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How to Knit Fingerless Gloves

Hand knit fingerless gloves

I’m not sure if this happens to anyone else, but I found some fantastic yarn on clearance that I absolutely had to have. Of course, I had no idea what to do with it. Then I got on my fingerless glove kick. I have written other patterns in the past such as myΒ Owl Fingerless Gloves, Flip Mitts, andΒ Texting Mitts, but they were all made with standard worsted weight yarn. The yarn I couldn’t leave behind was light weight; 3 as by North American terminology. So, a redesign of my gloves was in order! I absolutely love that these are a lighter, more delicate version of my previous patterns. AND I can use colour changing yarn and it works! If this is your first time using one of my patterns, I kinda got a thing for shaded yarns…just sayin’.

And if you were looking to buy a pair of these beauties but accidentally wound up here, click this link Hand Knit Fingerless Gloves and you can purchase a finished pair from my website. Or if you prefer to order through Etsy, you can get them there too – Fingerless Gloves by KweenBee on Etsy.


Like my other fingerless mitts, these are knitted on double point needles, also known as DPN. Though this sounds intimidating, it really is very simple. This is definitely not a beginner’s knitting project, but knitting in the round is the same as knitting flat. Only difference is you don’t flip your work back in forth; it’s done a continuous circle.

The sizing for mittens, like socks or slippers, is somewhat general. The small size will fit someone with a smaller hand. Think a younger teenager. A medium is an average lady’s hand. I’m a medium when it comes to rubber gloves and I designed the medium mitt to fit my hand. Large is for a larger size hand. Each size is written out in full as the row and stitch counts differ for each.


Enjoying the free patterns and would like to Help Support My Work, GREAT! Please give what you can and like, share and follow me on social media. You can use the links above to easily do so.

The PDF is also available for your viewing pleasure. If you are tired of the ad supported version, you can download the PDF for a small 99Β’ fee from my website – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves, Ravelry or Etsy. All are the same price no matter where you get it from.

Things you need

Yarn (a standard ball of light weight yarn (3 weight) will be more than enough)

Size 4 mm (US size 6) double pointed needles (or whatever size needles you need to get the correct gauge).

Stitch holder

Gauge

11 stitches = 2 inches

17 rows = 2 inches

Small

The Mitt

Cast on 32 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 12: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1 purl 1 ribbing).

Round 13 – 15: Knit

Round 16: K1, M1, K1, M1, K30.

Round 17 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, M1, K3, M1, K30.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, M1, K5, M1, K30.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, M1, K7, M1, K30.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, M1, K9, M1, K30.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, M1, K11, M1, K30.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, place next 13 sts onto the stitch holder. K30.

Round 35 – 42: K around.

Round 43 – 47: K2tog, P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 13 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 13 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 3: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Medium

The Mitt

Cast on 36 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 15: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1, purl 1 ribbing).

Round 16 – 18: Knit

Round 19: K1, M1, K1, M1, K34.

Round 20 – 21: Knit

Round 22: K1, M1, K3, M1, K34.

Round 23 – 24: Knit

Round 25: K1, M1, K5, M1, K34.

Round 26 – 27: Knit

Round 28: K1, M1, K7, M1, K34.

Round 29 – 30: Knit

Round 31: K1, M1, K9, M1, K34.

Round 32 – 33: Knit

Round 34: K1, M1, K11, M1, K34.

Round 35 – 36: Knit

Round 37: K1, M1, K13, M1,K34.

Round 38 – 39: Knit

Round 40: K1, place next 15 sts onto the stitch holder. K34.

Round 41 – 49: K around.

Round 50 – 54: K2 tog. P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 15 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 15 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 3: Knit

Bind off loosely.

Large

The Mitt

Cast on 40 sts (loosely). Divide these evenly as possible on three of the double pointed needles.

Round 1 – 18: K1, P1 (Creates knit 1, purl 1 ribbing).

Round 19 – 20: Knit

Round 21: K1, M1, K1, M1, K38.

Round 22 – 23: Knit

Round 24: K1, M1, K3, M1, K38.

Round 25 – 26: Knit

Round 27: K1, M1, K5, M1, K38.

Round 28 – 29: Knit

Round 30: K1, M1, K7, M1, K38.

Round 31 – 32: Knit

Round 33: K1, M1, K9, M1, K38.

Round 34 – 35: Knit

Round 36: K1, M1, K11, M1, K38.

Round 37 – 38: Knit

Round 39: K1, M1, K13, M1, K38.

Round 40 – 41: Knit

Round 42: K1, M1, K15, M1,K38.

Round 43 – 44: Knit

Round 45: K1, place next 17 sts onto the stitch holder. K38.

Round 46 – 57: K around.

Round 58 – 63: K2tog, P1, *K1, P1* Repeat from * to * around.

Bind off loosely.

The Thumb

Worked over the 17 sts on the stitch holder.

Pick up and divided the 17 sts on the stitch holder between the 3 double pointed needles. One of the needles will have more sts than the others.

Round 1 – 5: Knit

Bind off loosely.

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Abbreviations

K – Knit

P – Purl

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

st – stitch

Helpful Hints

You don’t need a stitch holder. Even a piece of yarn will work.

Customise this pattern as you see fit. If you want the cuff longer, do so. If you need a longer thumb, add more rows. As long as your stitch counts stay the same, it should work out fine.

Some folks like to felt their mittens as it can help stop the wind from blowing through the stitches. Be careful though because felting shrinks your work! It’s hard to guess how much shrinkage will happen as there are so many variables involved, from temperature of the water to how much agitation occurs during the felting process. You can give it a try but make sure you use PURE wool! Anything that is a blend won’t felt properly. My last attempt at felting a pair of mittens for myself resulted in my young son getting a new pair of mitts. At least they didn’t go to waste :-/

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me here.

Like always, you can sell or give away whatever you make from my patterns. Don’t be a douche and try to pass this pattern off as your own in any way or form (physical or digital). See how handy fingerless gloves can be 😎

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FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern for Children

FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern for Children

After a bit of math and a little tweaking of the results, the child sizes of the FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern is finally available! Because these are made for little feet, they often don’t need much yarn. This makes them a great way to use up the smaller leftover bits from larger projects. Not to mention, these tend to sell like hotcakes at local farmers’ markets, craft fairs and consignment shops. The smaller pairs are “so cute” making for an easy sale and the return on the investment of your time is great! They’re quick to make and since the yarn has already been bought for a larger project, anything made from the leftovers, like these child shippers, is gravy, baby!


And yes, you have my permission to sell or give away anything you make from my patterns. You’re just not allow to redistribute any of the patterns themselves in any form. Linking to and sharing is always welcome though! You can use those buttons πŸ‘‡πŸΌ to do so easily.


If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If you can’t help financially, I totally get it. Sharing on your social media is the next best thing.

Please note, this isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles, but no worries! I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

And if you are concerned with the number of ends you’ll need to weave in when done, I’ve also created a tutorial to help you with that too! It’s so much easier to work the ends in as you go, though there will be a few you’ll have to do (i.e. when you sew up the seam for the heel), but if you are interested in easing your work load, here’s the link showing you How to Weave in the Ends While Knitting. A new window will open so you won’t lose this page πŸ˜‰. There’s also a clickable card in the scrolling free pattern pics running across the top of this website if you need to find the page again.

Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. I really enjoying watching how the colours pool on the finished project. Little weird, I know… And In case you were thinking of trying self-striping yarn. Don’t. It looks terrible.

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart and Bernat worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Use this product to help prevent slippers from sliding on slick floors



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows


Sizes (are written as such)

Child’s 1-2 (3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3, 4-5)

I’m using a colour code to denote the number of stitches for the various sizes. I hope this helps when making the sizes of slippers.

SizeLength
1-24 inches10 cm
3-44.5 inches11.4 cm
5-65 inches12.5 cm
7-85 3/4 inches14.5 cm
9-106 inches15 cm
11-126 3/4 inches17 cm
13-17 1/4 inches18.5 cm
2-38 1/4 inches21 cm
4-58 3/4 inches22 cm
All measurements are approximate. Knitted slippers are very forgiving for size and foot shape.

To Begin

Cast on 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34)

Knit across for 10 (12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 18, 20, 20) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.

Toe Flap

Next Row: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) to create the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 6 (6, 8, 8,10, 10, 10, 12, 12) toe flap stitches only!

Knit across for 18 (20, 22, 24, 26, 30, 32, 36, 40) rows.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.


Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit these stitches. Pick up 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are now on ONE needle – 15 (16, 19, 20, 23, 25, 26, 30, 32) stitches

With another needle, knit the 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the other needle unworked for now.

With another needle, pick up 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 18, 20) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 6 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11) stitches on the next needle. There are now 15 (16, 19, 20, 23, 25, 26, 30, 32) stitches on this needle.

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Knitting on 4 Needles
I used double pointed needles because they were handy and I don’t like the longer needles flopping and waggling about while I knit. Regular knitting needles work perfectly fine, too!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 4 (4, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows.

There are 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the sizes 2-3 and 4-5.

How to knit slippers
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap
Ridges for child slippers
The 2 ridges for small size 1-2 and 3-4.

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11) stitches of the toe flap.

Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

How to knit slippers
This photo is taken from the right side.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. – 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10, 10, 12, 12) stitches

Knitting Pattern - Owl Slippers
Left edge

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

πŸ¦‹ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Owl Slippers Knitting Pattern - Pick up a Stitch
Right edge

Next Row: Knit across πŸ¦‹

Repeat from πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

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Making the Heel

If You Have 6 Stitches

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (Click here to see the ridges along the edges of the cuff.) K2tog 3 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

If You Have 8 Stitches

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. (Click here to see the ridges along the edges of the cuff.) K2tog 4 times. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

If you have 10 or More Stitches

πŸ§šπŸ½β€β™€οΈ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down the same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.

Owl Slippers knitting pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making this style of slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers because it was easier πŸ˜‰)

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. πŸ§šπŸ½β€β™€οΈ Repeat from πŸ§šπŸ½β€β™€οΈ to πŸ§šπŸ½β€β™€οΈ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.


Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on. Because smaller kid-lettes tend to have chunkier legs (aka – cankles πŸ˜‰), which is so gosh-darn cute btw, don’t go too crazy with the length.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is roughly 1 stitch every ridge.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit. And yes, this is the third time I’m sharing it, but I made a photo tutorial showing how to do this. You can see it here – How to Work in the Ends as You Knit.

Abbreviations

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something. Especially on the smaller slippers that involve so many different stitch counts for the numerous sizes.

To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work!  A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely πŸ₯°


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How to Work in the Ends While Knitting

How to work in ends while knitting

This simple technique is something that I’ve been meaning to share for quite sometime. And since I’ve received a number of comments regarding the number of ends for my Owl Slippers and Moccasin Slippers, I realized I needed to get on this ASAP. I may do a video are some point, but since it was easier to take photos while I was making samples for the kid version of the moccasin slippers, a photo tutorial is what you get.

And I don’t have instructions for left handed people. I’m so sorry about that. I’m right handed so it’s what I have to work with.

Step 1:

With the right side of your work facing you, put your needle through the stitch as if you were to knit. With the end at the back of your work, lay the end over your working needle. With your left hand, hold the end snug, not tight.

Step 2:

Place the working yarn over the needle as you normally would and knit the stitch. Do NOT catch or pull the end through while knitting the stitch.

Drop the stitch from the non-working needle as you normally would.

Step 3:

Drop the end (or hold out of the way) and knit the next stitch.

Repeat steps 1-3 for roughly 10 stitches. With this technique you are alternating in order to catch the end between the stitches at the back of your work as shown below.

What it looks like from the wrong side.
View from the front. Can’t see the end at all!

When you are done, pull the end so it is snug. It’ll take up any slack that’s between the stitches you skipped. Before I trim it off, I always stretch the final piece to make sure there is just enough slack to ensure there’s no puckering.

If you need a little more security, you can always give an additional back weave with a tapestry needle to catch the end of the end a bit, but I don’t.

And yes, this does keep the yarn in place even with 100% acrylic yarn. I’ve made a number of slippers with the ends worked in this way and an afghan. I’ve washed the afghan a number of times with no issue whatsoever.

I hope this helps speed up your work. I hate sewing in ends just as much as the next person and anything that lessens the number of them is worth a huge πŸ‘πŸΌ in my books.

And I also haven’t had much success doing this with purl stitches. If you have any ideas, by all means, let us know in the comment section.

The K1 P1 ribbing that I do for the cuffs of my Owl Fingerless Gloves works well using this method, too. Catch the end on your knit stitch and purl the purl stitch as you normally would. Because it is right on the cuff and needs to stretch and contract, I do catch the end a bit with a tapestry needle just to give it a little extra security.

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FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern

FREE Knitted Slippers Pattern

This is a simplified version of my very popular Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern. I realized that not everyone may want owls on their slippers. That a more plain slipper was something that any man, woman or child would wear as “knitted slippers” without fear of judgement (and if you’re so inclined to experience that lack of judgment, you can now buy a finished pair here – Adult Moccasin Slippers or in my Etsy shop). I’m not sure about someone who’d judge someone wearing owl slippers, but that’s really not the point. And oh yeah. The child sizes are finished! If you would like to knit up a quick pair of the child version, you can read that pattern here – FREE Knitted Slipper Pattern for Children.


Because of the request by many that they would prefer a PDF download, it’s DONE! You can download this pattern for a small 99Β’ fee/donation. You can get it from a number of places. You can download it from a number of places. In particular, my site here – Adult Moccasin Slippers with a Cuff. You can also get it at a number of other online book retailers such as Ravelry, Google Play, LoveCrafts, Etsy and Amazon. I think that’s enough options to make nearly everyone happy πŸ˜‰.

If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons πŸ‘‡πŸΌ to do so easily.


This isn’t a pattern for beginners, but if you know how to knit a stitch, pick up stitches and knit two stitches together, you should be okay. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

And because this pattern is so basic with no pattern of any sort, it’s a great knitting pattern to highlight the colour of your yarn. I have a weakness for variegated/shaded yarns. Don’t ask me why… My grandma did too. It must be genetic. I find the self-striping looks terrible and give it a 1/10. Would not recommend.

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any worsted weight yarn will suffice.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable needle

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Use this product to make knitted slippers less slippery.



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

In garter stitch

4” = 16 sts

4” = 40 rows


Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 36 (38, 40, 42)

Knit across for 22 (24, 26, 28) rows. Break yarn when completed last row.

Toe Flap

Row 7: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

Knit across for 42 (44, 46, 48) rows.

Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.


Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches. Pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (32 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the other needle unworked for now. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 21 (22, 23, 24) stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 11 (12, 13, 14) stitches on the next needle. (32, 34, 36, 38) stitches on this needle)

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

How to knit slippers
I used a double pointed needle to work my 14 stitches for the toe only because it was handy. A regular needle works!

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 14 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 10 (12, 14, 16) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 5 ridges for the women’s size 6-7 or the men’s 5-6.

How to knit slippers
These are the ridges picked up along the toe flap

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

How to knit slippers
This photo is taken from the right side.

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Knitting Pattern - Owl Slippers
Left edge

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

πŸ¦‹ Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Owl Slippers Knitting Pattern - Pick up a Stitch
Right edge

Next Row: Knit across πŸ¦‹

Repeat from πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹ down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Starting the sole. Right side.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Working your way down while making the sole. Wrong side.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Continuing to work down the length of the sole.

Adult Moccasin Slippers - Making the Sole
Still further down the sole. Note how the cast off edges are being picked up as you go. Keep working your way down the length of the sole until you’ve picked up all the cast off stitches .

More of My Stuff on Etsy

Making the Heel

πŸ§šπŸ½β€β™€οΈ Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, pick up a stitch in the row closest to the sole of the slipper. Count how many ridges it is for the size you are making. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count downtime same number of ridges on the other side and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches).

Owl Slippers knitting pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges. You’ll have more than 9 ridges when making the adult size of this slipper. (I reused the photo from the owl slippers πŸ˜‰)

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down one ridge less than the previous row and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down the same number of ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across. πŸ§šπŸ½β€β™€οΈ Repeat from πŸ§šπŸ½β€β™€οΈ to πŸ§šπŸ½β€β™€οΈ until 6 stitches remain.

Next Row: Pick up a stitch beneath the next ridge. K2tog 3 times. Pick up a stitch in the space beneath the next ridge on the other side.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: K2tog, K1, K2tog. Pass the middle stitch on your working needle over the stitch on the left. Pass the stitch on the right over the stitch on the left. (Or you can turn your work and knit the 3 sts together).

Break yarn leaving a length of yarn long enough (8ish inches) to sew up the remaining seam.

Make another slipper.

Yes, they do look a little boxy when they’re done and not on a foot. The stretch of the garter stitch allows these slippers to stretch around the contours of any foot easily.


Hints and Tips

If you want a longer cuff at the top, work more rows than stated at the beginning when you cast on.

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to pick up a stitch in a stitch you already picked up. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every ridge.

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.

Abbreviations

k – knit

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below or send me your questions here. If there is a typo or stitch count that’s off, let me know in the comments! I type these out from notes I make when designing the slippers. It’s easy, and embarrassingly common for me to miss something.

To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work!  A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely πŸ₯°


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How to Knit Adult Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

How to knit adult slippers

I’ve decided to share one of my most favourite things to knit…slippers just like my mom used to make. I’ve given the pattern so anyone can create them for adults from a woman’s size 7-12 or a man’s 6-11. This is by far my most popular pattern I have ever written and has been dowloaded and viewed thousands of times through various online channels. 

If you’re not a fan of being online, you can also download the ad free PDF version of the pattern directly from the download section of this website for a small fee – How to Knit Adult Slippers. Once there, it’s a straight forward process. You need to register to be able to access downloads.

