: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Repeat these 2 rows for a total of 6 rows. (If you want to change to MC, do so now.)
Row 7 – 12: Knit across
Row 13: K20 Cast on 13 sts. K14. (47 sts)
Row 14-16: Knit across
Row 17: K20, K2tog K9, K2tog, K14. (45 sts)
Row 18-20: K across
Row 21: K9. In DFC (K3 into one stitch) twice. Turn. Working the following rows into the 6 stitches in the two stitches, P6, turn, K1, M1 K4 M1, K1 turn, P8, turn, K8, turn, P8, turn, K8 (do NOT turn). In MC K9, K2tog K7 K2tog, K14. (49 sts)
Row 22: In MC K32 In DFC P8. In MC K9
Row 23: In MC K9 In DFC K8. In MC K32.
Row 24: In MC K32 In DFC P8. In MC K9
Row 25 : In MC K9, In DFC DFC TWK2tog. K4 K2tog. In MC K9, K2tog K5 K2tog, K14. (45 sts)
Row 26: In MC K30 In DFC P6. In MC K9
Row 27: In MC K9 In DFC TWK2tog. K2 K2tog. In MC K30. (43 sts)
Row 28: In MC K30 In DFC P4. In MC K9
Row 29: In MC K8, In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, TWK3tog (do NOTturn). In AC TWK2tog K2tog. In DFC K3 into one stitch by alternating knitting into the front, the back and the front of the stitch, turn. Working the following rows into the 3 stitches in the one stitch, P3, turn, K3, turn, P3, turn, K3tog (do NOT turn). In MC K8, K2tog K3 K2tog, K14 (39 sts) Break DFC yarn.
Row 30: In MC K28 In AC P2 In MC K9.
Row 31: In MC K8 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K the st on the cable needle. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K27. (39 sts)
Row 32: In MC K27. In AC P1. In MC K2. In AC P1. In MC K8.
Row 33: In MC K7 Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK, In AC K the st on the non-working needle, IN MC K the st on the cable needle. In AC pick up and K the st BELOW (see photos). In MC K2 . In AC pick up and K in the 2nd st BELOW. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K7, K2tog K1 K2tog, K14. (39 sts)
Row 34: In MC K24. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K. In AC P. In MC K7.
Row 35: In MC K6. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st BACK. In AC K the st on the non-working needle. In MC K st on the cable needle. K the next st on the non-working needle. In AC K. In MC K2. In AC K. In MC K. Pick up the next st with the cable needle. Pull the st FORWARD. In MC K the st on the non-working needle, In AC K the st on the cable needle. In MC K23.
Row 36: In MC K23. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K2. In AC P. In MC K6.
Row 37: In MC K6. In AC K. In MC K8. In AC K. In MC K23.
Row 38: In MC K23. In AC P. In MC K8. In AC P. In MC K6. Break AC.
Rows 39 – 44: Knit across
With the RIGHT side facing (If you want to change to CC, do so now.)
Row 45: K across
Row 46: P1 K1 ☺ P2 K1 ☺ Repeat from ☺ to ☺to the last st. P1.
*Row 47: K1 P1 ◊ K2 P1 ◊. Repeat from ◊ to ◊ to the last st. K1.
Row 48: As row 46 *
Repeat from * to * for 8 more rows. Repeat these 2 rows for a longer cuff.
Cast off.
Make the Thumb
With the RIGHT side facing, Pick up 13 sts from the additional sts you cast on in Row 13. Pick up the st in the twist formed from casting on.
With the WRONG side facing
Row 1: (K1 P2) Repeat to the last st. K1.
Row 2: (P1 K2) Repeat to the last st. P1.
Row 3: Repeat row 1
Cast off.
Sew the seams on the thumb and side of the glove.
Hints and Tips
Picking up the stitch to make the second branch of the antler is sort of up to you. If you pick up the stitch right below where you just knitted, it won’t be a disaster. Most deer antlers aren’t perfectly symmetrical in real life anyways. In fact, the more off they are, the more desirable; especially if it has a drop tine.
Work in the ends on the backside of the reindeer and sew the thumb seam before you sew the seam along the side of the glove. It’s easier to do it this way.
Depending on how you do your colour work, your antler stitches may not all be the same size with some being larger and some smaller. It doesn’t bother me but if it’s an issue for you, you can adjust them slightly with the yarn carried behind your work. Regardless, stretch your work horizontally and vertically to even out the stitches when you’re done.
Abbreviations
K – knit
P – Purl
K2tog – knit 2 together
st – stitch
sts – stitches
M1 – Make one (knit wise). Increase one stitch between the stitches. Pick up the yarn between the stitches. Twist it slightly and place it on your non-working needle. Knit the stitch. Watch the video that shows you how.
TWK2tog – (Twist and Knit 2 sts together) – Pick up a stitch as if to knit. Twist the stitch and place it back on your non-working needle. Knit the 2 stitches together from right to left. Yes, the video is showing how to make a mushroom, but I’ve cued up how to make the st.
TWK3tog – same as TWK2tog but knit 3 stitches together instead of 2.