If that is too much of a hassle, you can also find it in my Etsy shop for the same small fee.

How to Knit Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

As my latest addition, I’ve also converted this pattern to children’s sizes. You can use this link to see my FREE children’s knitted slippers pattern. Both of these patterns are great to practice if you are a new knitter. Make sure you maintain the correct gauge! The sizing for the slippers is based on it. If you match your gauge to mine then the sizing should work out correctly.

I’ve also added all of the the videos for the necessary knitting stitches you’ll need to make these slippers.You can watch them right on this site by clicking this link –  Basic Knitting Stitches. I’ve also embedded the complete step-by-step video showing how to make these. Scroll down or click here to the end of the page to watch it right here. FYI – all the links on this page open in a new page so you won’t lose this one.


I’ve also added links to the specific stitches that you need within the pattern itself.  For example, if you forget how to gather stitches to form the toe, there’s a link right there to go to the video.


If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons above let you do it easily. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

Don’t think you can make these yourself?  Or maybe you would like some examples.  Either way you can check them out in my online shop

Things you will need:

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

200 gr of worsted weight yarn (this is an estimate. One large ball from any retailer will do.)

Set of 2 size 5 (US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew the seams.

Gauge:

12 rows stockinette  = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Slippers are given for a woman’s size 7-8 (9-10, 11-12) or a man’s sizes 6-7 (8-9, 10-11). The foot lengths of a man’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a woman’s size 7-8 and so on.

Cast on 40 sts

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: K13 P1 K12 P1 K13

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 36 (42, 48) more times.

Shape toe:

Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K14  *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 5 more times. P1 {This is K1 P1 Ribbing.}

Next Row:  With wrong side facing you *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K12 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.

Repeat these 2 rows for 22 (26, 30) more rows. 24 (28, 32) rows ribbed TOTAL.

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 12 times.  K1. K2tog 7 times P1.  21 stitches remaining.

Next Row: P8 K6 P7

Next Row: K2tog 10 times. K1. 11 stitches.

Next Row: P5 K3 P3.

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops (AKA gather stitches) and pull together to form toe.  Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.


To form back flap of heel:

With right side of work facing you pick up 14 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper. A lot of people have messaged me over the years not knowing how to do this. I made a video! It’s actually for another pattern but is exactly the same as this. Here’s the link to the video – Picking up Stitches for the Heel 

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Knit across.

Row 3: K2tog K10 K2tog.  12 stitches

Row 4: Knit across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: K2tog K8 K2tog. 10 stitches.

Row 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Knit across.

Row 9: K2tog K6 K2tog.  8 stitches

Row 10: Knit across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K4 K2tog. 6 stitches.

Row 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Knit across.

Row 15: K2tog K2 K2tog.  4 stitches

Row 16: Knit across.

Row 17: Knit across.

Row 18: K2tog twice. 2 stitches.

Row 19: Knit across.

Bind off

Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern.  You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form, physical or digital, unless you have obtained my written permission to do so.  If you would like to link back, that always awesome and feel free to do so.  Happy knitting!!


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How to Knit Fingerless Gloves – with OWLS!

beige owl knitted fingerless gloves

Also known as fingerless mittens, I seem to have a thing going on for this awesome owl motif. If you haven’t seen them already, I also have a Knitted Owl Slipper pattern that you may like. But more about these awesome fingerless gloves… They are fairly quick to make if you’re an experienced knitter and know how to knit in the round on double pointed needles (dpn). This is also a great pattern if you have a bit of left over yarn from other knitting projects. Like enough to knit one slipper, but you’re not sure if you’ll have enough to finish the whole pair. I know. We’ve all been there.

Did you wind up here looking for the finished product and not a pattern? No worries! You can buy your very own pair either from this website here – Hand Knit Owl Fingerless Gloves or in my Etsy shop.


And due to the number of folks contacting me via email and through the comments below, I am now offering a download of this pattern! I can’t give it away for free though. There is a minimal cost to do so; only 99Β’ (USD). You can download it directly from this site here – Owl Fingerless Gloves, or at other ebook retailers such as Ravelry, Etsy, LoveCrafts, Amazon and Google Books. FYI all are the same at the 99Β’ price point. I was going to add Apple Books, but they are charging their usual minimum fee of $1.99. I’m not going to make anyone pay more than they have to.

A few quick words on sizing. Instead of going through all the effort to remake the pattern for different sizes, and to keep the proportion of the knitted owls the same, I’ve gone about adjusting the sizing by changing the size of your knitting needles. These are knitted in the round making them seamless with no scratchy seams to worry about. Because of being knitted in the round, the thumbs have to be on different sides so they fit correctly. You’ll have to make one for the left hand and the right hand. Instructions are given separately for both. You can click the links or scroll down the page.

Loving the free knitting patterns? Then please help support this site. You can learn more by going to my Help Support My Work page and make a small financial contribution. Or, you can use these links below πŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌ and share this and my other patterns through your social media. More eyeballs on my work helps a bunch too. Also, please visit the sponsors on this website. Making purchases through Amazon and visiting the other sponsors grants me a small “finder’s fee” for sending you to their website.


Want other knitted mitten patterns that are for texting or are more plain Jane and can cover the ends of your fingers? I have those too. You can check out my How to Knit Texting Mittens and How to Knit Flip Mitts. I forgot I even had those… huh! And for those who actually take the time to read these long-winded intro’s, I just finished another fingerless mitten pattern. It’s cleverly titled – How to Knit Fingerless Gloves. It uses finer yarn, smaller needles and is sized with different stitch and row counts. It also is very plain Jane and is owl free!

FYI – This pattern came to me quickly. I actually woke up from a nap with this in my head a week ago. I wrote it up fast and have done a lot of copying and pasting to get this out ASAP. If you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below.

Things you will need:

worsted weight yarn (less than 50 grams was more than enough to make a pair of large knitted gloves. I know because I weighed them πŸ˜‰). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern but any kind will do.

Set of 4 double pointed needles (see note on sizing)

Stitch holder

Needle and thread to sew on eyes

Tapestry needle to sew the hole by the thumb and work in ends

Cable needle

4 – 4 mm beads for eyes. You can use larger ones or very small buttons, too. I’m using some jewels I found and gluing them on.


This is the yarn I used for the beige owl mittens. I’m sure you can find it cheaper than this, but I wanted to show you which one it was. It’s very popular for slippers and other stuff I sell. Just saying’.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

A Note on Sizing:

As I mentioned previously, the sizing for this pattern is done a little differently. Instead of different stitch counts which I normally do, I’m changing the size of the needles. Chances are good that if you know how to knit in the round, you already have these size needles anyways. If not, it’s a good excuse to go to your favourite yarn store to pick up the needles you’ll need. And since you’re there, check out the yarn sales. You’d be foolish not to.

My standard for sizing was my hand and designed the knitting pattern according to what kind of rubber gloves fit me comfortably. I wear a medium sized rubber glove and the medium sized glove fits perfectly. the Grey mittens are a medium. The beige is a small if you like your gloves a bit on the snug side. I didn’t even bother trying to model the red. They were too big. You may need to use different sized needles to get the correct gauge, but this pattern is very forgiving if you’re a bit off.

Small

Medium

Large

Left Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely (you need to allow the ribbing to stretch)

Round 1 – 10: K1 P1

Round 11 – 13: K around

Round 14: K1 M1 K1 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18 (knitted stitches between the M1’s are the thumb increase)

Round 15: K around to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 16: K around to the P. P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 17: K1 M1 K3 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 18: Repeat round 16

Round 19: Repeat round 16

Round 20: K1 M1 K5 M1 K6 P1 K8 P1 K18

Round 21: Repeat round 16

Round 22: Repeat round 16

Round 23: K1 M1 K7 M1 K6 P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 24: K around to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 25: Repeat round 24

Round 26: K1 M1 K9 M1 K6 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 27: Repeat round 24

Round 28: Repeat round 24

Round 29: K1 M1 K11 M1 K6 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 30: Repeat round 24

Round 31: Repeat round 24

Round 32: K1 Pass the 13 stitches to the stitch holder (the thumb stitches). K to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K18

Round 33: K to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K18

Round 34: K to the P. P10 K 18

Round 35: K1 P1 around. P last 2 stitches together to maintain pattern.

Round 36 – 39: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely. It needs to stretch.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Right Hand

Cast on 36 sts loosely (you need to allow the ribbing to stretch)

Round 1 – 10: K1 P1

Round 11 – 13: K around

Round 14: K1 M1 K1 M1. K19. P1 K8 P1 K5 (knitted stitches between the M1’s are the thumb increase)

Round 15: K around to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 16: K around to the P. P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 17: K1 M1 K3 M1 K19 P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 18: Repeat round 16

Round 19: Repeat round 16

Round 20: K1 M1 K5 M1 K19 P1 K8 P1 K5

Round 21: Repeat round 16

Round 22: Repeat round 16

Round 23: K1 M1 K7 M1 K19 P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 24: K around to the P. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 25: Repeat round 24

Round 26: K1 M1 K9 M1 K19 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 27: Repeat round 24

Round 28: Repeat round 24

Round 29: K1 M1 K11 M1 K19 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 30: Repeat round 24

Round 31: Repeat round 24

Round 32: K1 Pass the 13 stitches to the stitch holder (the thumb stitches). K19. P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K5

Round 33: K to the P. P1 C4F C4B P1 K5

Round 34: K to the P. P10 K5

Round 35: K2tog. *P1 K1* Repeat from * to * around ending with P1.

Round 36 – 39: K1 P1 around.

Cast off loosely. It needs to stretch.

Make Thumb

Pick up the 13 stitches from the stitch holder. Work 3 rounds even. Cast off loosely.

Hints and Tips

I cast all the stitches on one needle when I start. Then I divide them up between the 3 needles. This helps to avoid the twisting you can sometimes get when casting on to each needle.

Your gauge isn’t overly important but best if it’s at least close. Because the knitted mittens are are fingerless, they are very forgiving if they’re a little small or large.

I prefer to use bamboo dpn. I find that it helps to prevent that line you get between needles when knitting in the round.

You will probably need to adjust the number of stitches you have on each needle. I usually make one split between the purl and the start of the owl motif. It gives more than 12 on one needle and less than 12 on the other, but it makes it easier to knit the owl.

I haven’t tried this, but changing to even smaller needles and thinner yarn can make even smaller child sizes. Let me know if you try this and what gauge and needles give the right sizes. You can leave your findings in the comment section.

Abbreviations:

C4F – Cable 4 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. 

C4B – Cable 4 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

M1 – Make 1 stitch. Pull up a loop between the stitches and knit.

K – Knit

P – Purl

Sts – stitches

K2tog – Knit 2 together

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How to Crochet Jewelry – Make a Victorian Steampunk Necklace and Bracelet

How to crochet jewelry

I originally published this pattern way back in 2016; seems like a lifetime ago these days. Back then, I was charging for it, but like all my patterns, I’m making this crochet pattern free for anyone who would like it. This particular pattern started off as a bracelet design, then subsequently morphed into necklaces because I liked it so much. Also, I found some way cool charms and pendants that I just had to use. 

As far as the difficulty of the pattern, adding the charms may be a little tricky at first, especially if you’re using charms that have one good side. If the charms are printed or carved, like the teacups or Buddhas shown above in the bracelets, then it’s not so important. If you find one sided charms, no worries. There are a bunch of pictures I’ve included that show you how to attach the charms so they’ll face the right direction.


To make things a smidgen easier for you here is the link if you want to make the bracelet and this is the link for the necklace. I’ve included all the photos in both versions to make it easier for you. If recommend starting with the bracelet so you can get the feel of how to do it. And if you would prefer a ad free, PDF downloadable version of the pattern instead of being online, you can get that for a small fee/donation here – Crocheted Victorian Charm Bracelet and Necklace or here in my Etsy shop.

Lovin’ the free patterns and want to help support this website? Please share this pattern on your social media and send an email to anyone you think may like it. Those handy links up there will certainly help you do it. I’m also fond of any financial donation you may see fit to give. You can go to my Help Support My Work page to find out how.

Things you need:

1 ball of crochet cotton thread

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook

7 charms for a bracelet (1 more or 1 less if you need it longer or shorter, respectively)

11 charms for a necklace. (I used 18 little keys for the choker in the cover photo and 7 crosses for the necklace in the photo montage above.)

A pretty button

Gauge: 

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. This pattern can be made as long as you like and you can easily adjust the length to what you want when you’re making it. Each fan adds approximately 25/32″ or 2 cm. Generally speaking, I make my bracelets approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length making 9 fans total. Necklaces vary depending on the length you want. I wrote the instructions for a necklace approximately 18 7/64 inches or 46 cm and 24 fans long.

Change the charms to get a different feel. I tend to be a little more on the dark and gothic side.

Another point to remember, your final product will stretch a bit longer as the stitches relax over time or if you press it with an iron.


Crocheted Victorian Charm Necklace

Chain 194. (Instructions are for 11 charm necklace)

Row 1: Dc 3rd chain from hook. Dc in each chain. Ch1. Turn.

Row 2: 4sc *ch2 skip next st. 3sc. Ch3. Skip next st. 3sc.* Repeat from * to * ending with ch2. Skip next st. 3sc. Ch1. Turn. (Click here if you have too many or not enough dc’s)

Row 3: *7trc in ch2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch3 space. Ch2.* Repeat from * to * 6 more times ending the last repeat with the sc in the ch3 space. Ch1. 

Add charm as follows:

With the loop already on your hook, pull to make larger. Drop the loop from the hook.

How to add charms to a crochet necklace

Pick up the charm and put hook through the hole from BACK to FRONT.

Pull loop through the hole. Make sure that the loop isn’t twisted. Slightly pull on it to make sure the thread pulls easily on the LEFT side.

Pass the loop over the charm and pull snug but not tight.

Put the hook through the top of the sc in the ch3 space.

Hook the thread and pull the thread through. 

You now have a loop on your hook to continue crocheting. This stitch also turns the charm to the front.

*Ch2. 7trc in ch 2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch 3 space. Ch1. Add charm.* Repeat from * to * until all the charms have been added.

Ch2 *7trc in ch2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch3 space. Ch2.* Repeat from * to * 6 more times ending the last repeat with the 7trc in ch2 space. 3sc in the 1st sc of the 4sc of the previous row (forms the corner for the edging).

Row 4: Working along the edge, sc in the post of the dc. 

3Sc in the back loop of the original ch. 

For a Round Necklace:

Sc in the loop of each ch to the end of the necklace to the last ch.

For a V-Shaped Necklace (or using a heavy middle charm)

Find the st above the middle charm. Count back 6 stitches. Mark this stitch with a stitch marker, safety pin, etc. Sc in the back loop of the original ch until you reach this marked stitch. Sc2tog 6 times (these 12 stitches are now 6). Sc in the back loop of each ch to the end of the necklace to the last ch

Instructions regardless of shape

3sc in the corner ch. Sc around the post of the dc. Ch as many chains as required to slip over your selected button. Sl st in the last sc you made. Sc around the sc post. Sc in corner st. 

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite the loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!


Crocheted Victorian Charm Bracelet

Chain 73. (Instructions are for 7 charms)

Row 1: Sc in 2nd chain from hook. Sc in each chain. Ch1. Turn.

Row 2: 4sc *ch2 skip next st. 3sc. Ch3. Skip next st. 3sc.* Repeat from * to * ending with ch2. Skip next st. 3sc. Ch1. Turn. (Click here if you have too many or not enough sc’s)

Row 3: *7trc in ch2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch3 space. Ch1.

Add charm as follows:

With the loop already on your hook, pull to make larger. Drop the loop from the hook.

How to add charms to a crochet necklace

Pick up the charm and put hook through the hole from BACK to FRONT.

Pull loop through the hole. Make sure that the loop isn’t twisted. Slightly pull on it to make sure the thread pulls easily on the LEFT side.

Pass the loop over the charm and pull snug but not tight.

Put the hook through the top of the sc in the ch3 space.

Hook the thread and pull the thread through. 

You now have a loop on your hook to continue crocheting. This stitch also turns the charm to the front.

*Ch2. 7trc in ch 2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch 3 space. Ch1. Add charm.* Repeat from * to * until all the charms have been added.

Ch2 *7trc in ch2 space. Ch2. Sc in ch3 space. Ch2. 7trc in ch2 space. 3sc in the 1st sc of the 4sc of the previous row (forms the corner for the edging.)

Row 4: Working along the edge, sc in the post of the sc.

3Sc in the back loop of the original ch. 

Sc in the loop of each ch to the end of the bracelet to the last ch.

3sc in the corner ch.

Sc around the post of the sc. Ch as many chains as required to slip over your selected button. Sl st in the last sc you made. Sc around the sc post. Sc in corner st. .

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite the loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

More of my stuff on Etsy:

Hints and Tips:

It is very easy to either miss a chain, chain the wrong number, or chain twice by accident in the same chain. This will throw off the counts for Row 2 and you may end up with too many or not enough dc for the necklace (sc for the bracelet) to work Row 3 over. Don’t panic! Make it work with what you have. A stitch or 2 more or less won’t ruin the final piece. You can either sc stitches together if too many or sc 2 stitches in one stitch if you don’t have enough. FYI making things work like this, works great for all projects. Many times it can be hidden in a seam or the back of the work πŸ˜‰

It’s best to pick charms that have a large hole that you can pass your crochet hook through. If not you can twist up the loop and feed it through the hole. This can be difficult and time consuming though. If the charm’s hole is sideways (hole is left to right), you can use a jump ring to get it to hang correctly.

Not sure where to get charms for your project? If you can’t find what you’re looking for locally, be sure to try Amazon, Ebay or even Etsy. Always shop local when you can and see what your craft store has in stock!

If you want to make either the bracelet or necklace longer or shorter, add or take away 8 stitches. Each group of 8 stitches is approximately 25/32″ or 2 cm. For example, if you would like the bracelet to be 1 1/2″ longer, add 16 stitches. This of course, will make the repeats for adding charms either more or less for the necklace. 

If you don’t want to make a v-neck and would prefer a choker or rounded edge, sc in the loop of each chain without sc any of them together. It will form a rounded edge. If your center charm is large or heavy the weight of the charm will naturally form a v regardless whether you gather the stitches. It will buckle awkwardly if you don’t gather the stitches.

You don’t always need to make a loop for a necklace. A long length of chains can also work. Wrap the length of chains a few times around the button to hold the necklace snug. This works great for a choker as the circumference of necks can vary and will fit more comfortably. If you’ve used heavy charms, make the loop. This fastener won’t hold it in place.

Sew the button to the final piece as shown here:

No matter what, don’t stretch out the necklace or bracelet before you are completely finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making your project. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches. 

When making the loop to secure the bracelet or necklace, chain as many stitches as you think you may need. Sl st to the sc and pass the button through the loop. If it is too small, undo the sl st and add more chains. If too long, undo the sl st and take some stitches out. It’s easier to check now than later. 

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble (or triple) crochet

sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together

ch – chain 

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.

See! It can be less morbid!
Posted on 19 Comments

How to Knit Ribbed Bootie Slippers for Adults

Knitted adult ribbed bootie slippers

I designed these knitted adult bootie slippers to be as easy to knit as possible. They are knit flat with no extra needles or special techniques required. If you know how to cast onpurlknit and cast off you will be more than capable of finishing these for yourself or someone else! If you’re not sure or need a little practice, clicking on any of the links above will show you how with a how-to knitting video demonstrating the technique πŸ˜‰ And if you’re looking for an ad free pattern you can download to your computer, tablet or phone you can get that here – How to Knit Ribbed Adult Booties or my Etsy shop for a small fee.

The pattern is written to fit feet from a ladies size 6 – 12 and a man’s 5 – 12. I’m still on the fence as whether to design these to fit children. The sizing involves a lot of math and knitting sample sizes and I’m really not too excited about taking on either of those tasks. Let me know if you want it for kids. If there’s enough of you out there, I’ll do it.

Knitted adult ribbed bootie slippers

If you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons down there πŸ‘‡πŸΌ let you do it easily and helps me immensely 😁. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


Things You Need

Click any link below to get everything you need to make these slippers mailed right to your door.

Size 8 US (5 mm) knitting needles (or whatever size you need to get the correct gauge.)

Darning Needle to sew in ends

Yarn – any standard ball of 200+ yards (220 m) of worsted weight yarn will do.

Use this to stop slippers from sliding



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.


Gauge in stockinette (Be sure to check to obtain correct sizing!)

18 sts = 4 inches

26 rows = 4 inches

Sizes are written for women’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12)

and for a men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Knitted Adult Ribbed Bootie Slippers Pattern

Heel Flap

Cast on 3

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: K, inc in next stitch, K (4 sts)

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Inc in first stitch, K2, inc in last stitch (6 sts)

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: Inc in first stitch, K4, inc in last stitch (8 sts)

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Inc in first stitch, K6, inc in last stitch (10 sts)

Row 9: Knit

Row 10: Inc in first stitch, K8, inc in last stitch (12 sts)


Starting the Ankle and Foot

Row 11: K12. Cast on 23 (26, 26, 29). You now have 35 (38, 38, 41 sts total)

Row 12: Knit across. Cast on 23 (26, 26, 29). You now have 58 (64, 64, 70 sts)

Row 13: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 14: Knit

Row 15: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 16: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

*Row 17: Knit

Row 18: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 19: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 20: Knit

Row 21: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)

Row 22: K10 (12, 12, 14), P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14)*

Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 4, 5more times.

Please note: Repeat rows 17 and 18 for every size.


Decreasing for the Foot

Next row: Cast off K10 (12, 12, 14), P12 (13, 13, 14), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15), K10 (12, 12, 14). You now have 48 (52, 52, 56 sts total).

Next row: Cast off K10 (12, 12, 14). Knit remaining stitches. You now have 38 (40, 40, 42 sts total).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

βœͺ Next row: Knit

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: Knit

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).

Next row: P13 (14, 14, 15), K12, P13 (14, 14, 15).βœͺ

Repeat from βœͺ to βœͺ 3 more times for every size.

End of Toe

Next row: K2tog across. 19 (20, 20, 21 sts)

Next row: P7 (7, 7, 8) K6 P6 (7, 7, 7)

Next row: K2tog across. Knit the last stitch for ladies’ size 6-7 and 12 or men’s size 5-6 and 11-12.

Break yarn and pull through.

Make another slipper to match.

Sew seams and work in ends.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca.


Hints and Tips

When starting the slipper, leave a long length of yarn when casting on. You can use this length to sew up the back seam of the slipper and will give less ends to sew in when done.

Work in the ends and don’t just knot them off. The knots will rub on the wearer’s foot and make them decidedly uncomfortable.

When sewing the seams, be sure to yank on them a bit before working in the ends. You want as much yarn securing the seams so that the seam will stretch the length of the foot and the ankle.

When casting off for the ankle, be sure to do so loosely. It will allow the seam to stretch.

In case you’re not sure what part of the slipper you are making and how it goes together, I’ve added some pictures that will help.

Knitted Ribbed Adult Booties Slipper Pattern

How it goes together. Fold it in half and sew the seams for the toe and ankle.

Knitted Ribbed Adult Booties Slipper Pattern

There has been a bit of confusion on how to sew the seams along the back of the slippers, so I knit another pair and took a few photos to show what the back of the slipper should look like. 

Below are two photos showing how to flip up the heel flap triangle and fit it into the back of the slipper. Sew the back seam down to where the top of the heel flap triangle reaches without stretching it. Sew each side of the triangle to the remaining rows along each side as shown.

How to sew the back seam of ribbed adult slippers.
Sew the seam of ribbed adult slippers.

Happy knitting!


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How to Crochet – Free Crochet Flower Pattern

How to Crochet a Flower

Nice idea, but what can I do with a crocheted flower, you may be asking yourself? Well, you can do a lot with them actually. In particular, I designed this pattern to be the perfect size to be a ring. Make a matching set and you have a pair of earrings. Sew the flowers together and you can make a necklace or choker. Add them as an embellishment on one of my existing crochet bracelet patterns. You can see those by click these links: Quick and Easy Bracelet, Fans Bracelet, and Waves Bracelet. If you come up with more ideas, I loved to read about them in my comment section below πŸ˜€.

How to crochet a flower
Crochet flower sewn to Fans Bracelet. Click this link to get that pattern.

I have been designing crochet flowers for number of years but never really got around to publishing any of them to share. Most are done on the fly, free from crochet if you will, with more and more detail being added to each time I make a new crochet flower.


I have shared a few of my flower designs, in particular my Friendship and Flower Bracelet crochet pattern that has been relatively popular. Mostly I’ve been making flowers to add to my art projects like you can see in my Etsy shop and here:


Depending on the response to this, my first stand alone crochet flower pattern, I may add the others.

While I wouldn’t consider this project crochet for beginners, if you know your basic crochet stitches, this is quick and fairly easy to make. Originally when I designed this I was aiming for a crochet sunflower. While it is a bit small to be a sunflower, It does have a sunflower type feel to it. At least I feel it does. Depending on your colour selections, you really can make this be any sort of generic “crochet flower”.

But without further ado, except for the handy share icons πŸ˜‰, here is how to crochet a flower step by step and what you will need.


Things You Will Need:

Crochet cotton thread (size 10) – 2 colours of your choice

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook

Ring base (I prefer the kind that is pictured here. It gives more security when you tie it on and fits any size finger.)

Needle to sew in the ends and attach to ring base.

Crocheting the Flower:

With the centre colour crochet thread

Ch 2 (make the first loop slightly larger so you can fit in the sc coming up).

Row 1: 9 sc in 2nd ch from the hook. Join with sl st in the top of the first sc (not the ch. Ignore it. It’ll be fine. Trust me.)

Row 2: Ch 2, sc, ch 1 in each st around. Join in the ch 1 space. (not in the first ch or the original ch 2. Once again, trust me.) Break thread.

Row 3: Join petal colour thread in any ch 1 space. Ch 2, tr (wrap thread 2 times around hook), tr +1 (wrap thread 3 times around hook), tr, dc. Ch 1. Turn. Join with sl st to top of ch 2. Ch 2. *In next ch 1 space, dc, tr , tr +1 , tr, dc. Ch 1. Turn. Join with sl st to top of the first dc. Ch 2.* Repeat around. Join with a sl st to the sl st at the top of the ch 2 of first petal made. Break thread.

Work in the ends. Sew the flower to the ring base.


Hints and Tips:

When starting your flower, leave a generous tail when you make your original ch 2. You can use this thread to sew the flower to the ring.

Hold your thread to the back of your work when making the petals if you can. If you catch the thread when making a few stitches, it will stay in place without any extra sewing. (I really need to show how to do this with some photos at some point. It’s a huge time saver.)

If you can’t find the shade of crochet cotton thread that you want, you’ll be able to find the embroidery thread (aka embroidery floss) that is the correct colour. For the life of me I can’t find any brown crochet cotton thread locally so I decided to use embroidery thread instead. It worked great! It’s actually the centre of the crochet sunflower. Couldn’t tell could you πŸ˜‰. You will have to separate 2 or 3 threads from the skein to acquire the same thickness as the crochet cotton thread. I found 2 pulled out worked best but it may be different depending on what embroidery thread you’re using.

You can make as many petals on the flowers as you like. Either add more original sc at the beginning and corresponding number of sc, ch 1 on the second row. Be carful though. Too many and the flower won’t lie flat. Not enough and it will look less full and not be enough to go around.

If you ended up with more or less petals than 9, technically, you made it wrong. It doesn’t really matter. But if you’re trying to make a product to sell or make a matching set for earrings or a choker, make sure you do it the same way every time. You want to be consistent. To get 9 ch 1 spaces exactly each time, I count the number of ch 1’s I make INCLUDING the first ch 1 at the start of row 2 (the first ch of the ch 2 is really a sc. The 2nd ch is creating the ch 1 space), then I join in the first ch 1 space I made.

You can adjust the size of the petals by changing up the stitches used to make them. Smaller stitch combo’s such as sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc in each ch 1 space will make it smaller. Tr, tr +1, (3 times around hook), dtr (4 times around the hook) tr tr, tr can give some interesting effects.

I prefer the ring type that I’ve shown in the affiliate link (yes, I’ll make a bit of money from the sale) but you may prefer something else. I’ve tried a variety of glues and double sided tape (even professional grade) and none of the products worked to my satisfaction in holding the final crochet flower to the ring base. I found sewing it on by passing the thread through the middle hole and around the sides held it securely. And I could also find these bases easily at my local big box craft store. πŸ˜‰

Crochet flower sewn to the ring.

I never ironed my crochet flower before sewing it to the base. It wouldn’t hurt but it’s a very stitch dense item and I don’t think it would really do much to the finished crochet flower.


Abbreviations:

Sl st – slip stitch

Ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet. Wrap the thread 1 time around the hook.

tr – treble crochet. Wrap the thread 2 times around the hook.

tr +1 – treble crochet plus one additional thread wrap. Wrap the thread 3 times around the hook. (This isn’t a standard stitch so I just made up the most logical name and abbreviation).

Posted on 10 Comments

Free Knitted Slipper Pattern – With Owls!

Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern

Awesome cozy knitted slippers for women and men with a delightful cabled owl motif. The inspiration came to me while scrolling through the wonders of the internet and stumbling on other knitted slippers that were made in one piece on circular needles but back and forth. I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out, the pattern wasn’t in English, so I decided to design my own!

I came up with a very basic knitted slipper design, but then was inspired to make the top of the toe something special. I loved the look of a knitted cable owls on hats, mitts and scarves and next thing you know, this pattern was born! But also realize not everyone wants owls. That’s why I’ve written another pattern with no owls. You can see that pattern here – Free Knitted Slipper Pattern


Like most of my knitting patterns, this one is available for download, ad free, for a very small fee here – Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern or from my Etsy Shop. If you enjoy this pattern and my other free online knitting patterns, please consider making a small donation or helping me out by visiting my Help Support My Work page. If that’s not possible, that’s totally fine too! Even sharing this page on your social media helps me out immensely. You can use those buttons πŸ‘‡πŸΌ to do so easily.


Please be warned, this is not a pattern for beginners. I used a very different technique involving multiple sets of needles. I included photos to demonstrate how I’m using the extra set and it totally works! Trust me.

Things You Need

If you are uncertain or having trouble finding what you need to make these slippers, clicking any of the links below will show you exactly what you need. And if you decide to order through Amazon, it will be delivered right to your door and help support the hosting costs of the website (I do get a small commission from sales through Amazon).

1 ball of worsted weight yarn (average 260 yard, 5 oz or 141 gram ball will be more than enough). I used Red Heart worsted weight yarn when designing the pattern.

2 sets of size 4 mm (US size 6) single point knitting needles.

Stitch holder

Cable needle

4 – 4 mm beads for eyes. You can use larger ones or very small buttons, too.

Needle and thread to sew on eyes

Tapestry needle to sew in ends. You can also use this handy tutorial to show you how to work in the ends while knitting these slippers.

Try this to make your slippers less slippery



You can also try this link if the product above are sold out – Sock Stop.

Gauge

With size 4 mm (US size 6) needles or whatever size you need to obtain the correct number of stitches and rows. Be sure to check your gauge otherwise the sizing won’t be correct.

Instockinette

4” = 20 sts

4” = 30 rows

Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern

Sizes (are written as such)

Women’s 6-7 (8-9,10-11, 12-13)

Men’s 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

To Begin

Cast on 44 (48, 54, 58)

Row 1- 6: Knit across. Break yarn when completed row 6.

Owl Slipper Knitting Pattern

Toe Flap

Row 7: With RIGHT side facing, transfer the first 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches to a stitch holder. Reattach the yarn and knit the next 14 stitches (the start of the toe flap with the owl motif). Leave the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the needle unworked.

The following rows are worked back and forth on the 14 toe flap stitches only!

Row 8: Purl across (14 stitches; wrong side)

Row 9: Knit across. (Right side)

Row 10: Purl across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: Purl across.

Row 13: K2 P1 K8 P1 K2

Row 14: P2 K1 P8 K1 P2

Row 15: K2 P1 C4F C4B P1 K2

Row 16: As row 14 (Wrong side)

Row 17: As row 13

Row 18: As row 14

Row 19: As row 13

Row 20: As row 14

Row 21: As row 15 (Cables; Right side)

Row 22: P2 K1 P2 K4 P2 K1 P2

Row 23: K2 P1 K2 P4 K2 P1 K2

Row 24: As row 22

Row 25: As row 23 (Right side)

Row 26: As row 22

Row 27: As row 23

Row 28: As row 22

Row 29: As row 15 (Cables; Right side)

Row 30: P2 K10 P2 (Wrong side)

Row 31: Knit across.

Row 32: Purl across. Break yarn. You’ll have the 14 stitches of the toe flap on your needle and the 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches you left on the needle when you started making the toe flap.


Making the Sides of the Slipper

This is where you’re going to need the extra set of knitting needles. You’ll be knitting back and forth in rows but the turn around the toe is too tight to use circular needles. For this, you’ll put the 14 toe flap stitches on one of your extra needles. It’s a little unconventional, but it works.

Row 33: With the RIGHT side facing, transfer the 15 (17, 20, 22)stitches from the stitch holder onto one of your needles. Attach your yarn and knit the 15 (17, 20,22) stitches. Pick up 13 stitches evenly along the edge of the toe flap. (All of these stitches are on ONE needle. (28, 30, 33, 35) stitches on this needle)

With another needle, knit the 14 stitches of the toe flap. Leave the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the other needle unworked for now. (14 stitches on this needle)

With another needle, pick up 13 stitches evenly along the side of the toe flap. Knit the remaining 15 (17, 20, 22) stitches on the next needle. (28, 30, 33, 35 stitches on this needle)

You should now have 3 needles holding stitches with all the points pointing as shown below when laid flat. You also have one spare needle to knit with. You are now going to knit in rows, back and forth with these three needles. Once you finish knitting all the stitches on one needle, move on to the next needle (the point of the needle is right there) until you complete the row.

Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern. Setting up your needles for the sides.

Another way to say it for the following rows, knit all the stitches forming the side of the slipper, knit the 14 stitches holding the toe flap stitches, then knit the other side of the slipper (counts as one row). Turn. Repeat.

Knit the next 9 (11, 13, 15, 17) rows

There are 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges on the tip of the toe.

The photo below shows the 6 ridges for the women’s size 8-9 or the men’s 7-8.

Knitted Owl Slipper Pattern - Toes

Making the Sole

Next Row: With WRONG side facing. Cast off all the stitches from the first needle loosely. You’ll need to pass the last stitch from the first needle over the first stitch of the toe flap stitches (second needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole
Knitted Owl Slippers - Making the Sole

Using the same needle that now has one stitch, knit the remaining 13 stitches of the toe flap. Cast off all the stitches from the third needle loosely. Break yarn.

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, attach yarn and knit the first stitch of the cast off stitches by the toe flap (cast off stitch on the right by the point of the needle).

Knitted Owl Slippers Pattern - This Stitch

(The photo above is taken from the wrong side. It’s hard to see it from the right side)

Knitting Pattern

(This photo is taken from the right side.)

K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).

Knitting Pattern - Owl Slippers

(Left edge)

Quick tip – wrap the yarn counterclockwise around your needle and turn it down to pull the yarn through the cast off stitch on the right. If you have a hard time doing this, you can also use a crochet hook to pull the loop through and place that loop on your working needle.

You now are working back and forth along the bottom of the foot picking up one cast off stitch on each side as you go.

Next Row: Knit across.

*Next Row: Pick up the next stitch of the cast off stitches. K2tog. Knit to the last 2 stitches K2tog. Pick up the cast off stitch on the other side of the slipper by the point of your needle. (14 stitches).Click herefor some help on picking up the correct cast off stitches.

Owl Slippers Knitting Pattern - Pick up a Stitch

(Right edge)

Next Row: Knit across*

Repeat from * to * down the entire length of the foot. There are equal number of cast off stitches along each side. How many rows varies depending on the size of slipper you’re making. Be sure to end with a completed knit across row.

More of my stuff on Etsy

Making the Heel

Next Row: With the RIGHT side facing, count down 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit to the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (12 stitches)

Owl Slippers knitting pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges on the right edge for women’s size 8-9 or men’s size 7-8.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern
Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

The photo above shows 9 rows of ridges on the left edge for women’s size 8-9 or men’s size 7-8.

Owl Slippers - Free Knitting Pattern

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 7 (8, 9, 10,11) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (10 stitches)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 4 (5, 6, 7, 8) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (8 stitches)

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Count down 3 (4, 5, 6, 7) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it.

Next Row: Knit across.

Next Row: Count down 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. K2tog twice. Knit until the last 4 stitches. K2tog twice. Count down 2 (3, 4, 5, 6) ridges and pick up a stitch in the space beneath it. (6 stitches)

Next row: Knit across.

❀︎ Next Row: Pick up a stitch along the edge in the space beneath the next ridge. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch along the edge beneath the next ridge.

Next Row: Knit across. β€οΈŽ

Repeat from β€οΈŽ to β€οΈŽ until there are no more ridges.

Last Row: Pick up a stitch along the top. K2tog. Knit until the last 2 stitches. K2tog. Pick up a stitch along the top.

Cast off.


Hints and Tips

When picking up stitches from the cast off row, be sure you’re really moving on to the next cast off stitch! It’s an easy mistake to make. If in doubt, give the needle holding the stitches a bit of a tug. You’ll see the yarn move slightly at the very back, closest to the needle. Pick up a stitch at the NEXT cast off stitch.

If you don’t have the same number of stitches on both sides when you are forming the sole, you may have picked up a stitch twice in one stitch or missed one. Don’t worry! This is fixable. You can skip one cast off stitch if you need to make it even, or pick up a cast off stitch twice on the other side. There’s enough stretch in the slipper that any puckering this causes won’t be overly visible if you’re off by a stitch or two.

Picking up the stitches evenly along the toe flap is about 1 stitch every other row.

An odd row is always the right side of your work; an even row is the wrong side

To speed up finishing the slippers and not have so many ends to sew in, hold the yarn ends to the back of your work as you knit.

Abbreviations

k – knit

p – purl

k2tog – knit 2 together

st – stitch

sts – stitches

C4F (cable 4 forward) – With the cable needle, transfer the next 2 stitches to your cable needle. Bring these stitches to the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the needle. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C4B (cable 4 back) – With the cable needle, transfer the next 2 stitches to your cable needle. Bring these stitches to the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches from the needle. Knit the stitches from the cable needle.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.

To see how you can keep the free patterns coming, visiting this page – Help Support My Work!  A financial donation is always appreciated but a share, like and follow on social media also helps me immensely πŸ₯°


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Adorable Sheep Slippers – FREE Knitting Pattern

Adult Sheep Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

Aren’t these the cutesiest things! This is one of my first patterns I ever wrote and I still make these for anyone who wants a pair.

A few basics before we start…to make these you need to know how to knit on double pointed needles and knit in the round. This is not a beginner project! It’s not tough to make these slippers, but you may need to practice a bit first. There is a FREE sock tutorial on my blog which is an excellent place to learn to make a basic pair of socks so you can master the technique.


To cast on, I cast all the stitches on one needle, then take the first 1/3 of the stitches and slip them onto a free needle, then take the last 1/3 of the stitches and put those on another needle, leaving the remaining 1/3 on the original needle. This method helps me to not twists my stitches. I then start to knit. 

If you appreciate the free knitting patterns and how-to videos, please consider helping to off-set the cost of the web hosting for this site. You can go to my Help Support My Work page to make a one time donation or subscribe to give a little every month. Can’t contribute financially? That’s cool too! Sharing this page with everyone you know will help me immensely. You can use the links I’ve provided below.


Not wanting to read this behemoth online and would prefer to download the ad free version this knitting pattern for a small fee/donation? You can read it here – How to Knit Adult Sheep Slippers.

Things You Need:

Clicking any links below to get everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.

Worsted weight yarn (I’m a fan of Red Heart only because of it’s price, it’s easy to find, wears and washes well).

Size 8 US double pointed needles (Size 5.00 mm if you’re Canadian) aka – dpn

Wiggley Eyes

Felt ( For ears and optional)

2 small buttons or small pom poms for the nose.

Darning needle to work in ends

Adult Sheep Slippers - FREE Knitting Pattern

Gauge:

Also, check your tension first! With worsted weight yarn, you’ll need a tension of: 

10 stitches = 2 inches 

14 rows = 2 inches 

The abbreviations are standard:

K = Knit

P = Purl

K2 tog = Knit 2 stitches together

P2 tog = Purl 2 stitches together

FS = Fluff Stitch. This is the loop stitch and is described in detail here. There is also a complete how-to video at the end of this pattern. You can watch that here – Fluff or Loop Stitch Video

Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need. 

So let’s go… 

Cast on 36 stitches 

Rounds 1-15: *K2 P2; repeat from * around 

Round 16 – 20: Knit 

Heel flap:

Slip last 9 stitches from round 17 to free needle, knit next 9 stitches from next needle onto needle with the 9 slipped stitches from round 17. You will have four needles and will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Transfer the three stitches on the two needles onto the back needle. Split these 18 stitches between two needles. It will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

You will work these split 18 stitches later to form the top of the foot.

Turn your work. You are now creating the heel flap from the slipped stitches and will work in rows along the 18 stitches that are on the single needle.

With the wrong side (Purl side) facing you. Purl the row. Turn.

With the right side (Knit side) facing you. Knit the row. Turn.

Repeat stocking knit (Purl one row, Knit one row) until the flap measure approximately 2 1/2 inches ending with a Purl row. Turn.

With right side (Knit side) facing you K8 stitches, K2 tog, K8. Turn. (17 stitches on the needle)

Next row: P8, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K1, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P2 , P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K3, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P4, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K5, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P6, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K7, K2 tog, K1.

You will now start knitting around.

Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form the gusset. Transfer the 18 held stitches to one needle. Knit the 18 held stitches. Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form gusset.

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

K4 stitches of heel. Slip remaining 5 stitches onto next needle. It will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Your needles will hold:

15 stitches side of foot

18 stitches top of foot

14 stitches side of foot

Next round: Knit. Knit another 15 sts until you are at the start of the 18 sts that make up the top of the foot.

Next round: Turn your work inside out! 


With wrong side facing you (Purl side). P1, P2tog. P23 P2tog. P1. 

Top of foot (over the 18 stitches): P1. FS16

To make the Fluff stitch (FS): *Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up

To make the Fluff stitch (FS): Insert needle into to next stitch as if to KNIT. Wrap the yarn (up & over) CLOCKWISE around the needle and the index finger of your LEFT hand TWICE. Leave these loops on your finger until you are finished knitting the entire stitch!

Knitting the loop stitch

Wrap the yarn ONCE around the needle only.

Knitting the loop stitch

Pull all 3 loops of yarn through stitch as knitting a regular stitch.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert the needle in your LEFT hand through these three loops and transfer these 3 loops onto the LEFT hand needle.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.

Knitting the loop stitch

Insert you RIGHT hand needle through these three loops as if to knit.

Knitting the loop stitch
Knitting the loop stitch

The stitch is now completed.

Pattern continued…. P1 in the last remaining stitch from the needle that was holding the 18 stitches that formed the top of the foot.

Next round: P45 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P21, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

Next round: P43 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P19, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

Next round: P41 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P17, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

Next round: P39 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P15, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

Next round: P37 

Next round: P1, P2 tog, P13, P2 tog, P2, FS16, P1. 

*Next round: P35 

Next round: P18, FS16, P1. * Repeat from * to * until measures the length you want less 2 1/2 inches. To measure lay the sock flat and measure from the needle holding the side gusset stitches to the back of the heel.

Women’s Men’s
Sizes (USA)In InchesSize (USA)In Inches
58 11/1679 11/16
5 Β½8 13/167Β½9 13/16
69810
6Β½9 3/168Β½10 3/16
79 5/16910 5/16
7Β½9 Β½
89 11/16
8Β½9 13/16
910
9Β½10 3/16
1010 5/16
Sizes larger than 10 5/16 inches need extra stitches cast on to go around the foot. Recommended for experienced knitters only!

Next round: P35 

Next round: P17. Flip your work right side out! With Knit side facing. 


Toe:

Rounds 1-10: Knit (35 stitches)

Round 11: K1, K2 tog, K11, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K1 

Round 12: Knit 

Round 13: K1, K2 tog, K9, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K10, K2tog, K1 

Round 14: Knit 

Round 15: K1, K2 tog, K7, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K8, K2tog, K1 

Round 16: Knit 

Round 17: K1, K2 tog, K5, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K1 

Round 18: Knit 

Round 19: K1, K2 tog, K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K1 

Your needles will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Transfer stitches onto two needles. 7 stitches and 8 stitches on each needle.

Break yarn leaving enough to graft toe and sew in ends. 12 inches is plenty.

Graft toe:

With a darning needle, insert the needle through the front loop of the first needle as if to PURL.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert needle through the stitch on the back needle as shown.

How to graft stitches knitting

Insert the needle through the back loop of the first stitch AND through the stitch of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.



Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch.


🌺 Insert the needle through the back loop of the next stitch on the front needle and the front loop of the next stitch as if to PURL. Drop the first stitch.


Insert the needle through the stitch on the back needle as if to PURL. Drop this stitch. 🌺


Repeat from 🌺 to 🌺 until there are no stitches left on either needle.


 Pull the yarn tight.


Toe is now grafted.

Make another slipper to match!


Extra Knitting Tips:

Check your tension first! There’s nothing more disappointing than putting a bunch of effort into a project and then having it turn out to be the wrong size. The gauge of the rows is not so important for this project as you can make it to fit any size foot. The number of stitches per inch is VERY important! Make sure your gauge is correct.

Work in your ends instead of just knotting them off. Knots can make your foot sore when you step on them or if they rub on your toe.

This pattern can make any size slipper up to about a man’s size 9 or a woman’s size 10. If you want a bigger size make sure your increase the heel flap length and pick up more stitches when you make the gusset of the sock.

You don’t have to use googly eyes and pompoms for the face but I like to. I’ve also used buttons and they have also turned out well. I prefer to use Beacon Quick Grip glue to stick on the eyes and noses. It’s water proof and it works. I even tested it in my washing machine and dryer and everything remained in place. It didn’t discolour or become unglued.

If you would like to make the ears out of felt like I did, make a template from paper first and see if you like the size and how it fits. Cut a second template smaller than the main colour for the inside of the ear. I glued the pieces together and then sewed the ears to the second row in from face. Fiddle around with it to see where you like the placement best.

You can also make knitted ears with a bit of pink yarn, if you have it, or out of the yarn you knitted the slippers with originally. I made triangles and sewed them together. The inside pink was 2 stitches cast on less than the outside white portion. For example, Cast on 12 sts for the white and 10 sts for the pink.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.



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Diamonds Dishcloth – FREE Knitting Pattern

Diamonds Dishcloth Knitting Pattern

The dishcloth obsession continues, though I am getting a bit weary of these. Time to get around to making more art pieces.

So I’m providing this in two sizes – roughly 7 inches square and 8 inches square. The smaller size seemed almost a smidgen too small but the larger one seemed a bit larger than I would like. I suppose it could have easily been fixed with changing needle sizes but I figured I let others deal with that. With that said, this knitting pattern is written accordingly. The larger size repeat counts are in brackets.


It’s important to note that for this specific knitting pattern, odd rows are NOT the right side of your work. The dropping and picking up stitches happens on what would be usually considered the WRONG side or all even rows. So in short, the right side of your work is all the EVEN rows.

Also, I’ve included a bunch of photos to help you along with YO, dropping stitches, slipping stitches and making the crossed over stitches. The YO, slipping and dropping stitches are standard stitches and if you’re an experienced knitter, you probably won’t need the photos. I’ve included the photos as you go along in the pattern, but if you already feel comfortable with these stitches, the pattern is also written without the photos further down the post here – the pattern without the photos.

Diamonds Dishcloth Knitting Pattern

If you are loving the free patterns, please consider helping me out offsetting the hosting costs of the website. You can learn more by going to this page – Help Support My Work. If you can’t make a small donation, that’s OK πŸ˜„. Instead, you can help others see my work by using the share buttons up there πŸ‘‡πŸΌ. It’s such an easy thing to do and helps me so much.


Things you will need:

Click any of the links below to get everything you need to make this dishcloth.

Size 3.75 mm (size 5 US) crochet hook (for edging. You may need larger or smaller depending on your tension)

1 ball of crochet cotton yarn (the 1.5 oz balls are more than enough)

Darning needle to work in the ends

Size 5 mm (size 8 US) single point knitting needles

Cable needle – VERY optional and only necessary if dropped stitch is unraveling.

Pattern With the Photos

Cast on 34 (40 sts)

Row 1: Purl across (wrong side)

Row 2: Knit across (right side)

πŸ¦‹ Row 3: P2 YO 🐌 P5 YO P1 YO 🐌 Repeat from 🐌 to 🐌 3 (4) more times. P5 YO P3

Row 4: K2 SL1

Slipping a stitch
Arrow points to YO stitch. Stitch on the right is the one you slip onto the working needle.
Slipping the stitches
Slipping the stitch from your needle onto your working needle. Do NOT work this stitch!

Drop the YO

Drop this stitch
Let this stitch fall off your needle. Do NOT work it in any way!
YO dropped

K4 πŸ› SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO, K4 πŸ› Repeat from πŸ› to πŸ› 3 (4) more times. SL1, Drop the YO, K2

Row 5: P2 SL1 P4 πŸ₯ SL2 P4 πŸ₯ Repeat πŸ₯ to πŸ₯ 3 (4) more times. SL1 P2

Row 6: K2 πŸ¦‰ Drop the next stitch

Drop this stitch
This is the stitch you’re going to drop.
Stitch dropped
Stitch dropped.

K2. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle.

Pick up dropped stitch

Knit this stitch.

Pick up the dropped stitch
Drop stitch knitted.

SL2.

Slip these two stitches onto your working needle.

Drop the next stitch.

Two stitches passed over and stitch dropped.

Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle.

Stitches passed back to non-working needle.

Pick up and knit the dropped stitch.

Picking up the stitch.
Working the stitch.
Cross over complete.

K2 πŸ¦‰ Repeat from πŸ¦‰ to πŸ¦‰ 4 (5) more times. K2

Row 7: 🐊 P4 YO P1 YO P1 🐊 Repeat from 🐊 to 🐊 4 (5) more times. P4

Row 8: πŸ¦ƒ K4, SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO πŸ¦ƒ Repeat πŸ¦ƒ to πŸ¦ƒ 4 (5) more times. K4

Row 9: 🐬 P4 SL2 🐬 Repeat from 🐬 to 🐬 4 (5) more times. P4

Row 10: K2 πŸ¦† SL2, Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle and knit this stitch. K2. Drop the next stitch. K2. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. πŸ¦† Repeat from πŸ¦† to πŸ¦† 4 (5) more times. K2. πŸ¦‹

Repeat from πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹ 4 (5) more times. (Rows 3 – 10 make up one repeat of the diamond motif).

Next row: Purl across

Next row: Cast off. Do NOT cut the yarn, unless you are making the edging a different colour.

Edging:

To make things as easy as possible, I’ve embedded the (very) old video I made demonstrating how to do this technique. It’s basically a backwards single crochet (Bsc) that creates a more ropey kind of look.

You may have to play around a bit with the size of hook that’s going to work the best for you. For me, based on my tension for knitting the dishcloth and tension for how I crochet, a 3.75 mm crochet hook worked best.

Row 1: With right side facing, and in the first cast off stitch that you can easily insert your hook, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc in every 2nd cast off stitch along the top and bottom edges

Skip every other stitch.
Insert your hook like this.
Hook the yarn and pull through.
Hook the yarn again and pull through the two loops. Stitch made.

Bsc in every other row along the sides.

Insert hook in this stitch when working along the rows.

Join to the start of the row. Work in ends.

I found there is enough slack that you don’t need multiple stitches in the corner.

Pattern Without the Photos

Cast on 34 (40 sts)

Row 1: Purl across (wrong side)

Row 2: Knit across (right side)

πŸ¦‹ Row 3: P2 YO 🐌 P5 YO P1 YO 🐌 Repeat from 🐌 to 🐌 3 (4) more times. P5 YO P3

Row 4: K2 SL1, Drop the YO, K4 πŸ› SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO, K4 πŸ› Repeat from πŸ› to πŸ› 3 (4) more times. SL1, Drop the YO, K2

Row 5: P2 SL1 P4 πŸ₯ SL2 P4 πŸ₯ Repeat πŸ₯ to πŸ₯ 3 (4) more times. SL1 P2

Row 6: K2 πŸ¦‰ Drop the next stitch, K2. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle. Knit this stitch. SL2 Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. K2 πŸ¦‰ Repeat from πŸ¦‰ to πŸ¦‰ 4 (5) more times. K2

Row 7: 🐊 P4 YO P1 YO P1 🐊 Repeat from 🐊 to 🐊 4 (5) more times. P4

Row 8: πŸ¦ƒ K4, SL1, Drop the YO, SL1, Drop the YO πŸ¦ƒ Repeat πŸ¦ƒ to πŸ¦ƒ 4 (5) more times. K4

Row 9: 🐬 P4 SL2 🐬 Repeat from 🐬 to 🐬 4 (5) more times. P4

Row 10: K2 πŸ¦† SL2, Drop the next stitch. Pass the 2 slipped stitches back to the non-working needle. Pick up the dropped stitch with the non-working needle and knit this stitch. K2. Drop the next stitch. K2. Pick up and knit the dropped stitch. πŸ¦† Repeat from πŸ¦† to πŸ¦† 4 (5) more times. K2. πŸ¦‹.

Repeat from πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹ 4 (5) more times. (Rows 3 – 10 make up one repeat of the diamond motif).

Next row: Purl across

Next row: Cast off

Edging:

The edging is a backwards single crochet (Bsc) that creates a more ropey kind of look.

You may have to play around a bit with the size of hook that’s going to work the best for you. For me, based on my tension for knitting the dishcloth and tension for how I crochet, a 3.75 mm crochet hook worked best.

Row 1: With right side facing, and in the first cast off stitch that you can easily insert your hook, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc in every 2nd cast off stitch along the top and bottom edges. Bsc in every other row along the sides.

Join to the start of the row. Work in ends.

I found there is enough slack that you don’t need multiple stitches in the corner.

Hints and Tips:

You may have to play around a bit with the size of the crochet hook you use.

I haven’t had any problem with the dropped stitch unraveling while knitting other stitches. If you do, you can use a cable needle to hold it in place.

Try a variation in colours too! You could make each diamond repeat a different colour. What’s marked with πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹. And you can also make the edging a different colour like I did. It would be a great way to use up the extra bits of cotton yarn you have.

Abbreviations:

Non-working needle – Left needle if you are right handed. Right needle if you are left handed)

YO – Yarn Over. When doing a YO for the purl stitch, pull your yarn to the back of your work (like you were going to knit) and purl the next stitch. The yarn will form an extra stitch on your needle.

How to YO when purling.
Starting the yarn over
How to YO when purling.
Pull the yarn to the back of your work
How to yarn over (YO) when purling.
Pull your yarn forward and work the stitch. Increase made.
The yarn over (increased stitched)

K – Knit

P – Purl

SL – Slip the next stitch, without working it, onto your working needle. (Right needle if you’re right handed. Left needle if you’re left handed).

Bsc – Backwards single crochet.

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Cute AF Bows Dishcloth – FREE Knitting Pattern

Knitted Dishcloth Pattern - With Bows!

So social distancing and forced unemployment seems to be going well for me…or at least incredibly productive as far as my pattern designing goes. Sigh! It certainly is a weird time. Anywho…


If you’ve done a little knitting before and are looking for something that’s a bit more challenging, why not give this knitted dishcloth pattern a whirl! It’s not overly complicated and looks awesome when you’re done. If you know knitting basics, you can easily get this done in an evening over the course of a couple of hours. If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting onknit stitchpurl, and bind off.


I really like this bow motif. In case you haven’t run across my other use of these cute AF bows, check out my Easy to Knit Bows Slippers knitting pattern. The bows themselves are made as you go and guaranteed to never fall off. For convenience, I’ve included the same pictorial showing how you knit them. If you’ve already made enough bows to choke a small horse, I have the pattern written in full without all the photos – The Whole Damn Pattern Written Without the Photos.


If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons πŸ‘†πŸΌ to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

Due to the popularity of other PDF’s I’ve been creating, I finally got around to making the downloadable version of this pattern. For a minimal cost of 99Β’ (USD), you can download the ad free version. You can get it directly from this website here – How to Knit a Cute AF Bows Dishcloth. If you would prefer to use another online retailer to download from, you can also find and download this pattern on Ravelry or Etsy.

Make sure you check out my other dishcloth patterns on this site. You may be interested in checking out: Diamonds Dishcloth (No download available, yet), Bars and Stripes Knitted Dishcloth Pattern, Knit a Simple Dishcloth, and How to Knit a Dishcloth (great for beginners and has a complete how-to video). There are other crochet dishcloth patterns on my site, too.

Free Knitted Dishcloth Pattern - With Bows!

Things you will need:

Click on any of the links below to get exactly what you need for this project sent right to your door.

1 ball of worsted weight cotton yarn (usually you’ll use less than one whole small 1.5 oz ball like those shown below).

Size 4.5 mm (US 7) knitting single point knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew seams and work in the ends


Gauge: 

Doesn’t really matter for this project. If you use a larger needle it will be a looser knit and may use more than one small ball of cotton yarn.

Cast on 35

Row 1 – 7: K1 across.

Row 8: K5 P25 K5

πŸ™ Row 9: K5 🐞 P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).

Purl the next stitch.

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K5🐞 Repeat from 🐞 to 🐞 2 more times.

(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 🐞 P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5🐞 Repeat from 🐞 to 🐞 2 more times.

Row 10: K5 🐒 K1 P3 K1 P5 🐒 Repeat from 🐒 to 🐒 1 more time. K1 P3 K6

Row 11: Repeat row 9.

Row 12: Repeat row 10.

Row 13: Repeat row 9.

Row 14: Repeat row 10. The bow portion will look like this.

 How to knit a bow

Row 15: K5 πŸ¦₯ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.

How to knit a bow

Knit the next stitch.

How to knit a bow

Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K1 P1 K5 πŸ¦₯. Repeat from πŸ¦₯ to πŸ¦₯ 2 more times.

(Row 15 rewritten without photos: K5 πŸ¦₯ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5πŸ¦₯ Repeat from πŸ¦₯ to πŸ¦₯ 2 more times.

The bow portion will look like this.

How to knit a bow

Row 16: As row 10

Row 17: K across

Row 18: As row 8.

Row 19: K10 πŸ¦” P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 πŸ¦” Repeat from πŸ¦” to πŸ¦” once. K5.

Row 20: K5 P5 🦜 K1 P3 K1 P5 🦜 Repeat from 🦜 to 🦜 1 more time. K5.

Row 21: As row 19.

Row 22: As row 20.

Row 23: As row 19

Row 24: As row 20

Row 25: K10. 🦈 P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 🦈 Repeat from 🦈 to 🦈 1 more time. K5

Row 26: Repeat row 20.

Row 27: Knit across.

Row 28: As row 8. πŸ™ Repeat πŸ™ to πŸ™ (row 9 to row 28 make the pattern.)

Repeat rows 9 -17 once.

Knit across 5 rows.

Cast off


The Whole Damn Pattern Without Any Photos

It’s actually very repetitive like most simple knitted dishcloth patterns.

Cast on 35

Row 1 – 7: K1 across.

Row 8: K5 P25 K5

πŸ™ Row 9: K5 🐞 P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5🐞 Repeat from 🐞 to 🐞 2 more times.

Row 10: K5 🐒 K1 P3 K1 P5 🐒 Repeat from 🐒 to 🐒 1 more time. K1 P3 K6

Row 11: Repeat row 9.

Row 12: Repeat row 10.

Row 13: Repeat row 9.

Row 14: Repeat row 10. The bow portion will look like this.

Row 15: K5 πŸ¦₯ P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch. Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 πŸ¦₯. Repeat from πŸ¦₯ to πŸ¦₯ 2 more times.

Row 16: As row 10

Row 17: K across

Row 18: As row 8.

Row 19: K10 πŸ¦” P1. Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch. K5 πŸ¦” Repeat from πŸ¦” to πŸ¦” once. K5.

Row 20: K5 P5 🦜 K1 P3 K1 P5 🦜 Repeat from 🦜 to 🦜 1 more time. K5.

Row 21: As row 19.

Row 22: As row 20.

Row 23: As row 19

Row 24: As row 20

Row 25: K10. 🦈 P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1 K5 🦈 Repeat from 🦈 to 🦈 1 more time. K5

Row 26: Repeat row 20.

Row 27: Knit across.

Row 28: As row 8. πŸ™ Repeat πŸ™ to πŸ™ (row 9 to row 28 make the pattern.)

Repeat rows 9 -17 once.

Knit across 5 rows.

Cast off

Like all of my patterns, the viewing of this patterns allows for you to give away or sell any of the physical items you make from this pattern. You are not allowed to claim this pattern as your own, give it away, sell it or redistribute it in ANY form without my WRITTEN consent.

And to those who think it doesn’t matter… meh. You may be right but it kinda makes you look like a douche. Just sayin’.


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How to Knit Slippers Like Granny Made

Knitted Slippers Just Like Granny Made Knitting Pattern

I can’t believe I originally wrote this pattern 9 years ago. 🀯 But when something works and people like it, you might as well keep it around. Even after all these years, these slippers still are one of my favourite things to knit.

This pattern includes instructions to make slippers that will fit adults from a woman’s size 7-12 or a man’s 6-11. Men’s size 12 -13 are given separately following the general pattern. I sometimes get requests for larger slipper sizes and this was my response to that.


If you are loving this and all my other free patterns, please help out financially by visiting my Help Support My Work Page. If you can’t give cash, and I get that not everyone can, please do your part and share this where you can. Every share on social media helps promote my work and expose it to even more people. I’ve made it super easy for everyone to do that. By clicking those links up there ☝🏼 you can share it nearly everywhere.

Not a fan of reading knitting patterns online or would prefer to print this off? I also have the PDF version of this pattern available as a free download from my site too. Click either of these links to get the ad free download for a small fee – How to Knit Slippers Just Like Granny Made or in my Etsy shop.


Things you need:

Click on any of the links below to get everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.

200 grams of worsted weight yarn

Set of 2 size 5 mm ( US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Set of 4 size 5 mm (US size 8) double pointed needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew seams and work in the ends.


Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Slippers are given for a woman’s size 7-8 (9-10, 11-12) or man’s sizes 6-7 (8-9, 10-11). The foot lengths of a man’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a woman’s size 7-8 and so on.

Knitted Slipper Just Like Granny Made

Cast on 40 sts

Row 1: P13 K1 P12 K1 P13

Row 2: K13 P1 K12 P1 K13

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 26 (30, 34) more times.

Shape toe:

Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K1 P12 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times.

Next Row: With wrong side facing you (K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K12 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.

Repeat these 2 rows for 18 (20, 22) more rows. 20 (22, 24) rows ribbed.

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. P2tog 5 times P1. K2tog 7 times P1. 21 stitches remaining.

Next Row: P8 K6 P7

Next Row: K2tog 3 times. P2 tog 3 times. K2tog 4 times K1. 11 stitches.

Next Row: P5 K3 P3.

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.

Form back flap of heel:

With right side of work facing you, draw up 14 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper.

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Purl across.

Row 3: K2tog K10 K2tog. 12 stitches

Row 4: Purl across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: P2tog P8 P2tog. 10 stitches.

Row 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Purl across.

Row 9: K2tog K6 K2tog. 8 stitches

Row 10: Purl across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: P2tog P4 P2tog. 6 stitches.

Row 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Purl across.

Row 15: K2tog K2 K2tog. 4 stitches

Row 16: Purl across.

Row 17: Knit across.

Row 18: P2tog twice. 2 stitches.

Row 19: Knit across.

Bind off


Create cuff:

With your double pointed needles and with the right side of your slipper facing you pick up 36 (38, 40) stitches around the stockinette stitch portion of slipper. Be sure to include 2 stitches bound off for the heel flap. Divide evenly on 3 of the double pointed needles.

Row 1 – 6: *(K1 P1) Repeat 17 (18, 19) more times.

Row 7 – 10: Knit

Bind off loosely. If too tight it will be hard to get the slipper on.

Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.

My stuff on Etsy:

Instructions for mens size 12 – 13

Yarn, gauge and needles remain the same

Cast on 42

Row 1: P13 K1 P14 K1 P13

Row 2: K13 P1 K124P1 K13

Repeat rows 1 and 2 for 38 more times.

Shape toe:

Next Row: With right side of work facing you P1 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 5 more times K1 P14 *(K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times.


Next Row: With wrong side facing you (K1 P1) Repeat from * 6 more times K14 *(P1 K1) Repeat from * 6 more times.


Repeat these 2 rows for 24 more rows. 26 rows of ribbed.

Next Row: With right side facing K2tog 7 times. P2tog 6 times P1. K2tog 7 times P1. 22 stitches remaining.

Next Row: P8 K7 P7

Next Row: K2tog 3 times. P2 tog 4 times. K2tog 4 times. 11 stitches.

Next Row: P4 K3 P4.

Last Row: Draw yarn through loops and pull together to form toe. Sew seam up to start of ribbed stitches.

Form back flap of heel:

With right side of work facing you, draw up 16 stitches between the fold lines that mark the sole of the slipper.

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: Purl across.

Row 3: K2tog K12 K2tog. 14 stitches

Row 4: Purl across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: P2tog P10 P2tog. 12 stitches

Row 7: Knit across.

Row 8: Purl across.

Row 9: K2tog K8 K2tog. 10 stitches.

Row 10: Purl across.

Row 11: Knit across.

Row 12: P2tog P6 P2tog. 8 stitches

Row 13: Knit across.

Row 14: Purl across.

Row 15: K2tog K4 K2tog. 6 stitches.

Row 16: Purl across.

Row 17: Knit across.

Row 18: P2tog P2 P2tog. 4 stitches

Row 19: Knit across.

Row 20: Purl across.

Row 21: K2tog twice. 2 stitches.

Row 22: Purl across.

Row 23: Knit across.

Bind off

Create cuff:

With your double pointed needles and with the right side of your slipper facing you pick up 44 stitches around the stockinette stitch portion of slipper. Be sure to include 2 stitches bound off for the heel flap. Divide evenly on 3 of the double pointed needles.

Row 1 – 8: *(K1 P1) Repeat 21 more times.

Row 9 – 14: Knit

Bind off loosely. If too tight it will be hard to get the slipper over the wearer’s heel.

Sew up seems for heel flap. Work in ends. Make another to match.


Hints and Tips:

As some final hints, don’t feel that the cuff needs to be the same colour as the slipper itself. A nice change is to make the cuff in a complimentary colour, especially if you have used variegated yarn. You can also use this pattern to use up some of your left over wool by making the toe (ribbed section) a different colour also.

This is also a great pattern to use if you have a variegated or any other colour changing yarn. Because there isn’t any pattern created by the stitches, it allows to show off the colours really well.

Like all of my patterns you have my permission to sell and/or give away the slippers that you make using this pattern. You are NOT permitted to reprint this pattern in any form unless you have obtained my written permission to do so. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions on my contact page. You can also use the comment section below.

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Bars and Stripes Knitted Dishcloth Pattern

Bars and Stripes Knitted Dishcloth Pattern

I only use hand knit dishcloths and have for years. I can’t express the superiority of these things! Regardless of the style, and I have designed a few, they last forever, have fabulous scrubbing power and double as a great heat protector when setting a hot pan on the counter or grabbing something out of the oven. They wash well and it’s nice to have something on hand that reminds you of how truly crafty you are 😜


Not only are these great to have around, but this is another great project for anyone learning how to knit. This knitting pattern uses very basic stitches and I’ve included links to videos demonstrating how to do every stitch.


If you’re learning how to knit, this is a great project to learn on. Even if it doesn’t turn out perfectly, you still have a useable item. And if you do know how to knit already, it’s a great way to use up the left overs from your stash. And who couldn’t use an extra dishcloth or two anyways.

If you are loving this and all the other free knitting patterns on this site, please consider a small donation to help cover the costs of hosting through the Help Support My Work page. If you can’t afford to help out financially, which I’m totally cool with btw, please consider sharing this pattern with everyone you think may be interested. I’ve included these handy dandy share buttons below. You can help promote this site with a few simple clicks!


This pattern is now available for download for a small fee/donations. I’m really doing this as a test to see if people really will download a pattern verses read it online. You can download the ad free version here – Bars and Stripes Knitted Dishcloth or you can download it from my Etsy shop here – Bars and Stripes on Etsy.

Things you will need:


Let’s get knitting:

Cast on 39 sts.

Row 1 – 6: Knit across

πŸ¦„ 🧸 Row 7: K4 P1 *(K4 P1)* Repeat from * to * 5 times more. K4

Row 8: K5 *(P4 K1)* Repeat from * to * 5 times more. K4 🧸

Repeat from 🧸 to 🧸 2 more times.

Next row: Repeat row 7

Next row: Knit across πŸ¦„

Repeat from πŸ¦„ to πŸ¦„ 5 more times.

Knit across the next 4 rows.

Cast off.


Hints and Tips:

I’ve made the pattern so it is a square as I could get it. If you feel it’s too long (or short) add or take away πŸ¦„ to πŸ¦„ repeats. It’s a washcloth, not rocket science. The final piece can be however you like it.

I know some people (Me. I’m some people) like things to have the same motif on both sides. This isn’t one of those things. The backside isn’t terrible, just different from the front. It’s either going to offend you to the core of your being or you won’t give a f¡€k. It’s your call.

If you hold the cast on end to the back of your work and catch the yarn every other stitch, you’ll have one less end to sew in. I probably should make a video showing it. I hate sewing in ends and this is a great technique to learn.

If you have any questions or comments you can send me an email through my contact page. The comment section at the bottom of this pattern is also great to post your questions. I answer them ASAP.

This pattern grants you the pleasure and profit of selling or giving away anything that you make. It does NOT give you permission to publish, print or distribute it in any format. You are NOT permitted to claim this pattern as your own. Please respect mine, and other author’s rights. You’re a huge jerky jerk if you do this and I’m certain puppy dogs don’t like you because you’re such a horrible person. How can you live with yourself????

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Knit Two Styles of Slippers with One Pattern

Two slippers with one pattern

These two slipper styles are actually the same knitting pattern but showcase one side of the work or the other. They are easily made with the same basic knitting stitches and if you can make one style, you can make the other! The pattern is for slippers from a men’s size 6 to 13 and for a women’s 6 to 13. I’ve also provided direct links in the pattern to my YouTube videos demonstrating the knitting stitches required if you need a little help.

If you have never picked up stitches or knitted in the round, this is a great pattern to learn. I made a YouTube video showing how to do this for another pattern (you can read that pattern here – How to Knit Adult Booties), but the technique is similar. You can watch the video snippet right here – Picking up Stitches to Make the Heel the Cuff. The stitch pattern used this video is different, but would still look ok when done the final project.


If you’re loving the free patterns on this site, please consider a small donation to help with the hosting costs of the site. You can learn more about how you can help by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to help financially, which is totally ok btw, please share this pattern with anyone you think may like it. You can use these handy links πŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌπŸ‘‡πŸΌ to share on social media or send it as an email to your friends and family.


And if you’re wanting to get off the internet and would prefer to have this on your phone, tablet or computer, you can download this pattern from my website here – Two Slipper Styles with One Pattern. The download is for a PDF that you can print if you so desire.

Things you will need:

Click any of the links below to have everything you need to make these slippers sent right to your door.

200 grams of worsted weight yarn

Set of 2 size 5 mm ( US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Set of 4 size 5 (US size 8) double pointed knitting needles or whatever size needed to obtain the correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew up seams and work in ends.


Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″
9 stitches stockinette = 2″
Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Cast on 42 sts.

Row 1: P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K12 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3 K1 P3

Row 2: K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 P12 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3 P1 K3

Repeat these two rows until slippers measures as shown in the chart below. End with row 2.

Shoe SizeLength
Men’s 6 – 78″ (20 cm)
Men’s 8 – 98 Β½” (21 cm)
Men’s 10 – 119″ (22.5 cm)
Men’s 12 – 139 Β½” (24 cm)
Women’s 6 – 77 Β½” (18 cm)
Women’s 8 – 98″ (20 cm)
Women’s 10 – 118 Β½” (21 cm)
Women’s 12 – 139″ (22.5 cm)


End toe Slipper β€œA”
Row 1: *(P2tog K2tog) repeat from * 3 times more.  K2tog twice K1 K2tog 3 times *(P2tog K2tog) repeat from * 2 times P2tog P1

Row 2: K2 *(P1 K1) repeat from * two more times. P7 *(K1 P1) repeat from * two more ties. K1
Row 3: K2tog 11 times

Row 4: P11

Draw yarn through loops and pull tight.

End toe Slipper β€œB”
Row 1: K1 (K2tog) 7 times (P2tog) 6 times. K1 (K2tog) 7 times

Row 2: P8 K6 P8

Row 3: (K2tog) 4 times (P2tog) 3 times (K2tog) 4 times

Row 4: P4 K3 P4

Draw yarn through loops and pull tight.


Heel and cuff Slipper β€œA”
With right side facing pick up 14 stitches


Row 1: Purl across


Row 2: Knit across


Repeat the two rows one more time

Row 5: P2tog P10 P2 tog


Row 6: K12


Row 7: P12


Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog


Row 9: P10


Row 10: K10


Row 11: P2tog P6 P2 tog


Row 12: K8


Row 13: P8


Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog


Row 15: P6


Row 16: K6

Row 17: P2tog P2 P2tog


Row 18: K4

Start cuff:
With double pointed needles, pick up 18 sts over half of one side, 18 sts on the other, and transfer the 4 stitches created when making the heel. Pick up the stitches over the first half of the slipper and leave the rest for the toe. Fold the sides of the slipper together to give an approximate of where to start picking up stitches on the other side of the slipper. You can also count back 18 stitches along the edge for a starting point.

Row 1: P3 K1 repeat 9 more times for total of 40 sts.


Repeat for 8 rows total. 

Bind off loosely.

Sew seams and work in ends of the yarn.


Heel and cuff Slipper β€œB”
With right side facing pick up 14 stitches. 


Row 1: Knit across


Row 2: Purl across


Repeat the two rows one more time

Row 5: K2tog K10 K2 tog


Row 6: P12


Row 7: K12


Row 8: P2tog P8 P2tog


Row 9: K10


Row 10: P10


Row 11: K2tog K6 K2 tog


Row 12: P8


Row 13: K8


Row 14: P2tog P4 P2tog


Row 15: K6


Row 16: P6

Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog


Row 18: P4

Start cuff:
With double pointed needles, pick up 18 sts over half of one side, 18 sts on the other, and transfer the 4 stitches created when making the heel. Pick up the stitches over the first half of the slipper and leave the rest for the toe. Fold the sides of the slipper together to give an approximate of where to start picking up stitches on the other side of the slipper. You can also count back 18 stitches along the edge for a starting point.

Row 1: K3 P1 repeat 9 more times for total of 40 sts.


Repeat for 8 rows total. 

Bind off loosely.

Sew seams and work in ends of the yarn.


Extra hints and tips:

When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. A lighter colour with flecks also works quite well. You can use darker or variegated yarn, but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.

The β€œright side” of the slipper is the side you’ve chosen to be on the outside. For Slipper β€œA” it is the side that has a more striped appearance. Slipper β€œB” looks more ribbed. No one said that the heel and cuff had to match anyways, so you may want to switch them up!

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

P2tog – purl 2 together

sts – stitches

If you have any questions or comments you’d rather keep private, you can send me an email through my contact page.

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Adult & Child Knitted Slippers…With BOWS!!

Bow Slippers Knitting Pattern

Hand knit slippers are wonderful, but it’s always nice to be able to make a fancier pair, especially if you are making them as a gift. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for girls from size 9 up to a woman’s size 12. You can keep scrolling or click here to read the child pattern.

The stitches used to make the slippers are very basic and this pattern includes detailed instructions and step by step photos that show how to create the bows. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.


If you are just learning how to knit or need to brush up on your knitting skills, I’ve also included links in the pattern to videos that show you how to do all the basic stitches including: casting onknit stitchpurlbind offknit 2 togetherdraw through, and how to pick up stitches to make the heel. 


If you are enjoying the free patterns, please consider helping out financially by going to my page Help Support My Work. If you’re not in the position to make a small donation, please help me out by sharing this pattern with anyone you think may enjoy it. I’ve include these handy buttons πŸ‘†πŸΌ to make it super easy. All you have to do is click!

Not a fan of reading things online or would like to print this pattern? You can download the ad free PDF version of this pattern for a small here – Easy to Knit Bow Slippers or from my Etsy Shop.

Somehow found yourself on this page and absolutely LOVE these but don’t know or have the time to knit yourself a pair. I sell them right here too! Here’s the link to this shameless plug – Custom Order Bow Slippers

Things you will need:

Having a hard time knowing what you need? Click any of the links below to have everything sent right to your door.

200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).

Size 5 mm (US size 8) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew seams and work in the ends


Gauge: 

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Woman’s size 6 – 12

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

Cast on 44

Row 1: K5 P1 K3 P1 K24 P1 K3 P1 K5

Row 2: K6 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K6

Row 3: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made).

Purl the next stitch*

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K24 Repeat from * to * K5.

(Row 3 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). Purl the next stitch* K24 Repeat from * to * K5.

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Repeat row 3.

Row 8: Repeat row 2. The bow portion will look like this.

 How to knit a bow

Row 9: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up.

How to knit a bow

Knit the next stitch.

How to knit a bow

Pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed).

How to knit a bow

How to knit a bow

K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.

(Row 9 rewritten without photos: K5 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K5.

The bow portion will look like this.

How to knit a bow

Row 10: Repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3 to 10 3(3, 4, 4) more times.

Next row: K2tog K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to *K3 K2tog. (42 sts)

Next row: K5 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K5.

Next row: K2tog K2 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K2 K2tog. (40 sts)

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. (40 sts)

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

πŸ„ Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K24 Repeat from * to * K3. 

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4.

Next row: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K24. Repeat from * to * K3.

Next row: K4 P3 K6 P1 K12 P1 K6 P3 K4. πŸ„

Repeat from πŸ„ to πŸ„ 1(1, 2, 2) times more.


Form Toe:

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K13 P1 K12 P1 K13.

Repeat these two rows 0 (1, 0, 3) times more.

Next row: K2tog K36 K2tog. (38 sts)

Next row: K12 P1 K12 P1 K12.

Next row: K2tog K34 K2tog. (36 sts)

Next row: K11 P1 K12 P1 K11.

Next row: K2tog across. (18 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog across (9 sts).

Next row: Knit across.

Break yarn and draw yarn through stitches to gather together to finish the toe.

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Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches. 

Row 1 – 4 : Knit across.

Row 5: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)

Row 6 -7 Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 9 – 10: Knit across.

Row 11: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 12 – 13: Knit across.

Row 14: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 15 – 16: Knit across.

Row 17: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 18: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 19 – 20: Knit across.

Bind off

Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams, work in the ends and enjoy!


Child Slippers size 9 – 3

Knitting pattern for kids - Slippers

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 9-10 (11-12, 13-1, 2-3)

Cast on 34

Row 1: K3 P1 K3 P1 K18 P1 K3 P1 K3

Row 2: K4 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K4

Row 3: K3 *P1 hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (Strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K3 

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: Repeat row 3.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: Repeat row 3.

Row 8: Repeat row 2.

Row 9: K3 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K3.

Row 10: Repeat row 2.

Repeat rows 3 to 10 1(1, 2, 2) more times.

Next row: K2tog K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to *K1 K2tog. (32 sts)

Next row: K3 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K3.

Next row: K2tog *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K2tog. (30 sts)

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

πŸ” Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 Hold the yarn in front of your work. Pass the next 3 stitches over to the other needle (strand made). P1* K18 Repeat from * to * K1. 

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2.

Next row: K1 *P1 K1 Pick up the three strands from the bottom up. Knit the next stitch and pull the loop down through the 3 strands (Bow completed). K1 P1* K18. Repeat from * to * K1.

Next row: K2 P3 K4 P1 K10 P1 K4 P3 K2. πŸ”

Repeat from  πŸ” to πŸ” 0 (0, 1, 1) times more.

Form Toe:

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K9 P1 K10 P1 K9.

Repeat these two rows 0 (3, 0, 2) times more.

Next row: K2tog K26 K2tog. (28 sts)

Next row: K8 P1 K10 P1 K8.

Next row: K2tog K24 K2tog. (26 sts)

Next row: K7 P1 K10 P1 K7.

Next row: K2tog across. (13 sts)

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog 3 times K1 K2tog 3 times (7 sts).

Next row: Knit across.

Break yarn and draw yarn through stitches to gather together to finish the toe.

Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.

Row 1 – 2 : Knit across.

Row 3: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 4 – 5: Knit across.

Row 6: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 7 – 8: Knit across.

Row 9: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 10 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 13 – 14: Knit across.

Row 15: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 16: Knit across.

Bind off.

Make another slipper to match. Sew up seams and work in ends.


Hints and tips:

When creating the strands, pull apart the 3 stitches passed over to the other needle. This allows for some additional slack in the strand across the 3 unworked stitches.

Sometimes the bows will appear lopsided. If you put your knitting needle under the 3 strands and pull gently on one side and then the other, you can easily even them out.

This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurments such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions through my contact page.

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Easy to Knit Slippers – Great Beginner Knitting Pattern

Easy to Knit Slippers Pattern

This is a great knitting pattern for beginners because it only uses basic stitches that are very easy master. I’ve included links in the pattern to videos on YouTube that show you how to preform each stitch, making this a great pattern to teach yourself how to knit.

This is also a great project for experienced knitters because these slippers are very quick and easy to make. The pattern enables you to make a variety of sizes, from a woman’s size 6 up to a man’s size 14. 


If you are loving the free patterns, please feel free to share this pattern with anyone and everyone you think may like it. You can use any of the buttons below to share it with whatever social media accounts you have.


If you’d like to do just more than share to keep this website up and running, you can also make a donation to help with hosting costs. Go to this page – Help Support My Work to learn how you can help.

If you’d rather have the ad free downloadable version of this pattern for a small fee, you can find it here – Easy to Knit Slippers or in my Etsy shop.

Things you will need:

Having a hard time finding what you need? Click any of the links below to have exactly what you require to finish these slippers mailed right to your door.

200 grams of worsted weight yarn (I find Red Heart wears well and easy to maintain).

Set of size 5 ( US size 8) knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Darning needle to sew up the seams and work in the ends.


Gauge:

12 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Slippers are given for a woman’s size 6-7 (8-9, 10-11, 12-13, 14-15)
or man’s sizes 5-6 (7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-14). The foot lengths of a woman’s size 6-7 are about the same as that of a man’s size 5-6 and so on.

Cast on 40 (48, 48, 48, 48)

Row 1: *K2 P2* Repeat from * to* 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2 P12 Repeat from * to* 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times K2.

Row 2: *P2 K2* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. P2 K12 Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times P2.

Row 3: Repeat row 1.

Row 4: Knit across.

Repeat rows 1 through 4 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times more.


Shape toe: 

Next row: Repeat row 1.

Next row: Repeat row 2.

Next row: *K2tog P2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. K2tog. (P2tog) Repeat 5 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K2tog. [20 (24, 24, 24, 24) sts remain.]

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K1 *K2tog* Repeat from * to * 2 (3, 3, 3, 3) times more. (P2tog) Repeat 2 times more. Repeat from * to * 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) times. K1. [11 (13, 13, 13, 13) sts remain.]

Next row: P4 (P5, P5, P5, P5) K3 P4 (P5, P5, P5, P5).

Cut the yarn leaving approximately 12” to sew up toe seam.  Draw yarn through stitches and pull tight to form toe. Bring edges together and sew half of the stitches together to form toe taking care to match the stitches together to form an invisible seam. Make another slipper to match.

To Make Heel Flap:

***For woman’s size 6-7 and man’s size 5-6 ONLY!***

With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 12 stitches along the sole edge.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Row 3: Knit

Row 4: Purl

Row 5: Knit

Row 6: P2tog P8 P2tog (10 sts)

Row 7: Knit

Row 8: Purl

Row 9: K2tog K6 K2tog (8 sts)

Row 10: Purl

Row11: Knit

Row 12: P2tog P4 P2tog (6 sts)

Row 13: Knit

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: K2tog K2 K2tog (4 sts)

Row 16: Purl

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: P1 P2tog P1 (3 sts)

Row 19: Knit

Row 20: Bind off.

For all remaining slipper sizes:

With right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 12 stitches along the sole edge.

Row 1: Knit

Row 2: Purl

Repeat rows 1 – 2 3 times more

Row 9: Knit

Row 10: P2tog P8 P2tog (10 sts)

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: Purl

Row 13: K2tog K6 K2tog (8 sts)

Row 14: Purl

Row 15: Knit

Row 16: P2tog P4 P2tog (6 sts)

Row 17: Knit

Row 18: Purl

Row 19: K2tog K2 K2tog (4 sts)

Row 20: Purl

Row 21: Knit

Row 22: P1 P2tog P1 (3 sts)

Row 23: Knit

Row 24: Bind off.

Make a heal flap for the other slipper. Sew up the seams of heal flap and work in all the yarn ends.


Extra Tips

The pattern is written as simply as possible, but here are a few extra tips that may help you.

Knit what is between the * * once. Then knit whatever is between the * * again however many times more the pattern instructs you to.

When the pattern say repeat between * * however many times, knit the portion as many times as it instructs. Simply put, the slippers always have an equal number of knitted β€œridges” and purled β€œvalleys” on each side of the sole. There are 4 β€œridges” and 3 β€œvalleys” on the smallest size and 5 β€œridges” and 4 β€œvalleys” on all the other sizes.

When selecting your yarn, I recommend that you choose a lighter shade of a solid colour. You can use darker or variegated yarn but the texture of the pattern won’t be as visible.

Happy knitting!

If you have any questions or comments you can reach me through my contact page.

This pattern enables you to sell or give away anything you may make with it. It does NOT allow you to redistribute, sell, give away or copy the pattern in any way without WRITTEN permission.

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Cable Knit Slippers for Children and Adults

cable knit slippers

Learn to knit comfy, cozy cabled slippers. This pattern shows you how to make slippers for children from a small size 3 to large 3, and a woman’s and man’s size 4 to 12. This makes it a great project for a knitter with some experience but wanting to make something that is a little more challenging.


Even if you have never knit a cable before, have no fear! This pattern includes detailed instructions and numerous photos on how to create the cable. And if you need to brush up on some of the more basic stitches, you can learn how to knit with my YouTube videos.

Not wanting to be online all the time? You can also download the ad free version of this pattern, for a small fee, here – How to Knit Cable Slippers and in my Etsy shop.


If you are enjoying the free knitting patterns, don’t forget to learn more about how you can Help Support My Work. Using those share buttons right up there πŸ‘†πŸΌ is a great way to start! Letting others know about this pattern is good for everyone.

Things you will need:

If you are having a difficult time locating the supplies you need to make these slippers, click any link below to have it mail right to your door.

200 gr of worsted weight yarn (usually this is less but better to have too much).

Size 4.5 (US size 7) single pointed knitting needles or whatever size to obtain correct gauge.

Cable knitting needle

Darning needle to sew the seams and work in the ends.


Gauge: 

14 rows stockinette = 2″

9 stitches stockinette = 2″

Be sure to check your gauge to obtain correct sizing!

Children’s Sizes 3 – 3

Cable Knit Slippers

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such 3-4 (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12, 13-1, 2-3)

Cast on 29 (29, 31, 32, 34, 35, 37)

Row 1: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 K3 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K3 P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Row 2: K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5) P3 K3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5) P1 K7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) P1 K3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5) P3 K4 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5)

Row 3: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Row 4: Repeat row 2.

Row 5: K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4)

Repeat rows 2–5 3 (4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 8) times more.

Next row: Repeat row 2.

Shape Toe

Next row: K2tog once (once, once, once, twice, twice, twice) K 1 (1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0) P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17,19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K 1 (1, 1, 1, 0, 0, 0) K2tog once (once, once, once, twice, twice, twice)  Click here for an explanation.

🌺 Next row (and all remaining even rows): K3 P3 K3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5) P1 K7 (7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) P1 K3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 4, 5) P3 K3 

Next row: K2 P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌺 (All rows when wrong side of the work is facing you.)

🐿 Next row: K2 P1 C1F K1 P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 C1F K1 P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒΊ

Next row: K2 P1 K1 C1B P1 K13 (13, 15, 16, 16, 17, 19) P1 K1 C1B P1 K2

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒΊ 🐿

Repeat from 🐿 to 🐿 3 (3,3,3,4,4,4) times more.

End Toe

Next row: K2tog P1 SL1 K2tog PSSO P1 K1 K2tog 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9) times P1 SL1 K2tog PSSO P1 K2tog.

Next row: Knit

Next row: K 1 (1, 0, 1, 1, 1, 0) K2tog to the end of the row.

Next row: Knit

Pull yarn through.


Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 10 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.

Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.

Row 4: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 5 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 9 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.

Row 16: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 17 – 19: Knit across.

Bind off.

When shaping the toe, once completed the row, you should have 2 knit stitches before the purl of the cable at the beginning of the row and 2 stitches after the last purl after the cable at the end of the row regardless of the size. Depending on the size you either knit 2 stitches together twice or knit two stitches together once and knit the one remaining stitch. Regardless of size this gives the two stitches.

More of my stuff on Etsy:

Adult Sizes: 

Cable Knit Slippers

Numbers in parenthesis are written for sizes as such:

Women’s 4-5 (6-7, 8-9, 10-11, 12) 

Men’s 4 (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12)

A woman’s size 6-7 is the same as a man’s size 5-6. A woman’s size 8-9 is the same as a man’s size 7-8. etc.

Cast on 40 (44, 46, 48, 50)

Row 1: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 2: K4 (5, 5, 6, 6) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K4 (5, 5, 6, 6) 

πŸ¦‹ Row 3: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 4: Repeat row 2. 

Row 5: Repeat row 1.

Row 6: Repeat row 2.

Row 7: K3 (4, 4, 5, 5) P1 K2 C2B P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K2 C2B P1 K3 (4, 4, 5, 5)

Row 8: Repeat row 2.

Row 9: Repeat row 1.

Row 10: Repeat row 2. πŸ¦‹

Repeat from πŸ¦‹ to πŸ¦‹ 3 (3, 4, 4, 4) times more.

Shape Toe:

Next row: K2tog 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) times K1 (2, 2, 1, 1) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 1, 1) K2tog 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) times. 38 (42, 44, 44, 46) sts.

Next row: K3 (4, 4, 4, 4) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K3 (4, 4, 4, 4) 

Next row: K2tog K 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K 0 (1, 1, 1, 1) K2tog. 36 (40, 42, 42, 44) sts. 

🌝 Next row: K2 (3, 3, 3, 3) P6 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P1 K10 (10, 12, 12, 12) P1 K4 (5, 5, 5, 6) P6 K2 (3, 3, 3, 3) 

πŸ’– Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 K2 C2B P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K2 C2B P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌝

⭐️ Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 K6 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 K6 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌝

πŸ€ Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: Repeat row marked with β­οΈ

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸ’–

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: Repeat row marked with ⭐️

Next row: Repeat row marked with 🌝 πŸ€

Repeat from πŸ€ to πŸ€ 0(1, 1, 2, 3) times more.

End Toe:

Next row: K1 (2, 2, 2, 2) P1 C2F K2 P1 K18 (20, 22, 22, 24) P1 C2F K2 P1 K1 (2, 2, 2, 2)

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: Repeat row marked with β­οΈ

Next row: Repeat row marked with πŸŒ

Next row: K2tog across.

Next row: Knit across.

Next row: K2tog 9 (10, 10, 10, 11) times.

Knit the last stitch for women’s sizes 8-9 and 10-11 and the men’s sizes 7-8 and 9-10 only.

Next row: Knit across.

Pull yarn through.


Form Heel:

With the right side of the slipper facing you, pick up 14 sts along the back of the sole between the purl stitches.

Row 1 – 3 : Knit across.

Row 4: K2tog K10 K2tog. (12 sts)

Row 5 – 7: Knit across.

Row 8: K2tog K8 K2tog. (10 sts)

Row 9 – 11: Knit across.

Row 12: K2tog K6 K2tog. (8 sts)

Row 13 – 15 : Knit across.

Row 16: K2tog K4 K2tog. (6 sts)

Row 17 – 19 : Knit across.

Row 20: K2tog K2 K2tog. (4 sts)

Row 21 – 23 : Knit across.

Row 24: K1 K2tog K1. (3 sts)

Row 25 – 27: Knit across.

Bind off.

Hints and tips:

This pattern doesn’t contain a child’s size 4-5. Based on the foot measurements I used to develop the pattern there isn’t a need. A woman’s size 5 measures 8 11/16 inches long, while a girl’s size 3 measures 8 9/16 inches long. Knitting is very forgiving with small differences in measurements such as this. But when in doubt, I recommend making the larger size.

The children’s slipper is made with a smaller cable than the adult sizes. It uses C1F and C1B to allow for the smaller foot size.

C1F (Cable 1 forward) is done the same way as the C2F, but instead of knitting and pulling forward 2 stitches, only knit and pull one stitch forward.

C1B – (Cable 1 backward) is done the same way as the C2B, but instead of knitting and pulling of 2 stitches to the back of your work, only knit and pull one stitch back.


How to Make the Cable:

C2F β€“ Cable 2 Forward. 

You can also watch this helpful video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/PrCjIC3fhxk


With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle

Cable 2 forward knitting

Pull the stitches towards the front of your work.

Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the next 2 stitches.

Cable 2 forward knitting

Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the stitches from the cable needle.

Cable 2 forward knitting

Cable 2 forward knitting

Knit the last 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2).

Cable 2 forward knitting

C2B β€“ Cable 2 backward. 

You can also watch how to do this with my helpful video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/u8GrJIJseKQ

Knit the first 2 stitches of the cable (accounted for in the pattern with the K2.)

Cable 2 back knitting

With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle.

Cable 2 back knitting

Pull the stitches towards the back of your work.

Cable 2 back knitting

Knit the next 2 stitches.

Knit the stitches from the cable needle.

Cable 2 back knitting

Cable 2 back knitting

Cabling described without photos:

C2F β€“ Cable 2 forward

With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

C2B β€“ Cable 2 backward

With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions here.

Abbreviations:

K – Knit

P – Purl

K2tog – knit 2 together

sts – stitches

C1F – Cable 1 forward (this is done the same way as the C2F, but instead of knitting and pulling forward 2 stitches, only knit and pull one stitch forward). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the front of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle. 

C1B – Cable 1 backward (this is done the same way as the C2B, but instead of knitting and pulling of 2 stitches to the back of your work, only knit and pull one stitch back). With your cable needle, slip 1 stitch off the needle and pull the stitch towards the back of your work. Knit the next stitch. Knit the stitch from the cable needle.

C2F – Cable 2 forward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the front of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle. 

C2B – Cable 2 backward. With your cable needle, slip 2 stitches off the needle and pull the stitches towards the back of your work. Knit the next 2 stitches. Knit the 2 stitches from the cable needle.

SL 1 – Slip 1 stitch off knit ways

PSSO – Pass the slipped stitch over

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questions at kweenbee_crafts@hotmail.ca or through my contact form.

Copyright 2020

Janis Frank

This pattern gives you permission to sell or give away anything that you make with this pattern. It does NOT give you permission to give away, reproduce in any form or sell this pattern.


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How to Crochet Slippers

How to Crochet Slippers

There is a certain charm to handmade slippers. Whether they be knitted or crocheted, it is always nice to be able to give someone a handmade gift, even if that gift is for yourself! Made with basic crochet stitches, you can make these very cute and practical slippers for just about anyone. With this pattern you can make slippers from a child’s size 11 to 4, a women’s size 5 to12 and a men’s size 6 to 11). This pattern includes instructions detailing how to make the adorable flower, though the more manly types may not appreciate the extra splash of colour. 

How to crochet slippers

If you would prefer to have a permanent copy of this pattern on your smartphone, tablet or computer, you can also download it directly from my website here: Crocheted Ribbed Slippers. A new window will open when you click the link so you won’t lose this page.

And if you are enjoying the free videos and patterns, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and help me more than you know πŸ˜‰. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.


Gauge in sc

9 sts = 5 cm

9 rows = 5 cm

Things You Need:

220 gr of any colour worsted weight yarn

Size 4.25 crochet hook (or whatever size you need to obtain the correct gauge)

Darning needle (to sew seams and work in the ends)

The first set of brackets are are written for children’s sizes (11-12, 1-2, 3-4). The second set of brackets are women’s sizes (5-6, 7-8, 9-10, 11-12) and men’s (*-*, 6-7, 8-9, 10-11). Men’s size 6-7 are the same as a women’s 7-8. A men’s 8-9 the same as a woman’s size 9-10. A men’s 10-11 the same as a woman’s size 11-12. There is no men’s size 4-5 given.

How to Crochet Slippers

Ch (22, 26, 30) (30, 32, 32, 36). Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. Ch 1, turn.

(21, 25, 29 sts) (29, 31, 31, 35 sts)

Row 2: Sc in back loops of next (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts. Hdc in next (9, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11) sts. Sc in back loops of next (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sts. Ch 1, turn. (The sc in the back loops forms the ribbed pattern.)

Row 3: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (9, 9, 9) (9, 11, 11, 11) hdc. (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (6.5, 7.5, 8.5) (8.5, 9, 9.5, 11) cm from the edge. (21, 25, 29 sts) (29, 31, 31, 35 sts)

Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, 3 hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (23, 27, 31 sts) (31, 33, 33, 37 sts)

Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (11, 11, 11) (11, 13, 13, 13) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (9, 10, 11) (11, 12, 13, 14) cm from the edge.

Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (3, 3, 3) (3, 5, 5, 5) hdc, inc 1 hdc in next hdc, (3, 3, 3) (3, 4, 4, 4) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25, 29, 33 sts) (33, 35, 35, 39 sts)

Next row: (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (6, 8, 10)(10, 10, 10, 12sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (11, 13, 14)(14, 15, 16, 17) cm from the edge.

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Create the Top of the Slipper

Next row: Ch (6, 6, 6)(6, 8, 8, 8), turn. (You should have the ch 1 from your previous row already completed.) Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. (6, 8, 10)(10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (6, 8, 10) (10, 10, 10, 12) sc in back loops. (31, 35, 39 sts)(39, 43, 43, 47 sts)

Next row: Ch (7, 7, 7) (7, 9, 9, 9), turn. Sc in 2nd chain from the hook and each remaining ch. 10 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (37, 41, 45 sts) (45, 51, 51, 55 sts)

Next row: (12, 14, 16) (16, 18, 18, 20) sc in back loops, (13, 13, 13) (13, 15, 15, 15) hdc, (12, 14, 16) (16, 18, 18, 20) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. Repeat this row until work measures (13.5, 15, 17) (17, 18, 19, 20.5) cm from edge.

Shape Toe:

Children’s Size (11-12) 

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 13 hdc, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (29 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (23 sts)

Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (21 sts)

Next row: 6 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 6 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), 1 hdc, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (11 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (12 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.

Children’s Size (1-2)

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (31 sts)

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), sc in back loop, 11 hdc, sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)

Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (23 sts)

Next row: 7 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 7 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), sc in back loops, 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, sc in back loops *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (15 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (16 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.

Children’s Size (3-4) Women’s Size (5-6)

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), sc in back loops, 13 hdc, sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (35 sts)

Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)

Next row: 11 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 11 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more), 2 sc in back loop, 11 hdc, 2 sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 2 times more). Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop in each st. (14 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.

Women’s Size (7-8, 9-10) Men’s Size (6-7, 8-9)

Next row: 18 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 11 hdc, 2 sctog, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (49 sts)

Next row: 18 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 18 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog* (repeat from * to * 5 times more) in back loops, 13 hdc, *2 sctog, sc* (repeat from * to * 5 times more) in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (37 sts)

Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (35 sts)

Next row: 12 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 12 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog* (repeat from * to * 3 times more) in back loops, 11 hdc, *2 sctog, sc* (repeat from * to * 3 times more) in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (27 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 7 hdc, 2 sctog, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (25 sts)

Next row: 8 sc in back loops, 9 hdc, 8 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sctog twice, 1 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (13 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (14 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.

Women’s Size (11-12) Men’s Size (10-11)

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 5 times more), 2 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 2 sc in back loops, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 5 times more). Ch 1, turn. (43 sts)

Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 15 hdc, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 11 hdc, 2 sctog, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (41 sts)

Next row: 14 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 14 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *Sc, 2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more), 2 sc in back loop, 13 hdc, 2 sc in back loop, *2 sctog, sc in back loops* (repeat from * to * 3 times more). Ch 1, turn. (33 sts)

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 13 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 2 sctog, 9 hdc, 2 sctog, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn. (31 sts)

Next row: 10 sc in back loops, 11 hdc, 10 sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Next row: *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more), 2 sctog twice, 3 hdc, 2 sctog twice, *2 sctog in back loops* (repeat from * to * 4 times more). Ch 1, turn. (17 sts)

Last row: Pull up a loop (scroll to bottom for photos) in each st. (18 loops on hook). Break yarn and draw yarn through each loop. Pull tight. Sew up toe seam.


Make the Heel

With the wrong side facing you and toe facing down.

Row 1: Sc in the each hdc of sole of slipper along starting edge (the loop left from the original chain stitches). Ch 1, turn. (9, 9, 9,)(9, 11, 11, 11 sts)

Row 2-4: Sc in back loops, Ch 1, turn.

Row 5: 2 sctog, (5, 5, 5,)(5, 7, 7, 7) sc, 2 sctog. Ch 1, turn. (7, 7, 7,)(7, 9, 9, 9 sts)

Row 6: (7, 7, 7,)(7, 9, 9, 9) sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Row 7: 2 sctog, (3, 3, 3,)(3, 5, 5, 5) sc, 2 sctog. Ch 1, turn. (5, 5, 5,)(5, 7, 7, 7 sts)

STOP HERE for children’s size 11-12 and 1-2. Skip to row 10.

Row 8: Sc in back loops. Ch 1, turn.

Row 9: 2 sctog, (1,)(1, 3, 3, 3 sts) sc, 2 sctog. Ch 1, turn. (3)(3, 5, 5, 5 sts)

Edging Around Slipper

Row 10: Sc in back loops. Do NOT make ch st or turn! Sc in each row and stitch around the edge of the slipper.

Row 11: Sc in each st around. Finish off.


Flower:

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (second ch counts as 1 sc) work 9 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Join with sl st to ch 1. (10 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3. Sl st in the same sc as join. *Sl st in next 2 sc. In same st as the 2nd sl st, ch 3, 1 dc, 1 trc, 1 dc, ch 3. Sl st in the same sc.* Repeat from * to * around. End with st st in the next sc. (5 flower petals).

Pull up a Loop

Pull up a loop in each stitch as if you were going to make a single crochet. Don’t work the loop. Leave the loop on the hook.

How to crochet slippers - end toe

Leave the loop on the hook. 12 sts will make 13 loops including the original ch 1.

How to crochet slippers

Draw the yarn through all the loops.

How to crochet slippers
How to crochet slippers
How to crochet slippers

Cut the yarn and pull the yarn through all the loops.

How to crochet slippers

Draw tight.

How to crochet slippers

Tips and Hints:

If your slipper is a little too big when you finish, one way to tighten it up a bit is to decrease some stitches when making the second round on the edging. Sc two stitches every 4 or 5 stitches will help.

To add a little more awesomeness to your slipper you can layer multiple flowers. Make each flower a different colour or you can change the size of your hook to make each flower smaller and stack them.

Work in your ends; don’t knot them off. Knots rub and can hurt the wearer’s foot.

Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

trc – treble crochet

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

2 sctog – single crochet 2 stitches together

If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment or send me your questionsΒ here.Β 

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Crochet a Skull and Crossbones Dishcloth

crochet skull and crossbones dishcloth

Because even pirates and rock stars need to do the dishes, I’ve created the coolest dishcloth known to man.  That’s right! A crocheted dishcloth that’s reversible with a skull and crossbones on it. Now who DOESN’T want that in their kitchen! Crazy people, that’s who.

crochet skull dishcloth

This dishcloth is very easy to make and a great project for beginners as it uses very basic crochet stitches that are easy to master. For the tougher points, like making the teeth (simply an elongated double crochet) and the edging, there are photos and a video to help you along. Or you can keep scrolling down the page to watch it here.

I also have made this pattern available for download here – Download the Skull and Crossbones pattern


Get the PDF version of the pattern from my website. A PDF file will work on any device (iPad, tablet, smartphone, computer, etc.) however you will need Adobe Reader to open and view the file. This is a free program which can be downloaded here – http://get.adobe.com/reader/

Liking the free patterns and would like to see more? Consider supporting my work with a small donation through PayPal or by making a purchase of any of my hand made items. You can do both by going to this page – Help Support My Work. Clicking and sharing this pattern, and my other patterns, on social media also helps me out immensely. I’ve provided links above that enable you to do so easily.

Things you need:

Size 4.25 crochet hook (Size doesn’t really matter but if you use a larger hook, the dishcloth will be larger, and with a smaller hook, it will be smaller)

50 gr (1 3/4 oz) ball of cotton yarn (you’ll have leftovers).

Darning needle (to work in ends)

Ch 34

Dc in 3rd ch from hook and remaining 32 ch. Ch 2 (counts as 1st dc of next row), turn. (33 sts)

Row 2: Dc in each dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 3: 7 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 13 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 8 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 4: 9 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 11 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 10 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 5: 10 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 9 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 11 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 6: 11 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 7 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 12 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 7: 11 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 7 dc in each dc (click that link or scroll down the page to see photos to help you along) st below, ch 1 skip next st, 12 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 8: 9 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 11 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 10 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 9: 8 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 6 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 6 dc, ch 1 skip next st, 9 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 10-11: 8 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 13 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 9 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 12: 8 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 3 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 3 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 9 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 13: 7 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, 1 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, 11 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, 1 dc, ch 1, skip next stitch, 8 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 14: 6 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 9 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 3 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 7 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 15: 5 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 5 dc, *ch 1, skip next st, dc* (repeat from * to * 4 times more) 4 dc, ch 1, skip next st, 6 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 16: 3 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 21 dc, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, 4 dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 17: Dc in each dc. Ch 2, turn.

Row 18: Dc in each dc. Ch 1.


Edging:

With right side facing, Bsc (backwards single crochet) around edge. Bsc between every 2nd dc along the top and bottom edges and around each dc and ch 2 post along the sides. Not sure how to do a backwards single crochet? Watch my how-to video on YouTube here: Crochet Edging for Dishcloths.

Hints and tips:

Use any cotton yarn that you like. Cotton only! Acrylic doesn’t work well for dish washing, and wool will felt and look pretty disgusting after a while. Also, I’ve written the pattern to use less than one ball of the most common cotton yarns available in big box stores (one starts with a β€œW”). These make great gifts that are extremely affordable to make.

When skipping a stitch you may be making a dc in either a ch or a dc. St is used regardless to make the pattern easier to read.

Hold the starting yarn end behind the your work when making the edging. That way you only have the final end to sew in when done.

You can make the edging in a different colour for a bit of extra pizzazz. I don’t because I strongly dislike sewing in ends. An extra colour means extra work 🀨

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Abbreviations:

ch – chain

dc – double crochet

Bsc – backwards single crochet


dc in dc below –

Instead of passing the hook through the top of the stitch, pass the hook through the bottom.



Hook the yarn and pull it through the hole. Pull the yarn up and level with the previous stitches.


Hook your yarn and pull through the first two loops.


Hook the yarn and pull through the last two loops.


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How to Crochet an Afghan…or How to Do Tunisian Crochet

Tunisian Stitch Afghan

This is more than a common granny square…this is what is known as an afghan stitch or tunisian crochet. A few months ago I decided to make another afghan using this method. It’s the second one I’ve made, but this time instead of using my left over yarn I came up with the idea to make it a little more fancy. The house and star patterns are done in a basic cross-stitch and really could be anything you want. What I didn’t realize was how long it was going to take me to finish this project. It was a mammoth undertaking but slowly it’s came together. Since the chances of me making another one like this in the near future is slim to none, I figured I might as well share it with everyone.

To start with, you can make the squares any size you like.Β For my project I’m making them 41 stitches across and 40 rows long.Β I found an actualΒ afghan hookΒ at my local Michael’s store but you can use a regular crochet hook in whatever size you want.Β An afghan hook is very long and has an end on it like the end of a knitting needle.Β If you can’t find one you can use a traditional style hook.Β To keep the stitches from falling off the end of a regular crochet hook, you can wrap a rubber band around the end to help hold them on.Β The size of the hook you use can be whatever you like.Β I’m using a size 5 mm (size 8 US) hook and the next size smaller for doing the edging around each square once it’s was completed.

Tunisian Stitch Afghan

Like my knitted sock pattern, this is a read online only pattern. I never had the gumption to make it available as a download. If you’d like to see that change, please contact me and I’ll see what I can do.


To Do the Afghan Stitch (or How to Tunisian Crochet):

Chain 41

1st Row: In the second chain from the hook, pull up a loop as if you were making a single crochet.

Without completing the previous stitch, pull up a loop through the next chain.

Pull up a loop through the next chain and repeat until you get to the end of the chain.  You will have 41 loops on your crochet hook.

With the 1st loop on the end of your hook, chain 1.

With the loop you just made, pull up a loop through this stitch and the next loop on your hook.

Pull up a loop through the loop you just made and the next loop on your hook.  Repeat this until there is only one loop remaining on your hook.

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2nd Row: There will be a vertical bar formed by each stitch from the last row.  You work the stitches along these bars.

Place your hook under the first bar.  Draw up a loop as if making a single crochet. Do not complete the stitch.

Place your hook under the next bar draw up another loop.  Repeat this with all of the bars. 

The last stitch looks like two chains.  Draw up a loop through the top chain.  You will have 41 loops on your hook.

With the first loop on your hook, chain 1.

Draw a loop through the loop you just made and the next loop on your hook.  Repeat until there is only one loop remaining on your hook.

Repeat row 2 for each subsequent row. 

You can make the squares as long as you want.  For my project I’m making 40 rows.

To finish:

There will be one loop on your hook.  Place your hook under the vertical bar.  Draw up a loop but this time, complete the single crochet. Repeat with all the bars.  Once again the last stitch looks like 2 chains.  Draw up a loop through the top chain and complete the single crochet. Finish off.

When your square is completed they tend to roll up. A quick ironing will help the fibers relax and lie flat. Be sure to read the care instructions that came with your yarn. Some may have specific recommendations on temperature settings or blocking.

To create the edging on your pieces, you can do whatever you like. You may want to surround it with a combination of rows like double crochet and single crochet, or you may want single crochet with the following rows in the back stitch of previous rows. It really doesn’t matter and is your personal preference. Just be sure that your work lies flat. You may need to use a smaller crochet hook than the one you used to make the squares to create a flat edge or decrease where necessary.

My project is 2 rows of double crochet and one row of single crochet on the 2 side edges. I’m then stitching the squares together along these edges making a long strip. I then do 2 rows of double crochet and one row of single crochet along the tops and bottoms of these strips. Then, I’m sewing the strips together and working in the ends. 

For a more interesting effect you can try using two colours of yarn and alternate the colours for each row. The yarn will naturally keep to the back when you switch between colours. You can also try using a very fine yarn or fingering with a regular worsted weight yarn. Work them together as if they are one strand.

For myself, I think that this will be my first and last afghan like this. I’ve been considering maybe making pillows with this stitch and doing more elaborate cross-stitch decorations on them. I’ve also considered wall hangings to be more like art pieces, but I always have a list as long as my arm of to-do projects in the works. 

I hope you found this helpful or at the very least inspiring. If you are enjoying the free patterns and how-to pics, then please share my work! Those handy little icons along the side or bottom of the page let you do it easily and helps me tremendously. If you’d like more information on how you can keep things free, learn how you can Help Support My Work.

If you need more help than what I’ve given here, by all means feel free to contact me here.  

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How to Crochet Jewelry – Quick Crochet Bracelet

If you’ve crocheted before and are familiar with most of the stitches, this will be a snap for you to make. If you’re new, it may push you a bit, but is still totally doable. It’s extremely repetitive and once you catch on, the repeated sections will be second nature to you.

I’ve written instructions to make the bracelet in one colour (easiest if you’re new to crocheting) and separate instructions for the two-tone version. Only Round 2 is a bit different, but I figured it would be easier to have it written out in full for both versions instead of having to scroll back to look. God bless copy and paste! Keep scrolling down the page to read the two-tone instructions.

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If you’re making the single colour bracelet, selecting a variegated thread could add some interesting variations to the look of the bracelet. Sorry I never made a one colour one though. I’m rather fond of two colour…

Not a fan of reading online? You can always download the pattern fro a small fee/donation from my website – Quick and EasyΒ Crochet Bracelet. Some things never change πŸ˜€

But let’s get to the pattern.

2 tone purple bracelet

Things you need:

1 or 2 balls of crochet cotton thread

Size 10 (1.3 mm) crochet hook

A pretty button ( approximately 1/2” or 1.5 cm diameter)

Gauge:  

It’s not really important for this project as there isn’t a specific size needed. This pattern can be made as long as you like and you can easily adjust the length to what you want when you’re making it. Each loop adds approximately 25/32″ or 2 cm. It depends how tightly you crochet. Generally speaking, I make my bracelets approximately 7 inches (17.5 cm) in length. I make 10 loops total for this pattern but you can add or make less as you see fit.

Another point to remember, your final product will stretch a bit longer as the stitches relax over time or if you press it with an iron.

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Single Colour Bracelet  

(keep scrolling if you want the 2 colour version)

Starting loop:

Chain 7. Tr-trc (triple treble crochet – wrap the thread 6 time around the hook) in 7th  chain from hook.

Additional loops:

Chain 8. Tr-trc in 7th chain from hook. Repeat 8 more times for 10 loops total. You can add more or make less loops depending on the length you want.

Round 1:  Ch1. *12 sc in loop just formed. Sl st in ch between loops.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Work 24 sc in last loop. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. 12 sc in last loop. Join with sl st to first sc.

Round 2:  *2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.* Repeat from * to * 2  more  times. Ch 6.  In the next loop after sl st in space between loops, skip next 3 sts and starting in the 4th  st,  🐸  5 sc, ch 6.  🐸ᅠRepeat from  πŸΈοΎ to  πŸΈοΎ down the length of the bracelet. In last loop starting after the sl st between loops, skip first 3 sts and starting in the 4th st  β›„  2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.β›„  Repeat from  β›„  to  β›„  5  more  times. Ch 6. Repeat from  πŸΈοΎ to  πŸΈοΎ down the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops and starting in the 4th st, repeat from * to * 3 times total. Join with sl st  in the back loop  of the first sc of the round.

Quick crochet Bracelet

Round 3:  Sc in the back loop of every sc of previous round. (Sc, hd, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc) in every ch 6 space. Join with sl st to first sc of the round.

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite of either loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!


Two-Tone Bracelet

Starting loop:

Chain 7. Tr-trc (triple treble crochet – wrap the thread 6 time around the hook) in 7th  chain from hook.

Additional loops:

Chain 8. Tr-trc in 7thchain from hook. Repeat 8 more times for 10 loops total. You can add more or make less loops depending on the length you want.

Round 1:  Ch1. *12 sc in loop just formed. Sl st in ch between loops.* Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. Work 24 sc in last loop. Repeat from * to * down the length of the bracelet. 12 sc in last loop. Join with sl st to first sc. Break thread.

Round 2:In any loop other than a loop on the end, and starting after the sl st between loops, skip the first 3 sts join the thread in the 4th  st, ch 1 (counts as first sc), 4  sc, ch 6.  πŸοΎ 5 sc, ch 6.🐝ᅠRepeat from  πŸοΎ to  πŸ down the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops, skip first 3 sts and starting in the 4th st  πŸΉοΎ 2 sc. Work 2 sc in next st.  πŸΉοΎ Repeat from  πŸΉοΎ to  πŸΉοΎ 5  more  times. Ch 6. Repeat from  πŸοΎ to  πŸοΎ down the length of the bracelet. In last loop after the sl st between loops, and starting in the 4th st, repeat from 🐹ᅠto  πŸΉοΎ 6 times total. Ch 6. Join with sl st  in the back loop  of the first sc of the round.

Quick crochet Bracelet

Round 3:  Sc in the back loop of every sc of previous round. (Sc, hdc, dc, trc, dc, hdc, sc) in every ch 6 space. Join with sl st to first sc of the round.

Break thread.

Sew button to the end opposite of either loop.

Work in thread ends.

Wear, give away or sell with pride!

Hints and Tips:

It is very easy to either miss a chain, chain the wrong number, or sc the wrong number by accident in Round 1. This will throw off the counts for Round 2 and you may end up with too many or not enough sc. Don’t panic! Round 3 is very forgiving and will hide all. As long as your skipped stitches on either side of the 5 sc clusters are the same, you won’t really be able to tell; even if you only make 4 stitches or make it 6 sc. Make it work with what you have. Another fix, you can either sc stitches together if too many or sc 2 stitches in one stitch if you don’t have enough. FYI making things work like this, works great for all projects. Many times it can be hidden in a seam or the back of the work πŸ˜‰

No matter what, don’t stretch out the necklace or bracelet before you are completely finished crocheting the entire piece! If you do, it won’t lay flat when you are done.

To save work of sewing in ends, work in the ends of the threads as you are making your project. Hold the thread behind your work and catch it as you make the next 4-5 stitches.

Be sure you don’t twist your loops when adding the sc’s in Round 1. The chains should be on the  BOTTOM  of the loop and the tr-trc on the  TOP.

A simple rule to follow for this very repetitive pattern, after the 5 sc clusters and the large numbers of sc’s made on the end loops, always remember to ch 6. Simply put, every time you run across the sl st between the loops, ch 6.

And the best tip of all, if you like this pattern and would like to see more in the future, Help Support My Work!


Abbreviations:

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

hdc – half double crochet

trc – treble (or triple) crochet

tr-trc – triple treble crochet (wrap the thread around the hook 6 times)

ch – chain

sl st – slip stitch

st – stitch

sts – stitches

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How to Knit Socks & Graft a Toe – With Photos

Hand Knitted Socks - Free Pattern

Socks are one of those things that you can make as individual as you are. Made in the round on 4 double pointed needles, it may seem intimidating at first, but really it’s not. And with a little practise you’ll get just as hooked as me.

If you are just getting started one standard ball of yarn, like the kind you can get at Walmart, should be enough to make a pair of ankle socks as pictured above. Choose an acrylic yarn or a blended worsted weight. You can use wool, but cleaning them may be a hassle (shrinkage) and cotton yarn doesn’t stretch enough to make a comfortable pair of socks. It also gets up your nose when working with it. Just want full disclosure here πŸ˜‰


To cast on, I cast all the stitches on one needle, then take the first 1/3 of the stitches and slip them onto a free needle, then take the last 1/3 of the stitches and put those on another needle, leaving the remaining 1/3 on the original needle.This method helps me to not twists my stitches. I then start to knit in the round. 

Included with this pattern are photos of every step showing how to graft the toe, or sewing the toe stitches together. Not only does this technique work for socks, but it is the same procedure for grafting the stitches for mittens. If sone correctly, it makes for a nearly perfect seam. Keep scrolling down the page to see the instructions and pics. 

This pattern is available as a read online only. No download is available. Sorry. There are so many sock patterns already, I’m sure a quick search will find one you can download. 

A quick tip about working with double pointed needles (DPN). I find that using wood or bamboo a bit better than working with the metal needles. Sometimes, when working with the metal needles, you’ll find that you get a line that runs the length of your sock where you start working on a new needle. For some reason, and for me, using bamboo prevents this. 

Also, check your tension first! I use a size Size 7 needle (Size 4.5 if your Canadian) with worsted weight yarn and with the tension of:


If you are loving the free patterns, please consider making a small donation to Help Support My Work! If you are unable to do so, I totally understand. Sharing this and other patterns you like with others on your social media or through email, helps me too. I’ve provided handy links above to help you do just that πŸ˜„

Knitted Socks Pattern
Knitted Socks Pattern

10 stitches = 2 inches

14 rows = 2 inches

Depending on how tight you knit you may need larger or smaller needles. If you’ve knitted before you probably have a good idea of what needles you need.

Things You Need:

Abbreviations:

K = Knit

P = Purl

K2tog = Knit 2 stitches together

P2tog = Purl 2 stitches together

Cast on 36 stitches loosely.

There needs to be some stretch to be able to get them on.

Rounds 1-15: K2 P2

Rounds 16-17: Knit

Heel flap:

Slip last 9 stitches from round 17 to free needle, knit next 9 stitches from next needle onto needle with the 9 slipped stitches from round 17. You will have four needles and will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

Transfer the three stitches on the two needles onto the back needle. Split these 18 stitches between two needles. It will look like this:

How to knit socks - free knitting pattern

You will work these split 18 stitches later to form the top of the foot.

Turn your work. You are now creating the heel flap from the slipped stitches and will work in rows along the 18 stitches that are on the single needle.

With the wrong side (Purl side) facing you. Purl the row. Turn.

With the right side (Knit side) facing you. Knit the row. Turn.

Repeat stocking knit (Purl one row, Knit one row) until the flap measure approximately 2 1/2 inches ending with a Purl row. Turn.

With right side (Knit side) facing you K8 stitches, K2 tog, K8. Turn. (17 stitches on the needle)

Next row: P8, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K1, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P2 , P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K3, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P4, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K5, K2 tog, K1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: P6, P2 tog, P1. Leave remaining stitches unworked. Turn.

Next row: K7, K2 tog, K1.

You will now start knitting around.

Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form the gusset. Transfer the 18 held stitches to one needle. Knit the 18 held stitches. Pick up 10 stitches along heel flap to form gusset.